Installing new Drive questions(partitioning, journalling...)

I am installing a new internal drive(500GB) and have a couple questions.
I am a heavy Photoshop user. I have an external 150GB FireWire drive currently as my Primary Cache.
The new Internal Drive will be taking all my working files from the original/main drive to this new one.(about 170GB worth...and growing)
What is my best option.
1. Main Drive (250GB) for Apps and all software related files.
2a. Partition#1 - Journaled? (350GB) for working files and library of images.
2b. Partition#2 - Non-Journaled? (116GB) For Primary Scratch disk
3. External Drive for Secondary Scratch, (Plus iTunes music)
is there a better way to do this?
What is the best format for a scratch partition?
what is best order for scratching?
#1. secondary internal drive?
#2. main drive or external?
Leopard and Time machine may happen, but not for a few months at least.

The two most common ways to specify the startup Volume are
System Preferences > Startup Disk (semi-permanent)
Option-key Starup Manager (completely temporary)
So I suggest this procedure:
Use System Preference to set the Startup Disk to your Wife's settings.
When You want to use the computer, hold the Option key, which will allow you to select the drive you wish, on a temporary basis only.
Do you really need two versions of Mac OS X? You know you can each have your own account, each with its own preference settings for many things. What feature(s) inspire you to install multiple versions?

Similar Messages

Installing new drive for OSX-How do I format and remove existing drive

I'm going to replace the 320G drive that came in my Mac Pro with a 500G. I want to format and remove the 320G, then put OSX on the 500G. How would I go about this.

Hi,
Shut down computer, add the 500GB drive into one of the open hard drive slots, reboot, there might be a window that pops up indicating if you want to "intialize" the new drive. Click Intialize (If nothing comes up launch disk utility located in applications--> utilities--> disk utility).
In the disk utility window, locate the new drive on the left side column. Click on the drive, and in the middle portion of the window there will be 5 tabs: First Aid, Erase, Partition, RAID, Restore. Click Partition.
Under Volume Scheme, choose how many partitions you want. I your case you probably just want 1 partition, so choose 1 partition.
Name the volume under volume information, choose Mac OS Extended (Journaled) for format.
Looking at the buttons below press "Options". Your mac is intel make sure "GUID Partition Table" is clicked.
Press Partition. Wait a couple seconds for it to partition. Once done, it will show up on the desktop. It's ready to go.
Next step to decide is if you want to fresh install the OS onto this new 500GB drive OR simply clone over your 320GB. This is up to you. If you don't want to reinstall everything just use a cloning program such as "Superduper!" or "Carbon Copy Cloner".
If you want to fresh install the OS, insert the OS disk that came with the mac pro. Restart. When restarting hold down the letter "c" on the keyboard to boot from disk. Follow the instructions, and choose "erase and install". If you are going to fresh install, BE SURE TO CHOOSE THE BLANK 500GB, NOT YOUR CURRENT 320GB. To fresh install, the choice is "Erase and Install" I think. Install and your 500GB drive should be ready to go, with a brand new OS installed.
Whether you choose to clone over your system, or fresh install, if possible always run "Disk Warrior" or "Tech Tools" maintenance disks if you have them either after the OS install or after installing all your applications.
Have fun!
noice_T

Installing new drive in macbook

hello all,
i have a 2ghz macbook with a 60gb system drive that is pretty much at capacity. i've ordered a 120gb drive to replace it. only problem is that i don't know how to go about doing this switch. i mean, i know how to open up the laptop and physically install it, but how do i get all my stuff onto the new drive in the easiest way?
i'd like to somehow copy my whole exisiting drive onto the new drive (maybe via an external hard drive)...is there software/utility that does this for you?
thanks,
bklyn5446
2GHz MacBook Mac OS X (10.4.10)

I appreciate the comment & its spirit -- some folks become ... er, agitated is a good word ... when the value of their "rituals" are questioned.
I think the step was probably a good one with older, slower SCSI drives. AFAIK, RAW wasn't enabled by default on a lot of them, particularly ones set up for high bandwidth video work where occasional read errors were less important than maintaining the highest possible throughput.
But (also AFAIK) modern ATA drives are so speedy & so brainy that this isn't necessary, so unless the drive in question is an old ATA-33 or maybe an ATA-66 one, it probably does a much better job of on-the-fly bad block detection than the "write zeros" approach because it is testing the integrity of arbitrary, real-world data patterns instead of just all zeros.
At the risk of promoting even more time-consuming rituals, I think the 35 pass erase (& maybe the 7 pass one) write something other than all zeros on some passes -- "flipping the bits" several times is an erase more secure against advanced forensic data recovery techniques than repetitively writing the same data pattern repeatedly. But again, I don't think this is needed for any purpose other than a secure erase.

Do I need to do anything after installing new drive before I can use it?

I just got two 750GB WD Caviars and have installed them on my MP. One of them I'm going to use as a backup and remove when not using. My point for posting though is that I got some sort of error message once I powered the computer back up after installation. Do I need to format these drives or something like that? On my stock HDD on my Mac Pro, in disk utilities the 'partition scheme' says "GUID Partition Table" and for the two new drives they say "Unformatted". Also there was a fairly loud pulsating buzz after installing the new drives. It lasted most of the day and then suddenly stopped. Could the strange buzzing have something to do with the formatting issue?

Also, you can simply open Disk Utility - select the drive you want to format from the list of drives (icons with names) on the left. Click on the "erase" button at the top of the Disk Utility window and that will take you to the "dialogue" for erasing the selected drive - erasing is equivalent of formatting for purposes of this discussion.
Once erased (formatted) the drive (whether external or internal) should appear as a volume on your desktop and should be "useable" as any drive would be. Next step - _if you desire_ - is to get into partitioning drives, making bootable backup drives and RAID configurations.
Re the noise (buzzing): seems to me it wasn't the drives themselves that were causing the earlier reports. I think it was something to do with air flow over drive bay #4. Installing a drive in that bay "caused" the noise to begin. Like I said - you should do a search for this using applicable key words.

8530 HELP PLEASE! Installed new driver

I installed the new driver last night (2/17/2012). There was no warning that the new driver no longer uses Intellisync and only syncs with MS Outlook. All of my contacts and calendar are in a 3rd party software which uses Intellisync. I have been compiling contacts in this software since 2004. So I am screwed now in regard to synchronization . I do not want to migrate to MS Outlook because my current 3rd party database software links contact records and calendar events.
I had to abandon my perfectly good Palm when I upgraded to Windows 7 and bought the BB because it did synch with my database software. How do I revert back to the previous driver which will use Intellisync?
It would have been customer-friendly if there had been a warning prior to my installing the new driver upgrade (as in "what changes"). This is unforgivable!!!!!!!

Cameron,
You guessed correctly - before you can restore from backup, you must format the drive. Select the drive in Disk Utility, click on the "Erase" tab and format the drive as "Mac OS Extended (Journaled)" and give it a name ("Macintosh HD" is Apple's default name for internal drives) and then click erase. Your drive will be formatted in a minute or so and you can proceed with Time Machine restoration.
Good luck,
Clinton

New drive question

After the last update, my main drive would not boot on my G5. It was 4 years old and I have had so many problems with 10.5.6, I bought a new drive and installed it. I have had problems with programs not running after 10.5.4 so I installed 10.5.3.
I am able to mount the old drive and I dragged a lot of applications over. I have 2 questions, though.
1. Most applications, when I try to run ask for the installation code. This isn't a problem, as the program runs once I enter it. The problem is with the Adobe products. It won't let me enter the installation code. Instead, I get a message that the installation is incorrect and to reinstall the program. Some of the programs like Photoshop won't let me install from a previous version if it is an update. I have to install 5, then 6, etc.
Is there a file on the old disk that I can drag over to the new drive to avoid this?
2. Is there any way to access the old emails and desktop? I had a couple of programs that I purchased online mounted on the desktop that I would like to burn to a DVD.
Thanks in advance.

In regard to Adobe: it used to be the case, up thru Photoshop CS1, that you could indeed move the programs to another drive by either cloning your old drive to the new, or by copying (provided you know where ALL the files are and copy appropriately). You could run off of either the original drive or the cloned drive and the programs would launch and run just fine. Such is no longer the case. Adobe has changed the way things work and you must install them where they are to reside. You may even have to contact Adobe and deauthorize the old install before you can get the new one registered--since I decided not to do the upgrade to CS4 I'm not sure about that, but I have heard stories. I do know that even Elements 6 will not run when I boot from my clone, although it runs just fine on the normal startup disk. Bottom line: your best bet is to re-intall the Adobe apps. You should not have to install all the iterations, just the one you are using, and it should ask you for the original serial number (the one you used before the upgrade install), and then the serial for the current upgrade.
Also, you probably need to make sure all traces of the old Adobe stuff are gone before doing the new install. Do a search on uninstall, it is not necessarily easily done. You may be able to remove everything necessary with the Adobe uninstaller.
Francine
Francine
Schwieder

Upgrading Early 2008 MBP to dual drive format and new OS. Should I install new drives or OS first?

Hi there. I have a Early 2008 15" MBP (4,1). Model A1260. 2.6GHz with a (almost full) 320gb 7200rpm hdd. Instead of spending thousands on a new MBP, I've decided to give my old one a makeover for a few hundred. Here's my situation:
My optical drive is dead. I'm wanting to set up a dual drive situation by adding a 240gb SSD as well as a new 750gb 7200rpm HDD for storage. I have a new optical drive with USB adapter on the way for external use.
I'm also currently running Leopord and want to upgrade my OS X. I have the install disk from Apple.
So my questions are as follows:
1. This is my first venture into performing surgery of any kind on the computer and I'm not a professional. In a broad sense, is this too much for my 'older' computer to handle?
2. If I'm good to go this big, should I upgrade my OS first and then switch out the drives or vice versa?
3. This computer seems to run hot. I feel like it always has and always thought it was because of the 2.6Ghz processor. I'm looking at the WD Black Scorpio 750gb 7200rpm. Is this going to run a lot hotter than my current 300gb 7200rpm HDD? Is there a better option? I usually use it with a USB fan base.
I also just wanted to openly ask for advice in general, based on my lack of experience. Is there something else I should know before diving in?
Thanks ahead of time for taking the time to help. I grately appreciate it! I'm really looking forward to this project!

Hi, what you plan to do will indeed revive your old Mac and make it ~~ fly ~~
Before you do anything else, Backup Backup Backup, at least to Time Machine and one cloned drive BEFORE you embark on any of the above.
kgroove1 wrote:
Hi there. I have a Early 2008 15" MBP (4,1). Model A1260. 2.6GHz with a (almost full) 320gb 7200rpm hdd. ..
So my questions are as follows:
1. This is my first venture into performing surgery of any kind on the computer and I'm not a professional. In a broad sense, is this too much for my 'older' computer to handle?
I have the same model (early 2008 Macbook Pro, A1260, 4,1) and currently run OS X Mavericks on my system with 2 x 1TB Seagate Hybrid hard drives in each bay. Now my computer SINGS.....¶¶•ªªº••¶¶¶
You say that your hard disk space is low and you will find that that is the biggest bottleneck for your system, so upgrading the hard disk space will make a huge diference. But you should also consider upgrading your RAM too. Some time ago I had upgraded my RAM from the factory installed 2 GB to the maximum 6GB allowed on this computer, and it has made a huge difference.
2. If I'm good to go this big, should I upgrade my OS first and then switch out the drives or vice versa?
This step depends on what kind of system you want to set-up. Do you want a clean install, with an out of the box kind of system so that you set up all applications and settings from scratch, or do you want to maintain your old settings and apps as they are, maintaining your users and settings.
The best way to do the latter is to get an external hard drive enclosure to hold the new drive, and after erasing it and formatting it, clone your old hard drive onto it, using Carbon Copy Cloner or Superduper. But for this you will need a SSD with at least the same amount of hard disk space as your current boot drive. After the cloning operation is done, you can swap the drive out from the main enclosure and remove the Optical drive to be replaced by an Optical Bay to hold the new large capacity storage hard disk.
3. This computer seems to run hot. I feel like it always has and always thought it was because of the 2.6Ghz processor. I'm looking at the WD Black Scorpio 750gb 7200rpm. Is this going to run a lot hotter than my current 300gb 7200rpm HDD? Is there a better option? I usually use it with a USB fan base.
In my opinion you do not need a 7200 RPM in your optical bay. A 5400 RPM drive will not be noticeably slower on your system, and the benefit of running this in terms of power usage and heat generation will outweigh the slower speed. Also, the Seagate Hybrid drives that I use have 8GB of Flash memory, to run frequently used apps much faster, and the speeds are excellent with lower heat generation.
To sum up, to lower your CPU temperatures, get more RAM, extra hard disk space for your boot drive and run a lower speed drive.
I also just wanted to openly ask for advice in general, based on my lack of experience. Is there something else I should know before diving in?
Since you are upgrading from Leopard to Mavericks, you will need to putchase a retail version of 10.6.3 (Snow Leopard) or above and install that before you can install Mavericks as a free upgrade. I would install that first, then upgrade to Mavericks on my old system, and only then clone the system afetr checking that it was working to my satisfaction.
BEFORE embarking on any of the above, Backup Backup Backup your current system, at least to Time Machine and one cloned drive.
I have done the 2 x 1TB upgrade just last week and for your reference below is a picture of my own set-up, with hardware links and links to iFixit instructions.
Comprehensive iFixit "How-to" instructiions can be found here:
http://www.ifixit.com/Device/MacBook_Pro_15%22_Core_2_Duo_Models_A1226_and_A1260
For my hardware, see the links below to get some ideas:
Optical Bay Enclosure:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A2VNUK4/ref=noref/278-2586001-6565828?ie=U TF8&psc=1&s=computers
SSD:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BQ8RGL6/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=computer s
My HDD:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BHRWHNI/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i02?ie=UTF8 &psc=1
(The picture below is while I was testing the system before I replaced the original 750GB Toshiba with the Seagate 1TB)
Have fun

Unable to install new driver for Quadro 4000

Hello
downloaded the new version 304.00.05f05 for quadro 4000. unable to install the new driver for NVIDIA Quadro 4000.
By clicking on the DMG I get a message "high-os-title high-os-message superimposed on the installer window
old NVIDIA driver already installed ; CUDA updated automatically to version 5.0.45
OS : Mountain lion
anywhere button activated in security window
Please help

Try downloading the update again. Perhaps the one you have got corrupted during the download process.
You can install updates in the Safe Mode and it should eliminate the possibility of other software interfering with the update process.
Shut down the computer and then power it back up. Immediately after hearing the startup chime, hold down the shift key and continue to hold it until the gray Apple icon and a progress bar appear. The boot up is significantly slower than normal. This will reset some caches, forces a directory check, and disables all startup and login items, among other things. If the system operates normally, there may be 3rd party applications which are causing a problem.
Safe Mode
Safe Mode - About

MacPro4,1 Front fan noise-since installing new drive

Since installing a new drive in bay 4, my front fan (PCIe) is very noisy.
This happens not only on start up, shut down & sleep wake up- but for no apparent reason. It use to sound like a purring kitten- now sounds like clacking metal. Before doing the install, we blew out all the dust with canned air. Then did it again the next day.
Tried resetting the PRAM & SMC.
It is possible when blowing out the dust we forced the fan off it axis?
Any thoughts?
Thanks.

You transferred the thermal sensor from the old hard drive to the new hard drive and reconnected it to the logic-board???
If so, then perhaps it or one of the many other sensors or sensor cables is disconnected or damaged.
One way of checking the sensors is to run the Apple Hardware Test.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1509
Another is using iStat Menus or the iStatPro Widget and look at the sensor readouts.
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/25230/istat-menus
http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/

Installing new drive

I had a HD that locked up. I have purchased a new one and installed. The display will not come on. Any ideas. I have not installed Windows yet, as I cannot see what is happening. Should the display show something, even w/o drive? It does not.
Pavilion zt1145
Thanks
Hollis

Perhaps the new drive is cabled incorrectly or perhaps a cable got knocked loose. Your PC should at least bring up the setup screen at which point you can enter the bios and see if your HD is recognized.
What hard drive and speed was your old drive and what are you trying to replace it with?
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

HT201250 My current tax program doesn't see last years after I installed new drive

The year before software is on time machine but I had to install a new hard drive and the existing program doesn't see it,high light when searching, how do I get or import my taxes from previous years.

A little more info would help.
"The year before software is on Time Machine."
Do you mean last year's TurboTax app is in a TM backup?
When you installed the new hard drive did you restore the previous drive's contents from the TM backup? Including applications?
"How do I get or import my taxes from previous years."
What is it specifically you need to import?
If you restored completely to the new drive from Time Machine, everything should be there.
I am still confused on your specific problem.

Installed new driver and printing still stops with images

I have a Cannon printer and have it shared thru the USB port on my Airport. Any time I have to print a large image file the print gets almost complete and just stops. Light keep blinking and the printer driver says it's still printing. No error messages. If I plug the printer back into the USB port on the Macbook it prints the image file just fine.
I was hopeful that this new driver would fix the problem. Anyone know of a solution?
Thanks,
Larry

Hi,
Different fonts will occupy different space to print.
So, the new font may occupy more space when compare to the old font and width of the window may not accomdate.
You can check by reducing the Font size of the new font, whether its actually printing with the new font.
Thanks & Regards,
Vamsi.

Weird pop up after installing new drive.

I just changed my internal hard drive on my iMac G5. I migrated my content from my old drive, to an external...and then from my external to the new drive, using Super Duper. Now everytime I boot up my computer this screen pops up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v653/mywhitenoise/Picture2-1.png
Is there an easy way to get rid of this?

mywhitenoise:
I, too, use Camino, but have never seen a file like that. It seems primarily related to reporting issues. I don't know how it got where it is. If your Camino is performing normally, I am aware of no reason why you may not delete it. I don't think you need to remove or reinstall Camino, unless you are experiencing issues.
cornelius

HS-1200, problems installing new driver (Win7)

I actually have a few problems with this headset, but let me start with the drivers first.
As far as I can tell, I'm currently using "old" Windows 7 drivers. Version is .0.0.640. The creative site however, lists version .0.0004 as the latest. So I downloaded HSHP_PCDRV_LB__0_0004.exe and installed it.
At least, that's what I thought.
Because after the mandatory Windows restart, the version number of the drivers is still listed as .0.0.640.
Question : How can I succesfully install the new drivers under Windows 7 x64?
Another problem I'm still experiencing is a very low microphone recording volume. I say "still" because I've had this problem in XP as well. If I look in Windows 7's sound panel, I get perhaps 2 bars out 0 when I speak (loudly) into the microphone. Even if I shout I don't get more than 4 bars, while recording level is set to max (00).
The only program that is able to use the microphone is Skype, because Skype digitally amplifies the sound. That does mean however that Skype also amplifies any available noise, and with such low recording volumes, there's quite a bit. So even though I can use the microphone in Skype, quality isn't really all that good.
But using the microphone while playing games is absolutely impossible (even though I distinctly remember Creative selling this as a "Gaming Headset"). My team mates can't hear me at all because it's too soft.
Question 2: Has the problem of low microphone recording volume finally been solved? If not, will it ever? Or do I just throw this headset on the large heap of hardware that never fulfilled its promises?
I have a few more question but I guess I'll save those for later since if I can't get the above two problems fixed, I'm going to retire the headset.
Thanks in advance.

[SIZE=]ClarkVent wrote: As far as I can tell, I'm currently using "old" Windows 7 drivers. Version is .0.0.640. The creative site however, lists version .0.0004 as the latest. So I downloaded HSHP_PCDRV_LB__0_0004.exe and installed it.
At least, that's what I thought.
Because after the mandatory Windows restart, the version number of the drivers is still listed as .0.0.640.
[/SIZE]
To answer one of my own questions (I hate doing that), it's apparently because the drivers haven't changed since v.0.0.640. So even though both version .0.0.0003 and .0.0.0004 are offered as a driver update, they aren't. I have confirmed this by unpacking the downloads and comparing the embedded drivers. The only things that differ, are some of the support applications.
As for my second question (the microphone's low recording volume), seeing that this is a hardware problem and Creative probably isn't able to fix it, I think I found a solution myself.

Windows can't be installed on Drive 0 Partition 4.

Macbook pro, 13 inch, mid 2012.
2,9 GHz, intel Core i7
8 Gb 1600 MHz DDR3
Version 10.9.5
Hi,
I've been trying to install windows 8,1 Pro, x64 on my
Macbook pro and I followed the instructions of this site " http://www.instructables.com/id/Install-Windows-7-on-MacBook-Pro-with-Retina-Dis pl/?ALLSTEPS "
Everything went smoothly until after step 5, when my computer shout down and a black screen came up and it said "boot device not found..." i searched the web and found that i could press option key after that I could choose between MAC, System recovery, Windows(didn't work) and EFI BOOT. To get too windows installations i pressed EFI BOOT. I started my installation and entered my product key and then i got stuck.
The installation ask me "where i want to install windows" and had 4 options, the last one said BOOTCAMP, so i choose to format my "disk 0 partition 4, BOOTCAMP" as the instructions said. When the disk was done formatting, it become "disk 0 partitions 4" and it also said "Windows cannot be installed to this disk the selcted disk har an MR partition table. On EFI systems, windows can only be installed to GPT disks.
I don't know what to do and i'm kind a new at this, does anybody have any ideas?
Best regards.

guzzzee wrote:
Macbook pro, 13 inch, mid 2012.
2,9 GHz, intel Core i7
8 Gb 1600 MHz DDR3
Version 10.9.5
When the disk was done formatting, it become "disk 0 partitions 4" and it also said "Windows cannot be installed to this disk the selcted disk har an MR partition table. On EFI systems, windows can only be installed to GPT disks.
On your MBP (I have the same model - Model Identifier MacBookPro 9,2), EFI method of installation will cause problems with Graphics/Keyboard/Mouse/Audio. The EFI Firmware on this Mac is a preUEFI model. Such models do not support installation on pure GPT disks. This is from the Bootcamp info.plist.
<key>PreUEFIModels</key>
        <array>
                <string>MacBook7</string>
                <string>MacBookAir5</string>
                <string>MacBookPro10</string>
                <string>MacPro5</string>
                <string>Macmini6</string>
                <string>iMac13</string>
        </array>
The regular method (non EFI boot) is fully supported and uses a BIOS compatibility mode, which only works on a GPT+MBR (aka Hybrid MBR disk). This requires BC Assistant to partition/format (as FAT32). Such a partition needs to be reformatted from FAT32 to NTFS for Windows to install correctly.
You are mixing the two methods by choosing EFI, but partitioning the disk via BCA. I would not recommend using the EFI method on this specific model

Installing new Drive questions(partitioning, journalling...)

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