Inserting Still Photos

I am trying to create a video with still pictures and transitions. When I go to iphoto to insert the pics it only shows 20-25 of the pictures I have in the folder. Is there a limit to the number of photos I can insert? I want to do about 100 pics. When I open Iphoto on its own I see all 100 pics listed in the same folder. Please help soon. I am short on time.

I haven't experienced your issue, but I can give you a hint if you are short on time.
Create an album in iPhoto. Place the stills in the order you would like them to appear in the movie.
No open iMovie, and navigate to the photo browser. Find your album. Drag the icon for your iPhoto album into your Project. You will get all the pictures in the right order.

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I need to add text over a still photo in iMovie. Following directions that always worked before but not this time.

I am running OS 10.6.8, an upgrade that I did after Christmas. A couple of times a year, I need to make a video of my students' performances, and have always been able to add text over the still photos before, using the directions in iMovie "help." However, this time, I am not able to choose a title style; no amount of clicking makes anything show up on the selected still photo. And no amount of trying to choose the font style makes anything show up either.
This is iMovie 09; is it possible that it is not compatible with my OS upgrade?
I've been able to insert still photos into the video footage, but can't add any titles or acknowledgements. Thank you so much for your help! Since I only do this a couple of times a year, it always takes me forever to accomplish, which is why I printed off the Help directions to follow.

just to make thing clear (sorry for sounding impudent!)
you do .... :
create a New Project
make a selection of an Event and add it to the Project
select a title and drag it onto the clip?
iM does work with your OS ...

Making simple Cross desolves at the end of still photo clips from my library. Not making a clean disolve beteen. Single frames from the previous clip are flashing half way through the desolve. Did both a drag and drop and insert disolve.

Making simple cross desolves at the end of still photo clips from my library.
Not making a clean disolve between clips.
Single frames from the previous clip are flashing half way through the desolve.
Did both a drag and drop and insert disolve.

Making simple cross desolves at the end of still photo clips from my library.
Not making a clean disolve between clips.
Single frames from the previous clip are flashing half way through the desolve.
Did both a drag and drop and insert disolve.

Still Photo Aspect Ratio Confusion

Apologize for asking a question on this topic as I have been through the forum and realize the topic of aspect ratio comes up often. I have not however seen this question answered. Quick background:
-Working with HD Video footage imported as SD as I am burning non-HD dvd's and I have heard the conversion in IDVD and Toast from HD is not great;
-Using photos imported from Aperture in FCE;
-Sequence is NTSC anamorphic as I want 16:9 but without HD;
My question is about the aspect ratio of still photos when I bring them into the timeline. I have experimented with saving photos in different aspect ratios: 853x480 and 720x480. When I import into FCE the 853 shows a square pixel and the 720 shows a NTSC pixel. From what I have read this is due to the way FCE interprets the aspect ratio and assigns an pixel aspect. When I view each in the viewer they both look correct when I click the corresponding pixel aspect from the top of the viewer. It is when I move these to the timeline that I get confused. The 853 gets an adjustment of 18.52 and the 720 gets an adjustment of 33.33. What do these adjustments actually represent? Is it a percentage, a number of pixels, something else? When I read about it in the Manual it seems to state that FCE adjusts for the difference between the still and sequence, but then why does it adjust the 720 since it has the same pixel aspect as the sequence? I then tried changing the Pixel aspect of the 853 in the browser to NTSC and moving it to the timeline. I get the same 33.33 adjustment. The 33.33 does not look correct in either of them, but when I change it to 18.52 it looks correct (with the pixel aspect at square, with it not checked it looks "skinny" or squished).
Only thing I can think is that it has something to do with the anamorphic adjustment and the squeezing that goes on with it as 18.52 as 853 (widescreen) is 18.47 percent wider the 720.
At this point I am really not sure how these will display when I make a dvd and display on a widescreen tv. I would prefer not to do this by guessing or looking at the picture, but instead by understanding what FCE is doing and making sure I have the settings and adjustments correct.
Sorry for the long message, but would really appreciate any advice

Michael,
sorry to disagree, but for sure I was not clear, and the topic is quite complex. So I decided to provide an overview (as much as I can...) of the various combinations of clips inserted into various sequences with all settings - possibly on my web site (I'm afraid other posters are getting bored about all this math).
But since this is taking quite a bit of time, let me just tell you now where I disagree about your findings. When I'll have my overview completed I hope that will better explain what I mean.
_Your point 1_.
I'm pretty sure you (unwillingly) are importing your 16:9 square pixel NTSC clip into a +4:3 CCIR pixel NTSC sequence+ (not your original 16:9 anamorphic NTSC sequence). Please check your sequence settings by selecting the sequence in the browser in list view and reading the Frame Size, Pixel Aspect, and Anamorphic fields.
a. If your sequence is in fact +4:3 CCIR pixel NTSC sequence+, by applying the formulas you get:
- PARclip for +16:9 square pixel NTSC+ clip = 853/853 = 1 (as for any square pixel clip)
- but PARseq is not 1 (as you write) but 640/720 (square/actual pixels) = 0,8888
- Adjust = PARseq/PARclip = 0,8888/1 = 0,8888.
- Since Adjust is <1 Motion Aspect Ratio = - 100* (1/0,8888 -1) = -12,5 as you experienced on FCE. BTW this means that the imported clip has to be squeezed vertically by 12,5% (as opposite of horizontally).
b. If your sequence instead really is +16:9 anamorphic NTSC+ as you seem to imply, then 18,52 is correct as you confirm yourself with "Agree that in the four cases you list it agrees...": it is in fact the 2nd case in my 4 cases list.
_Your point 2_.
Here I suppose the sequence is +16:9 CCIR pixel NTSC+ which has PARseq = 853/720 = 1,1852.
But I'm not clear what you mean by "720/640 NTSC clip". My guess is that you mean a +4:3 CCIR pixel NTSC+ clip,
then PARclip = 640/720 (square/actual pixels) = 0,8888
then Adjust = PARseq/PARclip = 1,1852/0,8888 = 1,3333 and Motion Aspect Ratio = 100*(1,3333 - 1) = 33,33 as you experienced
_Adjust formula_.
I think this formula in your earlier message is incorrect: Aspect Ratio (in Motion/Distort) = - 100 * (1/Adjust-1) if Adjust ≤ 1; seems like the formula: Aspect Ratio (in Motion/Distort) = 100 * (Adjust-1) if Adjust ≥ 1 works at all times including <1 as follows 100*(.875-1)=-12.5.</div>
This not true (well it is true only for Adjust = 1...). As an example if Adjust = 0,8888 then 100*(0,5-1) = -11,12 (wrong value for this pixel adjustment), while -100*(1/0,8888-1) = -12,51 which is the correct vertical squeeze !!
Why 2 different formulas are needed ? because when Adjust is >1 a +horizontal squeeze+ by Adjust is necessary to fix the pixel aspect ratio misalignement, when Adjust is <1 a +vertical squeeze+ is necessary by 1/Adjust... (figures will help as soon as they are ready for... publishing).
I'm sorry these posts are so long, I try to make them as clear as possible, but the topic is a bit messy and, even if only fractions are involved in this math, their actual meaning is not always intuitive...I'd really appreciate any comment also by more experienced users of FCE/FCP...
Thanks
Piero

Acceptable File Size and Resolution for Still Photos in Keyframe Motion

Hello Hello
I know that FCE HD (as other Video Editors), will automatically fit a still photo's size to it's default capability of 720 x 480 Correct?
Well, in regard to making the best possible ZOOMS, and Pans from Still Photos, is it neccessary to re-size all your photos (from an external editor like photoshop), to a specfic size?
According to an older book for FCE, it sez that actually photos re-sized to 720x534 with a resolution of 72 are best. *The proper proportion for NTSC.
And I noticed that when I inserted larger JPG still sizes (like about a meg), on the FCE timline, and when applying Panning, or Zooms, some of the rendered images with motion didn't pan or zoom smoothly.
Is that because those file sizes were TOO large?
Well I have soooo many stills that need to be imported into this particular project that it would be a lot easier for me to just generally reduce these stills (by percentage).
And is the magic resolution amount supposed to be 72?
Because if that's the case I can re-size all my photos to 72, and try to keep the file sizes down to say 300 KB's or so.
Sound like a plan?

Thank you guys
"basically, you should try to make your images large enough so they never have to be scaled beyond 100% in the motion tab in fcp."
Actually as I mentioned some of these file sizes are very large. About 800-900 KB's - and what as a result, what I've noticed is that I actually had to DECREASE the viewing area in both the Browser Window, and the Canvas Winbow just to be able to see the whole image.
Ok - so the 72 DPI is not as important as the dimensions of the photo. But as I said I have soooooo many of these that it would take me forever to manually re-size them all not to mention the fact that re-sizing some of them (odd shapes),would throw the images out of balance.
So again I ask - if there is NO motion applied to the photo, file sizes of about 200 to 350 KB's appear just beautifully ....
BUT
If I need to PAN or ZOOM, is it ok to laod a 1 MEG sized JPG onto the timeline and start working with Keyframe?????
In fact in some cases I'm actually using these larger file JPS's (1 meg or more), so that they TOTALLLY fit the canvas window (cropping them by enlargment)
*With some clipping of the original image of course ...
Why do I do this?
So that you don't see the usual border with horizontal images, or vertical images - know what I mean?
Thanx

When I insert a photo from iPhoto in an iMovie video, it´s another photo that is displayed in the movie

When I insert a photo from iPhoto in an iMovie video, it´s another photo that is displayed in the movie.
I´ve tried to end iMovie, shut down the MacBook Pro, but the same problem happens again.

Hi
BUT
This can take times ! - I mean several Hours ! !
Last time I did this it took > 20 Hours (INTEL i7 4x4 processors - 2.2GHz)
AND - remember to connect Your MacBook (or laptop) to Mains-adaptor - as battery might run out !
Still - there is no alternative route to this (repair of iPhoto Library) suggested by Karsten !
Yours Bengt W

Creating cross-dissolve from still photo to video

Hello all ...
I'm try to create a simple cross-dissolve between a black-and-white photo (imported into FCE as an RGB Photoshop file) and a color (1440x1080) video clip. My problem is that FCE will only insert the dissolve on the right (video) side of the edit, the result being that the photo abruptly goes to black, followed by a gradual fading-in of the video. This is not the effect I want – I'm hoping to create a smoother transition between the two. I suspect that I haven't saved the still photo in the correct format, but I can't seem to find any help in my various FCE books.
So: How do I apply the transition to both sides of the edit? Is it even possible?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice.
Alec

Tom, I figured it out. The audio for the video clip was overlapping the edit (i.e. it extended to the left, so that the video clip's audio ran under the still pic). When I got rid of the (easily replaced) audio, the regular cross-dissolve worked.
Now I just need to figure out how to make the transition last longer than 13 frames!
Thanks for your prompt responses ... I really appreciate it.
Merry Christmas!

Can't adjust clip duration of still photos in iMovie '11

Anyone having the same problem? I inserted a still photo in one of my projects in iMovie which has a a clip duration of 5s when added. I clicked the cogwheel icon then chose the inspector to adjust the duration. I've managed to changed it to 3s but after I clicked "Done", the clip duration is still under 5s.
I didn't encountered this problem before in iMovie '10 and I've searched over at Google and found out that many iMovie '11 users have the same dilemma.
Any workaround you can suggest? Thanks!

"problems setting duration for still photos and transitions in iMovie '11"
A number of people have experienced the same problem and written about it on discussions. Lots of difference solutions as well. If you search using the title quoted above, you can read the solution I found. It's more complicated than it should be. I've never had to fiddle as much with duration times for transitions and still photos. Nevertheless, the steps I have described work for me. You will also find the steps another reader offered that may work for you if all of your transitions are set for the same durations and all of the still photos are as well.

Merge Still Photos with Video Clips?

I have an iMovie project containing only video clips in the timeline, arranged by capture date/time. I also have an iPhoto file containing still photos of similar material. How can I import all of the iPhoto stills into the iMovie project such that the photos are inserted within the timeline and combined with the video clips so that everything (photos and videos) is arranged by date/time? Is that possible? If not, can someone suggest a script that will do just that?

iM is no 'scriptable' app, video editing is usually no process for any automatic tasks...
I would...
* give the photos some names which indicates where in timeline of the iM project they belong (numbers 1,2,...? a date...?)
* place photos manually into time of project...
... yes, video-editing is sometimes a painstaking, time-consuming tasks ... ;))

Poor quality "still" photo

I'm using Premiere Elements 12. When I'm choose "Tools", "Movie Menu", Then choose from a "Menu Theme", I am given the option of inserting a still photo. However, the quality of the photo in my final product is reproduced with VERY POOR resolution. Is there a solution to this problem? Does Premiere Elements 13 correct this problem?
Joe Nunes
Turlock,CA

britt142012
Thanks for the follow up.
Have we ruled out whether or not the issue exists with and without the antivirus and firewall(s) disabled?
Back to the now....
When did you get the Error 16 - after naming just the SLStore Folder to SLStoreOLD? Or did you do the renaming of both the SLCache as well as SLStore Folders to get the Error 16? You should be able to convert back to the original by deleting the newly created SLStore or SLCache Folders and removing OLD from the renamed ones. Is Error 16 gone then?
After that, try just the renaming of the SLStore Folder again.
Before we give up on renaming SLStore and SLCache Folders, check the permissions for each so that they are set for write/read for Everyone.
Then the classical generic ways....
1. Delete the Adobe Premiere Elements Prefs file and, if that does not work, delete the whole 12.0 Folder in which the Adobe Premiere Elements Prefs file exists.
Local Disk C
Users
Owner
AppData
Roaming
Adobe
Premiere Elements
12.0
and in the 12.0 Folder is the Adobe Premiere Elements Prefs file that you delete. If that does not work, then you delete the whole 12.0 Folder in which the Adobe Premiere Elements Prefs file exists. Be sure to be working with Folder Option Show Hidden Files, Folders, and Drives active so that you can see the complete path cited.
2. If that does not work....
a. uninstall the usual Control Panel way
b. do a free ccleaner run through (regular clearner and registry cleaner parts) to get rid of any leftovers from incomplete uninstalls reinstalls
CCleaner - PC Optimization and Cleaning - Free Download
c. reinstall with antivirus and firewall(s) disabled.
We will be watching for the new developments.
Thank you.
ATR

Inserting my photos into Word document

I am putting together a document of my family history and want to insert some photos I've taken into it. But the photos are each about 2.2MB - 2.9 MB and when I copied & pasted the photos into the Word doc the Word doc ended up at 124MB! W/out these photos the Word doc is 11MB!
These are photos I've taken and are in my iPhoto. I've inserted other photos for which I don't have the original so I've scanned these and then inserted into the doc - they are much smaller and range from 24KB to 264KB depending on the size of the original. How do I get around this problem?
Many thanks

Terence
Again thanks for yr advice. Having played around with the various options you gave in yr response to my other posting, I think the best method for me inserting my photos in the Word doc is to export to desktop as that way I can alter the size of the file.
By scaling the photo to a smaller size, the file size is much smaller. I found if I just dragged the photo to the desktop and then into my Word doc, then the photo was still about 2.2MB. By scaling it down as it was exported, and then dragging into Word doc it was only 224KB.
Does this approach sound right to you?

Can opening shot be a long, delayed, fade of a still photo from blur to clear?

I'd like to have the first clip of an iMovie be a long, delayed fade of a still photo from blur to clear. Using the blur transition is not working; it can't be made long enough. Any ideas?
I'd like it so that the fade from blur lasts around 18 seconds, and the photo is clear for about 4 seconds...
I should also say I'm using the latest version of iMovie... just bought the computer a few months ago.
Many thanks for any suggestions!

Further to Karsten's explanation, a workaround is to create a project using your photo with a duration of 36 seconds (or more). Insert the 18 second transition. Then export the project and re-import the exported file to an Event. Now create a new project from that Event. In that new project, trim off the unrequired section from the end of the clip, so that all that remains is the transition plus the extra 4 seconds.
For best results, when exporting the 36 second clip (or whatever length), choose Share>Export using QuickTime. For the Export setting (on the pop-up menu) choose Movie to QuickTime Movie. For "Options>Video>Settings>Compression Type" choose Apple Intermediate Codec (AIC). Leave other settings as they are. This will give you a full quality movie file (.mov) in the AIC format, which is iMovie's preferred editing format.
John

How do you drop a still photo into a video?

how do you drop a still photo into a video -- while continuing the audio track unchanded?

by popular demand, Kelli Applies Lip Liner to Audrey's Lips has been completely re-mastered. (ok, it was just one person who asked, but she's a very intelligent and articulate observer of such matters. she noted that the clip suggests "interesting possibilities", but that men probably would be unaware of that. i explained that "men are pretty simple, so we don't see too many moves ahead." she laughed.)
i believe that in an earlier post i indicated that in the re-mastered version i would delete the in-camera audio and dub in the audio from the Zoom H4n audio recorder. this i did.
(syncing the video and audio continues to be a nightmare, though ).
besides signifcantly improving the sound quality, using a separately recorded audio source allowed me to drop (2) still photos into the video track, and still preserve the continuity of the recorded conversation.
dropping in the stills the correct way (unlike in the first re-mastered video) was easier than i thought it would be. it's just a matter of dragging the Premiere Elements 7's red vertical timeline-cursor to the point on the timeline where you want the insert to begin, and then dragging and dropping the still photo alongside the red cursor. the amount of time the still will appear can be shortened or lengthened by dragging with the mouse -- the same way any other file can be extended or contracted.
the video coming out from the still was now running behind the soundtrack. but, the timeline shows the exact duration of the still, so the video coming out was shortened with the mouse by that same duration, and then the audio and video were back in sync.
to add the "sound effect" of the camera's shutter clicking (actually its mirror slapping) before each still appears, i found a point on the audio recording that had the click of my camera actually taking a still, and that had only a little audio from the models underneath it. removing all the audio before and after the sound of the camera click was, again, just a matter of finding the start/stop points i wanted, moving the timeline's red cursor to those points, and using the mouse to drag the ends of the audio file alongside the cursor.
because i wanted the sound of the camera click to merge with the converation anyway, i just put the audio file of the click on its own audio track (which allowed me to separately control its volume).
however, when i tried to copy and paste the audio file of the camera click to the beginning of the second still photo, i was not able to copy and paste by the normal method of using the mouse to right-click-file/left-click-"copy"/left-click-"paste". eventually, i tried doing so by clicking on "edit" on the menu bar at the upper left and then clicking on "copy" and "paste", and there was no problem. (go figure.)
as with the other re-mastered video, i brightened, increased contrast, made the hue a bit warmer, and added a little sharpening. (this has to be done individually for each separate video file that makes up the whole piece -- at least that's what i did.)
interestingly, the audio level can be tweaked directly on the timeline by using the mouse to drag up or down a horizontal yellow line running the length of the audio file.
i again rendered in Adobe Flash Video (.flv). (annoyingly, in XP at least, there's a default download destination that has to be reset everytime you want to save in a different location). from a drop-down menu i selected "NTSC Flash Video 700k" (just in case) and left the file name as "Untitled" (since no matter what i change it to, it saves as "untitled.flv", so i have to rename it anyway once it's saved).
i went into "Advanced..." and, to preserve the dimensions and the HD, i unchecked "Resize Video", chose "Same as source" for the frame rate, and checked 2 "Encoding Passes" (just in case).
for some reason, everytime i click the "save" button, it asks what i want to call these settings. if i use the name i used for the same settings on the previous go-round, it says that that name is already used and (impliedly) can't be used again. so, i add the new date, and yet another name for the same settings gets added to the drop-down menu (odd).
once the compressed .flv file was saved, it was an easy upload to youtube.
btw, it seems that the Elements 7's Audio Mix defaults to 0 dB, OR whatever the setting was in the prior saved version, unless i use the mouse to continuously "ride the slider pot". that's ok for a 48-second video, but does anyone know of a way the dB can be set so that it just sits there, instead of moving back to where it previously was

How to use portrait still photos in Premier Pro CS4

I am new to Premier Pro and want to insert a bunch of still photos into a video I am making of a recent vacation. A lot of the photos have a portrait orientation, and when I import them into Premier Pro, they are automatically turned to landscape. Can you tell me an easy way to have the pictures flipped 90 degrees? I do not want to show the motion of the flipping - I just want the pictures to be oriented correctly. I am fine with a fill border on the sides of the pictures. Thank you!

Rotating still in the Effect Controls is somewhat work intensitive.
If you have Photoshop you can batch rotate them.
Otherwise open them in the Windows Viewer, rotate and close.
If al is well the still will now import correct.

Automatically Attaching (Or Inserting) Selected Photos Into Email Message

I recently upgraded from Photoshop Elements 3.0 to Photoshop CS2 and the one feature that I can't seem to find in Photoshop CS2 is an automated method for resizing photos and automatically attaching or inserting the photos into an email message. Elements 3.0 has a feature that allows you to select the photos you would like to send in Photoshop Organizer and then select a menu option that will resize the images for emailing and automatically attached the photos to new email message or insert the photos into the body of the message with a user selectable frame around each message.
Although I still have Photoshop Elements 3.0 installed, I'd prefer to work in Photoshop CS2 as much as possible but I can't seem to find any similar feature either in Adobe Bridge or in Photoshop. Does anyone know if there's any easy way to automatically email photos from Adobe Bridge/Photoshop CS2 similar to the feature included with Photoshop Elements 3.0?
Thanks in advance for your help.

Yes, there a number of very useful features in Elements that Adobe seems to leave out of CS2 for some unexplained reason. Elements is actually better at a bunch of useful things than CS2 is. That I don't understand.
Anyway, if you want to select several images in Bridge and make image sizes appropriate for email, you can do that. It's not as simple as in Elements, but not that hard either.
Just select the images you want to attach. Select Tools/Photoshop/Image Proccesor from the menus. This will open up Photoshop and bring up a dialog. You can then select a folder location, JPEG as the file type, [X] Resize to Fit and enter a pixel height and width appropriate for email depending upon how big you want the images to be and [X] Convert profile to sRGB and go. It will then makes JPEGs for you of the requested size. You, then finish the process by manually attaching them to an email in your email client.
--John

Inserting Still Photos

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