Intel Mini - Bad sectors on HD while under warranty - what to do

Hi All,
1.5Ghz Core Solo Mac mini with 60GB SATA drive.
While still under warranty, the OS decided not to boot one day.
Had to format and re-install the OS. Did that.
Worked fine for about a week, and had to reformat and install again.
At that point, I took it into my local warranty shop.
They could not find any issues, so they returned the mini after about a month of supposedly doing tests on it.
Now, the mini is just out of warranty, and the hard drive is crapping out again.
This time, I purchased Drive Genius (http://www.prosofteng.com/products/drivegeniusinfo.php), and did a surface scan.
It shows several bad blocks on the hard drive (scan still running, and has shown 6 bad blocks so far).
So, now it's out of warranty, and the problem I pointed out while it was under warranty is still there.
What to do ?
Suggestions ?
Thanks!

It's probably not worth the hassle of trying to persuade them to cover it.
You could get an external drive, but it is also possible to just buy a new 2.5" SATA hard disk and replace the mechanism. Also some formatting software is capable of mapping out the bad blocks so they are not used, unfortunately Disk Utility may not be one of those (at least it never gives the impression of doing this).
As your Mac mini is now out of warranty opening it yourself is not going to invalidate it!
If you search using Google you will find take-apart instructions.

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  • Bad Sectors, Frequent Resets, and Useless Restores

    Hello all,
    After much effort to restore my iPod back to its original happy state, it has refused to emerge from its purgatory. Right now, this is its status: iPod refuses to sync more than 1.45GB of data (it has 80GB capacity), iPod refuses to restore properly (problems such as various errors, -1418, -40, -50 are not resolved), upon proper ejection, iPod resets itself before the timer runs out.
    I have attempted restoration from various states, Disk Mode, Regular Mode. I have attempted to repair the disk with the disk check utility. Nothing has changed.
    And here's some more monkey's to throw in the barrel. Right now I do not live conveniently near an Apple Store, Santa Barbara. Also, I will be leaving the country soon, to Japan.
    Here are my questions. What, if anything, may I do to resolve this issue, by myself? If that isn't the case, most likely, would going to an Apple store be troublesome if I had to go to a different city, San Francisco? (with a receipt from the retailer I purchased the iPod, Amazon.com) And, more ludicrous I can assume, would I be able to take care of this issue while in Japan, if the repair cannot be done in a timely fashion?
    Sorry for the length and complexity of this issue.

    These proceedures might work for you. For best results it might pay to disconnect any unnecessary USB devices & power-cycle your computer before starting to eliminate potential driver clashes.
    *Checking hard-drive for errors*
    Hold Menu+Select on your iPod for about 6 seconds until it resets, then hold Menu+Play as soon as the Apple logo appears, again for about 6 seconds to put the machine in disk mode. Connect to your computer, closing iTunes if it opens. Browse *My Computer* and right-click on the drive for the iPod, click Properties, then click Tools. Under Error-checking, click *Check Now*. Under Check disk options, select *Scan for and attempt recovery of bad sectors* (Optional - takes ages but a good idea if you've reason to suspect physical damage). Click Start. Mac users should run *Disk Utility / Repair Disk* for the equivalent process. This should find and correct any errors in the logical & physical structures of your iPod's hard drive. Once these have been fixed you can reset the iPod (hold Menu+Select ) and should stand a better chance of a successful restore.
    Once you've restored your iPod don't rush to dump all the data back exactly as it was before. Complex smart playlists can sometimes trigger constant reboots or dumping of the iPod's library. In addition, larger transfers can fail leaving data in an inconsistent state. Try this technique for populating the iPod in stages.
    *Break up large transfers*
    In iTunes select the menu item *File... New Smart Playlist*. Change the first drop-down box to Playlist, the next to is and the next to Music. Tick against *Limit to*, type in say 10, then change the drop-down to GB, and set the last drop-down to artist. When you click OK you can enter a name for the playlist, e.g. Transfer. Now sync this playlist to your iPod rather than your entire library. When the sync is complete disconect the iPod & check that it can play the music you've downloaded to it. Now modify the rule ( *File... Edit playlist* ) to increase the size by your chosen amount, then sync and repeat. You can experiment with different size increments, if it doesn't work just choose something a bit smaller until it works each time. Before long you should have all your music on your iPod. Once that's done you can move on to other media such as podcasts, videos, photos etc. and put back any playlists that you want on the iPod.
    tt2

  • Can scrambled video be related to bad sectors on hard drive?

    I bought my iMac refurbed from Apple, and it had to have both its logic board and power supply replaced four months later. That was a year ago, and in December it started exhibiting problems that I thought were related to the logic board: scrambled video at startup (a kind of multi-colored plaid on the screen, or strange distorted blocks on the display); kernel panics; slowdowns, crashes, and freezes in all applications, including the Finder; and refusal to shutdown. Since this iMac is out of warranty, and I did not purchase AppleCare on it, I had resigned myself to buying a new Intel iMac when the G5 finally died. This although it passed the Apple Hardware Test.
    Today my AppleCare kit arrived for my Powerbook G4, and just for a lark, I thought I'd run TechToolDeluxe 3.1.1 on the iMac, not expecting it to show anything. To my surprise, it reported 14 bad sectors on the surface scan of the hard drive. (It passed all the other tests.) This would actually be good news, because I could buy a new hard drive for $65 or so from OWC and install it myself.
    But my question is, how could bad sectors relate to the video issues I've experienced intermittently? Is it simply possible that both the logic board and the hard drive are failing?
    Thanks for any insight or advice,
    Nancy
    iMac G5 17-inch ALS   Mac OS X (10.4.8)   2 Ghz, 1 GB RAM

    Miriam,
    I was afraid that would be the verdict: the strong possibility that both my logic board and my hard drive are failing. Sigh! And unfortunately my rev B iMac (17-inch ALS) is not covered under Apple's Extended Repair program, which is just for 20-inch models. Another sigh. Although it would cost me only $75 to replace the hard drive on this iMac (these non-Intel ones are user-serviceable), I'm not sure that I wouldn't be sending that money down a black hole if it's just a matter of time until my logic board gives up the ghost.
    So I'm trying to decide whether to it's time to buy a new iMac now.
    Thank you so much for your input. I really appreciate it. And I hope you've dug yourself out of all that snow!
    Nancy
    iMac G5 17-inch ALS   Mac OS X (10.4.8)   1 GB RAM, 2 Ghz

  • Problem with recovering data from Bit Locker enabled hard disk with bad sectors

    Hi,
    I have Lenovo T430 laptop with Windows 7 and Bit Locker enabled hard disk. While working I encountered blue screen error multiple times. After some time, the laptop stopped to boot by itself and started showing error 'A disk read write error has occurred.
    Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart' message. I tried to connect the hard disk to a different PC as a secondary drive and tried to check the disk to recover the data. The 500 GB disk is showing as unallocated space and I am not sure how to recover the
    data from the hard disk. Appreciate your help to recover the data from corrupted hard disk.
    I used the Lenovo Diagnostics tools available in BIOS and it showed 48 bad sector errors on the hard disk. I also used Windows 7 CD and tried auto repair but it looks like it didn't do anything.
    Thanks in advance!

    Hi  SenneVL,
    Since there are 48 bad sectors on your hard disk, this means the system can not boot any more, the data might not be restored in a normal way, you'd better turn to data restore company for help.
    Regards
    Wade Liu
    TechNet Community Support

  • I bought a brand new Mac 27" desktop that came loaded with Adobe CS6. Everything worked like a charm until the hard drive, 1Tb, developed a bad sector and the Apple Store reinstalled a new one as I had extended warranty with them. The recycled the drive i

    I bought a brand new Mac 27" desktop that came loaded with Adobe CS6. Everything worked like a charm until the hard drive, 1Tb, developed a bad sector and the Apple Store reinstalled a new one as I had extended warranty with them. They recycled the drive immediately (like a fool I didn't ask for it back to get the data off it.) But luckily I have all my data on CrashPlan. I downloaded it and it worked great except I downloaded it to the desktop and not the original location so it got squirrely. I also have an external 1.5Tb drive that I wanted to make bootable so I installed Mavericks 10.9.3 . I then went ahead and installed it on the newly installed drive too.
    I think that because I have a new drive Adobe thinks I have a news computer. I bought the 27" Mac brand new from Ebay and it came loaded with software, including CS6. I have a serial number for CS6 but Adobe said it wasn't valid. (I have owned CS2, CS4 and now CS6 which came preloaded onto the Mac by the seller who told me that the software was registered to the Mac???
    I am going to re-download the backup but this time to the original location (I still don't think it will work with Adobe. What can I do about this?
    iMac 27-inch, Late 2012
    Processor  3.2 GHz Intel Core i5
    Memory  32 GB 1600 MHz DDR3
    Graphics  NVIDIA GeForce GTX 675MX 1024 MB
    Software  OS X 10.9.3 (13D65)@

    You need to contact Adobe Support either by chat or via phone when you have serial number and activation issues.
    Here is a link to a page with options to help make contact:
    http://www.adobe.com/support/download-install/supportinfo/

  • How do I check for bad sectors on the hard drive? (Need help soon!)

    I've asked this in a different thread but am not getting exactly the question answered completely. I need to run a check on my drive that will test each sector and if a bad sector is found, it will block that sector from being written to with data in the future.
    I used to use Disk First Aid or Apple HD Setup or Norton Utilities to do this. Norton does not appear to be made for Mac OSX 10.4.4 and those other utilities appear to be System 9 and earlier utilities only.
    Is there some way of doing this with current Apple tools? My original post is at http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=1592160#1592160
    Thank you. I've been down since Saturday and really need to get an answer so I can move forward and get my computer back up and running.

    There is only one way to do this. Make a bootable backup of your drive to an external Firewire drive (you can use the Restore option of Disk Utility.) Then do the following:
    1 Boot from your Tiger DVD. After the installer loads select Disk Utility from the Utilities.
    2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
    3. Set the number of partitions from the dropdown menu (use 1 partition unless you wish to make more.) Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled, if supported.) Click on the Partition button and wait until the volume(s) mount on the Desktop.
    4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
    5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled, if supported.) Click on the Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
    6. Click on the Erase button. The format process will take 30 minutes to an hour or more depending upon the drive size.
    By reformatting using the Zero Data option DU will force checking for bad blocks.
    If you wish to forego the above procedure you can purchase TechTool Pro (v. 4.1.1) which has a module for scanning the disk for bad blocks. However, repairing the drive can only be done by reformatting.

  • Need to do a clean install of FF31 after bad sectors on HDD caused installed FF to crash Windows upon opening.

    After running MRT update on Windows XP SP3, I rebooted my PC, and CHKDSK found and repaired four bad sectors on my HDD. After this, starting Firefox 31.0, even in Safe Mode, would cause Windows to freeze at the point the FF window appeared. No menus, no toolbars, just the window with the basic frame, but nothing inside it. All input devices were non-responsive, forcing me to do a hardware restart of my machine.
    Upon restart, everything else worked fine until I tried to start FF - then the OS froze again.
    Searching Firefox support, all answers I could find suggested deleting old (possibly corrupt) profile data with Profile Manager before reinstalling FF - but, if FF freezes the machine upon starting, there is no way to do that.
    How do I MANUALLY delete all old profile data, other Firefox data files, and registry entries from my PC so that I can do a clean install of FF 31.0?
    NOTE: The information given about my browser under "More System Details" is mostly WRONG. I am currently using the only browser that works - the outdated Orca Browser v1.2 with a Firefox 3 core. It is FF 31.0 that I am asking help with.
    Thank you in advance for any help you may be able to provide.

    You must totally remove Firefox. It sounds like part of it's programing
    was corrupted. Then '''[http://www.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/all/ Download Firefox Full Installer All languages]''' {web link}
    After installing, try FF. If your user file are okay, Great!
    *1 Download the Full installer and put it somewhere.
    *2 Rename your current '''C:\Program Files (x86)\Mozilla Maintenance Service''' and '''C:\Program Files (x86)\Mozilla Firefox'''. Add a '''X''' in front of the name (for example).
    *3 Run the disk check '''AGAIN''' just to be sure.
    *4 Now get the full installer and run it.
    *5 After the installer is done, then try out FF.

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