In need of some major advice!

hey, im currently running the last update of 10.4 and final cut studio 1. if I upgrade to leopard will all of my FCS1 apps still continue to work as they do now?
thanks
a.

As X said, there are no guarantees.
I had the "Unable to connect to Background Process" problem turn up with Compressor.
Solution: Go back to 10.4.11, start Compressor batch, drive to local dealer and pony up for FCS 2, make DVDs and deliver to client, spend next two days rebuilding Mac OS and all apps.

Similar Messages

In need of some helpful advice

hey there i went to sign up to the creative cloud and it returned a error saying i had to contact customer services but when i call the contact centers are clossed im a student from the uk i realy need this sorted out for college work this weekend . thanks in advance

Hi 16901234,
Can you post a screen shot of the error message?
-Dave

New ALchemy settings for some major games for Win7 (64-bit)...

[color="#ff0000"]Update 2/0/0 - Added Sid Meier's Civilization V: Ok this game is so hard to find in the registry because it uses a completely radically new type of installer that basically is a hybrid installer based on pulling the steam client game updates for Civ V and the data from the actual Civ V install DVD. The definiti've install location is similar to other steam apps are installed @ location C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\sid meier's civilization v. (The blue part is common for the majority of all steam installed games locations. Finding this for Civ V was not so easy, however.
Here is the actual entry you should add to your ALchemy.ini file and is the ONLY location that points to the aforementioned correct install path in the entire HKLM tree that is valid. This is truly a very very unique and bizarre and radically new way to find and detect correct install path strings without resorting to using the GAMEUX path (which is different on everyones computer). This path is indentical for all Civ V installs and therefore the most valid. The ALchemy team needs to address these new radical ways that game companies are injecting the install string into the registry in the future or ALchemy will start to break big time. Notice its the Uninstall path that actually functions as the only correct static install path for the game. Its a dual use path. Very clever!
[Sid Meier's Civilization V]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Mi crosoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Uninstall\Steam App 8930\InstallLocation
SubDir=
Duration=5
Preset=
GamePath=
RootDirInstallOption=FALSE
Buffers=4
MaxVoiceCount=28
DisableDirectMusic=FALSE
[color="#ff0000"]Update 2/0/0 - Added Star Wars Galaxies Trading Card Game: A nice game if you have SWG that uses gorgeous sound while playing. Here is the ALchemy.ini addition.
[Star Wars Galaxies Trading Card Game]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Wind ows\CurrentVersion\App Paths\SWGTCGGame.exe\Path
Preset=
GamePath=
SubDir=
RootDirInstallOption=FALSE
Buffers=4
Duration=25
MaxVoiceCount=28
DisableDirectMusic=FALSE
[color="#ff0000"]Update 2/0/0 - Added Star Trek Online: The only correct and static install path for this wonderful game.
[Star Trek Online]
RegPath=HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Cryptic\Star Trek Online\InstallLocation
Preset=
GamePath=
SubDir=
RootDirInstallOption=FALSE
Buffers=4
Duration=25
MaxVoiceCount=28
DisableDirectMusic=FALSE
[color="#ff0000"]Update 2/0/0 - Added A few oldies but goodies: Some older games I have managed to get to work with ALchemy. The sound in these older games is UNREAL in how good they sound now!
[Fallout Tactics]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\4 Degrees East\Fallout Tactics\ProgramFolder
Preset=
GamePath=
SubDir=
RootDirInstallOption=FALSE
Buffers=4
Duration=25
MaxVoiceCount=28
DisableDirectMusic=FALSE
[UFO Afterlight]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\AL TAR\UFO Afterlight\Path
Preset=
GamePath=
SubDir=
RootDirInstallOption=FALSE
Buffers=4
Duration=25
MaxVoiceCount=28
DisableDirectMusic=FALSE
[UFO Extraterrestrials]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Tr i Synergy\UFO Extraterrestrials\installed to
Preset=
GamePath=
SubDir=
RootDirInstallOption=FALSE
Buffers=4
Duration=25
MaxVoiceCount=28
DisableDirectMusic=FALSE
The original post:
I was playing around with the D:\Program Files (x86)\Creative\ALchemy\ALchemy.ini file to force ALchemy to run with all the games on my computer. After I changed the reg paths in this .ini file all the games I had on my computer started working with ALchemy running in Windows 7 64-bit. Windows 7 registry paths for some major game titles I play are NOT in the standard location that the ALchemy.ini file has them as which is why they never get registered. I run a 64-bit version of Windows 7 so the path is slightly different then the default ones in the .ini file. Here is what I added/changed and all these games now register with ALchemy and work! Game heading bolds are my addition in this post and not how they look like in the .ini file to help see the game titles better.
I tend to shy away from any GAMEUX registry strings (for example: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\Curr entVersion\GameUX\S--5-2-837354825-494596859-745999896-00\{AFF227C-B0BB-49A5-8DFF-E87FDB864D}\ConfigApplicationPath) as they may be different for one computer to the next as they look identical to a SID string which changes radically as it is created when the game is installed. The strings should be static so they would appear identical on my computer as they would on yours. Having a string in the install path that looks like above just gives me the creeps that it is not valid. Since I only have my computer to compare this against I am not positi've of this. Just to be sure stay away from GameUX strings that are alphanumeric in nature as they can change from computer to computer or reinstall to reinstall making ALchemy fail. More on this at the bottom of this post.
[Cabal]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Mi crosoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Uninstall\CABAL Online_is\InstallLocation
Preset=
[Dragon Age Origins]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Bi oWare\Dragon Age\Path
Preset=
[Dungeons & Dragons Online: Eberron Unlimited]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Tu rbine\DDO\InstallLocation
Preset=
[Sid Meier's Civilization IV]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Fi raxis Games\Sid Meier's Civilization 4\INSTALLDIR
Duration=5
Preset=
[Sid Meier's Civilization IV: Beyond the Sword]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Fi raxis Games\Sid Meier's Civilization 4 - Beyond the Sword\INSTALLDIR
Duration=5
Preset=
[Sid Meier's Civilization IV: Warlords]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Fi raxis Games\Sid Meier's Civilization 4 - Warlords\INSTALLDIR
Duration=5
Preset=
[Sid Meier's Pirates!]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\At ari\Sid Meier's Pirates!\INSTALL_PATH
Preset=
[Star Wars Galaxies]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Wind ows\CurrentVersion\App Paths\SwgClient_r.exe\Path
Preset=
[Wizard0]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Ki ngsIsle Entertainment, Inc.\Wizard0\InstallPath
Preset=
[World of Warcraft]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\Bl izzard Entertainment\World of Warcraft\InstallPath
Duration=0
Preset=
I left the Preset= in all of them to have default settings. You can change or add the additional options to your pleasure but I find the defaults to work just fine. Here are all the settings for the options from the top of the .ini file.
;Creative ALchemy titles
;Format/Options:
;? [TITLE]
;? RegPath <-- registry path containing string to executable or executable's directory (use this when available; alternati've is GamePath)
;? GamePath <-- Directory to look for app (use if RegPath can't be used)
;? Buffers <-- #buffers to use (default is 4)
;? Duration <-- buffer duration (default is 25)
;? DisableDirectMusic <-- disable DirectMusic support (default is False)
;? MaxVoiceCount <-- maximum number of voices to support (default is 28)
;? SubDir <-- subdirectory offset off of path pointed to by RegPath for library support (default is empty string)
;? RootDirInstallOption <-- option to install translator support in both RegPath and SubDir directories (default is False)
Notice if you do a clean reinstall of your games in Windows 7 the game paths are in actuality in the reg path of \Wow6432Node and not just the raw HKLM\Software location due to the way the 64-bit architecture restructures its registry keys to work with 32-bit games (as many of these still are in fact).
The duration and such you can play with but I just left the settings as they were and changed the executable path location that ALchemy needs to find and work with the game is all. If you reinstall Star Wars Galaxies the new Station Launcher will put the game folder under its location and therefore it may be different in your registry. SWG (and Cabal to some extent) is the only game in this list that specifically points to an abnormal location in the registry for the install path due to the way it is launched from a voicechat type of application (The Station Launcher). But at least it works this way, so I don't care too much. I even got my classic game Sid Meier's Pirates! to work with ALchemy, yay! For Cabal I used the uninstall location for the true install path. I assume as long as the path is valid, it will work and it shows up in the ALchemy window, yay!
[color="#ff0000"]Please verify these paths in your registry do in fact have these valid regitry entries using regedit or regedt32 and not just modify the .ini file as I have shown above.
GameUX strings
There is one game I can not find any verifiable path for in the registry and that's Sid Meier's Colonization =(? If anyone has a clue where this path is stored or how to edit the .ini file to reflect the correct location and work with ALchemy please let me know! I have tried this location:
[Sid Meier's Colonization]
RegPath=HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Wind ows\CurrentVersion\GameUX\S--5-2-837354825-494596859-745999896-00\{AFF227C-B0BB-49A5-8DFF-E87FDB864D}\ConfigApplicationPath
Preset=
...but it does not seem to like the GameUX registry path at all and won't detect it. Probably because its a specialized SID (in other words, the SID will be different on my computer then it is on yours) and ALchemy does not know how to transpose SID registry entries for it to work. GameUX is basically the registry location for all your Games as they are stored under the Start > Game location of your desktop. So if anyone can figure out how to include Direct3D games that are older but do not have a valid installation registry entry please let us know! Of course I could just use the full true path in this .ini file but I am not sure how that would look like and I don't want to break ALchemy for the games it does work with. So I stuck with just valid registry entries.
I own an X-Fi XtremeGamer sound card with version .4.02 of ALchemy running on Windows 7 64-bit as of this post.

?pmc64 wrote:
Why are you adding new games to alchemy No new games use eax and surround sound should work properly without it. The alchemy team doesnt need to do anything for the future of the program because it's for legacy games. You really don't? need to add wow6432node because it should read it anyways on 64 bit systems. At least it does with the 6 games i have installed. That steam regpath will work on any steam game. you just need to change the app number. About the only games that I have that need it are the old gold source games and far cry because for some reason the original reg path isnt on there. You really should update your alchemy version to 43.06 because the previous versions have problems with windows 7 and some games wont work right unless you change a .dll file to a older one.
A few things about your post.
) Alchemy does not automatically detect the registry path settings as you have been misled for a lot of games you have to manually tell it where it goes. Hence this post.
2) You are completely missing the point of ALchemy, which is to add the depth of audio in games (yes even new ones) which is lacking without them using just EAX.
3) ALchemy is for new games not just legacy ones. hence why I have added the keys for both.
4) I have had numerous ppl tell thank me for posting this thread and their games now are read by ALchemy. If you choose to not follow this thread its you choice. No worries =)
5) My updater does not show any version besides 4.02 and I dont look for something even newer in some obscure forum post or whatnot. Official beta drivers from Creative tend to be less then stellar in performace (if any indicitation is by how their li've drivers are its even worse in their beta flavors). When I do the auto update it returns:
Status: No updates are necessary for your Creative product.
Your system already has the latest versions installed.

Having some major mac - pc issues using remote workflow

Hi all. I'm having some major issues using the InCopy workflow and was hoping someone could help me out with a few items.
I've helped a client out with their workflow, proposing, demoing and promoting the InCopy workflow which seemed to be the best solution. And don't get me wrong when posting this message on the forum: I love the InCopy workflow and think it's briliant.
The scenario is that a design agency needs to deliver the layout for a big annual report for their client, who then makes changes in the text etc. The design agency is on a mac (ofcourse), but the endclient is on a PC. Now after some training and trying this all works fine. They are using the remote workflow, using icap and idap files (which they place on dropbox for easy transfer)
But they've been having so many issues these last few weeks, it's been crazy. And I'm actually starting to feel a bit uncomfortable every time they call me. Just to make clear, they love InCopy (... when it works). And eventhough I'm a huge supporter of the program I just wanted to make sure if there are any other glitches that I should know about. The thing is that (because I work for an IT company), every time they need support they get billed ofcourse. But the problem is that everytime they run into some kind of problem, production just stops and they need me to fix everything.
Issues that they are having:
- the endclient (so copywriter) works on a project all weekend (an icap file). Saves everything, checks in, closes, goes to bed. Next morning (monday) she opens up the same file to continue working and gets the "cannot recover..." error (see attachment). And she looses her edits. You need to understand that these copywriters really know what they're doing with InCopy.
- when a colleague of hers is working with InCopy, and InCopy crashes and she reopens her file then it also happens that the checked-out stories from before remain checked out and she cannot continue (because the story has already been checked out by "another user" (herself)). I managed to resolve this by opening up the individual icml files in incopy and just closing them again. That seemed to remove the "lock" status of the icmls. But still they need me for support. This also happened in the design agency. They are working on a layout, check out stories, InDesign crashes, reopen file and stories remain checkout and they cannot continue because InDesign thinks that they're checked out to another user. And they do not have InCopy themselves so I cannot use my "open icml in incopy and close"-workaround.
- after a few extra InCopy crashes (where InCopy.exe just doesn't feel like doing anything anymore and quits), I decided to place their files (unpacked icma and icmls from the icap) on the C drive instead of on their server and this seemed to resolve a bit of the trouble. The workflow seems to be a lot more stable now. I did this because they also received the dreaded "Error: code 0" message when starting up (and again) she lost her work). After some creative googling I was able to find out that this might have something to do with disk permissions and copy-paste issues on a PC server. Anyway, it was worth a try
- only yesterday the client called me stating she couldn't start up her icap files anymore. I was able to recover the indiviual icml files and send these back to the design agency and recover part of her work. (after combing out the files I discovered on of the icml files was damaged and could not be opened, that is why opening the icap file failed).
- and one last issue (which isn't really a problem but just a bit of a rant ;-). Why does it take 8 full minutes to open up a 2,6Mb icap file on a fast laptop (from the HD)? Even on my own laptop it takes several minutes? I know that the waiting time has something to do with the complexity of the files (images, how many styles, how many icmls, etc). But it seems ridiculously long.
They've been having issues like this on a weekly basis and they're starting to loose faith in the solution because it's costing them more money (via support) then it's saving them.
Does anyone have any experience with this? Is this because it's a mac-pc workflow? I understand that this is officially supported, but it practice teaches us that it's in fact not that stable I'd rather just recommend the client to get a mac from the start. Every client would rather hear that than having to deal with all these issues. And I have to say I'm very happy with the client for being so understanding, but I think they'll run out of patience soon if this keeps up. I've also included some other "postcards from InCopy" ;-) and so you must understand if you get all these errors during the last 3 weeks losing hours of work ... well it's just not fun anymore.
Thank you all very much, and hopefully see you guys at PepCon this year.
Bart

Hi Bob,
You are right, I didn't give this information. I must have forgotten.
Designers are working with:
OSX 10.7.2
InDesign CS5.5 (fully patched)
Copywriters are working with:
Windows 7
InCopy CS5.5 (also fully pathed).
There is no font managing software used, everyone uses open-type fonts which they specifically purchased for this workflow.
If the problem persists I will try with the assignment based workflow on dropbox. I waited with this workflow because the client wants to keep their files on their server so they can have backups if something goes wrong. I know Dropbox makes backup as well, but lets just say they have more faith in their own systeem (dropbox was completely new to them ).
So there are no reports of an unstable mac-pc InCopy workflow?
Thanks

I am thinking of buying a iPad but my main desktop machine uses Windows 7 and MS Office. How easy or difficult is it to transfer data files between the iPad and Windows? Are there obvious problems or the need for some form of conversion programs?

I am thinking of buying a iPad but my main desktop machine uses Windows 7 and MS Office. How easy or difficult is it to transfer data files between the iPad and Windows? Are there obvious problems or the need for some form of conversion programs?
Many thanks for any advice.
David

You don't need conversion programs, iTunes can copy most of your content over to the iPad via the file sharing section, and some apps also support Dropbox, email attachments, transfer via your wifi network. There are a number of apps that you can get that support Microsoft office file (microsoft don't make an app versions of their software) e.g. from Apple there are Pages (word support), Numbers (excel) and Keynote (powerpoint), and from third-parties there are apps such as Documents To Go and QuickOffice HD

Looking for some workflow advice

I'm starting work on a project that has media coming from several different sources, and I'd like some workflow advice. I'm using the CS6 Production Premium suite on a Windows7 computer. My primary video source is a Canon XF-100 shooting 24/1080p MXF video, but I'll also be incorporating AVC-HD shots taken with a 60D, XA10, GoPro, and iPhone. So, here are my main questions:
1. Should I transcode or not? Most of the footage (at least 2/3rds or so) will be from the XF-100, which Premiere can edit natively. I'm inclined just to put the AVC-HD clips straight into an MXF-formatted project and let Premiere render them in the sequences as needed. But I'm also wondering if it would be better for overall quality and consistency to transcode everything into the same format before importing into the project and set the project to that format.
2. If I do transcode, what format? Should I just convert the AVC-HD stuff to MXF for use in an MXF-native project? Or should I convert everything to another format entirely?. If so, which one? (I'm thinking AVC-Intra 100 at 24/1080p, but I'm not sure.)
Any experienced sages out there want to offer their $0.02? Thanks in advance,
Stu

transcoding will not produce any better quality. you can actually degrade the quality in most cases, unless transcoding to raw. transcoding is usually done for proxy editing to allow for faster editing, or compatibility, if the original file cannot be read by the editing application. premiere pro usually handles mixed formats well, just make sure to either create the sequence from a clip that matches the destination format or create a sequence manually and specify the format that will be used for export.
if you do need to transcode to get some files to read, the avid dnxhd codec is a popular choice as it takes very little cpu and gpu resources to read. it has several quality options you can choose from, but it is limited to 1080p. if you transcode for faster editing (proxy editing), use dnxhd 36 8bit, and relink to the originals when done to keep their quality.

Looking for some help/advice on LabVIEW

Hello, I'm completely new to LabVIEW but have a project to do and was wondering if anyone could give me some help/advice/ideas.
I need to use LabVIEW to interface with a power meter (Agilent E4419B) via a GPIB cable. I have a GP10 card. I have the drivers from the NI website. Can anyone think of any other software/hardware I may require? Or any advice about the best way to go about this from experience?

Yeah sorry I am being very vague!
Basically I am wondering how you actually go about setting up LabVIEW to communicate with the meter - is all I need a GPIB card and cable? How do the drivers actually work? Do I need to use any different commands to interact with the meter or do the drivers serve this purpose?

I am experiencing some major problems with my MacBook Pro. I have had some issues with it turning on/off at random times, but today, when starting, I get the grey start-up screen and a recovery bar. After filling in approx 1/4 of the way, the machine dies

I am experiencing some major problems with my MacBook Pro. I have had some issues with it turning on/off at random times, but today, when starting, I get the grey start-up screen and a recovery bar. After filling in approx 1/4 of the way, the machine dies. After starting it in recovery mode, it will not allow me to download OS X Mavericks- it says the disk is locked. Any ideas? I do not have a back-up and do not want to erase everything before I have explored my options. Help?

try forcing internet recover, hold 3 keys - command, option, r - you should see a spinning globe
most people will tell you to do both pram and smc resets (google) and if you still have issues, either clean install (easy) or troubleshoot (hard)

In need of some help!! my iphone 4s is not letting me take pictures or videos or even use the flashlight, does anyone know what to do??

In need of some help!! my iphone 4s is not letting me take pictures or videos or even use the flashlight, does anyone know what to do??

Hello Albert3232,
It sounds like you cannot use either camera, nor the LED as a camera. I want to recommend a couple of things here.
First, close all the open and running apps on the phone:
iOS: Force an app to close
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht5137
Double-click the Home button.
Swipe left or right until you have located the app you wish to close.
Swipe the app up to close it.
When you have done that restart the phone:
iOS: Turning off and on (restarting) and resetting
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1430
If the issue persists, I would next backup your device to iTunes, and restore it:
iOS: How to back up and restore your content
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1766
Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
All the best,
Sterling

My iPod is up to a 4.1 ios, and it won't update to a 5.1 which I need for some of my apps for school. It keeps saying that my internet connection is bad; but, it works just fine. What do I need to do?

My iPod is up to a 4.1 ios, and it won't update to a 5.1 which I need for some of my apps for school. It keeps saying that my internet connection is bad; but, it works just fine. What do I need to do?

If you get a network timeout error, then disabling the computer's security software duirng the download and update usually resovles that error.
If that is not the error what is the wording of the error message.
Note that only a 3G or 4G iPod can go to iOS 5. A 2G iPod can only go to iOS 4.2.1

Does anyone know if Apple has any plans to create an electronic medical records (EMR) program? And if not, who do I email to suggest just that as a new market in desperate need of some new innovation?

Does anyone know if Apple has any plans to create an electronic medical records (EMR) program? And if not, who do I email to suggest just that as a new market in desperate need of some new innovation?

There already are some tools in the App Store (eg. My Medical - https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/my-medical/id347860026?mt=8).
If you mean something that would interact directly with a Hospitals main system or such, I don't know of any. There are numerous companies now selling and setting up central records systems around the country, but I don't know of any that are working on companion patient tools yet.
Some charity and non-profit companies, like MedicAlert Foundation are working on such things and may have mobile apps on their radar, as funds allow them to develop such thing. MedicAlert already offers an EMIR service online, but no standalone mobile app for it yet (you manage it via their web portal).
Epocrates (owned by Athena Health) might also have something in the works, or at least an interest in such a thing.

I have the latest Pages 5.2 and get a sign saying "INDEX.pages" can't be opened. I have need of some of the documents. What can i do?

I have the latest Pages 5.2 and get a sign saying "INDEX.pages" can't be opened. I have need of some of the documents. What can i do?

Probably you have 2 versions of Pages on your Mac.
Pages 5 is in your Applications folder.
Pages '09/'08 is in your Applications/iWork folder.
You are alternately opening the wrong versions.
Pages '09/'08 can not open Pages 5 files and you will get the warning that you need a newer version.
Older versions of Pages 5 can not open Pages 5.2 files and you will get the warning that you need a newer version.
Pages 5 can open Pages '09 files but may damage/alter them. It can not open Pages '08 files at all.
Once opened and saved in Pages 5 the Pages '09 files can not be opened in Pages '09.
Once opened and saved in Pages 5.2 files can not be opened in Pages 5.
Anything that is saved to iCloud and opened by newer Pages versions anywhere, is also converted to Pages 5 files.
All Pages files no matter what version and incompatibility have the same extension .pages.
Pages 5 files are now only compatible with themselves on a very restricted set of hardware, software and Operating Systems and will not transfer correctly on any other server software than iCloud.
Apple has removed over 95 features from Pages 5 and added many bugs:
http://www.freeforum101.com/iworktipsntrick/viewforum.php?f=22&sid=3527487677f0c 6fa05b6297cd00f8eb9&mforum=iworktipsntrick
Archive/trash Pages 5, after exporting all Pages 5 files to Pages '09 or Word .docx, and rate/review it in the App Store, then get back to work.
Peter

In need of last ditch advice (upgrade to HC96 or buy Canopus converter?!)

Hi all,
Need the community's advice here...
Bought the Sony HC48 model not knowing it lacked the A/V in... too late to return for a refund to JR.com... the ability to transfer analog to digital is very important to me, so here's the question...
in your opinion, should I:
a) hold onto the HC48 and use it for its primary camcorder purpose to shoot video, and supplement that with a Canopus converter (ADVC 55, 110, or 300) for my analog to digital conversion needs... OR...
b) exchange the HC48 and upgrade to the HC96 (paying the difference), which I can use as both a camcorder and a digital pass through mechanism, thus eliminating the need for an external converter...
I would greatly appreciate any feedback. Thank you in advance and have a great weekend everyone!
Regards,
Joe

It's really your call, as only you know the financial implications of either course!
The Canopus ADVC110 works perfectly for me - I still use an analogue video camera - and is IMO the best value for money of the three.
Hang on: I just checked the specs of that camera, and it says that it includes:
i.LINK® DV Interface1
A digital high-speed bi-directional interface which provides Audio/Video communication between two compatible devices. This connection allows for pure digital transfer between devices equipped with an IEEE1394 interface, such as camcorders, digital VTRs, capture cards and PCs.
iLink is Sony's name for Firewire. If this is a digital camera you are good to go!
You will probably find that it actually connects to your Mac through the Handycam Station. But it is likely that they 'forgot' to include the required firewire cable, but that you can get in any camera store.

I recently bought my 1st iPhone. It is a 2nd hand iPhone 3Gs. I have inserted the Sim card from my BlackBerry Storm 9500, but I don't know how to access my Contact List on the Sim card. I would greatly appreciate some guidance / advice please?

I recently bought my 1st iPhone. It is a 2nd hand iPhone 3Gs 16gb. I use Vodafone. The iPhone Version is 4.3.5 (8L1), Model is MC131B,
I have inserted my Sim card from my BlackBerry Storm 9500, but I cannot seem to find a way to access my Contact List the Sim card.
Also, I have synced my iPhone with iTunes on my MacBook, but my music doesn't show up at all on my iPhone. Any suggestions please?
I would greatly appreciate some guidance / advice please? Many thanks in anticipation...

You can import the contacts from SIM.
It is covered in the manual:
iPhone User Guide (For iOS 4.2 and 4.3 Software)

MSI Pro-E Chipset Cooling (Need Some Major Clarification Here Before I Begin)

Hey guys, about to bring up a very well known issue here, which brought about many 'heated' debates, no pun intended :P I know there has been many threads on this issue for nearly 2 years now, and well, i did tons of reading on the subject, starting with this classic thread here: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=126885.0 and various others. I'll try and keep this as short as i can and get right to the point. I know what needs to be done, and the method i will be going with (though i am still debating with some options on the final decision), so i wont even bother going into all of that and save myself and you guys some time here. I am quite certain that HU16E has seen more than enough of these threads, and that every time he sees one, he probably gets a brain ache (sorry man )
But basically, i want to remove the stock heatsink on my X58 Pro-E mobo, and replace BOTH the NB and SB heatsinks. This is something very simple to do, take maybe no more than half hour to get it all removed, put the new TIM on, reseat it, etc, and i am all done. The only problem is having to gut the system and put everything back, which takes even longer to do and is something i am not looking forward to doing, but i am just not comfy with an idle temp of 78c-80c, so i want to take care of all this asap. Yes, i know that is under Intels specs, and yes, it IS working, but i haven't even bothered to play any games on this new system yet, because i know if i was to fire up a power hungry game, that the temps would be well over 90c, and that is just NOT GOOD.
What i want to be sure of, and the main question here, is do any of you know, FOR CERTAIN, which heatsink will fit this mobo without any blood, sweat, tears, tedious modding and cussing up a storm and throwing temper tantrums? Or even worse, getting the heatsink and having it not fit at all? That is something i want to avoid, as it just wastes more time having to send it back, look for another and just creates more hassle. If i do decide to actually hacksaw the heatpipe that links the stock NB/SB together, well at that point, there is no going back, and when i go to put the new heatsinks on and they wind up not fitting, i am basically screwed and wont be able to use the pc for days until finding the right one, so again, i want to avoid all of that.
In that thread i linked to above, he mentions he used that Thermalright NB heatsink, but the problem here, is that he was using the Eclipse mobo, which is not the one i have. I seen some others in that thread saying that they had the PRO-E, but never went into enough detail that they used that same heatsink. It seems like it would fit ok, but 'seems' isn't good enough, and i need to be certain it would. Looking in the system right now, i can lower the gfx card to PCI-E slot 2, to make even more room, so shouldn't be a problem i would think.
But then i came across this thread, and found it quite interesting: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=129044.0
Now this person used that Thermaltake Spirit 2 NB cooler, but it seems Thermaltake yanked that off the market, because the link to newegg in the thread, now shows it OUT OF STOCK/DEACTIVATED. Also if you go here:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 and click the pic of the old Spirit 2, it then leads you here: http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 , so they obviously recalled the other one for whatever reason. I am guessing because that one was copper, and this one is aluminum and also smaller and virtually do the same job as the other. This one seems really nice and would definitely be the one i would like to go with, since it has a 40mm fan on it all in one, unlike the Thermalright, which doesn't come with a fan (but can use an 80mn fan as well with the mounting contents it comes with). Based on what i have been reading about this issue, if i reseat everything properly, use AS5 and make sure the fans are blowing properly, this Thermaltake heatsink should have virtually the same effect as the Thermalright would. Of course, this leaves the SB completely exposed, which leads to me part 2 of this person's post. He linked to this NB/SB cooler, which is just about the same size as the stock SB cooler, and he 'claims' it fits just fine:
http://www.xoxide.com/enzotech-cnb-s1l.html
There is also another model by the same company, which has a small fan on it too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708006
The first one would definitely fit, at least where the gfx card is concerned, albeit, barely. Not sure if the one with the fan would, but then again, based on all that i've read so far, that seems like overkill, since the SB doesn't get hot at all, only lukewarm at this point, and a decent heatsink is all that is really needed. However, i say this person 'claimed' it fit, 'supposedly', because he never posted pics when asked about it, and then disappeared from his own thread shortly after. And what spoiled the whole read for me, was another person posting this:
"The enzotech low profile heatsink will not fit on the south bridge because the hole to hole diameter is too large for it to match up against the mounting holes of the south bridge on the x58 boards.
The Enzotech CNB-S1L has 2 possible hole-hole diameters: 54.6 mm and 59mm. However, the mounting holes on the mobo are only 49mm apart. So the Enzotech heatsink designed for the northbridge will not fit on the south bridge.
If you somehow managed to make it fit, please post pics."
So yea, now i can't be certain that heatsink would fit on the SB, and if this guy was telling the truth, if he did his own modding to force it to fit, or what. Yes, i can hacksaw the pipe off, and leave the stock SB heatsink there, but...i figure if i am going to replace one, i may as well replace the other while i am doing all of that. Like i said, i don't want to have to find out it doesn't upon installing it, because that is just unnecessary time being wasted.
And there you have it, guys. Now, i am no expert at all when it comes a lot of this stuff, as far as certain technical aspects go, but many posters here really know their stuff and from what i have read here and on other forums, i feel like a total noob sometimes lol. So all this boils down to, and what i really need to know, is will all the heatsinks that i have outlined here, fit this motherboard properly? I really need to take care of this asap, because this thing running at 78-80 all the time is really going to lower it's life span, and every second that it does, is just one less second of use. Maybe that is being a lil too dramatic, but still, i've seen so many get their temps down to the low 40s and 50s, so i know for sure this board DOES NOT need to be running that hot :-/
On another note, i noticed many saying they wanted to add nuts/washers or whatever, to give better stability and contact. Well, since as i am as bad as it gets with carpentry, measuring, etc, i have no damn idea which ones i would need. I once was asked to measure something long ago when i worked as a laborer for a carpenter and reported back, saying to him '2/3s'. The guy looked at me like i had two heads lmao. Fortunately, i can read a ruler/measuring tape much better now lol, but i'm still no Norm, from This Old House. I hear all this talk of 'spring mounts', 'push pins' 'mounting holes', 'screws', etc. Since i am unable to see the back of my mobo right now (only the CPU area from the other side of the case panel when removed), i have no idea if its using metal screws, or push pins, or what. I see the heatsinks i mentioned here, as well as many others, use these various methods, so im uncertain what would work on this board (if it needs plastic/nylon screws or metal ones). Now, i checked out this youtube vid of a guy showing how to remove my exact mobo and reseat it with new/better paste. It was quite informative. Just so you guys know, i have the older 'brown colored' Pro-E board. The one in the video looks to be the same color. However, i just purchased this board, along with the whole system less than 3 weeks ago, so i don't know how old this Pro-E may be.
Another important question about what this guy did in the vid too. You can fast-forward to where he takes it apart. Looks to me like they are metal screws, but again, im unsure if mine use those. The front of the heatsinks have two holes, those of which i can easily see, and have what looks to be a plastic washer or something on it. It looks 'greyish'. Now, A VERY IMPORTANT issue in this vid, is this guy removed the THERMAL PADDING on the heatsinks. I read here all over the place, that you are NOT SUPPOSED TO DO THAT, as to ensure that the heatsinks aren't touching any components on the board, the chipset itself. As you can see in the first couple comments, the guy says 'Yes, the existing pads were scraped off. It's important to remove the old thermal pads, otherwise you won't have any benefit & it may even be worse.' So yea. all that does is just confuse me more. Considering how gunked up, though, that the paste will be when removing it, i can only image that the stock pad on there is probably gonna be pretty nasty as well too, which is why he probably took it all off. But yea, wondering if you guys could clarify that for me, if that should be done or not. Seems many here were very firm that it should NEVER be removed.
I can honestly i never have had an issue with MSI until now, and they do put out quality products, but i hope in the future, that newer mobos would use better TIM and have a fan added on the NB or something. Other manufacturers do this, some don't, but they ALL should, so i am not just singling out MSI here. We live in an age where technology is very capricious and always progressing, and back in the day, well, PCs didn't require crazy amounts of fans, watercooling, etc. But with things putting out so much wattage these days, apps/games/movies requiring better hardware, which also needs more power and/or outputs a lot too, well you don't have to work for NASA to know that heat is going to be a problem, and the motherboard being an obvious vital component, should be adequately cooled just as well as everything else that needs it. I do love this board, and it does more than enough to suit my needs, i just wish it didn't run so dang hot That's the ONLY gripe i have about it.

Hey, HU16E, and others,
I just wanted to let you know that i finally broke down and attempted this procedure (after a lot of hesitation), and everything worked out perfectly as you said, WITHOUT having to buy some aftermarket chipset cooler. Maybe it was meant to be for me, because i learned a crap load of things in the process and in the end, it wasn't as hard or grueling as i thought (although 1 process was, which ill get to shortly lol).
Once i finally got everything gutted (well, just the stuff attached to the mobo), i then removed it, and hit a wall, because the screws that hold down the chipset heatsink, wouldnt fit any phillips head screw drivers had, so i had to stop, run out and buy a lil six pack of VERY small philips and flat heads. I had assumed during my extensive research on all of this, that those screws used the 6-32 size, which is pretty much the smallest i could find out there. Many pointed out the RC/Model Airplane hobby shops, but nothing i could find out where i live. Those 4 screws differ from everything else in the case. I thought they would be the M3 type screw (6-32), which on the wiki for pc-screws, had said they were commonly used on most mobos. But anyway, i got those off with the right screwdriver, and that was where the 'grueling' part came in.
The NB heatsink came off after 5 minutes of careful wiggling/rocking/twisting to the left and right. I never once PULLED UPWARD, until it was VERY LOOSE, in fear that i would crack the NB die, because if that happened, well, the mobo would basically have become nothing more than a good coffee cup stand). The SB took about 20 minutes since it was cemented on there pretty good. I had to use a wrench and lock both sides of it on there, and then again, just twisted to the left n right carefully, because my hands/fingers were too big to get a grip on the heatsink it uses. Finally, it came off, and i was good to go, but my goodness.....
...not to sound to harsh here, but man, that original paste it had was just terrible, HU16E. This Pro-E i have is the brownish colored one, and so, it had this pink, bubble gum stuff, that was VERY sticky and hard, and i can now see why these heating issues were taking place. Also, the HS itself wasnt as tight as when i finally put it all back. I used alcohol and qtip swab, and also your toothpick method of scraping from the outside, in, to form a clump, which worked well, but the thinner residue afterward was a real hassle to get off there, both on the HS and the NB die/SB surface. Used a butterknife on the HS, but only soft and non-metallic stuff on the NB die, and just kept wiping with alcohol and a microfiber pad for what felt like an eternity until it just basically dissolved and got that nice mirror finish. I used 4 of the 6-32 washers between the stock screw/spring/washer, and believe it or not, it fit very well. It's not loose, the screws head doesnt go through it at all, and once it was scerwed in nice n tight, there was no play at all, so it worked out really well. I mean, at most while it was loose, was probably just a micro millimeter of space while it was around the screws shaft, but again, once it was in there it was tight as can be. I used Arctic Cooling MX-4, since it one of the best out there and i liked the fact it was non-conductive. From what i have read about pastes, metallic-based compounds just arent necessary in this day and age anymore. Also replace the paste on the CPU cooler too.
So i fired up, and well...checked the bios temps, and there ya have it. Went from 82 degrees, down to 48! That definitely made it all worth it. Now i can finally do some gaming/hd content without having to worry about it going into the 90s. It hasnt even exceeded 60 on load, so all is well for sure Also have an antec spot fan set on medium and aimed right over the NB and added a 200mm fan on the top of case, acting as exhaust, so im sure that all plays a part too.
Honestly, though, i really hope MSI is NOT using that paste anymore, because it really is just....well.....ill just say it's BAD lol. It sure as hell would work awesome for some kind of adhesive or glue that is for sure lmao. Maybe MSI should hold onto to that stuff, and give the glue market some competition lol. But yea, as a thermal compound, umm...i just sure hope they switched to a good type of paste for all their future mobos, especially the z68s. I also don't believe that the NB/SB heatsink ever needed a combo type deal, via the heat pipe, as this just creates more tedium. Heck, i dont even think the SB even needs a HS on it, as it doesn't even give off much heat at all. Mine is barely lukewarm to the touch. Not to mention, when taking it off, the heat pipe tends 'move/bend' a bit, and this means the heatsinks on either side will not match up well, or be perfectly parallel when you seat them back on the board. I had to keep bending it gently and standing it on my table til all 4 pegs on the bottom would touch, this way i would know that it'd reseat properly. I hope in the future that MSI will scrap that whole linked HS set-up.
As i stated before, love the board, and the TIM issue was the only issue i had with it, and now since that is resolved, i have no gripes whatsoever. Down the line, ill probably get a z68 soon, and wouldn't mind at all going with MSI, but id like to be assured first that some changes were made to the chipset cooling, because even though this was all a good learning experience for me, it is not something i want to go through again lol.
But hey, thanks a bunch for all of your advice HU16E and other mods as well. I was going to go with that Thermalright HS, and your posts (past and present) convinced me otherwise and the temps are down to what others got them to WITH that same aftermarket heatsink, so you saved me 30USD

In need of some major advice!

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