Is it possible to delete the 2.02 update and then re-download it?
I am wondering if there was a problem when I downloaded 2.02 for my 2G. Can I yank the version I have and re-download it?
Go to User / Library / iTunes / iPhone Software Updates and remove the files in there and empty rubbish bin. Then reload iTunes and tell it to check for updates for the iPhone and it will re-download it.
Similar Messages
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Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?
Odd you ask that, since both are HORRIBLE, ... especially often draining your battery low.
General consideration of your MacBook battery
Contrary to popular myths about notebook batteries, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot ‘overcharge’ your notebook when plugged in and already fully charged.
However if you do not plan on using your notebook for several hours, turn it off (plugged in or otherwise), since you do not want your Macbook ‘both always plugged in and in sleep mode’.
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium-Ion cells the "80% Rule", meaning use 80% of the full charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life. The only quantified damage done in the use of Lithium Ion batteries are instances where the internal notebook battery is “often drained very low”, this is bad general use of your notebook battery.
A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 40% remaining of a 100% charge has a better battery condition state than, say, another person who has 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 10-15% remaining on a 100% charge. DoD (depth of discharge) is much more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook’s battery than the count of charge cycles. There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in specific. Frequent high depth of discharge rates (draining the battery very low) on a Lithium battery will hasten the lowering of maximum battery capacity.
All batteries in any device are a consumable meant to be replaced eventually after much time, even under perfect use conditions.
If the massive amount of data that exists on lithium batteries were to be condensed into a simplex, helpful, and memorable bit of information it would be:
1. While realistically a bit impractical during normal everyday use, a lithium battery's longevity and its chemistry's health is most happy swinging back and forth between 20% and 85% charge roughly.
2. Do not purposefully drain your battery very low (10% and less), and do not keep them charged often or always high (100%).
3. Lithium batteries do not like the following:
A: Deep discharges, as meaning roughly 10% or less on a frequent basis.
B: Rapid discharges as referring to energy intensive gaming on battery on a frequent basis (in which case while gaming, if possible, do same on power rather than battery). This is a minor consideration.
C: Constant inflation, as meaning always or most often on charge, and certainly not both in sleep mode and on charge always or often.
From Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific. As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
(as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above: “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
In a lithium battery, deep discharges alter the chemistry of the anode to take up lithium ions and slowly damages the batteries capacity for the cathode to transport lithium ions to the anode when charging, thereby reducing max charge levels in mAh. In short, radical swings of power to lithium cells disrupts the chemical ecosystem of the battery to hold charges correctly which likewise impedes the perfect transfer of lithium ions both in charging and discharging. In charging your lithium battery, lithium ions are “pushed uphill” (hard) to the anode, and discharged “downhill” (easy) to the cathode when on battery power. Deep discharges, damages this “upward” electrolyte chemistry for the battery to maintain a healthy charge and discharge balance relative to its age and cycles.
Optimally, in terms of a healthy lithium battery and its condition, it is most happy at 50% between extremes, which is why low-power-drain processors such as the Haswell are ideal on lithium battery health since a partially charged battery with a low-drain processor has, in general, much more usage in hours
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.
From BASF: How Lithium Batteries work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjyJhe7Q1g
Peace -
I recently updated my iphone 4s for verizon. Its the newest update..anyways it ran through the processs of updating and then told me to plug it into my computer. I did and the only option i got was to restore my iphone. I did and on my iphone the bar loaded to about 75% and stopped. My computer came up with an error. It said it was unavailable to restore this is iphone and unknown error occured. I tried using a different cord different usb slot checked my computer software updated my itunes but the same effect happened. I am getting very worried that my iphone is going to go in the trash soon. Can anyone help with annoying problem.
Hello the_problematic_iphone
Check out the article below if you are not able to restore your iPhone.
iOS: Unable to update or restore
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1808
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
Regards,
-Norm G. -
How do I download a completely new install file?
Anand,
I had already tried downloading a copy 3 times but it doesn't work. It says it can't find the .cab still. Do I need to completely delete the version I have and start over completely? The version I have works but I'm worried about it getting too far behind in terms of updates. What do you suggest.?
Thanks,
Jered -
I-phone 4........I am being auto-prompted to update my IOS from 7.1 to 7.1.1. Each time I try to do that on i-tunes it gets to about 400Mb of the 1.3Mb file and then drops out with an "error has occured" message. I have 5Gb free space on the phone. I have tried to do that wirelessly also and it says "an error has occured while checking for a software update"........does anyone have any ideas?....thanx
Dear Jody..jone5
Good for you that can't update your iphone because I did it and my iphone dosen't work for example I can't download any app like Wecaht or Twitter..
Goodluck
Atousa -
my ipad is not updating to new os
If you can't update connected to wifi, try to update connected to your computer. Do you have enough available storage space?
If you have an iPad 1, the max iOS is 5.1.1. For newer iPads, the current iOS is 7.0.4. The Settings>General>Software Update only appears if you have iOS 5.0 or higher currently installed.
You can no longer update to iOS 6.x, or down grade the iOS.
iOS 5: Updating your device to iOS 5 or Later
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4972
How to install iOS 6
http://www.macworld.com/article/2010061/hands-on-with-ios-6-installation.html
iOS: How to update your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4623
If you are currently running an iOS lower than 5.0, connect the iPad to the computer, open iTunes. Then select the iPad under the Devices heading on the left, click on the Summary tab and then click on Check for Update.
Tip - If connected to your computer, you may need to disable your firewall and antivirus software temporarily. Then download and install the iOS update. Be sure and backup your iPad before the iOS update. After you update an iPad (except iPad 1) to iOS 6.x, the next update can be installed via wifi (i.e., not connected to your computer).
Tip 2 - If you're updating via wifi, place your iPad close to your router to preclude getting a corrupted download.
How to Upgrade to iOS 7
The iOS 7.0 update requires around 2.5 GB of storage space, so if your iPad is almost full, you may need to clear up some space. You can check your available space in Settings -> General -> Usage.
There are two ways to upgrade to iOS 7: You can use your Wi-Fi connection, or you can connect your iPad to your PC and update through iTunes. We'll go over each method.
To upgrade using Wi-Fi:
Note: If your iPad's battery is under 50%, you will want to plug it into your charger while performing the update.
Go into the iPad's Settings.
Locate and tap "General" from the menu on the left.
The second option from the top is "Software Update". Tap this to move into the update settings.
Tap "Download and Install". This will start the upgrade, which will take several minutes and will reboot your iPad during the process. If the Download and Install button is grayed out, trying clearing up some space. The space required by the update is mostly temporary, so you should gain most of it back after iOS 7 is installed.
Once the update is installed, you may have to run through the initial steps of setting up your iPad again. This is to account for new features and settings.
To upgrade using iTunes:
First, connect your iPad to your PC or Mac using the cable provided when you purchased your device. This will allow iTunes to communicate with your iPad.
You will also need the latest version of iTunes. Don't worry, you will be prompted to download the latest version when you launch iTunes. Once it installs, you may be asked to setup iCloud by logging into your iTunes account. If you have a Mac, you may be prompted on whether or not you want to enable the Find my Mac feature.
Now you are ready to begin the process:
If you upgraded iTunes earlier, go ahead and launch it. (For many, it will launch automatically when you plug in your iPad.)
Once iTunes is launched, it should automatically detect that a new version of the operating system exists and prompt you to upgrade to it. Choose Cancel. Before updating, you will want to manually sync your iPad to make sure everything is up to date.
After canceling the dialog box, iTunes should automatically sync with your iPad.
If iTunes doesn't automatically sync, you can manually do it by selecting your iPad within iTunes, clicking on the File menu and choosing Sync iPad from the list.
After your iPad has been synced to iTunes, select your iPad within iTunes. You can find it on the left side menu under Devices.
From the iPad screen, click on the Update button.
After verifying that you want to update your iPad, the process will begin. It takes a few minutes to update the operating system during which time your iPad may reboot a few times.
After updating, you may be asked a few questions when your device finally boots back up. This is to account for new settings and features.
Cheers, Tom -
The lates official update and then mobile crasheh
Hi
I have one big problem, about two days ago my mobile phone (nokia C7) offered me a official upgrade from nokia. I said ok ind from then just problems.
- when i turn on mobile phone pop up say that "phone setting, function unavaiable" (i translated this from my language)
- I can't call nobody (the phones just ignores my action)
- My keypad doesent show so i cant type any phone number just sms
- When somebody is calling me i cant hear nothing and on my display nothing shows ( the caller is hearing the beaping)
- The phnoe doesen't alow me to hard reset ( in options it says that one active connetction is blocking it, even when i'm in no connection mode), i even tried that code (*#7370#) but the phone doesen't let me to use a keypad and the second hard reset doesen't work (home button+camera button+sound button+power button)
- When i tried to reinstal this upade (restore) with nokia ovi suite it crasheh in the middle, it says something went wrong with downloaded files ( i tried that on two difrent computers)
Thank for your help and tips and i hope you help mi to find some answer.
p.s. sorry for my bad english
Solved!
Go to Solution.SLOperson wrote:
the second hard reset doesen't work (home button+camera button+sound button+power button)
Menu, camera and volume down all depressed whilst powering on but release power button only after first vibration keeping other three depressed until Nokia "Shaking hands" logo appears.
Happy to have helped forum with a Support Ratio = 42.5 -
I deleted the photos via Finder and empty trash long time ago. The thing is, that I want to recover one event or album. The event appears in the iphoto but when open, it shows "!". Is it possible to recover the photos?
No. When you removed the photos via the finder you damage the library. Photos should always be removed from the library using iPhoto, never with the Finder.
If you have a Time Machine backup of the library from before you deleted the photos you can restore the library to the Desktop and export that album from it to import into your current library.
It's been too long to be able to try one of the file recovery applications. You sure to have overwritten those files with new files since them.
OT -
Is it possible to delete the table of contents in a pdf but keep the bookmarks?
Is it possible to delete the table of contents in a pdf but keep the bookmarks?
If the TOC is located on certain pages, you can simply delete those (from the Pages panel).
Make sure it doesn't screw up with how your bookmarks work, though... -
I created an alias precisely because I wanted to make it the new default name and then quickly realized it wasn't possible. How long after deleting the alias will it become available again so that I can create a new account with it?
I'm trying to make iCloud mail my primary email but I'm concerned that I may have lost the perfect email address forever.I have the same problem. After our wedding I've created an alias ([email protected]) to my actual AppleID Account ([email protected]). Now I'd the idea to delete the alias and my actual AppleID to create a new AppleID with ([email protected]).
Is there really no possibilty to do this?
Thanks in advance for quick and positive feedback. -
New to the Apple and I want to set up a user account that will not delete the guest users files and allow and preserve their personal settings after log out. Is this possible?
The built-in guest user account will not do this. Simply create a new standard account and call it "Guest" or "Guest Users" or whatever you like.
Go to System Preferences > Users& Groups, click "+" to make a new account. -
mackeeper has detected a virus in the time capsule backup, it is not possible to delete the infected file. Do I mount time capsule in finder and then consign to junk the whole computer backup then create a fresh backup? Is that the only solution please.
Follow these instructions to uninstall MacKeeper. They have been tested with the most recent version of MacKeeper. Earlier versions than the one released in 2012 require more extensive work to uninstall all its components. Never install such junk on a Mac.
If you actually used MacKeeper to alter your system, e.g. "remove excess binaries" or such, you will need to reinstall OS X as well as all your additional software. Uninstalling MacKeeper is insufficient to reverse the corruption it is capable of - once again, that is if you used it.
If you merely installed MacKeeper but did not use it to perform any particular action, the following instructions will suffice.
If you used MacKeeper to encrypt any files or folders, use MacKeeper to un-encrypt them first.
Quit the MacKeeper app if it is running.
Open your Applications folder: Using the Finder's Go menu, select Applications.
Drag the MacKeeper icon from your Applications folder (not the Dock) to the Trash.
You will be asked to authenticate (twice):
You do not need to provide a reason for uninstalling it:
Just click the Uninstall MacKeeper button. You will be asked to authenticate again.
After it uninstalls you may empty the Trash and restart your Mac. All that will remain is an inert log file that does nothing but occupy space on your hard disk.
May I suggest that you review the following setting in System Preferences?
Although you may easily override that setting, it will serve to protect you from inadvertently installing garbage. The overwhelming majority of Macs I come across have the MacKeeper installer file already present in their Downloads folder, often multiple copies of it. The downloaded file itself can do nothing until it is opened and installed, and the above setting (known as Gatekeeper - not to be confused with MacKeeper) will prevent that from occurring. -
It is possible to delete the request after compression
Hi,
It is possible to delete the request after compression,if it yes,how can delete the request.Hi,
You cannot delete the request individually but you can one of the following:
1. Do a selective deletion from the cube. RSA1 -> Cube -> Contents -> selective deletion.
2. Delete all the data in the cube and then reconstruct only the required request ids. This would work only if you have the PSA available for all the requests.
3. Reverse posting is another possibility.
Bye
Dinesh -
Why am I unable to delete the default track (which seems to act as the master, right?) after making a rough mix? Is it possible to delete the default track after having rendered a mix? I did a rough mix and now cannot change the song as the tracks that were a part of the rough mix seem to remain in the song even though I mute the tracks for a new mix. For instance, I played and recorded a different bass line. Muted the original, but when trying to create the new mix I can hear the original bass line even though I have muted that track. It seems to remain in the previous master (default) track. Please send help. Thank you.
Before answering your question, you have to make sure you understand the difference between the different track types in GarageBand.
Tracks, you record your music on
There are three types of those Tracks.
MIDI Tracks (aka Software Instrument Tracks)
Audio Tracks (aka Real Instrument Tracks)
Drummer Track (only one per Project)
Global Tracks
These are the Tracks that can be shown/hidden at the top of the Tracks Area for specific purposes.
Arrangement Track
Movie Track
Transposition Track
Tempo Track
Master Track
This Track can also be shown/hidden in the Tracks Area. Please note, you cannot delete that Track, only hide it, similar to the Global Tracks
Regarding the Tracks you record your music on, you can delete any of those. It doesn't matter if you created them or there are part of a Template (maybe that is what you refer to as the default track). Once you delete the last Track, the "New Track Window" will pop up to add a new track.
I will explain all that in much more detail in my manual "GarageBand X - How it Works".
Hope that helps
Edgar Rothermich
http://DingDingMusic.com/Manuals/
'I may receive some form of compensation, financial or otherwise, from my recommendation or link.' -
After the last update of the iPhone 5.1 sound became low tones specifically entered into the settings and made the maximum sound d, but to no avail there is no update for this problem Haddl Is it possible to delete the Japanese language and take advantage of memory storage space
Osmhto tried to solve the problem of low sound we have become we do not hear a tone sounds clearly like the first phonehello...
I am having the same issue here... just upgraded my 5s to 7.1.1 (never jailbroken - factory unlocked) and then boom... NO Service!!! Searching ... that's it. currently using Smart Telecom Sim... at first it was working for me... after 6-7 hours, it started the No Service issue. I cannot send a text or make a call...
I did the steps you have taken but it is still not working... any updates on your end?
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