Is power required to use HDMI?

is the AC power adapter required to use the HDMI port on Macbook pro?

Not for the MBP but the display will have to have its own power. Battery run time will be short though.
Ciao

Similar Messages

Monitor power settings when using HDMI to external TV

Folks
My monitor powers up just fine according to the 5 min setting I have. However, if it's projecting a movie to a TV, it never sleeps the monitor. Any way to change this behavior?
Thx

Hi,
Another workaround method is you can customize the option called: Choose what closing the lid does
in Power settings. Then choose Do nothing.
Then when you play movie through TV, you can close your laptop lid.
Roger Lu
TechNet Community Support

How can i use my smart TV as a second monitor for my Power mac (2010) via HDMI cable? i've made the connection but no options show in system prefs display.

How can i use my smart TV as a second monitor for my Power mac (2010) via HDMI cable? i've made the connection but no options show in system prefs display.
the computer:Mac Pro, Mac OS X (10.9.5), 2 x 2.66 Ghz 6-Core intel Xeon
the TV: LG Smart tv

The Mac uses a highly-parameterized universal Driver for every display. The parameters are set at certain times when a query is sent to your display. The display MUST answer with its name and capabilities, or the screen stays dark. A TV set that is off or "not paying attention" because it is set to a different port when the query occurs will rarely answer, and so will often remain dark.
You can use tools in the System Report to see whether your display has been detected at all. If it has, the report will look something like this, but its name will appear:
The times when the query is sent are:
• at Startup
• at wake from sleep
• when the Mac-end of the cable is inserted
• when using the Option ( Detect Displays ) button in displays preferences

Do Mac Pro 2013 support six TV using HDMI/DVI?

Hi everyone,
I found in Mac Pro support six displays using thunderbolt, but can I using HDMI or DVI?
I have six TVs, all of them have hdmi,dvi, and vga ports, I want to using one Mac Pro (2013) to display my screen in six TV as one screen, such as this:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmlsePKH6AY
Because Mac Pro using AMD display card, can I using Eyefinity technology?
Thanks a lot.

Yes. However, only two adopters can be passive. The rest have to be active.
All mini displayport to VGA adapters are active.
Mini displayport to DVI adopter can either be active or passive. The active ones say actie and cost more than passive ones.
If the display is greater than 1080X1200 you need dual-link mini displayport to DVI adapter. All the dual-link adopters are active and require USB connection for power.
I have no idea what " Eyefinity technology?" is

Power requirements of HP LaserJet Pro P1606dn Printer

Hello,
I had bought this printer from USA and brought it to India.
Now I've a question that whether this printer will work with a 240v of power input ??
Cause in USA HP website it is mentioned that it will work with a 110-volt input voltage: 110 to 127 VAC (+/- 10%), 60 Hz (+/- 2 Hz), 7 A; 220-volt input voltage: 220 to 240 VAC (+/- 10%), 50 Hz (+/- 2 Hz), 4 A
It can be seen over here : http://www.shopping.hp.com/en_US/home-office/-/products/Printers/HP-LaserJet/CE749A?HP-LaserJet-Pro-...
In India's Product page also it is mentioned same.It can be seen over here : http://www8.hp.com/in/en/products/printers/product-detail.html?oid=4110411#!tab%3Dspecs
Moreover on the back of the printer power requirements are given 110-127V ~AC.The pic of it can be seen over here: http://www.storemyfile.org/getfile.php?id=5724&key=4e7b6c045
So I'm in dilemma that whether this printer is a multivoltage printer (i.e. 110v to 220v) or not?
Pls. give me clarification about this so that I can start using the Printer ASAP.
Thanks

Welcome to the HP Forums RockmihiR91,
I read your post and see that you would like to know if the printer supports 240v.
I can help you with this.
Yes, you can use the printer on the 240v, but you will need a power outlet adapter and you will need
the adapter so it will fit the receptacle and converter.
It is not internally on the printer.
Hope this helps.
Have a wonderful day!
Thank You.
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" on the right to say “Thanks” for helping!
Gemini02
I work on behalf of HP

No Sound when Using HDMI from ATT DVR to TV

I have a 52xv645u TV. When I connect it to my ATT UVerse DVR using HDMI I get picture but no sound. Using Composite everything works fine. I've tried several HDMI cables. If I use HDMI to my Surround Sound amp, I get both picture and sound (even with the amp volume muted). The problem seems to be the connection between the DVR and the TV. Does this TV support HDSC? I believe that the DVR requires it to support it on the TV.
I see that there is an upgrade for the firmware for this TV. I have a Mac so the instructions don't work right. I've downloaded the files to a flash drive but I am not sure if they are correct because there is no list of files available. Does anyone know what files are needed so I can be sure that my flash drive has everything it needs?
Any help with these problems would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Mark

Is there a list of things that are fixed in the update? I can get sound and picture through component but I fear that it's not the same quality as it would be through HDMI. But again, it's only when I watch TV without going through my surround sound amp. I can watch TV through my apm and watch my Bluray DVDs through the amp and it goes via HDMI.

Using just the TV screen when using HDMI port?

Hi,
I have the Macbook Pro with retina display and I was wondering how I could use just the TV screen when using HDMI port. I don't want mirroring displays, just one on the TV.

With the TV connected and the MBP plugged into the mains (i.e. not running on battery power) close the lid. The MBP will go to sleep, wake it up with an external keyboard or mouse - which must be connected in advance, or paired in advance if a bluetooth keyboard/mouse.

When using HDMI to HDMI cable the Master Sound Control is locked.

master sound control is locked when using HDMI to HDMI using an HDTV for the display.
Although itunes sound control works. Why is the Master Control locked?

cpfamilia wrote:
Hello,
I am new to OS X and i have tried to adjust the sound when plugged to the secondary monitor through HDMI which of course didn't work.
I have been using windows and a linux for years now, and everything works seamless.
I believe that this could be easily solved by Apple as long as their are willing to do it. Having a virtual device for sound control is not that difficult.
All the bests
There are two ways to 'solve' this.
Alter the volume before sending the digital signal down the HDMI connection, this means the signal is no longer exactly as it was originally. Apple's current (apparent) view is that this should be done at the end i.e. playback device not at the originating (Mac) end so as to minimise the number of devices making changes to the signal. Basically 'volume' is the amplitude of a an analogue wave form. (Where else do you think the term 'amp' comes from.)
Not to alter the volume of the signal at the Mac end but instead to send a signal down the HDMI cable to tell the end i.e. playback device to alter the volume, this uses a standard called CEC (Consumer Electronics Control), unfortunately at the moment no Macs support this standard - it has to be supported at a hardware level so a simple Apple software upgrade to implement this is not possible. I have previously logged an official enhancement request for this with Apple - the more people who do this the more likely it is to be added, since now all Macs include HDMI it might happen at some point.
As an addendum to option 2 above, see http://www.pulse-eight.com/store/products/104-usb-hdmi-cec-adapter.aspx this would however require software support in whatever application is being used. XBMC for Mac does support it.

PC Component power requirements on a KT3 Ultra-ARU: ANSWERS - At last

G'Day Folk,
First, my PC specs are as below in my sig.
Second, I know this is an old motherboard, but I would like to keep it going, and make the best of it for another year or so. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and would help two other users!
Symptoms:
Minor stability and performance issues, mostly in games, simulators, or doing high resolution photographics processing. I bought three machines with similar specs in 2002, for my brother, father, and myself. Each has had some hard to nail down, intermittent problems. My brother's PC has had a new motherboard and processor after failure of the KT3, but still has some niggling problems. He also has an XP 2600+ running at 65C !
More recently I have been able to reliably reproduce graphics problems in Empire Earth II, Serious Sam, and Halo. Specifically, I can create the problem in an Empire Earth II game by running a saved game and looking at a specific spot on the map. The screen shows tearing, and eventually goes black, returning to normal dispaly when I move to a different part of the map. In certain Halo games I could cause the problem by looking in a specific direction. I assume this is because what is being displayed is using different or more graphics processing features, although it is not apparent what they may be from the content of the view.
Being able to reliably reproduce the problem allowed me to actually analyse the cause.
Diagnosis:
After upgrading all drivers, and trying everything I could think of, as well as everything I could find on the web, especially in this forum, I have narrowed the problem down to the power supply. The clincher for me is that when I create the problem the 3.3Volt power supply line (rail) drops to as low as 2.45Volts! The +5V line also fluctuates and drops as low as 4.81Volt. This was measured using MBM5 and MBM5 Log. The usual voltages reported by MBM5 at idle are +3.3V rail = 2.99 to 3.01 Volt, +5V rail = 4.92 to 4.95 Volt.
Okay, so the +5V rail stays in spec (just), but the +3.3V rail is out of spec (+/- 5%) even at idle. It should be at least 3.135Volt.
I checked the voltages with and without the problem using an analogue volt meter, as software voltage readings are often low. The volt meter is a little slow to respond to the voltage fluctuations, but did confirm that at idle the +3.3V rail was less than 3.1Volt (out of spec), and with the problem occuring, dropped at least to 2.8Volt.
As you can see below my power supply should be able to handle all I throw at it. Topower isn't the greatest brand, but it does receive "satisfactory" in reviews on Tom's Hardware and such. I suspect it (and my brother's and father's) has always been weak, although age, or more powerful games may be highlighting the problem.
Solution:
Get a new power supply.
Not so simple these days, particularly if you want to upgrade in the future, with the move to powering components using the 12Volt rail. I want a power supply that will power my current +3.3V and +5V hungry motherboard, plus future 12V requirements, if possible. So I am doing a Power Audit of my PC, hence . . .
Questions:
I have collected power requirements for most of my components in Ampere by supply voltage. However, details are hard to lock down. I'll jump straight into specific questions.
1. The Athlon XP 2100+ draws a maximum of 89.9Watts into the Voltage Regulator Module (VRM), which converts it to the CPU supply voltage of 1.75Volt. (About 51Amps. Ouch!) If this is sourced from the +12V rail as suggested by the AMD Athlon Desktop Builders Guide, then this would be 7.49Amp, and would not effect the +3.3V and +5V rails unless the total power capacity of the supply is being exceeded. However, the CPU power source was changed from the +3.3V and +5V lines to the +12V lines around the time of the XP2100+. I don't know what MSI did on my motherboard.
Can anyone confirm which voltage rail is used to power the XP 2100+ on the KT3 Ultra ARU motherboard?
2. I have found average power usages for motherboards of around 25 Watt on many web sites, but can't confirm the power used by the KT3. Does anyone know the maximum current (Amps) for each voltage rail from the power supply for this motherboard?
3. Memory power requirements also vary a lot on the web. I'm using 10Watt each on the +3.3V rail for two sticks of 512MB DDR Corsair. Can anybody confirm this, for the KT3? (10W per stick seems to have been the standard since 128MB sticks came out!)
4. I have a GeForce 4 Ti 4600 AGP graphics card. (Okay, it's not an MSI, but the power should be similar across brands.) There are several threads that suggest that this card uses lots of +3.3V and +5V power from the AGP slot. (Wonkanoby?) However, none give actual Amps for each rail. Anybody know?
5. In case anybody knows, I can't find actual power for an Audigy 2 ZS either. Any suggestions?
As modern power supplies tend to have reduced +3.3V and +5V capacity in favour of +12V, I need to be pretty sure of the actual requirements on these rails before buying a new supply. I could just "go and by the biggest Antec I can find and don't worry about it", but I might find that it has the same problems my existing one does.
All help greatly appreciated. Selection of a new PSU could fix three PCs, mine, my brother's, and my father's.
PS: My apologies to those I told that this was a great power supply. Well, it has great specs, and the problems observed couldn't be tied to it until recently. Bummer really.
PPS: Sorry for the long post, but it's an interesting, and important topic, isn't it?
UPDATE: See post on 1st March, 2006 for response from vendors and updated table of component requirements.
Here is a copy of my signature in case I change it in the future, just for context.
MSI KT3 Ultra ARU (MS-6380E V1.0), AMI BIOS 5.7
AMD Athlon XP 2100+ Palomino 1.73GHz @13 x 133 FSB
2x Corsair CMX-512-3000C2 512MB 2-2-2-5-1T @333MHz
Leadtek GeForce4 Ti 4600 Winfast A250 Ultra MyVIVO 128MB (AGP)
Creative Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS
2x WD Caviar WD1200JB 120GB 7200RPM 8MB Cache,
each drive enclosed in a Scythe Silent Box Heatlane HDD Enclosure
CD&DVD Plextor PX320A & Pioneer DVR-A09P
Topower PSU 470W PFC 3.3+5V=235W +3.3V/26A, +5V/47A, +12V/28A
mCubed T-Balancer Fan Controller,
multiple quiet fans: Zalman, SilenX, Panaflo, Lian Li blower
Zalman CNPS6000-Cu & ZM-NB32J NB HS
~ 10-20C over ambient
Lian-Li PC-60 Case, WinXP ProSP2+

Try the link below, this will tell you what you need. After you added all you hardware and get the final power result add 50% to this and you will have the proper size P/S needed for your system. You can even make a list of future upgrades you want to do and that way you can see what P/S will work for you now in the present and what you would need in the future, just remember to add 50% to what ever total you add up.
For example, if the P/S calculator says you have a total draw of 279W then you would add 50% to this;
279+50%=418.5
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/index.jsp
Below I have pasted a piece that I made for determing P/S which may help you to;
Resets are a P/S issue and lock-ups are most likely due to your graphic card, with that said I will give you a table with which you can determine the proper P/S for your system and a little info just for info.
I must also add that never trust software to tell you your voltages, this includes the BIOs as the BIOs is just a piece of software. To properly check the voltage one must use a digi-VOM.
A 7200rpm HD draws around 20 watts, this 20 watts includes both the 5v & 12V rail.
HD and CD's generally are figured at 2 Amps per device, let’s brake this down some.
Spin-up: 12V x 1.3A + 5V x 650mA = 19W
Read/Write/Idle: 12V x 350mA + 5V x 700mA = 7.75W
Seek: 12V x 675mA + 5V x 725mA = 12W
Those would be typical for a 7200 rpm IDE drive. As you can see a HD requires more power at start-up then during actual operation. This is why sometimes a PC takes a few tries to start up before it will actually make a successful boot and once it boots to windows all seems well or sometimes a occasional restart, which would indicate a weak/ bad P/S.
Now to find the power used by the CPU you can check either AMD or Intel for the spec sheets on that CPU or you can follow this link that has tons of CPU ratings, CPU specs.
Some more basic mathematics… When a 12-volt circuit is drawing 10 amps, it is consuming 120 WATTS of electrical power. 12 Volts X 10 Amps = 120 WATTS.
This is the formula: P = E x I
P - Watt (power)
E – Voltage (electrical pressure)
I – Amperage (current flow)
Serial/PS-2 ports draw <35mA and if you have USB ports then they have a maximum of 500mA per port, again only if they are used- no use means no draw.
The PCI slots are allowed 5A of the +5V, 0.5A of the +12V and 7.6A of the 3.3V Max per slot, again that is if the slots are used. So if the serial ports, PS-2 and USB ports are being used you are looking at around 5A draw on the MB, which would be around 20 Watts.
So now we can add things up. (This is just an example of a basic system)
MB=20W
CPU= 60W, used as a norm.
HD=20W
CDRW=25W
DVD=20W
Graphic card=15W / newer GF4 and ATI 9000 and up= 35W
RAM 10 Watts per 128 MB
Network Card 5 Watts
Average per PCI Card 8 Watts
Total around 200W for this example.
Now this will fall on different rails and that is were things get tricky, because as you see in my above break down of the HD that a HD use's both the 12V & 5V rail. This is why it is important that the 12V rail be at least 18 Amps if you plan on having more then 1 HD and case fans. Then you have the 3.3V & 5V rails that need to be strong too, the 3.3v rail is actually not so important with newer DDR MB and today’s CPU’s as it is mainly supplying the PS-2 ports power as well as some device cards. Most newer MB use the 5v and 12v rails mainly to supply the demands of today’s devices.
Now this 200W is the bare min what is needed for things to run but in the real world you will want to add 50% to the 200W for your min P/S need, this allows room for spikes and heavy demands and a little head room to add hardware in the future.

I want to output from my 27-1007ev Omni to my tv using hdmi ...

Hi
My Omni 27-1007ev has an HDMI port that I want to use to output online tv from my pc to my actual tv (in order to get UK tv here in Cyprus).
The manual is not clear on this but trials show that the connection appears to be one way only and that is from a games console into the pc. I want to go the other way.
With an HDMI cable attached pressing the top button (pc right hand side adjacent to HDMI port) brings up a game mode message on a grey screen.
The second from top button brings up a facimile of the buttons on screen with this button having a no entry sign over it. The volume buttons have no effect on pc screen as stated in the manual.
The TV screen stays blank throughout.
Anyone got any ideas.
Thanks Rop
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Here are the specs for your HP Omni 27-1007ev Desktop Computer. According to the specs, the HMDI port on the side is for "Game console and/or video player input only". Please see this HP document entitled "Using an HDMI Game Console or HDMI Video Player with your Omni27 PC" for the proper connection and use of the HDMI input on your computer.
To connect your HDMI TV to your Omni 27-1007ev computer will require the use of a USB-to-video adapter such as the EVGA UV Plus+ UV39 or similar adapter.
Frank
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Please click the "Accept As Solution" on my post, if my assistance has solved your issue. ------------V
This is a user supported forum. I am a volunteer and I don't work for HP.
HP 15t-j100 (on loan from HP)
HP 13 Split x2 (on loan from HP)
HP Slate8 Pro (on loan from HP)
HP a1632x - Windows 7, 4GB RAM, AMD Radeon HD 6450
HP p6130y - Windows 7, 8GB RAM, AMD Radeon HD 6450
HP p6320y - Windows 7, 8GB RAM, NVIDIA GT 240
HP p7-1026 - Windows 7, 6GB RAM, AMD Radeon HD 6450
HP p6787c - Windows 7, 8GB RAM, NVIDIA GT 240

Why can I no longer use hdmi cable to connect to the tv

WWhy can I no longer use hdmi cable to connect to the tv

Anyway, with the introduction of ios 8.x, apple stopped supporting older a/v cables. You need to get the latest a/v cable with the correct firmware. There is a little chip in the a/v cable. go to the apple store. Buy a new cable. Verify the cable works in the store.
some people report success with a full factory restore.
Re-boot ipad.
Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button until a red slider appears, then drag the slider. Then press and hold the Sleep/Wake button until the Apple logo appears. page 128 iPad user manual.
force power down if the above give you trouble.
Hold down both the Sleep/Wake button and the Home button. Ten seconds or more. Hold until the Apple logo appears.
more details on re-booting:
    http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Guide/ss/How-To-Reboot-Your-iPad-Power-Off.htm
Restore to factory settings by loading the latest version of ios that your machine will support:
   Do a full backup of your device. Twice is best -- cloud and computer.
   "You can use iTunes to restore your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch to factory settings and the latest version of iOS."
   http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1414?viewlocale=en_US&locale=en_US
   "You can put your iOS device into recovery mode, then restore it using iTunes.:
   http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201263

Toshiba doesn't recognise laptop or tablet when using HDMI

I have a toshiba (Model#46G310U) and when try to connect a laptop or tablet using HDMI cable. It says no signal.
But when i connect the laptop using VGA cable, it works. i want to know my Tv is compatible with tablet or laptop using HDMI cable or if i need to change some setting.

Jolin:
Were those scanned tiff image files you added the data to with exiftool? See if PhotoInfo can read the EXIF data in those files. If not then the fields are not the correct ones.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. Just put the application in the Dock and click on it whenever you want to backup the dB file. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.
Note: There's now an Automator backup application for iPhoto 5 that will work with Tiger or Leopard.

Satellite L650-10H PSK1JE - no external signal on TV using HDMI

I connected my Toshiba L650-10H PSK1JE with TV KDL-26BX320 using HDMI cable. Switched Win+P (Fn+F5) to expand the screen. TV has no signal (black screen) but computer recognize TV. All drivers are updated.
Settings screenshot:
[https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/29198343/Screenshot%202014-09-02%2015.53.56.png]

If it doesnt work and if you are sure you have used right HDMI port, then you should check if this issue appear using another monitor.
Try also do reinstall or update the graphic card driver Could be necessary in this case
I can recommend you just such few common ideas because there is no typical solution for such HDMI issues.
You should connect both devices with an HDMI cable but both devices should be powered OFF.
Then power up the TV, choose the right HDMI channel and then power up the notebook.
After the unit has been booted up, use the mentioned Fn F5 to enable the output on the TV

Different power requirements between 3G and newer iPods?

Can anyone inform me as to whether there is any input power
requirement difference between the 3G and newer "dock connector" iPods? I'm wondering why Griffin Tech sells a PowerPod car power cord for the 3G and earlier dock models and a PowerJolt for the 4G and 5G dock models and Shuffle. If there is no power difference, I'd like to buy the PowerJolt, and use it for both my 3G dock model and my Shuffle, without buying 2 different car power adapters. Any light that can be
shed on this subject would be greatly appreciated.
iMac Mac OS X (10.2.x) iPod 3G and 1G shuffle

I answered my own question. I found my 3 year old owner's manual and found the page where it noted that the iPod will NOT charge the battery when connected via USB to dock cable. Concluding that I probably would not damage my iPod, I tried connecting the PowerJolt, and, as suspected, the iPod does NOT charge. The Griffin Tech solution for vehicle power for the 3G iPod REQUIRES PowerPod.
iMac Mac OS X (10.2.x) iPod 3G and 1Gb shuffle

Latest iMac: USB power requirements unclear, Microsoft USB game pad stopped working

Hello,
I am sorry that the cut and paste information is in German.
I am a long time Apple iMac user and used the Game Pad since years with no USB power issues.
Now, I have just received my late 2014 iMac with Maverick OS X.
Hardware-Übersicht:
Modellname: iMac
Modell-Identifizierung: iMac15,1
Prozessortyp: Intel Core i7
Prozessorgeschwindigkeit: 4 GHz
Anzahl der Prozessoren: 1
Gesamtanzahl der Kerne: 4
L2-Cache (pro Kern): 256 KB
L3-Cache: 8 MB
Speicher: 16 GB
Boot-ROM-Version: IM151.0207.B00
SMC-Version (System): 2.23f11
Ever since, I cannot use my Microsoft USB Game Controller any more.
Controller:
Produkt-ID: 0x028e
Hersteller-ID: 0x045e (Microsoft Corporation)
Version: 1.14
Seriennummer: 075841A
Geschwindigkeit: Bis zu 12 MBit/s
Hersteller: ©Microsoft Corporation
Standort-ID: 0x14600000 / 16
Verfügbare Stromstärke (mA): 500
Erforderliche Stromstärke (mA): Unbekannt (Gerät wurde nicht konfiguriert) <--- Device unknown, and not configured. The power requirements are unclear.
What can I do to get the USB controller accepted again? I have a 3rd party OS X driver that does work for me. I'd assume, this issue is at the HW layer, during boot-up and initial hand shake, not a SW driver's issue.
Sincerely,
Michael

I guess I should have read the forum first. I zapped the pram and everything seems back to normal. Sorry for not trying this 1st. Issue solved.

Is power required to use HDMI?

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