Internet is hot and cold on macbook

I've been having a lot of trouble with my internet on my Macbook Pro just for the past week. Basically it just gets really slow, or just stops responding to the internet. I know that the network is totally connected (it says so on the Airport ting) and my roommates who also have Macs are not having any issue with it at all. I keep restarting the computer as well as the router, and it usually does the trick, but often only for a short while (sometimes as little as a couple minutes) before I have to do it again. What can I do to make my internet work normally again?
I'm not very computer savvy so any little bit of advice would help. Thanks.

I have this too! I blogged about this topic here( http://www.olij.co.uk/whitenoise/os-x-snow-leopard-wifi-issues/) - it seems to be a more' longer term' fix, but essentially it still crops up about once a week and I've yet to resolve it:
essentially:
Trash the airport config file in /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration. Copy the file to somewhere safe (desktop) and then delete it in the original location and restart the mac whilst clearing the nvram.
I've been leaving with this problem for 18 months now, and to be honest I'm really growing tired of it. sigh.

Similar Messages

Highlight Hot and Cold toggle turns entire Image RED!

Hi,
I'm curious if anyone has a solution to this issue. I'm using Aperture 2.1.3 on a Macbook Pro running OS Version 10.5.7. I shoot Nikon RAW files and a while back when I hit the ever helpful Option-shift-H (to toggle the Highlight Hot and Cold feature), I end up with the entire image turning red (Hot). Now the histogram is fine, I just can't fine tune the hot and cold areas with the feature. . . I've tried reloading Aperture 2 from the original disk (I did not delete the original copy firs in fear of loosing my images).
This feature worked fine until about 6 months ago- it probably stopped working during one of the updates. . . The "creative" at the apple store scratched his head and suggested I post here for a solution. . . Any help world be appreciated.

In Aperture try this:
Go to Preferences (cmd+,) -> Appearance
Then set
Hot Area Display Threshold to 100%
Cold Area Display Threshold to 0%
You might have set hot to 0% which would cause all parts of the image to appear red.
Just play a bit with those sliders to get what you want.

Toggle on "Highlight Hot and Cold Areas"

Aloha all.
When ever I toggle on "Highlight Hot and Cold Areas" my image turns solid red. I know I must have a setting turned on or set too high but I can't figure it out? Anyone else with this problem? Solutions?
Using Aperture 2.1

In Preferences->Appearance, see what the hot area display threshold is set to. It should be 97 or higher.

Hot and cold backups

i am learning to take hot and cold backups and i am having doubts regarding restoring and recovering/
1. When restoring the cold backup .. i am copying the control and datafiles from the backup and then starting the database with reset logs is this enough?
2. When i am recovering a tablespace in hot backup .. i have replaced the file from backup. I need to do something with the archive log files. Where do i place them in the database? If i have done some transactions after taking the hotback.. will i loose those transactions?

"1. When restoring the cold backup .. i am copying the control and datafiles from the backup and then starting the database with reset logs is this enough?"
Yes, you are right.... also include password file in your backup file list...
2. When i am recovering a tablespace in hot backup .. i have replaced the file from backup. I need to do something with the archive log files. Where do i place them in the database? If i have done some transactions after taking the hotback.. will i loose those transactions?
You can place the old datafile at new location also. For hot backup, your DB must
be running in archive log mode, so you will not loose any transaction.....

Highlight hot and cold areas

When "Highlight hot and cold areas" is turned on I often get some blue outlines in a photo, but when I press "Z" (zoom) they disappear. What is going on?

Could be a number of reasons for this but nothing to worry about. You could try looking at the hot/cold threshold levels but you need to remember smaller images can't hold the same amount of data as large ones. Edge sharpening for example, on the large scale may contrast 10,000 pixels along a 1 inch line to the full size image. Now think what has to happen when the image is shown as a 7x5. Think of it in terms of Bit Depth. With 1 bit there is no grey area and choices have to be made about what to show. In this case it is not a perfect copy of the full size image. Allan

Hot and Cold area viewing confusing me...

Hi Everyone,
I've been using Aperture 2 since it came and I'm liking the workflow and integration with the rest of OSX. Today I stumbled upon something confusing. I was playing with the display hot and cold areas option and was finding that when I measured the hot areas with the loupe, that the color values weren't actually blown out...
For example, I had a picture of a rose that when zoomed in, I could see the detail in the petals but was still being flagged as blown out. When I did a loupe rgb read on a 1x1 pixel point, I found that the red value was around 211...I thought that hot areas are 255?
Maybe I'm confusing what "hot" means. I've even seen cases where the master image is flagged as having more hot areas even though it is less saturated and exposure level is lower.
Can something be wrong with the hot/cold area function? Can anyone give it a try and see what kind of values they are seeing with the hot and cold area viewer?
Thanks.

Hi stjuste
re Maybe I'm confusing what "hot" means. I've even seen cases where the master image is flagged as having more hot areas even though it is less saturated and exposure level is lower.
Thought I would check. Used a pic of a dancer at night with firebrands. Pic looks good as I shot it.
Measured the "Hot Spot' at 255, and some others at a lower value. The manual says:
Images may occasionally have overly bright areas where color information about the
area is beyond the standard limits of the Aperture working color space. For example,
white areas in an image brightly lit with direct sunlight, or bright flashes off a water
surface, may be so bright that their color is outside the working color space. In addition,
images may occasionally have black areas where color information about the area is
below the standard limits of the working color space. Aperture can display these “hot”
and “cold” areas of an image with tints on the image to help you identify hot and cold
areas. You may be able to adjust these areas and recover highlight and shadow detail
identified by the hot and cold area overlays by changing the exposure, the recovery, the
black point, or the gamma setting of the image.
This maybe of help.. maybe not. Probably like you I set up the pics how I want them not what any program tells me.
Interesting though. I will do a bit more checking.
Cheers
Tomix.

Hot and Cold + USB?

I know this subject has seen a lot of mileage, but I would like to offer my views on the CPU temperature problem / Cold boot
I have just purchased a KT600 Delta FISR Mobo, having had a very good experience with my KT4 Ultra.
To say it runs hot is an over-statement, my set-up is
AMD Athlon 2400
512mb 2700 DDR [266]
2 x 80gb HDD [ Maxtor & IBM ]
Now I must start by saying, that I like small cases as I have a nice desk and it has to sit inside a cupboad. So I like cases where the power supply sits to the side of the CPU and not above. Also the depth of the cabinet is much less with the CDRom almost touching the Mobo. On the KT600 with the power connecter where it is I cannot use that bay!!.
Also I like HDD caddies so all my PC's have always had HDD caddies and these have there own fans
The cases have two front fans [ Un-obstructed - no floppy ] drawing air in and the PSU draws air out of the back.
In addition to that I have fitted to the KT6 Delta a Exhaust Fan that also draws air out. So I think I have a good air flow.
Now before you say, what do you expect, well I have two of these cases the other one houses my KT4 Ultra and it is exactly the same config except that the power socket is at the back behind the connectivity outlets.
This PC runs at 21c in idle [ 2100 Palimino Athlon ] and 30c when working hard.
[ Qtec 450w PSU ]
So I have been experimenting and with the case open and the power supply lifeted out the temperature is 54c idle. Case closed and power supply in situ it rises to 64c idle.
Now I did have a Q-Tec 550w PSU and I have read your comments so I changed it for a 400watt with actual power ratings [ not peak ] and it made vey little difference. I measured the voltages straight out of the power supplies I have tried and the 12v and 5volt vary very little from PSU to PSU and very little on load
Also measuring the on board regulators I can not detect any variance in voltage that is in sympathy with the changes shown by MSI Core Centre
So looking at the MSI Core Centre,
VCore = 1.65
3.3 = 3.45
+5v = 5.03
+12v = 11.70 to 11.82
If I install CPUIdle the MSI Core Centre now reads
VCore = 1.65
3.3 = 3.45
+5v = 5.00
+12v = 11.94 [ Rock Steady]
CPU Temperature 49/50c idle [ whether the case is open or not ]
So what is CPUIdle doing? My guess it is making up for fluctuations in the voltage regulation [ It would seem that a more acurate 12volts gives to a lower CPU temperature ]
It is certainly making the Mobo stable, which suggest un-aided it is not as stable as it could be.
Something else I have noticed the CPU heatsink does not feel unduly hot.
USB
Something else I noticed, I have a external USB 2.0 HDD enclosure, housing a 40gb 3.5 Maxtor HDD.
When pluggged in the temperature will rise by 10 degrees
[ I use to leave it on all the time on my KT4 Ultra ]
[ But in fairness it also raises the temperature on the KT4 ]
The load must be having an affect on the power in some way
The enclosure has its own power supply but uses the 5v available via USB
All this leaves me wondering how to proceed. I am not an overclocker or a gamer I simply use my PC as a work tool. The most I ever do is to log in to my works router to administrate the network from home.
Cold Boot
Yes my Mobo also hangs on starting Windows when cold.
All in all I am not a happy bunny, and would like to know what MSI views are on this.
Finally Although PC Alert will install on my PC [ Windows XP Pro ] XP Cooler will not work. It keeps throwing up a HM_Driver load error. Any ideas?
Kind Regards to you all

Hi Guys
Thanks for your thoughts,
First osnavi
My mistake the memory is 333mhz CAS 2.5 All Ok here Sorry if I mislead you.
Fredrik Åsenius & osnavi
Yes I agree I do not have the ideal situation here, but I have had many PC's right from the IBM Blue Lightning and Dell 25mhz and my ex PC KT4 ran just fine in the same situation and same case [ and still does and it does not have an exhaust fan other than the fan in the PSU]
Incidently when the PC is in use the door of the desk/cupboard is open, but not ideal I agree. I draw cold air in the front and exhaust it out the back
The problem of temperature rise is the same whether the PC is in situ or sat outside on floor.
However the point is this, why does CPUidle regulate the 12 volt rail and as such, bring the temperature down?
Why does USB hardware cause the 12 volt rail to fall and as such the temperature rise
My guess is poor voltage regulation on the Mobo.
No amount of cooling hardware will cure this.
In short I think the regulatiion on the Mobo is poor, which is a shame as the Mobo has a lot going for it at the price.
Matkel
I would be interested to know what your temperature was before and after, and what BIOS version you updated from?
I have updated from 5.4 to 5.5 but I did not notice any improvement.
ALL
Surely the point here is, if there were no concerns on temperature then people like ourselves would not be talking and writing about it.
As I see it there is a temperature control problem and the focus should be on cause. As I said at the beginning, my observations led me to beleive that the temperature is directly linked to the 12volts supply.
What I would like to know is what 12 volt supply is Core Centre / PC Alert monitoring.
I think that those of you who have opted for a Top Quality PSU have cured the symptons because the PSU has better power regulation, but not the cause.
It is arguable that a PC should have a good quality power supply, but their are a lot os PC's out there that have a bulk standard 350w / 400w PSU of no particular brand and they don't have a temperature problem.
Kind regards
Paul

Sony SR-82 Hot and Cold

Yes, I know there are at least two previous threads with conflicting reports of IM8 compatibility but I just ran across something curious. My parents SR82 is easily recognized by my Macbook running IM8 with the ability to import but their iMac will not. Exact same camera. We both have intel dual core and are running the exact same version of iLife. The only difference I can find is that my quicktime version is 7.2 and theirs 7.3. There is also a difference in behavior. When the camera is powered on and placed in USB mode, IM8 opens on my computer but iPhoto opens in theirs. What am I missing here?

Thanks for all the help Tom. I reconverted the mpeg's to Quicktime DV and they now show up without rendering.
As a side note, I finally purchased a memory stick for the HDR CX-7 and it imported into Final Cut like a dream...and....as Apple promised, I put the High Def footage into the timeline along with the converted mpegs and it all works together without a hitch. It would be nice if Apple could figure out a codec for those folks with mpeg2 cameras. It is a lot of workaround to get it where it needs to be. Apple got me for the Quicktime mpeg add-on...glad the Streamclip folks aren't so greedy!

How can I balance (or eliminate) hot and cold spots in a photograph taken under mixed lighting?

I have recently purchased some high resolution color photographs of black and white drawings. It appears that they may have been taken near a window because the left side of the images are noticeably cooler than the right side. Can I change the temperature in selected areas of an image? If so how can I do this?

This is with just a masked Solid Color Layer set to Blend Mode Color, but you could also try Curves (which would allow to better control the color-change in relation to luminance), Photo Filter, etc.:

OMG !! MY MacBook Air i7 run hot and very high fan sound?

my MacBook Air i7 run hot and very high fan sound?
am really very sad i buy it from usa store !! and am now in ukraine ! we dont have support or tech !
please help me
i7
4Gb ddr3
256 Gb !
when i open like game age of empire 3 !! my prosser be very very hot !! like 90% my fan be like 6599 !!!!!! and very high sound !
my os is lion and the last one !! and updates !!

no ! not just with game when i open like safari ! with skype ! and email !! i have sound fan ? and prosser very very hot !! over numver 123 !!
and i put it in very good plece !! and put it on the cold wooden table
anyone have mac air i7 2011

Macbook Pro is getting extremely hot and fan seems to be making a lot of noise when running windows 7

I recentely installed windows 7 on my Macbook Pro 15' late 2008 maybe 10-15 minutes into browsing the internet or watching a youtube video it gets really hot and the computer fans seem to be making a lot of noise. Is there any way to resolve this issue?

Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)

Late Macbook Pro getting hot and the fan is getting louder

My Macbook is getting very hot and the fan gets louder the longer I have my Macbook on.
It happens whenever and wherever I use it, I don't play games often as I use my Macbook for my Uni work.
Does anyone have any advice?

It would help if you indicated the EXACT model MBP that you have.
Perform a SMC reset:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
If no success, open Activity Monitor to ALL PROCESSES and set %CPU to display values from high to low.
Download from the Internet a temperature monitoring app like Bresink:
http://www.bresink.com/osx/TemperatureMonitor.html
Post images of both for inspection.
Open the MBP and look for dust an debris inside it, especially in the fans. Clean it out if necessary.
Ciao.

Iam not able to share internet in windows 8 from my macbook air...though my iphone ipad is connected to the hotspot well..tried everything but it seems to be different from windows 7 and other microsft operating systems setting. help!!

Iam not able to share internet in windows 8 from my macbook air...though my iphone ipad is connected to the hotspot well..tried everything but it seems to be different from windows 7 and other microsft operating systems setting. help!!

Ask on a Windows forum since that's what you're having a problem with.

HT4410 I have just installed Windows 7 64-bit full version Home Premium using Bootcamp and cannot get access to the internet. I installed on a Macbook Air Mid 2012 with Mountain Lion. Are there some drivers that are missing from the Windows 7

Dear Apple. I have just installed Windows 7 64-bit full version Home Premium using Bootcamp and cannot get access to the internet. I installed on a Macbook Air Mid 2012 with Mountain Lion. Are there some drivers that are missing from the Windows 7 bootcamp install download from Apple

It is a Total Misconception that the Support files are installed when you are installing Windows, even if the USB drive that holds them is inserted in the system when doing the Windows install.
You must always Run the Setup.exe files from the support files or run the drivers individually once Windows has finished installing and booted to the desktop.
Also you really need to run the Boot Camp Control Panel Applet and check for updates as not all the newest drivers for full function of all the hardware is included with the original support download. That download is basically a generic version to get the system working and without doing the updates not everything will work properly.

My macbook pro was on sleep mode, and when i opened it again, it wouldn't come off the black screen. It is very hot and also doesn't respond to the power button...

My macbook pro was "asleep". I opened it later, and the screen wouldn't change from black.. The bottom of the laptop is very hot and making a hissing/whirring sound. I tried hitting the power button to turn it off, but the conditions just stayed the same. It doesn't respond to the power button, and the screen just stays black. How do i fix this?!

I will go to the Apple store. I just thought I would throw it out there to see if anyone had a solution. They repaired this macbook before twice. The last time they replaced several things to fix the screen. I just threw out the question to see if someone could save me the trip to the store.
I was curious if the new programs (like lego games) can cause the computer to run to a point to blank the screen.
And curious if there are other things I can try to get the screen up and running.

Internet is hot and cold on macbook

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