Is the MacBook Air recommended for working with RAW photographs using Aperture or Lightroom and perhaps Photoshop?

Is the MacBook Air recommended for working with RAW photographs in Aperture and Photoshop, or do I need a more powerful MacBook ? The relative lack of weight of the AIr is what attracts me to it.

For doing Photography with RAW files in either Aperture or Photoshop, the new MacBook Air is fine, but for Photoshop CS6 some of the filters and plugins really need a better graphics card and plenty of RAM.
You'll also want an external disk if you are going to be doing lots of shooting.
Summary:
Yes, you can use an air but you'll want external storage and at least 8GB of ram.
Or go MacBook Pro with 16GB ram with the 650M card.

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The headphone jack on my macbook air isn't working. I have plugged in two headphones and both won't work although they do work on other devices. Any ideas on how to resolve this problem?

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update to latest OSX 10.9.3
reset SMC , you likely put your Air into sleep mode with phones attached.
update the OSX to fix the issue.

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I have installed the air-extreme base and all works with my macBook air.
I am not able to use iphone 4s and the wireless printer hp envy.
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Mate - you are singing from my hymnbook!
There is something amazing about having an ipad2 and being able to present to a boardroom while standing up, moving around and wirelessly presenting - and now I see Macbook Air is really penetrating the office suite - the same is needed - for professional presentations there is nothing better
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It would be a good option if you plan on using iMovie and you have a desktop at home that you do most of your work on and the MacBook air is only for "mobile" editing. However, if you want to run apps like Final Cut Pro then a Macboo Pro may be a better option, but the MacBook air can still run Final Cut.
Here's a link to a MacBook Air Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iX0PNn-nrI
Specs of The Reviewed MacBook Air:
11.6" Core i5 i.6GHZ 4GB RAM 128GB SSD
Hope this Helps,
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My imessages app on the macbook air is not working

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I tried ti shut down and The...: Apple Support Communities

Mac Pro RAID block size recommendations for working with audio in Logic Pro

I have recently ordered a Mac Pro and plan to do a RAID configuration across 3 HDD's
The RAID type i am going to do is a RAID 0 striped.
The computer is going to be used primarily for audio post production and working with 20+ 24-Bit audio files at any one time within a Logic project.
I want to know what is the best block size i should use when configuring the RAID.
I understand that using a higher block size is best for working with large files but do i need to do this in my case or will the default 32k block size be enough?
Thanks in advance

Use 64k. Things like databases like having 32k blocks because of all the small files. Audio files are pretty small even at 24-bit 192KHz. Go to 128k if all you are doing is streaming and no samples. But 20+ 24-bit is really not too large anyway considering most modern HDD's can stream 100MB/s off one spindle. You'll probably be fine regardless of the block size you choose. But most audio pro's choose 64k.

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See this thread:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5306216?tstart=0
FIX:
1. You need Time Machine
2. Go to folder /Library/CoreMediaIO/Plug-Ins/DAL/
3. Copy AppleCamera.plugin to good place (usb memory stick is the best place).
4. Go to Time machine in date that skype work fine.
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From Apple:
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See this thread:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5306216?tstart=0
FIX:
1. You need Time Machine
2. Go to folder /Library/CoreMediaIO/Plug-Ins/DAL/
3. Copy AppleCamera.plugin to good place (usb memory stick is the best place).
4. Go to Time machine in date that skype work fine.
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Hello,
had the same issue with previous system 10.9. Question was answered and it solved the problem, only until I reboot the computer. Then problem appeared again.
Installed 10.10.1 Yosemite and again my camera is no longer operating. I tried the previous method and used Disk Utilities to repair the permissions but it still does not work.
Appreciate the help
Vincent

Reset SMC. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Choose the method for:
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Working with Raw files in Aperture

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The export options that I have - from dragging to the desktop to sharing as- all end up leaving me with a JPEG image which might only be two or 3 MB. The raw file can often be 10 or 15 MB
So what is the best way to output the full image?

I have a RAW file (22 mbs), I can see from your helpful guidance that I can go into Aperture/Preferences/Export and set the export format to (for example) Tiff 16 bit. When I do that the exported Tiff file is 53 mbs, sounds like I have a got a pretty full version there with all the information store in it so no compaints.
I have another option, export as jpeg in 'original size'. When I set that and then 'Share as email', the resulting image is 2.2 mbs. Do you think a 2.2mb jpeg can be the full high quality image ?
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Working with RAW images in Aperture

I shoot with a Canon DSLR in RAW. I notice that certain adjustments when applied to a RAW file have no effect ie. sharpen, edge sharpen, noise reduction and maybe more.
I suspect that these adjustments are applicable to either a TIFF of JPEG file.
Could you please comment as to the best workflow to get the optimum end result from RAW files?
I Googled "processing raw files in Aperture" and got nothing useful.
Thanks in advance
kent

Hi Kent.
Read through this and the links and some of the links' links.
The choice is:
- use the computer in your camera, via your camera interface, camera to produce JPGs, or
- record sensor data to RAW files, and use RAW converters and image development programs such as Aperture (or Lightroom) running on your computer hardware.
RAW generally starts in a fairly "uninflected" state, and always gives you maximum latitude for development.
JGP is faster.
Imho, the only reason to shoot JPG is either that you are producing snapshots or you are under professional deadlines.
Added:
The best RAW workflow: record RAW only. Import into Aperture. Develop each Image to your needs. You may wish to change the RAW Fine Tuning defaults, but the need for this is rare. More likely, you'll wish to develop and save some Adjustment Presets (collections of Adjustments you can apply together).
Message was edited by: Kirby Krieger

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Is CS3 better for working with RAW images than Elements 6?

Hi all,
I am trying to find out if it is worth buying CS3 in stead of elements 6. Surprisingly, nobody has been able to tell me what the difference exactly is.
The best I got so far was that elements is a trimmed down version of CS3 but what more can I do with CS3?
As I am in England, CS3 would cost me about $1100, as opposed to $650 in the US, which is a bit much if you don’t know exactly what you get for that amount.
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I have not used Photoshop Elements since version 2.0. In that version it was very similar to Photoshop as far as how the interface was designed. There were a few key elements that were missing such as the Curve adjustment. It is my understanding that there is a free download available from a third party source that will provide that capability.
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Is the MacBook Air recommended for working with RAW photographs using Aperture or Lightroom and perhaps Photoshop?

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