Is insufficient power supply the cause of freezing my G4?
About over a year ago, I upgraded my G4 Sawtooth Graphic 350MHz with an OWC CPU upgrade 1.4 GHz. I have run this computer with Mac OS 9.2.2 and Mac OS 10.1.5 without problems. However, After I upgraded Mac OSX to 10.2, 10.3, and 10.4, my G4 has had freeze without a pattern, such as the duration after booting up or the type of applications it is running.
The crashes are annoying especially in the middle of working on an important project, although I have enjoyed the speed of the upgraded CPU very much. My G4 has an Acard IDE controller (6280M), a USB PCI card, a USB/Firewirecombo PCI card, two HDDs (both Maxtor at 80GB and 160GB), an OEM 6X DVD-ROM, 1.5 GB (3X 512 MB SDRAM PC100-3225).
As said, it does not crash with Mac OS 9.2.2. or Mac OS 10.1.5 but with Mac OS 10.2. and up. Does it have anything with its possible insufficient power supply?
Thank you very much in advance for your ideas.
Robert
Dave and Tom:
Out of frustration by the frequent, random freezes, I decided to place the original G4 350 MHz processor back to my G4 AGP. After removing three screws from the upgrade processor, I thought that perhaps i should try to slow down the speed of the processor and see what it will do. While the processor in place, I moved a couple of jumpers and set it at 1.3 GHz from 1.4 GHz and closed the door.
Guess what. I purposely ran the computer for hours, I have not had freeze yet. At this time, I am still keeping the 128 MB RAM stick in the fourth slot. The total RAM memory is registered at 1.6 GB.
If this change really solves the problem, I want to try to put it back to 1.4 GHz and see if the computer will freeze again. I also suspect if the jumpers were loose before I reduced the speed setting.
I thought that you might want to know the update.
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P C as there is no battery charge.Hi madhu254,
Thank you for visiting Apple Support Communities.
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Protective cap supplied on powerbook power supply (the little clear one)
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I have managed to loose the little clear plastic cap that goes on the power supply when it is not plugged in to the powerbook.
As I want to keep everything clean and dirk free, I am after a new one.
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May the HDMI adapter be the cause of freezing on the TV?
I have my iPad 4 connected to the TV by using a lightning to HDMI adapter and noticed that sometimes the content being displayed on the TV freezes for a few seconds while the iPad is displaying it normally, so they all of a sudden get desynchronized until the TV finally catches up to the iPad.
I was actually thinking that has to do with the HDMI adapter due to all the transcoding involved which is done by this little device that is more like a mini computer. In fact, I read in some other discussion out there that Apple was going to improve the performance of this device through firmware updates, which would supposedly be in the next iOS versions.
I know this may not sound like a big deal, but I'm actually using the iPad for business purposes so it's very important that the content being displayed on the TV does not freeze.
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Best!I guess if I were to switch over to a 4:3 TV, another issue will be that there's no HDMI port on the TV...
I guess Apple is really trying to be funny....
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USB Ports Insufficient Power Supply
There are problems with my USB Ports (Macbook late 2011, 13").
I will break it down:
The rear USB port suddenly stopped working last week. I can confirm this becaues (1) my mouse does not work, and (2) I cannot charge any iPhones, iPods, or Blackberries when plugged into the port. They can charge and work when plugged into the front port, however.
Another interesting fact is that right when I plug my mouse in, the laser lights up for a second, then blinks off.
The front USB will only work under these conditions:
-Power Adapter is plugged in, or
-Power Adapter NOT plugged in, but the headphone jack cannot be occupied.
What should I do? I tried PRAM and SMC reset, to no avail.Then you have a problem with the logic board and it will need to be replaced to fix your USB problems. Sorry there is no other solution as everything is soldered to the main system board, what Apple calls the logic board and better known as the Motherboard in the rest of the computer world.
So hopefully you bought the Applecare extended warranty within the first year of ownership. Replacing the logic board is expensive.
Good Luck & Best Wishes. -
It appears to not be charged and when I go to plug in the charger the green/red indicator on the connector is not lighting up.
Reset SMC. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Choose the method for:
"Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".
If this does not help, contact Apple.
Genius Bar reservation:
http://www.apple.com/retail/geniusbar/
Best. -
Choosing the Right Power Supply
First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs -
How do I know if the Power Supply is shot?
Hi, I have G5 with a dual processor, purchased in 2003. I recently bought a new iMac and wanted to give the old G5 to a family member. The G5 just went dead, I think it took it personally.... I have done the resetting of the PMU, I have replaced the lithium battery. Nothing. Is there any way to test the other things to know what's dead? Is the power supply the next logical culprit? I know this computer isn't worth much but I'd like to have it limp along for another year. Any hints or ideas would be appreciated. I have been a huge fan of Discussions but this is my first post. Thank you.
WrightBrayne wrote:
I recently bought a new iMac and wanted to give the old G5 to a family member. The G5 just went dead, I think it took it personally....
Many moons ago, my previously trouble-free Mac IISI died less than a week after my Power Mac 7600 arrived. Spooky, ain't it?
Hope you were able to resuscitate your G5. -
How to get the recovery time of transient response of a power supply with Labview basic package without analysis option? Does anyone have any idea or some similar function SUBVIs?
Recovery time of transient response is defined as the time from the beginning of the transient to the voltage point on the waveform fallen into 10percent of the overshoot. Well, the waveform is something like a pulse with a soft slope.I recommend plotting your data on a graph on paper. Take a look at the data, and determine what is unique about the point you are looking for. Look for how you can teach your program to look for this point.
I have written several algorithms that do similar, one in fact being for a power supply, the other being for RPM. Neither algorithm used any advanced analysis tools. They are just a matter of determining, mathematically, when you achieve what you are looking for. Just sit down with your graph (I recommend multiple copies) and draw horizontal and vertical lines that determine when you get to the point you are looking for. You are probably going to have to reverse the array and start from the end, so think in those terms.
If you have trouble, emai
l me a bitmap of the graph, and what you are looking for and I will try to be of further assistance. Don't do that however; until you you have given this a few tries. Your solution should be involve a lot of logic on analog levels.
Good luck -
Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide
I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMDQuote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough. -
Crash when power supply is removed
During the last week my computer has been doing something really weird. Sometimes when I disconnect the power supply, my computer will freeze up/get into the window that tels you that you need to restart the computer. I installed a new hard drive about 2 months ago and a new airport card like 2-3 weeks ago so that most likely is not the problem. The problem occurs wether or not I have charge left on my computer.
Hi Pedro,
The first point of call for strange power related problems (or any problem really is to reset the PMU, following the instructions on this page - http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=14449
Regarding your other comments, regardless of your skill level (and to consider doing a hard drive swap in a 12 inch powerbook, you obviously have a fair bit) you may find that in re-assembly a cable has shorted somewhere or is not plugged in tightly, or something of that nature, so I would not immediately rule that out as a cause. -
Satellite L100 power supply keeps failing
Hi all,
I have an L100. A few weeks ago, the main power supply (the transformer brick) failed, so I replaced it (with a genuine Toshiba part).
Now the same thing has happened, 2 weeks later.
What could be causing this?
Thanks
RichardHi
You mean the AC adaptor?
Its not easy to say maybe its a simple bad luck.
I bought my first notebook 9 years ago. After 6 month if usage the AC adaptor was faulty and I had to replace it
But since 8 years its working fine
PS: If the AC adaptor is only 2 weeks old then the warranty should be valid
Contact the dealer and ask for a replacement.
Cheers -
Hi guys,
I am currently running a 865PE board, loaded with 1 CD writer, 1 DVD rom, 1 P-ATA HD and intend to add a S-ATA.
But it seem like I am not get enough power. My power supply is a 400W supply. Is that really insufficient?
Heard of this power supply calculator? Where can I get it? It is kind of difficult to search thru the forum for that.
Also, with the S-ATA, seem like the motherboard can detect my SATA HD. What should my PATA drive be set at ( the jumper setting)?
Appreciate if can guide me thru. THanksWith the power supply the amps are more important than the watts. On the label you will find the info (see Moan Guide). Post your complete hardware plus this info.
In bios under Integrated Peripherals, On Chip ATA Operating Mode set
Native Mode
ATA Configuration - SATA only
SATA Keep enabled - yes
PATA Keep enabled - yes
PATA channel selection - both
You may need to use PATA only instead of SATA only if Windows won't start.
PATA jumper should be master or slave unless it is Western Digital and there is no slave. That is covered in the above link as well. -
Mac Pro 2,1 Spontaneous Restart with No Boot - Power Supply PSU Problem?
One day I was working away on my Mac Pro 2,1 Quad Core 3.0 (2007) with 8 gb ram running Lion and it just shut itself off like someone pulled the power cord (but no one did of course). Then it attempted to restart, but wouldn't boot. Basically I haven't been able to use it since as I can't get the computer to stay on for any length of time.
I'm thinking its either the power supply or the, oh no, logic board.
Symptoms have been like this so far:
Initially I would get a chime and a boot start but then I would find the computer would shut itself off somewhere in the process and try to restart. Usually the next time I would get no chime and a horrible repeated clicking of my optical drive with a rythmic fan whirring up and down on the original ATI x1900 xt graphics card. I would have to manually power off with the power button to make it stop. Sometimes it would try to restart again anyway. The only way I could get a chime again was to unplug and wait (longer the better). But even if i got a chime and a start of a boot, invariably the computer would turn off again.
I couldn't boot from another source, I couldn't run apple hardware test, I couldn't run diagnostic,... it just wouldn't stay on to do it.
I hauled my mac pro (out of warranty) to the apple store genius bar and the problem presented itself, continuously. The gent was able to get fsck to work long enough to determine my hard drive was ok and said it was one of three things - the power supply, the graphics card, or the logic board. He said because the comp powered on and then shut off, and because there was intermittent chiming, he didn't think it was the power supply. He thought it was the graphics card and said I could leave my Mac for 10 days and they could take a looksy, or I could just install a new graphics card on my own.
I chose the latter, bought a ATI Radeon 5770 from the apple online store for $275 and installed it.
Problem persists.Exactly the same as before. Got initial chime, then next time no chime, optical drives clicking and graphics card fan whirring up and down rhythmically.
I had a touch of time to disconnect everything and I get a chime consistently now when I have my boot drive, graphics card, 4 gb ram, and monitor attached. (As well as wireless mouse, keyboard, trackpad). I even got to logon once only to have a prompt shut off and restart attempt. also I verified it was at least one optical drive clicking (when I removed them both) during these boot attempts.
The improvement in chiming seemed to be when I unseated one ram riser ( I have to with 2 x 2g ram modules each).
I also checked the diagnostic leds on the logic board and all was as it should be... says I got trickle power and rail power etc.
Is there anything else I can do to determine what's wrong? What do you guys think is wrong? Could it be bad RAM? Power Supply? Logic Board?
All your help is massively appreciated in advance!Well I ran as many tests as I could with no definitive results to the point I would have to start buying replacement parts and testing that way. I opted to take it back to the apple store and they said it's (dun dun dun dunnnnn) the logic board.
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ALS Power Supply in original iMac G5?
I currently have my iMac in for service, and am wondering if I should stop them from ordering the wrong part, if it is the wrong part. My iMac G5 is an original iMac G5. And the genius bar ended up choosing the Ambient Light Sensor iMac G5 power supply (the second generation, not the first) as a replacement to order. I just noticed this getting back from the store tonight looking at the receipt.
So the question is, will that power supply work in the older iMac G5 if it is in the U.S.?Have a look at the parts list here, they are very specific that the Ambient light power supply is only for the AL machine. I would call and ask them politely if they are doing the right thing and perhaps they will realise that they are two diffent machines witn two different power supplies.
Please let me know the upshot,
Miriam
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