Is the 5c case sturdy enough to withstand drops from a child?

I had a heavy-duty case for my last iPhone but would prefer to go with apple's case for the iPhone 5c, because the design is so fun! My issue is that I have a 1 and 3 yr. old, so I need to make sure that the apple case would protect my phone enough if one of them dropped it. Anyone have any experiences/observations to help me out?

I certainly wouldn't count on any case, unless it is guaranteed to do so, to be sturdy enough to withstand drops from ANYONE.

Similar Messages

Why doesn't the original document I'm dragging and dropping from one folder to another move?

Why doesn't the original document I'm dragging and dropping from one folder to another move?
What's happening is the computer is creating a duplicte of the document and placing it in the new location with a new creation date. The original document I wanted to drag and drop into a new location remains where it started as the "original" document and the new copy has this little arrow protruding up from the lower left of its icon.
At first I thought it was an alias, but it's a copy of the document I thought I was dragging and dropping.
What gives here?
Steve

That arrow indicates it is a linik to the original, though. This happens if you wish to drag files, for which you do not have permissions to do this operation, e.g. from Library or System folder. I am pretty sure you do not accomplish this operation from/to folders like Desktop or Documents; if so, there is a problem with your system.

Where can I find a waterproof, shockproof, dustproof, dirtproof etc case for my Ipad Air very soon and not have to wait for the perfect case for months to come out from Lifeproof company???

Hello,
I just bought a new Ipad Air 128gb w/verizon coverage. I definitely need a all proof case for it like the Lifeproof case I already have for my Ipad 4 w/retina display. Unfortunately I'm hearing Lifeproof hasnt come out with the Air case yet. Can anyone help me locate a company similar that will have that sort of case pls. thanks.

I know Targus has one called Safeport with 3 levels of 'strong, stronger, strongest' but I couldn't find it specifically saying it accommodated the Air on their site. BUt it could be another brand for you to search for.

Bit by Mountain Lion's Time Machine bug - how to proceed best in the simpler cases?

My MacBook Air mid-2012 had never been updated to Mavericks. I had backed it up just a week before a big coffee spill that killed it (June 2014).
I finally got a replacement never-before-used 2012 Macbook Air running Mountain Lion (great to make the Time Machine restore seamless).
That's when I tried "Restore from Time Machine" and it showed the "last full backup" as being from June 2013!!! Then in Migration Assistant, couldn't locate my disk. I've been bitten by the "Exclusion" bug and my Library/ Applications / System folders have not been backed up since a year ago. I'm one of the ones that "found out after it was too late."
So I'll try the workaround. Thanks to Pondini for his great website:
http://pondini.org/TM/D10.html
http://pondini.org/TM/D10r.html
My plan is to restore from Time Machine to my 2013 full system.
Then swap out the Users folder to bring it up to date to the June 2014 version that I have backed up.
Luckily I have only one user account so this can't get TOO complicated.
After that, I'll reset Time Machine and check it periodically via the Command-R trick to make sure it's backing everything up fully.
Still, I'm left with a few questions/concerns that I'm hoping Pondini or others can help to allay before I proceed....
-What will I have lost in a year from those folders that did not back up? I know I may have lost non-Mac applications that I downloaded and also any software updates to said applications. What problems might I encounter in the way of error messages, etc.? I feel like i don't understand the contents of these folders well enough to realize how in trouble I'm in (or not) regarding these folders being out-of-date by a whole year.
-Is it really as simple as swapping out the Users folder on the new system with my most recent backup from June 2014? Any hiccups I should expect from this process? Will all of my photos go back into iPhoto? Will all of my mail files go back into the Mail app? Or in these cases, is there something I need to initiate to smooth out this process? Photos and Mails are the two big concerns; as for the other stuff, I have yet to find out if it's relevant until a problem occurs.
-Once I have restored Apps/Systems/Library to the 2013 backup and Users to the 2014 backup, then what? I'll reset Time Machine but then should I assign it to the new computer? Should I tell it to inherit the new computer? Should I wipe it clean and start fresh? How to proceed after so that I don't have more and more problems down the line, and hopefully don't lose any of the data that I at least have managed to save/restore up to now...
Thanks in advance for any help and sorry if I'm not more clear; I'm not so technologically literate so I'm not sure how best to phrase these things to get my point across.
And special shout out to Pondini who made the discovery of this bug a lot easier to stomach thanks to your helpful website.

A clone is an option.
Clone - Carbon Copy Cloner (Often recommended as it has more features than some others)
Clone – Data Backup
Clone – Deja Vu
Clone - SuperDuper
Clone - Synk
Clone Software – 6 Applications Tested
Commonly Used Backup Methods

Is the 256GB flash storage enough for me? Can I install a bigger SD?

Hi there, I am transferring from a Dell (which I love) to the Macbook Air 256. However, I'm very concerned about the storage. I've had my Dell for 10 years and never gotten near the storage capacity. It has 285Gb and I've used 215GB of it. I figured the 256 would be enough, but I've only transferred 1 year of pictures over to my MAC, and the storage space is already HALF FULL!!!! I barely deleted 50 photos, and you can see the storage space free up by a couple GBs. Does flash storage not hold as much as regular hard drives? I'm a novice at mac computers and am getting really frustrated that this computer might not hold anything. Everything is also on an external drive, but I like it all on my computer for easy access. I also heard that I can put SD cards into my Macbook air to give me more storage. Is this true and if so, where do I get that? Thank you so so much for your help!

firebox is only $30 at walmart, if you dont have a safe deposit box.
theft is more about HIDING IT than vaulting it, buy a fireproof SLEEVE on Ebay for $30 and hide it under etc etc something, very easy to do.
you can buy your own private website, which is what I do, I have several   Cost is roughly $120 per year unlimited storage..
(see godaddy.com or otherwise)
However safety has to be put in place to prevent others from accessing your data, also very easy.
Its all about redundancy #1 and #2 longevity (DVD professional archival) for very important information that cant degrade over short term and rated for at least 60+ years.
All these points are explained in detail in the link I posted you as User Tip.
Online archives
Drawbacks:
1. Subject to server failure or due to non-payment of your hosting account, it can be suspended.
2. Subject, due to lack of security on your part, to being attacked and hacked/erased.
Advantages:
1. In case of house fire, etc. your data is safe.
2. In travels, and propagating files to friends and likewise, a mere link by email is all that is needed and no large media needs to be sent across the net.
3. Online archives are the perfect and best-idealized 3rd platform redundancy for data protection.
4. Supremely useful in data isolation from backups and local archives in being online and offsite for long-distance security in isolation.
5. *Level-1.5 security of your vital data.
As for hard drives, dont make the HUGE mistake others make, only having ONE off computer copy on a HD, thats a tragedy in waiting, 2 copies is 1, and 1 is none, ....and the data on the computer doesnt count in the 2-copy scheme.
Hard Drive Warning (all makes and models)
Ironically but logical, new hard drives are far more fragile than one that has been working for several months or a couple years. So beware in your thinking that a new hard drive translates into “extremely reliable”!
Hard drives suffer from high rates of what has been termed "infant mortality". Essentially this means new drives have their highest likelihood of failing in the first few months of usage. This is because of very minor manufacturing defects or HD platter balancing, or head and armature geometry being less than perfect; and this is not immediately obvious and can quickly manifest itself once the drive is put to work.
Hard drives that survive the first few months of use without failing are likely to remain healthy for a number of years.
Generally HD are highly prone to death or corruption for a few months, then work fine for a few years, then spike in mortality starting at 3-4 years and certainly should be considered end-of-life at 5-7+ years even if still working well. Drives written to once and stored away have the highest risk of data corruption due to not being read/written to on a regular basis. Rotate older working HD into low-risk use.
The implication of this is that you should not trust a new hard drive completely (really never completely!) until it has been working perfectly for several months.
Given the second law of thermodynamics, any and all current mfg. HD will, under perfect storage conditions tend themselves to depolarization and a point will be reached, even if the HD mechanism is perfect, that the ferromagnetic read/write surface of the platter inside the HD will entropy to the point of no viable return for data extraction. HD life varies, but barring mechanical failure, 3-8 years typically.
Hard drive failure and handling
The air cushion of air between the platter surface and the head is microscopic, as small as 3 nanometers, meaning bumps, jarring while in operation can cause head crash, scraping off magnetic particles causing internal havoc to the write surface and throwing particles thru the hard drive.
Hard drives are fragile in general, regardless, ... in specific while running hard drives are extremely fragile.
PDF: Bare hard drive handling generic instructions
hard drive moving parts
Some of the common reasons for hard drives to fail:
Infant mortality (due to mfg. defect / build tolerances)
Bad parking   (head impact)
Sudden impact   (hard drive jarred during operation, heads can bounce)
Electrical surge   (fries the controller board, possibly also causing heads to write the wrong data)
Bearing / Motor failure   (spindle bearings or motors wear during any and all use, eventually leading to HD failure)
Board failure   (controller board failure on bottom of HD)
Bad Sectors   (magnetic areas of the platter may become faulty)
General hard drive failure

When I play video clips from websites like Prescreen the sound is loud enough to hear w/out headphones. When I play my own professionally mastered video I have to wear head phones to hear loud enough. Is there a trick in Compressor or other software?

When I play video clips from websites like Prescreen the sound is loud enough to hear w/out headphones. When I play my own professionally mastered video I have to wear head phones to hear them loud enough. Is there a trick in Compressor or other software to make my overall sound loud enough?

The Nokia 3720 classic is a IP54 level water,
Not even close to good enough, LCD screen will crack, water will go in through the jack/charger ports..
The phone i describe has no external ports just 4-5 little pins which can't let water in or out of the device, the docking station will connect via these 4 - 5 pins for data transfer and recharging...., IPX8 standard, all the electronics are epxoyed with a glue to stop real bad shocks from drops and bangs, along with a silicon case and all the other preventative meausres means this little phone is going to outlive you.
in combination with heart rate external bluetooth connection, really what more could you want... only the Sonim comes close in terms of perfection but if it managed to pack all of above, then it would be simply wow... I don't think there's enough people who work for nokia who actually go camping, backpacking, hiking, i'm pretty sure that if i told them one day
on a holiday you might drop your phone into the swimming pool, ok fine it's a mistake but damn, there goes your $$$$ N7 or N900 or even a HTC or Iphone.... not this, you'd yell to the first person you see in the pool, hey mate can i have my phone back, don't worry about the water damage, i'll get it back on insurance after a small lie stopping the person from running off with it (in fear of the now useless mobile phoned killed by water, making an attempt to steal be useless)
The person gets their phone back and carries on about his day, it drops out of your pocket, how many times you ran over it because you happened to leave it behind the back tire. oh no i ran over my phone, the tough casing and the epoxy keeping it nice and safe, except for superficial damage cosmetic, the screen and phone should be working still able to make that call or send out GPS info....
Sorry nothing comes close by any company (except Sonim) in terms of what they can do... maybe even a portable charger turn it to recharge like on LED dynamos. nah maybe not.

I'm wondering if anyone else has had problems with their imac fans being extremely loud when running at slow speeds? When the computer heats up enough for the fans to run at higher speeds they quiet down. New HD fan was just installed.

I have an imac that I've had for a couple years. The fans have always been loud when running at the slower speeds. When the computer heats up enough for the fans to run at a higher speed the fans quiet down. I had installed SMC fan control after multiple attempts with Apple to get the fan issue resolved. That seemed to keep the fans quiet enough. I've never had a problem with overheating. Recently the fans were becoming loud again even running at the slightly higher speeds so I took it to my local Apple store and they replaced the hard drive fan. I got it back and it's now as loud or louder than ever!! And, now SMC fan control won't "stick." The fans will speed up, but then gradually go back to the lower "loud" levels. I'm at a loss as to what to do next.

Thanks jared,
I'm still dealing with this issue through Apple. Some time after I posted this, I contacted Apple again. They did start a case up for me, as I was experiencing the same behavior on two different machines, with two different versions of Windows.
So far it remains unsolved. I've logged iClouds for Windows on my desktop, which is brand new, then logged for awhile after completely uninstalling Norton Security Suite, depending on the Microsoft security for some time, and finally logged after I uninstalled iCloud for Windows, restarted, installed a clean download, and connected using a completely different test account, which Apple set up for me. None of this made any difference. Looking at the logs, it seems every 10 minutes, iCloudServices.exe creates a new TCP connection to confirm I'm using less than 5GB on iCloud, (which I am by a good margin, using less than 2GB), it seems this connection is not closed, and when the next iteration rolls around 10 minutes later, a new TCP connection is created. I come very close to having 6 TCP connections created per hour, until I restart my computer. This works out to... 6 x 24 = 144/day.
Perhaps the article you posted will shed some further light on this. I'm thinking seeing the state of the connection through netstats, at the least, could help.
For the last week, I've been putting a hold on further logging, as Apple wants me to create a new user account on one of my computers, install iCloud for Windows there, and log it running in the other account. This however basically means I cannot use my computer for a fair number of hours, and I've been busy enough with work the past week that I haven't the time or energy to afford to set this up and run it. I've had need of my computers too much for the past week.

I just ordered a macbook air today and need to know if the 128gb SSD is enough space. I presently have a macbook pro and am using only 30gb hard drive space so, the apple rep said 128 is enough as I do not load much pictures or gaming etc. Also is i5 ok.

I just ordered a macbook air today and need to know if the 128gb SSD is enough space. I presently have a macbook pro and am using only 30gb hard drive space so, the apple rep said 128 is enough as I do not load much pictures or gaming etc. Also is i5 ok.

Id choose the I5 yes, depends on what your usage is going to be,
....your question about "128 gig being enough" begs the question for IDEALIZED USE of your macbook AIr
In the case of a Macbook Air with ‘limited’ storage on the SSD, this distinction becomes more important in that in an ever rapidly increasing file-size world, you keep vital large media files, pics, video, PDF collections, music off your SSD and archived on external storage, for sake of the necessary room for your system to have free space to operate, store future applications and general workspace. You should never be put in the position of considering “deleting things” on your macbook SSD in order to ‘make space’.
*Generally, unless you NEED the data at least once every few weeks or once a month,...it really does'nt NEED to be on the SSD of your Macbook Air.
Professionals who create and import very large amounts of data have almost no change in the available space on their computers internal HD because they are constantly archiving data to arrays of external or networked HD.
Or in the case of the consumer this means you keep folders for large imported or created data and you ritually offload and archive this data for safekeeping, not only to safeguard the data in case your macbook has a HD crash, or gets stolen, but importantly in keeping the ‘breathing room’ open for your computer to operate, expand, create files, add applications, for your APPS to create temp files, and for general operation.
Ive got more APPS than any human should have on my 128gig AIR,..(50 or so),....and 10gig of working data, important files etc etc.
Still have 82gig available....... the entire point is that someone shouldnt consider the Air a "storage device" for tons of pics, music, vids, etc.
*Never consider any computer a data storage device at any time under any circumstance, rather a data creation, sending, and manipulation device. Anyone who thinks data is safe on any computer, even copied upon multiple partitions is making a mistake that will, without fail, strike.
For needs of packing around a LOT of "big data" with your Air in its case..., get a nice 1TB HD for $70, or even a 2TB drive not much bigger.
Perfect 2TB HD, very slim, the "little giant" made by Toshiba (have several of these) $119
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Connect-Portable-HDTC720XK3C1/dp/B00CGUMS48 /ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1379182740&sr=1-4&keywords=2tb+toshiba
*This one is the BEST external HD available that money can buy:
$75
HGST Touro Mobile 1TB USB 3.0 External Hard Drive
http://www.amazon.com/HGST-Touro-Mobile-External-HTOLMX3NA10001ABB/dp/B0062FZ2WS /ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1379185002&sr=1-1&keywords=hitachi+extern a l+hard+drive

The back case of the ipod

ok so i was given a used ipod nano and i was cleeaning it off and it looks liike the back cover is semi coming off. Is there a way to take it off and re put it on??? If so please let me kno

Most likely, the Clips that hold the back case to the Ipod Broke in some places. TO take it off u can just use a spudger or if ur brave enough a flathead screwdriver.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPod/iPod-Nano-1st-Gen-/Rear-Panel/97/1/

Could not render the database. Not enough memory.

This seems to be a big bug in Fireworks CS4. I am building a 10 page website. I only had the opportunity to insert about 10 high quality images into the project, and then tried saving the project as a Fireworks PNG. It appeared to Save successfully, however from that point on, any object I would click on, any layer I would select a message would appear.
"Could not render the database. Not enough memory."
Has anyone seen this before? How can I fix this?
I tried doing a workaround. I tried opening the saved file from Fireworks CS3. Before opening, it displays a message about insufficient permission in the registry. I click OK, and it opens in CS3. I can finally edit the project and make changes, and save it without problems. However, even after saving in CS3, I cannot open it in CS4 without getting the error message. It is not only on my machine. I send my project to others to see if they can open it via CS4, and they can't either. They get the same message.
I attached the PNG file, this is for a school project.
Any help is most appreciated.

I'm relieved to hear that. So I trust that your images are all nice and small, file-size-wise.
Okay! I trust you have already defragged your hard drive and turned off all those nasty TSRs that eat up your RAM. Fileswapping is usually what slows my computer down.
Check for scripts that might be running wild in the background. Can't think what they might be, but if something is looping and shouldn't be, you'll end up with less free RAM to move around in.
I haven't noticed the problem with lots of layers, but I haven't been watching, either. Have you experimented with turning off the layers that you are not actually exporting? I understand the convenience in keeping all those layers in there...it's a big timesaver in editing throughout a project. If all the layers are not needed in the image export, however, turn them off temporarily. That might save some elbow room.
It sounds as if your system fits the basics, but you might check:
Windows
1GHz or faster processor
Microsoft® Windows® XP with Service Pack 2 (Service Pack 3 recommended) or Windows Vista® Home Premium, Business, Ultimate, or Enterprise with Service Pack 1 (certified for 32-bit Windows XP and Windows Vista)
512MB of RAM (1GB recommended)
1GB of available hard-disk space for installation; additional free space required during installation (cannot install on flash-based storage devices)
1,024x768 display (1,280x800 recommended) with 16-bit video card
DVD-ROM drive
Broadband Internet connection required for online services*
Mac OS
PowerPC® G5 or multicore Intel® processor
Mac OS X v10.4.11–10.5.4
512MB of RAM (1GB recommended)
1GB of available hard-disk space for installation; additional free space required during installation (cannot install on a volume that uses a case-sensitive file system or on flash-based storage devices)
1,024x768 display (1,280x800 recommended) with 16-bit video card
DVD-ROM drive
Broadband Internet connection required for online services*
Rather than jumping to think it's a bug, try a test with 9 layers, or 8 layers. If only 10 layers and up provide problems, file a bug/feature report or contact someone in support.
As this is a user forum, we (other users) neither speak for Adobe nor know everything about the applications from a support viewpoint, so while we're always willing to offer opinions and frequently solutions, real bugs are not in our bailiwick.
Perhaps someone with a multi-layer difficulty can chime in here.
Beth

IPad Air won't turn on after opening the smart case

iPad Air won't turn on after opening the smart case cover, it does not do it all the time but enough to concern me

Take both the iPad and the Smart Cover back to where you bought them for an evaluation. Make an appointment at an Apple Store to have your device examined by a technician. Or contact Apple Support.

Car charger that works with the bumper case?

Does anyone know which, if any, brands of car chargers and models that work with the new bumper case? I went to best buy yesterday and they all looked too thick to even buy it and give it a try.

I'm pretty sure the lack of functionality with car chargers and the bumper case is simply because the cutouts for the USB connector on the bumper is too small..that's the only reason. Otherwise it will work; it's simply a physical problem with the connector not seating properly; that's it.
I'm saying this based on my own situation. I have a Griffin car charger /FM receiver that worked with my iPhone 3G and it worked with my iPhone 4 until I put the bumper case on.
The situation is the same situation as to why the Apple supplied USB cable that shipped with the 3G does not work with the iPhone 4 w/bumper. Apple redesigned the size of the USB connector and sized the cutout on the bumper for their new smaller size making the bumper not backwards compatible with existing devices with the older size USB connectors. The size differential is not that big but it's big enough to cause problems.

The iPad Case Thread

With the iPad out less than a month, it's surprising to see how many cases are out there. Unfortunately, most cases are not available in stores, so it's hard to get a read on them. iLounge.com did a great review of many of the cases. I thought an iPad case thread would give us an opportunity to share out thoughts with the cases we have purchased, what we like, what we dislike.
I'll go first:
I decided that I didn't want a portfolio type...I prefer my iPad "naked" in my hands. To protect it, I used the Bodyguardz front/back/sides protector. The back give me just enough grip to reduce the slipperyness of the iPad. For a case, bought the Waterfield Designs Slip Case (sfbags.com). It is a snug fit, nicely lined with a plastic "shield" built in to prevent damage to the screen. If provides great protection and can slip into a brief case, shoulder bag, etc. I'm very happy with it...it's well made and great customer service. In addition, their site shows videos of each bag so you can seen them in action.
Anyone else buy a case they like/dislike? Let's hear it....

I think the problem with the iPad accessories in general is A) the lack of hands -n availability of the cases and B) Not knowing how to treat the iPad and C) the size of the unit requires more raw material and thus higher prices and probably less profit margin. Its not a phone, not a touch, not a notebook, not a tablet pc.......its a hybrid of its own. I don't even think the manufacturers of these cases are hip to what the case should be like. Thats going to take some time in my opinion.
_*CASE MATE:*_
I tried the "Gelli" Case from Case-Mate for $39.99 with free shipping from case-mate.com. Its one of the most attractive case I have seen but it didnt improve the feel of the iPad in my hands. It was almost an extension of the slippery feel of the naked iPad. I kept it for 3 weeks to really make sure I didnt like it. And its not so much that I didnt like it, but I also didnt love it. I have returned it for a refund. Again, its a well made and attractive case, its just not for me. I WISH they would make a Barely-There line for the iPad as I have them for my iPod Touch.
+CASE-MATE LINK+ - http://www.case-mate.com/Apple-iPad-Cases/Case-Mate-iPad-Gelli-Kaleidoscope-Case s.asp
HDACCESSORY:
I also ordered a leather folio from HD ACCESSORY.com for $29.95 plsu $8.00 shipping. My hopes were to have a leather carry case for meetings and the like. I looked at the apple case, the other cases from incase and the like, but each one had a "fatal flaw" of one kind or another for me. So I ordered the leather folio from HDA as mentioned above. It arrived last weekend and was a disappointment. The "straps" wouldnt hold the iPad in place, and there was glue on the inside "suede" lining, very unprofessional. I have since shipped it back and am hoping for a full refund.
+HDACCESSORY LINK+ - http://www.hdaccessory.com/servlet/the-3109/Apple-iPad-W-dsh-Fi-WiFi/Detail
BELKIN:
Last weekend I was at Best Buy and found a Belkin "Grip Swell" (cute name) and purchased it for $49.99 + tax (yikes!). Its soft and "grippy" , perhaps not quite as "grippy" as I would prefer, but I still like the case. It improves the experience of the iPad as a case should. I have opted to keep it despite the high cost of the unit.
+BELKIN LINK+: http://belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=509996
*_INCASE SLEEVE:_* I looked at this one in Best Buy but at $39.95 (I passed on it). That said, its extremely well made and the material inside the unit is SO SOFT. I ended up ordering an InCase Netbook Sleeve (INCL57365) which will fit the iPad for $22.20 dollars shipped from B+H Camera. It should arrive any day now.
+INCASE LINK+: http://goincase.com/products/detail/neoprene-sleeve-plus-cl57474
CASE LOGIC NETBOOK ESLING: I saw a YouTube review for this a week or so ago. Its a nice netbook carry bag that retails for $34.99 or higher. I got it at my local Best Buy for $7.99 (I think they are closing it out for the new model). What a steal!
+Case Logic YouTube Link+ - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hIyk1I2Ieg
I also looked at the following cases:
*Apple Case* - This was the first case I considered, but I have seen more negative than positive reviews on it. Seems awkward to me.
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC361ZM/A?fnode=MTc0MjU2Mjc&mco=MTc0Njk0ODM
*InCase Convertible Book Jacket* - Not sure all that FOLDING of the case would be good long term.
http://goincase.com/products/detail/CL57512/5
*Marware Eco Flip* - I felt the hand-sleeve would end up getting too loose. I wonder how well the stand works as well.
http://www.ilounge.com/index.php/reviews/entry/marware-eco-vue-for-ipad/
In closing, my DREAM case would be something like a leather folio with the ability to have a SKIN case (like the Belkin) while using the folio.
Hope this helps someone.
chaz

Does the "Warning! Not Enough Memory" bug still exist in Logic 8?

Hello everyone,
I'm wondering if the dreaded "warning, not enough memory" bug still exists in Logic 8. Here is a detailed account of the bug from Logic 7: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=767597&#767597
If this is fixed, I'm seriously considering upgrading mid-project! The film score I'm working on has many doubling parts that I'd like to edit at the same time in the matrix editor. However, editing multiple parts in the matrix editor seems provoke the little bugger, and I've already been bitten a few times in this project already. The only solution I've found is to stay clear of editing multiple parts at once (i.e. edit each parts individually, which obviously takes more time) or save before editing and hope I dont get bit.
I would LOVE to hear a report that this bug has been exterminated, and perhaps may upgrade mid project if thats the case.
Thanks in advance for your reply!

Heya,
I'm not familiar with the bug you're talking about. But would, as a fellow film composer, strongly urge you against the mid project switch.
I loaded in LP8 and ofcourse had a look at what it was all about, and it's really really fantastic. It also seems very stable. I fortunately have a side project that I am working on so switched to LP8 for that. Whilst I'm thankful to get my head around a very new approach for logic, I'm also thankful that I have this side project as it has illuminated a multitude of problems that exist with LP8 that would make any scoring process a bit of a headache to say the least. The main one being that if you don't have a very very powerful mac (I'm prepping a really fully loaded 8 core) you are not going to get anywhere near the performance out of Logic as you do with 7. This is a bottom up overhaul and it needs hardware to match. Heck even my 30" cinema display seems cramped and insubstantial on this new version. I would be so bold to say hold off until you have a hearty new mac and at least 8.2 is released IMHO but maybe try and get on it onto a smaller project to familiarize yourself before hand.

I had the bottom case of my MacbookPro replaced and now I can't print help?

Hi I had the bottom case to my Macbook Pro 2.33 Ghz intel core 2 duo replaced. Prior to this the machine worked perfectly. Now it can't connect to the internet using DHCP and it won't print either over the internet or with the printer plugged in directly. I can connect over airport to the internet if I manually put in the IPv4 address, the Subnet mask and the Router address. These are the only things I have found (so far) that are affected. I dowloaded and reinstalled the printer driver and it still doesn't work. Any ideas as to what they have done to my machine ?
Thanks

When the ethernet cable is plugged in it does show as plugged in. The interesting thing is that the self assigned IP and Subnet mask address is the same as the self assigned IP and Subnet mask address is for Airport and they don't work. I have to manually enter them and the router address in order to go on the internet. There are 4 other computers using this network and no other computer on the network is having this issue nor did this laptop prior to the bottom case replacement, so I don't think it is the router modem or airport extreme base station.
It shows:
IPv4 address: 169.254.197.177
Subnet Mask: 255.255.0.0
These numbers are quite off from what they should be. Also this doesn't show a router address and it should.

Is the 5c case sturdy enough to withstand drops from a child?

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