Intensity II Dead?

I have an Intensity II, and it seems to be completely devoid of "life." I tried charging it in the car today, and it wouldn't take power, not for five minutes, not for the five hours I was driving around today. Now I'm home and I put it on the wall charger, which I find more reliable. The screen flashed the Verizon logo for about 30 seconds, then went black. That's the most it's done in the better part of 24 hours.
Verizon's support page wants me to call in... which I can't do right now, does anyone know how to get them on the chat line? I was able to pull that off once, but I can't figure out how to do it again. Assistance greatly needed.

How old is the Intensity II? If it's still under warranty, you may be able to get it replaced. The issue may also be the battery - they do go bad. That's also a warranty item, but you can get those replaced (OEM) inexpensively with online vendors like batteries4Less, Cellular Accessories, Day Deal, etc. I price compare because they all offer different batteries at different prices, so I shop and get my best price/shipping deal at the time.
Is there another phone you can borrow to make the customer service call?
Getting a chat rep is hit or miss - usually one pops up while I am "shopping" for plan changes or new phones, but not always.

Similar Messages

How to diagnose dead battery vs. something more serious?

I'm in the 11th month of ownership of an MBA, purchased brand new last year. 128MB model.
My battery, I believe, is dead but I'm not sure how to diagnose the matter.
Here's what's lead me to this conclusion:
MBA charger light stays off when plugged in (not dim, but off).   I've had the dim light issue as well, earlier this year, and Apple replaced the charger. This time, however, the light stays completely off.
Battery icon in top right corner tells me that no charger is plugged in. The icon is in battery mode.
Battery charge keeps decreasing steadily in % value despite charger being plugged in, indicating that battery is continually discharging.
My wife has an MBP, and I've used her 85W charger on my MBA with the same result... i.e charger light stays off.   I know that the MBP charger is in good health as it charges the MBP with no issues (orange light).
I've used my MBA charger on her MBP, and it charges the MBP just fine!!! (orange light)
I've done an SMC and NVRAM reset on the MBA, which hasn't affected the situation.
Since I'm on 15% charge on the MBA, I've shut it down and have booked an appointment with Apple to have it looked at.
In the mean-time, I'm hoping to get some clues from fellow MacBook users on this forum.
I've read somewhere that if it is indeed the battery that's faulty, then once the charger is unplugged, the MBA should turn off immediately. This isn't the case for me... I'm able to run off battery (whatever tiny amount of charge I have left) with the charger unplugged.
Hence, I've ruled out the charger being faulty. I'm not so sure that the battery is faulty. I'm thinking the issue might lie elsewhere... maybe the magsafe connector on the MBA?
I should also mention that when I opened the lid on the MBA earlier this evening, before noticing this charging issue, the screen flickered brightly once. The screen looked and operated normally after the flicker. Not sure if there's a connection. I'm beginning to think there is.
I should also add that, even though the MBA has been a pleasure to use, the past 11 months haven't been trouble-free... which adds to the suspicion that the issue might indeed be somewhere deeper.
A brief history of "issues":
About a month or so into ownership... my fan, one day, decided to suddenly spin up to full RPMs and stayed at that speed for an eternity. I'm used to the fan speed steadily going up in direct relation to the CPU temp.   However, the CPU temp this time was 35C the entire time (according to iStat Menus)... i.e. the MBA was "stone cold". It made no sense for the fan to be on full-blast. In addition, I had nothing running. No intensive software. Not even Safari. Just "Finder".   Turning the MBA off naturally caused the fan to stop. However, the moment I powered it back on again, the fan came back on at full speed again.
An SMC reset fixed the issue, and I was good to go. This issue occurred again a few months later, but I solved it right away with the SMC reset.
After another month or so I noticed, while listening to music via headphones that were plugged into the MBA, that I could hear an electric "hum" in the headphones. Then all of a sudden the hum went away. I discovered that the hum was present only when I physically touched the metal case of the MBA and went away as soon as I removed my hand.   I mentioned this to a Genius bar... err... genius and he seemed perplexed. He wasn't able to offer an answer.
I've also noticed that when the MBA is charging, and I run my finger-tips over the MBA's metal surface that I feel static. When the charger is unplugged, I no longer feel the static.   Again the genius didn't have an answer. He probably thought I was weird.
I'm thinking my MBA might have "grounding" issues, but am no expert in this field.   With the latest charging issues, however, I'm leaning towards this theory again.
Thoughts are welcome.
Regards
MrAir

No clues, it is very apparent you have a hardware problem and it is not the battery. If it was the battery the computer would not be running as you say the charger is not charging the battery.
There is a charging curcuit that has more then likely failed. You have done the correct thing, take it in and get it fixed before your warranty runs out.

Hard Drive is dead - deciding what to do next

Hi all,
My computer is a 12 inch Powerbook G4. My hard drive is dead.
Here's what happened. Night before last my powerbook was freezing randomly. In retrospect the HDD was making some clicking noises but not consistently. Following morning it freezes one last time. On reboot, it won't finish starting up.
I run Tech Tool and all the HDD scans fail. I use Disk Utility on the Tiger OS CD and it also comes back saying that the HDD has failed. All the repair attempts by these tools fail. I read some articles here in the forum that led me to pay the $5 and download Data Rescue II boot cd file to try and see if I can recover anything. I'm burn the disk image to a cd, but am unable to boot off the disc.
I make an appointment at the Genius Bar at my local Apple Store to basically confirm what I think has happened. They hookup their firewire drive and see that basically there is nothing viewable on the HDD and that it is dead. Since I'm out of warranty, Apple's repair option is to pay around $300 to send it to their repair facility. I'm thinking I may do the replacement myself.
So, my understanding is that the drive that's in there is a 60GB 4200-rpm Ultra ATA/100 hard drive. My question is can I upgrade to faster, larger capacity drive? How do I know what drive will work?
Thanks for taking the time to read my post.

If you want size, definitely get the 250GB drive. It is the largest-to-date drive. I remember just "weeks" ago when I recommended this option to some folks, people thought I was fibbing since the previous option for largest drive was 160GB.
They also thought I might have been confusing it with the SATA drive for MacBook and MacBook Pro computers.
If you're looking at speed, then it's the 100GB drive at 7200RPMs. I'm sure eventually, they will come out with a higher capacity for the 7200RPMs, much like the 250GB story.
I debated over that myself, when I decided to tackle upgrading the drive on my other PowerBook, the 15-inch one. Those are easier. I don't think I will ever pop open the 12-inch PowerBook to do any work on it.
250GB gets space. I wanted it, but at the time, didn't have the money. I got a great deal on a Seagate 160GB 5400.3 RPM drive (the ".3" stand for the version drive you get). It was less than retail because of a price match, plus a store credit coupon I had.
So I went for it. Plus, this drive had Seagate's "perpendicular recording" technology that makes it just as fast--so reviews said--as the 100GB 7200RPM drives.
And 5400RPM vs. 7200RPM drives are really nominal in speed difference. It's not noticeable, according to my research. Where it is noticeable is video editing, and intense tasks. Then there's the factor of higher capacity drives with slower speeds, beating out lower capacity drives with higher speeds.
But I don't want to go in to that. I'll be talking all day!

Final cut 10.1 will not output or input thru Blackmagic intensity shuttle thunderbolt on 2013 Retina MBP while Premere Cs6 does

Final Cut 10.1 will not output or input thru Blackmagic intensity shuttle thunderbolt on 2013 Retina MBP while Premere Cs6 does

As I mentioned, Premere Cs6 has no issues with the BM Intensity Shuttle Thunderbolt. This proves that the Mac sees the shuttle. iMovie, like FCPX 10.1 does not see it. Not sure if this is an Apple issue or a BlackMagic issue. I plan to contact BlackMagic on Monday out of curiosity. This issue is more of a surprise than a dead end. Happily there are easy workarounds for capture. I use the BlackMagic software to capture. My main issue seems to be that I am unable to use FCPX to output through the Shuttle. Fortunately I have a Mac Pro and an older BlackMagic card which has worked. It is so very nice to skim video on an SSD. No lag and no wear and tear on a mechanical hard drive. The 1Tb Apple SSD is shockingly fast. It is a new world.

I have a dead pixel in my screen of my iPad 2 what should I do? The device is 5 days old.

Please help me I bought the iPad 2, 5 days ago and when it has a dead pixel and it is more intense when it warms up a bit what should I do?????

teopsihidis wrote:
Should I ask for a replacement???
You can always ask for a replacement, but this does not mean that you'll actually get one.
Also, there is no guarantee that your new iPad will be free of faulty pixels.
Any display, no matter from which manufacturer, can have or develop faulty pixels.

Display dead, then comes back to life- can Nvidia issue be intermittent?

I have a MacBook Pro MA896LL (Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa) that I use with an external display most of the time.
Rebooted a few days ago only to see nothing- sleep light on the computer was solid but laptop and external displays were blank. Disconnected external display and power-cycled, same thing- discovered that the computer is actually on but just no video (can boot in firewire mode, etc.). Tried the usually stuff, reset PRAM, SMC, left it off for a while, nothing. Figured I must have the dead Nvidia card issue.
Anyway, booted it back up today in Firewire mode to finish backing it up, and lo and behold, the display is working again!
Question- can the Nvidia issue be intermittent, or is it just working or not?
I have AppleCare, but repairs unfortunately involve me flying to Miami and hanging around for a few days while they repair it, and I'd hate to go and then they tell me it is not that problem, only to return home and have it again.
thanx

Welcome to Apple Discussions!
I think that the NVIDIA problem can be intermittent, and the fact that the external display was also blank does indicate the graphics card.
While the display is working, you might try running the extended version of the Apple Hardware Test and see if you get anything in the way of an error code.
Also, call Apple on the telephone to report the problem and to get a case number. Explain that the problem seems to be intermittent, and for that reason you would prefer not to fly to Miami for the reasons you gave. Ask if there is an AASP in your area that could do a diagnostic test. Apple has some sort of special procedure for testing for the NVIDIA issue, and it may be that someone local can do this for you.
If you get any results on the AHT or any other diagnostic test that would confirm the problem, then you can arrange to have the repair done at your convenience.
In the meantime, you might keep a log of when the problem occurs. For example, the chip may work fine when the computer has been off a while and is cold, but the problem might occur when the computer has been on a while, and maybe with intensive processor activity. If you can discover any conditions which will reliably cause the problem to occur, you will be much more successful at showing it to someone at Apple.
Good luck!

Mavericks and BMD Intensity Pro

Im looking to see if anyone had compatibility issues with Mavericks using the Black Magic Design Intensity Pro desktop video card?

I am having the same issue on my iMac that was udated to Mavericks a while back and apparently I haven't tried to log and transfer anything since.
The error comes up everytime I have a my Sandisk High Speed Card in my lexar Fire Wire 800 card reader. The Log and Transfer screen pops up and it starts adding the clips and instead of populating the screen, it crashes. Mine also says FCP quit while using the canonIHL plug in, here's a screen shot of the indication.
I agree, this needs to be resolved ASAP. I'm dead in the water. The only thing I can do is transfer the raw files into a folder somewhere, then import the clips, but then to have them as ProRes files I guess I would have to use compressor before hand. I've done it before, but it never runs as smoothly without it being natively imported.

Hp pavilion s5715 - computer freezes / black screen after i use it somewhat intensively

Hi,
I recently bought the HP Pavilion s5715 but when I used it even somewhat intensively (playing Left 4 Dead for example) it'll freeze / black screen after a short while (10 minutes or so).
I assume this has to do with overheating, but what would be a good fix for this? And how can I figure out what component overheats?

Hi,
Please use the following instructions:
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/windows-81s-power-settings-and-sleep.html?cid=RSS_DUMMIES2_CON...
Regards.
BH
**Click the KUDOS thumb up on the left to say 'Thanks'**
Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

Dead pixel surrounded by white spots

I have had my Powerbook G4 for about 3 months and have noticed a dead black pixel in the lower, center portion of the screen. I believe this deadpixel is abnormal because a cluster of white light surrounds it making the area appear larger than just the dead pixel (the white cluster is most apparent under greens, blues, dark colours). The white spot surrounding the dead pixel appears to be increasing in intensity and size.
Does anyone familiar with this problem? Could the dead pixel be affecting the pixels surrounding it? Will Apple replace my screen?
Denise.
Powerbook G4 Mac OS X (10.3)

Hi Denise & Welcome to Apple Discussions --
Take a look at the following Apple Kbase article, if you haven't already: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=22194
You also might find this web page to be of interest: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=11976
Sometimes, you can get rid of dead pixels by very, very gently massaging the are of the dead pixel with your thumb -- this doesn't always work, of course and you need to rub very, very gently.
Bottom line: if you're unhappy with how the screen looks because of the dead pixel(s), you need to take it in to have Apple look at it to determine what can be done. No one on here can make that call or can accurately predict what Apple will say.
Good luck.
-- JDee
PS You may have heard that some PowerBooks suffered from a known problem of faint white spots in the display, see http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86632 But, as you can see, this issue was with PowerBooks produced a while back (and at least 2 or 3 revisions ago, and to the best of my knowledge the problem has been resolved.

HDMI Intensity and Snow Leopard

FCP seems to be working fine on my intel iMac after Snow Leopard install. I am waiting to install it on my mac pro. If anyone installs it on a mac pro with black magic's HDMI intensity card, can you confirm if it works?

hi,
just upgraded to 3.2.6 for intensity pro on FCP 7 with snow leopard on my mac pro.
before, SD and HD monitoring was just fine.
now, HD monitoring is still working fine. but as soon as i switch to SD (be it down conversion from HD or actually playing a SD sequence inside FCP with monitoring switched to SD), i cannot get a proper picture on my SD monitor. via composite, i receive a black and white picture, but s-video (YC) is dead, there is only some distorted noise. for SD monitoring, i use a JVC pro monitor capable of both PAL and NTSC.
anybody know this problem, too?
thank you!

Irritating dead pixel issue

So I got my 2nd gen Touch a few weeks ago, and I really like it. Only problem is there's a fiercely annoying dead pixel towards the bottom of the screen. And here's the worst part: it seems to fluctuate in intensity, so sometimes it's barely noticeable and other times it's painfully obvious. I sent it in a few days ago via online service request, and get the "we have been unable to reproduce the symptoms you reported" email. Knowing my luck, they must have checked it when the dead pixel decided it wanted to behave.
I've tried everything to get the lousy pixel working again: flashing different colors in rapid succession, massaging the pixel, etc.
What do I do!?! This is really driving me up the wall. I want to enjoy the stupid thing, but I can't when this pixel distracts me.

have you tried restoring it?
otherwise, i agree with Chris. dead pixels are not normal, you don't have to put up with it. take advantage of the guarantee, take it back and get it looked at (they'll probably replace it.

Smasung Intensity II - Problems

Tried a Samsung Intensity II - had two issues. The least of them was that the software had no photo editing options for rotation and cropping - key when making wallpapers out of pictures. Sepia-tone and even emboss was included as edits that can be saved!
More important, though, there seemed to be a bug where if a key was pressed during a conversation, the person on the receiving end would receive a beep, but none would come through the phone where the key was pressed.
Likewise, though the Samsung Intensity II has a media-player, the media files could not be played through Bluetooth - they would only be played through the speakerphone.
There was also the stray txt message that I would receive and not be able to open. When attempting to do so, the phone would reboot.
Connecting to a PC, I was also unable to upload/download pictures or ringtones to the phone. I could Sync music files to it, but did not have access to the other two areas. This is a little frustrating because my wife and I are classical musicians and the supplied ringtones are all techno.
All these sound like sloppy software writing, however, my last complain seems like hardware. When connected with a Bluetooth device (essentially required in this state due to driving laws), there would be audible electronic interference, an oscillation of various electronic pitches. My wife compares it to listening to a dial-up modem while having a conversation.
Am I alone? I also just tried it's direct competitor, the LG Cosmos, and it has its own problems.

Thank you for writing, unfortunately you have addressed none of my specific concerns.
Wallpaper/photo editing:
Resizing the picture to a preset is not the aim - cropping is. If I take a picture of my wife and want her face dead-center in the photo, it requires cropping. This is "native" on most devices, including the LG Cosmos, its direct competitor (though the LG Cosmos take poorer pictures, comparitively).
Since my original post, I have managed to find the Rotate/Flip option, but there are no 90 degree options for rotating, it only will rotate a few degrees at a time. Perhaps in several minutes the image will have rotated far enough. Most pictures that need rotating simply need to change from "landscape" to "portrait", it's frustrating that the device assumes you only want to take pictures in one orientation.
Keypad recognition:
Volume has nothing to do with this particular problem. The problem is that the device that has its keys pressed does not playback the sound on its own speaker (earpiece, speakerphone, or even bluetooth), but the sound *is* broadcast to the person on the other end of the phone call. At this point keypad volume only applies to interacting with the phone while not on a call.
Bluetooth playing media files:
Again, since my original post I contacted Samsung on a few of these issues. It was explained to me simply that the device is not designed to play back media/music files through a standard bluetooth headset (the most common type, mounted on on ear with a speaker and a microphone). It theoretically is supposed to work with a *stereo* Bluetooth device, but that requires a considerable investment and certainly cannot be used while driving, while a single-ear Bluetooth (what the general populace uses) could. Again, if this is how it is designed to work, it is a poor design.
Text message concern:
This has occured on only two or three occasions. On the first, a corrupted message is potntially the issue, however, it could not even be deleted as accessing it in any way rebooted the phone. The second and third times were more slippery - after rebooting the system once, accessing the message thereafter was without issue. I am still inclined to think the error is in the software, but it si not a frequent problem. Then again, we d not frequently text.
Connecting to a PC:
There are some fine recommendations here, *however* they only apply to using an microSD storage card as USB mass storage. My desire was to to get access to the data on the phone itself - calendar and ringtones, specifically. If you do not have a microSD memory card in the device (they do not come with any), then the USB Mass Storage option is disabled.
With USB Mass Storage, it is theoretically possible to load ringtone files onto your microSD card, and then use the internal software in the phone to "set as ringtone" a particular music clip, but I have not yet tried this.
Bluetooth sound concern:
Pairing/unpairing a device had no affect. Using different bluetooth devices and different phones did not resolve the issue either; we tried pairing three different bluetooth models (two different Plantronics models and a Samsung model - of which we've tried four of that model - also of which the problem was actually the worst) on the four Samsung Intensity IIs that have entered our hands, and all have the same issue. The same Bluetooth devices did not have this problem on other phones (LG Cosmos, enV2, and Voyager were the ones in our experience). This also occured at all volume levels, though, of course, it was softer, just like the person we'd be trying to hear through the interference. Soft resets do not impact it, and noise-cancelling filters really only apply to the microphone end, not to the in-ear speaker.
Furthermore, the issue occured anytime the phone broadcast sound to the headset, such as during the navigation of voice command menus. It would stop if, say, for example, the person I was talking to had been listening for an extended period of time (thus not broadcasting their voice into my ear). It occured whether at home or on the road, location and surrounds were not factors.
I am not describing "white noise", or mild static - I'm describing recognizable pitches, not to different from listening to an old dial-up modem when making a connection.
Thank you for writing, but your generic answers did not resolve the specific issues I am bringing up. As an addendum, however, I will add that my wife and I tried the Samsung Intensity II, then the LG Cosmos, and then decided to return to the Samsung Intensity II. In the end, even with the above complaints, we found the Samsung Intensity II preferable to its competition, albeit it is a choice where we had to figure out what we could live with, rather than being completely happy with a phone.
The biggest complaint is not leveled at the devices themselves, but at the reclasification of phones into three data categories. We had been perfectly happy with the performance and features of the LG Voyager and the LG enV2, however, it became impossible to get similar quality phones with our New-Every-Two promotion, without ALSO shelling out an additional $20 / month in data plans we'd be afraid to use lest we go over the limits. Why do the enV3 and enV Touch (the direct descendents of our previous phones) require data plans? We'd be happy to use the phones without data, as we had their forebears. So, in essence, we've had to DOWNgrade our phones with the New-Every-Two promotion, instead of UPgrade. We're paying the same amount per month, but getting less out of it.

MacBook Pro 15" (late 2008) seems dead. Faulty product?

Hello,
I am actually not very happy right now. My MBP died yesterday morning. I closed the lid the night before, like I have been doing for 1,5 years, and the next day, I opened it and it stayed black. I heard the HDD boot up, I even added a CD to test if my keyboard was still reacting. Nothing seemed more true.
That's where the problem started. I was (and am still) getting annoyed with this. Since I'm quite sure Apple laptops, with or without warranty, should survive 1,5 years of normal yet intensive use. I think we're dealing with a faulty product here. Apple's procedures, which I am happily following, require an investigation which seem to cost me 80 euros. I've called with Apple Support and they promised me a free investigation (probably just to tell me that the Logic board is dead, which costs 800 euros if I'm correct...). Today, I tried to bring it to a service point but was told that they couldn't promise me that the research would be free... So I kept the laptop, I'm not willing to take that risk just now, and called back. Angry.
Now I have been postponed to monday, because the supervisor wasn't there.
What's your take on this? I do not feel I am being treated correctly. Anyone have any pointers or experiences that kind of match this? How did you solve this? Talk please.
Yours faithfully,
Bjorn Schijff

eww, I'd very nearly classify my MBP as 1.5 years old. I got it in early November 2008, very close to 16 months ago. In fact, I think it will be 16 months ago tomorrow.
Anyway, I think it's likely that our poster here may have a unibody MBP. Bjorn, does your MBP look like the ones at http://www.apple.com/macbookpro ? Or does it have an all-silver keyboard?
If it does not look like the current generation, then you have an older, non-unibody MBP. In that case, your problem may be covered under the special circumstances surrounding the 8600M GT graphics card in that generation of MBPs.
If it does look like the current generation, then I'm afraid you may be on the hook for the repairs. But, have you tried something simple like an SMC/PRAM reset?
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1379
There is unfortunately nothing we can do if the computer fails after 1.5 years and you do not have Applecare. It is the exact same thing as with any other electronic product. If the product fails after the warranty period ends, well, sometimes it is just bad luck. I think your comments about faulty products and such are misfounded. There are hundreds of thousands (if not millions) of MBPs or Powerbooks out there that go (and have gone) 10+ years without any problems. Some do not. It is just the nature of anything electronic we buy right now.
--Travis

G4 Mini Hard Drive dead?

Hi All,
I've been unable to start my Mini and using Disk Warrior to try to fix the hard drive yielded the message ""Directory cannot be rebuilt due to a disk access error (0, 1613)""
Does this mean the hard drive is dead? or would I still be able to use the hard drive with a fresh reinstall?
Thanks

Hi all,
I'm experiencing the same problem as krs24rbn, it looks that my hard disk is dead, but would like to be sure of it before buying a new HD.
Is there any way to be suere of this? I started seeing wrong behaviour before installing last Apple update to 10.4.8. I first experienced some problems with mail going slow, then accessing internet with Safari and FireFox hangups, specially with java intensive webs. Other weird things occur like iTunes radio volume going down and up depending on internet traffic, (or at least it looked taht way).
Then found some problems to start up, I begun backing up and got most of my files on a safe externl HD. When I was almost done some files appear unable to copy correctly. Finally my mini got dead.
I erased the disc and instaled a fresh copy of Tiger, booted normally and start to reinstall.
After one or two days problems began again, so format, reinstall....
Sometimes Disk Utility command Repair Disk worked fine others stopped reparing with message "invalid node structure" and
"Error:la tarea subyacete ha registrado un fallo a la salida".
Rigth now I can start from my CD and intall the
mac OS but my mini can't boot. It shows the apple logo on a grey screen, that's it!
Shoud I change my disk? is there any tool to repair/eliminate phisical bad sectors on the disc?

'Virtual' dead pixels on MBP 15" display

Every now and then, my MBP exhibits 'virtual' dead pixels. They look just like ordinary dead pixels in that random pixels on the screen just stay white. However, they are 'virtual' in the sense that I can screenshot them and when I do an accessibility zoom, the 'dead' pixels zoom too.
This happens sporadically, but - I think - it's the same 2-3 pixels each time. It only tends to happen when I've laboured the graphics card for a while (e.g. plugged in to two external displays with graphics-intensive applications open), but they persist for a while after that.
This seems like a graphics card issue to me - has anyone else experienced this?

About LCD display pixel anomalies for Apple products released before 2010
About LCD display pixel anomalies for Apple products released in 2010 and later - Apple Support
MacBook Pro (15-inch Mid 2012), OS X Yosemite (10.10), i7 500GB 16GB RAM iPhone5 iOS8.1

Intensity II Dead?

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