Internal parts for a MBP

I accidentally tore the ribbon cable going to the sleep light on the front of my MBP while changing out the hard drive. The ribbon runs across the hard drive and is very fragile.
Where can I purchase this cable in order to replace it?

Hello,
[Internal Key assignmnet|http://www.sdn.sap.com/irj/scn/go/portal/prtroot/docs/library/uuid/40155eaa-6437-2e10-afbc-de54b31329d9?QuickLink=index&overridelayout=true]
Have a look at the mentioned document, and let us know if this fulfill's the requirement,
If you are look for MDM Auto ID, well this increments automatically for every new record added in the MDM Repository.
Regards,
Abhishek

Similar Messages

Where to buy parts for MBP Retina

So I was wondering if it was possible to buy the individual keys for a MBP retina 15". I spilled literally a drop of orange juice on the - key and I thought I had soaked up most of it, but about two days later that key got extremely sticky to use so I popped it off per some instructions I found. Well, in the process I broke off this TINY little piece of plastic that the key attaches to in one corner and now that key just kinda stays there but it's really loose. I can see the TINY little part that is broken on the key itself, so does anyone know if these parts are available online anywhere?

Call for an appointment and ask if you can wait.

Looking for recommendations - new internal drive for MBP

Hi all,
I have a 17" MBP core 2 duo from a couple of years ago, with a 100GB 7200rpm drive. I want to swap out the drive with a new 500GB drive, still 7200rpm, so I'm looking for recommendations as to what people think are the current best of the crop. Any suggestions?
Cheers,
Antonio

I was looking for a 500GB 7200RPM drive for my MBP 15" at the end of 2008, but no one made one yet. I saw the Seagate ST9500420ASG 500GB 7200RPM 16MB BUFFER SERIAL ATA listed as coming soon on MacMall and a few other places in January 2009 and ordered it as soon as it was available.
I had done some research on power consumption and performance... Tom's Hardware had some good info on the subject. The fastest drives at the time were the 320GB 7200 RPM and 500GB 5400 RPM. If the trends I came across during my research held up, power consumption for the new Seagate shouldn't have affected my battery life too much. All my research seemed to confirm this.
Now that I have been using the drive for a few months, I can tell you that my batter life has taken a HUGE hit. I used to easily get 5 hours with my old 120 GB stock drive... now, I'm lucky if I get 2 hours. Plus, it seems that this drive gets hot enough to cause performance issues.. I'm not sure if that's the case yet, but I will be bringing my MBP into the Apple store to check on it.
At this point, I'm willing to sacrifice some speed for more battery life and a cooler running computer.
All this to say, be sure you're willing to sacrifice some battery life for the biggest and fastest drive around.

OS Lion Slow, is it too much for my MBP?

hi everyone-
I have a 2007 model MBP, 2.33 GHz Intel core 2 duo. I upgraded everything I could within the last year with a 500 gb internal hard drive and 4GB 667 MHz memory installed. Out of that 500GB hard drive, almost 290GB are available.
I upgraded to Lion and everything seemed to run well at first and was impressed with the speed. However recently everything has slowed down. I searched the forums and found tips on disk repair and repairing permissions, which ended up making the OS unable to boot at the startup screen. Thank god for time machine. Long story short, I pulled out my old Snow Leopard disk and reinstalled (yes I also tried the lion recovery, which didn't help), and then went and reinstalled lion from the app store. 1 weekend later and now Monday, I'm back to having everything running. However today I am noticing that the apps are lagging once again,and I'm constantly getting the beach ball and little gestures are taking forever to load. Could Lion be too much for my MBP, which up until recently flew?
Any and all suggestions will be helpful. I use my MBP everyday for my workload, so getting this to perform again and keep up with my demand is extremely important.
Thanks!

Check the SMART status in Disk Utility. Other than that, not that I know of. Perhaps more advanced disk utilities like Disk Warrior, but I don't know.
You would hear the disk making a lot of noise if it were having issues accessing a bad sector.
I had a drive that started causing slow-downs and beach balls for a while. Erased drive and reinstalled. Same thing. The SMART status in Disk Utility showed Verified up until the drive died completely.

Looking for small part for HPw2207 monitor

Hello. I am looking for a small circuit board part for my HPw2207 monitor. After searching for solutions to a OSD Lockout problem, I found that pressing the Menu button for 10 seconds should stop it. However, the switch itself seemed stuck in the "on" position. So, as I am fairly adept at repairing things, I decided to open the monitor and see what the problem was. Well, I found it. After discovering how to remove the front and rear plastic bezel, down at the bottom of the monitor, where the Menu buttons are, there was a small circuit board housing and switch button assembly, that was all corroded. I removed it to look closer and what did I find?? It was CAT PEE!!! One of my wife's cat's must have sprayed the corner where these switches are, and as cat pee is very acidic, it had completely corroded the 3 pins on the circuit board connector, and froze up 3 of the 4 micro switches. So now, my only recourse to fix this is to order a new circuit board assembly. So......this is my question.
Are these parts still available, and if so, how do I order them. I do have some numbers from the circuit board itself, which is held in place with the button assembly by two small screws.
On the front side of the circuit board, there is a number, which may or may not be the complete assembly number or perhaps the circuit board number, but I'm not sure. Here it is.
7900771500000R
On the back side of the circuit board(green side) there was this number.
490481500600
I don't even need the entire assembly. Only the circuit board. I just purchased this monitor and can't afford another one.
I may be able to use the monitor withOUT the circuit board in place, if it will work. I'm going to reassemble it without it to check. But if this circuit board is available, I would sure like to get one so I have access to the Menu items. Since these monitors are still being sold(at Staples) I assume parts MUST be available, but from my experience in searching HP...well, I wouldn't doubt they arn't. But just in case...that's why I am posting this thread. Thanks for any help.
Oh...btw...the CAT is GONE now. History. Good riddance too. He pee'd on more than this monitor too. Ruined half a dozen things of mine and this was the last straw.
Thanks
Rick
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi Rick,
You might look on eBay for the part or Google the part number. HP considers monitors consumables so internal parts are not stocked.
I don't think an extended warranty will cover TCP (tom cat piss) even if you had one.
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

Link to purchase internal webcam for G56

I cannot find a direct link to purchase an internal webcam for this G56. Could someone assist? Thanks

ashleyquick wrote:
I cannot find a direct link to purchase an internal webcam for this G56. Could someone assist? Thanks
Hi,
You may find the right part number in the service guide. Go to the Support & Drivers on the top of this page, then enter your laptop model and search it. When the product homepage comes up, go to the User Guides section and find a Maintenance and Service Guide for G56/CQ56 laptops.
You could also go on ebay and search for "webcam G56 laptop"..
Dv6-7000 /Full HD/Core i5-3360M/GF 650M/Corsair 8GB/Intel 7260AC/Samsung Pro 256GB
Testing - HP 15-p000
HP Touchpad provided by HP
Currently on Debian Wheeze
*Please, help other users with the same issue by marking your solved topics as "Accept as Solution"*

What is the best system maintenance software to use for a MBP??

Hello everyone, I was formerly using Mac Tune-up for my Macbook Pro and it did an okay job but I am not sure what Mac software I should be using to keep my system clean while keeping it running at optimal performance. Turns-out I can no longer use Mac Tune-Up since I upgraded to Mavericks from Snow Leopard. Can anyone recommend to me the best system maintenance software to use for my MBP with Mavericks OS and where I can get it (a link or site URL)? Thanks in advance!

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make two or more backups of all your files, keeping at least one off site at all times in case of disaster. One backup is not enough to be safe. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of trouble with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac" and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for, and doesn't change the way other software works.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
4. Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts. Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions. Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
5. Avoid malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but malware is now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
6. Don't fill up your disk/SSD. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a startup failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
7. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform. A well-made computing device is not something you should have to think about much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that needs a lot of attention, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

Assign multiple internal parts (materials of different plants) to one MPN

HI
I have a requirement to assign multiple internal parts (materials of different plants) to one manufacture part number.
but in HERS material type it allows to assign to only one .
can any body suggest how can I do this.
Sreeram

You can do that.
1:Assign the new plant to the sales org / distribution channel - Enterprise structure
2:DO the shipping point determination for the new plant.
3:Extend the materials to the new plant.
4:If there is intercompnay process, please check "Assignmnet of organizational units to plants" in navigation SD - Billing - Intercompany billing.
5: Check if there are any pricing records, output records....et cwhich has Plant as parameters. if yes maintain the entries for the new plant.
These are the things I could think of.
Before deleting the existing plants, make sure there are no open documents existing for these plants, else system will not allow to delete.
Regards
Sai
Edited by: Sai on Jun 1, 2010 4:19 PM

International Data for iPad 2

I want to buy an iPad 2 with 3G on the Verizon network. However, I will be using it internationally for some parts of the year. I need to know if I will be able to get an international plan for the iPad, and how this works with it being a pre-paid device. I know that the iPad works on the CDMA network, and this will limit me when it comes to international partners that the iPad will work on. I've tried to find international coverage maps showing where Verizon has partners, but have had no luck. I'll be using the device in Vancouver, British Columbia in Canada, as well as France. Where can I find more information about what the plans cost, how I sign up for one, and where the device will work ? I really need UMTS speeds when traveling as well, as this will be my primary internet connection.
Thank you for your time, and all help is appreciated !

Hi rct123,
I appreciate you interest in our International Services. You are correct the iPad 2 operates on CDMA technology. The iPad2 will work in Canada because it's a CDMA country. However, France in A GSM country and the iPad will not work with our roaming partners. I have included a link which details the Canada Global Data Plan. Please let me know if you have any additional questions. You can PM me your number if you would like to add to the Global Plan.
Thank you for your contribution to our community forums,

Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?

Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?

Odd you ask that, since both are HORRIBLE,   ... especially often draining your battery low.
General consideration of your MacBook battery
Contrary to popular myths about notebook batteries, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot ‘overcharge’ your notebook when plugged in and already fully charged.
However if you do not plan on using your notebook for several hours, turn it off (plugged in or otherwise), since you do not want your Macbook ‘both always plugged in and in sleep mode’.
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium-Ion cells the "80% Rule", meaning use 80% of the full charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life. The only quantified damage done in the use of Lithium Ion batteries are instances where the internal notebook battery is “often drained very low”, this is bad general use of your notebook battery.
A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 40% remaining of a 100% charge has a better battery condition state than, say, another person who has 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 10-15% remaining on a 100% charge. DoD (depth of discharge) is much more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook’s battery than the count of charge cycles. There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in specific. Frequent high depth of discharge rates (draining the battery very low) on a Lithium battery will hasten the lowering of maximum battery capacity.
All batteries in any device are a consumable meant to be replaced eventually after much time, even under perfect use conditions.
If the massive amount of data that exists on lithium batteries were to be condensed into a simplex, helpful, and memorable bit of information it would be:
1. While realistically a bit impractical during normal everyday use, a lithium battery's longevity and its chemistry's health is most happy swinging back and forth between 20% and 85% charge roughly.
2. Do not purposefully drain your battery very low (10% and less), and do not keep them charged often or always high (100%).
3. Lithium batteries do not like the following:
A: Deep discharges, as meaning roughly 10% or less on a frequent basis.
B: Rapid discharges as referring to energy intensive gaming on battery on a frequent basis (in which case while gaming, if possible, do same on power rather than battery). This is a minor consideration.
C: Constant inflation, as meaning always or most often on charge, and certainly not both in sleep mode and on charge always or often.
From Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
In a lithium battery, deep discharges alter the chemistry of the anode to take up lithium ions and slowly damages the batteries capacity for the cathode to transport lithium ions to the anode when charging, thereby reducing max charge levels in mAh. In short, radical swings of power to lithium cells disrupts the chemical ecosystem of the battery to hold charges correctly which likewise impedes the perfect transfer of lithium ions both in charging and discharging. In charging your lithium battery, lithium ions are “pushed uphill” (hard) to the anode, and discharged “downhill” (easy) to the cathode when on battery power. Deep discharges, damages this “upward” electrolyte chemistry for the battery to maintain a healthy charge and discharge balance relative to its age and cycles.
Optimally, in terms of a healthy lithium battery and its condition, it is most happy at 50% between extremes, which is why low-power-drain processors such as the Haswell are ideal on lithium battery health since a partially charged battery with a low-drain processor has, in general, much more usage in hours
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.
From BASF: How Lithium Batteries work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjyJhe7Q1g
Peace

Where can I order new parts for the A60?

I was wondering if anyone knew where you can order new parts for the A60. At the moment my A60 is in bits... My dog stood on the AC connector at the back and snapped the internal prong off.
I've removed the part by removing the solder from the component which was relatively easy to do.... but now i've got to find the new part which seems not so easy. The part is relatively simple so i would imagine quite cheap so i thought i'd fit it myself and save the repair bill which i couldn't justify paying on such an old laptop. I searched this site to find an email support but can't seem to find one anywhere.
Any ideas are welcome.
Thanks .
Snoot.

Hello
You can contact the Toshiba authorized Service partner and there you can order all compatible and supported parts for your notebook.
On this site you will find the ASP which is responsible for your country.
http://eu.computers.toshiba-europe.com/cgi-bin/ToshibaCSG/generic_content.jsp?service=EU&ID=ASP_SUPPORT
Bye

Upgraded 2012 MACBOOK PRO 2.6Ghz 8GB RAM 750 GB an alternate for RETINA MBP 15 or NOT?How good is its potential, reliability ?

I am a student and an aspiring filmmaker.I am also into digital cinematography (Canon 550D) and now will be venturing into editing. I am in DIRE NEED of help
I have a few problems regarding the purchase of Macbook pro.I live in Kolkata(India).I have been waiting for the past 1 and a half years to buy a Mac but after the release of Retina Macbook pro 15.I am left confused. Its near unupgradability and unreparibility rumors, delayed delivery, and 1st generation hardware issues especially the lack of Optical drive made me reconsider my decision of buying one.
I want to know whether I can go for the top model of Non Retina - 2.6Ghz 8GB RAM 750 GB 1 GB Nvidea as an alternate choice for Retina MBP pro or NOT ?
1.I wanted to buy the Retina Base model. Though it is very recently launched and there is a big risk buying it because they say it is unrepairable and unfixable as 'everything is glued into the motherboard' dialogue scares me. Something goes wrong after purchase and they send it back to US, is what the Apple officials said. Moreover they don’t keep one on a demo at Apple stores in kolkata. I have searched almost everywhere and have been to many resellers in my city but no use.
NOW,I am very sceptical about custom ordering a Macbook 15 non retina with High-Res 1680X1050p from US.I don’t know how much custom duty or expenses I have to pay and is it safe or not. Time is also a factor. Sadly, I have to buy one in Kolkata (my city) it seems.
2. I am opting for Macbook Pro 15,2.6 Ghz,8GB RAM. Buying it for the sole purpose of editing(audio, video, photos).I need something which is fast along with a good screen size. My original decision was to buy the 17inch but after the launch of Retina and the upgraded 15 inch, I am only looking forward to the upgraded models. Many say 13 inch is fast, but it features a dual core with a maximum of 2.9Ghz clockspeed. I on the other hand want a quad core i7 with good upgradability options and a good screen size. The 13 inch may be a favorite for many, but I want nothing less than a 15 inch. One good option I get with non Retina 15 is its upgradability, while many say Retina MBP 15 can be made upgradable in future but that time is yet to come and by the time the whole web becomes ‘retina friendly’ and all applications supporting its 2880X1800 resolution, I may end up waiting only. Yes the picture quality remains unbeatable when compared to Retina Pro and it will always be. Though friends, I am a student, I want something which is fast, can run almost anything and future dependable. Retina Mac book Pro in India is 2799 USD - Base model. I cannot pay that amount just for the screen. As far as speed is concerned, I plan to get an OWC SSD and a 16 GB OWC RAM in the future resulting in greater speed when comparing the configuration with Retina 15.That problem is solved.
My problem here is this: The web is filled with reviews and videos of Retina Macbook Pro and the upgraded Macbook Pro 15 is just no where, if you even find a few videos, they only feature unboxing videos of Macbook pro 15 (i7-2.3Ghz-4GB-500GB-500MB Nvidea).Other videos compare the 2.3ghz model with Retina 15 pro. They are not elaborate like the 15 Retina Pro reviews.
1. I want to know about the real performance, potential, pros, cons of Macbook Pro 15 (i7 2.6Ghz 8GB RAM 750 GB 1GB Nvidea graphics).
So my question to you is what is your opinion on the 15 inch non retina ? HOW FAST do you think is the new upgraded 15inch non retina i7-2.6Ghz-8GB-750GB model really is ?I have read on many mac forums and seen on a particular youtube video that 15inch 2.3Ghz model takes an alarming 40 seconds to start because of traditional hard drive ! A normal DELL Inspiron starts at 15 secs max with i3+4 GB RAM and this particularly confuses me about the whole quad core processing and stuff and speed when running applications like C6,FCP,Lightroom etc is to be determined in regard to the model I want to buy.
2. Is it necessary to buy APPLE CARE WARRANTY when buying a laptop from Apple.What are the benefits and how is it different form the normal customer care ?
3. Please enlighten me on some nice headphones from Sennheizer under 90 USD.I am considering Sennheiser HD 439.I am not a bass freak and I want something to use for listening to voice, loud clear. In short, a headphone for all purpose. I heard the HD 449 is not that good compared to HD 439.They say it is Jazz oriented. Another confusion !
Finally, If you know anyone who knows about this configuration (15inch 2.6 8GB RAM 750GB) and its performance than please help me out my friends. Any small detail, input, you feel like please let me know. Please help me be sure and satisfied am buying my Macbook Pro very soon and I am awaiting your response.

Well, are you talking about a 750 Hard Drive or SSD? If SSD (quite expensive) it will certainly be as fast. One option is to get the smallest HD they have and with the Non Retina you can upgrade the HD to an SSD later or now but save a little money. Check with iFixit or OWC for instructions. HD's do take longer to start up and load, but once open, the processor and video work just the same as on the Retina model. The SSD speed is nice, but really not critical. So you have to wait a minute for your computer to boot up. The other big question is you need to find out if the non-retina model will take 16GB of ram. According to OWC's site, it will, 16GB for 150USD. Once you get programs open and resident in ram, everything will fly.

MACBOOK PRO 2.6Ghz 8GB RAM 750 GB(Upgraded MBP 2012) an alternate for RETINA MBP 15 or NOT?How good is its potential, reliability ?

I am a student and an aspiring filmmaker.I am also into digital cinematography (Canon 550D) and now will be venturing into editing. I am in DIRE NEED of help
I have a few problems regarding the purchase of Macbook pro.I live in Kolkata(India).I have been waiting for the past 1 and a half years to buy a Mac but after the release of Retina Macbook pro 15.I am left confused. Its near unupgradability and unreparibility rumors, delayed delivery, and 1st generation hardware issues especially the lack of Optical drive made me reconsider my decision of buying one.
I want to know whether I can go for the top model of Non Retina - 2.6Ghz 8GB RAM 750 GB 1 GB Nvidea as an alternate choice for Retina MBP pro or NOT ?
I wanted to buy the Retina Base model. Though it is very recently launched and there is a big risk buying it because they say it is unrepairable and unfixable as 'everything is glued into the motherboard' dialogue scares me. Something goes wrong after purchase and they send it back to US, is what the Apple officials said. Moreover they don’t keep one on a demo at Apple stores in kolkata. I have searched almost everywhere and have been to many resellers in my city but no use.
NOW,I am very sceptical about custom ordering a Macbook 15 non retina with High-Res 1680X1050p from US.I don’t know how much custom duty or expenses I have to pay and is it safe or not. Time is also a factor. Sadly, I have to buy one in Kolkata (my city) it seems.
I am opting for Macbook Pro 15,2.6 Ghz,8GB RAM. Buying it for the sole purpose of editing(audio, video, photos).I need something which is fast along with a good screen size. My original decision was to buy the 17inch but after the launch of Retina and the upgraded 15 inch, I am only looking forward to the upgraded models. Many say 13 inch is fast, but it features a dual core with a maximum of 2.9Ghz clockspeed. I on the other hand want a quad core i7 with good upgradability options and a good screen size. The 13 inch may be a favorite for many, but I want nothing less than a 15 inch. One good option I get with non Retina 15 is its upgradability, while many say Retina MBP 15 can be made upgradable in future but that time is yet to come and by the time the whole web becomes ‘retina friendly’ and all applications supporting its 2880X1800 resolution, I may end up waiting only. Yes the picture quality remains unbeatable when compared to Retina Pro and it will always be. Though friends, I am a student, I want something which is fast, can run almost anything and future dependable. Retina Mac book Pro in India is 2799 USD - Base model. I cannot pay that amount just for the screen. As far as speed is concerned, I plan to get an OWC SSD and a 16 GB OWC RAM in the future resulting in greater speed when comparing the configuration with Retina 15.That problem is solved.
My problem here is this: The web is filled with reviews and videos of Retina Macbook Pro and the upgraded Macbook Pro 15 is just no where, if you even find a few videos, they only feature unboxing videos of Macbook pro 15 (i7-2.3Ghz-4GB-500GB-500MB Nvidea).Other videos compare the 2.3ghz model with Retina 15 pro. They are not elaborate like the 15 Retina Pro reviews.
I want to know about the real performance, potential, pros, cons of Macbook Pro 15 (i7 2.6Ghz 8GB RAM 750 GB 1GB Nvidea graphics).
So my question to you is what is your opinion on the 15 inch non retina ? HOW FAST do you think is the new upgraded 15inch non retina i7-2.6Ghz-8GB-750GB model really is ?I have read on many mac forums and seen on a particular youtube video that 15inch 2.3Ghz model takes an alarming 40 seconds to start because of traditional hard drive ! A normal DELL Inspiron starts at 15 secs max with i3+4 GB RAM and this particularly confuses me about the whole quad core processing and stuff and speed when running applications like C6,FCP,Lightroom etc is to be determined in regard to the model I want to buy.
A. Is it necessary to buy APPLE CARE WARRANTY when buying a laptop from Apple. What are the benefits and how is it different form the normal customer care ?
B. Please enlighten me on some nice headphones from Sennheizer under 90 USD.I am considering Sennheiser HD 439.I am not a bass freak and I want something to use for listening to voice, loud clear. In short, a headphone for all purpose. I heard the HD 449 is not that good compared to HD 439.They say it is Jazz oriented. Another confusion !
Finally, If you know anyone who knows about this configuration (15inch 2.6 8GB RAM 750GB) and its performance than please help me out my friends. Any small detail, input, you feel like please let me know. Please help me be sure and satisfied am buying my Macbook Pro very soon and I am awaiting your response.

Well, are you talking about a 750 Hard Drive or SSD? If SSD (quite expensive) it will certainly be as fast. One option is to get the smallest HD they have and with the Non Retina you can upgrade the HD to an SSD later or now but save a little money. Check with iFixit or OWC for instructions. HD's do take longer to start up and load, but once open, the processor and video work just the same as on the Retina model. The SSD speed is nice, but really not critical. So you have to wait a minute for your computer to boot up. The other big question is you need to find out if the non-retina model will take 16GB of ram. According to OWC's site, it will, 16GB for 150USD. Once you get programs open and resident in ram, everything will fly.

How to create an Internal Customer for Ineterplant stock Transfer

Daer Gurus,
Please tell me how to create an Internal Customer for Interplant stock transfer.
Actually I have three plants out of them two plants are providing goods to third plant. Also both the plants do the stock transfer in eachother.
How to maintain the Two plants as supplier and third one as a receiver plant.
which account group I should use and what details I have to use for it ? Do I need to maintain all three plants under same account group? I know the theoratical process only for stock transfer please guide me on this Internal customer issue.
thanks in advance
regards,
Sanjay

Hi,
Take your three plants as AAAA, BBBB and CCCC.... and these 3 plants may be assigned to the Sales Area of AAA 10 10, BBB 10 10 and CCC 10 10.
Your STO will have following 4 flows.
1. AAAA - CCCC
2. AAAA - BBBB
3. BBBB- CCCC
4. BBBB- AAAA
you need to do the following settings...
1. Assign the Sales Area for the Shipping Plants... for ex (AAAA - AAA 10 10 and BBBB - BBB 10 10)
2. You need to Create a Internal Customer for every Rec. Plant and need to assign the same to the Rec Plant. And Also note that this customer needs to be created in the Sales Area which is assigned in the Shipping Plant.
(Note that CCCC will be Rec Plant from Both AAAA and BBBB... So you need to extend that customer for both the Sales Area of the plants AAAA and BBBB)
Following is the example settings required for our scenario 1.
AAAA will be a supplying plant and CCCC will be rec. plant.... for this you need to create a internal Customer (for ex C1000) in Sales area AAA 10 10 (which is assigned to the plant AAAA) and assign the Customer number (C1000) to Plant CCCC.
Now you created a plant CCCC as a customer in Sales Area AAA 10 10 (which is nothing but plant AAAA)...
Also here you need assign the Sales Area AAA 10 10 to the Plant AAAA.
Hope this will be useful to you.
Thanks,
Muthu

Inspiron 1525 not able to select internal mic for webcam, nor is it showing up on Control Panel, Sound, Audio Devices

Initial problem was Dell Webcam video recording records no sound.
In Control Panel, Device Manager, Sound Video and Game Controllers there are two High Definition Audio Devices listed: Location 1 (Internal High Definition Audio Bus) - I deduce this is the internal mic; and Location 2 (Internal High Definition Audio Bus) - I deduce this is external microphone jack. Both have the same driver version.
The Control Panel, Sound, Recordings Tab showed 2 devices that looked identical except the bars that show green with volume were only on the first one, which is also the default one, and would detect sound if you got real close to the webcam mic when talking. Both devices displayed as 'working'.
Accessories, Sound Recorder recordings are silent no matter how close you get to internal webcam mic.
Dell WebCam Audio Source tab has two selections, both reading Microphone (3 - High Definition Audio Device). Both selections record sound with the EXTERNAL MIC jack. There is no way to select the internal webcam mic, it is not an option.
Per instructions found on the web, I uninstalled the first device only in Device Manager and rebooted. The same driver version as before was installed. But now the settings have changed. Device Mgr still shows Loc 1 and Loc 2. However, under the Sound, Recordings tab there are still 2 devices, but the first one says 'currently unavailable' , is still the default, and the sound bars that go green for audio testing are on the SECOND device now instead of the first one. If you check the Properties for each device, they BOTH are showing the same location Location 2 (Internal High Definition Audio Bus), i.e., the external mic jack. Loc 1 device (built in mic) is not showing up!!
Accessories Sound Recorder works with the EXTERNAL mic. (How does it know which one to use, it's not giving me a choice?)
So the Location 1 device (internal mic) is not showing up anywhere besides the device manager. I want to use the internal mic for skype and webcam. Somehow I need to get the Loc 1 device to show up on the Sound - Recording tab and in the Webcam Audio Source list? What do I do?
Thank you in advance for your help.

kestark
This is Vista.
Go to the Inspiron 1525 support page. Find the small blue "Change OS" and click on the arrow. Select Vista.Then download and install these 3 items with a restart between each one.
1. Dell System Software in the System Utilities category.
2. Intel Mobile Chipset in the Chipset category.
3. Sigmatel audio driver in the Audio category.
See if it works any better after you get the Sigmatel driver installed.

Internal parts for a MBP

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