IMacs G3 power supply compatiblity question

I have an original Bondi blue iMac G3. Power supply works OK.
I have a flower power iMac G3 but the power supply is defunct.
Can I swop the Bondi 's iMac power supply to the flower power iMac?
Thanks.

Unfortunately the answer is no. I just checked Mactracker & the Bondi Blue iMac uses a 80 watt power supply. The Flower Power iMac uses a 150 watt power supply. So if you tried to use the Bondi Blue iMac's power supply it probably wouldn't provide enough wattage for the iMac to work properly. I would recommend looking on eBay for a replacement power supply. Some vendors might have one or more in stock.

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1st gen. iMac G5 power supply failure

Hi, all!
My 20" iMac G5 here at work collapsed and died on me about a week ago. The computer just deactivated abruptly; I actually had thought that I had kicked the plug or stepped on the power bar by mistake. I restarted it, and it worked for twenty minutes before dying again. Now it's entirely unresponsive. Having read up on the matter here and in the Mac support pages, I'm quite sure the power supply has failed. I'm in the process of finding out whether the computer is still covered under Apple's Repair Extension Program. (http://www.apple.com/support/imac/repairextensionprogram/ - I know the iMac model is correct, my serial number matches the range, I'm just not sure if the computer is less than three years old.)
Anyway, the important thing for me is the hard drive, not the machine itself. We're entirely Mac-based here at work, so there is no shortage of machines for me to work on (I've already replaced my old machine with a much newer Intel-based iMac), but I would very much like to retrieve my data from my old hard disk. I've downloaded the DIY guide for opening the 20" iMac G5 and removing the hard drive, but I need some advice on the best plan of action. Should I then open another, working G5, remove its hard drive, insert my old hard drive and transfer my files off to my new iMac through our company server? Or is there another way to approach it? Is the hard drive on my 20" first gen G5 compatible with newer mac models, or am I going to run into problems with connectors, physical disk size, etc.? Or, should I just leave well enough alone and leave the entire operation to a Mac Genius?
This will be my first time opening an iMac. I believe that I can open the machines and remove-replace the hard drives without voiding any warranties, correct?
Thanks so much in advance for your help and advice!
Adam

I am on the phone right now with a product specialist about my iMac G5 power supply issues. Kind of ***** because he has, in so many words, said that the Genius is the Alpha and Omega and can extend the 3 year coverage. For me that is great except that the Apple store is over an hour away. I don't understand why the dude on the phone can't pull the switch and make it happen as well.
Factor in:
Unplugging iMac G5 and all peripherals
Loading it in the car
Driving an hour
Carrying it into the Mall (apple store)
Waiting for my Genius appointment
More than likely getting it fixed for free (from the sounds of things)
Driving back after it is fixed
Doing everything listed in reverse.
Would it just be easier to pay the $108 for a new power supply, wait a few days, undo some screws, and BAM! it works again?
Update. Off the phone now. The product specialist flexed his muscles, back handed the Genius to gain authority, and basically stated that they WILL DEFINITELY repair either the power supply or the logic board or both if needed. I have already had them replace the logic board once. BUT, I still have to load it up and take it to the Apple Store. Boo.

Are 2009/2011 iMac power supply compatible with mid2010 iMac?

I have a mid-2010 that doesn't turn on. None of the LEDs turn on and I've been troubleshooting for a couple weeks with no luck. I want to buy a power supply for the iMac but I'm not sure if others are compatible. I can't find one specifically for the 2010 one.
Information:
Mid-2010 21.5" iMac
EMC 2389
About 2.5-3 years old
It doesn't turn on
None of the diagnostic LEDs are lit
Makes a small zzz noise every couple seconds when plugged in
Suspected power supply failure

Switching won't harm your machine.

IMac 700SE - power supply dead? can i get a new one?

well the power went out last week, and when it came back up my iMac did not
right now, i plug it in, hit the power button, the power light flashes, i hear a click (about a half second later), then it just goes off and the power button stops responding it to anything, i unplug it, plug it back in, hit the power button and the same thing happens, to me this sounds like a dead power supply as i have had this happen on a few PCs and when the power button stops functioning that to me sounds like its the power supply overloading, and in this case meaning its dead
now i don't really want to spend the money on a new computer as this is only used by my mom every few couple of days for email/IM/web, so does anyone know where i could get a replacement power supply? (i think) its a sliver shaped board that attaches to the main board and makes me think that i will never find a replacement unless i buy another 700SE iMac off ebay

nope, didn't help, nothing changed with the new battery
though i did notice that it booted when i didn't power up the drive (no power cable to it), but that has nothing to do with the battery, i also tried pressing every button attached to the board and nothing helped, so to me it looks like the power supply can't spin up the hard drive (the drive is good too, its in my other comp right now)
does anyone know how compatible the 400Mhz iMac is with the 700Mhz parts wise? i'm suppose to be getting a 400Mhz iMac soon, and would like to know if i could swap out the logic board on the 400 with the one from the 700 as that 400 one has a better screen and working power supply, but i would like the nice speed boost

IMac G5 power supply

I have an iMac G5 that has already been affected (2.5 years ago) by the power supply issue. A few days ago, I was on my iMac, and it turned off and won't turn back on. I called the Apple customer relations line and they told me that I was SOL and its not even a month after the three year marker from the purchase date. I've read on other messages that some people have had Apple replace their power supply for free even after the three years, but they told me that I would have to pay for it myself. Does anyone know how I could get it fixed? If not, what would it cost and is it even worth it? Will the power supply just keep failing?
-Amanda

I think it depends entirely on the representative spoken to, the stock available at that particular moment, the chemistry between the the tech and the Apple customer and perhaps the phase of the moon.

IMac 24" power supply replacement

My power supply went bad,it is part # 614-0405. I don't see many replacement parts for this part number online. Is there another power supply that will work in its place, maybe from the 2008 imac 24"?
thx

Not really. I would recommend taking it in for service at an authorized Apple Service Provider. You can locate one:
http://www.apple.com/buy/locator/service/
Good luck!
Roger

IMac broken, Power Supply replacement?

My 13 months iMac G5 20" 2GHz shut down all the time.. mostly within 10 minutes after booting.
A friend of mine had the same problem 2 months ago. Apple replaced his Power Supply for free since the guaranty is 12 months.
My machine is one month past guaranty, 13 months old and therefor Apple wants $200 to fix my computer!!
As I can see my iMac ain't covered by the iMac Repair & Extentionprogram since mine is a 2GHz.. My seriealnumber starts with W8519XXXXXX..
Does W8435xxxxxx - W8522xxxxxx mean that all serialnumbers between these two are convered by this program?
http://www.apple.com/support/imac/repairextensionprogram/
How can Apple charge me $200 for a obious production fault?!
iMac G5, 2GHz, 20" Mac OS X (10.4.7)

All serial numbers within the numbers listed should be covered, and your number seems to fall in that category. However, if yours is not a Rev A , Apple may feel that your problem is not the one they are dealing with. They do specifically state:
"Some second generation iMac G5 computers have serial numbers that fall within the upper band of the ranges listed below. Only first generation iMac G5 computers are affected by this program."
I would call them again and try, politely, to point out that not only did your warranty just expire, but that your serial number is among the affected ones and your problem is one of the ones the extension program addresses.
Good luck,
Miriam
Rev A 20" iMac G5, 15"iMac G4, 15"iMac G3 DVD Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Power supply compatibility question

I currently have a HP 4250n printer with a broken power supply and an old 4050 HP with a working power supply, I was wondering will the 4250 work with a 4050 power supply in it?
Feedback would be much appreciated.

Which "model" & "generation" G5 iMac do you have?
Need this info so that the knowledgeable users can provide you with the proper troubleshooting solution(s).
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=301724-en How to identify your iMac
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.4/en/mh355.html Getting information about your computer
You can have this info displayed on the bottom of every post by going to 'My Settings' which is located in the column on the right under your name, and filling in the information asked for.
Thank you

KT3 Ultra2 Power Supply Fan Question

What is the connector PSFAN1 used for? I thought the Power Supply Fan comes on when you turn on the computer. Seems strange that you would have to route the power through the motherboard....I am sorry for the newbie question. I do have a newer Enermax case that seems to have the correct connector coming from the wiring harness out of the power supply. Do I plug that wire onto the PSFAN1 connector?
Dan

Yeah, you will be fine if your plug it in. I have an enermax as well and it is plugged into my mobo and all is well. There is usually a fan in the bottom of the power supply (facing the cpu) and another on the back. The one in the bottom sucks air away from the cpu and the one in the back sucks the air out. You may want to look and see if there is a fan control on the back of the power supply as some let you control the speed of the out blowing fan. Oh, by the way, I just saw that they have three fan power supplies now!

Power Supply Cooling Question

Well, I've been up and running now for the last week or so with no major issues.
I'd like to thank all of you that answered my previous questions during my search for parts and helping me put a good plan in place so that the building of this system was painless.
I have a question though that kind of concerns me.
I noticed one day that what should be an exhaust from the power supply is not an exhaust at all. The air flow is actually into the power supply. I thought this was very unusal. Years ago I actually did have a power supply that had a fan mounted backwards, but that was some cheap case/ps combo in the P2 days.
My power supply in this system is an Enermax EG465P-VE. I said to myself "no way could it be mounted backwards". After checking things out very closely I found that when I removed the side case cover, the power supply started exhausting in the right direction. Put the case cover back on and the air flow went into the power supply again. Ifinally came to the conclusion that the 120mm fan in the back of the case about 2-3 inches below the power supply was actual exhausting so much air out the case that this 120mm fan was actually drawing air against the power supply's fans and causing a slightly negative flow of air (in the wrong direction) through the power supply. I hope I have clearly described the situation.
What concerns me is that the negative flow results in very little air flowing within the power supply, which could potentially result in the power supply overheating and failing resulting in a MoBo and processor frying.
To clarify again, the power supply is trying to push air out, but the 120mm fan is slightly stronger and is more than neutrallizing any flow through the power supply.
Just a little more info... I do have one 80mm fan in the front of the case sucking air into the case, blowing over the hard drive.
There is another spot for a second 80mm fan in the front, but since I'm not over-clocking and really not producing a lot of heat I didn't think I needed two fans in front.
The only other solution that I can think of is to somehow rig up a verister or sensor on the 120mm fan, but to cover all temperture combinations could result in something very complicated for something that shouldn't be that complicated.
Maybe someone has noticed the same problem and has a solution.
Thanks.
//PantherFan

When you see the specs on a cooling fan it says so many CFM. But really what it should be saying is how many CFM at a given speed and at a given pressure ratio (exit to inlet pressure ratio). For a given speed the relationship between flow rate and pressure ratio is on a negative slope. That is if you reduce pressure ratio, flow rate goes up and vice versa.
Using your example suppose I put in two intake fans that on spec each draws 10 CFM and one exhaust fan that does 15 CFM and lets assume that the case is so sealed that air can only enter and leave the case via the intake and exhaust holes. When you turn this system on both intake fans try to pressurise the case but as the case pressure goes up, so does the pressure ratio acrsss the fans. Recall the slope relationship. What happens is that the flow rate drops across the two intake fans. Similarly as the pressure inside the case goes up, it become a lot easier for the exhaust fan to do its job because its pressure ratio is dropping. So what does really happen in this situation? Well the overall system reaches an equilibrium condition where the two fans deliver just enough air that the exhaust fan takes out. You can also consider extreme cases where you have massive intake fans and a weak exhaust fan. In this extreme case you'd be better off by removing the weak exhaust fan because the pressure across it becomes so low that you would not need it. You can take the argument around and make the case for a powerful exhaust fan and obviate the need for an intake fan.
Then why do we need so many fans if all we need is one powerful exhust or intake fan? This happens because as air enters the case, it follows its least resistance path inside the case. This implies that you may end up with "dead air" areas in some regions of the case which won't be good for heat duild up. Now this does not mean that by a careful rearrangement of the components you would not be able to come up with a configuration that only uses one fan. To that you'd need to use computational flow techniques and mathematically model each component in terms of blockage and the amount of heat being put out. This is quite expensive to do so but this is how its done for the high power computers.

IMac 233 power supply issue

My bondi iMac died several years ago and I've been trying to resurrect it. The AV board was replaced professionally some time back and everything was great until it abruptly would not start. I just replaced the power supply board but all I get is a persistent ticking sound. After mucking around a bit I discovered that if I unplugged the grey cable bundle (with one blue wire) from the power supply board at P908, which connects to the AV board at P505, the computer boots normally but without video. Can anyone identify this cable? Can it go bad? I've tried every suggestion from every forum but nothing else has any impact whatsoever, just tick tick tick....I know I could probably connect an external monitor but I don't have an old one or an adaptor. Besides, that solution lacks elegance. It's too pretty to stick in a beige box.
I love this computer and hate to trash it, so thanks to anyone who can help!

My guess is that it is not a problem with the cable. The problem may be that the power supply board is becoming faulty (weaker). Therefore, when it is not powering up the video subsystem (which probably draws at least half the overall power), the power supply is able to power the rest of the system.
It is also possible that the PAV board has gone bad for the second time. That would explain why it does not work when it is connected. Quite possible. Even replacement parts are old, and even if was not previously used.
Fortunately, it seems like you know how to take that iMac apart all the away, which is not easy (be careful with the high voltage in the backside of the CRT - it's there even when the iMac is disconnected). If the problem is the power supply board, they usually do not go bad, so it should be possible to find a good replacement on eBay or elsewhere. If the problem is the PAV board again, you know the deal...

IMac G5 Power Supply Going Bad Again?

I had my power supply replaced back in December 2005. Now my 20" iMac ALS is shutting off randomly again. Often when starting up it the fans will get loud and the computer will shut down. When booting from a CD, the computer will do the same thing - most of the time. I got it to boot up so I could run the Apple Hardware Test, but it shutoff during the mass storage segment. (It said my Logic Board was okay). I was able to boot once using the TechTool Deluxe that I got with my Protection Plan and I had no errors. I've tried several times to boot up with the DiskWarrior CD, but the computer always shuts down before it even gets past the grey Apple.
So, I can sometimes boot from CD. The computer sometimes shuts off suddenly. The computer sometimes won't boot beyond the Apple until shutting it down and trying several times. However, sometimes the computer starts right up.
I've ruled out software, the hard drive and probably the Logic Board (since it passed the Apple Hardware Test). Can it be anything beside the power supply?
My iMac falls under both extended warranties and I have AppleCare Protection Plan until sometime in 2008. If only it wasn't so hard to get a reservation at the Genius Bar...

Hey... had the SAME thing just happen to me. It IS the power supply, trust me. The model iMac you have had defective power supplies from the start. It was/is just a matter of time before they go out. The GOOD news is you have Apple Care (although you are probably covered under the Repair Extension program for this issue/iMac model)... Now beecasue you HAVE Apple Care and are not gonna get this fixed under the extension program APLE WILL COME TO YOU to fix your iMac. It is part of your Applecare agreement. Tell them it is impossible for you to bring this heavy, awkward (albeit a design wonder) computer to a genius bar -- which are often situated in malls and hard to get to areas carrying an iMac. Tell them you just can't do it. They WILL come to you. It actually free up the Apple Stores from doing the repairs and tying up the genius's... I just did this, a three day turn around and I never left my house... and I live in LA where we have at least 6 Apples stores in my vicinity. Hope this helps! If it does can you reward with a "helpful/solved" (I know that's tacky to ask for but this will solve his probably)... Do it, call Apple, tell them you physically can't carry it in (probably the scenario) and they will dispatch a tech. GOOD GOOD Luck.... I know this shut off thing can make you crazy!!!! Kudos for buying AppleCare!

IMac 27" Power supply problems?

I'm on my second power supply on my iMac 27" about 6 months old. Wouldn't wake up from sleep (twice now). Luckily, it's still under warranty, but I'm wondering if anyone else is having the same problem or if I got a "lemon" iMac? It's a bummer being without a machine for a week every few months. Will Apple replace it or do I have to go through this every few months?

If you haven't already I would STRONGLY recommend buying Apple Care. On a computer that is covered by AppleCare if the same thing happens 3x Apple will replace the computer. If you aren't familiar with AppleCare it:
1. Extends the one year warranty to 3 total years from original date of purchase.
2. Offers AppleCare telephone support. This can be very useful if you are new to OS X or Macs.
You can buy AppleCare directly from Apple or you can frequently find it discounted from authorized Apple Resellers such as Amazon or LA Computer Company.
Also I don't know how good the power is to your area of the islands. If the machine is plugged into the wall or inexpensive power strip power fluctuations could be damaging the computer. I would recommend getting a UPS which will provide emergency power in the event of a full power loss, enough to do an orderly shutdown. It will also provide consistent power and finally almost all come with insurance in the event your machine is damaged by a power related problem while connected. In other words it offers another layer of peace of mind. Personally I have had good luck with APC products, you can find those at your local Costco, Office Supply store or computer store.

My imac stops(freezes) everytime when I try to extract ipod nano. So if I quit the connection by force, it stops again. Have no choice but to shut down the imac pushing power supply button. Pls help me solve out this problems.

My imac stops everytime when I try to extract ipod nano. So if I do it by force it freezes agian. Have no choice but to shut down the computer
by pushing power button. Pleas help me solve this out!!!
It's not good to shut off the power forcibly, right? (I dun know what else I can do...)

Hi Min! I'm having exactly the same issue - have been putting up with it now for months but have finally had enough! Every single time i eject either my iphone, ipad or ipod nano, itunes freezes up, the computer becomes unresponsive. Usually i can use the mouse to highlight icons but the system doesn't respond, the keyboard doesn't work and I have to do a hard reset.
Arrrrrggggggh!!!!!!! lol
Someone please help!!!

Power supply mobo question

i have a an antec psu and it comes with a 3 pin plug for the motherboard, since my motherboard has only 2 3 pin plugs 1 for the HSF and the other one for the system fan. but my mobo dont have a system fan, so can i plug in the 3 pin connector from the psu to the system fan plug?

I dont think it matters which it 3 pin it is hooked upto.. but I could be wrong. However it is only to monitor the speed of your fans and doesn't draw power like it would if were a sys fan, anyway try it and see if the monitor of your fans works...
I have a question also simular. I have an Antec550 w/. the front control panel on it. My board is the K7N2-Delta which has a sys fan plugged into the MB and running the xp 2200+ stock heatsink in fan which can only hook to the 3-pin on the MB. The PSU has a three pin which hooks to the MB and is supposed to (when I turn the knob on the front) speed up or slow down my CPU fan.
The montherboard does not have an extra 3 pin, is there something I can buy that will convert my three pin from my CPU fans to a four pin so I can hook it up directly to my PSU and then hook my PSU to the board to adjust the speed of the fan??
Or what are my solutions?

IMacs G3 power supply compatiblity question

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