Is my HomeHub dead?

HomeHub used at home has been running satisfactorily for a year or two. It's the curvy one, version 2?
Suddenly, for no apparent reason, there are no lights at all. Have checked mains fuses, tried reset button, unplugging/reconnecting, and used mains socket OK for a table lamp. Phone works OK when connected directly.
In forlorn hopes, have even laboriously moved the HH2 to the bt master socket, and even changed microfilters and removed accelerator.
Any suggestions would be appreciated!

gooseboote wrote:
HomeHub used at home has been running satisfactorily for a year or two. It's the curvy one, version 2?
Suddenly, for no apparent reason, there are no lights at all. Have checked mains fuses, tried reset button, unplugging/reconnecting, and used mains socket OK for a table lamp. Phone works OK when connected directly.
In forlorn hopes, have even laboriously moved the HH2 to the bt master socket, and even changed microfilters and removed accelerator.
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Probably a failed power supply unit. If you look at the output voltage ratings it is possible to get similar plug top power units from places like Maplins.
If you have access to a voltmeter, you could see if there is any voltage at the terminals of the power unit.
There are some useful help pages here, for BT Broadband customers only, on my personal website.
BT Broadband customers - help with broadband, WiFi, networking, e-mail and phones.

Similar Messages

Bt homehub 2.0 phone suddenly dead !?!

the fone on my homehub has suddenly stopped working,all I get is unobtainable tone.
All other fones in the house are ok, have tried resetting the hub no joy.
I dont use bt broadband anymore is this the problem? surely the fone should still be ok.

Yep, I remember now
Turn it off - the phone light goes off on the hub - hub phone still works as a 'normal' phone for outgoing calls.
Tweak the settings to make the hub phone ring for landline calls - hub phone rings when dialled.
It's been such a long time since I used a HH2 with BBT. Things have moved on now - BBT on a mobile!, anyone
-+-No longer a forum member-+-

BT HomeHub 5 intercepting traffic on port 554 and ...

As the title says, my homehub appears to be intercepting packets on these two ports and, infuriatingly, is replying as the target resulting it as showing as open on all hosts. Does anyone have insight into why it would be doing this as well as how to disable this behevior.
C:\>tcptrace 75.27.30.143:7070
Tracing route to 75.27.30.143 [75-27-30-143.lightspeed.crmlin.sbcglobal.net] on
port 7070
Over a maximum of 30 hops.
1 2 ms 1 ms 2 ms 192.168.1.254 [BThomehub.home]
2 Destination Reached in 5 ms. Connection established to 75.27.30.143
Trace Complete.
C:\>tcptrace 75.27.30.143:554
Tracing route to 75.27.30.143 [75-27-30-143.lightspeed.crmlin.sbcglobal.net] on
port 554
Over a maximum of 30 hops.
1 2 ms 2 ms 2 ms 192.168.1.254 [BThomehub.home]
2 Destination Reached in 9 ms. Connection established to 75.27.30.143
Trace Complete.
This is expected behevior for a closed port.
http://pastebin.com/npXxS9b2

What is happening is there is either a crash or hang triggering a reset and the restart cannot occur due to a hung or dead handle to Port 554. The next time your server gets in that state, can you run a netstat -ano and see if a process tied to sghwdsptr.exe
is still listening on that port. Usually it is a hung dispatcher or its zombie which is why a restart will not work but a reboot. If you do find the process still active, you could try killing the process to see if you can restart without rebooting.
With regards to how it gets into this state - I would follow Nicke's advice with regards to the blog but also remember that RTSP (due to its ephemeral port usage) has a finite limitation. How many clients are checking in with this management server? Also
what are the average number of *applications* not packages being used by each one?
Steve Thomas, Senior Consultant, Microsoft
App-V/MED-V/SCVMM/Server App-V/MDOP/AppCompat
http://blogs.technet.com/gladiatormsft/
The App-V Team blog: http://blogs.technet.com/appv/
The MED-V Team Blog: http://blogs.technet.com/medv
The SCVMM Team blog: http://blogs.technet.com/scvmm/
“This posting is provided "AS IS" with no warranties, and confers no rights. User assumes all risks.”

Cannot dial using landline on my v1 Homehub Phone

First post here....
I'm having problems with my v1 Homehub phone (I think)
Scenaorio is as follows:
I can use my Broadband number to make calls without any issues.
However when press 5 to initiate the switch to landline the phone cuts out and goes completely dead and restarts. (ie display goes blank and phone clock resets to 12:00 etc)
I did move house 3 months ago and changed tel number so was wondering if the homehub was trying to access my old telephone number?? Is there a way I can check this?
Have logged onto the web page of the homehub but cannot seem to find anything that relates to this.
I do remember configuring the homehub to use my Broadband number as the default but can't seem to find that anywhere now. I cannot use BT software as I have since moved over from PC to Mac!
Any suggestions welcome
Solved!
Go to Solution.

If you only have one phone, then you will only need two AAA NiMH rechargable batteries anywher between 600 and 850 mAh. You can usually only buy a pack of four, typical price £5.99 from Argos.
If you have more than two hub phones, then its usually cheaper to buy larger quantities from Amazon.
If you are not near an Argos shop, then Amazon is your best option, as prices are similar.
There are some useful help pages here, for BT Broadband customers only, on my personal website.
BT Broadband customers - help with broadband, WiFi, networking, e-mail and phones.

Stuck: Need Disk repair but DVD drive dead and only have USB 1

[1 Ghz flat-panel iMac with USB 1 ports (no USB 2) and also Firewire 400]
I noticed a strange discrepancy (small but concerning) between the size of a folder on hard drive (folder of all mp3's with no subfolders) and the backup of the same folder on a mounted thumb drive.
(The size difference was not due to any invisible .DS_Store files and both folders are displayed in List view format.)
Disk Utility reports three things:
1. Incorrect number of thread records
2. Volume Bit Map needs minor repair
3. Checking volume information.
Volume free block count",0) [I might have mangled this line]
(It should be 13438611 instead of 13437937)
Here is the GOOD (but these are useless as explained under the "Bad"):
- I have a Tiger 10.4 boot DVD for a repair ==>but see below
- I also have a Disk Warrior disk (never used)
Here is the BAD:
- My built-in optical drive [Pioneer DVD-RW DVR-105] is -- I now discover - defunct and DEAD - it does not run the Tiger Boot DVD (in pristine shape).
- I bought an external SuperDrive (unopened) but I believe no boot from USB 1 is possible in PowerPC so a SuperDrive with USB 1 is useless.
Questions:
1.) Is there any way to boot from some external source (optical drive is DEAD) to run Disk Utility and/or Disk Warrior? -- I see none in this case! (gulp).
2.) More importantly (and this is my fundamental concern): Do the three Disk Utility hard drive issues constitute any direct threat to the integrity of my files?
I have almost everything backed up to duplicate thumb drives over these many months as standard practice.
Are these Disk Utility errors fully isolated to hard drive directory-keeping...or do these directory damage errors pose the possibility of mangling or harming my files or their metadata (filesize, etc.).
Put another way, when files are backed-up from a hard drive under the Disk Utility reports above, do they remain unharmed and undamaged by the situations reported by Disk Utility?
Thanks,
Bill

Jeff and Michael,
Thank you both for your generous and thoughtful input.
Michael: As I slept on it overnight, the exact same idea occurred to me of trying a Target Mode to the iMac from my Lion MacbookPro (I have it but stupidly have yet to use it much!).
I did buy a Firewire 800 (MBP) to Firewire 400 (iMac) adapter cable a few months ago!
CONCERN: Would there be potential compatibility issues or risks in running Lion 10.7's Disk Utility against the hard drive of the old OSX 10.4 iMac in Target Disk Mode?
==> Assuming an "it's ok" answer to the Target Disk question, would the majority of users agree that the Target Disk Mode would be more prudent than running:
fsck -fy in Single User Mode
I have never done fsck -fy before especially because I was under the impression there were issues with Journaled drived but from what I have read today...it looks ok to do)
Jeff: Can't thank you enough for the reference to the OTW DVD drive. I might first invest $10 in one of those DVD lens cleaner disks that I've read about. It's probably not the issue or else why would the drive read commercial Music cds perfectly well!
Thanks,
Bilil

New C310 - Wireless working FAIL - Printer's wireless network seems to be dead

Product: HP Photosmart Premium C310
OS: Windows Vista 64 bit and Windows 7 64 Bit
Error: Wireless working: FAIL
Changes: No changes since this is the first install of this printer ever
Description:
I've just unpacked my new C310 as a replacement for my older HP Inktjet 3845.
But when trying to install the wireless network everything I try seems to fail.
Printer doesn't detect my wireless network (blue wireless led is blinking 1sec on - 1sec off )
HP Network test tool on my laptop (standing next to the printer to test it's location ) gives no issues whatsoever, wireless network is strong and working very well.
Settings of the wifi connection are WPA security, no WPS, Channel 11, ... .
When I run a Wireless Network Test report from the printer menu, the result is (= printout)
* Wireless On => PASS
* Wireless Working => FAIL
* All the other points below are on status NOT RUN so no connection at all ...
Solutions tested:
Tried to reboot printer while waiting 1 minute in between => No result
Reset to factory settings straight on the printer => No result
Tried to run the Wireless network Setup Wizzard several times without merit.
Explanations on the forums seemed to be that this might be a faulty wireless network card in the printer?
Since this is one of the reasons of buying this item, I do need it to work.
Can anyone provide me advice/next steps?
Kind regards,
Raf

Great info and troubleshooting, thanks!
Unfortunately, I think you have a dead radio. This is how to contact HP support: www.hp.com/go/totalcare
Say thanks by clicking "Kudos" "thumbs up" in the post that helped you.
I am employed by HP

Saving the data from a dead library

So I've given up trying to rebuild my library (see here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=11544400&#11544400) and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on how I could extract the projects from an Aperture 3 library.
In an Aperture 2 library you could view the package contents and each project was bundled into a package along with all setting, versions, etc. This is not the case with A3. If you view the package contents of and A3 library everything is spread out. Masters, Projects, Folders and Version are separate from one another.
Any thoughts?
I've many of my projects backed up but recent work that consisted of a lot of image processing is now lost in the dead library.

I think I have recovered my library. I'm in the process of checking the projects to see if they are all intact.
Here is what I did:
1: Created a new empty library
2: Quit Aperture
3: Viewed the contents of the package of the new library and viewed the contents of the old damaged library
4: Moved the "Masters" folder from the old to the new library
5: Moved the "Aperture.aplib" folder from the old to the new library
6: Moved the "ApertureData.xml" file from the old to the new library
7: I then opened the "Database" folder in the old library and copied the following folders: "Albums", "Folders" and "Versions"
Everything else I left behind.
I then launched Aperture by doubleclicking on the new library while holding the Command and Alt keys and selected "Rebuild Library" from the Library First Aid panel.
Aperture then began processing all the content. 10900 images later Aperture launched showing all projects and images.
Looks good so far...

Creative Zen 32GB - Is it Dead?

Hi. I bought a Creative Zen 32gb Flash player in January 2009.
It was mostly OK for the first year or so. By then, it was almost full.
Last summer, it began crashing on me every so often. I assumed it was just because it was almost full, but as time went on it crashed more and more.
Sometimes it would play slightly garbled songs, almost like in the good old days when your cassette deck would chew up your D-90s.
When using the locking function, it would crash completely, requiring the judicious use of a pin to reset it.
Then it would crash when plugging it into headphones or the cable connecting to my AUX port on my car stereo.
The other day, it crashed and I thought - right, its been going a couple of years now, I'll back it up and then go into recovery mode, clean up the memory and then reboot, as recommended in the user guide. I tried backing up the player but it got about halfway through and crashed out.
I then thought to hell with it - I've got most of my music backed up anyway, and the clean up might not mess with it too much, so I tried to follow the cleanup instructions but everytime I let go of the Play button, it would crash out.
If I held the play button down, it would work, but the buttons are so close together, if I changed pressure on the play button while selecting "clean up", it would crash out. Still, I thought I'd managed it but it would not restart or dock, or pretty much do anything except let me go into recovery mode (while pressing Play, of course).
I then thought I'd just reformat the player - again, through the recovery menu since it would not dock with my PC (Win Vista, 32bit). That made no difference. It would not start, would not dock etc etc.
I then thought I would upgrade the firmware, downloaded it from Creative, and managed to get it to go so far, before it crashed out. And that's it - I can just about get it to start, sometimes, and then the screen will go black, or white, or red and black striped once. It will not dock at all. I can press reset as much as I like but the best I can get it to do is get to the recovery menu for a few seconds before crashing, or I can get it to display the Creative logo for a few seconds before, again, it crashes.
Its sat right now with a black screen and the blue light on. I cannot turn it off, or get any response from it at all.
So, is this now a dead mp3 player? Is it likely a hardware fault? If firmware/software, is there any way to fix this or should I just chalk this up to experience and accept that ?60 odd of mp3 player just isn't built to last very long?
And if its dead, what to replace it's I want Creative stuff to be better than it seems to be, and I am loathe to buy iPod. Sony? Wife has one and its fine, but not enough storage. Any recommendations?

Stormgeer wrote:
I've had my Zen32GB for a year and have loved it up to this morning. I added a few photos to it and now its been stuck in "Rebuilding" for the last two hours. I can dock it and get into it, copy files, etc, but it will not play. I have been using a handy pin to reset it, then it goes back into Rebuilding. It doesn't appear to be a hardware problem as the buttons were working fine. A lost cause?
On the recovery mode screen, can you try doing a CleanUp>Reboot?

How to I unauthorize iTunes on a Mac that no longer works, it's dead.

I had a G3 that sadly, is dead and living with Jesus now. The mother board is dead on it. A Mac friend of mine was able to get all my data, including all my iTunes music and videos off the dead G3 and migrate onto a used G5 that I bought from a mutual friend of ours, so when I logged onto the G5 that I just bought, I had to authorize it for iTunes, but my problem is my old dead G3 is still authorized for iTunes, but it won't even boot up any more. It's unusable. How do I unauthorize iTunes on that old G3? I don't want of my five authorizations being wasted on a machine that doesn't even work. Any suggestions?

Click here for information, or fill out this form.
(35361)

Dead keys in keyboard no longer working

I use "us-acentos" keymap and since 2014-09-24 upgrade the dead keys are no longer working: typing apostrophe followed by "e" should print "é" but instead it just prints the apostrophe.
This under X both in bash and in a graphical editor such as leafpad, geany, netbeans. In a non-X session the dead keys do not work either, an apostrophe followed by "e" will just display a space.
Would anyone have any suggestion as to why this happened and how to correct it? Thank you.
Output of locale-ctl status:
System locale: LANG=fr_CA.UTF-8;
VC Keymap: us-acentos;
X11 Layout: n/a.
Output of pacman.log:
[2014-09-24 16:59] [PACMAN] starting full system upgrade
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded bash (4.3.024-1 -> 4.3.024-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] installed ca-certificates-utils (20140325-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] installed ca-certificates-mozilla (3.17-3)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] installed ca-certificates-cacert (20140824-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded ca-certificates (20140325-1 -> 20140325-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded efivar (0.10.8.g81d0146-1 -> 0.11-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded efibootmgr (0.7.0.16.g099e110-1 -> 0.8.0-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded rtmpdump (20131205-1 -> 20140918-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded libx264 (1:142.20140826-1 -> 1:142.20140826-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded ffmpeg (1:2.3.3-2 -> 1:2.4.1-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded nspr (4.10.6-1 -> 4.10.7-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded nss (3.16.3-1 -> 3.17-3)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded firefox (32.0.1-1 -> 32.0.2-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded firefox-i18n-fr (32.0.1-1 -> 32.0.2-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded gegl (0.2.0-11 -> 0.2.0-12)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded gstreamer (1.4.1-1 -> 1.4.2-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded gst-plugins-base-libs (1.4.1-1 -> 1.4.2-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded gst-plugins-base (1.4.1-1 -> 1.4.2-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded k3b (2.0.2-9 -> 2.0.2-10)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded libgpg-error (1.14-1 -> 1.16-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded libtirpc (0.2.4-1 -> 0.2.5-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded xine-lib (1.2.6-1 -> 1.2.6-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded opencv (2.4.9-4 -> 2.4.9-5)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded openresolv (3.5.7-1 -> 3.5.7-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded openscenegraph (3.2.1-1 -> 3.2.1-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded perl (5.20.0-5 -> 5.20.1-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded python2 (2.7.8-1 -> 2.7.8-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded x264 (1:142.20140826-1 -> 1:142.20140826-2)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded xorg-server-common (1.16.0-6 -> 1.16.1-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded xorg-server (1.16.0-6 -> 1.16.1-1)
[2014-09-24 17:03] [PACMAN] upgraded xz (5.0.6-1 -> 5.0.7-1)

Follow-up:
1) I could restore the keyboard in X with this command:
$ localectl set-x11-keymap us pc104 alt-intl
which creates /etc/X11/xorg.conf.d/00-keyboard.conf:
Section "InputClass"
Identifier "system-keyboard"
MatchIsKeyboard "on"
Option "XkbLayout" "us"
Option "XkbModel" "pc105"
Option "XkbVariant" "intl"
Option "XkbOptions" "terminate:ctrl_alt_bksp"
EndSection
another option that worked was to rename /etc/X11/xorg.conf.d/10-evdev.conf.pacsave to /etc/X11/xorg.conf.d/10-evdev.conf, which also contained the "XkbLayout" and "XkbVariant" lines under "InputClass" (the original file had been renamed to .pacsave in February 2013). See wiki:
https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Ke … on_in_Xorg
The output from localectl status now reads:
System Locale: LANG=fr_CA.UTF-8
VC Keymap: us-acentos
X11 Layout: us
X11 Model: pc105
X11 Variant: intl
X11 Options: terminate:ctrl_alt_bksp
So it seems that the result of an earlier upgrade was to "unset" the keyboard for X (compare with output from localectl status in original post). Why?
2) the keyboard in console (out of X) is still not working. If I try to set it to "us-alt-intl" in /etc/vconsole.conf, it works as "us" should (no dead keys); it I use "us-acentos" some keys do not work. locale-ctl shows that "us-acentos" does exist (but not "us-alt-intl").
Mystery.

Hi, my MacBook Air is not working anymore if it's not connected with the power cable. It's pretty new so I can't imagine that the battery is dead already. Why can't I use my MacBook Air without the power cable even though I charged it for hours?

Hi, my MacBook Air is not working anymore if it's not connected with the power cable. It's pretty new so I can't imagine that the battery is dead already. Why can't I use my MacBook Air without the power cable even though I charged it for hours?

Please take the Mac to Apple store to have it checked out.
Genius Bar reservation
http://www.apple.com/retail/geniusbar/
Best.

Recovery From A Dead Drive!

Hi.
My Pavilion dv7-6b51ea (QG732EA), Windows 7 Home Premium (64-bit), BIOS F.1C started giving me a SMART disk warning this was followed shortly after by a decrease in performance (20-30 min to boot to desktop) and this was shortly followed by a blue screen with failure notifications, in short a dead hard drive.
I took heed of the warnings and manually removed the little data I keep on the C: drive, although I didn't get as far as backing it up as the warnings suggested due to the zx spectrum like performance.
I also acquired a Intel 520 series, 480 GB SSD to replace it's Toshiba HDD with.
My conundrum now is how best to proceed with installing the SSD.
I have somewhere, in a safe place, the recovery discs created on the initial install although at the time of writing I can't remember where the safe place is!.
Option 2 I believe would be to use Intel's data migration software, providing I can get the 1TB Toshiba HDD to come back to life?.
Although would these 2 options not leave me with a OS set up for a HDD on a SSD?.
My other option I believe would be to do a "clean install" from a windows 7 SP1 ISO.
This is the option I leaning towards.
If I understand correctly from the research I was able to do prior to my HDD's demise if I take this route windows will install itself making the necessary settings for use with a SSD, although I can't see a setting in the BIOS to enable AHCI, I believe AHCI is enabled by default in an HP bios?.
Also If I understand correctly I can during the beginning of the install create a D: RECOVERY partition giving me a C: for the OS, the aforementioned D: for recovery and the System Reserved Partition as my dv7 was set up prior to this, it also had HP_TOOLs partition which would be created with the install of HP UEFI Support Environment I believe.
Would this then allow me to use HP Recovery Management as before (ie. via hotkeys etc.)?, if not I think I also have a copy of the SWSetup folder somewhere could I extract the necessary files from there?.
I would like my recovery to contain a copy of windows + updates to this date if this is possiable leaving me to install the HP components I require after, in the case of a windows failiure (I would prefer this option as after 3 years of use I still could not rid the system of some OEM components, Magic Desktop in particular, and a trial version of Norton Internet Security which recently reapeared in place of the Norton subscription after letting Intel's driver update utility update the chipset and network drivers).
Any advice is greatly apreciated.
Many thanks.
Grant.

Thanks for the swift response Huffer.
Sorry mine's delayed, I'm sharing computer time with my nephews on my sisters laptop at the moment.
Also please excuse my ignorance as I've not delt with any hardware issues for over 10 years so this has been a steep relearning curve and I'm new to SSD's and have no experiance of RAID, I think and I've done to much reading in to short a amount of time and confussed myself a bit.
Since my initial post I've cautiously coaxed my dv7 back to life and found the recovery discs although both are probably redundant now as I've also aquired a Windows 7 .iso.
I've been back in the BIOS and can not find any drive mode settings, device manager has the Intel Mobile Express Chipset SATA AHCI Controller controlling my HDD & BD ROM and Intel Rapid Storage Technology is installed although I'm unsure if either of these are an indication of whether I'm configured for AHCI or RAID?.
Is there a easy way of telling which it is? as the Intel RAID driver you directed me to says "The driver should be installed after the operating system has been installed. F6 and RAID BIOS configurations need to be performed prior to installation of this driver for proper operation".
Will windows not install basic drivers to get me up and running?
You asked "Do you have an mSSD accelerator cache drive?", I'm presuming you mean on the Toshiba drive, I can find no mention of this in the dv7 specs or on the Toshiba MK1059GSM specs.
I'm half tempted to try a "suck it and see" approach but would prefer to get things right during install if I can!.
To this end would I be better off creating a D: RECOVERY partition during Install or wiil HP software do this for me when added later, I remember reading somewhere systems can sometimes be a bit particular with regards to a recovery partition?.
Once again many thanks.
Grant.

Official PlayBook OS v2.0.1.668 Announcement and Breathing Life back into a Dead Battery

Where is it?!
Well, you can go to the software update page and discover that the only thing RIM indicates the update does is provide a security update for the Adobe Flash player,
http://ca.blackberry.com/support/tablets/playbook/software-updates.html
The details can be found here.
http://btsc.webapps.blackberry.com/btsc/viewdocument.do?externalId=KB31675&sliceId=1&cmd=displayKC&d...
That said, it would appear speculation related to wifi and browser improvements (among other things) is very subjective and likely as varied as individual user experience. Here’s a quote from a Crackberry News & Rumours Post
http://crackberry.com/whats-new-playbook-os-201668
Frankly, this sort of commentary drives me crazy. What company would make the kind of improvements identified above without documenting them for their existing and future customers, if they were real. Is it that we're all so desperate for good news from RIM that we have to make it up? If anyone can find anything official behind the article's claims, feel free to post a link in response.
A couple things do still confuse me though. Some users are claiming that the new OS v2.0.1.668 version has been pulled. My Playbook upgraded to this update without any issue on the first try. Didn't take hours and the whole process seemed quite normal. Smooth as molasses.
Didn't notice anything weird at all until last evening, a few days after the upgrade. I pulled off the charger cable and looked at the battery and it was 0%, dead as a door nail. Perhaps the magnetic head of the fast charger wasn't seated properly. I turned off the Playbook and then attached the fast charger. Left it alone and went back about an hour later and it was still at 0%! It was acting like it was still losing charge and getting weaker. This is not typically the case, so I shut down wifi, turned off backlighting, put it into airplane mode and tried again. No change when I checked back later. At some points, I couldn't even get it to boot to the main screen, just battery empty symbol, at best.
I read on this and other forums how others were having problems after teh update. Erasing their Playbook and reloading OS. I couldn't even do that, because the Playbook has to have enough power to update the software through the Desktop. While I could connect and see the device via Desktop, there wasn't enough juice to do anything at 0%. It seemed that there were folks holding the battery button for 10-20 seconds claiming that worked, but it didn't do anything for me.
To say the least, I was getting pretty ticked off after reading the forum and discovering that the battery issue I was dealing with might be related to a pulled OS upgrade that had screwed my Playbook. Proper QA and testing should preventthis sort of blunder. Even more ticked, if the update has been pulled and RIM has not made any official statement that I can find to that effect! If they have pulled it (which I still haven't been able to personally confirm), this information should be publically available and explained. The one thing they need to do is look after any loyal customers they still have left. Personally, I have loved my playbook, although RIM has definitely botched a great piece of hardware with inadequate software enhancements to the OS, that continues to this day. The fact that we still can't categorize browser favorites in folders at this point is inexcusable. Anyway, I digress.
Back to the battery. Here's what I did after about two hours of snarling and becoming increasingly frustrated with my dead playbook and not being able to find any way to breathe life back into it. I remembered what happens to my rechargeable batteries for my xbox controllers when they drain dead. They simply won't charge. They become un-rechargeable. I eventually figured out via an obscure internet posting, what no retail clerk or xbox support person seemed to know. I returned more than my share of brand new unrechargeable batteries, because they wouldn't charge when drained. This is what I discovered. You take the dead controller with battery and connect it to the charging cable. It lights red... but after 13 seconds it goes green. If you leave it connected it simply will not charge. Originally, I concluded I had a faulty battery that would not recharge. Not so. You must pull the cable off. Light goes out, connect it again. Light goes red, 13 seconds turns green. Pull the cable off. Light goes out, connect it again. Light goes red, 13 seconds turns green. Pull the cable off. Light goes out, connect it again. Light goes red, 13 seconds turns green. Pull the cable off. Repeat until you figure there is no point to this exercise, and then do it one more time. Pull the cable off. Light goes out, connect it again. Light goes red, 13 seconds later it stays red and doesn't go green, it stays red. Might be the 5th try, 20th try, 30th try, who knows, but eventually the xbox controller light will actually stay red and not switch to green and will then recharge. It's almost like each previous failed connection provides a bit more juice to the battery, until it has enough to finally be rechargeable again. Come back in a couple hours and what appeared to be an unrechargeable battery is fully charged.
So I took my Playbook, Turned it off. Connected cable. Light turned red, then turned green. Disconnected cable. Held power button to shut playbook off. Connected cable. Light turned red, then turned green. Disconnected cable. Held power button to shut playbook off. Connected cable. Light turned red, then turned green. Disconnected cable. Held power button to shut playbook off. Connected cable. Light turned red, then turned green. Disconnected cable. Held power button to shut playbook off. Not sure how many times I went through this painful exercise. Maybe 15-20. Maybe I only needed to do it 5 or 10times. Maybe I didn't need to do it at all.
Frankly, in the course of doing it, it seemed like I was almost draining the battery more. I think there was a point where it almost was dead and wouldn't even light up. That had me spooked. By pressing and holding the on button and connecting the cable, I somehow got the red light to come on, then switch to green and it began pulsating. At this point, I didn't want to push my luck. Left it alone and went to bed. Got up this morning and it was alive and 100% charged. It went into an automatic reboot. The wifi password had to be re-entered and saved in order to get connected back to the internet, but everything else seemed to be fine.
I’ve used it solid for one hour and the battery dropped to 80%. This felt like a much faster drop than in the past. It's been in standby mode for an additional two and a half hours since and it is now at 60%. I never shut my PlayBook off. I keep mine in standby all day, with the screen on lowest brightness and wifi typically on. Do I think that the latest update has had an impact on battery life? Well, my Playbook originally died and ran out of charge, when I had it attached to the fast charger! Can't explain that right now. I suppose I could have improperly connected via the magnet and this was my own user error. Could be just coincidental that this happened to me after the update and at the same time others are complaining about battery issues. Personally, it does “feel” like my Playbook is draining faster in standby mode than it has in the past. I have my eye on this and if it goes dead again, I'll repost. Obviously, my recharging "technique" worked for me, so if it helps breathe life back into your battery dead playbook, I'd be interested to know.
If RIM has actually pulled the update and not updated their own web site to reflect a battery issue and not officially disclosed a known problem to their customers it would be at best totally unprofessional and at worst inexcusable. I'm still not sure what to make of everyone's comments and issues, when RIM still lists the v2.0.1.668 update on their corporate page.
gRIMace
Solved!
Go to Solution.

RIM exec Michael Clewley confirm that 668 was pulled because it has upgrading issues with Playbook with OS 1.0.7 --- and that is the ONLY reason why it was pulled.
http://twitter.com/michaelclewley

CD/DVD Drive Dead

Hey everyone,
My CD/DVD Drive is dead. Trying to reinstall the OS 10.6.
My Drive is dead, takes the disk, makes lots of grinding, and does nothing but spit it out. May have recognized it once out of 20 times, but failed during the install.
I thought about using the Remote Install OSX like you would for a MacBook Air, but it seems that the Mini doesn't have the options for WiFi or network when booting holding option on the Mini so that seems to be out.
Anyone have any experience with this? I was thinking that I could use an External USB DVD Drive to install the OS. Does anyone know if that would work?

The drive itself seems to be dead, Doesn't read any CD / DVD's
I haven't tried using a Laser Lens cleaner, usually those are not recommended for Slot load drives, I have also not tried using Compressed Air to blow into the slot.
It would be much more useful to me to have a USB External CD/DVD drive, as I could use that with any of the computers here. I'm just wondering if anyone knows it the Mini would be able to Boot / Install from an external USB Drive.

New T530 with dead / unresponsive pixel in upper middle of screen

I have one dead or unresponsive pixel in the upper middle part of the screen. It is stuck in red color. It is very difficult to ignore this red dot and it is very annoying to use my machine with this red dot on the screen. What can I do?
I ordered my T530 on July 27th and received it on Aug 20th. I've used it for two days and used UDpixel or similar online tools in attempt to unstuck this red pixel. The pixel is still stuck in red. What can I do about this? Need help. I need to use my laptop for school.
Thanks.
Processor
Intel Core i5-3210M
Operating system
Windows 7 Home Premium 64
Operating system Language
Win7 HP64 English
Total memory
4 GB PC3-12800 DDR3 (1 DIMM)
Hard drive
320GB HDD 7200rpm
Optical device
DVD Recordable, UBE w/SWR
Battery
6cell LI Battery TWL70+
Bluetooth
NONE
WiFi wireless LAN adapters
Intel Centrino Advanced-N 6205
Wireless WAN accessories
Mobile Broadband upgradable
Warranty Type
1 Year Depot/Express Warranty
Custom images
NONE
AC Adapter and Power Cord
90W AC Adpt US (2pin)
Accessible Optimized Preload
NONE
Adobe Elements
NONE
Camera
TW530 720p HD Camera Mic
Color Sensor
TW530 No Color Sensor
Custom Image Language
NONE
Display Panel
TW530 15.6HD+ Anti-Glare, WWAN
Keyboard Language
KYB (Backlit) US English
Microsoft Office
NONE
Microsoft Windows 7 XP Mode
NONE
Pointing device
TW530 UNav w/ FPR
Protection Services
NONE
Publication Language
Pub; US English
Reserved Char 1
NONE
SIM Card for WWAN 2
NONE
Security Chip 2
Security Chip Enabled
Shipping Country
USA
Software Application
NONE
Storage Adapter
16GB Micro SSD SATA3
System Unit
T530 NVIDIA Optimus with 1GB
System expansion slots
TW530 Exp CS & 4-1 CR
Windows 7 Recovery DVD
NONE
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hey Hiplease,
If you computer is under warranty which if your dates are this year then there is a good chance you can get it sent in for repair.
Here is a link that you could read about LCD replacement:
http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/detail.page?LegacyDocID=MIGR-69856
Here are the service number you can call:
http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/feedback/detail.page?LegacyDocID=MIGR-76613
If you have any other questions please post back and we will be more then happy to help.
Best Regards,
Hiro
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