Incase Slider - Gun Metal

Just picked up the Gun Metal incase slider today for my 3GS. This case is flippin' sweet! Love the look and feel while holding it. I had an old Slider for my 3G that was hard as **** to get off, this is not that way. Just wanted to comment, very nice case!

Jerryb wrote:
Hi
I have a black slider for my 2g iPhone. I took it off a couple of months ago to clean the phone and noticed that a few grains of sand had gotten into the case at some point. I golf so I do occasionally spend some time in the sand!!
lol, i try to stay away from the sand but my ball still finds it sometimes.
i have the black Incase Slider for my 3GS and LOVE the tight fit. it doesnt move and i like how the case is really thin. i also got some plugs for my USB power plug and headphone jack so no dirt/lint can get anywhere.

Similar Messages

3GS with Incase Slider dropped 4 feet onto NYC Cement

Hello Everyone,
A couple days back my iPhone 3GS flew out of my back pocket while going for a mid air chest bump with a fellow gentleman.
It had the Incase Slider case on it with 'shock absorbing' tracks inside of the case.
There was no cosmetic damage to the phone however it suffered a loud smack on some NYC cement and made my heart stop.
If any damage were to have occurred inside what components are most susceptible to damage and how could I test their health?

asilagy wrote:
Does anyone know the name of a utility which could test these things?
I don't think you have much to worry about, the iPhone probably passes some drop tests that exceed what you did. If you had dropped it into a puddle of water, you'd be out of luck. With the case on it, and I know the Incase Slider is solid, I doubt anything bad will happen. Relax.

Incase Slider, top bit slides off not the bottom bit for me!!

Hi I just got a iPhone 3G S⃣ and a n Incase Slider. However when I try to pull off the bottom bit of the case for docking, its the top it that moves and slides off.
Obviously I dont want this as I suspect it may scratch the back of the iPhone when doing this. to get the bottom off I really have to dig in my nails and force it off.
What am I doing wrong? please help, its a great case apart from that
cheers

Cheers, I got it off like that, although the top bit of the case stil slips down and bit and it takes more force to come off than I imagined it would.
Is yours as tough to get off?
I have an iPod dock upstairs, and have removed the older plastic dock connector for my daughters nano and put no dock connector in, and I can now charge my iPhone without removing even the bottom bit of the case.
Suppose it may get easier the more it comes off and on?
Has the back of your iPhone been scratched by the incase slider at all? either the slide bottom bit or the top bit? Its just I have a front InvisibleShield cover on, but got warned not to put the rear cover on as the incase slider wouldnt fit? to be honest would rather have the full cover InvisibleShield on but got advised in forums wouldnt fit, only the front cover
cheers

Incase Slider for 3G

Anyone get this case yet? What are your thoughts if so?
I heard the original Incase Slider for the v1 Iphone was a great case.

Just picked one up last night....
Great case....fits like a glove and makes the phone lest likely to fall off my lap.
The black matte is what they had at the apple stores. Got the last one at mine!!

Incase slider 3GS replacement?

Ive searched high and low for an answer, not sure if this is the right place the post this.
Im in the UK and bought the incase slider from the apple website last week.
The bottom section doesnt fit right, its far too tight and after doing some internet research ive discovered this is a common problem and that some of the incase slider cases are tighter than others... and I should call apple and get a replacement.
Last wednesday I phoned them and arranged a replacement.
I was told I'd get an email confirmation, and that somebody would phone me with in 24 hours to arrange to collect my current case.
Its now Sunday and ive had to email or phone call.
No idea what to do and there phone support isnt on over the weekend which I think is great! hehe
Anybody with a similar experience in the past?
Shud I wait a cuple more days?
Cheers

One more time, apparently you are having a little difficulty with posts today. The OP, in his first post said: "...and bought the incase slider from the apple website last week."
Which would mean he purchased it from the Apple ONLINE Store. Unless he becomes a virtual person he will have a hard time going back to the Store where it was bough. The other poster had the right answer, call or email the Apple Online Store and check on it.
I'm not in the UK and I do typically return products to the store where I bought them. Unless I bough them online, where I have to do it through shipping, or if it was purchased at Fry's where they direct me to deal with the manufacturer.

Incase slider case with a screen protector....

I was wondering if anyone has the Incase Slider case yet...and if so, is anyone using a screen protector with it? If so...which one are you using and do you have any issues with getting the case on with a screen protector on? The reason I'm asking is because I was using the ifrogz luxe case and I could not find a screen protector that I could get the case on without the screen protector coming back up at the edges. I now have the Incase Slider case and before I waste anymore money trying to get another screen protector, I'd like to find one that works without coming up at the edges. Anyone have any recommendations on what is working for them? Thanks in advance!

i just recently bought the incase slider since they are new to market for the iPhone 4. when i bought the incase slider from best buy i also purchased the zagg invisible shield and i asked if they could install it for me cuz im bad at doing those kind of things and the guy from best buy mobile said that he would be more than happy to install it. It costs another $8 for them to install it for you (generally takes 15-20 min to install but they do a really good job). By the time he finished i had to wait a day for the invisible shield to fully dry but once it was i slid the incase slider case on my iPhone 4 and it fit perfectly without the screen protector coming up.

INCASE Slider Case - 3GS (and 3G)

Just got this matte black slider case, that I like because it covers all of the shiny bits on my black 3GS iPhone. Has anyone used this case before and have an opinion on its durability? It has a very snug fit, but looks like it may be easy to scratch the finish. Otherwise, it seems pretty decent.

While I don't specifically recommend any product as I no longer have my 3GS, this is the ONLY (emphasis on ONLY) case that I used and found comfortable, chic, and durable enough to outlast my phone. I dropped my phone from about 5' on solid concrete and the case cracked before my phone was damaged...
INCase makes a good product.

Incase Slider

Does anyone have this case for the 3g? I heard good reviews about the old one for the 1st gen and am wondering if i should get one?
Opinions?

I just bought it yesterday. It fits very nicely over the iPhone. Only one issue I see right now is the case adds a little height to the headphone jack. I have a cord I use in my car to hook up to the stereo and it wouldn't seat all the way down. I almost turned around and took it back to the Apple Store. When I got home my Shure headphone jack would seat OK and I assume the earbud jack that comes with the iPhone will also. Fit and finish seem very nice. I highly recommend the Crystal film screen protector to round out the package for total protection.

Incase Slider for iPod touch (2nd Gen.)

No biggy, but I'm looking for a good case for my touch & was looking at this one. However, some reviews elsewhere state that the case has a rubberised (or rubbery) coating on it, whereas the product info on the Apple Store state it has a high gloss coating. Has anyone got one of these bought from the Apple Store who could clear this up for me? If there is, what are your other thoughts about this product also.
Many thanks.

its because there is no more updates for the second gen ipod touch. it was cut off from the updates awhile ago, Sorry

Best case for 3GS that wont scratch the phone (metal lining)

I've had the silicon cases before and they would always cause scratches on the metal part of the phone which was always annoying (most likely due to debris rubbing against it when the silicon case moved around). I was looking at the Incase Slider and it seemed that this would be a good case. Anyone have any issues with this case or can recommend a good case for it?

Just finished applying the Zagg Invisible Shield to my new iPhone 3GS and it's fantastic! Elegant and durable while retaining the sexy form factor of the phone itself.
It has been mentioned that it looks overwhelming to apply. I can't stress enough watching the videos on the site a few times to 'run through the motions.' It's imperative that you are in a dust free environment, work with a lint-free cloth, clean your hands really well and keep your fingertips and the adhesive film wet at all times.
What it lacks in speed of application, it more than makes up for in protection with no added bulk.
Just my two cents.

Cure to the Zen Micro headphone ja

[url="http://www.noboundrees.com/Micro_Fix/">
Zen Micro Audio Jack Fix[/url]
I haven't tried this yet, so use procautions. If anyone knows if this is legit, please give a reply.

Yes, I did and it works!
Got a Zen Micro with a headphone jack problem? I fixed mine very easily. This could also help with other models too. Here?s how:
Note: disassembling your unit will void any remaining warrantee.
Problem: The headphone jack solder joints get cracked from the prying force of the headphone plug. This force could be especially severe if you carry your player in your pocket and you?re not careful. It is an engineering problem but unfortuanately hard to prevent on any pocket device due to the design of the industry standard mini-phono headphone plug exerting prying force on the jack.
You?ll need a tiny Phillips screwdriver, a small pocket knife or small flat screwdriver, a fine soldering iron and some rosin-core solder, and a hot-melt glue gun.
Begin by sliding the on/off/lock switch to the locked position. Pry up the plastic jack face plate cover. It?s just stuck on with glue. You can replace it again when finished. This exposes two tiny Phillips-head screws. Remove them.
Slide the battery cover door off. Remove the battery. You?ll notice a metal plate under the battery that serves among other things, to secure the white plastic back cover to the main chassis of the player, and that the metal plate has two tabs that are inserted into slots at the top by the three gold battery contacts. Using your fingernail, slide the metal plate downward away from the battery contacts end. This will disengage the chassis from the back cover.
Use a small screwdriver to gently pry the bottom of the case out away from the chassis. This disengages a catch holding the chassis to the body. With the bottom of the case pried out, press on the metal plate down a the bottom at the small white circular Creative Labs warrantee seal to swing the chassis out from the white plastic back cover. Gently remove it all the way and set the player chassis aside in a safe place.
You?ll notice a small circuit board with the jacks and switch in the top of the back cover. It is held to the cover by two tiny Phillips-head screws. Remove them. Remove the circuit board from the back cover. The screws also hold a small metal cover over the jacks. Remove it.
Carefull remove the existing hot-melt glue from the factory. Take special care not to knick anything with your knife and don?t simply rip the hot melt off, but carefully cut and/or peel it off gently so as not to damage anything.
Notice 4 leads from the headphone jack are soldered onto the circuit board. If you look closely you?ll probably see that one or more are loose. It's usually the top right one between the headphone and USB jacks. * Solder them again, using more solder than was previously used, but don?t put too much on the top left one as it could come into contact with the little metal jack cover when it is replaced. Solder the 4 USB jack leads (outer cover ones) and the 4 on/off/lock switch leads while you?re at it. Replace the small metal cover to make sure the solder joints for the headphone jack don't come into contact with it.
Now you?ll want to secure the jacks so that the newly repaired solder joints are not stressed and broken again... but TEST THE REPAIR NOW before glueing. Apply a generous amount of hot-melt adhesi've to the sides, backs and tops of the jacks and IMMEDIATELY replace the small metal cover pressing it quickly down until the mounting holes align. Very carfully remove any excess, taking extreme care not to knick anything.
Replace the circuit board into the back cover and replace the screws. Pay special attention to the fit. Make sure any extra hot-melt you may have missed removing isn?t interfering with the fit.
Carefully reassemble the chassis into the back cover, paying special attention to properly align and connect the two socket connectors on either side of the boards, and pressing firmly to ensure proper connectivity. Check the fit. Make sure the top of the display face is exactly aligned flush with the cover when reassembled. Check all the edges of the front face to ensure they are all aligned flush with their corresponding sides of the back cover.
Replace the small screws on the top by the jacks that attach the back cover to the chassis.
Replace the stick-on plastic top-end face plate. Slide the metal plate in the battery compartment back up into the locked position. Make sure the 4 tabs on the sides of the plate lock over the corresponding tabs in the sides of the back cover (you can see through 4 holes in the sides)
Replace the battery and battery cover. Turn the power on. If successful, have a listen. You should hear both sides of the audio while wiggling the headphone plug.
It?s too bad you have to go through this but your Zen Micro is definitely worth the effort to fix, which you will agree having done it, is easier than it seemed like it would be. You shouldn?t have to do it again, but with the hot-melt for adhesi've, you can, using a little heat.
* Alternately you can use epoxy cement instead of hotmelt. I personally perefer this method but you have to be competent at electronics rework technicques, in particular, de-soldering of the jack. If you're not comfortable with this then just use the hot-melt. You'll need to de-solder the four jack leads from the circuit board pads and remove the jack. Make sure the leads are straight. Dry-fit the jack to make sure the leads aren't bent from the removal process and dry-test on the pcb to make sure the leads line up with the pads. Mix a pea-sized blob of epoxy cement and apply some on the bottom of the jack, but not enough that it will squish out and interfere with the cover, and position it back on the pcb. Place the jack on the board and line up the leads again on the pads. Re-solder the leads, replace the metal cover, and screw down the cover right away. (don't over-tighten) Reassemble and enjoy.

Headphone Jack def

Got a Zen Micro with a headphone jack problem? I fixed mine very easily. This could also help with other models too. Here?s how:
Note: disassembling your unit will void any remaining warrantee.
Problem: The headphone jack solder joints get cracked from the prying force of the headphone plug. This force could be especially severe if you carry your player in your pocket and you?re not careful. It is an engineering problem but unfortuanately hard to prevent on any pocket device due to the design of the industry standard mini-phono headphone plug exerting prying force on the jack.
You?ll need a tiny Phillips screwdriver, a small pocket knife or small flat screwdriver, a fine soldering iron and some rosin-core solder, and a hot-melt glue gun.
Begin by sliding the on/off/lock switch to the locked position. Pry up the plastic jack face plate cover. It?s just stuck on with glue. You can replace it again when finished. This exposes two tiny Phillips-head screws. Remove them.
Slide the battery cover door off. Remove the battery. You?ll notice a metal plate under the battery that serves among other things, to secure the white plastic back cover to the main chassis of the player, and that the metal plate has two tabs that are inserted into slots at the top by the three gold battery contacts. Using your fingernail, slide the metal plate downward away from the battery contacts end. This will disengage the chassis from the back cover.
Use a small screwdriver to gently pry the bottom of the case out away from the chassis. This disengages a catch holding the chassis to the body. With the bottom of the case pried out, press on the metal plate down a the bottom at the small white circular Creative Labs warrantee seal to swing the chassis out from the white plastic back cover. Gently remove it all the way and set the player chassis aside in a safe place.
You?ll notice a small circuit board with the jacks and switch in the top of the back cover. It is held to the cover by two tiny Phillips-head screws. Remove them. Remove the circuit board from the back cover. The screws also hold a small metal cover over the jacks. Remove it.
Carefull remove the existing hot-melt glue from the factory. Take special care not to knick anything with your knife and don?t simply rip the hot melt off, but carefully cut and/or peel it off gently so as not to damage anything.
Notice 4 leads from the headphone jack are soldered onto the circuit board. If you look closely you?ll probably see that one or more are loose. It's usually the top right one between the headphone and USB jacks. * Solder them again, using more solder than was previously used, but don?t put too much on the top left one as it could come into contact with the little metal jack cover when it is replaced. Solder the 4 USB jack leads (outer cover ones) and the 4 on/off/lock switch leads while you?re at it. Replace the small metal cover to make sure the solder joints for the headphone jack don't come into contact with it.
Now you?ll want to secure the jacks so that the newly repaired solder joints are not stressed and broken again... If you have any doubts about your re-soldering job you might want to take a few minutes and reassemble and test the repair before using the hot melt. When ready, apply a generous amount of hot-melt adhesi've to the sides, backs and tops of the jacks and IMMEDIATELY replace the small metal cover pressing it quickly down until the mounting holes align. Very carfully remove any excess, taking extreme care not to knick anything.
Replace the circuit board into the back cover and replace the screws. Pay special attention to the fit. Make sure any extra hot-melt you may have missed removing isn?t interfering with the fit.
Carefully reassemble the chassis into the back cover, paying special attention to properly align and connect the two socket connectors on either side of the boards, and pressing firmly to ensure proper connectivity. Check the fit. Make sure the top of the display face is exactly aligned flush with the cover when reassembled. Check all the edges of the front face to ensure they are all aligned flush with their corresponding sides of the back cover.
Replace the small screws on the top by the jacks that attach the back cover to the chassis. 
Replace the stick-on plastic top-end face plate. Slide the metal plate in the battery compartment back up into the locked position. Make sure the 4 tabs on the sides of the plate lock over the corresponding tabs in the sides of the back cover (you can see through 4 holes in the sides)
Replace the battery and battery cover. Turn the power on. If successful, have a listen. You should hear both sides of the audio while wiggling the headphone plug.
It?s too bad you have to go through this but your Zen Micro is definitely worth the effort to fix, which you will agree having done it, is easier than it seemed like it would be. You shouldn?t have to do it again, but with the hot-melt for adhesi've, you can, using a little heat.
* Alternately you can use epoxy cement instead of hotmelt. I personally perefer this method but you have to be competent at electronics rework technicques, in particular, de-soldering of the jack. If you're not comfortable with this then just use the hot-melt. You'll need to de-solder the four jack leads from the circuit board pads and remove the jack. Make sure the leads are straight. Dry-fit the jack to make sure the leads aren't bent from the removal process and dry-test on the pcb to make sure the leads line up with the pads. Mix a pea-sized blob of epoxy cement and apply some on the bottom of the jack, but not enough that it will squish out and interfere with the cover, and position it back on the pcb. Place the jack on the board and line up the leads again on the pads. Re-solder the leads, replace the metal cover, and screw down the cover right away. (don't over-tighten) Reassemble and enjoy.
Message Edited by watcher on 04-27-2006 0:46 PM

Very nice.. I didn't need to bother with all those words. Thanks!
I noticed when I looked at the site above mentioned by SSR that I missed the step about releasing the catch at the bottom of the unit that holds the chassis with the back cover. Hopefully I didn't cause anyone to bust off the tab by leaving this step out.
Still I think it's a good idea to use the glue or it will likely happen again. The solder pads are pretty small so they might not hold on their own... Still it's easy to take it apart and do it again... but the fewer times you have to do that the better, and also, the pads have been known to delaminate.. then you're stuck with having to use wires AND then you'll HAVE to use glue to hold the jack in place..
Message Edited by watcher on 2-22-2005 07:00 PM

Verizon Wireless iPhone 4 FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions:
Two models available:
Apple® - iPhone® 4 16GB Mobile Phone (Verizon Wireless) - Black
Apple® - iPhone® 4 32GB Mobile Phone (Verizon Wireless) - Black
When was the Verizon Wireless iPhone 4 made available at Best Buy®?
Thursday, February 10th, 2011.
What is the pricing for the Verizon Wireless iPhone 4 at Best Buy®?
$199 for the 16GB model and $299 for the 32GB model. A two-year agreement is required with a new activation or qualified upgrade.
Full retail price is $699.99 for the 16GB model and $799.99 for the 32GB model.
Verizon is not offering an early upgrade promotion.
Was there a pre-order available for the Verizon Wireless iPhone 4 at Best Buy®?
No. Units were sold on a first come, first served basis. No reservations were accepted.
What plans are available with the Verizon Wireless iPhone 4?
Standard Verizon Wireless plans. All iPhone 4 subscribers on Verizon Wireless will be required to subscribe to a $29.99 monthly unlimited data plan.
Is the Verizon Wireless iPhone 4 available for ordering on BestBuy.com?
In store pickup orders are accepted on BestBuy.com.
How do I know if I qualify for the discounted pricing if I am an existing customer wanting to upgrade?
Existing Verizon Wireless customers may check their eligibility here: http://www.bestbuymobile.com/upgradechecker
If I have existing iOS software applications from an iPhone or iPad, can I sync them with the Verizon Wireless iPhone 4?
Yes, you may use iTunes to sync as normal.
Can I use my existing iPhone from AT&T on a Verizon Wireless account?
No, the two phone versions use different cellular technology to communicate with the network.
Can I keep my phone number from another wireless network?
Yes, check the number portability here: http://bbym.us/VZWPort
Accessories:
There are subtle differences in the design of the Verizon Wireless iPhone 4 due to an antenna redesign. Therefore, existing iPhone 4 accessories may not fit the new design. Accessories available for the iPhone 4 in our stores will be labeled accordingly. Please see a Best Buy Mobile associate for details.
Will my existing power and data cables for the iPhone 4 remain the same?
Yes, this has not changed.
Will my existing screen protector or screen protectors made for the AT&T iPhone 4 work with the Verizon Wireless version?
Yes, the screen dimensions have not changed.
Will my existing case or cases made for the AT&T iPhone 4 work with the Verizon Wireless version?
It might attach but will not be an exact fit. We will have cases available for the Verizon Wireless iPhone 4.
New accessories that will fit all versions of iPhone 4:
2023379
Griffin Technology - Elan Form Shell for
Apple iPhone 4 (Verizon Wireless) - Graphite
1974688
Rocketfish™ Mobile - Soft Gel Case for
Apple® iPhone® 4 (Verizon Wireless) - Black
Existing accessories that will fit all versions of iPhone 4:
1288863
iFrogz - Luxe Case and Ozone Earbud
Headphones for Apple® iPhone® 4 - Red/Black
1288845
iFrogz - Luxe Case and Ozone Earbud Headphones for Apple® iPhone® 4 -
Red/Black
1039355
iFrogz - Case For Apple iPhone 4 - Red/Black
1040147
iFrogz - Case For Apple iPhone 4 - Blue/Black
1288854
iFrogz - Luxe Case and Ozone Earbud Headphones for Apple® iPhone® 4 -
Pink/Silver
1258523
iFrogz - Luxe Lean Phase Case for Apple® iPhone® 4 - Clear/Slate
1258587
iFrogz - Luxe Lean Phase Case for Apple® iPhone® 4 - Clear/Mulberry
1258541
iFrogz - Luxe Lean Phase Case for Apple® iPhone® 4 - Clear/Azure
1258514
iFrogz - Luxe Lean Phase Case for Apple® iPhone® 4 - Clear/Lime
1155475
Incase - Slider Case for Apple® iPhone® 4 -
Black
1155439
Incase - Slider Case for Apple® iPhone® 4 - White
1155615
Incase - Slider Case for Apple® iPhone® 4 - Gunmetal
1155679
Incase - Slider Case for Apple® iPhone® 4 - Dark Mauve
1155402
Incase - Slider Case for Apple® iPhone® 4 - Grape
1155457
Incase - Slider Case for Apple® iPhone® 4 - Ink
1155466
Incase - Slider Case for Apple® iPhone® 4 - Blueberry
For all cases that fit the Verizon iPhone 4, click here.
Apple, the Apple logo, iPhone, and Multi-Touch are trademarks of
Apple Inc. TM & © 2010 Apple Inc. All rights reserved. BEST BUY, the
BEST BUY logo, the tag design plus the BEST BUY MOBILE logo are
trademarks of Best Buy Enterprise Service, Inc. TM and © 2010 Apple Inc.
All rights reserved.
The iPhone 4 on Verizon Wireless retails for $199 for 16GB model and $299 for the 32GB model with a new or qualified upgrade with two-year agreement.
Jacob|Web Planner | Best Buy® Corporate

I am not a techy, but I am usually able to describe to the support people the exact conditions under which errors occur. Why this issue that we are both having, as common as it is (do a search and you will see it everywhere), is not common knowledge is beyond me.
To review my situation: If I was hooked to a Wi-Fi connection, I had no problem receiving or sending emails from my Time Warner account. Once I disabled the Wi-Fi switch on iPhone (as if I were out of range, traveling) and tried to send a message with my TW email account, I got the error message that it "could not identify" the server and then the email would go to my outbox.
I think I have found the answer after about an hour on the phone: a call to Time Warner who eventually urged me to call Verizon about outgoing server settings, a call to Verizon who told me that the problem was with TW and their settings, a call again to Time Warner, and finally I received a call from Verizon tech support to make sure I got my answer from Time Warner! The short answer is: Time Warner has an issue/limitation (Perhaps with the 3G network?)
*The second call to TW revealed what Verizon support suspected....YOU NEED TO BE ON A WI-FI TO SEND EMAILS VIA TW. No problem ever receiving--just sending.* I hope this sheds some more light on your situation. Not a major deal for me, (I'll probably use a gmail account), but it is good to know WHY something does not work. All parties were helpful and patient at least.

Help me choose a case!

have 5 criteria for an iphone case.
1. MOST IMPORTANT: cosmetic protection- especially drop protection
- this means I want a case that won't damage the iphone, that would defeat the purpose of the case
2. Something that doesn't add a lot of bulk
3. I want access to all ports, buttons, and touch screen. (I want minimal case coverage of the home button or area around home button & ear piece)
4. Reliable- I obviously don't want something that I will have to replace every month or so.
5. It needs to be able to go in and out of my pocket (at least moderately) easily.
This is what I've narrowed it down to:
1. Seidio Innocase- (http://www.seidioonline.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=936)
2. Agent 18 iPhone Shield- (http://www.agent18.com/scripts/prodview2.asp?idproductpages=21)
3. SwitchEasy Capusle-(http://www.switcheasy.com/iPhone.htm)
4. Incase Slider- (http://www.goincase.com/products/detail/slider-case-cl59044)
So lets hear your opinion; which case would satisfy my needs?
Message was edited by: dkthepk

Im not sure what you mean, the case stays on the phone all the time. You can access all buttons and jacks with the case on. It even comes with a universal dock adapter so you can leave the case on and charge it. The membrane covers the whole screen included the home button to keep all dirty and stuff out. Let me know if i answered your question
The only reason it comes with the headphone adapter is to fit the headphones that already dont fit in the iphone. the stereo headset still fits fine, and you do not need to remove anything to use the phone
oh yeah, unlike the agent 18 that just pushes together and then get loose after about a month or 30 removals. This case locks together, and wont loosen or come apart like some cases....
Message was edited by: e39krazy

Fresh z557 overhaul and now need drivers i never needed before

i have always loved this z557 media center for its very unique case and features, but a decade has passed and well, it needed a lil more gusto to keep up with modern times! and when the power supply burnt out for its 3rd time i decided its finally time to do a complete overhaul. i gutted out and updated everything but all the front panel components and pci cards. im not sure what all imformation on my new hardware is relavent so please ask and i will tell. i know these z series media centers were all intel processors, and i stayed with an asus mobo but went with an amd A8 processor and chipset instead, could that be the cause of my problems? i will also tell you this overhaul did require more than a few modifications that most people would likely not attempt. but i beleive everything to be connected as it should and all else functions as is should. so yes, i do have a strong understanding of computers and electronics in general, but on an amature/hobby level. i may have something connected wrong, but to best of my knowledge, the problem is just in finding drivers to these older components.
in the past, when i upgraded from windows xp to windows 7 (not changing any hardware) i never needed to install drivers for these components to work. other than the wifi and hauppauge tv cards, but those arnt very important to me right now beacuse im using LAN and netflix to watch tv. not sure if it makes any difference that those were 32bit versions and now im using 64bit, but anyways, lets just take this one issue at a time... and in order of importance
what i want is to keep functionality of the front panel LCD, wireless keyboard, IR remote, aswell as the tv tuner cards if possible for future use. i havnt tested the front composite AV inputs, 4pin 1394, 1/4 headphone out, 1/8 mic input yet beacause they arnt very important to me just yet, but are all part of the same circuit board in the front corner to the LCD keyboard and remote. the usb and card readers on the othe side work fine and the personal media drive was removed which is irrelevant anyhow. im just stuck on trying to figure out this annoying front panel display right now, so...
starting with the LCD display on the front. i used to have a DEC icon in my control panel window that gave me options for the brightness and such for it. i never had to install anything for it to work on first boot up. not even windows updates. yes, i had problems in the past with it not working perfectly, and hp website does have a patch for that, but its not an all inclusive driver to make the display work. how can it get it to show the time after windows is all booted up (like usual) and all its other functions working, instead of it just showing the welcome to the "hp digital entertainment center" marque over and over and over?
next is the IR remote. when i have a playlist playing (in windows media player) i could skip tracks, pause, change the volume... etc. with this remote, and now its entirely unrecognized. i dont believe it ever had an icon for options in the control panel. i beleive its power is fed from the same board the front panel display and 49MHz wireless keyboard, so id imagine it is getting power in the tower but no light to indicate its functioning, and batteries are good in the handheld, so ummm... yea
which leads me next to the awesome lil keyboard with track ball and such. again, i never had to install any specific drivers for it to work, but not sure if it was a windows update or something included from the windows os install disk. i always used a wired usb keyboard, and still do just for reliability. but ive put fresh batteries into the keyboard itself, and pushed the buttons to pair it up and... never seems to connect. the green light by the button on the front panel doesnt flash like it used to when receiving keyboard communications either. any number of attempts leads to same result.
last is the tv tuner cards. i removed the second card and only have the main one in with the 2 RF connections. hauppauge wintv pvr-26652 PCI II. its also the only search that brought me results in these forums here. which i did read and was about trouble with finding the proper drivers. this is also the only thing listed in the device manger as having an issue. but listen to this, there is a small wire harness that goes from the front panel board that connects to this tv tuner card. i dont know if they are reliant on each other in any way, or if its just to control the front LCD and function off the IR remote? but its connected, as well as the blue AAFP wire harness, and red harness to usb34. i cant think it would make any diffence connecting the red harness to the usb56... maybe ill try that next. my mobo is asus a78m-e
so any advice, links or things to try or check out would be greatly appreciated. thanks so much guys!

the only device brought to my attention in the device manager is the tv tuner card. Hauppauge wintv pvr pci ii (26xxx)
under sound, video and game controllers. there are 5 strings listed under value, if you only need the last one it is
PCI/VEN_4444&DEV_0016&CC_0400
on the general tab it opens up to, under device status it says: this device cannot find enough free resources that it can use. (code 12) if you want to use this device, you will need to disable one of the other devices on this system.
not sure exactly which devices it is refering to that i "need to disable". the only other listings on the sound, video and game controllers tree is: AMD high definition audio device and realtek high definition audio. seems strange to have two different audio drivers... but i do have a small s/pdif optical audio out card added. then on the face of the case (specific to the z series) in the lower left corner is the composite av inputs aswell as headphones and mic jacks. plus the integrated blue, green, pink eigth inch jacks on the back of the mobo.
i dont know if the IR remote and keyboard would be under human interface devices, keyboard devices or mice and other pointing devices. but the last string in all of them is HID_DEVICE
no idea which branch would contain the front panel lcd
i cant help but mention you have a fine taste in automobles! i had an '88 trans am gta for about 6 years. lt1, gun metal grey with grey cloth, same gold wheels. around the same time i had an '86 buick regal and found a set of those same cross lace wheels with the black centers. looked badass!

Incase Slider - Gun Metal

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