In the dark with PSE7

Hi. I have been using the trial version of elements 7 and am considering buying it, as my version 4 has problems with vista. My question is that when I open the PSE7 editor, the background and especially the toolbars are very dark, so that I need to highlight an option in order to see it. Is there a setting somewhere to change this so I can see what I am working with? I tried preferences, view, and others, but they all seem to refer to the photo I am working with and not the workplace. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I sent a question to adobe, but no reply.

Yes, I do have version 7, and I did stumble upon this setting, but I moved brightness to 100% and it only helps a little. I thought there might be something more. That was 1 problem I DIDN'T have with 4. Cannot understand why they would make the background so dark?
thanks,

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In the dark with isight

Hello world,
I was getting into skype and the like when one day all the various video programs gave a message that no camera could be found.
A few forums have suggested various resets, which I've tried to no avail.
Any suggestion on how to regain isight?
Cheers....

uruguayvsargentina wrote:
Hello world,
I was getting into skype and the like when one day all the various video programs gave a message that no camera could be found.
A few forums have suggested various resets, which I've tried to no avail.
Any suggestion on how to regain isight?
Cheers....
Welcome to Discussions, uruguayvsargentina
For any iSight problems, first try restarting the Mac. If the problems persist, try all relevant suggestions from:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2090
If your iSight problem still occurs in more than one app and more than one user account, the reset suggested there often restores proper function of inbuilt iSight.
However, if your built-in iSight still does not work after carefully following all the suggestions in the "How to Troubleshoot iSight" article, and if iSight does not show as a USB hardware device in your Mac's System Profiler utility, yours is most likely a hardware problem. In that case, contact Apple or an Apple-Authorized Service Provider for service.
Mac Pro Quad Core (Early 2009) 2.93Ghz Mac OS X (10.6.5); MacBook Pro (13 inch, Mid 2009) 2.26GHz (10.6.5)
LED Cinema Display; G4 PowerBook 1.67GHz (10.4.11); iBookSE 366MHz (10.3.9); External iSight; iPod4touch4.2.1

I am using iphone 4s. when I try to take the photos in the dark with flash or with flash photos looks bad

Photo grayed out with more contrast

uninstall itunes
you may have to manually delete anything related to itunes in regedit
reboot and reinstall itunes

Why suddenly does my Firefox window only use the top 3/4 of the page with a blank dark box and a blank light box in the bottom 1/4 of the page?boxk

I'm using Firefox 30.0 on a desktop PC with Windows XP. When I opened Firefox tonight, a box popped up for about 3 seconds which appeared to say "installing update". Then, when the Firefox window opened, the "normal" page only took up the top 3/4 of the window, with the bottom 1/4 of the window taken up by a blank dark gray square box on the left side and a blank light beige rectangle box on the right side. As I open new tabs, go to various web sites, etc., the boxes remain in the bottom 1/4 of the window, and there's a scroll bar on the right side of the window so can scroll to the parts of the page that are "under" the boxes. I'll send screen prints of this if there's someplace to send them.

'''Try Firefox Safe Mode''' to see if the problem goes away. [[Troubleshoot Firefox issues using Safe Mode|Firefox Safe Mode]] is a troubleshooting mode that turns off some settings, disables most add-ons (extensions and themes).
If Firefox is open, you can restart in Firefox Safe Mode from the Help menu:
*In Firefox 29.0 and above, click the menu button [[Image:New Fx Menu]], click Help [[Image:Help-29]] and select ''Restart with Add-ons Disabled''.
*In previous Firefox versions, click on the Firefox button at the top left of the Firefox window and click on ''Help'' (or click on ''Help'' in the Menu bar, if you don't have a Firefox button) then click on ''Restart with Add-ons Disabled''.
If Firefox is not running, you can start Firefox in Safe Mode as follows:
* On Windows: Hold the '''Shift''' key when you open the Firefox desktop or Start menu shortcut.
* On Mac: Hold the '''option''' key while starting Firefox.
* On Linux: Quit Firefox, go to your Terminal and run ''firefox -safe-mode'' <br>(you may need to specify the Firefox installation path e.g. /usr/lib/firefox)
When the Firefox Safe Mode window appears, select "Start in Safe Mode".<br>
[[Image:Safe Mode Fx 15 - Win]]
'''''If the issue is not present in Firefox Safe Mode''''', your problem is probably caused by an extension, and you need to figure out which one. Please follow the [[Troubleshoot extensions, themes and hardware acceleration issues to solve common Firefox problems]] article to find the cause.
''To exit Firefox Safe Mode, just close Firefox and wait a few seconds before opening Firefox for normal use again.''
When you figure out what's causing your issues, please let us know. It might help others with the same problem.

Just wondering what Apple's stand is on the issue with a flickering and a dark area appearing on imac 27"screen - forums seem to indicate this is not uncommon - and happens through normal use - so should be subject to repair (Sale of Goods Act - 6 years)

Just wondering what Apple's stand is on the issue with a flickering and a dark area appearing on imac 27"screen - forums seem to indicate this is not uncommon - and happens through normal use - so should be subject to repair (Sale of Goods Act - ie 6 year warranty)

We are just users like yourself. If Apple has stated publicly about the problems you mentioned, it will be listed on their website and/or in one of their Knowledge Base Articles.
I have a 27" & do not suffer from such a problem. You should keep in mind that these are technical support forums. Generally, the only people posting here are those with problems. The thousands/millions without problems don't ever come here.
Think of these forums as a hospital emergency room.

Has anyone found any glow-in-the-dark earbuds (with mic) for the iPhone? I'm looking for some that glow or light up so they can be seen when I walk in the dark.

Has anyone found any glow-in-the-dark earbuds (with mic) for the iPhone? I'm looking for some that glow or light up so they can be seen when I walk in the dark.

In a roaming network, your "main" router is the device that would require port mapping/forwarding to be configured in order to access the IP camera from the Internet. This router is also the one that would be provide the private IP address for the camera which you will want to be a static one.
So as you described your network, the IP cameras should be getting an IP address or you assigned it a static one and this is the address that you would enter in the Private IP address (or equivalent depending on the router used) field when setting up port mapping.
If you are not able to access this camera from the local network, then this should be troubleshot first.

Trouble syncing photos with PSE7 (and the folder issue)

Here's a brief history on what I've done up to now:
I've had Photoshop Elements 7 installed for a while and I installed the PSE8 trial over top of it. I converted the catalog, and everything sync-wise was fine. After it exprired last night, however, I uninstalled it, and tried to revert back to PSE7. I added some photos to the catalog...
And there's where my troubles started. When I went back into iTunes to sync with PSE, it showed all of the albums I have previously made in PSE8, even though I uninstalled it. I managed to track down where the PSE8 copy of the catalog from where it was hiding, and deleted it.
Now, it doesn't even pick up any catalog anymore. Worse, when I sync my photos with PSE, it give me "iPod "" cannot be synced. The required folder cannot be found.". It does NOT give me this message when I sync with custom folders, but I strongly prefer to NOT do it that way and to do so with PSE7 instead.
I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling iTunes, restarted computer, nothing helps.
Does anyone know of a fix so that iTunes sees my catalog again? (Yes, I even deleted all instances of "iPod Photo Cache" from my computer too. Didn't help.)

Nevermind, seems I posted this in the wrong place.

OK, I'm perplexed. I've been a mac user for almost 30 years. My entire ecosystem is Mac and I remained with mac through the dark 90s. What apple has does in the past 2 years is unbelieveable. I just upgraded to 10.86, then 10.9, no end of problems

OK, I'm perplexed. I've been a mac user for almost 30 years. My entire ecosystem is Mac and I remained with mac through the dark 90s. What apple has does in the past 2 years is unbelieveable. I just upgraded to 10.86, then 10.9, no end of problems.
I can no longer mirror and of my monitors VGA or HDMI, my itunes which supplies iphone and ipad has disabled podcast app so that I can't listen to my favorite programs and I find out after the fact that Office software is not compatible with OSX 8.6.
Forget about the fact that itunes looks like it was developed by a 1980s MS-DOS programmer. Its kludgy, limited and generally does not work.
What does one do? Frankly, I used to use macs because they were like info appliances that just worked. Now the time to manage tech glitches from the company has become way too costly. Sadly, Apple has become Microsoft and Microsoft seems to become Apple.

"... as do the users who are downloading recent OSXs in record numbers."
USUALLY YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU DOWNLOAD UNTIL YOU HAVE IT !!!
APPLE USED TO HAVE GREAT STUFF BUT OBVIOUSLY TRIES TO INVENT FOR THE SAKE OF INVENTING !!!
THIS IS ACTUALLY A STEP BACKWARDS (TO MS).
CALENDAR & CONTACTS SYNC VIA ICLOUD ONLY IS AN ABSOLUTE NO GO !!!
@APPLE: FIX THIS ASAP !!!

Anyone having problems with "The Dark Knight" digital copy?

I downloaded the digital copy of "The Dark Knight" onto itunes by using a redeem code that came with the dvd set. The movie downloaded, but when I try to watch it there is no picture or sound even though the timer is activated. I emailed itunes support and they told me to uninstall then reinstall itunes, quicktime, and other apple software. I followed their instructions, but the movie still plays with no picture or sound. Anyone have similar problems? Or a solution?

im having the same trouble with a digital copy of star trek i just keep getting a grey screen no audio or visual.
ive just had a good scroll through some off the answered questions one thing you could try is deauthorizing your computer form itunes and then reauthorizing it. hopefully this should work for u.
Message was edited by: SolarisG

Since update, no keyboard clicks, apps are without sound, and searching with Duck Duck Goose is like going back to the dark ages. Yet another release not well tested.

SSince the update, I have no keyboard clicks on my iPad, no sound on many of the apps, And searching with the Duck is like going back to the dark ages. I hate Google but at least it works! I am getting soooo tired of releases that aren't fully de-bugged before they're released.

http://www.apple.com/feedback/
is the proper avenue to send comments to apple

When I adjust the color of a photo with FADE, how do I get it to save that version? the print seems to be the darker version.

When I adjust a photo using FADE how do I save that version? The print prints out as the darker, original version and I want it lighter.

Nevermind, I found another example that has this option.

How do I prevent the Darker Shade Box (color shift) around Vector Objects when Printing

Sorry in advance for the novelette. I am absolutely mystified and frustrated and would love some help! I've been working on this problem for about 30 hours over the last 4 days to figure out what the heck is happening and cannot find an answer through various forms of research.
Basically, when I print a JPEG, I am getting this area (a box) of darker shaded coloring around my heart and love text. I've tested it a million different ways and am at a loss as to what the problem is ... is it an application problem, a color profile problem between my applications and printer, an improper way that I saved my file, etc.
Here is a photo I took of the image printed out (so it is slightly skewed from camera distortion):
The details:
(1) I create graphic art and sell it online. I save all of my printable art as JPEG files because of my customer base (diy hobbyists that print on their home printers without much knowledge base nor graphic design software).
(2) I use both Adobe Illustrator (AI) and Photoshop Elements 11 (PSE11) to design and save my artwork.
(3) I insert JPEG images into Microsoft Word 2003 documents to "test print" since most of my customers use home printers to print. Since most people have this basic software, it is a good gauge of the kind of print out they might get using the same or similar software.
(4) My PSE11 color profile setting is the default sRGB. I have test printed many times and I get the truest colors with this color profile.
(5) My AI color settings are normally also an sRGB color mode, but on occasion, I use a CMYK color mode if I am creating a larger document that I know the customer will need to take to a professional printer to print out.
(6) I do my home printing (for proofs) on an Epson Stylus Photo 1400 (which has the 6 color ink cartridges).
(7) Until this printing problem occurred on this test print out, I always used the "photo enhance" option when I designate settings for my printer via the Microsoft Word documents.
IMPORTANT: This is when I have the color shift?? or color rendering issues?? and it is the only time. If I use the regular ICM/ICC color profile of sRGB, the printing issue doesn't occur. Instead, I have a solid color background instead of this one with the strips of lighter color on the top and bottom. However, I can't control how the customer prints, so I need to feel confident that whatever color profile setting they use, they will not run into this problem. I even test printed the documents over at FedEx and the darker box/color shift did not occur.
(8) The document in question only has 3 sets of objects: the heart, the solid colored rectangle colored background and the text. All 3 objects are vectors, they are at 100% opacity and there are no "special effects" applied.
(9) The image was entirely created in AI this time and exported as a maximum quality JPEG file, although you will see below that I tried many ways to create and save the file so that I didn't have the color band borders on top/bottom.
(10) I regularly use AI for part of my art, then I drag it to my PSE11 open document and it becomes a Vector Object (it cannot by copying/pasting into a PSE11 document). I also regularly export AI images as PNG files, then insert them into an open PSE11 document. This printing issue has not occurred until recently. Here is an example of a very complex AI image I created, then inserted into PSE11 just to add the background (the Teddy Bear and books are AI vector objects) that were exported as PNG files then inserted into PSE11 to integrate with the background image - I test printed with Photo Enhance and had no printing issues:
So, from the research I have done, it looks like it is a color rendering or color space issue with conflicting color profiles in the same document. I checked my color profile settings and both sRGB and CMYK were set to embed ICC color profiles.
I tried changing AI settings to Preserve Numbers (ignore linked profiles) for CMYK, but that didn't work.
I also checked and made sure that not only the document setup showed the sRGB color profile, but that all the objects within the document also were converted to sRGB as well for consistency. That didn't work.
I tried converting the document to CMYK along with the vector objects. That didn't work.
I tried saving the heart image as a PNG file alone, the "love" text as a PNG file alone, both the heart and text together as a PNG files alone. Once saved as PNG files, I inserted them into an open empty PSE11 document - as I normally do. I then added the background color I wanted. That didn't work - the print still showed the color changes.
I tried dragging each vector object separately and even as a group and got the same color change issue when printing.
I tried "expanding" and "outlining" the text before exporting as JPEG, before exporting as a PNG and before dragging as a vector object into PSE11. Expanding the text did not help the situation.
I tried exporting as Adobe PDF, then opening in PSE11, then resaving as JPEG. That didn't work.
I tried flattening transparency (even though there is no transparency in the AI file). That didn't work.
I tried rasterizing the image. That didn't work.
Thinking that the file might be corrupt, I started from scratch and redesigned the same heart and love text. Unfortunately, I had the same problem as before. At this point, my AI started becoming buggy and would not open new files. It happened repeatedly and I decided it was best to uninstall and reinstall AI (and maybe that would fix the problem).
I created just the heart in AI, then inserted it into an open PSE11 document (both after exporting as PNG and also by dragging as Vector Object from AI). It seemed to work. I could both drag the vector into PSE11 from AI and export from AI as a PNG, then insert into open PSE11 document with a background color - and it printed a solid background.
So, I thought that reinstalling and setting back to defaults worked. But, then I added the love text around the heart and tried exporting as JPEG files and the same problem continued to recur. Whether I dragged as a Vector object into PSE11 (the heart object and love text separately and also another time with the vector objects dragged as a group) or saved them as PNG files and inserted into PSE11 - I got the different shades of color on what should be a solid background. I even tried saving the PSE11 as a PSD file first, then resaving as JPEG and I tried saving as PNG and printing and this didn't help solve the problem.
I really think it is some color conflict issue but I can't figure it out. I am definitely not very knowledgeable about color profiles and how to sync all my devices, however, as I mentioned, this was not an issue until recently (and I think??? I recall changing the CMYK setting from Preserve Numbers to embed color profile a month or so ago - however, it should have been solved when AI went back to its defaults upon reinstall).
The reason I believe it is a color rendering/color space issue is because I could see the color output when I saved the JPEG with CMYK color profile versus sRGB color profile and the sRGB colors were much richer, not surprisingly. The top and bottom colors matched the sRGB printout and the middle darker box section matched the CMYK printout.
I am sure it is something fundamental or simple and I am completely overlooking it. I wish it were just a transparency issue, because people know how to fix or do workarounds for it. But, there are no vector objects with any transparency ...
If I missed some detail, I apologize. Any help would be a dream come true at this point! lol
Thank you!

Okay, I got motivated to try again. From doing a bit more research on troubleshooting AI printing problems, the Adobe article talks about print drivers. It was advised to uninstall and reinstall the print driver if the printing issue persists. So, I did. Unfortunately, I still had the same result after reinstalling and trying a test print! Ugh.
So, as Jacob said upfront, I seem to have an overactive print driver that is trying too hard (and it is a non-postscript printer which I realize is part of the problem).
There are so many variables in my situation as to how I create art and save/export art. I sometimes work solely in AI, sometimes solely in PSE and sometimes I use both programs to create. Consequently, I will:
(1) export directly from AI as JPEG if I am not adding PSE11 artwork.
(2) export directly from AI as PNG if I plan on inserting that image into PSE11 to add to artwork I have created in PSE11.
(3) drag vector objects as a Smart Objects directly from AI to PSE11 to add to artwork I am creating in PSE11 if I know I will playing with the vector object and resizing in PSE11.
So, I did a test print using scenario 2, where I inserted the heart and love text PNG (AI created vector object) into an old PSE11 document. This old document already had a vector object from AI with a solid background and I knew it printed correctly. So, after inserting this new PNG from AI into this old document, it printed correctly using the photo enhance mode.
However, I haven't had a chance to actually create new art in the older AI files (that I know print properly), resave as something else and try another test print (either by exporting as JPEG and printing in Word or by exporting as PNG file and inserting into PSE11 document, then saving as JPEG and printing in Word).
After testing the different possibilities of ICM settings within my printer, I found that the JPEG images printed out with the truest colors and best quality if I simply selected "no color management" from the printer. Shocker, huh? lol
MY SOLUTION: So, what I think I will simply do is add an instruction sheet with the printables I sell, explaining that the color profile setting should never be handled by the printer so make sure to turn off color management by printer (and if they feel they must use the printer for color management, make sure the setting is sRGB since I embed that color profile in my JPEG's).
Edited to add: Since my issue was never about how I could print a successful image (I knew I could simply change the color profile settings), but rather about how to make sure that customers would get consistent and high quality print outputs of my digital images, this seems like the best approach.
I don't think I will every really know exactly why I am now getting color shifts in the "photo enhance" mode when I did not have this problem a couple months ago - applying the same methods of creating artwork. I was concerned that I was saving/exporting using incorrect or mismatched color settings or something of that nature. However, since I went through the process of making my color spaces the same for everything, and I still have issue, clearly that is not the culprit. The only thing I can do to solve the problem and it is a straightforward solution anyway -> is to educate the buyer on how to print successfully (don't use photo enhance! ha ha).
Thanks again to everyone who chimed in and offered advice!

Why does my iPhone 5 take very grainy flash photographs in the dark will a hard reboot be safe to do to try to fix or is it a hardware issue?

Why does my iPhone 5 take very grainy flash photographs in the dark will a hard reboot be safe to do to try to fix or is it a hardware issue?
And By hard boot I mean holding the home and power button down at the same time for 10 seconds or whatever
I see other people have these grainy flash photographs if you try to take a picture in darkness the picture comes out very dark and grainy I thought the software would ultimately fix this but it's been going on for over a year I usually take my photographs in daylight but I need this to be fixed
If it is a hardware issue I hope Apple will replace my iPhone 5 because I was just waiting for one of the iOS updates to fix it I bought my phone in November 2012 its the iPhone 5
Please help or advise if you can was this just a software or hardware issue I know Apple was aware of it but I was advised that iOS update would fix it but obviously not
Is it safe to do a hard boot on my iPhone five by holding the power and home button at the same time for 10 or 20 seconds I saw someone said that fixed there's at least temporarily
I'm typing this on my iPhone five right now why do the words go off to the left and right no matter if I hold the phone vertical or horizontal the words bleed off to left right so for me to proofread it I have to move my text left to right to proof read it
Thank you

The flash on a smartphone camera is tiny. It only lights up a very small area right in front of the camera. It won't light up the whole scene.
Have you seen the size of the flash on a professional camera? Even they can't light a whole scene in the dark.
Fact is, a smartphone camera is not capable of taking good photos in the dark, even with the flash.
You'll need to buy and learn how to use a professional, dedicated SLR camera to be able to take good photos in the dark. It is not easy.

WHen I first installed iOS 6 the App Store crashes...and now having iOS 6 for 2 weeks now, all my apps are buggy and now are crashing! Safari and built in apps are becoming slow and crash. I hate how apple leaves iPod touch 4g and iPhone 4 in the dark.

WHen I first installed iOS 6 the App Store crashes...and now having iOS 6 for 2 weeks now, all my apps are buggy and now are crashing! Safari and built in apps are becoming slow and crash. I hate how apple leaves iPod touch 4g and iPhone 4 in the dark and basically force us to upgrade to newer devices. Apple could of done better with the update and needs to resolve these issues.

Try:
- Reset the iPod. Nothing will be lost
Reset iPod touch: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Reset all settings
Go to Settings > General > Reset and tap Reset All Settings.
All your preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected.
- Restore from backup
- Restore to factory settings/new iPod.
- Make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar
The App store crashing is a known problem.
IOS 6 App store crash: Apple Support Communities

What on earth is the deal with my MBP?

My MacBook Pro has been showing weird and kind of major problems ever since I exchanged the internal Hitachi hard drive for an OWC Mercury Extreme Pro 6G. Sometimes, not too often, when I boot it doesn't detect the SSD. I get either a screen like this or, if I option-boot (because I have two OS X installs on it), a screen like this. Once I booted from an external drive when this was happening and I checked Disk Utility which didn't list the SSD in the sidebar at all. Just rebooting once or twice has fixed this problem for me so far. But I find it very strange that it happens from time to time, and seemingly very randomly. I am sure I attached the SATA connector to the SSD correctly when I installed the SSD, and it's only ever at boot time that it doesn't get detected sometimes, so it can't be like a loose contact. In addition, the last time the problem fixed itself I didn't physically move the machine in any way between rebooting, and I often carry this MacBook Pro around without any problems while it's running.
Except... a new problem arose today and my gut feeling is that it was caused by whatever is causing the SSD to not be detected at boot sometimes. I booted from my Lion partition and left the computer for a minute. When I came back I heard the fans spinning a lot faster than they should have been – but there was literally nothing running, just a clean desktop with a default wallpaper! What's more is when I checked the temperature of the enclosure with my hands it felt way too cool for the fans to be this loud. The cursor was beachballin' endlessly and the screen was completely frozen (not even the clock worked).
The last thing that I've noticed is that sometimes it takes a really long time to shut down (like >15 seconds), and it's not because of any updates. This being an SSD I expect it should be able to shut down very quickly and do so consistently, especially given that this is a fresh OS X install with barely any of the capacity being used.
There is one thing I have to mention which may be the cause of these problems, although I find it unlikely. One of the partitions on the SSD has OS X Snow Leopard 10.6.8 installed which I regularly use, but this model of MacBook Pro (Late 2011) does not officially support running Snow Leopard on it. I haven't noticed any issues with it so far aside from a minor graphics problem (Amnesia: The Dark Descent wont run in fullscreen) that isn't confirmed. It shouldn't be a surprise because the hardware is nearly identical to the Early 2011 models which originally shipped with Snow Leopard.
Any insights or advice is appreciated.

I think the issue is your partition.
Why don't you, if you have time to kill, is to make your first partition Lion and your second partition Snow Leopard.
Make Lion your primary since that's what came with your Macbook originally.
While it's true that Snow Leopard was the default OS on the early 2011, Lion however was the default for the late 2011 which was optimized for you Macbook.
Again, that's only a theory/suggestion. I could be wrong.

In the dark with PSE7

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