Is it worth to get a used macbook pro

hi, guys.
I am looking at a used macbook pro from early 2009 with configuration
2.66Ghz Core 2 Duo
8GB of DDR3 RAM (2x4GB)
500 GB SSD hard-drive [which advertisement said it was upgraded at Apple Store for 600 dollars]
Nvidia GeForce 9600M GT (512MB) and Nvidia GeForce 9400M (256MB)
17" Hi-Res Antiglare TFT active-matrix
1920 x 1200 Native Resolution
FaceTime HD Camera, Omnidirectional Mic
Slot-Loading SuperDrive
802.11n Wi-Fi, Bluetooth 2.1+EDR
Mac OS X 10.6.8
there's a dent on the right lower corner, which is acceptable.
the reason the guy sell it is that he got a new model.
why I plan to buy it is that I need to implment all kinds of programming stuff. I have a thinkpad with Ubuntu, but its wifi connection is very bad.
Mac is perfet for programmers.
New mac are pricing.
Any inputs will be appreciated. I want to konw
is it worth to invest a 4 years old macbook pro?
if i buy it, what should I check?
seller said 1000 dollars for the machine.
thanks

It's worth 4 to 500 dollars, none of the 'extras' (the HDD and the Ram) make it any more valuable.
How long it will last is speculative, I have a G4 portable that is 8 years old and works fine still, and I have seen Macs die when switched on for the first time so ....
Offer 400, 500 max, if it lasts a year it was expensive, 2 years it was a fair price, 3 years and you got a deal.
One more thing, as it was delivered new wth Leopard or Snow Leopard you must INSIST on receiving the original discs that accompanied it, they can not be downloaded and you will need them.

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The first thing you should do with a second-hand computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. How you do that depends on the model. Look it up on this page to see what version was originally installed.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc, which you can get from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller — not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. I suggest you install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for some MacBook Air models. If you don't have the media, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To boot from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then reboot and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should boot into Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
Once booted from the disc or in Internet Recovery, launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive — not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive, which is what you should do.
After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. When the installation is done, the system will automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
You should then run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. If you want to upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, buy it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the previous owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed — you have to repurchase them.
If the previous owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Apple customer service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able toauthorize it under your ID. In that case, contact iTunes Support.

Bought Used macbook pro, don't have administrator password and don't have the OS disc. Is there a way I can reset or delete the password?

I recently bought a used macbook pro. I can pretty much do everything I need on it until I want to change setting and such things. Then it asks me for an administrator password which I do not know or have. On top of that I do not have the OS disc either. Is there a way I can SAFELY reset or delete the password so I can set my own without the possibility of screwing thing up. LIke I said I can do most anything. I figured this out when attempting to tether it to my smartphone for internet access (I do all the time from my desktop but my desktop is a PC so things are a little different) I am a very new mac user, I have always been a devoted PC user until now. I have to say I am really loving my macbook pro I may just stick with mac from now on (if I can get this problem figured out without too much stress.
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Hi
There actually is a slightly easier way in OS X 10.5 or greater.
1. Start up in single-user mode (hold Command-S as the computer starts up).
2. Type: mount -uw /
3. Press Return.
4. Type this:
passwd (user's short name)
Replace "(user's short name)" with the short name of the user account whose password you wish to reset. If you are not sure what the account name is, you can get a list of user names by typing: ls /Users
5. Press Return.
6. Enter a new user password.
7. Press Return.
8. Type: reboot
9. Press Return.

I bought a used macbook pro with 10.9.5 but it didn't start up clean. There are a lot of programs etc. How do I know if it's ok to use?

I have a macbook pro that I want to give to my son for school. I just purchased a newer (used) macbook pro with more HD and memory to replace the one I use for work. I need to set up the new book and transfer all my stuff over, then clean the older one up for my Son. I'm concerned because the newer book I purchased on ebay. It didn't start up a if it were a clean machine. I turned it on and it is full of lots of programs and I'm worried the previous owners files and information are on the computer. They both have the OS X 10.9.5 (13F34) software.   I updated to the new iLife on the older one, the newer one has 09. I would appreciate the steps I should take. I have everything backed up on the older book through drop box and cloud, so I'm ready.   Also the seller told me the computer would have Mavericks already installed, but I don't see it.

Before buying a second-hand computer, you should have run Apple Diagnostics or the Apple Hardware Test, whichever is applicable.
The first thing to do after buying the computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. Changes made by Apple over the years have made this seemingly straightforward task very complex.
How you go about it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
It's unsafe, and may be unlawful, to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
1. If you don't own another Mac
a. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine is very old and has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
b. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for a MacBook Air. You should have received the media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To start up from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then restart the computer and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
c. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should start up in Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
d. Some 2010-2011 models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you can't reinstall 10.6 even from the original media, and Internet Recovery will not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
2. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to prepare a USB device, then start up the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can start from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
3. Partition and install OS X
a. If you see a lock screen when trying to start up from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
b. Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
c. An unusual problem may arise if all the following conditions apply:
          OS X 10.7 or later was installed by the previous owner
          The startup volume was encrypted with FileVault
          You're booted in Recovery mode (that is, not from a 10.6 installation disc)
In that case, you won't be able to unlock the volume or partition the drive without the FileVault password. Ask for guidance or see this discussion.
d. After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. If you're installing a version of OS X acquired from the App Store, you will need the Apple ID and password that you used. When the installation is done, the system will automatically restart into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
e. Run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the original owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed—you have to repurchase them.
4. Other issues
a. If the original owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're irrevocably linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
b. If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
c. When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a lifetime limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an iCloud account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information. The setup limit doesn't apply to Apple ID accounts used for other services, such as the iTunes and Mac App Stores, or iMessage. You can create as many of those accounts as you like.

HT1338 Purchased a used macbook pro with Mountain Lion. My old Mac runs Snow Leopard is backed up to Time machine. How do I register the operating system to me and how do I use Time Machine to move my files to the new used computer?

Purchased a used macbook pro with Mountain Lion. My old Mac runs Snow Leopard is backed up to Time machine. How do I register the operating system to me and how do I use Time Machine to move my files to the new used computer?

If you look at the User Tips tab, you will find a write up on just this subject:
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4053
The subject of buying/selling a Mac is quite complicated. Here is a guide to the steps involved. It is from the Seller's point of view, but easily read the other way too:
SELLING A MAC A
Internet Recovery, and Transferability of OS & iLife Apps
Selling an Old Mac:
• When selling an old Mac, the only OS that is legally transferable is the one that came preinstalled when the Mac was new. Selling a Mac with an upgraded OS isn't doing the new owner any favors. Attempting to do so will only result in headaches since the upgraded OS can't be registered by the new owner. If a clean install becomes necessary, they won't be able to do so and will be forced to install the original OS via Internet Recovery. Best to simply erase the drive and revert back to the original OS prior to selling any Mac.
• Additionally, upgrading the OS on a Mac you intend to sell means that you are leaving personally identifiable information on the Mac since the only way to upgrade the OS involves using your own AppleID to download the upgrade from the App Store. So there will be traces of your info and user account left behind. Again, best to erase the drive and revert to the original OS via Internet Recovery.
Internet Recovery:
• In the event that the OS has been upgraded to a newer version (i.e. Lion to Mountain Lion), Internet Recovery will offer the version of the OS that originally came with the Mac. So while booting to the Recovery Disk will show Mountain Lion as available for reinstall since that is the current version running, Internet Recovery, on the other hand, will only show Lion available since that was the OS shipped with that particular Mac.
• Though the Mac came with a particular version of Mac OS X, it appears that, when Internet Recovery is invoked, the most recent update of that version may be applied. (i.e. if the Mac originally came with 10.7.3, Internet Recovery may install a more recent update like 10.7.5)
iLife Apps:
• When the App Store is launched for the first time it will report that the iLife apps are available for the user to Accept under the Purchases section. The user will be required to enter their AppleID during the Acceptance process. From that point on the iLife apps will be tied to the AppleID used to Accept them. The user will be allowed to download the apps to other Macs they own if they wish using the same AppleID used to Accept them.
• Once Accepted on the new Mac, the iLife apps can not be transferred to any future owner when the Mac is sold. Attempting to use an AppleID after the apps have already been accepted using a different AppleID will result in the App Store reporting "These apps were already assigned to another Apple ID".
• It appears, however, that the iLife Apps do not automatically go to the first owner of the Mac. It's quite possible that the original owner, either by choice or neglect, never Accepted the iLife apps in the App Store. As a result, a future owner of the Mac may be able to successfully Accept the apps and retain them for themselves using their own AppleID. Bottom Line: Whoever Accepts the iLife apps first gets to keep them.
SELLING A MAC B
Follow these instructions step by step to prepare a Mac for sale:
Step One - Back up your data:
A. If you have any Virtual PCs shut them down. They cannot be in their "fast saved" state. They must be shut down from inside Windows.
B. Clone to an external drive using using Carbon Copy Cloner.
1. Open Carbon Copy Cloner.
2. Select the Source volume from the Select a source drop down menu on the left side.
3. Select the Destination volume from the Select a destination drop down menu on the right
side.
4. Click on the Clone button. If you are prompted about creating a clone of the Recovery HD be
sure to opt for that.
Destination means a freshly erased external backup drive. Source means the internal
startup drive.
Step Two - Prepare the machine for the new buyer:
1. De-authorize the computer in iTunes! De-authorize both iTunes and Audible accounts.
2, Remove any Open Firmware passwords or Firmware passwords.
3. Turn the brightness full up and volume nearly so.
4. Turn off File Vault, if enabled.
5. Disable iCloud, if enabled: See.What to do with iCloud before selling your computer
Step Three - Install a fresh OS:
A. Snow Leopard and earlier versions of OS X
1. Insert the original OS X install CD/DVD that came with your computer.
2. Restart the computer while holding down the C key to boot from the CD/DVD.
3. Select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu; repartition and reformat the internal hard drive.
Optionally, click on the Security button and set the Zero Data option to one-pass.
4. Install OS X.
5. Upon completion DO NOT restart the computer.
6. Shutdown the computer.
B. Lion and Mountain Lion (if pre-installed on the computer at purchase*)
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible because
it is three times faster than wireless.
1. Restart the computer while holding down the COMMAND and R keys until the Mac OS X
Utilities window appears.
2. Select Disk Utility from the Mac OS X Utilities window and click on the Continue button.
3. After DU loads select your startup volume (usually Macintosh HD) from the left side list. Click
on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
4. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Optionally, click on the Security button
and set the Zero Data option to one-pass.
5. Click on the Erase button and wait until the process has completed.
6. Quit DU and return to the Mac OS X Utilities window.
7. Select Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion and click on the Install button.
8. Upon completion shutdown the computer.
*If your computer came with Lion or Mountain Lion pre-installed then you are entitled to transfer your license once. If you purchased Lion or Mountain Lion from the App Store then you cannot transfer your license to another party. In the case of the latter you should install the original version of OS X that came with your computer. You need to repartition the hard drive as well as reformat it; this will assure that the Recovery HD partition is removed. See Step Three above. You may verify these requirements by reviewing your OS X Software License.

Should I Get an iMac, Macbook Pro, or iPad (3rd Generation))

I'm getting a new "computer" this summer, and I was wondering: Which Apple Device is right for me: iPad 3, iMac, or Macbook Pro? I realize WWDC is this summer (a day after I was planning on getting a Macbook Pro, June 10, which is my birthday) and Apple will be releasing/ unveiling their new products there. I realized that the iMac is more bang for your buck, but people are starting to lean towards portable devices, such as laptops over desktops, and tablets over laptops (mostly). I had planned to get a Macbook Pro (when the 2012 models come out) as of Sunday, April 22. But, as I realized that the prices for each are so different, considering their value, I realized this:
iMac:
"Land" - Locked
More Power for money (student discount)
Will last me longer (at least 2.5 years)
Macbook Pro:
Portable
Costs less (as of student discount)
iPad 3:
Even More Portable
Costs even Less.
Considering these, which do think I should get by the following:
Me:
Go upstate every once a month or so.
Going on vacation in the summer w/ family.
Do light gaming (Sims 3, Civ 5, Spore; not much)
Plan on bragging about being the only one in family w/ Mac (bring to relatives' houses to prove a point to my cousin that he's not the one w/ the coolest computer)
Lots of Word Processing (can use pages on iPad)
w/ iPad, I'll have more money to use on accessories (Step dad giving me $500 towards computer, I'll have $350 by June 10)
Mostly do web browsing.
Want to use in school (high school)
If I get an iPad, I can afford to upgrade it every year, but not the Macs
Will be reading lots of books next year (will be taking AP English)
Lots of notes next year (Doing Government in Social Studies next year)
Will use iTunes U if needed
Need something to fit in backpack if using in school.
Not sure if teacher will allow laptops/ tablets.
Mostly do my computing at home
So what do you think? Should I get an iMac, Macbook Pro, or an iPad 3? Thanks! Best answer gets 5 ***** for the long reading!

Wow, using computers in school. I remember when I went, teachers flipped out if you had as much as a cell phone
A couple things I would like to point out:
1.) WWDC /=/ product releases. While it is likely, no one knows for a fact what will happen at WWDC other than usual events. I would expect it, but don't jump the gun and say "a new Mac will be launched at WWDC", because they have been released before WWDC.
2.) The iPad is in a different tier than Mac, IMO. I believe iPads should be supplements to PC's, since if troubleshooting need occur, you must still have a PC to restore. (Mac is PC). So say if you suddenly go into Recovery mode, you will be stuck until you find a PC to restore to. One downfall of iOS devices, so for that reason, I will not recommend the iPad alone.
If you plan to do most of your computing at home, I would get the iMac. I am a college student, and plan on replacing my Macbook Pro (selling it) with an iMac if I can afford it. I agree with you on the "bang for your buck", but even then, iMac is still pricey. With $850, you're still shy $300 of the $1149 price w/education discount. If you want to upgrade your processor (which I would), that's even more $. Plus, software if you need it.
What exactly are you going to do with a Mac that you cannot do with a Windows PC (outside of just using the Mac OS)? The playing field is leveling out quite a bit. But, if you plan on developing of any sort, get a Mac.

What kind of external drive should I get for my macbook pro for backups etc

what kind of external drive should I get for my macbook pro for backups and storage

Hi, i have a Mercury Elite-AL Pro from OWC, www.otherworldcomputung.com
this is the one;
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/MEAQ7S1TB32M/
have had this for over two years, moved around a lot with the drive, ( to date ) no problems, they have good after sales support; give them a call if you need info.
There are a lot of drives out there as others here will let you know, there are good NAME drives but they also fail, POPULAR drives also fail, select the one you are happy with for your system and how you plan to use.
i suggest if $ is not a problem get a big drive you will find someting to put on it and is better.
hope this helps.

Installing OS on used Macbook pro

I just bought a used Macbook pro, It has no OS and no install discs. What is the best way to install OS? Contact Apple? Is there another option besides purchasing a new install disc? Thanks!

http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbookpro/stats/macbook_pro2.0.html
You have a 2.0 intel core duo. It originally came with Tiger OS 10.4 installed. Your options again are to contact Apple and get replacement disks or purchase Leopard OS 10.5.

I have a BTHub4 - My iMac, iPhone, and children's iPads all connect to the internet no problem. I cannot get my 2 MacBook Pros or my partners MacBook Air to connect. Have tried diagnostics - says to change DNS but it is correct.

I have a BTHub4 - My iMac, iPhone, and children's iPads all connect to the internet no problem. I cannot get my 2 MacBook Pros or my partners MacBook Air to connect. Have tried diagnostics - says to change DNS but it is correct. I have re-set both router and all laptops - no joy. They can all see the network but cannot connect.

This is extraordinary. I have moved the router and also tried resetting it to its factory strings. We have had this router for over a year and all our devices have always worked. Now all four laptops will not connect to the internet. Only one oMac and our phones and iPad.
I have had far more devices running at once before but now all laptops are timing out on connection. Some say this iIP address is already being used but if I manually set to a slightly different IP address it does not help, noir if I manually set to the correct IP address. Why would all our laptops (four) suddenly be unable to connect?

What Configuration should i get on the MACBOOK PRO???

my mom's birthday is coming soon and im throwing a surprise party for her. let me start off by saying im 16 years old but i am well aquainted with Mac and PC. I have been around computers since i was about 4. I LOVE THEM.
my mom is starting loans and she needs a laptop for her job. she has never used mac before as she has been around pc all her life.
one of the biggest reasons why i am getting her a macbook pro is because of BOOT CAMP. but at the same time i will do my best to introduce her to OSX. I feel she will pick it up fast.
I wanted some help on deciding how to build her computer.
i have come up with this:
1.83 ghz config w/ 512 ram on 1 slot
on the other slot i will add a 1 gb stick to total 1.5 gb.
(ive found better deals on ebay for memory than apple)
so it comes down to:
1.83GHz Intel Core Duo
1.5 gb RAM
80GB Serial ATA drive @ 5400 rpm
SuperDrive (DVD±RW/CD-RW)
AirPort Extreme Card & Bluetooth
Backlit Keyboard/Mac OS - U.S. English
15.4-inch TFT Display
please let me know what you think?
please let me know if i should also consider the 2.0 ghz also? is there a significant difference?
thanks a lot guys
iMac Intel 20 Inch Mac OS X (10.4.6)

If a whine and heat issues are the 'issues' that you're refering to, then I think that there are some more serious issues that could happen than this, and I haven't heard of them. Not everyone has these issues, and if they want to go ahead with a MBP, I say go for it! If their MBP has one or both of the issues, they know well enough to take it to an Apple Store (or wherever) and get it repaired/exchanghed/refunded. I think that the chances that they get a 'bad' MBP are rather slim. It's possible, but not certain. Those who post on these message boards have problems because, well, that's what these message boards are for. Again, I say go for it!

Which model of memory upgrade should I get for my MacBook Pro early 2011 model? I now have 2 - 2GB modules.

Which model of memory upgrade should I get for my MacBook Pro early 2011 model? I now have 2 - 2GB modules.

Installing RAM in a 2011-2012 MacBook Pro
There is really only one way to install RAM into a 2011-2012 MacBook Pro and while there are hundreds of DIY videos online, I just like this one, found on YouTube, by “macmixing”.
Note that there is a difference in the RAM that should be used in 2011 and 2012 models.
2011 models must use:
•204-pin PC-10600 (1333 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM
And 2012 models must use:
•204-pin PC3-12800 (1600 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM
So here's the video:
Remember that the 13", 15" and 17" 2011 models (early or late) and the 13" and 15" mid-2012 non-Retina models can handle 4GB, 8GB or (unofficially, but, believe me, it works) 16GB of RAM. There are, in my opinion, only two 100% Mac-compatible vendors out there: Crucial and OWC. I really can't recommend any other brands, even though it may work, as these are the only brands that I've personally used in quite a while. Also remember to stay away from any RAM that is a “value” brand - Macs are picky about RAM and often these value RAM modules just don’t work very well.
Good luck,
Clinton

Is it worth to get a used macbook pro

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