Images in Bridge CC too bright

Why do my images show almost 2 EV too bright in Bridge CC after filing from PS CC, but have a perferct match when opend on Bridge CS6?

Why do my images show almost 2 EV too bright in Bridge CC after filing from PS CC, but have a perferct match when opend on Bridge CS6?
Either you have set Auto Tone adjustments set in Camera Raw preferences or have created a custom default ACR setting for this file type which is set to overexposed.

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Bridge CS6 too bright

My Bridge CS6 has suddenly become too bright. Any fixes?

Glad this solved your problem and no, if don't have trouble with views there is no need for purging cache at the moment.
Don't use NIK myself but I would choose for uninstall and reinstall the NIK plug ins.
Search for info before acting, here is a start:
https://support.google.com/nikcollection/answer/3000951
Save your custom presets by exporting them (always a good thing before updating or any other changes) and be sure to have the correct serial numbers and registration keys at hand. Then check for the latest versions on the NIK download site and install again.
And for the part of retrieving original filenames:
I never make a big deal out of filenames, I start with renaming on import using shot date yyyymmdd and a sequence number but check the option for the original filename being kept in exif. (you can set this as an option but I believe the original raw filename is always preserved, although not sure about this)
If you need to find (for what ever reason) this previous filename is somewhere in the XMP data of the file info. Either in advanced, Raw data etc.
And if this info is available there is always some one keen on writing scripts willing to help you with a script to reveal this info and use it as the new filename (there is a dedicated Bridge Scripting forum).
So in case of 6000 the longest wait would be to find some one to help you and then a bit time to install the script. The running of the script is a piece of cake and does the work for you, same as batch rename in Bridge can do.
Don't use LR myself that much, can't get used to the library structure and export of results. And prefer the customized UI of Bridge I have in combination with ACR and PS.
I also think (personal) that combining both LR and Bridge is not the best strategy…

Images in Bridge preview too red and saturated

I have used Adobe Bridge CS3 successfully for many years. Now all of a sudden all of my images in Preview appear very red and overly saturated. Can anyone tell me what has gone wrong?? thanks.

I did ALL those things and the problem remains.
Just to be sure about ALL, you followed the KB article with removing cache
and plist etc also?
Strangely images look okay in
the "content" area but overly saturated in preview.
Could you provide more detail about the file types you are using for this
(maybe even provide a screenshot to clarify better) and OSX you are using.
And are you using High Quality settings for preview?
Do you think this means my Bridge is cooked
No, I can't think of that, it must be a setting (or rather resetting)
problem and should be possible to solve to my opinion.
and i'll have to upgrade?
That's entirely up to you, I can only tell you that Adobe has a 3-version
upgrade policy, after this you need to buy a full version to keep on track.
But you surely benefit from CS5 Bridge that is much faster and more stable
then the CS3 edition

Edited images are looking way too bright in Lightroom

I've been using LR for years now, but sometime in the last few months a problem developed.
I import images from the camera... they look fine.
When I edit them in PS and save them, they look like crap.
If I open the crap-looking photos in photoshop, they look fine.
I'm using Prophoto colour space at all times. Here's an example of the problem.
It's a screenshot showing the same photo. On left it is open in Photoshop, On right it is open in Lightroom.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Brent

As to why the photo looks different in PSE than in Windows Picture And Fax Viewer, there are two possibilities:
1. Your display may have a color profile associated with it, either because you calibrated it with a calibrator or a profile was installed by the disk that came with your display. PSE is "color managed" and will adjust the colors of a photo based on the display's color profile, whereas Windows Picture And Fax Viewer will not. If you want fine control over accurate display of colors on your display, you'll need to calibrate it if you haven't already, and you should then only use color-managed programs like PSE to view your photos.
2. The photo you posted indicates that you've set your camera to use the Adobe RGB color space for JPEGs. The Organizer has a bug and doesn't display the thumbnails (even large thumbnails) of such photos correctly. The Organizer's Display > Full Screen (F11) and the Editor do display such photos correctly. I'm not sure if this particular photo will trigger the bug, because of the way Nikon in particular stores color profiles in JPEGs. You could see if you're getting hit by this bug by:
a. Open the photo in the Editor.
b. In the Organizer, make the photo's thumbnail as large as possible (not Full Screen view).
c. Adjust the zoom of the photo in th Editor to be about as large as the one in the Organizer.
d. Use Ctrl Tab to switch quickly between the two. If you see differences, you're encountering the bug.

Photoshop CS2: Saved Images Are Too Bright

Hi, I currently have a Photoshop CS2 problem that I need fixed.
When I go to save my files as a .PNG, .JPG, or any other file type (minus PSD), the images come out way too bright. But just by looking at the shortcut to the image, it looks exactly the same as it does in Photoshop. I'm currently having it at RGB Mode and 8 bit/channel settings. I've tried to mess around with the Color Management settings but with no luck. Can anyone help me out with this one?

bright where? outside of photoshop, like in a browser? you probably need to recalibrate your monitor, for a start.
bumping this for you in the meantime.

Images too bright in PSE, good in Windows Picture Viewer.

Hi:
My question is this, I shot some pictures of my son last weekend, in studio,
with a Nikon D2X camera, and a softbox lightbank mounted on a Balcar
flash head. I set the camera to RAW-JPEG Fine, ISO 100, and used a
Minolta flashmeter to measure the light from the strobe. The reading was
f/8 and 2/3. The images look good in the LCD camera display, but when
I see them in my PC display, they look way too bright in Photoshop Elements 7.0,
but they look fine in the Windows XP SP3 Picture Viewer.
Why is this?. If I adjust the contrast and brightness in PSE, then they look too dark
when I check them in Windows Picture Viewer...
Also, the highlights look a little burned out in both, PSE and Windows Picture Viewer,
but the problem looks more evident in PSE. This happens often when I shoot pictures
using strobe lights.
Can you help me with this two problems?.
I have attached one of the pictures so you can take a look at it.
Thanks.

As to why the photo looks different in PSE than in Windows Picture And Fax Viewer, there are two possibilities:
1. Your display may have a color profile associated with it, either because you calibrated it with a calibrator or a profile was installed by the disk that came with your display. PSE is "color managed" and will adjust the colors of a photo based on the display's color profile, whereas Windows Picture And Fax Viewer will not. If you want fine control over accurate display of colors on your display, you'll need to calibrate it if you haven't already, and you should then only use color-managed programs like PSE to view your photos.
2. The photo you posted indicates that you've set your camera to use the Adobe RGB color space for JPEGs. The Organizer has a bug and doesn't display the thumbnails (even large thumbnails) of such photos correctly. The Organizer's Display > Full Screen (F11) and the Editor do display such photos correctly. I'm not sure if this particular photo will trigger the bug, because of the way Nikon in particular stores color profiles in JPEGs. You could see if you're getting hit by this bug by:
a. Open the photo in the Editor.
b. In the Organizer, make the photo's thumbnail as large as possible (not Full Screen view).
c. Adjust the zoom of the photo in th Editor to be about as large as the one in the Organizer.
d. Use Ctrl Tab to switch quickly between the two. If you see differences, you're encountering the bug.

Images in Bridge have suddenly become much brighter than when I call them into Photoshop CS6.

Images in Bridge have suddenly become much brighter then when I call them into Photoshop CS6. My monitor is calbrated.

First go the Bridge / Camera Raw preferences.
Inhere under 'default image settings' are 4 options to put a checkmark in front.
If there is a checkmark in front of "apply auto tone adjustments' deselect it and try again.
Otherwise select one problem file and with right mouse click menu choose 'purge cache for selection'. If this works then go to menu tools / cache/ purge cache for folder.
If still in trouble could you provide more details about versions and OS and preferable a screenshot to clarify the problem more?

HP LaserJet 100 colorMFP M175nw scanned images are too bright

Hello!
Is there a way to change scanner's default image color correction as currently all of resulted scanned images (text documents, graphics, photos) are unnaturally too bright?
I had another HP Ink Jet printer also with scanner and all scanned images have good color correction there.
So I think there is a problem with my current one.
Does anyone knows how to fix it?
Thanks.

Hello, Futoji!
Sorry for big delay.
I did what you've told me and now I am wondering about what I see.
1) To scan documents I use both HP Scan and Apple Image Capture with default settings (no color correction).
Well it does not matter, though, because I see bright pictures right after scanning them.
2) I scan documents from flatbed (not feeder), well it is the same for feeder.
3) So, what I noticed was that printer scanned document and printed it almost exactly as it was only using hardware buttons on it.
But when I did scan using both programs above the same document, it was getting too bright to be real... When I printed such scanned image the result was accordingly bad.
So, what I think is that this scanner works differently for hardware buttons and software or applies some filters on the resulted image...
I found 2 similar posts to mine, they are describing the same problem for different printers, but unfortunately they didn't seem to be solved.
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Scanning-Faxing-and-Copying/HP-Laserjet-DNF-MFP-1536-scanner-washes-out...
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Scanning-Faxing-and-Copying/F380-problem-with-scanning-too-bright-image...

CL acquisition hangs when image gets too bright?

I'm having a bit of a strange problem and I can't be sure whether it's the camera or the board: basically, in any run mode, when the image gets too bright, the aquisition stops and I get a timeout in MAX.This is with a PCIe-1433 and a Point Grey Gazelle. Capping the camera and restarting the acquistion works fine. This happens any time the majority of the image gets to ~80% brightness.
Making things more confusing, this can sometimes be fixed by switching cables (the same model 5 meter NI cable, but just a different one); now, however, I have a couple of cameras that exhibit this with any cable and so I need to get it figured out. It certainly might be a camera issue or some combination and so I'm contacting PGR as well. Anybody have any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for any info!
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Thanks for the replies so far.
* If the brightness is overdriven with EITHER gain OR exposure OR aperture OR by shining a light in the camera, it can happen.
* It seems that choosing different cables or a different camera can change the amount of overdrive required to do this, but it can always be forced.
* If I clip the acquisition window and overdrive outside the window, still happens. If I clip the ROI on-camera and overdrive outside that, does not happen.
* Strangely, in the NI camera file generator, a "Snap" will always succeed, no matter how bright. The "Grab" will fail with a timeout if the image starts too bright.
* Bit of a breakthrough. The gradient test pattern (which contains 16384 of each grey level) works fine no matter what I do with the physical camera. The pseudo-random pattern (Snap attached) causes this failure.
* In 2-tap mode (which is a no go for frame rate, but I checked for troubleshooting) I can see the pseudorandom pattern with no problems, but overdrive still causes the initial issue.
Unless there's something really weird happening, this makes me think that the problem, such as it is, lies with the board. Something to do with how it is detecting blanking, or the end of the frame, is being fooled by the pattern?
Thanks so much for the test pattern tip, BlueCheese, I still down have a fix but I know where to direct my attention now.
Attachments:
psuedo.png ‏281 KB

Nikon D300s images too bright and interlaced.

So this is my first time shooting and editing video and I'm getting some weird errors.
I'm running Windows 7, and when I view the video files after downloading them from the card, the whites all seem too bright and blown out, no matter which media player I use. When I import the videos into Premiere CS5, the whites are not so blown out and there's detail.
BUT when I'm done editing and save the file as a HD H.264 720p 24fps file, the whites are again blown out AND there's obvious interlacing.
How do I get my whites to not be blown out, and how do I get the output to be deinterlaced?

You've told others on this forum to use professional monitors.
Not everyone has access to a professional monitor. I will never have access to a professional monitor. Not everyone is a video professional and not everyone cares to be one. I just want a video that looks good on YouTube. A professional monitor is not an option.
All I know is that on the same monitor, when playing the originals and the final exported file the whites look noticably more blown out than they do when previewed within Premiere.
The D300s only shoots in progressive, but when I export from Premiere (making sure Progressive is selected) the video looks interlaced.

PRINTER DISPLAY SCREEN ALMOST COMPLETELY WHITE (TOO BRIGHT/FADED/?)

I cannot read the images on my printer’s display (Product HP Officejet Pro 8600 e-all-in-one printer - N911a). The images are there, but barely discernible. I can't put my finger on whether the screen is too bright or too faint, or the images are too light. The display is NOT blank or black (and the HP Troubleshooting solutions to correct those problems have not corrected my problem, ie Hard Power Reset, updated firmware, and adjusted brightness setting), just too bright or too faint. Even with the screen brightness on the darkest setting, I still cannot make out the images. Interestingly enough, at the end of the day yesterday, the screen self-corrected somehow, and was back to a readable display. However, it reverted back to the problem overnight.

Hi busymom51 & otcheryl,
I understand that your issue is not the same as the title of the troubleshooting guide listed above: The Touchscreen Does Not Respond, however the troubleshooting steps are the recommended steps to attempt the resolution. If you followed the steps and the issue is not resolved, try again to update the firmware.
If your 8600 is the N911a, try this firmware update: HP Officejet Pro 8600 N911a Firmware. The printer will need to be connected to a Windows computer via USB for the firmware update.
If the 8600 is the N911g or N911n, use this update: HP Officejet Pro 8600 N911g_n Firmware. The printer will need to be connected to a Windows computer via USB for the firmware update.
If the firmware update does not help the dim display, contacting HP's Technical Support to see about further options for you would be the best option.
If you are calling within North America, the number is 1-800-474-6836 and for all other regions, click here.
JERENDS
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" to the left of the reply button to say “Thanks” for helping!

Soft images in Bridge/ PS CS4

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone here who uses PS CS4 & Bridge can help me with an issue that has been bugging me for a while. I am at the point where I am considering selling my gear and reinvesting in something else, both in terms of software and hardware.
I shoot with a Sony A700 and a number of lenses (nifty fifty, sigma 24-70 DG HSM, Tamron 90mm 2.8) and have noticed that no matter what I shoot the images look a lot bright, softer and fuzzy when i get them onto the PC (even considering that the pc screen is so much bigger than the a700's screen).
I have noticed that when I view the images in Bridge, there is a short period of time before bridge has loaded all the images that the image thumbnails themselves appear nice and sharp (as i see them on the cameras screen), then a split second later they are changed so that they all look brighter and a lot softer. If I "purge cache for selection" then the thumbnail appears nice and sharp again. Then when I open the image - which takes me to ACR in photoshop the nasty processing is reapplied.
Is bridge applying some kind of processing or profile to all the images before i even get round to processing them myself? It is ruining my pictures and I am at my wits end with it.When the images are opened in ACR the brightness has been ramped up (although i cant remember the exact settings that are listed as i am at work and my pc is at home), and changing the settings to "As shot" makes no difference at all.
What am I missing? What settings are being applied by the software (this also happens when i load the images straight from CS4 and cut out Bridge altogether) that makes the images look so much worse than they should? I'm fed up with the images loading all soft and a fair bit brighter than they should be. Trying to manually get the images back to where they should be in terms of clarity and brightness/ contrast has so far proved to be impossible, for me at least. And besides, I shouldnt need to be doing this in the first place!
I should also note that I am obviously talking about RAW images and not JPEGS!
Look forward to any suggestions as to what is going on??!

What you are seeing here is the processing, or lack of processing, of the Raw image. Raw is just that it is unprocessed. The image you see on the camera and for a brief instant in Bridge is the jpeg image (embedded thumbnail) the camera generates.
The is a lot of stuff in ACR that could affect this, and I am no expert. I recommend you copy and post this question in the camera raw forum. http://forums.adobe.com/community/cameraraw?view=discussions
When you get a concise answer that gets you sharp images please post it here so others that come across this thread can benefit.
Message was edited by: Curt Y Shooting Raw is not for everybody as it does take more effort to process than a jpeg. Just depends on the subject matter, what you want to do with final picture, and how much you like to tinker with the image. If you find you like the pictures as shot, then use Raw only for tricky exposure shots that might require more manipulation to get a good image.

Images on imac display too sharp/detailed

I just got my first imac and I've been learing the ins and outs. One thing that bothers me though is that when I'm visiting many web pages I find that images, thumbnails, movie clips, etc. are rendered with so much detail they tend to look distorted. I've been searching for a way to dial down the sharpness overall and I can't seem to make it happen. All I've been able to find are the display settings which jump from 1440x900 (which I'm using now) to 1152x720 (which is muddy and ugly). I enjoy the sharpness and clarity of my monitor when it comes to viewing text but for film clips and jpegs I prefer a softer focus.
Anyone else have this concern? Is there a way to fix it?
17" imac 2GHz intel Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Could adjusting the brightness and other settings, perhaps making a
custom profile in displays, changing contrast, etc could help.
The only other mention of displays being too bright and/or clear was
in reference to the new 24" iMac Intel® computer, and some posters
in a forum stated ideas, here: Decrease Brightness Further?
On my older iMacG4 1.25GHz 17" USB 2.0 I chose to adjust down the
brightness (keyboard buttons F14 - F15) to save the display backlight
from premature failure; even while having AppleCare coverage in effect.
To run an LCD or some VGAs too bright can be hard on your eyes when
sitting close and using the computer for longer periods of time.
Hope you find a happy medium and enjoy your new iMac!

Monitor too bright

Hi,
I'm re-purposing a quad core 2.8Ghz Mac Pro with Mac OS 10.6.8.
I'm having a problem in that the monitor/screen image is too bright, even with the monitor controls set to minimum.
When I use the monito calibrator in System Prefs, the black/grey/white oval graphic is very very very light and washed out and there's no way I can adjust the monitor to get the black bit black.
This monitors (2 of them) worked perfectly on the G5 it came from, black was black white was paper-white and it worked well for photo editing - printed results were a good match with the image on the monitors. However when I plug them into this MacPro they're virtually unusable.
Window borders, furniture (buttons, tabs etc) and the desktop (Mac OS bits???) seem fine - it's just the inner part of windows (the bit controlled by the application rather than the Mac OS???) that is too biright and wahsed out.
It's as if the graphics card is misbehaving. Is there a way to "reset" the graphics card?
Note; I'm not sure if this actually has anything to do with it - I noticed this happening when I installed Illustrator CS2 (yes, I know, its old) and the installed asked permission to install Rosetta. It may be coicidence that I just noticed it at this stage or it may be the cause. How do I temorarily remove or disable Rosetta?
Both monitors can't suddently have become faulty, so I'm doscounting an issue with the monitors.
Mac OS 10.6.8, Quad 2.8 GHz Mac Pro
Monitors are connected with digital cables direct to the digi ports (no VGA converters)
Many thanks,
G.

Many thanks to both responders. Various points for both:
The graphics card is ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT.
The OS is a fresh install on a newly reformatted main drive. The old OS is on the secon'd drive but has been moved into a separate folder called "Old System".
Apps are all new/clean installs from original disks, then updates applied.
It seems implausible that the drive partitioning system is affecting the video output, is this likely to be the problem?
I know CS2 is old, but I don't have a choice and CS2 was running OK on the PPC Mac and these 2 monitors.
The problem is always present whether I have CS components running or not. Quark 8 is too bright, as is Preview and all other apps.
Does the graphics card have a non-volatile memory for settings? What if it has previously been config'd badly; can it be reset?
Can I uninstall Rosetta to see if this is the issue?
Thnaks again, both.
G.

I have CS6 and I just got a new Leica D-LUX and can not view my RAW (.RWL) images in Bridge what do I do? I already tried updating Bridge from the Help menu.

I have CS6 and I just got a new Leica D-LUX and can not view my RAW (.RWL) images in Bridge what do I do? I already tried updating Bridge from the Help menu.

Did you use the Migration Assistant to help set up the new iMac using some of the files in the older PC? Some likely won't mean much, unless you have applications that can use or convert them. There's also a way to use the software Time Machine to import data files from an external or another computer, so you may have used that, too.
Hopefully someone with experience in a similar issue will reply...
Good luck & happy computing!

Images in Bridge CC too bright

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