IPhoto 6 Colour Problems

Having just upgraded to iPhoto 6, my iPhoto library thumbnail colours have all become v. high chroma and lurid. All photos look fine in Preview and Quicktime players, but not in iPhoto, which makes them impossible to edit correctly, as the colours do not come good in edit mode. My last import was exactly the same, but on responding to a "Rebuild thumbnail caches?" most (but not all) of the new thumbnails became normal, and ALL pictures looked normal in edit mode. Success! Oh no. On importing the pictures to iDVD to make a slideshow, most (but not all) of the slides are wan, pale, low chroma and frankly useless. The ones that do look OK are the ones that still have a high chroma thumbnail in iPhoto library. The import was from a shop CD with Colour Sync Profile ON. I did a comparative import with it switched off, with no change. My question is:- How can I adjust iPhoto so that images look "normal", as they do in Preview and Quicktime, and resumably iDVD too, so that what I see, I get. I am convinced that it is an iPhoto 6 issue, as it was fine before upgrading. Good as it is for editing, at the moment it is totally useless, as there is no way you can second guess such a massive colour shift so that it comes out ok on DVD. Probably some simple setting in preferences, but nothing has worked so far. As far as I can ascertain, all my settings are correct. Can this effect be reversed without re-importing the whole library (I have backed it up in DVD).....Please help me!

The page for the 7.0.1 reinstaller is to remove 7.0.3 and then install 7.0.1 but should work with the current version. If it won't it should tell you so. Also there's a new QT update out today, 7.1.1. Here's what it says on the download page:
"QuickTime 7.1.1 addresses an issue with 3rd party start-up items on Intel Macs. This release also fixes an issue exporting to Keynote presentations to iDVD. Also delivers numerous bug fixes, support for iLife06, and H.264 performance improvements. This update is highly recommended for all QuickTime 7 users. "
That might help.

Similar Messages

Printing Colour Problems ...

I know this is a common cry for help, but I am having a dreadful time trying to understand colour profiles, despite spending a lot of time reading up on the subject. Here's my basic dilemma:
I have calibrated my display (Apple 23" Cinema). I am using an old Epson 830U for basic home proofs. I have set up my proofing profile in Aperture to match the printer and paper I'm using. When I print from Aperture I select my printer and paper in the colour sync profile, and in addition I ensure that the paper type is correctly specified in the printer's settings (and I also deselect colour managment in the printer settings).
Does this sound right ? I've noticed that even just a small mistake, e.g. forgetting to select the paper type correctly, can lead to extreme colour differences.
At the end of the day I'm not despertate for perfect colour in my home proofs, but I am trying to get them to look approximately right. It's not uncommon for me to end up with extreme colour problems. I can't print anything from iPhoto without it coming out too dark and with a blue tint. Luckily, printing from Aperture seems to produce better results (I just wish I knew why).
Surely it shouldn't be this hard to set up a basic Epson photo printer on the Mac.
If anyone knows of an idiot proof guide to home photo printing using high end applications on Mac OS X, feel free to point me in that direction.
Paul

I suspect it really is intricate as opposed to hard. But here's my "Dummies/Idiot's Guide ...." for you.
The difficulties start by reminding ourselves that color is perceptual. Our retina sends a signal to our brain, and our brain translates that to a color. But, who knows what color you perceive as blue compared with myself if we both stand side by side and look up at a blue sky. we've just been told since a baby that it's blue, but our brain does it's magic and we "see" what it tells us. This translation issue between retina and perceived image is behind much color-blindness ... a difficulty in perceiving a color difference.
Since we can't "standardize" our brains (well not anytime soon), what can we standardize that can reduce variance in our actual and perceived perception?
Perception is 9/10's of the Law:
Ever taken your laptop outside? When you can actually see the image due to the relative brightness of the outside to indoors, did you notice that colors seemed different? Your eye is adjusting to the ambient light, and your brain gets in on the act. Your brain decides that the brightest light source is essentially "white" and so tricks us. That's why we can take a photo inside under tungsten light, and what looked white to us as we took the shot comes out as yellow-orange. Quantum Physics time: Tungsten releases "light" (electromagnetic radiation) at this frequency when electrons that had been bumped up to higher energy states (by us supplying power from the on/off switch) fall back to a lower energy state and give off or 'emit" a packet of energy comprising the difference between those two states.
Halogen headlights look brighter, but also whiter than tungsten headlights. That's because the radiation they emit is somewhat bluer. Xenon headlights are even more blue biased.
The sun gives off light from a whole collection of different elements, but by and large it is yellow/red. However, there is lashings and lashings of it compared to a tungsten bulb, and our poor, overworked brain is left to cope figuring out brightness vs. whiteness. Our brains do OK, but they do it by tricking us rather than science.
Home is where the heart of the problem is:
So, OK, we've taken some photos, and pressed this button to "auto white balance" or selected a "white balance" that tells the camera that although white isn't really white, pretend that it is, since our brain is also pretending. Of course, if we forget to tell our camera this, we have to tell Aperture or PS CS2.
But, sat there in front of our screen, what are we really seeing? Well, we are not seeing just the displayed image, no oh no. That would be too simple! No, our brains are passionate about their environment. What's the lighting? Fluorescent (I hope not), halogen, tungsten? This matters as our eyes/brain will calibrate to more than just the on screen image. What wall colors exist? Blue, red, green, off-white? Those refceted colors are going to fool our brain into believing that the image on screen has a tint. This is why Aperture's window is all gray, and photo professionals strongly suggest image editing is performed in an all gray room, with as "white" a light source as possible (halogen vs. tungsten, tungsten vs. fluorescent). BTW. I dislike fluorescents as all the bulbs seem to have hideously different colors, and age badly across time. That plus the rather unattractive greenish tints they give skin tones puts me over the edge.
Oh, and no desklights with their nice pool of incident light or other effect lighting. Save that for the living room. This room is to reduce the trickery that your brain can throw at you. So, nice uniform, diffused lighting.
Watching you watching me:
But if we're now living in our nice gray world, ready to edit those wonderful images that we used the right white balance for when shooting, what next?
Calibrating your monitor means you standardize against those who wrote a color profile for the printer, the paper or who will be printing images for you. Your image should look the same on someone elses monitor as it does on yours. That's step 1.
However, displayed color is also perceptual. CRT's render color differently IMO to LCD's. Both are transmissive, but brightness differs and perhaps more importantly, what is color? Outside, our eye saw all the different wavelengths it was capable of sensing and passed the relative intensity values per wavelength to our brainiac computer. Not so in our digital scanner or camera. In computer technology, color is rendered as a triangular space represented by a dot at each apex ... one red, one blue and one green. Those point "phosphors" in CRT vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and to the standard required. Close but no cigar. The electronics and guns also do not track perfectly linearly from pure black (no signal) to pure white (max. output of a phosphor of equal intensity to the others). This is called gray-scale tracking and unless it is near perfect, you can see green or blue shifts in color at the black end or white end etc.
Uh oh, that white question again. Come to that, how do I know it's the same white that I set my camera to when I shot? Well, we don't really wiothout setting to some standard. It's not that each phosphor isn't emitting, it's the balance across them at our determined highest brightness (white) that needs to be set. D65 is often quoted in TV's, representing a color temperature of 6500Kelvin (deepest reds are low temperature emmissions and brightest blues are the highest temperatures).
Now LCD's don't have phosphors illuminated by a stream of electrons, and they came long after we had developed pretty decent CRT technologies. So being lazy humans, we lifted the ideas and terms No phosphors, but they do have red, green and blue LCD's (each a sub-pixel, and the three combined are a pixel)triggered by an electronic signal. so, why aren't they called LED panels? Well, LED's are not very bright, and we need a mechanism to make them brighter. Those quaint watches came to the rescue ... LCD's or Liquid Crystal Displays. You know, those ugly greeny/gray, low contrast watches. Yes, that's the one. Sandwich those colorful but dim LED's between an LCD, and use the LCD to switch on/off a powerful light ... rather light turbo charging a 4 cylinder motor to make it perform like a V8! The posh name was TFT-LCD (for Thin Film Transistor LCD). Now we have a bright, flat screen. Yahoo!
But backlighting of the panel is not always very uniform (look at colors around your screen for different flat colors at different intensities and you may see patchiness). Nor do LCD's behave exactly like phosphors from deepest black (impossible when you have to have a back light which is always on and which illuminates the whole panel of glass) to white. But why sweat this, when the LCD rarely conforms perfectly to the red, green, blue phosphor standards.
BTW, it is the backlight that kills laptop battery life, not the LCD's themselves. Turing your brightness down as low as possible helps .... but I digress.
So we buy calibration hardware and software, and calibrate our monitor to a ruler flat grayscale from pure black to pure white.
And it looks bad.
It is rather idiosyncratic of us that a perfectly linear gray scale can leave us perceiving a lack of contrast. So, we distort the "gamma" value to provide more punchiness. Apple vs. Windoze computers tended to have different gamma's out of the box. Apple uses a gamma of 1.8, a rather flater, more pastel effect that, if my knowledge is correct, translates/translated better to the characteristics of the professional CMYK (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black) four color printing processes used by offset litho printers. Windoze uses a gamma of 2.2, a punchier, gutsy, in-your-face effect. Marketing? I don't know. But it does appear a better match for RGB (our computer friendly Red, Green, Blue) inks used in inkjet printers.
So we calibrate our monitors, and then deliberately decalibrate them (if you will) to correspond to our output destinantion.
A quick digression here.
If our output is destined for print, what dos that mean to us? Well, part is covered above. But what about web, or tv viewing from DVD? Ahh hah! Gotcha!
We can control our calibration. We can even calibrate ourselves to external print shops, knowing that our image will appear 99% or more the same on their monitors as it does on ours. And they will have calibrated their monitors to their printers and paper (more on this below). But what about Joe Public?
Back to that color space.
A 10 year old color tv, used moderately over the years, performs no way like a new color tv. The phosphors "age." even the backlights in LCS panels age. Age is represented by diminished light output, and grayscale tracking. So, our 10 year old tv cannot represent the wide color space it could when it was brand new. Worse, even if we'd left our 10 year old tv in its box and just opened it, it would not be as capable as a brand new design. TV's are actually held down to 1950's standards rather than up for this very reasson, but the same is somewhat true of computer monitors. We don't know the age, quality or even the color calibration and room environment of our web browsers monitor. So, a much smaller "web safe" color space (sRGB ... standard - or small - RGB) was introduced. This restricted space should be renderable on most old monitors, though gross end consumer calibration issues will obviously remain uncontrollable.
Meanwhile, we want to keep as big a color space as possible ... difficult to put back in what's been taken out. (Set your camera to "Adobe RGB" please right now.) Working in the biggest color space allows us to target any lesser color space with relative ease. And some of these restricted color spaces belong to printers ... which of course, differ from printer to printer, (probably more associtated with inks to inks) and paper to paper ....
More on this next
White points

Hard Drive warning when upgrading to Mountain Lion. 2 try and I was able to upgrade. Software update for IPhoto, had problems restarting. Do I need my hard drive checked

Hard Drive warning when upgrading to Mountain Lion. 2nd try and I was able to upgrade. Software update for IPhoto, had problems restarting. Do I need my hard drive checked

Yes.
Choose Apple menu > Restart. Hold down the Command (⌘) and R keys as your computer restarts.
When you see a white screen with an Apple logo in the middle, you can release the keys.
Click Disk Utility, and then click Continue.
In the list at the left, select the item you want to repair. (Be sure to select an item that’s indented to the right in the list, not an item at the far left.)
Click First Aid.
If Disk Utility tells you the disk is about to fail, back it up and replace it. You can’t repair it.
Click Repair Disk.
If Disk Utility reports that the disk appears to be OK or has been repaired, you’re done.
Otherwise, you may need to do one of the following steps.
If Disk Utility can’t repair your disk or it reports “The underlying task reported failure,” try to repair the disk or partition again. If that doesn’t work, back up as much of your data as possible, reformat the disk, reinstall Mac OS X, and then restore your backed-up data.
If you continue to have problems with your disk, it may be physically damaged and need to be replaced

B&w colour problem

I have uploaded this website: www.ambientdesign.com.au
The problem is that in Internet Explorer, the colours are
b&w. Everything else looks OK.
Another issue (which isn't as much of a concern as the colour
problem) is that in Mozilla a few elements move position eg: the
text in the footer appears below the footer. Thanks for
help.

Are you working on this page right now?
I see the page as I suppose it should be in Firefox, but in
IE6 and 7, there
is no styling whatsoever... the images are in colour, but
it's not reading
the stylesheet at all.
I have no idea why, apart from the fact that it may have
something to do
with sitting as a sub domain of your hosting account at
ozemail or
something....
May I ask why you are using frames for the site - there
doesn't appear to be
a real reason to use frames for that layout?
I put the main page through the validator and there's a few
errors that may
need clearing up :
http://validator.w3.org/check?verbose=1&uri=http%3A%2F%2Fmembers.ozemail.com.au%2F~ambient design%2F
Nadia
Adobe® Community Expert : Dreamweaver
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"ambient2000" <[email protected]> wrote in
message
news:etb886$eef$[email protected]..
>I have uploaded this website: www.ambientdesign.com.au
>
> The problem is that in Internet Explorer, the colours
are b&w. Everything
> else
> looks OK.
>
> Another issue (which isn't as much of a concern as the
colour problem) is
> that
> in Mozilla a few elements move position eg: the text in
the footer appears
> below the footer. Thanks for help.
>

Anyone getting print colour problems after Mac 10.6.8 Update?

Since June 29, when we downloaded the latest Apple OS X update, prints on all four papers I use - and have custom profiles for - have developed a green cast out of our Epson R1900. Can't help thinking that this caused by the Epson Printer Software Update (# 2.7) that was part of that Apple update. There are reams of complaints over on the Photoshop Mac forum about this update causing printers to stop completely; but none citing colour problems.
Seems complicated - according to Apple - by the fact that the Epsom driver that Update 2.7 replaced, will not work with OS X 10.6.8. To back track one has to back track the complete OS to 6.7. Something to do with Snow Leopard being made ready for Lion.
Oh, and yes - I have recalibrated my screen since the update; and yes, have exhaustively run all the maintenance tasks on the R1900.

Seems we have sorted the problem, and I thought it might warrant us sharing that - particularly as it was less than obvious. We use four paper types and have pre-sets for each in the Print Module. Actually eight presets as the four are duplicated for two paper sizes. Each pre-set includes a custom-made ICC profile for the paper/printer (an Epson R1900).
Following the Apple Software Update to OS X 10.6.8, there appeared a noticeable blue/green cast over all newly made prints. Nothing in the Lr3 printing process appeared to change; and so the conclusion was that something had changed in the new Epson printer driver that accompanied the update. Some time and effort was expended with Apple investigating a backtrack to 10.6.7, which proved fruitless for too complicated a reason to go into here.
Left with seeking an alternative answer, we deleted the printer and reinstalled using the original disk; opting to take the offered driver update. This resulted in driver 6.20 being loaded - the same as had been causing all the grief. However, when we came to check the Print Settings dropdown - after specifying the appropriate preset - to make sure it specified 'no colour correction', it was obvious that the ICC profile had not been recognised, although the Page Settings for the preset had. Each box in the dropdown merely contained the default - plain paper, Colorsync, etc. Manually entering all the criteria in Print Settings - as should have been picked up from the preset - produced a perfect print. Perfect that is compared to one printed prior to download 10.6.8.
The odd thing about this - and the one that left us clueless - was that before deleting and re-installing the printer - the Print Settings dropdown reflected all of the criteria of the preset. Everything looked normal, except that is for the hair being pulled out by those wasting time, paper and ink after a solution.

In Iphoto 11 all 7000 of my photos show the same thumbnail. I rebuilt the thumbnail using ctr alt and opening iPhoto. This worked and rebuilt the thumbnails correctly. Then when I reopened iPhoto the problem came back? Help please?

In Iphoto 11 all 7000 of my photos show the same thumbnail. I rebuilt the thumbnail using ctr alt and opening iPhoto. This worked and rebuilt the thumbnails correctly. Then when I reopened iPhoto the problem came back? Help please?

Where is your Library stored?

Iphoto slow problem - photos are organised in folders not film rolls

I'm suffering from the iphoto slow problem and have been trying to find a way to stop iphoto from loading all the photos every time.
My photos are arranged in folders, so I don't seem to have the option to stop the photos being loaded by film roll.
Does anyone have any other ideas ?

I'm not sure what that means. Whether you have albums or not, iPhoto still considers a single import batch as a roll. If the rolls are not collapsed, then everytime you launch iPhoto, it assumes you want to be able to see your entire library, and it goes about the job of making all the thumbnails available.

Exporting iPhoto Slideshow Colour problems

When using the slideshow function in iPhoto 09 using the snapshot theme, it is causing issues with the colours on the Photos when exported.
On the exported slideshow, when a new photo appears on a snapshot it looks fine, then just before the next snapshot arrives on the screen the photo flickers, it is particularly bad if the colour red is present on the photo.
I may add that displaying the slideshow in iPhoto it is perfect with no flicker of colours, it's only when it is exported. Also it is being exported as the biggest size. I have tried many of the export function with iPhoto but to no avail, the flicker is there with all the export types.
Any help on this matter would be appreciated.
K

I have the same problem, only with the Snapshot theme, as far as I can tell. Basically it's like it jumps the gun a bit and desaturates the photo too early for the duration of one frame, then goes back to full color, then completes the dissolve to black and white. The single frame "flicker" is from that one desaturated frame. I got the same results whether exporting to Apple Prores or H.264 at 1280x720. Like already noted, it plays just fine in iPhoto itself and only presents the problem once a movie is exported. I actually didn't initially notice the problem because it flickered in time with the music for the first couple of photos and I thought it was a feature!

ICC profiles- iPhoto colour management issues.

I read in one of the Mac magazines the following regarding the release of iPhoto 5.0.3 ...."images are no longer colour-shifted after editing;....". Does anyone know if this refers to a resolution to the long running problem whereby iPhoto would overide the embedded ICC profile when saving back into iPhoto after editng in Photoshop. I do hope so as this was an unacceptable major flaw in a programme from Apple - a firm which prides itself at being at the forefront of colour management ! I can find no reference to this is in any release notes on the Apple support site - anyone with 'inside knowledge" ?

When I place the files into the document they become noticeably over saturated.
Select the image and check the ICC profile in the Links panel link info. Make sure its profile is the expected blurb CMYK profile. If it's Document CMYK check the document CMYK profile in Edit>Assign Profiles... and make sure it is the Blurb profile. The assigned profile can be different than the Color Setting's working space profile.

Itunes/ipod with colour problem

recently, ive been having problems with my ipod. i accidently dropped it onto concrete a couple of months back, and since then, it keeps coming up with the sad ipod icon. fortunately, tho im sure it doesnt do it any good, a swift smack to the back of it, and a restart usually gets it to work.
a couple of days a go, i had a pop-up on itunes saying that my ipod was corrupt, and needed to be restored. i clicked cancel the first time, but it came up again when i restarted itunes. i done this, and everything was fine. no sad ipod icon. however, now itunes wont open when my ipod is connected, but when it isnt, it'll load fine. i've tried it on my other pc without the internet, but that says about the ipod software not being installed properly.
i also cant access it via my computer on either computer, they both freeze, and stop responding.
i didnt buy my ipod from apple, so im pretty sure i cant just send it to them to get it fixed/whatever they can do. is there anything i can do, or would it be easier just to get a newer ipod?
ipod with colour Windows XP Pro

if still does not solve try this
. Windows users having trouble with their iPods should locate a Mac user. In many cases when an iPod won't show up on a PC that it will show up on the Mac. Then it can be restored. When the PC user returns to his computer the iPod will be recognized by the PC, reformatted for the PC, and usable again. By the way, it works in reverse too. A Mac user often can get his iPod back by connecting it to a PC and restoring it.
Tips
a. It does not matter whether the format is completed or not, the key is to erase (or partly) the corrupted firmware files on the Hard Drive of the iPod. After that, when the iPod re-connected with a computer, it will be recognized as an fresh external hard drive, it will show up on the iTunes 7.
b. It is not a difficult issue for a Mac user to find a window base computer, for a PC user, if they can’t find any Mac user, they can go to a nearest Apple Shop for a favor.
c. You may need to switch around the PC and Mac, try to do several attempts between “Format” and “Restore”
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2364921&#2364921

Att: Apple Customer Service representatives - iPhoto order problem

Hi,
I've had the following problem using the iPhoto book ordering system:
Last week, I decided to make a photo book in iPhoto and buy several copies of it to use as christmas gifts. I bought the most recent version of iPhoto from the App Store even though I had an earlier version installed, just to ensure reliability and the most up-to-date features. After this, I made my book and on wednesday evening, tried to order it several times, with iPhoto telling me my order couldn't be completed.
On thursday morning, I tried once again ordering the book, and this time, iPhoto tried to upload my book. In the end, iPhoto gave me a message worded something like "Your order could not be completed. Try again at another time". So I waited a bit and tried again, and I got the same error message.
Later in the morning, however, I was sent 2 order confirmations from the Apple Store, both for 5 books. I only need 5 in total, so I tried cancelling the last order, but the order website said that I could not cancel the order as it was being processed - this was only some 15 minutes after me receiving the order confirmation. I tried phoning Apple in Denmark, and their phone pointed me to the iPhoto website, which had no relevant information whatsoever. I tried finding information on the web and responding to the order email. No help here either, the email was bounced, and I could not find anybody else who had experienced this problem. I decided I would cancel the payment for the last order with my bank and return the 5 extra books.
In the days since thursday, the payment didn't show up in my bank statement, and thus, I was beginning to think that maybe my order confirmation email was an error on Apples part, and my order wasn't completed after all. However, the delivery man came to our house today, and my girlfriend signed for both packages (she didn't know why there was two packages). I will be keeping five of them, and you can have the last five books back - I will be cancelling the payment for those when it shows up in my bank statement. After all, I would have never ordered them if your system had worked and given me the correct message after the first order had gone through.
Please contact me by email in order to arrange the pickup of the surplus books.
Kind regards,
Christian

You could try contacting Apple through Express Lane. Click on Mac & Software > iLife > iPhoto. Good luck

Update to 10.6.8 colour problems with external display

I have a mid-2010 13" macbook pro. I use a mini DVI to HDMI adaptor to connect to my Philips LCD TV. It has always worked perfectly including audio. Since update to 10.6.8 (yesterday) there is a colour-cast on the external display that makes it unusable. I have tried a hard reset of the mac with no effect except that the colour cast changed from green to red (strange!).
Anyone had a similar problem or have any ideas how I could solve it? (no time machine so I can't downgrade unfortunately)

Though I am using and iMac 27 and not a macbook, I have the similar issues since the 10.6.8 update.
I too am using the adapter to connect to a Philips 42' LCD.
You can see my post here: (has a pic of what my TV image now looks like since update.)
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15488605#15488605
I ended up going back to 10.6.7, not a fix, but no other alternative..
I used to have this problem a year ago on a PC that happened to have the same ATi Graphics card. I just used the ATI control center and changed a setting to YBR component or something like that in some color settings. But unfortunately we don't have the ATI control panel for mac, least I don't think we have any kind of alternative, but would prolly fix it..

Iphoto 6 problems

Hi All,
I'm having an issue with iphoto (6) and I have tried all possible solutions (I think) but I cannot fix the problem. After not using iphoto for about a month, I tried to upload some pictures from my digital camera and I received the following message. "An error occurred while trying to save your photo library, some recent changes may be lost. Make sure your hard disk has enough space and that iPhoto is able to access the iPhoto Library folder". I have attempted to move the location of the iPhoto folder, but have been unsuccessful. I have also tried reinstalling iphoto with my Master disks, but this has not helped either. Last but not least, the pictures are now locked and I cannot delete them to try anew.. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

CDCNuit
Welcome to the Apple Discussions.
1. How much free space on that HD?
2. Assuming there is enough: try Download BatchMod from
http://macchampion.com/arbysoft/
And apply it to the iPhoto Library Folder using the settings found here:
http://homepage.mac.com/toad.hall/.Pictures/Forum/BatChmod.png
(Credit to Old Toad for this one).
Regards
TD

Colour problems when opening PEF files in ACR

I have the problem that when I open a (Pentax) raw image in ACR the colours (particularly blue it seems to me) go awry.
If I open the image in Pentax Photo Browser the image is displayed correctly.
If I convert the image to jpg in Pentax Photo Lab the image is displayed correctly.
If I open this jpg in Photoshop Elements 8 the image is displayed correctly.
It's only when I open the raw files directly in Photoshop that the colours are wrong.
Opening the raw file in Elements opens the 'Camera raw' window, which has various adjustment tabs with sliders. What ever adjustments I make in this window, I cannot seem to replicate/keep the correct colours.
I have tried resetting and then using the Camera Raw Defaults.
I've also tried some other adjustments, i.e. setting the white balance to 'Daylight' (as this is how the camera is usually set) and the camera calibration to 'Camera Standard' - I can get the blue somewhat close, but then the yellow is out.
So, at the moment, I have to process the raw files in Pentax Photo lab, then open and edit them in Photoshop.
It would be nice to be able to bring single PEF files into PS without having to convert them first.
What on earth am I doing wrong? Or is this a genuine limitation with ACR?
Any help/guidance would be appreciated!
Regards,
Dingo.

Jim Hess,
That's helpful advice, thank you. Sadly, I've been unable so far to make adjustments in ACR that are anywhere near (IMHO) the images as displayed in Pentax Photo Lab. Even the (truly awful) MS Office picture manager provides more consistent colour.
I'm still convinced that I'm doing something wrong. I know that Elements is much cheaper than full Photshop (something that I simply can't afford to buy) but to be so wildly out is unbelieveable.
For example, I took a photo of a jet passing overhead, with (out of focus) leaves on a tree, then went in and loaded this onto my computer. IMHO the Pentax Photo Browser showed the scene pretty much as was. After converting to jpg in Photo Lab, I loaded into PSE 8 and Office picture manager - both display consistently with the raw image displayed in Photo Browser.
However, when I loaded the same raw file into ACR the blue sky has a greenish tinge that I can nearly adjust out, but either way, the green leaves look muddy and the colour is weak. If I get the leaves good, then the blue is very over saturated. When I compromise both the blue and the green, the aluminium fuselage on the jet has a red/purple tinge.
Some more information: Monitor is calibrated (I borrowed a colleages Huey). Camera and PSE are both set to Adobe RGB. I print to a Epson R1400, with colour management handled by PSE, and the colour matches the screen very well.
Any further advice much appreciated.
Regards,
Dingo.

Using Sony Bravia 32" TV as a monter with my mac book colour problem

Hello,
I have connected my mac book pro 13 to the tv with a genuine apple hdmi cable adaptor and a hdmi cable.
I have mirrored the display in settings and can see the display on my mac on the tv.
The problem is the colour is awful. The colour is overly blue/purple. The greys come out almost a pink.
I also dont seem to have any sound coming out of the tv, and i think this setup should allow it. Do i need to activate the sound like you have to activate the mirror displays?
The tv colour when using sky or watching a dvd are good. The colours on my mac are good. What am i doing wrong?
Thanks Dave

Ronda Wilson wrote:
No. It's video only, as far as I know.
HDMI is audio/video and will work reliably as such between consumer devices (like tv's, dvd players, av receivers) it may also provide audio from a computer to a tv, but it depends on the tv. If the tv has multiple hdmi inputs then try them all, also the adaptor can affect the audio transmission.
All the foregoing assumes that you are going from hdmi to hdmi, if you have a dvi, minidvi or mini displayport it almost certainly won't work, even with an adaptor
Find an audio input on your tv that is active on the hdmi input (if there is one) and connect that to your mac as well as the hdmi, the awful picture may not be fixable.
Toshibas work from MacMini using HDMI

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