"is not" doesn't work at all

I'm using iphoto 6.0.4 on OS/X 10.4.7 and have a library of ~8000 photos
mixed with film scans and digital captures. I'm trying to make separate
smart albums for film and digital...
smart albums by camera model and file name work great, but excluding
items doesn't work i.e.:
I created a smart album with "Camera model" (EOS 5D/EOS 10D) "is not"
and Filename "does not contain" (MG/IMG_/CRW)
my film scans do not contain any of that information
"match any" is active
this should show any non-digital photo in my smart album...
but iPhoto doesn't seem to work with the "is not" in the camera field
or with "does not contain" in the filename
any ideas?
Mark

doxx:
Welcome to the Apple Discussions. I'm able to use the "is not" search criteria in Smart Albums. Have you tried using just the Camera is not xxxx without the File Name criteria.
Do you Twango?

Similar Messages

X-fi Extreme Gamers not in IRQ list, doesn't work at all.

9X-fi Extreme Gamers not in IRQ list, doesn't work at all.O Lo mates,
my specs:
Intel C2D E8500
Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3R
Club3D ATi 4870 52MB
2GB OCZ
2 WD Raptors connected to onboard raid controller
X-Fi in PCI slot
my problem:
The X-fi isn't working as it should. It's not getting detected in bios / POST so it can ofcourse not be working in any OS (currently running Win7 7068
I used to own a AMD 2500 / Asus A7N8X-E deluxe, and it used to work, but when I upgraded to a C2D E6600 / DFI Infinity it only showed up 3 times in my IRQ list / OS. This ofcourse is to blame to Creative, because they dont care about the PCI standard and didn't implement IRQ resource sharing in the Extreme Gamer card. After upgrading to my current setup (listed above) it's still not working at all, even though I tried disabling all onboard devices I dont use, and manually mapped IRQ channels to the PCI ports so they wouldnt share.
The X-fi is fine, I recently put it in another pc with another brand motherboard, and it was detected instantly. Guess the guy who owns that pc had some luck with his motherboard don't feeling the need to share IRQ's at that particulair moment... its like Russian roulette.
Is there anything i can do to get the soundcard to work even though it doesn't implement the PCI standards and therefore in my opinion failed as a soundcard and as a brand as a whole?
Greats,
eXistenZ
Message Edited by existenZNL on 06-24-2009 02:34 PMMessage Edited by existenZNL on 06-24-2009 02:35 [email protected]

= Hey mate:
Havent seen your exact bios, but if you have a setting in it, called? reset [color="#000080" size="3">Extended System Configuration Data.
Then that might shuffle your bios, per se and then let that card be redetected. I used to use that on my systems when swapping one single part in order to get all the IRQs to shuffle around again, and give one to my card. Do you remember when the magic number to give to your Creative card was IRQ 5, DMA Low of , DMA High of 5, address of 220 and port of 330? Well that is how I used to get my system to shuffle my printer ports and modems in order to bump that sound card to get the correct addresses. Also check to see if the edges of your sound card are blackened. Wipe them with your fingers and see if there is an ashy burned residue. This will tell you if that card has been electrically damaged, or oily/dirty. Also the backlplates on some sound cards are slightly bent and your sound card will fit into its slot, but not all the way. A hair off and that card will be picked by your system every couple of boots.
Try this and let me know how it goes for you.

My new iPhone 4 doesn't work at all

You are definitely not alone with your issues. I'm on my second iPhone 4 unit, and am still having the same problems. I've had proximity sensor insanity, battery draining after 8 hours of stand-by (NO USE, just sleeping) to the point that my phone goes into a coma and has to be plugged in to be revived, the grip of death dropping calls....
But the single most irritating and infuriating problem is the signal strength/reception fluctuation. I share a house with two iPhone 3Gs users, and I had an original silverback iphone until July 2010. They all work fantastically well with no issues when I'm at home (where I am just about 24/7, since I work from home). *_My new iPhone 4 doesn't work at all.*_. Signal strength is all over the place. I did a test where I sat watching the bars showing signal strength for five minutes. In that time, I saw it switch from E (edge?) with full bars to 3G with full bars to 3G with 1 bar to 2 bars to 4 bars to 1 bar to "Searching." Then back to 3G, with degradation of bars from 3 to none, then E network appears again, this time with full strength. This all with the phone sitting on a table, not being touched by human hands.
It seems that my iPhone is constantly switching actual physical networks, and as a result signal strength is all over the place from one 30 second period of time to the next. This drains the battery like crazy, and means that all incoming calls go to voicemail--usually without my phone ever ringing.
The 3G phones in my house work great. The 1st G iPhone I have had since the week it came out worked great (though its battery doesn't hold much of a charge anymore, after three years). On my new IP4, games are awesome. The videos and photos are amazingly clear and high quality, and editing on the phone is out of sight. iPhone Apps rule. MobileMe syncs my contacts quickly and easy. The only thing I love more than the iP4 features is my iPad--it rocks.
Everything works on my IP4 at home BUT THE ACTUAL TELEPHONE FUNCTIONS. This is unacceptable. In late August, after two weeks in which I had 4 minutes of phone use, the nice folks at the Apple store switched me to a new phone, no questions asked. The phone worked so much better, I could send texts and place calls most of the time (this was now the first part of September)...except that now that I was using my IP4 to make phone calls, I started having a problem with the proximity sensor during those calls. I'd be talking and my cheek would mute the phone, turn on speaker, open contacts and edit info (with gobbledygook), and of course, hang up on people.
So around Sept. 18 I was told by Apple phone support to update to iOS 4.2, restore as new, and do two complete power up and drain down cycles. This would fix the proximity sensor and any other issues.
Well, I would love to see if iOS 4.2 actually did fix the PS, but I can't get the signal strength to stabilize long enough to have an actual phone conversation. I'm back to watching the signal strength go up and down at random (with me touching/holding it carefully to avoid grip of death, and also when I leave phone on the table with screen lock off --no touching). It is back to switching between E network and 3G and varying strengths of wi-fi from my home network. This eats up battery from 100% to low enough to turn off in under 10 hours of standby (usually 6-7). Essentially, my IP4 is back to being unusable as a phone.
So I did another long, involved call to Apple tech support on 9/18. They tell me that I have to turn off wi-fi, turn off 3G, turn off push/fetch and notifications, shut all apps (no multi-tasking) and do everything but switch my phone to airplane mode--and see if the battery holds up for 24 hours in standby. If that didn't work, I should restore from new, but not load any contacts or network or data or anything--just leave it as it would be out of the box new.
As a test, I turned everything off as advised: 3G, wi-fi, push, etc. Now my battery life is back to normal, where I can have the IP4 on stand-by for up to two full days before needing a recharge. Fabulous. BUT IT'S NOT A SMART PHONE if I have to turn off 3G, turn off wireless, and not use email push and so forth.
I'm so frustrated I could scream. I'm quickly coming to the conclusion that there is a significant flaw in the new iPhone. Or perhaps it is just an issue for iPhone 4 users in areas where the signal strength is marginal, or where there are two types of overlapping network coverage (E and 3G in my case). I know that the networks themselves are in good condition--though I'm in a semi-rural area, the state capital is 4 miles away, and I know they have a new tower and good coverage for the politicians and power brokers around town. The phone coverage area I live in has Edge network in the south part of the network area and 3G in the north part, which is the state capital. I'm right in between. Could this be the problem? AT&T says no, it's Apple's fault.
Message was edited by: HighSierra

So what to do besides complain? Troubleshoot?
I just wonder if all of us who have had chronic signal strength and "Searching for network" issues that totally drain the battery might have something in common, despite being all over the world? I'm using wi-fi 95% of the time, and live in a semi-rural area with overlapping networks run by same carrier. Apple folks hinted that maybe in my area the network usage is nearing capacity (resulting in getting kicked off of 3G and down to E as new calls are placed that strain capacity). They also hinted there could be interference from mountains or other objects. But here's the thing--3G phones work fine, and my IP4 works fine when I'm away from home, usually in the capital city on strong 3G network. (When I say "works fine I mean the signal is good and calls go through, I haven't tested battery drain away from home yet).
I have to conclude that the problem is the IP4 itself--something about the hardware or the software (namely, the way it connects to the phone network) is horribly wrong. Other folks who live in urban areas or with strong networks that (likely) aren't over-utilized don't seem to have this issue. After reading through these pages, it also seems the wi-fi may be a major culprit in draining the battery and in varying signal strength (this is from Apple phone support, which said that varying signal strength and the constant pinging off the home wi-fi is creating a "power struggle" and keeping the phone constantly looking for the best connection option). Mind you, 3G iphones on the same home network have no problems whatsoever.
So while I'm not a technical expert, it seems like the problem HAS to lie in the differences in the way the IP4 connects to the cellular and/or wi-fi network. And since the connection/signal strength problem was "resolved" on my replacement phone, but then "broken" again by the software update of iOS 4.2, I'm leaning toward this being a software issue. I've offered to help Apple troubleshoot, and I'm trying to be patient--because the IP4 is a work of art and I've never had an issue with an Apple product before. But all they want me to do is restore, restore, reload, restore, and then drive 1 hour to the nearest Apple store (in Reno, NV) and get a new phone...and start the whole process over again. I don't have time for this, I need my phone back.
I'm this close to trading in my beautiful but flawed IP4 for a 3G. Maybe I should just get a new battery for my original iPhone from 2007?
I understand that Apple can't test for every possible variable of use all over the world, but they don't even seem to acknowledge that they have a problem with the IP4 that will not be resolved by replacing it with a new unit. They want me to believe it's a fluke, or it's just me...but I've been combing these threads and see a lot of people reporting the same issues I am--battery drain and wildly fluctuating signal strength issues, wi-fi problems, and dropped calls. Can't someone get on this? Because otherwise Apple is going to have to admit that their IP4 is not a good solution for people who live in areas of less than perfect signal strength or use wifi or whatever demonic combo I have in my home/work setting.
Or people will have to do what I have done--if you who want the cool IP4 non-phone features, you will have to dumb down your IP4 in order to have it be even moderately useful as *a phone.* For $599 I expected better.
My (temporary) workaround?
To spare the battery:
*Turn off wi-fi (which *****, because now I have to burn minutes when I'm at work using the email, downloads, safari, etc--and it's E network, so it's SLLOOOOOOOW)
*turn off push and fetch, have mail get new messages manually
*turn off data roaming
To keep the signal somewhat stable (making it easier to complete calls and spare battery)
*Turn off 3G (this leaves me on E network--fabulous, I had that with my 3 year old iPhone)
*grip IP4 between two fingers placed at the top of the phone, away from death zone. Tough for us lefty phone users.
*pray the free bumper will a) come soon and b) help. I'm not optimistic.
To keep proximity sensor from going nuts and dropping calls, muting, turning on speaker etc:
*use headset or bluetooth (unless you are also having one of the known bluetooth issues!)
*keep phone pressed to one ear and don't move it a millimeter. Don't shift sides, don't hold phone with your shoulder, just keep it to one ear and talk fast).
I'm about out of patience. I understand that lots of folks have and love their IP4s. I'd love to be one of those people. I'm open to suggestions and have spent many hours on phone with tech support, restoring my phone, reloading data and apps--there has to be a better way.
Sorry for the thread-jacking, but someone from Apple has got to be following these threads--help us!
null

HI, I just got a Macbook Pro. It's great but my mail doesn't work at all. It will come up correctly, but take forever to download messages, then won't delete them, then won't save them to folders. Then when I go to quit mail it's like it gets stuck.

HI, I just got a Macbook Pro. It's great but my mail doesn't work at all. It will come up correctly, but take forever to download messages, then won't delete them, then won't save them to folders. Then when I go to quit mail it's like it gets stuck between quitting and not. I have to force quit, then restart my computer if I want to pull up my mail again. How can I fix this?

If you just got your new MBP you have phone support from Apple (which is quite good) call them. 800-692-7753 tell the automated answerer "mail technical support" you'll have human quite quickly. Hope this helps.

Since updating my iPad 2 to ios8, it safari has been slow and crashing and some of the apps acting wierd. The password app doesn't work at all so had to find another way of retrieving all my passwords. Very very dissapointing

Since updating my iPad 2 to ios8, it safari has been slow and crashing and some of the apps acting wierd. The password app doesn't work at all so had to find another way of retrieving all my passwords. Very very dissapointing. It appears from these forums that a lot of people are having the same problems wit this latest update.

Hi erastyle,
Actually the Licensing information for the package is missing hence it is not launching any applications. You need to Reserialize the products using APTEE which you can find it on the Machine where you have created the package. If you dont have the access to that Machine then please download and install Creative Cloud Packager and it will download APTEE in the below mentioned location.
Windows:
C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Adobe\OOBE\PDApp\CCP\utilities
Once downloaded please follow this KB article to use the Tool.
http://helpx.adobe.com/creative-cloud/packager/provisioning-toolkit-enterprise.html
Please let us know if it helps.
Regards,
Abhijit

My iphone 5 went into search mode and I can't place or receive calls or use the internet but my text messages work. Sprint had me do a master reset and my phone doesn't work at all now I can't get it past the activation. Will I have to pay in store?

My iphone 5 went into search mode and I can't place or receive calls or use the internet but my text messages work. Sprint had me do a master reset and my phone doesn't work at all now I can't get it past the activation. Will I have to pay for repairs in store because I didnt get the Apple care plan when I purchased it. Sprint said it may be a phone problem not sure if I should take it to Sprint or Apple...I just need my phone

I'm sorry to learn that you are not able to make/receive calls chelseabee! (ticket number removed) results indicate that there is no issues with the network or account provisioning. Since you have already done a hard reset http://vz.to/1gBkSJc (as per your post), I recommend exploring replacement options. If your phone is within the one year manufacturers' warranty we can provide a Certified Like New replacement http://vz.to/uyYF0o as long as no physical/liquid damage exist. If your phone has sustained physical/water damage and you have insurance, you can submit a claim to the insurance company online at this link http://bit.ly/07CrqPK
AntonioC_VZW Follow us on Twitter at www.twitter.com/VZWSupport
>> Edited to comply with the Verizon Wireless Terms of Service <<
Edited by: Verizon Moderator

Pioneer 8400 DVD receiver player, as iPhone ios6 update now when connecting the new iPhone with ios6 via blutooth (firmware prob) to my car DVD 8400 unit, when playing music such as on my phone or Pandora the track button does not function or work at all

pioneer 8400 DVD receiver player, as iPhone ios6 update now when connecting the new iPhone with ios6 to my car DVD 8400 unit, when playing music such as on my phone or Pandora the track button does not function or work at all not even if i press skip track forward or back on the unit it doesn't function everything works except that. on listening to radio or anything else related not pairing thru Bluetooth unit works fine, seems there to be Bluetooth update that is not making iPhone and unit not compatible at all. does pioneer need fix this problem with update firmware or thru apple need help. my iPhone was working fine before with previous ios 5 before.

Dear Valued Pioneer Customer:
We would like to inform you of the availability of an optional Bluetooth® firmware update (HW05-SW01.27.20) that enables Bluetooth AVRCP control and metadata display from a compatible Pioneer CD or DVD Receiver when used with an iPhone® 5 or iOS 6 device. If you do not own an iPhone 5 or iOS 6 device, there is no need to install this update.
This firmware update may be used only with the following 2012 Pioneer products:
CD Receivers
DVD Receivers
DEH-P8400BH
DEH-P9400BH
DEH-80PRS
AVH-P2400BT
AVH-P3400BH
AVH-P4400BH
AVH-P8400BH
In order to perform this update, the following items are needed:
A Pioneer CD or DVD Receiver above with built-in Bluetooth
Laptop with built-in Bluetooth running Windows® 7
Bluetooth firmware update (HW05-SW01.27.20)
How to Obtain the Free Firmware Update
1. Download the INSTRUCTIONS for the optional Bluetooth firmware update (HW05_SW01.27.20).
2. Download the UPDATE FILE to a computer and transfer the file to a compatible 2012 Pioneer CD or DVD Receiver via a Bluetooth-enabled Windows 7 laptop.
You can also arrange for Pioneer to update your 2012 Pioneer CD or DVD Receiver by calling Pioneer Customer Service toll free at 800-421-1404 during regular business hours (M-F 10AM-7:30PM Eastern Time, except on holidays). If this firmware update is performed by Pioneer, there is a charge of $60.00 (this charge includes return shipping of the updated unit within the U.S.). Charges for removal/reinstallation of the unit and shipment to Pioneer are the customer’s responsibility.
How to Determine if the Firware Update has Already been Installed
CD Receivers:
• With the unit turned off (press and hold the source button until the CD Receiver turns off), press and hold the center of the volume knob to bring up the Settings menu → rotate the volume knob until "BT Version Info" is displayed and then press the center of the volume knob → The firmware version should show HW05-SW01.27.20.
DVD Receivers:
• With the unit turned off (press the home button and select ‘OFF’ from the source icons), press the home button → Press the “System” icon at the bottom of the screen → Select the “Bluetooth Version Info” option → The firmware version should show HW05-SW01.27.20.
If the Bluetooth firmware version shows HW05-SW01.27.20, no further action is necessary.
Questions
If you have any questions, please contact the Pioneer Customer Service Center toll free at 1-800-421-1404, Monday through Friday, 10:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. (Eastern Time), except on holidays.
Sincerely,
Pioneer Electronics (USA) Inc.

"Move Current Track Automation Data to Region" doesn't work for all

I have been using the 'Move Current Track Automation Data to Region' and while it works fine for some types of automation data like channel volume, pan and some plugin parameters, it doesn't work for all of them.
I haven't done exhaustive research into which parameters work and which don't, but most of the parameters for individual voices within Ultrabeat don't - which is annoying as that is what I was trying to use it for.
Any ideas about this, or workarounds?

OK, well an update on this in case anyone's interested.
With some further experimentation I have discovered that this problem did not exist in Logic 7 - ie you can move current track automation data for individual Ultrabeat voices to the region.
It's also possible to move automation data for individual Ultrabeat voices using 'Move All Track Automation Data to Region,' so I suppose this is a kind of workaround, though it can be annoying if you don't want to move all track automation data.
I'm now assuming this is a bug in Logic 8; is there any way to convert a Logic 8 project to work in Logic 7, as this along with the touch tracks bug is making working in Logic 8 very frustrating?

My "sent mail " tone doesn't work. All other tones do work. I've changed tones and rebooted. Still silent

"sent mail" tone doesn't work. All other tones do. What to do?
ILive changed tones and rebooted

Hi Gwing17,
Welcome to the Apple Support Communities!
I understand that all of your iPhone sounds are working as expected except for the Sent Mail sound. I understand that you have already changed the Sent Mail sound as well as reset your iPhone and the issue persists. In this situation, to isolate the issue, I would first recommend backing up your iPhone to either iTunes or iCloud.
Back up and restore your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch using iCloud or iTunes - Apple Support
After you have backed up, I would recommend restoring your iPhone and setting it up as new to test the Sent Mail sound. If the sound works as expected, try restoring from your backup and test the sound again. Please let me know if the issue returns or if the sound still does not work when you set up your iPhone as a new device.
Use iTunes to restore your iOS device to factory settings - Apple Support
Cheers,
Joe

Firefox links/javascript doesn't work at all on OS 10.5.8

Hi, I have downloaded new Firefox 3.6 for my OS 5.8 (previous version was running fine) and it doesn't work at all. Links do not work, address bar does not open sites, period. I deleted the previous version and now I am stuck-I can't find it anywhere, and I want to get rid of this "upgrade". Safari works fine with my system. It looks like the javascript problem...what to do?
== This happened ==
Every time Firefox opened
== I installed new Firefox ==
== User Agent ==
Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; U; PPC Mac OS X 10_5_8; en-us) AppleWebKit/530.19.2 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/4.0.2 Safari/530.19

Can you start in Firefox safe mode? See [[Safe Mode]]

Mac Mail Issue: I was having trouble sending to hotmail accounts from my Earthlink account, they had me go into Mac Mail preferences and make changes, now Mac Mail doesn't work AT ALL - any help changing the settings back to correct Mac Mail settings? I c

I was having trouble sending to hotmail accounts from my Earthlink account, they had me go into Mac Mail preferences and make changes (because they claimed it was Mac Mail's fault, even though the hotmail error code said it's because Earthlink is blocked by hotmail), now Mac Mail doesn't work AT ALL - any help changing the settings back to correct Mac Mail settings? I can provide a transcript of the entire tech chat session, if that will help...

both apostrophes are used correctly, thanks
doesn't = does not (this is called a contraction)
it's = it is
Mac Mail's fault = possessive
any help with the actual issue? thanks!

The accelerometer doesn't work at all please need help

Well the problem is that the accelerometer doesn't work at all in my ipod touch 3G it's with the ios4.2.1 and it used to work normally but now just doesn't react to te moves please need help

Thanks for the Welcome. After using macs for such a long time. This is my absolute 1st problem.
Here's whats in the log:
5/15/08 10:52:19 PM Mail[133] Unknown class ASExtendedOutlineView in Interface Builder file.
5/15/08 10:52:19 PM Mail[133] Unknown class EditingTableColumn in Interface Builder file.
5/15/08 10:52:20 PM Mail[133] * -[NSTextFieldCell minimumWidth]: unrecognized selector sent to instance 0x8db670
5/15/08 10:52:20 PM Mail[133] * -[NSTextFieldCell minimumWidth]: unrecognized selector sent to instance 0x8db670
Stack Trace: (
2512178932,
2475804524,
2512208056,
2512201400,
2512202056,
53820,
53492,
51728,
49036,
2512235268,
2517195632,
2517160308,
2517158680,
35100,
34644,
32612,
29152,
18456,
2501752236,
2511731368,
2443453352,
2443452876,
2443452428,
2517377984,
2517376392,
2517350980,
2517156936,
993392
When I go to Window->Message Viewer from the menu bar....This is what i get and I can't even close it. I have to force quit mail app completely. I just installed AmunRaa2.0 (it's a theme to change the look for low light consumption. I didn't realize but I installed a a file called MailFix which is supposed to be the fix not the actual installer. I am including the file as well.
/Users/paulkola/Desktop/screen-capture.png
/Users/paulkola/Downloads/untitled folder/Installers/Mail Fix.zip

TS2289 I don't what's going on but everytime i press my spacebar to see my movie it doesn't work at all!!! What can i do?

Can someone helpe me with this??? Everytime i press my spacebar to see how my movie is going it doesn't work at all!!!!!!!!

Did it run OK under a new User-Account ?
If so - then the need to clean out iMovie to re-install will not help at all but just be complicated.
If it did run OK - Then
• Delete iMovie pref. file
iMovie pref. file resides.
Mac Hard Disk (start-up HD)/Users/"Your account"/Library/Preferences
not the Library at root level = first window when opening Your Macintosh HD (Mac OS) Start-Up HD
and is named. (one or more of these)
com.apple.iMovie.plist
com.apple.iMovie3.plist
com.apple.iMovie7.plist
com.apple.iMovie8.plist
com.apple.iMovie9.plist
com.apple.iMovieApp.plist
and find
com.apple.iApps.plist
While iMovie is NOT RUNNING - move this/these file/s out on to desk-top.
Now restart iMovie.
If You run Mac OS X.7 or more - then the Library in the User-account folder is invisibly and need to be set to be viewable. IT IS NOT in the Library on Root level (when opening MacintoshHD - first window = root level)
( It can be done like this: Open Terminal, then enter: chflags nohidden ~/Library
Press return, then restart, and it will always be visible until the next major update, when you do the same thing again. )
To find all parts of iMovie to trash to make a Clean Install - is not easy and there will be others that can guide You trough this process. - I never needed to do that - and I used iMovie since iMovie (1) > 10 Years
Yours Bengt W

I have an iPod touch 2nd generation and my touch screen doesn't work, at all. What should I do?

I have an iPod touch 2nd generation and my touch screen doesn't work, at all. What should I do?

Try:
- Reset the iOS device. Nothing will be lost
Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Restore from backup. See:
iOS: How to back up
- Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.
If still problem, make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store since it appears you have a hardware problem.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar
Apple will exchange your iPod for a refurbished one for this price. They do not fix yours. I say not worth it for a 2G
Apple - iPod Repair price
A third-party place like the following maybe less. Google for more. Again, likely not worth it for a 2G
iPhone Repair, Service & Parts: iPod Touch, iPad, MacBook Pro Screens
Replace the screen yourself if you are up to it
iPod Touch Repair – iFixit

My home button doesn't work at all, what should I do to close my apps?

The home button on my iPod doesn't work at all, even wen I press on it really hard. Any suggestions on what I should do?

Try:
http://snapguide.com/guides/calibrate-your-home-button/?utm_expid=69945963-15
fix for Home button
iPhone Home Button Not Working or Unresponsive? Try This Fix
- If you have iOS 5 and later you can turn on Assistive Touch it add the Home and other buttons to the iPods screen. Settings>General>Accessibility>Assistive Touch
- If not under warranty Apple will exchange your iPod for a refurbished one for:
Apple - Support - iPod - Repair pricing
You can do it an an Apple store by:
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar
or sent it in to Apple. See:
Apple - Support - iPod - Service FAQ
- There are third-party places like the following that will repair the Home button. Google for more.
iPhone Repair, Service & Parts: iPod Touch, iPad, MacBook Pro Screens

"is not" doesn't work at all

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for