Importing Photos and NOT including Metadata at the same time

Hello
I know you can export a photo and marking the check box to NOT INCLUDE metadata, but can you import the same way.
Thanks

Aperture does not allow to modify EXIF tags. You will need other tools for doing that. If you know hot to use the Terminal, you can modify EXIF tags with exiftool, see:
Modifying EXIF tags of Originals Using exiftool: camera, lens, gps

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How can I import NEF and JPEG in Aperture at the same time from my D200

I have my D200 and shoot in RAW and JPEG.
why is it when I import in the library that I only see the NEF files and not the JPEG.
I want to import both the extensions, because I shoot all my pictures in RAW and JPEG and I only want to store the 4 and 5 stars rated pictures in NEF and lower rating I want to store just as JPEG.
Thanks for any help, Frank

You assume that I speak and write Dutch.
My apologies to all of you who don't/cannot read/understand Dutch. The following is in Dutch and not Double Dutch.
It explains in some detail how to setup a workflow in Automator for separating RAW and JPEG files and importing the result in Aperture.
If someone wants the explanation in English: post a message.
Ga naar
http://www.completedigitalphotography.com/?p=408#more-408
en haal de Separate Jpeg's action.
NB. Ik ken alleen de Engelse namen van de mappen.
Plaats de Separate Jpeg's action hier
~/Library/Automator
Automator
Automator opstarten
Kies Bestand, Nieuw
Paneel Library: selecteer Finder
Paneel Action : selecteer een sleep "Separate Jpeg's" naar Workflow paneel
selecteer en sleep "Get Folder Contents" naar Workflow paneel (einde)
Paneel Library : selecteer Automator (PAS OP: Automator wordt geladen; weg ermee)
Paneel Automator: selecteer en sleep Import Photos naar Workflow paneel (einde)
Opslaan als Finder Plugin in de map
~/Library/Workflow/Applications/Workflows/
Gebruik
Selecteer een map in Finder die RAW and JPEG bevat.
Ctrl-Click of rechts klikken
In het context menu navigeer naar Automator
Selecteer Separate JPEG's
De rest gaat nu automatisch
Succes
Berend

Multiple-point Hardware And Software Failures in Two, Separate and Not-connected Computers At The Same Time...

A few days ago, I was working on a restoration of a 100-years-or-so-old Calculus book on one of my Linux based computers, while my other computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system was serving as Broadcast TV receiver with its USB HDTV tuner
in the afternoon. The weather in Los Angeles was summer-like in November, with clear skies and 90 degree Fahrenheit temperatures. All of a sudden, my Linux based computer halted in the middle of the processing it had performed hundreds of times
before in hotter days. It would not restart. The entire boot block of the disk seemed to have been garbled. This did not seem even feasible at all, so I decided to shut its power off for a while. It came back up after a while,
and everything looked normal. Then, it did the same thing again. I decided to open its cover and check on its multiple fans as there was nothing else that could go wrong.
I then noticed that the computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista Operating system which had been receiving the broadcast TV, was displaying a freshly-booted log-in screen. It had "Blue-screened" while I was working on the other computer
across the large room. This again did not seem any feasible as there had been utterly no connection between these two computers. Even the AC power line circuit was different. Furthermore, this computer had the most extensive air-cooling system
I had built to have it work through 107 degree Fahrenheit temperatures indoors. Anyway, I logged back in and started the broadcast TV reception again. Sure enough, after a while it "blue-screened" one more time...
I went back to the Linux-based computer and found all of its fans operating, but with somewhat hotter disk drives. The problem was that in hotter days, the same computer had cooler disk drives with nothing different. I concluded that somehow
the 80 mm fan mounted in the front side of the case, with its side with rotating blades clamped on the perforated part of the steel case serving as the fan grill, was starting up fine. But, as the time passed the spring-loaded rotating hub was slowly
drawn toward the perforated steel case by two means: The partial vacuum formed by the suction generated by the blades of the fan, and by the magnetic attraction of the rotating hub with electro-magnets in it to the partially magnetized, perforated steel casing.
The first effect was always there, so it was not the real cause, but once something else came along, it really helped the latter. The hub was slowly drawn to the perforated steel casing due to magnetic attraction, with the holes in the casing
inducing a huge air-drag on the hub blades as there was no by-pass around to supply the extra-air needed to reduce the partial vacuum. In addition, the rotating hub with the electro-magnets now was very close to the conducting metal surface and the induced
eddy-currents in the metal by the moving electro-magnets had added even more drag on the rotating hub, causing it to come nearly to a halt. The disk drive electronics was heating up and was causing DMA access faults which in turn caused the Linux kernel
to panic and halt.
Well, this was nearly unbelievable, but true... I had not brought any magnets into the room and I still do not know how the computer case got magnetized. It has been working at the same location for years. The solution was to move the fan
away from the perforated steel casing a little so that some air could come in through the gaps on the sides of the fan (hence supplying a by-pass), reducing the partial vacuum in front of the fan. This kept the rotating hub far enough away to prevent
the massive induced eddy-current drag from slowing the fan down to a halt. The computer now works perfectly with the very same fan as it has had been doing for years.
The real solution is to saw the perforated part of the steel casing in front of the fan away, and to replace it with a better fan grill. The best fan grill material I have found is the finely perforated, thin, black aluminum sheet that is usually
used as a car audio speaker grill. In fact, I use these in my Microsoft Windows Vista based computer. The fans are quieter, with more air flow. It also keeps dust away and you can brush the collected dust off easily.
The next problem was the halting of the computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system with a blue-screen. The fans in it could not be the cause of this, as it had already had the best improvements I could put in it, with even
externally powered fans that did not load the computer power supply. And, all of the fans were working well. In the meantime, the Microsoft November 2014 updates for the Microsoft Windows Vista came out, and as usual I told the computer to
load and to implement them. Sure enough, the computer again "blue-screened" in the middle of the update procedure.
That was somewhat too much, but there was nothing else I could do other than to debug it. I had not changed anything in the computer and its power supply, completely internally updated by myself a few years ago, was working perfectly. Whatever
was causing it was not in the hardware. It was not in the November 2014 software updates either as it "blue-screened" before those were announced. I brought the computer back up after several disk and other software checks and after the
completion of the updates, I gingerly turned the network modem on. I then sent the reports on the six failures (three "blue-screen" type failures and three "Anti-malware Executable" failures) to Microsoft with all of details
requested using the Microsoft Windows Vista problem reporting system. Within minutes, the Microsoft came up with a diagnosis that the USB driver code in the system had a serious bug. I had not changed this code in years. It suggested that
I should use the "Microsoft Fix-It" for this problem and it pointed to a link to download it. I did download it. It ran and the "blue-screen" problem just went away, as if it had never been there...
-- Yekta

I ordered the capacitors on Friday and they arrived on Monday, November 17, 2014. I removed the motherboard from the machine, by removing all PCI and AGP boards, drive and fan connectors and the computer power supply first. The motherboard then
simply unbolted from the case and came out with the CPU fan assembly still attached.
I wrapped the solder side of the motherboard with aluminum foil and set up a work place with the aluminum foil under the motherboard and myself electrically well grounded. Here came another surprise: There were four more capacitors of the same
kind just behind the CPU fan assembly and their tops were also deformed with one of them leaking the electrolyte inside from the the top. Luckily, I had ordered more than two capacitors to get the quantity discount and the lower rate of shipping.
I do use them in other circuits I occasionally build.
Technically, the only thing one needed to do was to unsolder the six old capacitors from the motherboard and to solder six new ones in in their place with the correct polarities. However, due to fact that the capacitors span the 3.3 V power plane and
the ground plane in the multi-layer motherboard, it is nearly impossible to unsolder these capacitors using regular, fine-tip soldering irons. The thick copper of the power and the ground planes carry the soldering iron heat away very fast, preventing
the solder from melting quickly. Continuous application of heat at this point will simply burn the internal insulating epoxy layers and cause shorts inside the motherboard which are impossible to fix in any reasonable amount of time.
The only reasonable way to remove these capacitors was to dismantle the capacitors from the top leaving their already soldered leads in place. The new capacitors were then tack soldered to these stubs using lead-free, hard solder. However, the
CPU fan assembly and the CPU itself had to be removed from the board to be able to work on these capacitors.
To dismantle the capacitors from the top, I first drilled small holes at the tops of the capacitors at the intersections of the indentations using the tip of a hobbyist's knife. I then used needle nosed pliers to peel back the triangular sections
of aluminum from the center at the tops to their bases at the top edges of the capacitors. Next, I removed the plastic layers covering the outside of the capacitors by scoring the plastic layers first from the bottom to the top using the tip of
the hobbyist's knife and peeling the plastic layers off starting at the cut. The following step was to cut the aluminum cans of the capacitors from the top to the bottom using the hobbyist's knife like a can opener. One could not use a saw like
tool here to accomplish the feat as the saws generated very fine metal chips which were very hard to remove and were certain to cause shorts in the densely populated mother board. The cans were then peeled off the rest of the capacitors starting from
the top at the cuts using needle nose pliers, revealing the spiral-wound metal-paper layers of the capacitors.
The wound layers of the capacitors were peeled off layer by layer by cutting into the layers from the top to the bottom, leaving only the two aluminum electrodes which were crimped and soldered to the leads of the capacitors. The picture below shows
the six capacitors with one of them dismantled (left) and with all of them dismantled (right):
The black disks below the aluminum electrodes are the rubber plugs covering the bottoms of the capacitors. The rubber plugs were then cut in half using the hobbyist's knife and removed using the needle nose pliers. It was not possible to
solder to the aluminum electrodes, so these were trimmed at the point they were crimped on the leads of the capacitors, leaving only the stubs of the capacitors' leads soldered to the motherboard.
The new capacitors with suitably trimmed leads were then soldered to these stubs with the correct polarities using lead-free, hard solder. The capacitors were lightly bonded together using a flexible glue to prevent them from moving. The picture
below shows the new capacitors as installed into the motherboard:
I then assembled everything back together and turned the computer on. The BIOS complained on the boot screen that the CPU was out of its socket and it needed to be reset. I set BIOS parameters correctly to their original values. The computer
came up and worked without any problems. I typed this message on my newly repaired computer running the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system.
By the way, the manufacturing date on the motherboard is 09/12/2002 and the CPU is a Socket-478, 2.4 GHz, Intel Pentium-4.
-- Yekta

Hi, dragging jpeg files into i-movie - the selection of jpegs is repeating certain photos and not featuring others, making the entire sequence impossible to view. PLEASE HELP!

Hi, I have been dragging jpeg files into i-movie all week without issue. Now all of a sudden, the selection of jpegs I'm dragging is repeating certain photos and not featuring others, making the entire sequence impossible to view.
Please help, this is urgent for a funeral tomorrow! It didnt happen with any of the other family tributes, they all worked fine.
Many thanks,
Ruth

It worked! Thank you! I finally just finished about 20 minutes ago! It took over 26 hours to complete the process you described, but I stuck with it and it worked. I am glad I didn't give up or "forget it" as some might have suggested. That would have set me back until tomorrow!
Ultimately, it turned out there were 45,910 jpgs created. No wonder it took so many hours to render/display them all. It ended up being about 10 hours before it seemed they were all rendered but the process between them displaying and being able to start really deleting them took a few hours because partly I was asleep and also partly it took forever to do anything. Any action as simple as selecting and right-clicking to Get Info, or emptying the trash, would take 20-30 minutes, a couple times longer. The clock stopped many times for 20-30 minutes at a time, a few times over 30 minutes, before catching back up. My cursor never froze which is what really kept me going, although it was a spinning beach ball for most of the time. I was never so relieved to see my regular cursor as opposed to seeing a spinning beach ball as I was early this morning after about 10 hours!
Once I was able to open a Finder window and select all 45,900 files (I had already deleted 10 in the previous couple hours during experimenting of trying to figure out what would work best), then right-click and select to move all the files to the trash, the process of moving them to the trash took 4.5 hours. Then deleting them from the trash took a couple minutes. There were 21.4 GB!!! No wonder the whole process took 26 hours!
mende1, thank you so much!

For the last month or so my icloud won't back up, it keeps telling me that there is too much storage and I need to delete some data. But I have deleted between 3-400 photos and it is still saying the same, can anyone please help

For the last month or so my icloud won't back up, it keeps telling me that there is too much storage and I need to delete some data. But I have deleted between 3-400 photos and it is still saying the same, can anyone please help

If they were deleted from your camera roll that should have resulted in a corresponding decrease in the estimated size of your next backup.
If it's still saying that you don't have enough storage to back up, read through this article: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4847. It provides some suggestions for reducing your iCloud storage, such as deleting unneeded email.
The other area to look at is your text messages. These are included in the backup. If you have lots of photos and videos attached to your messages, that can significantly increase the size of your backup. If that's the case, deleting these may make a big difference.

Ok Apple users...Is there a way to delete e-mails on my Mac and not have to delete the same e-mails on my iPhone, and iPad...and vise-versa. I have the Cloud, and thought that everything would sync all of the time. If you know of a setting I need to adjus

Ok Apple users...Is there a way to delete e-mails on my Mac and not have to delete the same e-mails on my iPhone, and iPad...and vise-versa. I have the Cloud, and thought that everything would sync all of the time. If you know of a setting I need to adjust, please let me know.

Are you referring to @mac.com, @me.com or @icloud.com emails? Or some other email providers emails?
If the former, it should do that automatically. If the latter, no. iCloud does not (nor is it supposed to) sync non-Apple provided emails.

I want to have different headers in Pages. I want to be able to set them and not have them be the same. For example I want ii then iii and so on...How do I do that?

I want to have different headers in Pages. I want to be able to set them and not have them be the same. For example I want ii then iii and so on...How do I do that?

Hi BelleDesign,
"Headers" is short for "Continuing Headers."
Use a Header when you want recurring information on a series of pages in your document.
If ii, iii, etc. are page numbers, you can place them in Headers using Insert > Page Number, then formatting the page number to lower case Roman numerals.
For more on Headers and Footers, see Chapter 3, Working with document parts in the Pages '09 User Guide, available for download via the Help menu in Pages. Discussion of Headers and Footers starts on Page 54.
Regards,
Barry

Microphone and what U hear can not be use at the same time at the same time

I am using Creative SB X-fi Xtreme Gamer (Creative Model Number: SB073A), sound card and have down loaded the latest drivers (version 2.18.15). What U hear is enabled, which in turned makes the microphone unavailable. If you reverse the settings, then what U hear is unavailable.
It appears that; microphone and "What U Hear" can't be enabled at the same time. If someone has an answer on how to correct the following settings to achieve; using the microphone and what U hear at the same time would be appreciated.
My OS is WIN 7x32

It was possible in Windows XP but due to windows 7 own audio mixer this does not work anymore.

Importing more than one Memory Card at the same time

As a productivity tool for professionnals, Lightroom should allow us to import from more than one source at the same time, as Aperture do. I have a multiple Flash Card reader, and we cannot import all of them at the same time in Lightroom...
I know that I can copy them in a folder, then importing them in LR... But this is time and space consuming if I want to convert the file in DNG : it's okay if photography is a hobby for you, but when it's your full time job, and you often import 4 16Gb Compact Flash Cards at the same time, you don't want to waste time to wait the copying process on your hard disk, and then wait for the "import and convert to DNG" process : this process require to duplicate the files : RAW to DNG on the same hard disk, instead of Direct copy and convert to DNG from your memory cards to your Hard Disk.

You can have multiple remotes for one ATV, and one remote for multiple ATVs.
In our house we have two iPhones and one iPod iPod Touch, all able to control the same ATV at the same time (much to the delight of my daughter who enjoys ousting my music choices for her own).
Why have iPod touch in each room? Its not a wired remote - its a mobile device. Think of a landline vs mobile telephone - landlines are one per room, mobiles are one per person - that's how an iPod is used, even as a remote - you take it with you.
Just like a mobile phone, you'd have one personalised iPod Touch or iPhone per person, not per ATV or room.

How can you listen to music and play a game at the same time?

How can you listen to music and play a game at the same time?
I am playing music, by starting the Crash Baandicoot Nitro Kart 3D game it shuts off the music playing. Is there a way around this?
It seems like this should be possible.
Message was edited by: RuthlessVengeance
Message was edited by: RuthlessVengeance

Select the music play list you want to listen to and start it playing. Go back to the home screen and start the app you want to use, music will stop. Press the home button two time quickly and it will bring up a simple control for controling the music. This works for me with all of the apps I have purchased including games. Just a note you can pull up the same music control if the iPod is a sleep and locked by pressing the button three times quickly.
Mike

TS3280 How can i enable both paired bluetooth and ios keyboard input at the same time?

How can i enable both paired bluetooth and ios keyboard input at the same time?
This is needed for the app im working on. Need some user input via keypad as well as scanner input via a paired bluetooth scanner.

You probably should not be using a keyboard bluetooth profile for a scanner, I am not a developer for apple so do not know the location for you to find out the correct profile you should be using for an input device that is not a keyboard. Sorry,
I am sure if you navigate the apple developer site you will probaly finmd what you're looking for.
https://developer.apple.com

Is there an issue with the hitachi hard drives in the MacBook Pro's ? Got a 15 inch and a 13 inch at the same time and both drives have failed in under two years. I have heard from a few other people with same issue.

Is there an issue with the hitachi hard drives in the MacBook Pro's ? Got a 15 inch and a 13 inch at the same time and both drives have failed in under two years. I have heard from a few other people with same issue. Other drive I have had have lasted at least 5 or more years.

there is a dylib you can put in the springboard if jailbroken but if not you have to find an apple store

Can I save and open an attachemnt at the same time?

I want to be able to open an email with an attachement or attachments and click on the save button for the attachment(s), designate the location (folder) where they are to be saved - but also tell Mail to save the attachments then open them up on the desktop. Two operations in one. If you understand my request you understand what you have to do now - two separate steps. Save. Then find the saved files and open them.
OR
Open the attachment from the email which then downloads the file to your designated "all-purpose" location (not the ultimate location you'd want to save it). Then once you've seen it, you do the save thing with the original mail attachment and then have to go back and delete the file from the designated all-purpose download location.
This latter problem of having to delete unedited downloads manually could be solved with an option in Mail preferences to automatically delete unedited downloads in the "all-purpose" location after that same attachment had been downloaded to another specific location on your hard drive. This option for deleting unedited downloads does not exist, however.
But even if this step-saver option existed in the preferences, you still would not be able to tell your Mac to save a particular Mail email attachment to a particular folder AND open that attachment at the same time in one command.
That's what I want.
Maybe I want both. Save and open together plus the ability to automatically delete unedited attachment downloads in the "all-purpose" download file after the same attachment has been downloaded to another specific location on your hard drive.

with IOS 6 yes you will be able to do that

Labview runs CANBus and DNP3 software model at the same time

I have an ordinary computer which communicates with several DSPs (CANBus communiation) through Compact Rio. The physical connection is that the DSPs' CANBuses are connected together and connected into Compact Rio, then the Compact Rio is connected with a router through Ethernet, at the same time, the computer also connects with the Router through Ethernet. Based on this physical architecture, the computer can run CANBus software model on Labview to communiate with Compact Rio and DSPs.
As I know, the communication between the computer and the Compact Rio is not real time, and the communication between Compact Rio and DSPs can be real time, can you tell me if I get the right point?
Now we have another device named RTDS (communicate with outside through Enternet based on DNP3), and want to add RTDS into our system. I am not sure about the way to conduct the communiation. The main question is that we need to run Labview to communicate with DSPs through CANBus and RTDS through DNP3 at the same time, is that possible?
I proposed two possible ways to conduct communication, bt not sure if it is possible.
1. I proposed that I connect RTDS with the Router through Ethernet, and then the computer communicates with RTDS through the Router based on DNP3 and also keeps the communication with DSPs through Router, Compact Rio, CANBus and then DSPs. I am wondering if this kind of communication is available for Labview.
2. The second possible way I proposed is that I connect the RTDS with Compat Rio (CRio keeps connecting with DSPs through CANBus) through Ethernet, and then the computer communicates with DSPs through Router, Compact Rio and CANBus, and the computer communicates with RTDS through Router, Compact Rio and Ethernet. Also, the computer needs to run Labview with CANBus sofeware model and DNP3 software model at the same time. I am also not sure if it is possible.
The diagram of the communication system is shown in the attachments.
Attachments:
Commnucation system diagram.pdf ‏118 KB

To use Mail from multiple devices, your Mail Server needs to be using IMAP protocol (iCloud Mail uses that).
IMAP keeps the Master copies on the Server, not on the Mac the way most default POP Mail servers do.
To keep one Master Calendar, accessible from all devices, you need a web-accessible place to keep the Master Calendar. iCloud can do that.
¿Do you see a trend developing here?

[WIN7] Enable Microphone and "What U Hear" at the same time?

Hey folks!
I am trying to enable both at the same time on my Windows 7 in order to record Battlefield 2 and my own voice at the same time.
Please do NOT start with "do this and that", I have tried everything for at least 1 year by now and the only way to make it work is to have microphone and "What U Hear" enabled. Apparently it is not possible. In order to activate one of both you have to make it "Default" record device but then the other device gets disabled. Trying to record the disabled device obviously ends up in silence.
What is the reason for that and how to enable BOTH devices at the same time?
I am using PAX Drivers which the maker always updates to the latest Creative Drivers. So I am up to date.
Thank you a lot in advance.

Thank you for your reply.
Well, yes, the microphone is activated. And if I put the microphone playback volume to 100 I can hear myself talk even with "What U Hear" as my default recotding device. But once battlefield 2 starts it uses the default recording device for the in-game voice over IP. If I select "what U hear" as the default device it will basically put the game sound into the VOIP...
What I tried was - set microphone as default device, launch BF2 so it registers the microphone as VOIP input, then alt tab out, select What U Hear as default device but it does not get activated! I only see a bar at the microphone.
What I want is to be able to have TWO volume bars, in What U Hear AND Microphone so I can use the microphone for BF2 and What U Hear as gameplay-sound for my recording device.
In Windows XP this was possible. In Windows 7 this is missing.
The problem here is that once a recording device (the Default one usually) is being used by a program it BLOCKS the other recording devices.

Importing Photos and NOT including Metadata at the same time

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