Improve detail in washed out faces

New here so I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this, but here goes.
I have some incredible concert footage from Madison Square Garden. I was in the front row and propped my video cam right against the speaker so there's no jittering and the sound is incredible. My problem is that the musician's face is washed out from the spotlight.
Is there any way to improve this so you can see her face? Contrast, shadows, lighting? Or is it like that permanently because that's what the camera recorded? Thanks in advance for the help.

littleurchin28 wrote:
.. Nikon D40 .. What can I do to maximize my image quality without making the pictures look like a painting (I shot without flash with a wide aperture and slow shutter speed)?
I'm using a D50 ..
'enhancing' stills is a endless topic.. as you mentioned: there's a non-defineded border between 'picture' and 'painting' ...
your (my...) Nikon allows in its setting to choose the 'format' of savings - jpeg or raw. raw files are the ones, which allow the most 'magic' in post-production. jpegs are highly compressed...
as a beginner, try the options in iPhoto: what I like to do is adding slight amounts of saturation, correct contrasts, and esp. these three 'sliders' under that 'values' offer superb otions..
http://www.apple.com/ilife/iphoto/#editing
.. when using a slow shutter speed, for shure there's no way to get rid of 'blurr' afterwards ..

Similar Messages

Lightroom's interpretation of camera raw data washes out colours

After I import images from my Canon 5D, they look different when I go into the develop module. I read the FAQ and I understand that this is caused by the difference between the stored thumbnail on the camera and the way lightroom interprets the raw image data.
The problem is, the tone and colour are always far superior in the camera thumbnail interpretation, and I spend considerable time on Lightroom to try and get the image back to how it originally looked on the camera thumbnail, usually unsucsessfully.
Is there a way I can get lightroom to match exactly the look of the previews stored with the raw file on the camera?
It is a big problem, because after lightroom interprets the data, skin tones look washed out and the colours are not as rich or natural looking.
I don't have this problem on other raw converters, and it is making me look for another software solution if I can't resolve the problem.
Help!

Well, my eyes must be doing some wonky things then... because in my experience its LR that is cheating me on the colors.
Yes... Canon many times oversaturates the colors... but I'm pretty sure that those red cherries I took a picture of were not pumpkin orange as LR shows them. ACR has some serious hue shift problems, yet not for everyone... it varies from camera model to camera model, and even within camera model from camera to camera.
The best we can do, since ACR isn't intelligent enough, is to fiddle with the calibration settings, and save that as the new default for the camera. (There are scripts that help do this if you have a Color-checker and CS2/CS3... but are of no help if you use only LR or Elements.)
Never expect the default settings in RAW (for ANY converter... Canon's included (with execption, perhaps of Zoombrowser)) to match the preview you see on the camera, or the out-of-camera jpeg. Adjustments will need to be made. Unfortunately in ACR, this means hours of messing the calibration sliders, much trial and error, and perhaps multiple presets to help with different lighting conditions.
That said... I too would like to see ACR improve in this area... but for the mean-time this is the best we can do.
edit: (I'm (slightly) exagerrating the extent of the shift above... but its VERY noticable... and can be very frustrating.
This site: http://www.photoactivity.com/Pagine/Articoli/023%20Calibratori%20al%20sole/Calibratori%20 al%20sole_en.asp explains in more detail than I understand some of the calibration scripts... and even has some screenshots of a color-checker comparing ACR defaults and various scripts to the color-checker. I'd guess the shifts I see are comparable to some of those shifts seen on that page.)

Costco and soft proofing show dull washed out image

OK, so I am trying to utilize my nearest costco to print some images from lightroom 5. I am getting back dull washed out prints.
Facts:
I shoot in RAW in manual mode
I am using sRGB when I do my post processing
I export to jpg for printing
I used the costco LR5 plugin from Alloyphoto to upload to Costco
I have installed the printer profiles from drycreek for the specific location/printer and have chosen the correct profile as I export
I made sure that I chose to have Costco NOT autocorrect the color
Even when I use LR5's soft proofing, I get the same result on my monitor
I checked the print I got back and it says that they did NOT autocorrect (taken with a grain of salt)
The machine they are using is a Noritsu QSS-A, so I know my profile is correct
I have attached a screen shot of what I am seeing.
Why am I seeing this on my soft proofing as well as my prints?
How can I solve this and get vibrant prints?
Any advice would be helpful.
Message was edited by: moviebuffking

moviebuffking wrote:
I have calibrated my monitor as good as I can get without specific hardware. I have 18 years experience calibrating monitors (via optical media and my eyes), so I know that mine is very close.
It is virtually impossible to "accurately" set the Luminance, Gamma, and Color temperature "by eye." This is most likely the cause of your prints not matching the screen image you see in LR. That being the monitor's Luminance (i.e. Brightness) level is too set to high.
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/colour_management/prints_too_dark.html
To see if this could be your problem I downloaded the posted screen shot and cropped out the 'Copy' image, which has your adjustments applied to it. Here are my results:
Click on image to see full-size
I needed to apply a full F stop (+1.0 EV) of Exposure correction to achieve a good midtone brightness level for the print image. You'll notice I also added -50 Highlights and +50 Shadows along with +25 Vibrance. I bet the image with my adjustments added looks way too bright on your uncalibrated monitor.
You have two (2) issues–Monitor Calibration and LR Basic Panel Control Adjustments
Monitior Calibration
I would highly recommend investing in a hardware monitor calibrator such as the X-Rite i1 Display and ColorMunki, or Datacolor Spyder models. If you tell me what make and model monitor you are using I can recommend specific calibrators.
Temporarily you can try adjusting the monitor "by eye" to get it closer to the desired 120cd/m2 Luminance, 2.2 Gamma, and 6500K Color Temperature using the test patterns at this site:
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
When the monitors Brightness and Contrast controls have been correctly set the screen image should look much closer to the prints you have recently made with the LR Soft Proof adjustments. So in fact you will be adjusting the monitor to make it look bad with the LR adjustments you applied. The proper monitor settings will make the Lagom test patterns look correct AND should make your bad Costco prints now match the screen image using you original LR settings.
After changing the monitor's Brightness and Contrast settings try readjusting a few of the image files you had printed and send them to Costco as check prints. Compare them again to your monitor's screen image. They should be much better!
LR Basic Panel Tone Control Adjustment
LR's PV2012 Tone controls can provide much improvement to your raw image Highlight and Shadow detail. Start with all of the Tone controls at their '0' default settings and adjust them from the top-down in the order shown below.
1. Set Exposure for the midtone brightness ignoring the highlight and shadow areas for now. Setting Exposure about +.5 EV higher than what looks correct for the midtones seems to work best with most images.
2. Leave Contrast at 0 for now. You’ll adjust this after the first pass.
3. Adjust Highlights so that blown out areas are recovered and “fine tonal detail” is revealed.
4. Adjust Shadows to reveal fine detail in dark areas. For most normal images simply setting -Shadows = +Highlights (Example -50 and +50) works very well.
5. The Whites control sets the white clipping point, which you can see by holding down the ALT key as you move the slider. Adjust it to the point where you see clipping just appear with the ALT key.
6. The Blacks control sets the black clipping point, which you can see by holding down the ALT key as you move the slider. Adjust it to the point where you see clipping just appear with the ALT key.
7. Now go back and adjust the Contrast control to establish the best midtone contrast.
8. Lastly touchup the Exposure control for the best midtone brightness.
9. If necessary “touch-up” the controls using the same top-down workflow.
moviebuffking wrote:
Am I correct in assuming that the soft proof (with a certain profile) is a "preview" of what that print will look like?
Soft Proof does two things. It shows you what the image's colors will look like in the target color space (i.e. printer profile). You can see what (if any) colors are "out of gamut" by clicking on the small icon in the upper-righthand corner of the Histogram. You can also see if any of the colors fall out of your monitor's gamut by clicking on the small icon in the upper-lefthand corner of the Histogram.
When you check 'Simulate Paper & Ink' the Soft Proof image's contrast and color saturation are changed to make it look closer to what the "reflective" print image will look like when held next to the monitor for comparison. Many people have difficulty using 'Simulate Paper & Ink' since it requires using precise light levels for viewing the print and a well calibrated monitor.
In summary my best suggestion is to purchase and use a good hardware monitor calibrator on a scheduled basis to insure you have an "accurate" screen image inside LR and other color managed applications like PS.

ICal 5.0 - washed out dates unreadable

The text in Lion iCal 5.0, mainly 'Month' and 'Year' views is so washed-out grey that I can't read it. As a partially sighted Mac user I usually find a little Zoom is all that is necessary, but this text is just too weak-washedout-gray for that to help.
How do I make the date text black - or at least bold? I know I could use Universal Access to set things system wide, but it is just the ugly new-and-improved iCal that is causing me difficulties.
Getting rid of the dirty brown top to the window would also improve the look of the app.

Our office is experiencing the same symptoms. ICAL is useless on our imac I5s due to background lines delineating days and weeks along with the labels being virtually unreadable. User input for events and to-dos are redable but useless since they simply appear on a white background. We have attempted to calibrate our displays without success. Universal access is equally without benefit. Becasue of the importance of calendaring, we are considering moving all of it to MS Office for MAC Outlook. Apple needs to either change the screen templates to black and white or provide contrast control within ical itself and/or allow the user to change the background color so that the template will be readable.
I should note that the same problem occurs on our older IMacs as well as our MacBook Pros, but not to the same degree. On these machines the ical grey lines and labels are barely readable, but still not useful.
Does anyone have any other thoughts about curing the problem. I would prefer to use ICAL but without resolution of the problem I will move to Outlook.

QT video washed out when uncomposited on MB Air (over-contrasty when not?)

Sorry about the funny title, but this is quite odd. I've noticed it with a couple of videos in QT player now -- both from Apple, one a HD trailer and one the video of the iPhone SDK event.
It happens on my MacBook Air, but not my 1.5Ghz PowerBook G4.
When I watch the video and nothing is over it (so it's full screen or in a frontmost window), it's washed out. The contrast is poor and the blacks are grey. But when anything overlaps it -- I move another window partially over the QT player one, or a drop-down menu overlaps it, or the dock overlaps the full-screen view -- the image gets a lot darker (it looks better to me but maybe you see less detail -- maybe the washy greys are right this is too much contrast?)
Anyway, it's odd. Can anyone explain? Thanks

what color is the render bar above these problem clips?
it may be that with these graphic overlays applied then you are seeing only a proxy or preview of the final effect and not a full render
if so, check your Sequence > Render settings and make sure to check the Preview and/or Proxy options
cheers
Andy

Safari 4 Color and Gamma STILL Washes Out -- NOT Solved 7/4/2009

OK, just bringing this back to the top:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2032159&start=0&tstart=0 is listed as 'Solved', but that was totally premature. The alleged fixes range from the usual repair permissions, trash Safari prefs, reboot, etc., but it's all temporary, at best.
A CLEAN install of the OS to a virgin partition, followed by permissions, repair, combo updater, apply all related Safari, repair permissions, delete, shutdown and reboot leaves you with the same issue as soon as you sleep displays, go to screen saver, use FUS, and come back in with Safari 4 already running, you will get the screen wash as further described here:
http://gallery.me.com/frederico/100070
Posted Elsewhere:
Gamma settings within Safari 4 windows since upgrade will "degrade" (read: darken and stratify) when scrolling the window contents, using either scroll wheel, arrow keys, or mouse on scroll bar. Text also becomes progressively fuzzy and its opacity decreases until the entire window is black.
Moving another application window in front, or minimizing and maximizing the errant window, moving or resizing it in any manner, or using the 'Force Repaint' command will restore the appearance immediately. I can capture screenshots of it, but cannot use your included screenshot command, as the mere act of dropping down the report slider forces repaint.
Quitting Safari, rebooting machine, or just logging out will "cure" the problem for a short time, but it returns fairly quickly. I do not believe I have any third party plugins causing the issue; I removed several and the problem still crept back; each user account, including a freshly created test account sees this error.
This can fairly regularly be triggered by sleeping the displays or entering locked screensaver, logging in, and going to several sites such as Daring Fireball, Mac OS X Hints, and anything displaying PNG and Flash combos.
Perhaps related: I updated to 10.5.7 at the same time, and when I restarted, noticed that the gamma profile on my center screen (of five LCDs) was severely washed out. Switching back and forth between any other color profile in Displays and back to my calibrated profile will cure the wash -- until I log out and back in. Each user account, including a freshly created test account sees this error.
Have also clean installed OS X 10.5.4 and updated to a10.5.7 using combo updater; then installed and updated Safari 4. Problem follows Main screen (menubar host) on each of five LCD displays on three ATi video cards on Mac Pro Quad 2008.
Getting ready to restore back to Safari 3 and 10.5.6 from clone; this behavior is becoming tedious.
Screenshots and additional details on request; <Edited by Host>
http://gallery.me.com/frederico/100070
More info and more users seeing the same thing here
http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=2009062403534417
http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=2009062403534417#comments
Hardware Overview:
Model Name: Mac Pro
Model Identifier: MacPro3,1
Processor Name: Quad-Core Intel Xeon
Processor Speed: 2.8 GHz
Number Of Processors: 2
Total Number Of Cores: 8
L2 Cache (per processor): 12 MB
Memory: 6 GB
Bus Speed: 1.6 GHz
Boot ROM Version: MP31.006C.B05
System Version: Mac OS X 10.5.7 (9J61)
Kernel Version: Darwin 9.7.0
Boot Volume: system
Boot Mode: Normal
ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT:
Chipset Model: ATI Radeon HD 2600
Type: Display
Bus: PCIe
Slot: Slot-1
PCIe Lane Width: x16
VRAM (Total): 256 MB
Vendor: ATI (0x1002)
Device ID: 0x9588
Revision ID: 0x0000
ROM Revision: 113-B1480A-252
EFI Driver Version: 01.00.252
Displays:
CMC 22 W:
Resolution: 1680 x 1050 @ 60 Hz
Depth: 32-Bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Rotation: Supported
CMC 22 W:
Resolution: 1680 x 1050 @ 60 Hz
Depth: 32-Bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Main Display: Yes
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Rotation: Supported
ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT:
Chipset Model: ATI Radeon HD 2600
Type: Display
Bus: PCIe
Slot: Slot-2
PCIe Lane Width: x16
VRAM (Total): 256 MB
Vendor: ATI (0x1002)
Device ID: 0x9588
Revision ID: 0x0000
ROM Revision: 113-B1480A-252
EFI Driver Version: 01.00.252
Displays:
CMC 22 W:
Resolution: 1680 x 1050 @ 60 Hz
Depth: 32-Bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Rotation: Supported
CMC 22 W:
Resolution: 1680 x 1050 @ 60 Hz
Depth: 32-Bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Main Display: Yes
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Rotation: Supported
ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT:
Chipset Model: ATI Radeon HD 2600
Type: Display
Bus: PCIe
Slot: Slot-3
PCIe Lane Width: x16
VRAM (Total): 256 MB
Vendor: ATI (0x1002)
Device ID: 0x9588
Revision ID: 0x0000
ROM Revision: 113-B1480A-252
EFI Driver Version: 01.00.252
Displays:
CMC 19AW:
Resolution: 1440 x 900 @ 60 Hz
Depth: 32-Bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Rotation: Supported
Display Connector:
Status: No Display Connected

Now THAT is interesting. I typically do not have two Safari windows open and active on the same screen; I usually have three or more Safari windows open, but each is on its own screen, using tabs within each.
I think it's fascinating to see that the content is only affected in one window on the same page.
Can you elaborate as to your trigger? Is it FUS? Screensaver? Other?
The suggestion in either this thread or the other to switch the window momentarily to another screen to clear the problem until the next FUS or screensaver event is my current favorite fix. I have hotkeys assigned to move a window from one screen to another, anyway, so when I return to a user session from login to see Safari schizing out, a quick screen-swap toggle clears the issues until I allow a screensaver (but not always) or engage FUS (always) and see the issue return.
Do you have multiple screens? Can you reliably resolve the issue by swapping and returning, rather than being forced to quit Safari?
One thing to note about the screen swap, is that when this issue is occurring, there is a tremendous lag (a solid second or so) before the window is actually moved to the other screen, and a comparable lag when returning. IOW, there is an observable and HUGE processor spike as well as a memory-use spike (seen in Activity Monitor, top, and iStat Menus) as it deals with moving the visual display (be it plain text or graphic or video content) when this bug is active, but the same action two seconds later, or the same action in any other program, nets near-instant screen movement in response to the global hotkey action.
So, whatever it is that is borked between Safari and Core Video is not just an interpretation/ColorSync/disply error; it seems also to be leaking memory and having runaway processor cycles, as well.
There are times when Safari, with less than ten or twenty tabs open starts eating pretty close to 2GB of RAM, and will dominate a single processor to near 100%, *without* any windows actually containing very much in the way of images, and certainly no Flash or even QT.
I know this sounds a bit arrogant and spoiled, but thank God I have 8 cores and 8GB of RAM; I cannot imagine how this bug might feel on a single core machine with less than 2GB of RAM.

IMac 24" with washed out colours - Help!

My iMac 24" Aluminium (June 2008) running 10.5.8 has behaved impeccably for almost two years. I use it for graphics and photographic work, so colour fidelity is very important.
A few days ago, in the morning, the machine was still "perfect". By lunchtime I realised something was not right. The Photoshop file I had been working on looked different. I could not see details in highlights, transparency in layers that was clearly there in the morning had suddenly vanished. Looking closer at the whole screen I realised the whole environment was washed out - not just in Photoshop files.
I tried:
Calibrating the monitor - no difference.
ColorSync Utility: Verify/repair - reported loads of errors but fixed nothing.
Took the mac to authorised Apple repair shop in Hove (UK). Spent time with the engineers trying to sort it out. They had not experienced this before.
We connected 2nd monitor. Strangest thing: The same moment the 2nd monitor was connected, the native screen instantly looked fine. Both monitors fine.
Disconnecting 2nd monitor, and the native screen went bad again.
Booted up the iMac with their external drive and system (sorry, not sure which system but probably the same 10.5.8). The screen looked fine, even without a 2nd monitor. Rebooting with native OS and the screen went bad again.
Conclusion: Corrupt file in the system somewhere. Advice: Reinstall system (archive/install).
I did this today. Screen is the same bad screen, so reinstalling 10.5.2 and upgrading to 10.5.8 did NOT solve the problem. Erase and install is my VERY LAST resort. I really don't want to start from scratch with new system, new installation of applications, updates, settings etc.
I would rather buy a small 2nd monitor, watch the screen look good again, having another screen to use and PRETEND I DON'T HAVE A PROBLEM!
I also ran an extended hardware test (from OSX 10.5.2 install DVD) without reporting any problems.
Questions:
Has anyone any idea what this can be?
Is it possible that upgrading to Snow Leopard can solve the problem (but that is also just an upgrade and not a clean start?)
One way of describing it is that a finder window has no contrast in highlights (blue and white horizontal stripes are only visible when another window's drop shadow multiplies with the background. Everything is too bright, banding appears in visible highlights.
Someone suggested moving the file /Library/Preferences/com.apple.windowserver.plist to trash, without deleting yet. Then reboot.
It didn't work.
Thanks for any help!

My problem was purely about screen contrast, not the colours. It was in fact me accidentally keying the shortcut (key command was unknown to me then) for contrast settings that are found in System Preferences -> Universal Access > Seeing, Display: Enhance Contrast. The key command is also shown there.
I now realize that I did this key command when working in Quark XPress which has a very similar command: "Shift-Option-Command" and then "," or "." I accidentally keyed "Control-Option-Command" and then "." Worth being aware of if you're working with Quark.
Glad your problem was solved by calibrating your monitor.

Z1 compact-washed out colors

I've just taken delivery of a Xperia Z1 Compact and its a great phone, but for the life of me I cannot get the screen to look anything like what I think it should do - in a nutshell, light colours look pale and washed out and dark areas of the screen and photographs are distinctly lacking in detail.
Viewing photographs imported from my Galaxy S2 was a big shock - they look fine on the Galaxy S2 but absolutely atrocious on the Xperia - again, washed out light areas, a lack of detail in dark areas, unrealistic colours and they look even worse than photos viewed on my very old Nokia. Same issues apply even with photographs taken on the Xperia. I will see if I can take a photo of the two phones side by side with images on screen to illustrate this.
Another example - using Whatsapp, the text box is a pale yellow - looks pale yellow on iPhones, Samsungs etc. but is almost white on the Xperia and no amount of fiddling with brightness or white balance or toggling X-reality on and off makes much of a difference. Compared to the Galaxy S2 the richness in colour and clarity of detail just isn't there and the difference in on-screen image quality when viewing photographs is shocking. I was expecting at least comparable quality from a more recent phone.
I'm using Android 4.4.2 and all updates were applied when I set up the phone - its driving me crazy so if anyone can help I would be very grateful!
WIth thanks and best wishes, Philip Porter.

That's bad news Then-im no expert but it seems one of the issues is that the contrast is set so high that light colours get blown out and dark colours lose detail-and unless I'm missing it, the contrast can't be adjusted? Rather upset if this is the case as I'm now stuck with a phone on a 2 year contract which is always going to display rubbish images!! Having researched reviews the one thing all reviews rave about is the screen! Very disappointed if there really is nothing I can do

W540 Washed out look in Word

I've just received my W540 and am using office 2013 on it. Does anyone know how to improve the screen so that things like Word right-click menus do not look so faded.
Surely the screen can't be that bad, can it? The blacks are poor but I would have thought pop-up menus should be ok.

Thanks. I did a calibration but that didn't help. I also suspect that switching graphics cards wouldn't affect the screen but would increase graphics speed on some programs. I tried changing the brightness, contrast and gamma using the Intel control panel and that helped a bit. The top of the screen is better, the menus are much less washed out, but the bottom only improved slightly.
I think that is just a poor quality screen. If I tilt the screen back the it improves, but it's too far back to work. It's almost like there is a torch at the bottom of the screen shining up, forming a white-ish arc from the corners to the middle, if that makes any sense.

IMPORTING JPEGS -- THEY'RE COMING OUT WASHED OUT

I have been trying to import jpeg images into final cut and in the process of importing them Final cut is slightly changing the images so that they're washed out, people's faces look overexposed where they didn't in the originals. I've tried resizing the images and importing smaller ones since the originals are very large but that has not helped. PLEASE HELP! Thanks.

Any luck in altering the Gamma settings of your imported JPEGs within FCP at all?
In case you don't know how to do that, check out the Late-Breaking News for FCP 5, then jump to the section on FCP 5.1.2 (which is when those features were introduced) or, as of this post, page 12.

Color is washed out and the type is fuzzy

The color on my HP Pavillion 15 Notebook PC appears washed out. In addition, despite trying several settings on the "clear type", my type seems to be fuzzy nd difficult to read. I've already tried adjusting the color on the advanced settings to no avail. As an example, if there is a box surrounding this post area, I cannot see it. I'm really frustrated and ready to return this after fighting with it for over a month.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

@Norma0312 ,
Hello and thank you for posting on the HP support forums. Here is a link you may find usefull that may help you resolve your issue.
Troubleshooting problems with notebook displays (Windows 8, Windows 7)
However you may have the connection cable to the screen a bit losse causing it not to provide enough signal.
In this case if you have tried reinstalling the drivers already I would contact HP phone support for repair options.
To give you an exact link to your system drivers you would have to provide the full Model and Product number. Use this link to find that information.
How Do I Find My Model Number or Product Number?
Please call our technical support at 800-474-6836. If you live outside the US/Canada Region, please click the link below to get the support number for your region. http://www8.hp.com/us/en/contact-hp/ww-phone-assist.html
Thank you again for posting. Please post back with your system information and I might be able to provide other options.
Please click the "Thumbs Up" on the bottom right of this post to say thank you if you appreciate the support I provide!
Also be sure to mark my post as “Accept as Solution" if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others who face the same challenge find the same solution.
D5GR
I work on behalf of HP

Washed out color - McGamma Shift?

In a major bind... Since switching to a new machine and Snow Leopard, my video looks washed out when out putted....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/realestateconvergence/4341439404/sizes/l/
The link above takes you to the photo samples of the video...
Photo on the left is rendered in h264 using Snow Leopard
Middle photo is from the timeline
Photo to the right is rendered in h264... Again using quick time conversion
The sweater, skin tone and blackness of the chair are the most obvious indications of the problem.
The setting aren’t so important, I’ve been using the same work flow for years without any problems...
The drop off in color is my concern... I was told it was a Snow Leopard problem, so I un-installed it on one machine and downgraded to Leopard... As you can see there has been no improvement...
In most of the forums the problem is refereed to as the McGamma Shift...
I just need a fix....
Thanks to anyone and everyone in advance for your help.
Jeff Brooks
Video Fishbowl

Hi Jeff - hope this helps.
I was having the same problem since upgrading to a new i7 iMac with Snow Leopard. A post on Creative Cow directed me to a Quicktime Preference fix.
Go to your preferences and under the "General" make sure that both "Enable Final Cut Studio color compatibility" and "Use high-quality video setting when available" are checked. This seems to have resolved the problem for me.
Cheers,
Karen

LaserJet 2605dn washed out colors with new color cartridges

I loaded the 3 new color cartridges, the black still has ink. Now when I print, the colors are washed out . I calibrated color and ran the cleaning utility. Strangely, the demo print page with the bright blue and orange looks just fine. I investigated further and found that printing from Adobe is okay. So it looks like I only have the problem when I'm printing from MS Office applications. Any ideas? It was working fine yesterday, before the toner change.

Hi Thomas,
With my iP8500 I leave it on, so it appears to be specifically the behavior of the Pro9000. I did a little more testing last night as I recently re-calibrated my system, and have another method you can try. Instead of turning off "Black Point Compensation" which can leave photos with lots of shadow detail a bit too dark, open up the "Printer Settings" window and go to the color management options. The only thing you can change here is the brightness setting. Change it from Normal to Dark, leaving BPC turned on. I think you'll be pleased with the results. Good luck!

Washed Out Colors When Digitizing From Mini-DV camera

Instead of renting a deck, I figured I'd just use a mini-DV camera to digitize some footage. The reasoning I'm using, is that there is NO DIFFERENCE in quality between digitizing mini-DV footage from a professional deck vs just a mini-DV camera. Is that correct?
The problem is that the footage on the LCD screen on the camera looks great. Vivid colors, solid blacks, great contrast. However, when I digitize into FCP 7 (Snow Leopard) the footage becomes murky. Washed out colors, milky blacks and hence it looks a lot more low-res than what I'm seeing on the camera's LCD screen when it digitizes.
Now, my first thought is that the screen is just compensating with more saturation and contrast. However, I'm also worried that somehow the footage isn't being brought in properly. I'm using the standard NTSC DV Anamorphic preset and capturing that way. Is there some gamma setting along the way could have affected the footage.
As it looks great on the camera's LCD, I'm wondering if there isn't some capture setting somewhere. Otherwise, I'm going have to boost the saturation and contrast to try and make the FCP footage match what I'm seeing on the camera.

It's all there in my initial inquiry.
Kind of...(let's not forget that your profile still lists G4 / Mac OS 10.4.2)...these details are important.
We ask for specifics, because often users have inadvertently tweaked settings, or run Software Update or some other upgrade, that can affect the system as a whole, particularly FCP.
Things like... exactly which version of QT are you using? Snow Leopard loads QTX (QT10) by default, which can cause it's own issues. It is possible to load QT7 additionally, but it will go into your Utilities folder (you should be able to move it to Applications), but since I'm not versed in SL, I'll not speculate whether it's an issue for you or not.
That's one example. So, please give us exact versions/info on...
OS/FCP/QT
Capture and Sequence settings (just to make sure)
How is the camera connected?
How are you currently monitoring your captured media?
K

Photos sent through ePrint are washed out - Help

I just ran a test sending 3 photos from my ipad via email to my HP Envy 100 e-Printer and they all appeared washed out. I then sent the same 3 photos directly to the HP Envy 100 e-Printer using the HP iPrint app and they were nice and brilliant -- confirming that the HPePrint Server is degrading the quality of photos.
Does anybody have any guidance on how to prepare photos that will be sent through the HPePrint Server so that they will be printed by the e-printer acceptably???

Hi slimmerjim,
Thank you for your feedback.
There will be some degradetion print quality if you compare between ePrint and HP iPrint. ePrint is transfer the data through the Internet so the photos are printed in normal mode as compare to HP iPrint which sends the data through wireless network which are printed in best mode.
HP is aware of this issue and we are looking to improving this.
Thank you.
I am an HP employee
**** Please mark the post that solves your problem as "Accepted Solution" ****

Improve detail in washed out faces

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