Is the MBP noisy?

Hello,
I've been reading around and I have can't find an answer for this question.
Does the new late 2013 15" Retina MBP with the NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M graphics card have noisy fans that comes on when opening pictures and full-screening videos? I've been on Google and found people complaining about the fan kicking in when they open pictures and full screen videos.
Apparently, this is only on the 15" MBP with the separate NVIDIA graphics card. I really want to know because I'm thinking of getting one, and the last thing I want is a noisy notebook, as my current laptop is annoyingly noisy.
Thanks

Hi T,
When any notebook compute gets hot enough, the fans come on, and they make noise, otherwise the computer would fry itself. So yes, when that MBP gets hot enough, the fans will speed up. How hot it gets determines how fast the fans go and how loud they will be.

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I have a 15in MBP late 2013 w/ Mavericks installed. At work, I was hoping to dock the MBP and connect to dual Dell P2414H monitors.

To do so I purchased (2) DisplayPort to HDMI cables and (1) Thunderbolt to HDMI adapter. As for setup, I have one monitor directly connected to the HDMI port on the MBP and the other monitor connect to the Thunderbolt adapter.
I am getting no signal whatsoever on either monitor. I've ensured that each monitor is set to DisplayPort. I can understand a signal issue existing between the monitor and the adapter, but I cannot understand the issue with the monitor connected directly to the MBP via the HDMI port. I checked System Report > Hardware > Thunderbolt and my Thunderbolt to Ethernet adapter shows, but port2 contains no connected device (this is where the Thunderbolt to HDMI adapter is plugged). Does anyone know where I can check the status of the HDMI port?
I'm hoping that the issue isn't as blunt as the monitors not being compatible with the MBP. I've used my previous MBP with another, older, Dell monitor via a Thunderbolt to VGA adapter with no issue whatsoever. I've scoured the interwebs with the hopes of finding someone with a similar issue, but I've found nobody.

When the dock is defined as on the bottom, it will appear on the screen of the extended desktop that is lowest.
Move the second monitor where the bottom edges are equal or the Dell is lower and the dock will move there.
Regards,
Captfred

My iPad doesn't seem to charge when plugged in to my MacBook Pro if the MBP goes to sleep. My iPhone continues to charge even if the MBP is closed. Is that normal?

My iPad (3rd Gen) seems to stop charging if it is plugged into my MBP if either the iPad is closed or if the MBP goes to sleep. My iPhone charges whether the MBP is awake or asleep or even if the MBP is closed. There is a screen display that shows the iPhone is charging. The iPad only has the tiny icon at the top of the screen that show it is charging. However, the battery's % charged does not increase if the lid is closed when I am charging the iPad if the lid is closed on the iPad or if the iPad off after pressing the on off button. Is this normal?

The quickest way (and really the only way) to charge your iPad is with the included 10W USB Power Adapter. iPad will also charge, although more slowly, when attached to a computer with a high-power USB port (many recent Mac computers) or with an iPhone Power Adapter (5W). When attached to a computer via a standard USB port (most PCs or older Mac computers) iPad will charge very slowly (but iPad indicates not charging). Make sure your computer is on while charging iPad via USB. If iPad is connected to a computer that’s turned off or is in sleep or standby mode, the iPad battery will continue to drain.
Apple recommends that once a month you let the iPad fully discharge & then recharge to 100%.
At this link http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/galaxy-tab-android-tablet,3014-11.html , tests show that the iPad 2 battery (25 watt-hours) will charge to 90% in 3 hours 1 minute. It will charge to 100% in 4 hours 2 minutes. The new iPad has a larger capacity battery (42 watt-hours), so using the 10W charger will obviously take longer. If you are using your iPad while charging, it will take even longer. It's best to turn your new iPad OFF and charge over night. Also look at The iPad's charging challenge explained http://www.macworld.com/article/1150356/ipadcharging.html
Also, if you have a 3rd generation iPad, look at
Apple: iPad Battery Nothing to Get Charged Up About
http://allthingsd.com/20120327/apple-ipad-battery-nothing-to-get-charged-up-abou t/
Apple Explains New iPad's Continued Charging Beyond 100% Battery Level
http://www.macrumors.com/2012/03/27/apple-explains-new-ipads-continued-charging- beyond-100-battery-level/
New iPad Takes Much Longer to Charge Than iPad 2
http://www.iphonehacks.com/2012/03/new-ipad-takes-much-longer-to-charge-than-ipa d-2.html
 Cheers, Tom

How can I edit lightroom 5 smart previews on mac book pro (mbp) when the lightroom 5 master image files are on my external hard drive is disconnected from the mbp

How can I edit lightroom 5 smart previews on mac book pro (mbp) when the lightroom 5 master image files are on my external hard drive is disconnected from the mbp? So far when I try to disconnect the external HD from the mbp, I get the following pop up window: The disk "external hard drive A" couldn't be ejected because "Lightroom" is using it. Quit that application and try to eject this disk again. When I do that and restart Lightroom 5, the Adobe Photoshop Lightroom - Select Catalog screen pops up but doesn't list my external hard drive A as a choice.
I've reviewed Adobe's Lightroom Help | Smart Previews Lightroom 5 web page and still haven't been able to figure what I'm doing wrong. Any help would be appreciated.

Your internal HDD. by default, is named 'Macintosh HD'. From what information you supplied, it looks like there is already a Lightroom catalog installed on you local (internal) HDD using the standard naming convention Adobe uses as well as a Lightroom catalog on your external drive which you created. To be sure of which catalog Lightroom is loading when it starts up, To do this, start Lightroom as you normally would. After it starts, select the Lightroom menu item, then select the Catalog Preferences item and finally, navigate to the General tab. The Location information will tell you exactly what catalog Lightroom is opening by default. This will likely be the Photography Mac Book Pro Versions catalog on your external HDD. Once that is confirmed, you are ready to proceed. As an additional test/verification, you can shut down Lightroom and, this time, start Lightroom while holding down the ALT/OPTION key. This will cause Lightroom to pause and display a screen which will allow you to chose a different catalog to open. Navigate to the /Users/[user name]/Pictures/Lightroom folder and select the Lightroom 5 Catalog.lrcat file. When Lightroom comes up, there should be no previews or folders as this catalog should be empty. Now you can be certain which catalog is being used and which catalog has all your data and you are ready to migrate your current catalog. Shut down Lightroom.
To migrate your current catalog, use Finder to locate your Photography Mac Book Pro Versions folder on your external drive. Select the folder and select COPY from the context menu. Next, use Finder to navigate to the /Users/[user name]/Pictures/Lightroom folder on you internal HDD. You can start at the Macintosh HD level and work your way down by opening each level (Macintosh HD/Users/[user name]/Pictures). Select the /Pictures folder and then select PASTE... from the context menu. When the COPY/PASTE is complete, you should see the following files on the Macintosh HD:
Macintosh HD/Users/[user name]/Pictures/Lightroom/ and
Macintosh HD/Users/[user name]/Pictures/Photography Mac Book Pro Versions
The Macintosh HD/Users/[user name]/Pictures/Lightroom folder will contain the empty default catalog the Adobe created when Lightroom was installed and Macintosh HD/Users/[user name]/Pictures/Photography Mac Book Pro Versions will contain a copy of the catalog you created on your external HDD.
You are almost done now. Make sure your external drive is still attached for this step. Restart Lightroom using the ALT/OPTION key again. When the Select Catalog screen appears, select the Choose a Different Catalog button (lower left side). When you do, a Finder window will open to allow you to navigate to a catalog of your choosing. Navigate to Macintosh HD/Users/[user name]/Pictures/Photography Mac Book Pro Versions and select the file Photography Mac Book Pro Version.lrcat. This is the copy you just created. Select the Open button and Lightroom should start. You should see all of your previews and settings just as before. Also, in the left hand panel, all of your folder should show up and none of them should be dimmed and none of your previews should display a small exclamation point badge. Either a dimmed folder name or an exclamation point badge indicates that Lightroom can't find the associated image file. If everything looks good, go to the Lightroom menu, select Preferences and then select the General tab. Under Default Catalog, select an option to either load the LAST catalog opened or select the Users/[user name]/Pictures/Photography Mac Book Pro Versions catalog from the drop down. Shut down Lightroom and then restart it normally. This time, when Lightroom starts, you should be viewing the new copy of your catalog. You can confirm this by looking at the General tab on the Catalog Preferences screen (Lightroom/Catalog Preferences menu items). Shut down Lightroom once again and this time, eject your external drive before restarting. This time, your folders in the left hand panel will be dimmed but you should be able to work with your smart previews. If Lightroom should display a Select Catalog screen with the external drive detached, double check your settings as it indicates Lightroom is still looking at the copy of the catalog on the external drive rather than the new copy you made.
Finally, if you are seeing dimmed folders and/or exclamation point badges with the external drive attached, this indicates a problem. You can select any folder and select Update Folder Location from the context menu. This will allow you to navigate to the copy on the external drive and select it. Lightroom will then update the catalog (select to synchronize the content). This will not only clear the dimmed folder problem but also remove the exclamation point badges for all photos in that missing folder. However, it may indicate that not all went well with the copy of the catalog so make sure to verify all went well. You can use the Get Info option on the two folders. You should see the same number of files/folders for both the copy on the internal drive as well as on the external drive but you can't rely on the byte count because of the possibility of differences between the geometry of the two drives. Hope this all helps!

Can you lock the SPDIF IN of the MBP to an external SPDIF clock?

I've read a lot of inconclusive posts about this. Can it be done?
The corollary question of course is: can the SPDIF OUT of the MBP sync to a clock at the SPDIF input?
Can both input and output lock to an external SPDIF clock?
TIA

Qzxptl wrote:
OK: once more into the breach... BTW, I really appreciate the followups Pancenter.
Heh... sorry if I misunderstood any of this.
This is the setup:
- The RME Digiface is synced to another device via ADAT Optical sync; it's set up as a slave to that sync signal.
- The Digiface SPDIF Optical (not ADAT: it IS set to SPDIF) out to MBP optical In.
- The Macbook Pro Optical out to Digiface SPDIF Optical In.
But now you have two different clock INPUTS into the Digiface, in fact you are looping the clock signal back in. Even though you have the RME Digiface set to ADAT sync input you are still receivng clock input at s/pdif. You can't have Two Inputs receiving digital clock as there is only ONE clock per device. This setup will not work as "a device receiving digital IN must lock to external that incoming clock." (unless of course there's separate wordclock for all devices)
This sounds similar to the infamous MIDI Y cable I invented in 1985, the one that didn't work!
Unplug the s/pdif out of the Macbook into the RME.
Of course the Digiface settles down, right?
- I can get audio into the MBP this way, no problem.
- I can get audio out of the MBP this way, no problem.
HOWEVER: the SPDIF sync on the DIGIFACE preferences keeps switching between "Sync" and "Lock" every 20 seconds or so indicating that the signal is not perfectly locked to the Digiface clock.
The Digiface clock is nonexistent as it's clock is running off of ADAT clock, whatever that external device is. There is not a separate s/pdif clock output on the Digiface... it's the ADAT clock.
pancenter-

This is a workaround for the MBP wireless issue

There have been many topics on the MBP wireless issues already, but I thought some people might find this workaround helpful.
Firstly, my system is a 2.2Ghz MBP, running 10.4.10, and also airport extreme update 2007-04. I am using an airport express base station. My previous Powerbook never had any wireless problems, so I really couldn't blame the basestation for the MBPs poor wireless.
Warning - The workaround requires a little bit of work in the terminal. A little bit of understanding of how networks work is assumed here as well. So it is probably not for everyone ...
What I have observed - whenever the MBP loses connection, the airport basestation IP and MAC addresses are missing from the ARP table.
- To view the ARP table, type (in a terminal window) arp -a.
So, when the MBP wireless hangs, open up the terminal and type that in.
Do a Cntrl-C if the arp command is hanging and not returning anything.
In normal situations, a list of IP addresses and MAC addresses will show up.
As others have already noted, clicking on the airport icon in the menubar, will magically bring the wireless back to life. When this happens, the ARP table also gets magically populated correctly. Coincidence? I think not!
So, the workaround is to store a PERMANENT entry in the ARP table for the airport basestation IP and MAC address. In my case, I can use the Airport Utility software to confirm what the basestation IP and MAC addresses are (note MAC address = Airport ID in Airport Utility). I found the basestation IP=10.0.1.1 and the MAC=0:11:24:07:d7:f
To create a permanent ARP table entry for my airport basestation, I opened up a terminal window, and did the following -
1) login to my administrator account
2) type in the following command sudo arp -s 10.0.1.1 0:11:24:7:d7:f
3) type in my administrator password to authorise the change
4) type in (to confirm the changes have been made) arp -a
5) logout of my administrator account (from the terminal)
Ever since I did this, my MBP wireless performance has been flawless.
Note, if you shutdown or restart your computer, the arp entry disappears. This is ok for me as I hardly ever power down my MBP. As insurance I have added an account startup item to remind me to do the arp table entry.
This workaround is great for me because I don't have a need to use multiple wireless networks. It might not be practical for people who roam around onto different networks.
Give it a go and see if it works for you.
Message was edited by: michael louey

OK, after some further experimenting, I changed the multicast rate on my airport express. It was set at 6Mbps, and I changed it to 2Mbps.
I have read that the default multicast rate for previous 802.11g versions of Airport basestations is actually 2mbps. Excellent results so far !! I have set up a terminal command to continuously ping my airport router address every 15 sec, and there have been virtually no dropped packets so far over many hours.
ping -i 15 10.0.1.1
Interestingly, in Apple's Airport Admin software in my MBP there is no option to set the rate at less than 6Mbps (!!!!), so I had to use the Windows XP version of Airport admin software to make this change using a windows machine. Using the XP software you can set the muticast rate as low as 1Mbps.
If you are using Apples airport admin software (Tiger and Leopard) and you commit any sort of change in settings, the multicast rate will be re-set at a minimum of 6Mbps. My understanding of the multicast rate is that setting it too high is similar to shrinking the coverage area of the basestation, and limiting access only to clients who can transmit at the required multicast rate.
So my new theory is that the dropouts are caused by the MBP dropping off the airport due to not being able to achieve the set multicast rate. (this could be due to factors such as low signal strength, excessive interference or noise).
If you are using Apples more recent Airport admin software, you are having a minimum 6mbps muticast rate set, and this might be too high for your particular environment.
Just a theory.
(oh yeah, I enabled interference robustness on the MBP and the basestation just for good measure)

HT1661 My mid-2009 MacBook Pro has just died via a painful (for me) hard drive failure. I backed up a good percentage of files recently but not enough to keep me happy. I need to access the dead drive on the MBP via a 2008 iMac. Best options?

My mid-2009 MacBook Pro has just died via a painful (for me) hard drive failure. I backed up a good percentage of files recently but not enough to keep me happy. I need to access the dead drive on the MBP via a 2008 iMac. Best options?
I have ordered a 800 firewire to 800 firewire cable and am hoping to use the target mode option to copy files from the MBP.
Is this possible?
Hope so!
Any advice and or help would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks,
Neil

Thanks Ogelthorpe.
Just bought an enclosure to try that also.
Hoping the MBP isn't really dead but just feigning death
Fingers crossed.

Is it safe to use the MBP in closed clamshell mode?

I've connected my MBP to my LCD TV and started to use it as my desktop.
I'm deactivating the main display of the MBP by putting it into sleep mode and moving my mouse, so it wakes the computer up and shows image only in the TV, keeping the main display turned off.
I'm constantly monitoring the temperatures of the MBP with iStat Menus. It seems that the temperature is always the same, no matter if the main display lid is open or closed.
So, based on these 2 articles:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3131
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1778
Is it really safe to use the MBP with the display lid closed?
If I decide to run a heavy load application (like a game) and the MBP starts to get warm, would it damage the display, because it is too close to the body of the MBP?

Yes it's perfectly safe and designed to be used that way, 90% of the time this one's used in a similar configuration. The only time the fans come on 100% is when I watch Flash-based items from YouTube or similar. I've never run it for any extended length of time with the fans at maximum I must admit but as long as the air flow is good there shouldn't be any problem.

I have dual displays. My dock is on the MBP bottom and the menu bar is on the extended monitors top.

I have a Dell 2408 acting as the main display and a 15" MBP. For some reason, today the dock ended up on the MBP screen at the bottom and the menu bar is on the Dell at the top. I can't seem to move the dock back to the Dell. Can someone help? I tried moving the menu bar to the MBP and then back, hoping the dock would follow but no luck.
Thanks for your help.

When the dock is defined as on the bottom, it will appear on the screen of the extended desktop that is lowest.
Move the second monitor where the bottom edges are equal or the Dell is lower and the dock will move there.
Regards,
Captfred

I made the mistake when configuring a external monitor, of changing the mhz to 75. When I close the MBP I now get a black screen on the monitor. How do I change it back?

I made the mistake when configuring a external monitor, of changing the mhz to 75. When I close the MBP I now get a black screen on the monitor. How do I change it back?
I have a MacBook Pro with the latest operating system, trying to configure a Gateway flat monitor with vga.
Thanks

Apple menu -> System Preferences -> Displays.
System Preferences can also be found in the Hard drive -> Applications folder.
Resetting the PRAM can help bring displays back to factory settings if you can't find what you need:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1379

IBook user - should I go for the mbp?

Ok, I have a 12inch iBook G4 800mhz, 640mb ram. Before people start badmouthing my little baby you sould all know this was my first mac and it was this that made me see the light
Ok so you know my setup. I am at college studying multimedia. For this I use apps such as photoshop, dreamweaver, illustrator and I am starting video next year and would obviosuly be using a video app such as Final Cut. I am only in my first year so its nothing too heavey, but at the same time my iBook is really starting to show its age and next year I have no doubts it will not be able to keep up.
What would you guys recommend? Taking the plunge and getting the Macbook Pro or possibly wait and see what the Macbook has to offer? Im really tempted to go for the pro as it would surely last longer with it being a pro machine. The powerbook 15inch is still an option but once again if im going to fork out £1500 on a laptop on a students budget I want it to last. Does the MBP seem the right choice, or maybe a bit over specced for what I am doing and the MB (when announced) may look a better deal.
Thanks in advance for your comments.

well thats the thing really, money. I am in the market for a new laptop and either way (MB or MBP) I will most probably have to pay through finanicing. If I am to do this over a 2-3 year period it would surely make more sense to go for the mbp right? Am I correct in thinking a pro machine should have a longer lifespan?
I could probably save up and buy a MB (supposing they keep the current ibook prices) but having just passed my driving test and paying for insurance on a car I think financing is the way to go.

How do I connect the MBP?

Hey guys,
I'm new to this so bear with me. I wanna connect my MacBook Pro to a Bose system through the optical digital audio on the MBP. How would i go about doing this? Do I need extra cables? If so, which ones?
this is the Bose system I have at home
[URL="http://www.bose.com/controller?event=VIEWPRODUCT_PAGE_EVENT&product=321gsx_dvdindex"]http://www.bose.com/controller?event=VIEWPRODUCT_PAGE_EVENT&product=321gsx_dvdindex[/URL]
lol....is it even possible to hook up the MBP to this? :confused:
any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks

From the technical specs it looks like you should be able to use the optical inputs. You need to buy an optical input cable. You can buy an one from Apple here: Belkin PureAV Digital Optical Audio Cable with Mini-Toslink Adapter
After that, you just plug it in and make sure that the Sound panel on System Preferences is set to Line Out. It will say Internal Speakers unless you have a cable plugged into the audio out line.
MacBook Pro 2.16 1 GB 100 GB 7200 RPM Mac OS X (10.4.5) Mac mini 1.42 1 GB; PowerMac 450 MHz (Upgd. 1.2 GHz)

If I charge my iPod Touch with an unplugged MacBook Pro, does the MBP discharge more quickly?

It's just a doubt.

It simply would not be smart to charge your iPod from your MacBook Pro when the MBP is unplugged from the main power source. It will quickly discharge your battery - yes, VISIBLY (whatever that may mean) - possibly putting your MBP into deep hibernation mode since the battery will be quickly drained.
Clinton

Does the MBP Late 2006 output 1080p @ 24 Hz?

I'm planning to hook up my MBP Late 2006 model to a Panasonic plasmascreen.
Since the tv supports 1080p/24p Im wondering if the MBP can output 1080p @ 24 Hz? Im planning to use a DVI-I -> HDMI cable.
Thanks in advance
MacBook Pro gen2,2, 15" (Late 2006): http://support.apple.com/kb/sp24
Panasonic TX-P46G30: http://panasonic.net/avc/viera/eu2011/product/g_plasma.html

I just read that DVI does not support Deep Color:
(From Wikipedia)
Features specific to HDMI (such as remote-control, audio transport, xvYCC, and deep-color) are not usable in devices that only support DVI signalling. However, many devices can output HDMI over a DVI output (e.g., ATI 3000-series and NVIDIA GTX 200-series video cards),[2] and some multimedia displays may accept HDMI (including audio) over a DVI input. In general, exact capabilities vary from product to product.
Can the MBP output HDMI over the DVI output?

Tech Specs of the audio input jack? (which is better, an iMic, or the MBP?)

Well because the iMic has such a cheap sounding/terrible audio output....
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2132385&tstart=0
....I am trying to figure out which would be better for the audio INPUT?
I am surprised to see that both the iMic and the combined jack on the 13" MacBook Pro seem to record in stereo, but technical wise, which is better? I DO know that the iMic is better for non-amped mics, that the iMic will pre-amp the signal where as the MBP will only accept line-in signals. So other then that, which is better?
Thanks,
Scott

Well, I sent back the iCrap...I mean iMic. I had to take a loss of $10 but oh well. (stupid apple return policy.)
Anyways, my solution was to buy a similar adapter off ebay for only $7. This USB interface is not a brand name one, it is one of those "china knock-off's" but it works. The Audio output it a lot louder but still slightly distorts like the iMic. However, the audio input works just fine. So my solution is to use BOTH the external USB interface, and the jack on the MBP at the same time. That will give me the best of both worlds. AND, it only cost $7 and came in 3 days, vs the adapter I bought from apple that coast over $35 and took a MONTH to ship.

Is the MBP noisy?

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