Imac to Sharp aqeous

Ok first off yes i did check the forums and could find an accurate answer.
here is the issue:
Intel imac to sharp aqueous plasma( late 2007 early 2008 model)
from imac mini dvi to HDMI adapter then strait to HDMI input on tv.
we are trying to run front row as it is a simple interface, when selecting movie it loads but there is no video on tv and computer but there is audio, however when movie is opened in plain quicktime it plays fine on both tv and computer.
common things i have read are to turn off overscan and reset pram
what else am I missing any help would be great

One thing to note is that when you run Front Row, the movie plays on the screen that has the menu bar. So if your HDTV is the secondary screen and your iMac's screen is primary (it has the menu bar and dock), the movie will not play on your HDTV using Front Row.
On most video playback apps, you can pick the display to use for full screen by either setting it in preferences, or by simply putting the window with the video on that screen and giving the full-screen command. You can't do that with Front Row (at least as far as I know).
When you run Front Row, do you see the Front Row interface screen? If so, which display has that screen (before you start playing any movie).
Have you tried going to System Preferences Displays pane Arrangement tab and moving the menu bar from one display to the other? Try using Front Row. If that works as expected now, move the menu bar back (as before) and try using Front Row again.

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HT4241 Does dvi to HDMI adapter works on mid 2007 iMac? Some how my iMac detect the sharp tv but the tv screen is black.

Does dvi to HDMI adapter works on mid 2007 iMac? Some how my iMac detect the sharp tv but the tv screen is black.

you need mini dvi to hdmi cable
http://store.apple.com/us/product/M9321G/B/apple-mini-dvi-to-dvi-adapter?fnode=5 1
and
http://store.apple.com/us/product/HA835ZM/A/belkin-hdmi-to-dvi-d-cable-2-m66-ft? fnode=51

Sharpie vs. iMac

And the sharpie won....leaving a 1-2 inch black streak across the center of my 24" iMac screen.
The details of how this happened are too painful to relate....
But does anyone have any grand ideas about removing this from the screen without damaging the screen? Are there any safe cleaners out there strong enough to take down sharpie?
thanks

I regularly use 70% isopropyl alcohol swabs and a soft cloth to clean my 24" aluminum iMac screen. It works well and is safe for the screen's surface. I just did a test where I put a couple of heavy one inch Sharpie pen marks (fine point) on a drinking glass. I used a 70% isopropyl swab on it. The marks came off cleanly and quickly--and the glass is unaffected. Whether you want to try this on your computer screen is another matter.
If you don't care to try 70% isopropyl alcohol, call Apple and find out what they recommend. If you don't have Apple Care, you may have to pay for the call. But if they have answers for you, whatever they charge would be a lot less than replacing your screen. It's possible that they could tell you to use 70% isopropyl alcohol swabs.
Whatever you do, stay away from toothpaste to clean computer screens. I was a dentist and although some are less abrasive than others, they all contain some abrasives. That's what makes them effective. Tom's of Maine toothpaste is probably the least abrasive of them all but even they say it contains "no HARSH abrasives". Toothpaste may have other uses than cleaning your teeth but using it on computer screens is definitely not one of them. And stay away from auto polishes, too, no matter how mild they may seem.

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I just got my first imac and I've been learing the ins and outs. One thing that bothers me though is that when I'm visiting many web pages I find that images, thumbnails, movie clips, etc. are rendered with so much detail they tend to look distorted. I've been searching for a way to dial down the sharpness overall and I can't seem to make it happen. All I've been able to find are the display settings which jump from 1440x900 (which I'm using now) to 1152x720 (which is muddy and ugly). I enjoy the sharpness and clarity of my monitor when it comes to viewing text but for film clips and jpegs I prefer a softer focus.
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Could adjusting the brightness and other settings, perhaps making a
custom profile in displays, changing contrast, etc could help.
The only other mention of displays being too bright and/or clear was
in reference to the new 24" iMac Intel® computer, and some posters
in a forum stated ideas, here: Decrease Brightness Further?
On my older iMacG4 1.25GHz 17" USB 2.0 I chose to adjust down the
brightness (keyboard buttons F14 - F15) to save the display backlight
from premature failure; even while having AppleCare coverage in effect.
To run an LCD or some VGAs too bright can be hard on your eyes when
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Anyone get Sharp AL-1655cs MFP working with the IMac

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you say no application
the way I normally scan is that I go into system preferences
click print & scan
there on the lidt of pritners he show my samsung all in one laser pritner thingy
then I click on the Scan in the right tabcontrol click open Scanner
that bring up what I assume to be a samsung gui dialog where I can preview and set dpi and the likes
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I am trying to use my TV as a second monitor for my newish iMac. I used to do the same thing with my macbook (2006) with a mini-dvi to HDMI adapter. The signal then was crisp and typical of 1080p. I recently tried two different mini-displayport to hdmi adapters to output my monitor from the thunderbolt port of the iMac. The first was a cheap one and the second was a better one. Each time, the TV says the signal is 1080p, but the image is blurry, although sound does work.
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Hello and welcome back to Mac
If you select the driver file in Downloads and perform a Get Info (Command I or File > Get Info), the Get Info will show you under the heading of Name & Extension what format the file is. Note that you may need to click the little triangle next to Name & Extension to expand the view.
With OS X 10.5 and 10.6, there is a built in function to create a compressed zip file. If this is the extension of the driver, simply double click to decompress the download. It will automatically create a folder for the driver in the same Downloads folder. If the file format is something other than zip, you may need Stuffit or something similar to unpack the file. Please reply with the extension name.
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I have a mid 2007 iMac model, and my PC laptop recently died- I am debating right now as to whether I should buy the iMac 2013 since it was recently updated or just wait for the MacBook Pro update said to be released sometime this month. I'm in need of a new computer for sure and can last for a bit on my iMac (it's staring to get really slow). I personally would want a MacBook Pro so I could bring it to school/classes but also going to partition it play some PC Games (they're not that graphic hungry, just TERA, MMO's).
I was considering to get the 2013 iMac now and wait until next year for the rumored Sharp IGZO MacBook Pro coming out early 2014 sometime during the summer before next school semester starts. That being said, I don't want to risk the 2014 pro not releasing until AFTER the school semester.
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I just want to get the most out of my money as well as the reassurance that it would be energy efficient, durable to last for the rest of my college years
So how long is your college course?
The latest MacBook Pros have just been released. No need to wait any longer!

Output quicktime movie choppy and less sharp than original

Goodmorning!
I am planning to make a stand alone movie of my footage that I can keep and watch on my iMac. My sequence was made on FCP 7 on 1920 x 1080 with Prores 422 codec.
I did a few tests with exporting to quicktime movie (standard settings), because I have read several times that converting this way results in more or less the same quality. When I compare the videoquality of the Quicktime movie with playing the footage on the timeline fullscreen (+view-external video-all frames+), I am very disappointed. Not only is the sharpness of the quicktime movie less than the original, the movie plays very choppy (not fluently at all) .
My question is: is that result to be expected? May I compare a quicktime movie with the original as described before?
Or maybe I should export the sequence in a more sophisticated way?
The quicktime outcome was about 30 seconds and resulted in a file of about 500 MB. My wish is that the size of the file will not be bigger.
I hope that you can help me. Thanks in advance.

Tom,
Three times "correct" to your three questions.
Opened the exported file in the QuickTime player, Movie Inspector said:
Structure: Apple ProRess 422 , 1920 x1080 (1888 x 1062) millions, 16-bit integer (little indian) Stereo 48000 khz
Bps: 25
Size: 561,7 MB
Speed: 118,53 Mbit/s
Current size: 1882 x 1058 pixels
If I run the sequence through JED deinterlacer, the movie gets a better flow. Of course the sharpness deminish a bit too.
I hope that you can help me.
Would export in H.264 be a better option?
Maybe the 25 Bps is too high? My Panasonic SD60 produces only 17 mb Mbps.

Mixing RAM Speeds In iMac G4 1GHz 17" Flat-Panel?

I'm just checking here.
I have an iMac G4 1GHz 17" Flat-Panel, Model M8935LL/A (USB 1.1 version) that currently has the standard 256MB PC2100 (266 MHz) RAM module installed in the factory slot, and a 512MB PC2700 (333 MHz) RAM module installed in the bottom (user-accessible) slot. I bought the machine direct from Apple, so despite the "official" spec (which calls for PC2100 RAM in both slots), it's obvious that Apple knows PC2700 RAM will work in that machine. My understanding is that the faster PC2700 RAM simply downclocks to accommodate the lower 266 MHz bus speed of the M8935LL/A. As I understand the DDR SDRAM spec, any DDR SDRAM (PC1600 through PC3200) module will simply overclock or underclock to accommodate the host bus speed...but feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken on that point.
I'm fixing to upgrade the hard drive to a larger capacity model. I've done it before, so I know it's no picnic. Since I have to go past the factory RAM slot anyway to change the hard drive, I figure I might as well upgrade the internal RAM to the full 1GB limit. (Yes...I know Apple says you can't exceed 512MB in either slot, so please—no remonstrances about sticking to Apple's spec. The spec is wrong.)
Obviously, it's possible to mix the two RAM speeds between the two slots, since Apple shipped the computer that way. Here are my questions:
• Is there any downside to going the other way when I upgrade the RAM—that is, putting a 1GB PC2700 (184-pin) module in the factory slot, and a 1GB PC2100 (200-pin) module in the user slot? The reason I ask is because my preferred supplier (OWC) can't supply me with both modules in the same speed.
• Is there any performance advantage in both modules being the same speed—that is, both PC2100 or both PC2700? If not, I'll just buy the one of each speed that OWC has available.
Thanks!

jjw wrote:
So, you know have 2Gb available in your flat screen imac?
Yes indeed—2GB confirmed as available by Apple System Profiler. Both modules are PC2700. Everything is working fine.
I guess I can understand why Apple discourages users from replacing the 184-pin "factory slot" module. There's not a whole lot of slack in the motherboard connector cables, so it's best to disconnect them in order to get the bottom section to lie flat on the workbench. I suppose some folks might be hesitant about disconnecting things, but it's really quite simple, and involves only three connectors. After having changed the hard drive a few years ago, replacing the RAM was a piece of cake by comparison.
A word of caution to anyone who's going to attempt it, though. There are TWO heat sink interfaces between the bottom section (where the motherboard is mounted) and the top dome. Those heat sink surfaces are coated with thermal paste at the factory, but the compound dries out over time, becoming a rubbery membrane between the heat sink surfaces. Once you separate the top and bottom sections, the membrane rips apart, and the firm connection between the heat sink surfaces is permanently gone. It's a bad idea to simply put them back together after you change the RAM module; you won't get a good thermal connection.
The solution is to scrape all of the old rubbery compound off all four surfaces (two on the bottom and two on the top section). I did it with a piece of PVC, but you can use anything with a sharp edge that won't scratch the metal surface—even your fingernails will work, unless the old compound has dried out to the point where it's hard. After you scrape the old gunk off, apply new thermal paste to all four surfaces.
The other maintenance item you can perform while you're in there is cleaning out all the dust, which accumulates in vast quantities and interferes with cooling. I vacuumed it out with a plastic crevice tool, being careful NOT to touch any of the components with the tool. Vacuuming can build up a static charge on the tool, especially in dry environments, and high static voltages aren't friendly to microprocessors. I used a securely grounded anti-static wrist strap throughout the entire operation, and even wrapped it around the vacuum tool.
Good luck!

My imac took some damage while being repair at the Apple Store

I figured I'd post here since I'm not exactly sure where this would fall under.
Two days ago my imac started having Hard Drive problems. After doing everything I could possibly do to recover what I could (which wasn't much) I took it in to the Apple Store to Diagnosed and Fix. The Mac Genius came to the same conclusion as I about the state of the Hard Drive and was even able to help me get more stuff off of it. This morning I went back to pick it up and had a mac genius boot it up and check it out. Functionally everything is working great with the imac now. It has a new HD and the machine as a whole seems to be running faster and cooler now BUT...
On the aluminum case on the top left-hand side are three sharp serrated notches in the casing. It almost looks like someone stabbed the top of the case with a screw driver or something similar. I know for a fact they weren't there before because at least once a day I run my hand across the outer edge of the case to sweep up any dust that might be building out around the memory ports, disc drive bay and above the isight (it's more of a habit then anything).
I'm just not sure what to do about it. Looking at the repair report papers they listed the condition of my imac as "normal wear and tear" even though it was in fact in pristine condition (I'm a bit OCD where it concerns my computers). So if I were to take it back, it might be their word against mine.
I'm just so frustrated at this point. It's like taking your car in to have an alternator changed and then getting your car back in perfect running order only to find that they dented it in three places. Any advice on the matter would be greatly appreciated

Living in New York I've visited all three now actually four stores many times and must say my experience has always been a positive one. I find most of the people knowledgeable and if not theres usually someone there that knows the answer to your problem. I had a problem with a skipping iPhone and I went to the store multiple times and what was a simple solution was overlooked and wrongly diagnosed by numerous people. That happens with many complex products. Luckily I figured it myself but then again I might know more then most at the store.
As for a damaged computer during repair. I guess anything can happen once something leaves your premises. I would for one always ask to boot up any machine I've had in for repair before I lug it home and look over the machine's surface for damage. The stores are very bright and you should be able to easily see any damage. Hope Apple does the right thing which they usually do. Recommend the manager route if not.

New 27 iMAC keeps crashing iMovie and freezing videos on YouTube & Quicktime

We just got a new Sept 2013 iMac three days ago, purchased refurbished from the Apple Store online. The whole point of the purchase was to be able to use iMovie to thoroughly edit videos for our YouTube channel, use garage band, lots of internet surfing and video watching etc. We spent the extra dollars to get what we thought was the most improved version of the iMac with all the souped up specs in order to avoid any hassle and headaches from a lack of performance. Here's what we have:
3.4GHz quad-core Intel Core i7
27-inch (diagonal) LED-backlit display with IPS technology; 2560-by-1440 resolution
8GB (two 4GB) of 1600MHz DDR3 SDRAM
1TB hard drive (We have only used 80 GBs of it so far, so plenty of space left)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 775M graphics processor with 2GB of GDDR5 memory
720p Camera & Mic
OS X 10.9
We're feeling a bit duped now as this seems to have turned out to just be a big expensive piece of junk. Here are our problems:
- Firstly, thank goodness that we had our own Logitech HD camera/mic left over from our PC because the "HD camera" built in to the iMac is worse in quality than my old blackberry curve. Grainy, lack luster, mic has sharp and distant sound, really really bad and false advertisement.
- In the middle of using iMovie (iMac came preinstalled with the newest one, i think its 10?), it will stop responding properly or will crash and close, we wont even have any other programs running.
- When opening Quicktime to record a new video, in the middle of a recording or while the recording window is idle, it will start glitching - flashing between live footage and a freeze frame repeatedly. The only way to stop it is to quit out Quicktime and open again and try to record quickly, or in some cases we have to completely restart the iMac, which then still randomly in the middle of a recording or idle window it will continue to flash and glitch. (You can view an example here in the last minute of one of our videos, we tried to make it work and kept the take since we were doing our outro music dance, but it totally ***** when this happens randomly during our content portion and we have to redo recording. http://youtu.be/MAJzaEShJGw?t=4m34s )
- When watching YouTube videos, the computer takes a while to respond to a command, like if we click on a certain part of the video, it will not load it until we press the pause/play button a few times and wait. Also at the beginning of a video it will start glitching and freezing again, similar to how we explained above in the quicktime, but faster.
If you are familiar with what could be the problem or have any advice, PLEASE HELP, we are concerned that after dropping so much money within just 3 days of use, this iMac is not performing flawlessly in the areas that we most needed and want to know if these issues are common and fixable or if its a defect that would require we send this thing back immediately. We did not get apple care and would hate to have wasted money that we really dont have on a glitchy crashing huge piece of junk.
Want to mention a few other pros and cons unrelated to our issues, for those who may be considering buying one too:
PROS:
- The Magic mouse is really great, particularly because of the scrolling and zooming gestures. (Though sometimes i accidentaly swipe in a browser and go back to a previous page losing any information that was input on the page i was originally on, for example, i had to retype this whole apple imac inquiry because i swiped backwards by mistake and the whole form cleared! annoying, wish the horizontal swipe navigated between tabs instead of going through the page view history.)
- When the imovie is not crashing, after watching some tutorials and making a few vids, its a really greatly improved program from the '09 version we used to use. I import and edit videos much faster now, and footage does not freeze or take time to load while im dragging and dropping, it is immediately responsive.
- Love using the Talk to text function (like Siri) by pressing "fn" twice. Use this to write long emails and papers with ease. Would like to see a "Speak" read back option that allows for text to be selected and read back (like Siri on iPad)
CONS:
- The text is SO small everywhere and there is no option to exactly set text size across the whole system, only option given is to set a different resolution which lessens the quality of the screen with pixelation, and some programs give you the option to set custom sized text in their individual preferences.
- Sometimes in both iMovie & Garageband, simple automated functionality will stop working, for example in iMove, when certain screens or images are dragged and dropped to the work area by the activity bar (i dont know what else to call it, the line that rolls across during playback or stays put when pressing spacebar) usually, that screen or image will click into place to align with the activity bar and will highlight the bar yellow to further communicate that alignment before you drop it, but after extended use in a session, that snapping into alignment when adding items stops working. Or sometimes you can drag and drop the ends of a title screen to adjust/trim the clip, but after extended time that too stops responding and does not let the cursor turn into that arrow that allows you to trim or extend, until after many frustrated clicks or a quit and restart.
- When sharing/exporting a video from iMovie, i would recommend unchecking the add to theatre option because it significantly extends the amount of time needed to complete the action and i found out the theatre is just like a video stream of your movies to be shared on icloud for easy access from your other devices (similar to the icloud photostream connected to iPhoto). It takes the time to make the video readily availabe in various sizes on the Mac server for easy access, which means it takes forever for your video to be exported to where you actually want it. This is not something we need and is not worth the wait time. (For example, last ime we left the theatre box checked, the progress status of the video was estimated to be completed in 351 minutes, and then 20 minutes later that somehow inclreased to 385 minutes, then duddenly it was done, so i think this add to theatre option also cause the progress status updates to go berzerk.)

Given the maximum RAM that model can use is 32GB, and the earlier release of that 27" mid-2013 iMac is nearly the same in most regards, you may note the listing of this slightly older iMac 27" is here in an Apple support document...
•iMac: How to remove or install memory:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1423
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1423#1
The images of where the RAM chips are located, behind a metal plate, should be similar in your iMac and the mid-2013 iMac 27" shown in images on that page. Note there are several models discussed.
You could take the computer to a certified Apple service facility (retail store, or specialist reseller) and pay them to do this, and buy the RAM from them, and you will pay for this at a retail level. If they do it, you'd want to be assured the computer did all the things you sought to cure by upgrading RAM, correctly without fault. Like run tests and stuff.... Or there's no reason to not go ahead (after confirming from Apple) that you could buy quality RAM and do this job yourself, citing the Apple page link I'd posted above.
Contact Apple Support:
http://www.apple.com/support/contact/
You'd have to obtain the correct RAM (as indicated in my earlier post, citing MacTracker) of suitable quality for use in a Macintosh computer, and the recommendation for a DIY is to get the kit from 'Other World Computing' OWC online at their site. You can talk to knowledgable sales staff at OWC about what you have and what you need, and to help they may ask for the product serial number.
This is OWC and they have the spec RAM required for your iMac 27" model; double-check info:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/iMac/2012_27/DDR3L
Since yours is an Apple Refurbished model it will have a different number series. Unlike those in a retail store, because Apple does that to tell what ones they refurbished; refurbs I bought online were like that.
With questions during the first three months, you can get 'support' under the initial 90-day span of ownership of the new (and certified) Apple refurbs bought online; the other part of that is 'service' for 1 year. Call a nearest retail Apple Store, to set a genius appointment; or go online, and start the process of reporting your issue, while you still have some kind of warranty on the device. They can diagnose the issues you cite and tell you if you can upgrade the RAM (as you likely can) then you can buy and install the RAM yourself and probably pay less than 1/2 the retail rate, if you get some from OWC. A diagnosis is free if the Genius looks into it, but you'd need to set an appointment & lug the iMac to their store; protected from weather/shock.
If you want to extend the complementary service to three years (less the included 90-days) and add two years of AppleCare service, that is an affordable option of about $170. For a total of three years coverage.
{If you had a 21.5-inch iMac the RAM would require a service department visit where they use a different method to install the RAM upgrade. Those are built differently than the 27-inch iMac.}
There is a bit of detailed important information in the Apple link on how to upgrade the iMac RAM. There is a certain amount of RAM installed already and these chips would likely be removed if you get matching sets of new RAM to upgrade the capacity. And no matter what some say, there is a reason why they can be upgraded with more. Even with Mavericks OS X 10.9.x and its 'memory compression' etc, it would gladly accept all the RAM upgrade chips it could swallow. (Behind metal screen, mid-bottom iMac 27")
You may need to consider questions about applications that use system resources separate from those about whatever issues your iMac seems to exhibit. There may be some other cause of the video and iMovie symptoms, but more RAM won't hurt given the beast you bought can use 32GB and it has 8.
And if it seems too much to handle, you have 14 days from date of
purchase to take it back. Contact them ahead of then, if you do.
Hopefully this helps.
Good luck & happy computing!

Imac to Sharp aqeous

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