Is it time to eBay my good ole G5??
I have a G5 dual core 2.0 and have been using it as a server for my home network. It is connected to 10TB of storage for all my videos ect. I just now swapped my plasma for a projector. B/c I do not want several cables running to my projector I am using my receiver (Yamaha RX-V765) as a audio video switch. the G5 has dual DVI out and Optical sound outputs. the receiver has HDMI and component inputs as well as optical in (for component only). If i use a DVI to HDMI cable I cannot have sound and video together (so I can either see the screen or hear the sound) Anyone have solution other than finally upgrading my G5? I have been looking for a graphics card that has HDMI out with no success. I also ordered a DVI to component adaptor from mycablemart.com that I cannot get a picture out of. Thanks
In some other posts there has been a DVI&audio to HDMI cable mentioned that should solve your problem. I haven't bookmarked those discussions or the links to the adapter cables, but the cable IS out there.
Tracy
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I have i phone 4s i there is problem of wifi my wifi is not working when i go to the wifi there is no working on off when i update it as a 6.1 ios on that time again it was good but after 2 days again the same problem i am too tired and i also reset network setting but nothing gonna be worked
Sounds like the device was dropped at some point and damaged as a result.
Take it to Apple for evaluation and a replacement. -
A cautionary tale - being a long time VZW customer in good standing gets you nowhere
Here is a cautionary tale about how being a long time VZW customer in good standing counts for nothing.
My wife and I have been VZW customers for many years. We each have upgraded phones at least two times over our initial models. Several years ago, we added a third phone to our account: nothing fancy, just a crappy Coupe flip phone. At the time, this third phone was a $10 add-on in the family plan, and was handed to my mother in law to use. After my mother in law passed away, my father in law kept the phone, and we kept up the payments for it. His health failed, and when he passed away, the phone moved to my brother in law, and we again kept up the payments on the phone ourselves.
Now in the meantime, back in 2011, my wife wanted to upgrade her phone. Either because her prior phone wasn't up for an upgrade or due to us just not paying attention, we somehow apparently "transferred" the upgrade that available for our in-laws' definitely-not-smart flip phone to my wife's phone. Now, since it was the upgrade of the $10 per-month flip phone we used to upgrade the Droid, it was the contract of the $10-per-month flip phone that got renewed into another 2-year cycle - not the Droid.
Also in the meantime, I upgraded my Samsung Rogue to a Galaxy S3. At the same time, I modified our plan to the Share Everything plan. Because of the nature of this plan, the 3rd phone, the crappy Coupe flip phone, that used to be $10 per month increased to $30 per month. When I signed my own new contract, I specifically asked at the VZW store whether it would be simple to drop the Coupe from the plan, because I was not sure how much longer our brother in law would need it. They said sure, it would not be a problem. Drop it whenever you need to, and your bill will go down $30 per month!
Now we come to the end of 2012 when my brother in law does not need this phone anymore, and in fact returned it to us. It is sitting here collecting dust. I called VZW today to remove it from our account. Can you see where this is going? Because we triggered the new contract for this phone by upgrading my wife's OTHER phone back in 2011, the Coupe is still under contract. So our choice is apparently keep paying $30 per month until June for a phone that used to only cost $10 per month and that no one is using, or pay a $150 termination fee.
I understand how this works contractually. But the big picture is that we have been good customers for many years, have been paying for 3 phones on our account for several of those years, and one of those phones is no longer being used (the usage is literally 0). But can we drop that phone from our contract now that we have been paying on it for multiple years? Nooooo. I was misled by VZW agents when I upgraded our plan to one that increased the cost of this phone from $10 per month to $30 per month that removing it would not be a problem. A cheap flip-phone phone, which is probably physically worth $5 in hardware, if that, and which itself has never been upgraded since it was purchased several years ago, cannot be removed from our account. When it's all said and done we will end up paying vastly more than the phone and its usage is actually worth because VZW "got us" with the contract shenanigans. Congratulations, Verizon Wireless, well played.
Ironically, the Droid - which gets lots of usage - is beyond its upgrade date and is no longer under contract. So I guess we could drop that phone with no problem. But we don't want to, we want to drop the cheap phone that no one uses. And we can't. As I said to the agent on the phone today who was not interested in helping a long time customer solve a problem, this is exactly why people hate cell phone companies.I'm not *too* worried about VZW's feelings since they in effect have changed up the original contract when they forced my monthly fee for the phone to go from $10 per month to $30 per month because I upgraded a totally different phone that required a whole new calling plan, as the older plan had conveniently been phased out. (Interesting how action on one phone has an effect on totally different phones that are on a totally different contract.) Anyway, this isn't us trying to bilk VZW out of legitimate income. It's trying to do what makes sense.
Perhaps I muddied the water with all the history of the third phone. The distilled version is this: We have 3 phones on our account, two smart phones and one ancient flip phone. Only two of the three are still under contract, so there is one we are free to drop at any time. And we would indeed like to drop one phone from the account. It would be in VZWs best interest to have the phone we drop be the one they make the least amount of money from. That would be the flip phone. It is in our best interest to drop the phone that is no longer in use. That is the flip phone. Seems like a win-win situation to me!
But because of the the way contracts are structured, if we are to drop a phone, it needs to be the Droid, because that's the one now beyond the contract period. So we would drop the phone that VZW makes more money from, and that we still use. This is in the best interest of neither of us.
Yes, I'm trying to terminate early the contract we have on the flip phone. But on the other hand, we are willing to continue making monthly payments on a more expensive phone that is NOT under contract anymore. It seems like there's an easy fix: let us drop the flip phone, and heck, go ahead and put the Droid back onto contract for what would have been the duration of the flip phone contract. The inflexibility and inability to do something like this is what's irritating.
Contracts are great until there is a reason for both parties to make a change that is beneficial to everyone involved. I think that's what we have here. Contracts can be updated. Ask any professional athlete -
How can I set my date and time to ebay network time server?
In the system preferences I would like to set the date and time to ebay UK time?
I thought a quick google would be bring up the server and I can't find it.
At the bottom of every ebay page there is a link to official ebay time
But its not a live feed of time to get it to the second.
I want it to be accurate so that I can use applescript to snipe bargins.
Many Thanks
MattJust trying to go along the free route. I found Garage Buy This doesn't work to well but lets you create an applescript and enters the auction into ical. Then you can set ical to run the script once it gets closer to the time.
Ical only lets you set a time of a minute before the date. So you have to edit the script to add a Delay 59 to have it run 1 second before. From a few refreshes of the time page it looks like ebay time is a second behind, that could be easily be due to time to load the page. anyway i'll opt for a delay of 57secs and give that a try. -
Can I turn off CSS in DW CS4 and use good ole HTML tags?
Can I turn off CSS in DW4 and use good ole HTML tags?
I can in DW CS3 but can't see how to in CS4.
Thanks.Having just been though a similar issue as described in another thread, I thought you might find this useful:
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/522805?tstart=0 -
Hi I Have A Prepaid Smart Phone Right Now With Verizon For About 7-Months So Far. I Have Always Paid On Time No Missed Payments Good Standing Account, I Tried To Switch Over To A 2-Year Contract With Verizon And They Wanted A $400 Deposit For Only 1-Line. Is There Anyway I Can Use My Excellent Payment History With There Prepaid Department To Switch To A 2-Year Contract And Not Have To Pay The $400 Deposit. And This Is Due To The Fact I Have No Credit History Whatsoever
Since you have no credit history, my guess is you would need at least a year of on time payments, and I'm not sure a pre-paid account would qualify as you can stop at any time.
You didn't specify your age, but getting started int he credit world is not easy - you may try applying for a gas card, or a credit card, and USE them, pay them off each month - and expect to take a year or more to establish a record. -
I'm still using 'good ole' Appleworks 6 on Snow Leopard. I'v heard that Maverick does NOT support Appleworks 6. Is this true?? Are my 20 years of Appleworks files now useless?
Boomba29 wrote:
I'm still using 'good ole' Appleworks 6 on Snow Leopard. I'v heard that Maverick does NOT support Appleworks 6. Is this true?? Are my 20 years of Appleworks files now useless?
Word Processing documents can be opened directly in Pages 4 (AppleWorks 6 only) but this is no longer available from Apple - the new Pages 5 (Mavericks required) does not open AppleWorks documents. (The older version is contained in the iWork '09 box set which may still be available from Amazon and other independent retailers.) Panergy Software's docXConverter v3.2 ($19.95) can convert Appleworks 5 and 6 Word Processing documents to RTF (though it has been reported that it can only handle documents which contain only text, not those which include images or frames). The latest version of the free LibreOffice has announced that it can open AppleWorks 6 Word Processing documents and an ability to open ClarisWorks documents has been reported: it does appear to be able to handle at least some embedded images.
Draw Documents can be opened directly only in EazyDraw (the more expensive version from their website, not the cheaper one from the Mac App Store, and you will need v4.0 'Retro' not the most recent version) or Intaglio (though this appears not to be able to handle very complex drawings). LibreOffice will open simple Draw documents but I found it very unreliable with complex ones.
Spreadsheets can be opened directly only in the older versions of Numbers - the new version for Mavericks will not do this. The old version is no longer available from Apple. (Again, the older version is contained in the iWork '09 box set which may still be available from Amazon and other independent retailers.)
Presentations can be opened directly only in the older versions Keynote; again, the new version for Mavericks will not do this. The old version is no longer available from Apple. (The older version is contained in the iWork '09 box set which may still be available from Amazon and other independent retailers.)
Nothing will open Database documents. You would need to export the data as ASCII and import it into another database program; you will lose your formatting and calculations will come over as the result, not the calculation.
This article examines 'abandoning Appleworks' in detail:
http://wilmut.uk/aw -
Face time was working very good but suddenly I can't make any call ! I have iPad mini
face time was working very good but suddenly befor 3 days I can't make or receiv any call. I have iPad mini iOS 8.1.3
Hi Sunlightbm,
Sorry to hear that you cannot make any FaceTime calls. If you have not done so already, take a look at the article below to go over some general troubleshooting to get it back up and working again. Check the settings on your iPad for things like Date & Time is set correctly to making sure your connection to the internet is good.
If you can't make or receive FaceTime calls
http://support.apple.com/en-us/TS3367
Take it easy,
-Norm G. -
Something software related prevented me from being able to boot up my iMAC. The remedy was to wipe the computer of all soft wear and re-inatall everything via my time capsule. All good there.. but now I cannot open Ai and a box stating"Licensing for this product has stopped working" and to reference error code 150:30. How do I get my Ai to open?
Run the cleaner tool and reinstall it properly.
Use the CC Cleaner Tool to solve installation problems | CC, CS3-CS6
Download CS6 products
Mylenium -
Videos not playing in iphoto with quick time/// pictures disappearing for good..
upgraded to snow leopard. I used to be able to double click on my videos in Iphoto and they would start playing in quicktime. Now when i double click my videos, its not even acknowledged that i double clicked them at all. my video ONLY plays if i drag and drop the video on my desktop then double click. ALSO, when i merge photo events together in my iphoto or just move them around in iphoto they disappear and i cant find them anymore, forcing me to get out my time machine an back up to when i had those photos again... and i heard that iphoto 11 is not a good buy.. please help on this too thank you..
well nevermind anyway... i bought LION and ILIFE11..... things seem to be in shape now...
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Are lightning cables from eBay any good?
Hey folks, I am currently using an iPhone 5 and I am looking to purchase two more lightning cables for it - one for my car and the other for my office at work.
Are lightining cables from eBay good enough? They're running for $3-4 a pop so it would save me some money. Anyone have any experience with these cables from eBay?
I am well aware of the fact that iOS 7 will display an annoying popup everytime I connect this "non-apple certified" lightining cable but I think I can live with that.
Thanks in advance!Geez, relax man I get what you're saying but I can't justify spending $50+ for two charging cables. Charging cables......I mean common. Plus, I don't understand the need for those "identification chips" in these lightning cables. Seems like a waste of money to me and we the consumers needlessly end up paying more for something we probably don't even need. I mean, I don't see these identification chips in micro-usb charging cables, nor did Apple have them in their old 30-pin cables. Apple can be really controlling sometimes lol.
If you're going to say if you don't like thier policies maybe you shouldn't by an Apple product, save it. -
Have been using good ole cannons from 70 h 80's for years.Need to update and understand new technolo
Have been using the cannons for many years mostly scenic areas. Quit using them eight years past.
I am retired and need to update and understand what you have so l can start over.Thanks for your help, Edgar.Hi Edgar,
While there are occasional Canon tech wizards on here to help out, mostly it's conversations among Canon users.
You are basically wanting to go from film to digital, which can be both easy and very, very complex. Some of the modern DSLRs can be used in a highly automated, almost "point n shoot" manner. Or you can get as involved in using them as you wish, using less of the automation, usually with more consistent and pleasing results... but a much steeper learning curve.
If your Canon are from the 70s and 80s, they are manual focus lenses and cameras with the FD mount. Some of those were fantastic, but simply aren't usable on modern Canon, which use EF mount. So you are most likely starting from scratch.
I'd recommend one of the more entry-level models, perhaps with one or two kit lenses to get started learning to shoot digital. But it sort of depends upon your budget, how much you want to spend. I don't know where you are in the world... I'm in the US so below I'm refering to the current US model designations Canon offers (and international designations are in parens). All these models are "EOS".
The Canon Rebel T3 (1100D) is the most entry level model. If bought in kit, it usually comes with EF 18-55mm lens.
Rebel SL1 (100D) is a very compact camera, in kit usually comes with 18-55mm lens.
Rebel T3i (600D) is a bit larger and adds some features... in kit it's often offered with 18-55mm, or sometimes with 18-135mm, or sometimes in a 2-lens kit with 18-55mm and 55-250mm.
Rebel T5i (700D) is the top of the Rebel series line and mostly adds features related to videography. It can be found in kit with the same options as the T3i.
EOS 60D is a mid-grade model, using a true pentaprism (the Rebel series use a penta-mirror). With higher top shutter speed (1/8000 vs 1/4000 on the Rebels), somewhat different controls (more direct access to things commonly used by more advanced photographers). The 60D is being discontinued right now, but you will still see a lot of them in stores.
All the above have essentially the same "APS-C size" 18MP sensor (except T3/1100D which uses a 15MP sensor). T5i and 60D have a similar, more advanced autofocus system.
EOS 70D is the new model that's replacing the 60D, has a new 20MP sensor, as well as a more sophisticated autofocus system than any of the above.
60D and 70D in kit usually come with 18-135mm lens, but sometimes there are alternatives.
The EOS 7D is the top of the line APS-C size sensor, a fairly pro-oriented camera with less support for new digital shooters, a sophisticated and fast autofocus system. .
Finally there are also and so-called "full frame models EOS 6D, 5D Mark III and 1DX (sensor is 24x36mm, same image size as most 35mm film cameras shoot). The 6D is essentially an entry-level, more compact full frame model. 5D Mark III is a mid-grade model, and the 1DX is an uber expensive pro-oriented, high speed model. You might be tempted by these initially, coming from film cameras. But be aware they not only cost more initially, are a bit more limited in lens choices, plus the lenses for them will generally tend to be larger, heavier and more expensive. The APS-C or "crop sensor" models can use all EF and all EF-S lenses. While the "full frame" models can only use EF lenses. EF-S lenses are specifically designed for crop sensor cameras. EF lenses were designed for film or have been designed for full frame, but are also fully usable on crop cameras. So, crop cameras can essentially use any lens Canon has made since around 1990 and onward.
I'd recommend you start with one of the crop sensor models.... graduate later to one of the full frame models, if you find that necessary. Today's crop sensor cameras are actually quite capable. You can make a pretty large print from them, with little loss of image quality. You'll just have to "re-think" focal lengths, from what you are accustomed to. For example, a 50mm lens on a crop sensor camera is no longer a "standard" lens. It acts more as a short telephoto, like an 80mm would on your film cameras (nice for portraits). If you want a standard lens on a crop sensor camera, you'll want something around 30mm. The 18-55mm kit lenses, for example, cover approx. the same angle of view range as a 28-90mm zoom would on your film cameras.
Now, seeing that you are an experienced SLR user, you probably don't need the automation and newbie support of some of the most entry-level models. But also going from manual focus to autofocus (which, when used right is faster and more accurate than I ever was with manual focus, and I was pretty good!)... I'd suggest starting out with one of the simpler AF systems.
The T5i or 60D might be good choices for you. Go compare in a store, if at all possible.
Just as was true in the days of film, lenses still tend to make more of a difference than the camera they are used upon. In other words, the entry level kit lenses might be a low cost way to get into modern, autofocus, digital cameras... but if you're budget allows you might want to consider some more advanced lenses. In the kit lenses, I would recommend the "STM" (stepper motor autofocus drive) models... they are the latest and greatest. But there are even better, in particular the USM (ultrasonic motor autofocus drive) which are often found in otherwise upgraded lenses. For example, for crop cameras there are the EF-S 10-22mm, EF-S 15-85mm USM, EF-S 17-55/2.8 USM and EF 70-200/4L USM lenses. These are fast and accurate focusing, with top quality optics. Most of these lenses also have or are optionally available with Image Stabilization (IS), which is great and allows handheld shots that were near impossible with your older gear. Highly recommended.
Shop around and don't forget to allow some room in your budget for other necessities. You'll need memory cards (the entry level models and T5i, 60D that I recommended all use "SD/SDHC" memory cards). You also might want a spare camera battery (most entry level models use LP-E8, the 60D uses the larger LP-E6 to get about twice as many shots per charge). There are also accessory battery grips available for most models mentioned, which give secondary controls that are nice when shooting with the camera in portrait orientation, as well as adding a second battery to double the number of shots you can take. Most of the lenses mentioned don't include the lens hood, which I highly recommend buying, too.
All these Canon cameras come with a complete software suite, all you really need to get started cataloging and editing your images on your computer (some other manufacturers sell certain softwares separately). However you still might want to look into some third party softwares. Adobe Elements is an excellent and affordable introduction to Photoshop, which is arguably the "big daddy" of all image editing softwares. There are others... some cheaper, even some free... and you don't really need to rush into adding softwares unless you simply want to. The included Canon software is fine to get started.
I guarantee you will find yourself shooting a lot more digital images, than you ever did with film. For one, after the initial cost of the camera, lenses and basic gear, you will feel like "shooting digital is free!". It's not really (camera and memory wear out eventually, upgrades come along, and digital storage & backup fill up rather quickly). But it's certainly cheaper than shooting film. Last time I shot a lot of film I figured it cost a minimum of 50 to 75 cents per shot (common 35mm film with local, consumer grade processing, 4x6 prints or contact sheets... $15 to $20 per 36 exposure film). Digital reduces that to around 5 cents per shot, on average.
You'll also love high ISO shooting with your new DSLR. Any of the above cameras can be used at ISO 1600 with much better results than any film at that rating. With a little extra work, ISO 3200 and 6400 are quite usable... perhaps even higher! I rarely use lower than ISO 200 now, where with film the bulk of my work was at ISO 50 and 100.
You also will enjoy the immediate feedback you get being able to review your images on the spot, right on the LCD screen on the back of the camera. The histogram, in particular, is very helpful once you learn to use it. Heck, you can even shoot tethered to a computer and see your images full size on a computer monitor immediately, if you wish... Or download them and view them just minutes after pressing the shutter release button!
Get some books about digital photography. In addition to something more general, I also highly recommend getting one of the guide books specific to whatever camera model you choose. That will complement the manual that comes with the camera. If you get an image editing/cataloging software, I'd recommend a book specifically for that, too. Another book I recommend is "The DAM Book - Digital Asset Management for Photographers"... which can be found and bought online. It's very helpful setting up your "workflow", and the sooner you do that, the better (it's the pits having to go back, reorganize and potentially redo thousands or hundreds of thousands of images).
There are also good online tutorials about many aspects of digital photography. For example, I highly recommend the three half-hour videos on YouTube about Canon autofocus systems and how to get the best results with them... beginning with this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAx86nblZ2g This is a few years old now, but still quite relevant... the 50D is discussed at length, but it uses an AF system that's virtually identical to the 60D, for example. It also might help to know some of the features of the more recent, more spphisticated AF systems, which are discussed a bit. There are other videos and online tutorials at the Canon Learning Center, on YouTube, and elsewhere. Some are model specific... such as the AF system of the 7D (which is largely carried over into the 70D now).... and the even more advanced 5D Mark III/1DX AF system.
Other users here and at other forums online can be a big help, too. Don't be afraid to ask questions (we've all been there at one time or another).
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM -
Ahh... the good ole logic board
This isn't really a question as it is a request for suggestions. I recently purchased an ibook via Ebay. The seller had described the unit as powering up occasionally, then dying for a bit, then coming back to life.One of the things they stated was that it had a form stating the logic board had been replaced. I was slightly concerned, but I feel I know quite a bit about the Mac and figured maybe they were overlooking something, so I took the chance and bought the thing. I get it, won't start. I plug it in at home, batter charges... won't start. I take it into a repair place - the guy fiddles with the extension cord (it looked like it had been yanked) and gets it to power up. I figure need a new cord. I head to the apple store. Genius at the bar can't start it up, says it's the logic board - a roughly $1000 replacement. I'm like, ***? I just paid $400 for the thing. I thought maybe he was rushing, so took it to an authorized mac service provider. Shelled out $130 for diagnostics. Just got the call - faulty logic board. Cost, $850. So, here's my question - if the board was replaced by apple (as the included note said), shouldn't apple offer some sort of logic board replacement? I'm not sure on the timing of when this happened, but I'm sure a scan of the serial would provide the details. I just can't help but think I've just shelled out almost $600 for a mac paperweight. Does anyone think it's worth a call to Customer Relations? I'm a mac guy through and through, have owned multiple macs, and own a business run on macs. Think they'll lend a sympathetic ear, or did I just get screwed? (One major thing to note was that the auction was labelled 'As is', so there's no recourse for me through the seller).
Hi, Dave. Welcome to our little corner of the Apple Discussions world.
You should have come here before you made the purchase. Enough dual USB G3 iBooks suffered from this problem that Apple began the iBook Logic Board Repair Extension Program in January of 2004. Check out the FAQ page and if the symptoms look familiar, give Apple a call. If your iBook qualifies, it's a free fix.
You can find the original purchase date by heading to the Main Support Page and plugging in the iBook's serial number to find the original purchase date. If it's more than three years ago, you're out of luck with Apple, unless the repair by Apple was done within the last 90 days. (Repairs are warranted for 90 days.)
Hindsight being 20/20, where do you go from here? If it's past the three-year cutoff date, I recommend sending it to DT & T Computer Services. They do the logic board repair for $225 plus shipping to and from Fremont, California. (And free diagnostics for anyone who hasn't already paid for that.)
This is sad, Dave, 'cause you could have had a new iBook G4 for $999.
Good luck. -
when i log on to the page i get kicked back to the log on screen every other mouse click.
== URL of affected sites ==
http:///s4.travian.us/dorf1.phpMy daughter has had her Razr for about 9 months now. About two weeks ago she picked up her phone in the morning on her way to school when she noticed two cracks, both starting at the camera lens. One goes completely to the bottom and the other goes sharply to the side. She has never dropped it and me and my husband went over it with a fine tooth comb. We looked under a magnifying glass and could no find any reason for the glass to crack. Not one ding, scratch or bang. Our daughter really takes good care of her stuff, but we still wanted to make sure before we sent it in for repairs. Well we did and we got a reply from Motorola with a picture of the cracks saying this was customer abuse and that it is not covered under warranty. Even though they did not find any physical damage to back it up. Well I e-mailed them back and told them I did a little research and found pages of people having the same problems. Well I did not hear from them until I received a notice from Fed Ex that they were sending the phone back. NOT FIXED!!! I went to look up why and guess what there is no case open any more for the phone. It has been wiped clean. I put in the RMA # it comes back not found, I put in the ID #, the SN# and all comes back not found. Yet a day earlier all the info was there. I know there is a lot more people like me and all of you, but they just don't want to be bothered so they pay to have it fix, just to have it do it again. Unless they have found the problem and only fixing it on a customer pay only set up. I am furious and will not be recommending this phone to anyone. And to think I was considering this phone for my next up grade! NOT!!!!
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Mixing 10.4 and 10.5 with Time Machine--not a good idea (?)
I'm planning on installing 10.5 (aka Leopard) in a separate partition to tweak and trial it until its ready for prime time for me (for one thing the new X11 isn't fully up to speed and that's a show stopper for my business use of Leopard).
It occurred to me that since Time Machine (TM) works off file system events in Leopard, it'd be wrong do most of my work in 10.4, occasionally using 10.5 and expect TM to record the changes made whilst working under 10.4.
It seems to me that TM will only "see" changes made under 10.5, not changes made under 10.4. If right (and I can't see why it'd be wrong), you can't mix 10.4, 10.5 and TM and get "sane" backups.
It'd follow, then that I should hold off using TM until running exclusively 10.5--?
Comments welcome. (No flames to Apple please!)
(PS: For techs--I'm simplifying the issue here I know! Trying to write something that's makes halfway sense for others too.)I believe those paragraphs on their own say that under Tiger, if an application stops "listening" to fs events for a long period of time as the fs events aren't logged and the application has to figure it out for itself, but this is a different time-frame and mechanism that I think TM works off. If you read on, the article will point out that a difference in Leopard is that there is now a log that can be scanned, which I imagine is what TM works off. However, that's only in Leopard, AFAIK.
What is being asked here is a bit more subtle (again, AFAICT!)-- does Leopard know of or learn changes that happened whilst it wasn't in control of the file system and go on to save these?
These can't come from the fs events directly, since there is no mechanism for Tiger to send these to a dormant Leopard that I've read of. There is apparently no fs event log in Tiger, so it can't come from that either. So my guess was that either (a) they'd just be missed or (b) the overall "last time/date modified" or someother file-system-as-a-whole time stamp or checksum is being used to identify that things weren't as they were last TM looked at that filesystem, therefore something must have happened in its absence. This seemed an open question to me... hence my question.
I agree it'd be easiest to just run a few simple tests. I just might wait until I get Leopard and do it myself...!
I wrote the post below before you wrote and forgot to post it, but for the **** of it here's what I wrote:
Maybe I'll have to wait until I installed Leopard and run a few simple tests myself (like the one I posted earlier). In the meantime if anyone does run a test, let us know the result!
gnaegi: I'm aware of how TM stores the data, but thanks for the link. It uses a variant on the hard-link sync approach used by rsync. I was more concerned how TM detects changes in its absence. So as far as I can tell the file system event tracking log file is only in Leopard (Note: the file system events are in Tiger, but AFAIK, not the file sytem event log file; I would like to think that TM works off the log file, not the raw events as Spotlight does. Certainly reading between the lines in Ars article would supports this idea. To my reading anyway )
Maybe you are looking for
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IPhoto 09 (Version 8.1.2) No longer exports after Mav Update
Hi Ive just downloaded and installed the latest Maverick update 10.9.2, since then i can no longer export my pictures from iphoto, it just crashes with an error report. My Mac came with Snow Leopard pre-installed and included iPhoto - its a late 2009
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I have tried to add ibooks to my iphone 5 and I was successful. But when I tried to import the same ibooks from itunes to my ipad 2. It showed up a messege asking me if I wanted to delete the exicting files on my ipad in order to add ibooks? How can
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How can i paste text from Numbers too Pages without getting the box/frames?
I have a big list in numbers with a lot of text in each line. I need to copy/paste it in to a pages document but i don't want the frames to come along.
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Can't Import Video into iMovie 08/09
Hey, I recently got an HD Camcorder and I had been able to use it to import movies from it to iMovie 08. However the other day I was not able to anymore. Now I open iMovie 08, it recognizes the camcorder, I select what I want to import and then I cli
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I needed to use a Jpeg camera original image (created in May 2008) in CS4 and viewed it with Bridge then tried Crtl-R to open it in Camera Raw. The image opened, all the control were there, I brightebed it up a bit and hit OPEN and ... hey - presto t