IMac Won't Boot - Won't Repair - Even after Erase and Install

One day my iMac acts weird. Apps bounce but don't open. I restart. I get greyscreen and spinning gear for 1.5 hours. Uh-oh.
Disk Utility run from OS X disk: cannot repair - "Invalid Node Structure" and "Invalid Key Length" - multiple instances.
So I erase volume and install. All goes fine. Install Tiger. Use upgrade to Leopard disk. Leopard boots and apps work (I try Safari and web connects) so I do software update thinking it's fixed.
Huge software update to 10.5.7 plus sundry others. After update reports "Could not install updates" - then it lists a load of updates (keynote, iwork etc) that it cant install.
Say's it'll restart. You guessed it: grey screen and spinning gear for 1.5 hours. Won't boot after forced restart either.
Run disk utility from OS X disk again: same errors, "node"; "key length" etc.
What now? Is 10.5.7 the problem? I have apple care so no major sweat but I need to get this thing operating baby.
PS - my boot camp partition that I have had for months and months still boots. So the HD isn't totally dead. At least can rule that out.

Suggest you do the following:
Extended Hard Drive Preparation
1. Boot from your OS X Installer Disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger or Leopard.)
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing. SMART info will not be reported on external drives.
4. Select the OS X volume (sub-entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
See if this fixes the problem. If it doesn't then there is some corruption in the directory block that reformatting or zeroing is just not able to fix. In such a case the resolution would be to repartition the drive from scratch. However, this will result in the loss of the Boot Camp partition as well.
Unless your Leopard disc is an upgrade-only disc, then you can install Leopard directly - no need to install Tiger first.

Similar Messages

  • Startup problems, even after erase and install

    Hi, i have a polycarbonate black macbook (I think its of the last black ones that were sold), I used to have leopard 10.5.8, and windows xp on it with refit as the boot menu, recently I removed refit, and updated to snow leopard, around that time i started having problems at boot time, either i got stuck at the grey apple screen, or got a prohibitory sign, or most commonly, a kernel panic, that leaves no log by the way. About 1 in 5 tries actually boots up, so I thought I should go the windows way and erase and install. And the problem is still there, I ran a memtest from single user mode, and all ram ended ok.
    I have since reinstalled rEFIt, and the problem at least changed, when I turn on the mac, at least the rEFIt logo comes up, sometimes it does load fine, and after that if i choose mac os its exactly as before, if I choose legacy os I get the no boot disk found error (which is what i expect since the computer only has mac os x)
    As an aditional note, when the computer does boot, everything works completely normal, the only problems are at boot up time.
    EDIT: Just to add that I cant seem to run Apple hardware test, it just doesnt boot holding the D key from either install disk, not before having installed refit, nor after
    Hope someone can find some insight in this, im really worried that this could be some logic board failing, I really cant afford such an expense. Thanks, and sorry for the long post, I wanted to detail it as much as possible
    Message was edited by: carlosjoan91

    If your hardware test boot device was on the hard drive rather than the installer disc, then installing rEFIt may destroy the boot loader originally used causing the loss of an ability to boot into the test. You would likely need an old version of the installer disc that had the hardware test on the disc rather than on the hard drive.
    At this point the best thing for you to do is the following:
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    1. Boot from your OS X Installer Disc.
    2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing. SMART info will not be reported on external drives. Otherwise, click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
    3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID (for Intel Macs) or APM (for PPC Macs) then click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
    4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
    5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
    6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
    Reinstall OS X and use Boot Camp Assistant to create a Windows volume instead of using rEFIt. You'll have fewer problems.

  • Missing HD Space even after Erase and Install

    Ok, so I own a 2.4GHz MBP, 200GB HD 7,200RPM, 4GB of memory... Penryn model that my brother purchased for the each of us back in about August of last year (2008). So recently my brother upgraded to the Unibody and gave me his MBP so that I can give it to my wife. So now, I have 2 of the same exact MBP's.
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    So my question is that, why am I missing HD space on my new MBP after Erase and Install and what can I do to get it right. Why wouldn't have the two computers have the same specs after Erase and Install has been done exactly the same way? (The only reason I did the Erase and Install on the new MBP is so that I can configure it for my wife with her login and info.)
    Sorry for the long read... but here are the cliff notes.
    1. I have 2 MBP that are exactly the same.
    2. I did an Erase and Install on both MBP.
    3. After Erase and Install, one of them has about 3GB less HD space.
    If anyone can help me, please let me know. I will post replies here as well.
    Otherwise, I will be taking it back to Apple since it's still under warranty.
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    But my problem is right after the same exact Erase and Install on both, they have different free space.
    How could you possibly know this without using the drives? IOW, how & when are you checking the drives' capacity & the used & available space of each?
    Again, I've noticed that the HD space specifies that it has 185.99GB of available space after the OS, but once you add certain things, it specifies that it will be using 9.2GB of the available 185.99GB.
    What do you mean by "185.99GB of available space after the OS"? What are the "certain things" & what is the "it" that specifies 9.2GB will be used?
    If you really mean each drive is showing a *total capacity* of 185.99 GB (before or after installing anything), this is right for a "200 GB" drive. That is because the drive capacity specification is given in decimal based gigabytes but the computer reports capacity in binary based ones. (See paragraph 3 in my post at http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=9389432&#9389432 or search this forum for the word "gibibyte" for more about that.) This number should not change when something is installed -- it is the total capacity of the drive.
    If the "certain thing" that says 9.2 GB (or whatever) is the installer application, be advised that it is telling you +the free space needed for the installation+, which is not that same thing as +the space used by the installed files+ once the process is complete. This is because the installer requires temporary file space to assemble the files it will install, hold the results of pre- & post- installation checks, & so on. This temporary space is eventually freed up once the files are in place. In part because of this, the reported space needed is only an estimate, & is always more than the space used by the installed files. (IOW, if it says 9.2 GB are needed for the installation, you should always see less than this used by the sum of all the files installed.)
    Thus, as I have already explained as best as I know how, you need to look not just at the free space of each drive but at the total capacity, the number of files & folders used on each volume, & the partition map if you want to make a meaningful comparison of the two drives. I have already explained how to do this using Disk Utility. If you are not willing to do that but instead rely on what appear to be flawed inferences from other things, I can't help you any more than I already have.

  • Kernal panic occurs, even AFTER erase and install

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