Interesting finds on Audigy 2 Clicking and popp

Hi, I thought my card was bad but I see I'm not the only one. I was playing FEAR and noticed the clicking and popping sound. So I saved at the exact point where it was and decided to investigate why. I tried every driver release Creative had for the card. No luck. No IRQ sharing, disabled firewire, cleaned registry, relocated to 3 different PCi slots. Still clicking and popping. Turned off Cool and Quiet and still clicks. So changed the latency settings and still clicks. All that was left to do was mess around with game settings. Sound settings did nothing, EAX nothing, changing hardware excelleration did nothing, and then I finally stopped it. I turned AA off. I had it at 4x, clicked really bad. Put it at 2x and clicking downgraded. Put it at 0 and clicking was gone. Now remember I saved it at a spot that clicked everytime I reloaded the save so this was an experiment with every setting and change I could do to find out what it was. With AA enabled,if I turned the slightest to the left and right, it would click. If I stopped just right it would do a clicking loop. Click, click, click, and wouldn't stop. Just the slightest turn and it would stop. So it has to do with either a driver conflict or conflicts with certain cards. I had it to in HL2. The question is why would aa effect the sound output of the card? Another person here found out the same thing I did but his was in HL2. Turned the settings to what the game wanted and the clicking went away. So now we have to figure out why and some of us will have the problem solved. I know not everyone will be fixed but alot of us will. Here are my system specs:
AMD 64 3700+ Clawhammer latest driver and C&Q enabled
ASUS K8V Deluxe latest bios
gig Corsair XMSPLT at 2-2-2-5-t
Sapphire X800XT at stock using Cat 5.
Audigy 2 retail using betas
PC Power and Cooling Turbo Cool 50 SLI
latest Via driversMessage Edited by radeon666 on -23-2005 07:55 AMMessage Edited by radeon666 on -23-2005 07:57 AM

well, i installed this in a completely different device with minimal hardware and the same problem occurs. seems like the card could have been built with some better shielding. anyways, you would think that if you spend $200 on a piece of hardware, you wouldn't have to spend 0 hours trying to get it to work properly.

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