Image quality on @nywhere master

1.How cand I improve the image quality on this tuner? It looks worse than my ex tuner (wayjet) on the same os(xp) and system(radeon7000,p41800,256ddr).
Where is the Invincible video quality supported by Silicon Tuner?
2.What can I do to see both cable and antenna programs in the same tv list?
I`ve tryed with free scan but it doesn`t work.
3.The software in soo buggy

The signal of the cable is strong, i don`t hve problems with catching any tv station..
The ideea is that the image quality is not as i expected(is not clear.I had two other tv tuners before and the quality of image of then was superior.I dont`t know what to do to improve de image.I`m not interested of capture, I want only to see my tv programs in a good conditions.So, pleasse help me someone to solve the problem...

Similar Messages

TV@nywhere Master poor video quality with 6800 GT

I have the TV@nywhere master (8606-020) and it was working fin with my NVIDIA Geforce 6800 GT OC (256MB) but when I updated the driver to their latest version, every time I would go full-screen in MSIPVR it would make lines all through the video. I reinstalled drivers, MSIPVS and same thing. I then rolled back the NVIDIA driver, and the issue disappeared. Anyone have the same issue and know how to use the new driver from NVIDIA and get it working right? Thanks!
- Mike

Hi:
Thaniks for writing back. My comment really was directed at ellucidating how many others might have poorer quality using Nvidia 6800-based graphics cards as the originator of this thread implicated. Second, as to your comments, it would seem a good idea to stay with the old drivers. The new drivers were supposed to solve TitanTV directed recordings; this they do better, but still insufficiently at least in my hands. Maybe the only choice left is to stay with the originals. But before uninstalling the current version and installing the original, I had a third question that perhaps you could address.
Perhaps you could comment on why the driver scan at http://driveragent.com
reveals my currently up-to-date version MSI 8606 (TV@nywhere master) Audio Capture and MSI 8606 Video capture drivers are out of date? Based on the listings in Device Manager, they are currently Conexant version cx88aud.sys, 2.3.79.0 and C88Vid.SYS, 4.0.102.0. Did my drivers fail to update correctly, are there drivers for this available somewhere else, not listed on the MSI website, like Intervideo, etc, or is this website wrong? I hate to pay money to find out they are simply wrong. Do you get the same results?
doc john

How can I change the image quality of a background image on a master slide?

I can change the image quality from low to high for other images in my Captivate project, but the background image I'm using on my master slide looks pixellated. I would like to change this image to high-quality but I don't see the option in my properties panel on my master slide.
Thanks for any help!

You cannot import AI images directly. However, when I use Illustrator drawings, I'll import them as smart object in Photoshop and then you can import the PS-layer.
The quality you set in Captivate is not for individual images, but for the slides that are published as bitmap. This means that it doesn't matter if the object is on a master slide or on a regular slide IMO
Lilybiri

Connecting FM input on @nywhere Master to cable

The folded dipole FM antenna that comes with the @nywhere Master capture card has only very limited range (a few strong local stations). However, the cable that provides our TV signal provides a great number of local and distant FM signals. How can I connect the cable to the FM input on the capture card?
I have assumed that the furnished folded dipole is 300 ohms. Is this correct?
On that assumption, I then connected a 75-ohm to 300-ohm matching transformer (in which the input and output are [galvanically] isolated from one another), and then soldered an RCA pin plug onto the 300-ohm side of the transformer and plugged the RCA connector into the FM input on the card. That didn't work at all.
I'm handy with a soldering iron, etc. I just need some advice as to what parts I need and how to configure them.

The signal of the cable is strong, i don`t hve problems with catching any tv station..
The ideea is that the image quality is not as i expected(is not clear.I had two other tv tuners before and the quality of image of then was superior.I dont`t know what to do to improve de image.I`m not interested of capture, I want only to see my tv programs in a good conditions.So, pleasse help me someone to solve the problem...

TV @nywhere Master Resolved and Unresolved issues

Hi all, I'm new to this forum and to MSI products.
I have a P4P800 asus mobo + P4 2.4 GHZ/800fsb cpu + 9700 ati graphics card + 1 Gig of OCZ Ram (matched 3200 ddr in dual channel mode) and of course a TV @nywhere Master capture/tuner card. Oh yeah, Windows XP Pro.
All the drivers are the most recent release except for the 9700 which is the second most recent.
Good stuff:
FM radio works fine although I can't seem to record FM in stereo??
Capture works well too, I've been busy capturing the old hi-8 cam-corder memorys!
Broadcast recording works fine too once I figured out that I can't get a DVD capture quality in the audio because my onboard audio only samples up to 44.1! Result is distorted sound.
Remote works fine too.
Bad stuff:
Video will freeze sometimes when watching TV content.
All too frequently, I can't completely close the TV tuner down by any means.
I am always left with a frozen video image and audio still working. I can activate the FM tuner but it reverts back to TV audio when I shut it down! Task manager will shut it down 1 in 10 times and no matter what, I don't see the usual system resource usage when it's hung.
Usually when I succeed in shutting down with the task manager I cannot restart the TV tuner. Last Night I got it shut down and after doing a bit of web-browsing, I pushed the remote power button and it sprang to life! ?(
I think this ties into the very slow restarts when the card hangs on closing. I usually will attempt a restart after it hangs and find if I wait, it will restart eventually. I usually get fed-up and push reset!
Thats my experience so far and I think I could be happy with this card except for this hang-on-closing issue.
I would appreciate any ideas!

I forgot to mention one other small issue.
About 80% of the time, when turning on the computer, there is a lot of electrical noise and hiss coming from the card. I turn the radio on and off and things are quiet again. ?(

Tv@nywhere Master - Cant capture higher than 352X288

Hi
I have a Tv@nywhere Master and i cant capture any higher that 352x288 resolution.
I tryed VirtualDub and Adobe Premier . They both say : Unsuported Video Format when i try to select 640x480 or 720x576 . (PAL mode)
The original software (MSIPVS) lets me choose the format and resolution but i dont want to use it because it offers poor quality.
I am capturing from VHS at maximum quality possible and storing it in AVI uncompressed and then use TMPEGenc to SVCD.
Can anyone comment on this ?
Doesnt this board capture higher than 352x288 ???
Thank you
Filipe

I use it in 768x576 without any problems
you just have to look for a Use Smart Tee Filter setting because the card can`t both capture and preview over 288 so you`ll need to split the data on the Capture pin in order to provide preview over 288 lines.

TV@nywhere Master Recording Problems

The TV@nywhere Master works fine for viewing, but I can't record without problems. There is a sound problem with all available versions of WinDVR. The recorded sound regularly "warbles" or pulsates. It is detectable when a musical tone is playing, otherwise it may be hard to hear. It is very annoying once you pick up on it. Other interVideo programs WinProducer and WinDVD Recorder exhibit the same problem.
I tried PowerVCR and I get an error message when attempting to record in MPEG2:
S0009 : Unable to render preview video stream.
I have all the latest drivers and software versions. I even tried a clean install of Windows several times and a different sound card, but no luck. I'm getting nowhere with tech support. Very frustrating.
ASUS A7N8X Deluxe MB
Onboard nForce2 sound (also tried Soundblaster Audigy)
AMD 2800+ Barton CPU
512MB DDR RAM
GeForce 5600 Video Card
250 Gig Hard drive
Windows XP

Using PowerVCR II 3.0, and there is no Use Smart Tee option available.
Here's all the options:
Video -> Overlay Options -> Overlay/Non-Overlay (Non-overlay causes a crash)
Profiles
Check boxes for MMX, SSE, 3DNow and Enhanced 3DNow. All are checked.
Recording / Advanced -> Advanced Options
Video Smoothing (during recording) - unchecked
Intelligent Noise Removal (during recording) checked
Enable Time-Shifting when recording - unchecked
Have tried changing most of these settings but always get error message, unless I use MPEG1 which is not acceptable quality.
I did a search in Help for "Smart" and for "Tee" and there are no matches.

Image quality in Viewer vs Full Screen

I've seen lots of discussions about this in earlier version (pre 1.5x), but they seem to be backward from what I'm seeing. I have an extremely noticable difference in image quality in the viewer vs full screen. At first, I just thought my images weren't any good. Then, I brought the same raw files up in Photoshop and they were pretty good. I looked in Aperture in Full Screen mode, and it was close or equivalent to Photoshop.
Is anybody else seeing the image be downright bad (looks horribly out of focus) in the viewer but good in full screen? I'm not talking about the thumbnails.
I'm using an iMac G5 20". I know that my video card is probably underpowered for this, but that should only affect speed (which is mostly tolerable).
iMac G5 20 Mac OS X (10.4.7)

I think I read in the manual that Aperture uses a different type of on-screen sharpening for windowed, full screen, and show master. Probably trying to speed it up in windowed by using a cheaper method.
They all should look the same when viewed at 100%.
And for what it's worth, I think Aperture does a lot better job than most programs when viewed at odd sizes. I don't have much to compare it to, but iPhoto and Adobe Elements look awful in comparison.

Very Poor Image Quality In Viewer, JPEG Artifacts

I upgraded to Aperture 3 some time ago, and purchased a new Mac Pro specifically for this application. I am an amature/ sometime professional photographer and I have been using Aperture since Version 1. This weekend I finally had some time to sit down with Aperture 3 for some serious work with my scanned film images. These are large TIF masters scanned in with my Nikon CoolScan 9000. Some are medium format black & white Tri-X Pan images, others are 35mm, also black & white Tri-X Pan. Everything scanned in on the Nikon is at the maximum resolution for the master, on the theory that I can always bump it down later if that's necessary.
I am noticing vastly lower image quality in the viewer then with Aperture 2. Specifically, I am seeing massive JPEG artifacts in the viewer image then I have ever seen before. The images also render darker in the viewer then before. These artifacts do not appear when I export my images (say as JPEGS for posting to a web page), or when I print them. The quality of the exported and print images seem just fine and the exported JPEGS are completely free of the artifacts I am seeing in the viewer.
I have tried rebuilding the previews several times, experimenting with different quality settings. I have experimented with different proof profile settings. My printer is an Epson Stylus Photo R1800 and I have tried various paper settings for it as well as other proof profile settings such as the Adobe and Apple RGB settings and the generic grey profiles. Every time I change a setting I have forced a rebuild of the previews to no detectable effect. Nothing I do seems to have any effect whatsoever on the image quality in the viewer which remains relentlessly the same as it always was.
This poor viewer image quality is making it very difficult to work in Aperture 3. I suspect there is a setting somewhere like an easter egg in this new Aperture I haven't found yet but it is becoming very frustraiting and I could use a pointer because, again, nothing I have tried has changed the image quality in the viewer in any way I can detect and the photos look perfectly awful there...darker and loaded with JPEG artifacts. Things export and print just fine, but I need to see what I am going to get in the viewer or I can't do my work.

I interpret this as ... Eventually you should be looking at the Master with the Version changes applied. I'm assuming at this point, you aren't looking at the Preview. Since you don't need Previews to view and edit your images.
Yeah...that's sort of what I gleaned from that text. I was experimenting with the preview settings because I couldn't see any other way to fix the problem. What I'm hearing now is that the problem has no fix. If you scan in black & white film negatives (or anything else that's monochrome I suppose) with the color space set as gray scale you are asking for trouble. The sense I get from the text Gomez Addams referred me to is the behavior in that case is unpredictable, and furthermore film photographers aren't the customer base Apple is trying to cultivate with this product.
Aperture is designed to work with images from digital cameras which use an RGB color space...
Okay...fine. I have several digital cameras I occasionally use for professional work and I am here to tell you Aperture is an absolute blessing for that work. I do shoots every now and then for a local community newspaper and I would not want to live without this product. I remember back when I was a teenager in the 70s being up all night in the darkroom to get an assignment I'd had to cover right before deadline, and then go to my day job the next morning without any sleep. This is much better. And even with the personal art photography it is good to be able to just scan things in and make adjustments in the computer. You can do so much more. I would not want to go back.
But I reckon I need to find something I can rely on for my film work, or at least my black & white film work because as I read this Apple is not supporting film photography with this product and black & white film photography in particular and some of us still use film. No...scanning in my Tri-X negatives in the CoolScan as color produces weird results and anyway Photoshop and GIMP for goodness sakes seem to handle grayscale files just fine. Plus, I've already got thousands of those negatives scanned, I am not rescanning all that in RGB just to satisfy Aperture. The color slide film scans don't seem to be a problem, but that's now. I think I'm being told not to count on That always being the case either.
Aperture is designed to work with images from digital cameras...
Okay...fine...film is old technology after all, Nikon isn't even making their film scanners anymore...check the prices on the few still new-in-the-box ones left out there. My CoolScan 9000 is selling for twice on the second-hand market what I paid for it new and new it wasn't cheap. And yet it's not economically viable for Nikon to continue making them. Film is dying. But I still like working with film and film cameras and I reckon I'll keep doing that until I can't get any more of it and my stash of Tri-X Pan bulk rolls runs out.
Thank you all very much for your help. I think I see what I need to do now.

Numerous Problems with New TV@nywhere Master

Greetings all. A few days ago, I purchased a TV@nywhere Master card. I own two MSI mainboards and an MSI video card that I think are great, but so far this product has been nothing but junk. I am having numerous problems with it that I have not been able to resolve:
1. The remote control just plain doesn't work.
2. I am unable to adjust the TV volume within the MSIPVR tuner software. Turning it up and down or muting it does nothing. However, whenever I exit the program, it mutes the line-in jack on my sound card and doesn't unmute it when I run the program again! I have to run the Creative Surround Mixer and unmute the jack before I get any TV audio.
3. Originally when I booted up, the radio tuner kicked in with a fuzzy feed, even though the software was not running. I had to run the software and exit it to make this stop. I believe this has resolved itself.
4. The MSIPVR software seems very unstable.
I have tried updating all the software from the official MSI drivers page and I also tried the unofficial releases of both the drivers and the MSIPVR 3.0 beta from this forum. The 3.0 beta build seems even more unstable (though it is a beta so this is understandable), but none of my other problems have been resolved either. I've perused the forums looking for ideas, but haven't found anything that's worked. I've also tried all these steps on two different systems that I have with the same results.
I'm really shocked that MSI would release such a low-quality product as most of their other things are quite well made. I am looking to see if anyone has suggestions I can try to resolve this. I am interested in keeping this card if these can be fixed, but if not, I'll be returning this unit and picking up something from ATI instead. There's absolutely no reason for a card to be runnign this poorly and be in a shipping state.
Below are my system specifications should they be of any help:
AthlonXP 2800+ FSB333
MSI K7N2 Delta-L nForce 2
1024MB PQI PC3700 LL
Sound Blaster Audigy
ATI RADEON 9600XT
Promise FastTrak TX2000
2x40GB Western Digital 8MB (In RAID 0 Stripe)
Windows XP Professional Service Pack 2
All Latest Drivers/Updates for Windows and All Hardware

Quote from: TunerFAQ on 17-February-05, 10:17:47
One more note (great stuff Stu:))... with regards to the remote... try to give it a slight extra push into the socket :D.
As stupid as it sounds, it happens :p... at least with me it did. I kept on trying to get the remote to work in the beginning, only to find out in the end that I hadn't played it ALL the way into the input socket. After the click, it worked.
I hope you can get the sound stuff working though. That's definitely a pain :(. I'm personally having issues with the original card and new software now... but yeah, I shall wait on your feedback first:).
OK, I've finally had some time to try out the various other suggestions that have been made and unfortunately, have met with no success. I tried changing my audio to CD In on my Audigy which still has the same sound problems. I also checked out the connection with the remote and it is in all the way. Still no go on that one. My power supply ratings are:
+5V: 35A Maximum/0A Minimum
+12V: 24A Maximum/0.8A Minimum
+3.3V: 28A Maximum/0A Minimum
-5V: 0.5A Maximum/0A Minimum
-12V: 1.0A Maximum/0A Minimum
+5V SB: 2.0A Maximum/0A Minimum
At this point, I'm pretty much at my wits end. If anyone has other ideas, I can entertain them, but tomorrow if I don't have this up, I'll be taking it back. This card is demonstrating itself as just poorly designed and built. Thanks for your help all!

Does Export Version reduces image quality?

Hi,
I got smaller file size when I "export version" at "original size". My master was jpeg of 5.1MB and I exported in jpeg format, I got 3.6MB. If I "export master", I do get 5.1MB. What does Aperture do to the jpeg image that reduces the file size?
Then I played around with "image quality", which is 10 by default. If I set it to 11, I got a file of 4.1 MB, still smaller than the original 5.1MB. Set it to 12 I got a file of 10.4MB. I am kind of confused. I guess the "image quality" relates to degree of jpeg compression, and a 12 setting means that Aperture compresses the jpeg image at a lower compression ratio than my camera? Does Aperture uncompress jpeg image and re-compress it when "export version"?
The bottom line is, how do I preserve image quality after adjustments? In other words, I would like to export at the same image quality as my original photo, or as close as possible (I assume Aperture reduces jpeg image quality a bit every time I apply adjustments to the image via export). Thanks much for your time.

Wanderzhuanyou wrote:
2) When I make adjustments in Aperture I actually work on the image Aperture produces out of the master file - which should be about 73MB in my computer memory as the size of the image is 2848 x 4272 and Aperture works in 16 bit.
Internally, Core Image (which Aperture uses) actually works in 32-bit, but your basic idea is right.
3) When I export, Apertures compresses this 73MB image (assume adjustments don't make much difference to the image size) to a jpeg file.
First the image will be reduced to the bit depth of your export preset. Image adjustments will make quite a difference to the final file size because areas of high definition detail and a large tonal range will both increase the file size for a given compression setting. So any sharpening, for example, will increase the file size.
As a test, export an image with no sharpening applied, then add some edge sharpening and export it again. You should see a noticeable difference in file sizes.
Correct?
Pretty much.
Ian

Determine/Reset Scale of Linked Graphics - Maximize Image Quality

Hi, we're currently using Illustrator CS4 for website comps to quickly mock-up pages for our clients to sign-off (we've explored using Fireworks, but there's just some major things missing that we need in regards to typography, global swatches, etc.).
But we would like to generate some final images from these files as well for the sake of efficiency, as I believe Illustrator is 'supposed' to use the same Save for Web interface as Photoshop. It's just very efficient for us to have our slices designed, setup, optimized and named in this same master document.
But I ran a test comparing the results when generating a final JPEG from Illustrator vs. Photoshop using the same exact settings, and on a file that was 100% of final size. But the Photoshop file was significantly sharper. So I investigated a bit more and found out that the image was scaled just a bit in Illustrator (maybe 110% or less). When I got the image to be as close to 100% as possible in Illustrator, the differences were negligible.
- So what is the quickest/easiest method of resetting an imported image to 100% of the actual size in Illustrator?
I look at the Transform palette (where I would see the scaling in InDesign), but it doesn't tell me anything. I had to look into the Link Information in the links palette to find the scale, but I can't change anything from there.
- Any other tips for keeping linked files looking as good and sharp as possible all the way through the process to Saving for Web?
- If the original image has been retouched and optimized (it's a high quality image) in Photoshop before importing into Illustrator, 'SHOULD' the results from Illustrator match Photoshop when using Save for Web and the same settings?
THANKS! It is much more efficient for us to save our graphics from Illustrator, but we can't risk losing image quality in the process.

jethrodesign wrote
Yeah, I see that as long as the image has a resolution of 72dpi, it does come in at 100% of size. ..
For what you want to achieve you are right, sort of, but your statement is wrong.
Images are always placed at 100% size as indicated in the info when you double click the links in the Links palette. However you have to understand what size means here. If the image has metadata containing dimensional information then that is the size in Illustrator. For example if the metadata says 5 x 5 inches it will be placed as 100% with that size according to the Illustrator's rulers regardless of what the pixel resolution of the linked image is - it can be 5 or 5000 pixels per inch. If the images don't have metadata describing the dimensions then Illustrator assumes that 72 pixels are 1 inch and will place the image with that size at 100% scale. For example if the image is with 720 x 720 pixels, Illustrator will show it as 10 x 10 inches at 100% scale.
With work for the web you are most interested in the pixel size of the images and objects. Change the units in File > Document Setup to Pixels. But have in mind that these are 72 pixels occupying one inch on the ruler in Illustrator and not the pixel resolution of the linked images. So, the Transform palette showing the selected images or objects with pixel dimensions will matter if you save for the web or export to a raster image file format where you can specify the pixel dimensions of the image. The pixel dimensions in Illustrator will not matter at all if you print the illustrator file in which case the resolution of the linked images will be used - not the pixel space they occupy in Illustrator. But for the Web all that matters is the pixel dimensions in Illustrator. So if you want the ppi (pixels per inch) in Illustrator to match the actual ppi resolutions of the placed images (links), you have to save all images from Photoshop as 72 ppi or remove their metadata. This will ensure that no resampling occurs when you save images at 100% scale from illustrator for the web .
In Photoshop you can use its automatd batch processing features to change quickly the ppi of multiple images.
As for the resampling of the scaled images I believe Illustrator and Photoshop use the same algorithms
Message was edited by: emil emil for clarity and fixing spelling

TV@nywhere Master problems

I recently purchased TV@nywhere Master to use on my Dell Dimension 4550 which runs WinXP, and would like help with the following issues:
•   The signal for the TV card is provided by an antenna however, it is not strong enough to reach the tuner’s threshold, so none of my channels show as available in SETUP. I have already downloaded and installed the three latest driver versions from the MSI website. Do you have any suggestions as to how I can remedy this situation? The same antenna provides the signal to our two TVs, and our reception is perfect.
•   I have twice attempted to register this card on your website, and have been told both times that my sessions, which took about a minute, had timed out! Can you fix this, please?
•   The radio comes on unbidden whenever I start my computer, and after it comes out of standby mode.

I have a TV@nywhere master and I live in the UK.
I do not have any problems with tuning the stations with MSIPVS. All 4 main channels work fine, it also tuned in to some weaker signals. The only terrestrial channel I can not get is channel 5 but that is because they is no channel 5 by aerial in my area.
You could try fine tuning the channel that BBC2 is on, it may help, how to do it is in the manual.
The drivers on MSI web site are not for the master (MS-8606) version they are for the original TV@nywhere and the TV@nywhere Master drivers are the same version number as the one on the website but have probably been tweaked to accommodate the new Microtune MT2050 tuner.
The only gripe I have about the MS-8606 is the drivers for the tuner. They do work BUT if you want to use any other software that works with the new CX2883 and MT2050 chips, you have to run MSIPVS first to get the tuner to work. The display within MSIPVS also leaves a lot to be desired especially after using Dscaler (no tuner - video-in only). Video-in is not a problem and works with most well know freeware/shareware software. The capture quality (which is my main concern) is excellent when using the higher setting. I have captured some footage of an holiday video that was transfered to an very high quality VHS tape nearly 12 years ago, and converted it to an SVCD. The quality of the end results is as good as the original VHS tape. I have also capture from the Tuner in DVD quality and it is almost undistinguishable from a real DVD`s play back and certainly better than some cheapo DVDs.
As the Tuner and encode/decoding chips are very new (product only released 3-4 weeks ago) support and new drivers will take time to appear, BUT even without the support etc. I can still see the quality that this card as to offer.

[TV@Master] TV@nywhere master and DScaler 4.1.11

hi there,
over the weekend i thought i would try out a program that claims to be able to run my TV@nywhere master. that program is DScaler 4.1.11
The program says it supports the CX2388x chipset so i thought i would play it safe and uninstalled MSIPVS and drivers and start with a cold boot, the program installed without problems, auto detecting my card, and starting up just fine. once running i had video but could not get sound, after playing with it for awhile i still could not get sound so i decided to uninstall the program and reinstall MSIPVS and drivers. I did this the same as i did before, uninstalled, powered off, powered on, shut down anything running in the background, reinstalled drivers from the cd, reinstalled MSIPVS and radio, after install, rebooted, then set up MSIPVS as i had done before (before DScaler everything worked just fine including the remote) when i had the program set up i noticed i had no sound so i checked my settings (nothing different than before), checked the device manager to make sure windows knew the card was there and no conflicts or problems and found nothing out of sorts. at this point i began to worry so i uninstalled and reinstalled with the same results, i also tried the beta drivers and the newer MSIPVS with the same results, video with no sound (when you turn the volume way up you can hear a crackling sound) at this point i was getting pretty so i spent the next few hours trying to find out what had happened. i posted on there site asking for help but no response so far.
from what i've read on there forum an early version of DScaler trashes the EPROM on the TV@nywhere master (i hope this is not the problem!) but that issue was supposed to be fixed with later versions of the program.
I am at my wits end at this point. Not sure what to try next except filling the card in the circular file
can anyone give me some ideas on what to do? does MSI have a utillity availible to fix things like this?
one thing is for sure DScaler will never see any rig i build from now on!

IT LIVES AGAIN!!!!!!!!
Hi there!
I just wanted to post an update! i got my card working again with much better results than before!! Stu you should see the picture i get and hear the sound quality!!
alright! i'll write this down before i forget what i did. first thing i did was to uninstall MSI drivers and MSIPVS and Radio, then i downloaded DScaler 4.1.8 and the reflasher utility, then i installed DScaler, then i unpacked the reflasher to DScalers program folder and ran the tool, after that i uninstalled DScaler and powered off my rig, next i powered up and after closing anything running in the background i installed the drivers Stu posted then i powered down again. after powering up and closing everything i installed MSIPVS from the original CD that came with the card and the radio that Stu posted, powered down again, restarted and set up MSIPVS great vidio but no sound then i started looking for a work around, i decided to run composite cables from my dish setup. vidieo to the tuner and audio to the sound card with the spliter that came with the card. got picture but no sound then i started checking other things, "line in" is in my volume control and wasn't muted so i opened up my "sound manager" (my board has the Realtec ALC850 chipset) and started messing around with the settings there, after going thru 2 or 3 different configurations i let it auto detect and sudenly i got sound!! (i tried auto detect first with no results) so at this point i thought i might push my luck, removed the composite cables and hooked the cable back up then restarted MSIPVS, went to setup and set it up choosing cable and line in, i ran the channel search and got vidio and sound!!!!!!
i'm not sure what happened because before DScaler everything worked fine (sound and video not as good as i wanted) after all this i get a great picture and great sound!! no noise in either!!
so far so good! now that's behind me i won't be messing with alternative programs and the TV@nywhere master again!!
i really hope this helps someone else find a way to get there card back up and running!!

New BETA drivers for TV@nywhere Master

there was a thread somewhere before where someone had found some updated BETA drivers for the MSI TV@nywhere Master card but it seems to have gone now
i've been using them for a while now, and they're very stable, and the picture quality has improved somewhat
they say they are for the Master version of the card, but i think they may work on the Mega PC version, the only difference is the Master has a AM/FM tuner as well
anyone having stability probs in media center III or MSIPVS might want to try them out and see what happens...
i've uploaded them to my webspace, and you can find them here in ZIP format: http://www.ukshazam.com/downloads/8606Master_drv.zip
please note these are BETA drivers and as such MSI won't support them (as if they do anyway
i'll also post this in the Mega PC forum

As I recall when this BETA driver started flying around the forum, they WERE NOT official or unofficial MSI drivers. They were modified by a user from another forum and someone from this forum posted a link to them. THESE ARE IN NO WAY RELATED TO MSI DIRECTLY!! Someone reversed engineered the driver and probly thru extensive testing, via trial and error, was able to clean up the driver to give the result that most have had with them. This doesn't mean that everyone is going to have the same result, which is and has been the reality with any add-on card produced since PC's came out...compatibility issues DO still exist out there and not all systems are going to play in the sandbox well with all add-on cards that are manufactured...something to keep in mind when purchasing new systems...
Furthermore, it's been my experience that proprietary systems (The Pac-10 as I call them...IBM, Dell, Gateway, HP, Compaq, Sony, eMachine, etc...) have more issues than White Box systems when it comes to add-on compatibility. If you don't know this already, most of these companies DO NOT want you to purchase off the shelf items from Best Buy, CompUSA, etc...they want you to have to come back to them for upgrades and add-on devices, at higher than retail prices, and that's where they make the most profit. Sad reality, but true. Case in point: My first retail purchased PC was a Dell XPS Pentium 100, (my prior PC's were purchased from Michael Dell's garage) I wanted to upgrade it to a 4X CDROM drive and Dell had failed to include the snap in side rails for their new innovative case that was tool-less. So I called up Dell support and asked if these rails were available. The CS Rep told me that they were so I asked how much. She asked me if I had bought the upgraded device from Dell and I said no. Then she informed me that they wouldn't sell them to me ($6.00 US) because I hadn't purchased the upgrade device from them. Needless to say I was pissed. This was circa 1995-96.
Anyway, over the years of doing network consulting, I can't tell you the countless times that I've heard this type of thing on the phone from many of the above listed companies...yes, most have gotten better over the years (Like Dell including all of the rails needed inside the case nowadays) but overall they still have the same mindset and it's much more subtle when they design a motherboard that won't play in the sandbox well with retail bought components...*shrugs*
I got tired of playing their game after a while and started building my own systems. I found White Box isn't always better either but for the most part it's been a far cry easier than buying proprietary...
Just my 2 cents here for what it's worth...

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