IMAC Using MAC OS and WindowsVista - Removal

I partitioned my hard drive and created a 32gb partition for Windows Vista. I went ahead and installed Vista and switched back and forth by booting since Boot Camp didn't show up on the Vista toolbar. I decided to start using VMWare Fusion, installed it and got it working with Vista, however, little problems started cropping up and I decided to remove Fusion and Vista and start over. I managed to remove Vista, HOWEVER, whenever I boot now if I don't press the ALT Key (Windows Keyboard), holding it down, the computer will attempt to boot back into Windows but gives me the no boot disk present error and sits there. I checked the partitions and they seem to be correct, entire partition to MAC OS. I need to fix this problem and need some help. I can work on a PC with my eyes closed but I only recently switched to MAC. I would like to solve this problem without having to reformat or repartition the whole drive, thus wiping out my data and third party programs I've purchased. Should I purchase a disk utility program? Thanks.

I've done that several times. The issue is I believe in the bootstrap, the area of the harddrive that tells is what OS's are installed and which one to boot up in. Since this appears to be too techinical for the folks here to understand, I suppose I'll just reinstall Vista AFTER installing Fusion this time. It will overwrite the bootstrap hopefully. I know in Windows/DOS, you can actually go in and edit the boot process on the hard disk to add or remove operating systems manually. Maybe there's a Linux command that will do the same thing here.

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Using Mac, how do I remove the hiss (noise floor)?

Using Mac, how do I remove the hiss (noise floor)?

Hi! Well, at the most simple, Audition has a noise reduction effect...try Effects/Noise Reduction/Restoration/Noise Reduction (Process). Highlight a short section of your clip featuring just noise, not any sounds you want to keep. Turn the amount of NR down on the sliders to, say, 20% and the Reduction to, say, 10dB, hit "Select Entire File" and Okay it. If the noise is bad, you're best off to do several passes at low processing settings. Turn up the FFT size (on the Advanced menu) and grab a new noise sample between each process. FYI, the reason for doing it 3 or 4 times with small increments is that it results in a lot fewer unpleasant artefacts.
However, as others have said, use of Noise Reduction should be a last ditch option, not a normal part of the process. I have 3 different M Audio interfaces now and none give me enough noise to worry about. As a first guess from your description I wonder if it's your microphone that's noisy and, if so, no amount of playing is likely to fix it...the noise goes up and down along with the programme material as you adjust the levels.
So...a bit more info and maybe we can make some suggestions for you.

Hi, I've got an imac using mac os x version10.4.11, does anyone know of any printers that are compatible with this operating system version?

Hi, I've got an imac using mac os x version10.4.11, does anyone know of any printers that are compatible with this operating system version?

Yesterday I set up a Canon IP3600 to work on a PowerBook G4 running OS 10.4.11. It is a print-only unit. I got the 10.4 drivers off the Canon website before connecting the printer. Many Brother printers still have support for older Mac OS versions.
If you need a multi-function device, it is gettng very hard to find any that support PowerPC Macs (pre-2006) of OSX versions older then 10.6 any more.
As you posted in the PowerPC iMac forum I assume you have one. However, there are some Intel Macs (2006 and newer) still running 10.4. Check "About this Mac" under your Apple menu: if it says you have an Intel processor, you have many more doors open.

Just bought a used mac pro and it has 4 video cards?

Hi all, I just bought a used mac pro and it has 4 Geforce 7300 GT video cards in it. Why would it have 4? Is it just to display on 8 monitors, or can OSX use the power of each card? Is there anything I can do to take advantage of these extra cards? sell them?!

No, OS X cannot combine the four cards. All they are good for is to connect 8 monitors. If you don't plan to do that then you're better off removing three of them (only the upper three.) This will save energy - roughly 50-75 watts per card - and the computer will be cooler.

Please help! We got a used Mac Mini and we don't have the former owner's password, so we can't install anything like flash player. Does anyone know how to get around this?

Please help! We got a used Mac Mini and we don't have the former owner's password, so we can't install anything like flash player. Does anyone know how to get around this? I don't know how to wipe the hard drive, and the support online doesn't seem to work.

As posted previously:
Reinstall OS X without erasing the drive
Do the following:
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
If installing Leopard the process is similar in some respects. If you wish to begin anew then after selecting the target disk click on the Options button and select the Erase and Install option then click on the OK button. To install over an existing system do the following:
How to Perform an Archive and Install
An Archive and Install will NOT erase your hard drive, but you must have sufficient free space for a second OS X installation which could be from 3-9 GBs depending upon the version of OS X and selected installation options. The free space requirement is over and above normal free space requirements which should be at least 6-10 GBs. Read all the linked references carefully before proceeding.
1. Be sure to use Disk Utility first to repair the disk before performing the Archive and Install.
Repairing the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger, Leopard or Snow Leopard.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer. Now restart normally.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Do not proceed with an Archive and Install if DU reports errors it cannot fix. In that case use Disk Warrior and/or TechTool Pro to repair the hard drive. If neither can repair the drive, then you will have to erase the drive and reinstall from scratch.
3. Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When you reach the screen to select a destination drive click once on the destination drive then click on the Option button. Select the Archive and Install option. You have an option to preserve users and network preferences. Only select this option if you are sure you have no corrupted files in your user accounts. Otherwise leave this option unchecked. Click on the OK button and continue with the OS X Installation.
4. Upon completion of the Archive and Install you will have a Previous System Folder in the root directory. You should retain the PSF until you are sure you do not need to manually transfer any items from the PSF to your newly installed system.
5. After moving any items you want to keep from the PSF you should delete it. You can back it up if you prefer, but you must delete it from the hard drive.
6. You can now download a Combo Updater directly from Apple's download site to update your new system to the desired version as well as install any security or other updates. You can also do this using Software Update.

Bought a used Mac Mini and can't get past security password Seller refuses to answer emails. is there a keyboard command to take it back to factory settings or do I need to buy a Disc set and OS???

bought a used Mac Mini and can't get past security password Seller refuses to answer emails. is there a keyboard command to take it back to factory settings or do I need to buy a Disc set and OS???

You can bypass the password and wipe the drive and return to the original facory installation if the seller included the orginal install DVDs with the Mac mini. If not you will need a retail version of Mac OS X. To boot from the Install DVD restart the mini, immediately slip in the DVD and press and hold the C key.

Using Mac computer and InDesign CS6, version 8.0, how can I fill a box from swatches?

Using Mac computer and InDesign CS6, version 8.0, how can I fill a box from swatches?

Make sure the Fill color proxy (solid square, upper left corner of the swatches panel) is selected and in front, then choose a swatch.

Used Mac Mini and reinstalling OS X

I bought a used Mac mini (late 2009) with mountain lion installed. The previous owner didn't do a factory reset, so I attempted to by using OS X Utilities and reformatting the hard drive. I then attempted to reinstall OS X, but since I'm not the original registered owner, I can't get past the login dialog during the license verification stage. What should I do at this point?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

The first thing to do with a second-hand computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. Changes made by Apple over the years have made this seemingly straightforward task very complex.
How you go about it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
It's unsafe, and may be unlawful, to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
1. If you don't own another Mac
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine is very old and has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for a MacBook Air. You should have received those media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To start up from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then restart the computer and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should start up in Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
Some models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you may not be able to reinstall 10.6 even from the original discs, and Internet Recovery may not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
2. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to prepare a USB device, then start up the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can start from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
3. Partition and install OS X
a. If you see a lock screen when trying to start up from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
b. Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
c. An unusual problem may arise if all the following conditions apply:
OS X 10.7 or later was installed by the previous owner
The startup volume was encrypted with FileVault
You're booted in Recovery mode (that is, not from a 10.6 installation disc)
In that case, you won't be able to unlock the volume or partition the drive without the FileVault password. Ask for guidance or see this discussion.
d. After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. If you're installing a version of OS X acquired from the App Store, you will need the Apple ID and password that you used. When the installation is done, the system will automatically restart into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
e. Run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the original owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed—you have to repurchase them.
4. Other issues
a. If the original owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're irrevocably linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
b. If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
c. When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a lifetime limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an iCloud account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information. The setup limit doesn't apply to Apple ID accounts used for other services, such as the iTunes and Mac App Stores, or iMessage. You can create as many of those accounts as you like.

I purchased my iMac using the same (and only) Apple ID I use to purchase apps. Third-party apps update fine, but the apps that came with my iMac (iPhoto, iMovie, etc) bring up a message saying I have to log in with the account I used to purchase them.

I used my only Apple ID to purchase my iMac (Intel-based one). I've never been able to update core apps that came with it. I can update third party apps I've bought (like Coda), but when I try to update Garage Band, iPhoto, iMovie and so on, a popup message appears saying "You have updates available for other accounts" and "Log in with the account you used to purchase this app in order to update it", or similar (see screenshot above).
The OS seems to get its updates fine - it's just the core apps from the App Store.
I've only ever had one Apple ID, so I have no idea what to do. I went to ask the Genius bar at my local Apple store, and they couldn't help, and insisted that I must have purchased the iMac using a different account, but I definitely didn't. There are a few posts on non-Apple forums of this happening to other people, so it must be a rare bug.
I'm a little concerned it may affect my ability to update from Lion to Mountian Lion. Can anyone help?
Dan

Have you done a Disk Repair and a Disk Permissions Repair?
If that doesn't resolve the problem I would suggest calling customer support about this issue as it is most likely on their (Apple's) end that the problem exists.

I am new to Mac. I have iphone and ipad but I bought a used Mac G4 and all is well except I cannot figure out how to download a program from a CD that I need for my business. I think it's a simple fix so HELP!

I am new to Mac. I own an iphone and an ipad but have always used a PC for my business use. I bought a used Powerbook G4 and all is well EXCEPT I cannot get a program to download from a CD. I think it's an easy fix so HELP!

A few questions ....
What is the program you are trying to download? It is a mac version?
Is this a vendor's CD or a copy or ?
What error message or other indication do you get that says the download won't happen?

Can't use MAC Filter and have Blinking Red Link Light on WRE54G

I just added a WRE54G V3 extender to my WRT54G V8, I have download the most recent firmware on both products. My network in using WPA and after fixing all the typo associated with setting all that up I still could not establish wireless connectivity. I am/was using MAC Filters on the WRT54G and had added and triple checked the WRE54Gs Mac address,, but until I disabled the Mac Filter I could not connect to the network. I would like to get that issue resolved. Secondly even with the MAC Filter disabled the Link Light blinks red at a regular interval. It does appear that I have connectivity, but the light just blinks away. If this is normal I could not find any reference is the written materal. Thanks for any advice you might have.
Message Edited by ecanon on 04-16-2008 01:31 PM

Sorry to appear toltake so long to get back to this, but I did post a message in reply somewhere ????, but it doesnt appear here??? and then I got tied up on some personal stuff.
Anyway, I followed all the advice I could find on this thread (thanks to everyone who has posted to any question on this thread) and after starting completely over reseting everything and basically configuring the RE with everything else turned off and then powering up everything starting with the router, I got everything up and running using WAP and all.
The only issue left is when I enable MAC filtering on the router to allow only the MAC addresses in the list access to the network the RE goes belly up. Disable Mac filtering and it comes right back up. I have triple checked the Mac address I entered on the list. The only reference to the RE's MAC address is on the sticker on the back. I can't find that verified anywhere in the configuration screens on the RE.
If I could get his working I could count my security as good as it gets and go on about my business.
Thanks again to all for helping me get this far.

Used Mac Pilot and now my mac hibernates instead of sleeping

I used mac pilot, the trial version and changed something that says always hibernate. Now everytime i close my computer it hibernates instead of sleeping. I only used the trial and i since downloaded it again but the feature to change that setting has been disabled. Is there anything I can do to reverse/fix this with out having to buy mac pilot?
Thanks!

There is a Dashboard widget called "Deep Sleep" which will help you change those settings.

How much power do iMacs use when working and asleep?

As usual, whilst claiming green credentials, the information Apple gives regarding power use is minimal and vague to the point of being meaningless.
The only figures they quote are:-
Maximum continuous use 205w (21.5") and 310w (27")
What exactly does maximum continuous use mean ?
a. When the machine is switched on but not doing anything
b. Working at general office tasks
c. Working flat out transcoding video etc.
Which of these is it? Or is it all 3?
Does it use more power when performing harder tasks?
If so, what power is used under scenarios a and b?
Finally, how much power is used in sleep mode?

Apple, nor any other device, apple or otherwise, isn't going to give you every power draw for every possible scenario. So they post what the maximum power would be under maximum load (graphics intensive, computations utilizing all the cores, etc.). That would be useful for estimating, say, what UPS to choose for the machine.
You want various power draws under various conditions then attach a wattmeter or a KiloWatt EZ.
Why are these details significant?
As for sleep, I found the following (reference):

I purchased a used Mac Mini and the previous owner did not remove their information. How do I do this?

Operating System is Mavericks and I have no discs, etc. I've tried to add a new admin and delete the old one but everything is asking me for the original password, which I don't have.

Before buying a second-hand computer, you should have run Apple Diagnostics or the Apple Hardware Test, whichever is applicable.
The first thing to do after buying the computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. Changes made by Apple over the years have made this seemingly straightforward task very complex.
How you go about it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
It's unsafe, and may be unlawful, to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
1. If you don't own another Mac
a. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine is very old and has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
b. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for a MacBook Air. You should have received the media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To start up from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then restart the computer and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
c. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should start up in Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
d. Some 2010-2011 models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you can't reinstall 10.6 even from the original media, and Internet Recovery will not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
2. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to prepare a USB device, then start up the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can start from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
3. Partition and install OS X
a. If you see a lock screen when trying to start up from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
b. Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
c. An unusual problem may arise if all the following conditions apply:
          OS X 10.7 or later was installed by the previous owner
          The startup volume was encrypted with FileVault
          You're booted in Recovery mode (that is, not from a 10.6 installation disc)
In that case, you won't be able to unlock the volume or partition the drive without the FileVault password. Ask for guidance or see this discussion.
d. After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. If you're installing a version of OS X acquired from the App Store, you will need the Apple ID and password that you used. When the installation is done, the system will automatically restart into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
e. Run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the original owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed—you have to repurchase them.
4. Other issues
a. If the original owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're irrevocably linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
b. If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
c. When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a lifetime limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an iCloud account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information. The setup limit doesn't apply to Apple ID accounts used for other services, such as the iTunes and Mac App Stores, or iMessage. You can create as many of those accounts as you like.

Transferred CS3 Premium from mac book pro to 2014 iMac using migration assistant and it won't open - says to contact administrator.

Using migration assistant I transferred the Adobe CS3 Premium to my new 2014 iMac. It is listed in applications but when I go to open it only Bridge opens, the others have a notice that cannot open and to contact administrator. I have the serial number - would that help? I don't see any place to enter it tho.
Thanks

never migrate adobe apps. properly install them:
Downloads available:
Suites and Programs: CC 2014 | CC | CS6 | CS5.5 | CS5 | CS4 | CS3
Acrobat: XI, X | 9,8 | 9 standard
Premiere Elements: 12 | 11, 10 | 9, 8, 7
Photoshop Elements: 12 | 11, 10 | 9,8,7
Lightroom: 5.6| 5 | 4 | 3
Captivate: 8 | 7 | 6 | 5
Contribute: CS5 | CS4, CS3
Download and installation help for Adobe links
Download and installation help for Prodesigntools links are listed on most linked pages. They are critical; especially steps 1, 2 and 3. If you click a link that does not have those steps listed, open a second window using the Lightroom 3 link to see those 'Important Instructions'.

IMAC Using MAC OS and WindowsVista - Removal

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