Images printing from D4s are bad...same calibration D3 is perfect...

I have an epson 3800 printer and have calibrated both printer and monitor then tried to print images shot at a graduation on my Nikon D4S. The print quality is awful, skin tones too dark and images looking nothing like what I see on my screen. I then pulled up an image shot with my Nikon D3 and printed that...perfect. What am I missing?? Have printed from both Lightroom, and Photoshop with same poor results from D4S and current calibration. D3...perfect. Running out of paper, ink and time. Suggestions?

What do you mean with "color space set to Adobe RGB"? You can not change LR's working color space. It is fixed to ProPhoto.
Important rules for printing:
- When selecting the correct profile for the printer/paper combination used in LR and let LR color-manage it is very important to have the color management in your printer driver turned off.
- To get what you see on screen, you need to calibtate your screen.

Similar Messages

HP D5460 printer. Colors are bad on photo paper.

HP D5460 printer. Colors are bad on photo paper,, OK on plain paper. New genuine HP cartridges. It used to work fine. Have tried aligning print head. Have tried "automatic" and "best" for print quality. Doesn't matter.
Vista 64 bit OS

Besides using genuine HP ink cartridges, check this document:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bpu03037&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en
007OHMSS
I was a support engineer for HP.
If the advice resolved the situation, please mark it as a solution. Thank you.

Canon Pixma Pro-100 printer ejects 3.8 in of a 4X6 paper and prints only 2.2 in of the image printing from Photoshop CS6, I'm sure I set everything correctly - what could I be missing?

Using Mac Pro running Snow Leopard (10.6.8) & editing & printing from Photoshop CS 6.
Have new Canon Pixma Pro-100 printer and set it up yesterday. First thing printed was a
document from MS Word (a letter) 8.5 X 11 plain paper - this came out OK. Next I fire up
Photoshop and open a 4 X 6 inch image to do a test print. I set it up in the print dialog as
4X6 paper, Canon's Pro Glossy paper profile, rear tray, standard print quality, Photoshop
manages the color. I load the paper in the rear tray close the covers and hit print. Now, when
it starts to print the printer moves about 3.8 inches of paper out of the printer and starts printing
on the remaining 2.2 inches then spits the paper out. It does this in Photoshop (any image it doesn't
matter), and it does it printing from Capture NX. I have been able to get it to print on the paper
correctly using Apple's Preview program but that that's not going to do me any good. I was on
the phone with Canon tech support for about 2 hours and they were completely puzzled suggesting
I would have to use Canon's printing apps instead to print - that doesn't do me any good either.
I want to be able to print from Photoshop. Any one every heard of this or experienced the same
problem? Thanks JamesD!

Hello again. I recognize that a print is good if you like it and bad if you don't, despite what others might say, but I will at least share my experiences. They might help you or others who are following this thread.
My monitor is calibrated with Spyder 3. Gamma 2.2, 6500K, 83 cd/m^2. Contrast at 50%; brightness about 52%. My monitor lets me choose blackness level - it defaults to 50%.
When I print the test image I linked to above, using Lightroom, with no adjustments, my technical output is as follows:
Middle step wedge shows twelve disticnt steps. Whitest step is color of unprinted paper.
It varies from paper to paper, but I can discerne at least the 252 step and on some papers 253 - telling me I have good highlight detail.
On the black side I discerne 8 or 10, nothing lower. (That sounds like what you are reporting).
Artistically I am very happy how my print looks - nice red strawberries, good flesh tones, etc.
One my monitor, the on-screen image is almost identical to the print. I am surprised that you can see the 2 wedge step on screen at a very similar brightness.
I also checked out this B&W test image:
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/bw_printing/bw-test-image-2.html
You are probably aware of this since you are printing with Print Studio Pro, but others may not be.
You can print a series of test images:
find the one that best suits your taste, enter the calibration values in PSP, and save them as a custom setting. Then, each time you want to print recall the setting.
You can do a similar thing in Lightroom using the printer driver and User Templates.
There would be some one-time trial and error to that approach.
John Hoffman
Conway, NH
1D Mark IV, Rebel T5i, Pixma PRO-100, MX472

? The prints from Elements are not as sharp as when printed from the card Why? help please

The prints from the memory card are much sharper than when printed from Adobe Elements Is this normal or is there a reason ? help please

ECol a écrit:
As far as I am aware the card is read by the computer as it is without any form of enhancement and sent to the computer and printed.
If I print from the Photo Gallery the prints are as sharp as above.
I would have expected printing from Photoshop to be the same.
No, that's not that simple. Printing means resizing (resampling) most of the time and depending on your printer type/printer driver, a default sharpening is generally applied.
By the way, more sharpening does not necessarily mean better quality. That's the advantage of being able to control both resizing and sharpening from the editing software. There has been many books written on the 'art' of sharpening.

Getting lousy Image Prints from a Epson Stylus P2200 Printer & IMac (Intel)

Ok here's the health warning - I'm a recent Windows to Mac convert - so this may well be me - but here goes ...
I have an Epson Stylus P2200 Printer (which works great on Windows XP) and I am having trouble printing anything close to decent looking photos when its connected to the IMac. I've tried with both Aperture & Photoshop Elements - same problem/outcome. The photos come out in low resolution & v. poor color quality.
I'm using the Stylus Photo 2200 (FW) driver that came standard with the IMAC - but it has very limited features compared to Windows - I have selected a ICC profile (downloaded from Epson) that matches the paper I am using.
I suspect its me - but can anyone shed any light on where I'm going wrong?
Does anyone have any experience of this driver - is it me? or is there something I'm missing?
Thanks
Chris
IMac (Intel) Mac OS X (10.4.6) 1.5GB RAM

I have two Epson printers, a 2200 and it's working fine with my MacBook Pro. Before you fiddle around with the Color Management, make sure your printer is in good working order and the latest Intel drivers are installed.
Banding is not normal printer behavior. You mentioned that you're using a scan of a MacBeth color checker chart. You didn't say how the scan was made, but I'm assuming you know for sure that the banding is not in the image. On my 2200 I might get bad color if I don't use the correct profiles but I've never had banding problems unless the print heads need cleaning.
Here are my suggestions:
1. Don't use the drivers bundled with Mac OS X. Download the latest ones from support.epson.com. If you haven't checked recently, check and download them again. The latest driver posted is 3.0aAs dated June 15, 2006.
2. Epson's instructions with the latest 2200 driver is to do a "Reset Printing System" first, then restart your Mac before installing the driver and adding the new print queue.
3. When adding the printer with the Printer Setup Utility, make sure you're adding the Stylus Photo 2200 that appears under the Epson USB or Epson FireWire category depending on whether the 2200 is connected to your iMac with FireWire or USB. Note that unlike the old PPC 2200 driver which has separate "printers" for Borderless and Minimize Margins, Roll Paper and Sheetfeed, the new driver installs only one printer. Roll paper and borderless printing options are now handled in the Page Setup dialog like the R-series printer drivers. (Unfortunately, this causes incompatibilities in a mixed PPC and Intel printer sharing environment).
4. Run the Epson Printer Utility and use it to check printer status and do a nozzle check. This will help check if the Mac is communicating with the printer.
Now you can start making your test prints. Most likely, you'll be using the Print Settings and Color Management options in the Print dialog frequently. If the prints are coming out halfway decent or better, then you can be quite certain that the printing system is set up properly and now you can worry about the ICC profiles and color management.
Also, don't forget to download the better profiles for the 2200 from support.epson.com.
And, if you're managing color in Photoshop, turn OFF Color Management in the Print dialog and vice-versa. Otherwise, you're managing color twice!

Images imported from library are empty

Sorry, I did post this query a few days ago, and I did get a
response but unfortunately it did not help.
When I import my images to the library, I can see them fine
in the viewer window. However, when I drag the images to the stage
I get just an empty frame. I do not know what the problem is. I
have tried importing the same images into a stage on an older
version of Flash and there is no problem. I see the images fine.
So, what can be the problem with Flash CS3.
I was advised by this forum to check to make sure the
"outlines" option was turned off on that layer. I tried this, but I
had no luck. Interestingly though if I work in Flash 8 on the same
computer and then import the Flash 8 files to CS3 I can then see
images I import from the library, even after I have converted the
Flash 8 files to CS3 format. At the moment it is the only way I can
work with CS3. Does anyone have any advice on what to do?
Thanking you all,
Mary

Hi
There are several layers to this.
a. There are no HD-DVD - DVD is as standard only Standard Definition as on old CRT-TVs and can never be anything btter as iPhoto showes on Your Mac screen (5 to 10 times higher resolution)
b. One can get a result less than iDVD SD quality and down to really bad by
• Using iMovie'08 or 09 or 11 - as they discard every second line in the picture = 50% loss
• Using iMovie HD6 and NO Ken Burns effect AND "Share to iDVD" as this also results in disaster (heavely pixelated Bad bad pictures) - (as iMovie will render badly)
c. I build my SlideShow in
• iMovie HD6 - and no Ken Burns effect - BUT I close iMovie and import iMovie movie project (SlideShow) from within iDVD and now iDVD will render and so much better.
• FinalCut also delivers maximal quality over to iDVD
(from FCE/P - Export out as QuickTime .mov - NO QuickTime conversion (Important))
• iMovie'08 to 11 - I Share to Media Browser and as Large (not HD or other)
iMovie HD6/FinalCut + iDVD will give as high quality possibly to the resulting DVD.
I use
• Verbatim DVD-R
• set down burn speed to x4 (Plays better on many DVD-Players)
• Pro Quality encoding - I got the time and like the result
Yours Bengt W

A way to resize images so that all are the same size??

I've got a minor complaint about InDesign going all the way back to version 1.0. I have a bunch of square images that I want to drop into a layout and then resize so that they're all the same size, e.g 2 inches wide (constrained height) or something. However, all the tools I've tried to make this work only resize all the images by percent, so the ones that started out larger are still too large. Its frankly a huge source of stress, since there's no easy "Actions" palette as in Photoshop and I don't want to resort to real scripting. Can anyone tell me if there's a way to resize images absolutely in the layout?
Thanks in advance!

Change your first frame using the control panel's H and W fields. Then
select the rest of the frames and use the object>transform
again>transform sequence again individually command.
But you'd really be better off creating one and then using step and
repeat to get them all correct. Use the frame fitting options before
placing any graphics and you'll be good to go.
Bob

Values from event and from bindings are not same in valueChangeListener

Hi, in a valueChangeListener method of an af:selectOneChoice component I get
the new value from the event with:
valueChangeEvent.getNewValue()
and from bindings with:
JsfUtils.getExpressionValue("#{bindings.Parflag.inputValue}")
But the value from bindings is the previous value set in UI.
Why is this happening? In ADF Page lifecycle manual it is referenced that “update model values” face runs before “invoke application” so why the value in bindings is the previous value?
Any comment will be helpful,
Thanks.

That’s right.
Could anyone comment why a valueChangeListener is regarder as a
Validation Process and not an Application Action that commits business changes.
I mean if I need a validator I can put an f:validator to the component and that’s all.
The immediate attribute didn’t change the result, the method is run before bindings set.

Why is a color print from CS5 so different from the same image in CS4?

I have made prints from the same file using CS4 and CS5, and the prints from CS4 are showing what I think is good color. My monitor is calibrated, and I have always been quite happy with prints from CS4. When I make prints of the same files using CS5, the color is terrible compared to the CS4 print. I am using the same printer, same sRGB color space and all the settings in the "Print" dialog windows. I make sure the Color Handling box is set to "Photoshop Manages Colors" and I then go to the "Page Setup" box and make sure Color Settings is set to Off (No Color Adjustments). I am using a New MacPro Quad-Core Intel Xeon with 16 GB ram. I did notice that Apple Software Update did install Epson drivers after I installed CS5 Creative Suite 5 Design Premium. The color using CS5 looks the same starting in either 32 bit or in 64 bit. Another thing I notice is that printing on an Epson 2200 Stylus and using their 13x19 paper that the prints are being cropped to 5/8 inch into the full screen size of the images. I.E. The prints are losing 5/8 inch of what I see on the 30" Apple monitor. in both dimensions of the screen image. This cropping effect is showing now using CS4 and CS5. I have "Position" checked for Center Image, and Scale to Fit Media is also checked. I've been using PS since version 2 and have always been quite happy with the prints from my Epson printers and the prints from my Photo Lab, but the prints I am getting using CS5 are terrible. All the settings are the same in both the CS4 and CS5 "PRINT" windows.
HELP!!!! :-)

I have tried all of these things. I have checked and double-checked the print dialog. Sheet after sheet of paper goes by. Ink, at $40 per tank, is wasted. Results are still wrong. I followed your video. You use an Epson printer. I use an HP. Different print dialogs. different results. Whatever worked in previous PS versions does not work now. PS CS5 requires new settings to get the results that match what was determined by years of evolution and fine-tuning.
I set up all of those print dialog parameters but it required an adjustment layer or two to get the results I got using previous Photoshop. So I could do that with every image I printed with good results using previous versions. There is nothing out of gamut in these images, so I don't have unrealistic expectations about more saturation in the prints. Anyway, it's an 8-color printer that can handle a pretty wide gamut compared to a 4-color.
Wade, I know you are trying to help but this finger-wagging "error in your ways" and "you need to change your ways" stuff is patronizing. I did "change my ways" and try everything in your video. All was not well on the paper. I'm glad it worked out for you but it didn't for me. Accept it. I'm not some novice hobbyist still getting the hang of Photoshop. I've been using Photoshop since version 2. Adobe changed something in CS5. I haven't seen Chis Cox or any Adobe staffer jump into this discussion and say otherwise. Maybe there are no answers from the folks who should know the most about it. Maybe they're working on it.
It's not the first time Adobe has broken a tool. Anyone remember what happened to Outline Stroke in Illustrator CS2? It had previously made a path that could be edited by selecting points but after CS2, it was broken. Illustrator made a filled path that was nearly impossible to edit with all of the overlapping points. It was finally fixed in CS4. It's hard to understand how a useful tool that functioned properly in every version since it was introduced became an unusable mess. Maybe that's the case with PS CS5 and printing.
With 4,300+ posts in 14 months, maybe Wade has more time to tinker and tell us about it. I don't.
Or I could just print in CS4. At this point it's not that important to spend several days of testing to be able to say that CS5 can print my legacy stuff that was created and printed with various color profiles over a 12 year period. Maybe a more disciplined approach to color management would be a good way to work in the future when creating images, I'm dealing with tried-and-true printable images that were not done that way.
As long as Adobe doesn't make me give up CS4 to use CS5, I'll use it for printing.

Epson R2400 prints from Apterture and CS2 are VERY close.

Using the same NEF file that Frank donated, I printed an untouched(cropping only) print from Aperture to my Epson R2400 on premium lustre paper.
I took the white balance temp(4906 K) and tint(-14) from the HUD and applied these into Bridge(temp/tint for the same NEF), with default values for everything else default(exposure:0, shadows:5, brightness:40, contrast:+25, saturation:0, sharpening:25), and color space sRGBIEC61955-1, then opened it in CS2 and printed it.
NOTE: I am using PowerRIP-X V7.2 from iProof Systems for my print driver, it is installed like a printer and shows up as a printer on the selection list. IMHO, the $200 I spent on the R2400 RIP was money well spent. Between the RIP and the calibrated monitor, my color matching from screen to print is dead on, regardless of the paper type.. no more wasted prints and frustration. They also sell a RIP for the Epson 4800.
The prints from both are very, very, close. I have been shooting digital since 1997 and therefore do not own a scanner, so this is my visual review. Although I might shoot em tomorrow with my D2X on a tripod while lighting with a 47" Octabox... we'll see.
The CS2 print has a very slight bit more saturation of the skin tones(reddish) than Aperture. The shirt in the Aperture print is a very slight bit darker than the CS2 print.
If you look very closely and angle the light just right you can see a slight bit of the earlier mentioned blocking in the shadow on the subjects left shoulder.
I suspect the slight darkening of the shirt color may be due to the same reason for the aforementioned blocking in the shadow areas.
There is no appreciable difference in print quality.
I calibrate my 20" Cinema Display with a Spyder2PRO device and these slight differences are seen on screen as well, therefore on hardware calibrated displays the following screen capture should represent the differences..(I have no idea what this will look like on a windoze monitor!)
To see this full res in Safari, right click and select 'Open Image in New Window'

There seems to be two issues here. For output, using
the same output profile, Aperture and Photoshop
should be pretty close however, keep in mind that
unless you set Photoshop to use the Apple CMM (not
ACE) there could be a tiny bit of difference.
Hmmm.
I'm trying to remember what Bruce Fraser said about CMM choice the last time I attended on of his lectures. If I have it correctly he had reservations about all of them but the Adobe CMM was the best of the lot.
This was over a year ago so conditions may have changed and my memory may be faulty....
But I imagine that their might be negative consequences to using two different CMMs to process your data. Photoshop allows you a choice of CMM's, which is consistent with an application "designed from the ground up for professional photographers."
Aperture limits many choices, both basic and esoteric.
fp

My IPad2 will no longer print to my HP5510 photosmart. Both are on same network and both have current software updates. Tried everything and nothing works. What can I do?

My Ipad2 suddenly will not print to my hp photosmart 5510 printer. Both are on same network. Both have most current operating systems and updatees. I tried everything and can not get to work. It was fine two days ago and nothing has changed. What can I do to print again?

Have you tried rebooting your router and iPad?
Turn off your router for 30 seconds and on again.

Color Managed Printing from LR 1.3.1 Inverse of Proper PS CS3 10.0.1 Behavior

Please excuse the length and detail of this post - I'm just trying to be very clear...
Also, it would be helpful if anyone having definitive information about this topic could please email me directly in addition to replying to this forum topic, in order that I might know a response is available sooner (I am new to this forum, and may not check it regularly). My direct email address is [email protected].
Bottom Line: Color managed printing using my own custom-generated profiles from LR 1.3.1 to my Epson 7600 (on Intel-based Mac OS X 10.5.2, but saw the same behavior with 10.5.1) using the current Epson 7600 Intel/10.5x-compatible driver (3.09) is broken, and appears to be doing the exact opposite (inverse) of what I would expect and what PS CS3 does properly.
I am color management experienced, and have been using my custom-generated EPSON 7600 profiles with reliable soft proofing and printing success in PS (both CS2 and now CS3) for some time now. I know how the EPSON printer driver should be set relative to PS/LR print settings to indicate desired function. Images exported from LR to PS and printed from PS using "Photoshop Manages Color" and proper printer driver settings ("No Color Adjustment") print perfectly, so it isn't the Intel-based Mac, the OS, the driver, the profile, or me -- it is LR behaving badly.
The specific behavior is that printing from LR using "Managed by Printer" with the EPSON driver's Color Management setting set properly to "Colorsync" prints a reasonable-looking print, about what you would expect for canned profiles from the manufacturer, and in fact identical to the results obtained printing the same image from PS using "Printer Manages Color". So far so good. Switching to my specific custom profiles in LR and printing with the driver's CM setting set properly to "No Color Adjustment" yields results that are clearly whacked, for both LR settings of "Perceptual" and "Relative CM". Just for completeness and out of curiosity, I tried printing from LR using the same profile (once for "Perceptual" and once more for "Relative CM") with the EPSON driver's CM setting set IMPROPERLY to "Colorsync", and the results were much more in line with what you would expect - I would almost say it was "correct" output. This is why I used the phrase "inverse of proper behavior" in the subject line of this topic. Going one step further, trying this same set of improper settings in PS (PS print settings set to "Photoshop Manages Color" with either Perceptual or Rel CM selected, but using "Colorsync" rather than "No Color Adjustment" in the Color Management pane of the EPSON printer driver) yields whacked results as you would expect that look identical to the whacked results obtained from LR using "proper" settings.
I said above that the improper settings from LR yielded results that I would almost say were correct. "Almost" because the benchmark results rendered by PS using proper settings are slightly different - both "better" and closer to each other - than those rendered by LR using the improper settings. The diffs between the Perceptual and Rel CM prints from LR using improper settings showed more marked differences in tone/contrast/saturation than the diffs observed between the Perceptual and Rel CM prints from PS using proper settings - the image itself was in-gamut enough that diffs between Perceptual and Rel CM in the proper PS prints were quite subtle. Even though the improper LR prints were slightly inferior to the proper PS prints, the improper LR prints were still within tolerances of what you might expect, and still better (in terms of color matching) than the "Managed by Printer" print from LR. At first guess, I would attribute this (the improper LR prints being inferior to the proper PS prints) to the CMM being used by LR being different from (inferior to) the CMM I have selected for use in PS (that being "Adobe (ACE)"). I can live with the LR CMM being slightly different from that use

(Here's the 2nd half of my post...)
I said above that the improper settings from LR yielded results that I would almost say were correct. "Almost" because the benchmark results rendered by PS using proper settings are slightly different - both "better" and closer to each other - than those rendered by LR using the improper settings. The diffs between the Perceptual and Rel CM prints from LR using improper settings showed more marked differences in tone/contrast/saturation than the diffs observed between the Perceptual and Rel CM prints from PS using proper settings - the image itself was in-gamut enough that diffs between Perceptual and Rel CM in the proper PS prints were quite subtle. Even though the improper LR prints were slightly inferior to the proper PS prints, the improper LR prints were still within tolerances of what you might expect, and still better (in terms of color matching) than the "Managed by Printer" print from LR. At first guess, I would attribute this (the improper LR prints being inferior to the proper PS prints) to the CMM being used by LR being different from (inferior to) the CMM I have selected for use in PS (that being "Adobe (ACE)"). I can live with the LR CMM being slightly different from that used in PS - that is not the issue here. What is at issue is trying to determine why LR is clearly behaving differently than PS in this well-understood area of functionality, all other variables being the same. (And, incidentally, why am I not seeing other posts raising these same questions?)
My "workaround" is to use "Managed by Printer" for printing rough prints from LR and to do all other printing from PS, especially given the noted diffs in CMM performance between LR and PS and the fact that printing from PS also supports using Photokit Sharpener for high-quality prints. Still it would be nice to understand why this is happening in LR and to be able to print "decent" prints directly from LR when it seemed appropriate.
Any insights or suggestions will be very much appreciated. Please remember to reply to my direct email address ([email protected]) in addition to your public reply to this forum.
Thank you!
/eddie

Printing from InDesign and Photoshop - colors don't match

I'm printing the same CMYK image from Photoshop and from InDesign, to a HP desktop color printer. I'm using CS3, all the color settings are identical in both programs, but the printed colors don't match. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
(cross-posted in InDesign forum)

I have had the same problem: an image printed from PS differs from the same image printed from ID. However, I can't very well print as bitmap from ID since the image is part of a spread, including text. I have tried various combinations of settings. I made the PS image to 100% of the ID final size (in the layout). I tried various print dialogue settings (high transparency flattener, medium transparency flattener, color managed, not color managed, CMYK output and leave unchanged ... every combination I could think of). ID does something on printer output. My understanding (at least from CS2) was that ID output to printer uses a PDF format of some sort. I had the idea maybe the ID output did some sort of resampling or re-rendering of the image, but have not prooved that out. I did get some slight improvement in the ID output when the image in the ID layout was put in at 100% (whereas it had been 88% (the original image being bigger than the ID layout size). What I am getting now in CS3 is a clean looking photo in PS, but in ID, skin tones look somewhat blotchy and a bit more saturated. The PS image is better than ID, and while ID is not bad, why is it not as clean as PS? I can definitely see the difference between PS and ID output and know it will show on press, too. Any suggestions?

Very Frustrating! Printing from Preview or Photoshop - not happening again!

It's Christmas time, and I'm printing my home made cards... so I've done all the artwork, printed a test from Photoshop, and that was fine... make some changes, and now it won't print! Exported it all as a PDF, try printing from Preview, and the same thing happens.
Same thing happened a couple of weeks ago, but I can't remember how I fixed it! The job comes up in the printer spool, and then vanishes. Looking at the printer history log, it thinks it's printed it, but nothing. I can do a test page from the printer dialog, I can print from the web, but not from Photoshop or Preview
Help!
This is driving me nuts I tell you!
Cheers

First, do you have the original PSD to go back to (and if you don't, you now know to never kill off your source). Second, the JPG now has no fonts embedded, textures etc are irrelevant. So what is the resolution? Check out the rez of your printer and make sure the document's rez is no higher. Generally, anything more than 600dpi for home use is wasted, though some of the really high quality inkjets can go much higher. If your jpeg is very high rez (or if its dimensions are really big) resize it to be exactly the print size and try again.

HP Officejet Pro 8600 Plus, printing from web cuts everything off on right side

Hello,
I am having a problem with my HP Officejet Pro 8600 Plus cutting of everything ont he right-hand side of my pages when i print anything from the internet.
I am currently using Windows 7 and I am printing from Firefox.
I use Gmail and anything I print from there does the same thing. I see on several other posts here that they tell people to go to the File menu and choose preferences, but when printing from Gmail, I do not see anywhere that has a drop-down File menu to choose from. I also see several people saying to choose landscape orientation to print, however it still cuts off the right side when I choose the landscape option.
When I print from Gmail I am just hitting the printer icon on the upper right corner of the email itself (when you put your mouse over the icon it says "print all"), or I click on the drop-down menu under that icon and choose "print".
When I am trying to print some web pages, I can hit the download arrow to the right of the google search box and then print the downloaded page instead. This usually corrects the problem, but sometimes when I try to download a page, it says there is nothing to download.
Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated!!
Thank you,
Steel

Hi @steel13
Since the issue only occurs when you print from Firefox, I feel it would be most beneficial if you reach out to Mozilla.
You might first consider resetting Firefox print settings; Fix printing problems in Firefox.
Best of luck.
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Please click the Thumbs up icon below to thank me for responding.
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Please click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
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Images printing from D4s are bad...same calibration D3 is perfect...

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