IOS 7 /8 reduce white points FURTHER! Reading Mode Lower Contrast!

iOS 7 /8 reduce white points FURTHER! Reading Mode Lower Contrast!
I want a new feature to iOS 7 /8 reducing white points FURTHER!
It's very to to have so called Reading Mode with Lower Contrast!
iOS 7 /8 reducing white points Is very good. I hope we have further option to reduce the contrast.
For now I use the pop up quick control panel to reduce the contrast of the rest of the screen.
All above works with any kind of apps, so we don't need particular app to do that and have unified contrast, safari for instance.

Bob? Thanks! Do you know any possible way of do so? Or could there be any sector of this forum for submitting wish list?

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How to enlarge text in reader mode in safari on iOS 7?

Hi all,
Just wondering if anybody could tell me how to enlarge the text when in reader mode on Safari in iOS 7? Before in iOS 6 this was very easy; you just needed to press an icon that had bigger text display while in reader mode itself. But now it seems with iOS 7 you cannot do this. Please somebody tell me that there is a way to do this?
Thanks in advance!

SapienSeven wrote:
I am confusd by the question. Safari Reader is still there. Apple moved the button to the left side of the address/search bar and also changed it's appearance.
It's just a series of 4 lines stylized to represent text. Once selected, the colors invert. I do not see any way to increase the text size further though, ...and peerhaps that is your question.
In iOS 6, while in reader mode you could enlarge or reduce the size of the text just by pressing some icons whilst in reader mode. You can no longer do this in iOS 7 as the feature has been removed. But thanks for your response.

Colour Calibration / White Point setting - Is Imac Display really professional quality

I am trying to calibrate my imac 27" using i1 Display2 calibration software. I am trying to set a traget of 6500 using the software but it advises the current is only 5600 and suggests moving the RGB sliders to get this current white point up to my 6500 target. Unfortunatly i have no idea where i find these sliders on my imac. Can anyone advise how i change my current white point to get to the 6500 target?
Also, on the brightness issue, does shades work to reduce my brightness or will it simply interfere with my colour calibration?
Finally, i was going to use my iMac for professional photography. (Mainly on line but some print work required). Honestly, is the iMac display up to the job or should i consider changing
Thanks
Gary

Corbybhy, the glossy screen is the biggest and silliest myth out there. Really.
I have been a professional art director & designer for over 26 years, and by the way, for many years my high end professional CRTS were made of glass (and glossy). Another myth is that the screens cannot be calibrated, and are too bright. Hogwash. I use Spyder3Pro and have had few problems, guessing your device will be the same. Actually, the monitors seem to stay consistant for a heck of a lot longer than the old high end CRTs did. In the old days, most professionals calibrated to 5000k, but these days 6500k is the standard.
The amount of MISINFORMATION that is being spewed always amazes me. If you can keep your lighting consistant and somewhat dim, your life will be easier. Reflections are simply not a major issue, and are also overblown as a issue (by the way, my iMac sits next to a window, I just use shades to dim the ambient light).
I work mostly in print, and produce mostly publications, advertising & marketing materials. I have ZERO issues with my screen matching my proofs. ZERO. I do a huge amount of imaging, retouching & post-processing... all from my 27" iMac.

Setting White Points in Camera Raw

When setting white points in Adobe Camera Raw, while holding down Alt (on a PC), are the red marks what I should look for? Because white marks also appear? Which ones are relevant for the white point?

ACR doesn’t work that way. There is an eyedropper for the overall white-balance that you can set by clicking on a relatively bright, neutral area, but there aren’t black and white-point eyedroppers. But, what is clipped black or white is determined by the output colorspace you have set at the bottom and you can get some idea of what will be clipped black and white by turning on the clipping indicators and watching for the areas you’d be eye-droppering on (the black and white patches in your grayscale) to start showing the clipping color overlay for black and white, but any further toning adjustments will move data in and out of what is darker than black and lighter than white so what is clipped for output will change as you fiddle with the various toning sliders.
The reason things are different: In PS, when you set a black-point and white-point in Levels and click Ok, the data below and above those is thrown away and that is the starting point for the next adjustment. In ACR, things are non-destructive and all the adjustments occur simultaneously, rather than sequentially as in PS, and no clipping occurs until you create the output file. This means that the pixels that are darker than your black-point and lighter than your white-point are still there, and can be moved into the black-to-white range if you do further toning adjustments. Having more headroom of the pixels that are outside the black-to-white range is good because you won’t get the posterization or banding that occurs when colors and levels are clipped after each adjustment in PS.
Can you describe what you intend your overall workflow to be on an image: how much adjusting will occur in ACR and how much, if any, might happen in PS, after the image is opened into PS from ACR, or opened from a file saved from ACR? There might be other ways to approach what you’re trying to accomplish.

Setting a White Point and Black Point

I would like to suggest for future versions of lIghtroom to have an ability to set the white point and black points similar to levels and curves in Photoshop. This would be in addition to setting middle grey in the white balance settings currently in Lightroom. I find that the method of using Threshold to find the closest white and black pixels and then using these points to set the black and white points in curves or levels provides a better way to fix a color cast than the methods available in Lightroom.

MB,
There is no real need for Black and White point eyedropper type tools in Lightroom. By holding down the Alt key while changing the Blacks or Exposure sliders the display will show the areas that are being clipped. This is much faster than looking around for the darkest and lightest areas manually. If you just like to click to taste (like using the White balance dropper) then forget the Alt key and just move the sliders until you get the desired look.
Remember that the problem with Photoshop is that there are so many ways to do the same thing that it has become difficult and bloated. Lightroom strives to keep the interface as clear as possible.

Establishing White Point and Black Point

Hi,
How do I Establishing a White Point and a Black Point in Lightroom 1.4.1 and especially in Lightroom 2 Bata?
Thank You,
Hersul

The last post by OP might have closed this thread, but given the relative lack of activity on this and LR2 forums (summertime?) - I'll go a little deeper.
i White point
- If your white balance is right from the start, you just use the Exposure slider to set the white point. If not, first set the white balance - that effectively sets a preliminary white point for each channel separately, or, to be more precise, matches the right side of the histogram for each channel - then set the Exposure. So, with the white point you have complete control over the histogram, as well as over each channel.
i Black point
- here the situation is different. You can move the left side of the main (composite?) histogram using the Blacks slider, but there's no means for moving channels separately. In theory, with digital capture, there probably should not be need for this, blacks should be always black, so that's OK, but...
I once had a batch of pics scanned from film. The film was poorly developed so it has some strong brown-magenta cast in the shadows. In Photoshop it was a piece of cake to set the black point by dragging the left ends of each channel to the left edge of the histogram (heck, even Auto Level did a wonderful job). In Lightroom, there's just no way you can correct this, because you can't control the channels separately.

Setting black and white points

Dear friends,
I am shooting some pics with a "Whibal like" target card which has a white, black and 18% neutral grey shades.
In Camera Raw I I can easily correct the white balance with the provided eyedropper on the top row by clicking on the grey target.
I cannot find any way to set the black and the white points though and have to resort doing that for EACH picture in Photoshop via a levels or a curves adjustment layers.
It would be great to be able to set those in Bridge/Camera Raw so that I can then copy those settings to other similar shots.
Any ideas ? Thank you
Marco

I am having the same problem, although its now Camera Raw 7 - where can you set the white, mid, and black points in Camera Raw with the eyedropper tool. It seems you have to create a new psd file in Photoshop to do this, which does not make much sense since it is a basic levels adjustment. I am batch editing a bunch of CR2 files, and I just need to select the black, mid and white points on a grayscale that I've shot in the images - is there a way to do this in Camera Raw 7? Thanks!!

Setting the white point and gamma

I've heard that when calibrating your display you should set the white point and gamma to native. What is the difference between setting the white point at 65k and the gamma at 2.2?
Thanks in advance for your time
Rick

The difference would depend on what the native points were to begin with.

Setting the Black or White point in LR Mobile

In desktop LR, you can hold down the Alt (Option) key while moving the Black or White Slider in the Develop module to set the Black Point or White Point. Is there an equivalent action in LR Mobile? What is it?

Slide the Black or White Slider in Lightroom mobile with two fingers instead of one.

Native white point for Mac on Dual 23" Displays

I just tried yet again to calibrate my Dual 23" displays and get rid of a yellow cast that showed up from calibration ****.
The monitors are pretty close in color and I am using the Eye One Match Display calibrator. This unit is a couple years old (When I check it tells me I am using the latest version- 3.62) but I believe it to be functioning OK.
The read out I get as a summery of the calibration process is : Target>N.W.P versus Current>2300K.
So in order to figure out if I am close , I am asking what should be the actual value in color temperature of "Native White Point" on this hardware (G5,x800xt, 23"Cinema Display)

You could get a 400 to 800 FireWire adapter
<http://www.sonnettech.com/product/fw_adapter.html>
and use the FireWire 800 port, or just leave it unplugged if you don't need the FireWire ports on both monitors.

CS4 Camera RAW White Point

Setting White Point in Camera RAW 5.7 CS4
I am trying to make pictures out of scanned old slides/negatives which often have colour casts.
Some pictures do not have a suitable white spot for setting the point.
I often find that the "As Shot" or any of the default settings do not look right.
Please what is the best way to set the white point for these ?

Photoshop, or even Elements, would have more options than Lightroom for fixing colors or a color-cast in images that have not been added by the scanner, but is already in the images, themselves, a color cast usually caused by different rates of deterioration of the various pigments in the photo paper or film.
Trying the different Options in the Photoshop Levels command can be helpful.
You can tweak the RGB channels differently in Photoshop Curves.
Elements has a Remove Color Cast command that works for simple cases and is similar to the Auto WB in LR or ACR.
Sometimes you need to duplicate one of the color channels and substitute it for one of the other color channels. For example if the red is entirely faded, then duplicate the blue channel and paste it into the red channel and see how things look, or perhaps use the green channel, instead, depending on the mix of colors in the original. There are techniques for adjusting skintones at the expense of other colors in the image.
There are tutorials for fixing underwater images that would be somewhat applicable to photos heavily faded by prolonged exposure to sunlight or indoor UV sources.
Tweaking the HSL sliders in LR or ACR can be helpful if the image is mostly fixed by prior adjustments.

Lighting: Daylight or Cool White CFL? 5000K or 6507K iMac White Point?

Hi. When using the iMac (late 2009) in a small room. I can't find any 5000K bulb just the regular CFLs. Is it more ergonomic to use the daylight or the cool white CFL (bluish white vs. brownish or yellowish white) overhead light (room's volume is 29sqcube and the windows are blocked out, room's walls are dirty white and slightly gray ceiling) and is it better to set calibrate the iMac's white point to 5000K or the native 6507K (again, slightly yellowish vs. slightly yellowish white)?
Which lighting temperature would produce more accurate accurate color reproduction (for watching movies and doing graphics; for sketching on paper using a lamp and reading online too) and at the same time provide good ergonomics while working? What wattage of CFL is just right for the size of the room? Any site recommends that focuses in depth on lighting for computer use? Thank you in advance.
Gbu.

Hi, these articles might well help in your search for adequate room lighting.
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/183324
......L

I really miss a true white point adjustment

I've been trying to minimize the cases where I need to escape from Lightroom to Photoshop, but the lack of a true white point adjustment is frustrating. About 10% of the time, after I've adjusted exposure and recovery to give me the best image it only reaches 85 to 95 percent of the maximum white value and I have to export the image to Photoshop to finish the job with Curves. Since psd files take up about five times the space of raw files, this is really annoying, not to mention a waste of time. Is there any way to duplicate the true linear range expansion that I can get with Photoshop,
or is there a chance of a true white point adjustment being added to Lightroom (and camera raw, I suppose).

I'm not trying to move it to the left, I want to move it into the forbidden zone to the right. I'm trying to get a uniform stretch of the whole histogram, with all tones from black to white affected by the adjustment. The Lightroom adjustments only allow me to adjust zones. The Photoshop curves adjustment lets me move a white slider to the left until the top white values just clip. The equivalent operation in Lightroom is to move the exposure slider to the right, but this compresses the white values and destroys some of the white details. The only way I have been able to get what I want is to expand the white values by moving the exposure slider to the left until the white details pop out, then use Photoshop to uniformly stretch everything back to true white.

IMac Retina White Point – default calibration looks almost yellowish?

With the suggested (d65) setting on white point, the screen looks almost yellowish to me. To get it looking anything like my Macbook Retina it seems like I have to change the white point to upwards 7000.
Anyone else..?

With the suggested (d65) setting on white point, the screen looks almost yellowish to me. To get it looking anything like my Macbook Retina it seems like I have to change the white point to upwards 7000.
Anyone else..?

White point / black point

Just like with Photoshop's Levels and Curves I would like to see a White point and Black point setting ability.

I'm aware of that, but I find that many times it's an easy way (in PS) to determine what I really want to be white (the white of an eye, for instance), at least as a starting point. Using the LR exposure slider to do so is less convenient and doesn't give me that instant and exact control.
Since I am very often using black as a background, it would be convenient to pinpoint that as black.
And now we're into it: why just not call the LR selector what it really is: a Neutral selector? Its shifts colors to neutral grey like in PS.
B.T.W.: I also often use a neutral grey background (18% reflection) and that's where the "White balance selector" is of a very great help.

IOS 7 /8 reduce white points FURTHER! Reading Mode Lower Contrast!

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