Is there a way we can control Display access in SE16 at the row level?

Table MARC has material master data at plant level,i want a user to be able to view only plant A via SE16.SAP has objects to control access in MM03 but how can we control view access in SE16 without totally eliminating the table access.
If not are there any alternatives?Like develop ZSE16 or create a new DB view etc?Appreciate your reply

This link has some info where OB52 is restricted by company code - the principles may apply to your application though you will need to create a transaction for it
http://www.sap-img.com/zf011.htm
it also won't be any use if the user has SE16 or similar - though you don't give these if you want to restrict at any level lower than groups of table
hope that helps
cheers
alex

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Is there a way I can control the resolution of the photos I transfer to the iPad?

Is there a way I can control the resolution of the photos I transfer to the New iPad? I just received the new iPad and would like to reduce the size of the resolution of the pictures I am transferring.
I have storage capacity issue and I am only able to transfer about half the number of pictures I had on original Ipad with the same storage capacity. I upgraded to the New Ipad and I am transferring all the pictures I had in the original Ipad. I do not know why they are not all transfering since the New Ipad got full before all the pictutres where transfered. I used Itunes to transfer the pictures I have in Iphoto . I assume this is because the New Ipad has a higher resolution screen and is allowing the pictures to be transfered automatically to the New Ipad at a higher resolution than the original Ipad?
Any thoughts?
Ed

edgodoy wrote:
However, is there a way I can increase the number of pictures I can transfer to the New Ipad using Itunes?
I have a Canon 7D and the picture are large.
Step my step instructions, would be great if it is at all possible.
What you as is difficult without knowing your exact circumstances, i.e. what format pictures are you sending, do you shoot in .jpg or shoot in RAW and convert to .jpg, etc. However, I don't see a way to quickly reduce the size of your image files without reprocessing your files in some manner.
You could export all of the images to be loaded onto your iPad in JPEG format using Lightroom or Aperture and greatly lower the quality setting in the .jpg export. If you do this make sure you export to a new folder. Lowering the quality can have a huge impact on the size of the image files. If this worked it would give you the advantage of still having the largest amount of pixels allowable on the iPad 3. I found that on my iPad 2 I could 'get away' with setting the quality to around 50 without seeing any obvious changes. A higher quality setting may or may not be required on the iPad 3, time will tell and as my iPad 3 is going back I've not taken the time to put more than a few sample (800 or so) images on it. They were exported at a quality setting of 60 and look as well as can be expected considering my defective iPad 3 display.
If you images are already exported at a lower quality setting and are still too large the next step would be to reduce the dimensions of the image. Lightroom has this capability. I don't know about Aperture, but I assume it does.
My normal workflow with my 7D:
Take picture in RAW.
Transfer to Lightroom 4 converting the Canon RAW files to Adobe's DNG format.
Process images in Lightroom. If any need further processing then export to Photoshop and/or Nik plug-ins.
Export processed images that I wish to have on my iPad to my Pictures folder in .jpg format using a quality setting of 60. I do not reduce the dimension of the image as I want the maximum sized images my iPad will allow. As I only transfer a couple of thousand size is not an issue.
Use iTunes to Sync photos to iPad.
As was mentioned by a previous poster you could use Photoshop to bulk process the photos but that requires both Photoshop and a knowledge of creating a bulk action. Not hard, but very confusing if you haven't used both Photoshop and the bulk process before.
There may be other methods that could work for you but I am not aware of them. With the breadth of experience of the members of this forum perhaps someone else could chime in with suggestions.

Is there a way I can use my external hard drive without the files being transferred on to my computer? as like like my iTunes music being on my hard drive without them being copied onto my computers hard drive ?

is there a way I can use my external hard drive without the files being transferred on to my computer? as like like my iTunes music being on my hard drive without them being copied onto my computers hard drive ? because i dont have that much memory and i wanted my external hard drive to be the source for my music files and not my computer.

Many users keep their iTunes libraries on external drives. You just have to remember to connect and power up the drive before launching iTunes.
iTunes for Mac: Moving your iTunes Media folder:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1449

Hi my names mark.I have the ipad 2 it's on ios 7.1 I had iOS 7.4 but it downgraded to iOS 7.1 is there any way I can upgrade to iOS 7.4 and the 3D effect is gone off my ipad

Hi my names mark.I have the ipad 2 it's on ios 7.1 I had iOS 7.4 but it downgraded to iOS 7.1 is there any way I can upgrade to iOS 7.4 and the 3D effect is gone off my ipad

There isn't an iOS 7.4 - there was a 7.0.4 (and 7.0.6), 7.1 is the current version.
For the parallax effect, do you currently have Settings > General > Accessibility > Reduce Motion set 'on' ?

I've received an email of an unauthorised access which states it was done in Canada, is there any way I can request Apple to inform me what the IP address that made unauthorised access was?

I've received an email of an unauthorised access which states it was done in Canada, is there any way I can request Apple to inform me what the IP address that made unauthorised access was?
I want to know as it possibly relates to other security issues I've had of late and it would help further my investigation. Would a subject access request possibly allow me to recieve this information? As far as I know there's no way to see a list of when and where I sign in using my Apple ID?

Sorry but no, Apple cannot give you that information. The only way they could give anyone such an IP address would be if they received a court order to do so, if even then; I don't know what sort of tracking and logs they do.
However, if this email claimed that someone had tried to reset your password and in any way gave you a link to click to confirm your account information, the email was almost certainly a phish. Such phishing messages have been quite common over the last two or three weeks and should be deleted without responding. You may wish to manually type in the URL for Apple's page for managing an Apple ID and change your password, just as a precaution, and make sure you've set good security questions using responses that can't just be looked up for you (they don't have to be real information; you can use any response you wish as long as you can remember what you entered).
Regards.

HT1539 my daughter has taken the insert page with redemption code out of the dvd case and we cannot find it. is there any way i can still download my digital copy of the movie in itunes?

We Have managed to lose the insert page that came with our dvd and digital copy. Is there a way i can still download the digital copy without the redemption code?

Please please help me, if you know how.

Is there any way I can control which specific access point I connect (and stay connected) to from amongst a set of access points with the same SSID?

I'm working from a boat in a harbor in which the ISP has deployed numerous access points around the periphery. All the access points share the same SSID and each is configured to use either channel 1, 6 or 11. From my location, there are over a dozen of these access points "visible" (based on the the output of WiFi Scanner) with a range of RSSI and S/N values that vary over time.
The ISP has told me that the quality of my connection should be "perfectly fine" for any access point with an RSSI value better than -75, but I know from experience that my connection quality is miserable (i.e. < 50Kbps download) for almost all of these, including those with RSSI values better than -75. There is at least one exception, however, which gives me on the order of 2Mbps download, which is "great" in this context.
I've tried using a more powerful USB antenna plugged into my MacBook Air (mid 2011), but as far as I can tell, it really doesn't make much difference. Neither does my location within the boat. The overriding factor seems to be which access point I happen to connect up to.
I should point out that the closest access points are about 75 yards away, with many of them being several hundred yards away or more. I'm guessing that even though the signal strength of some of the distant access points is causing them to get "chosen" some times, the results are unacceptable due to the distance.
I'm hoping that I can determine, through experimentation, which access point(s) provide(s) acceptable performance and then configure my Mac to limit my connection to those points through whatever mechanism I need to use (e.g. channel, MAC id, etc.).

Establishing a wireless connection with a client computer is left to the access point for various reasons. One reason that your Mac may not connect to the strongest access point is that it may have reached a limit of the number of clients it can serve, leaving it unable to accept a connection with another. The limit may not be very large.
Suppose that happens, and your Mac establishes a connection with a more distant access point having a weaker signal. Then, suppose a client drops off the network. Doesn't this mean your Mac will switch to the stronger access point? Not necessarily. The throughput delivered to and from your Mac would have to drop below a threshold specified in the AP for it to drop the client, leaving your Mac free to connect with another one. The reason for this is to prevent rapid switching from one AP to another in an area in which two signals are of approximately equal quality. If that were to occur the frequent and repetitive handshaking between the two devices would slow throughput to zero.
In an environment in which several access points are broadcasting the same SSID, Apple provides no insight as to how it determines which access point to choose. This is the reason I suspect this "choice" is a function of the router, or access point. The connection originates with it, not the Mac.
Now, what would solve your dilemma would be to determine a way to control the access point with which your Mac connects, by specifying the access point's unique MAC address for example. In this happy circumstance, you could maintain an editable "whitelist" or "blacklist" of the harbor's access points and be able to choose which among them you prefer.
I do not believe OS X maintains such a record of MAC addresses though, only those of the routers it uses. If I am correct about that, such a solution is unlikely to exist. Don't let that discourage you from searching for one though... I would concentrate on something like "selecting access point by specific MAC address".
I did find this patent application though:
Roaming Network Stations Using A Mac Address Identifier To Select New Access Point
Perhaps it's a start

Is there a way I can set my iPad up to require the password for each purchase?

Yesterday I bought an in-app purchase for my son who is 3. I thought he was just playing the new game and then realized he was buying everything in the game bc after I put in the password for one purchase he didn't need it again to keep shopping. He spend about $150 bc he was just clicking buy, buy, buy, buy etc. Is there a way to set it up so the password has to be entered each time to prevent this in the future?

Go into the settings, general, restrictions and lock out in app purchases.
THen under allowed content you can set the 'require password' for immediately
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My husband and I are separated, but still using the same App Store account. Is there any way I can create a new account but keep the apps (and, more importantly, the data in those apps)?

I have budgeting and home management apps that contain lots of data and I would like to retain these apps and the data when we split our App Store accounts. Is there any way to do that? I don't want to have to go and buy the apps again - this includes all the kids' games that we bought on the account.

PrettyPettyThings wrote:
Thanks. Well I retain the data if I purchase the app again?
That depends on the app and where the app's data are stored. I think if you back up the phone, delete the app, purchase it again using your Apple ID, then restore the backup you will get your data back. But I cannot guarantee it.

My iPod was stolen yesterday. Is there any way I can delete my e-mail account from the iPod?

My iPod Touch was stolen last night. Unfortunately, on my iPod was my e-mail account, which was synced to the "Mail" app. I don't want the thief to be able to access my e-mail, so I changed my e-mail password on Gmail.
But is there anything else I can do? I'm scared that even though I changed the password, the Mail app will still be able to access my Gmail account.
The same goes for Twitter, for me.
Thanks so much for your help in advance.

You can wipe the iPod only if you had already set up ther FindMyiPod feature. and wifi is on and some other conditions are met.
Apple - iPod touch - How to set up Find My iPod touch
Change the passwords for other accounts on the iPod
Unles you have a screen-lock passcode, the conents of your iPod will be available. to anyone with access to the iPod.
Report it to the police.
See:
Reporting a lost or stolen Apple product

Is there a way I can have more than one tab of the same website open?

It seems kind of silly that I'm not allowed to turn off the feature where it switches to the tab that is already open of that site, even if it is in a different window. Sometimes I need to have duplicates of a site open, like alarm clocks, or certain info sites.

There's no reason why you shouldn't have multiple tabs of the same site open if you want to.
Can you do the following first of all. Go to http://get.adobe.com/flashplayer/ and update Flash.
If the problem persists in spite of the above, try running Firefox in [[Safe Mode]]. If it functions properly in that configuration, then one of your add-ons is the culprit.

On the back button is the little drop down arrow completely gone, or is there a way I can I get it back. With the new Firefox I have to keep hitting back over and over again?

Is the back button drop down arrow replaced by the little arrow next to the star on the bar?
Maybe it didn't install correctly, I have Windows XP if that makes a difference. I know from the tour when the new one loaded there is supposed to be a bookmarks thing next to the new location for home but it's not on there either. It's still on my toolbar so I don't care enough to fix it so there is no need for anyone to address it, I just put the info in case it tells you something about it not installing properly.
Sorry, it's not easy for older people to keep up with all the daily website changes, adding browser changes adds to the confusion. I hope my head doesn't explode one day. Thank you for the help.

You can get the drop down list by either right-clicking on the back/forward buttons, or holding down the left button until the list appears.
If you want the drop-down arrow you can add it with the Back/forward dropmarker add-on - https://addons.mozilla.org/firefox/addon/backforward-dropmarker

Is there a way i can move Minimize/Maximize/Close buttons to the left of Firefox v30?

I would prefer them on the left side of Firefox instead of the right side.
I'm using windows 7, Firefox v30

Hmm, it worked on a "Basic" Windows 7 theme, but I can't see a way to move the buttons on an "Aero" theme.

Someone stole my ipod is there a way i can find it or track it with the serial number

my ipod touch got stolen, and i was wondering if there was a way to track it cause the police arnt doing any thing. i have the serial number.

What To Do If Your iDevice or Computer Is Lost Or Stolen
If your Mac, iPhone, iPod, iPod Touch, or iPad is lost or stolen what do you do? There are things you should do in advance - before you lose it or it's stolen - and some things to do after the fact. Here are some suggestions:
Reporting a lost or stolen Apple product
What-To-Do-When-Iphone-Is-Stolen
Lost or Stolen iPhone? Here’s What to do.
6 Ways to Track and Recover Your Lost/Stolen iPhone
It pays to be proactive by following the advice on using Find My Phone before you lose your device:
Find My iPhone
Setup your iDevice on MobileMe
OS X Lion- About Find My Mac
How To Set Up Free Find Your iPhone (Even on Unsupported Devices)

Hello I have a 3G and a 4G iphone, purchased in Australia where I lived. But, now I am living in the USA. I understand both iphones from Australia have GSM language - Is there any way I can use either of these iphones in the USA?

Hello I lived in Australia for 3.5 years, using a 3G and a 4G iphone. In April I moved back to the USA and would like to use one of these iphones. I understand Australia iphones use a GSM language and AT&T is the only carrier that will allow me to use for the GSM. When trying to sign up with AT&T, the SIM card would not work. When visiting Apple in Walnut Creek, CA, they said that these iphones I have cannot be used in the USA.
Before moving back to the USA, I visited the Apple Store near Sydney and they said I could unlock them to use them in the USA. THey did something with the 3G iphone, but when I was at AT&T in Walnut Creek, I could not get the 3G to work.
Bottom line: can I use either my 3G or 4G iphone that I bought in Australia here in the USA?
Thank you for your help.
KInd regards,
Susan Williams

You should contact the carrier (in Austrailia I presume) to which they are locked to as they are the only ones that can unlock your iPhone.

Is there a way we can control Display access in SE16 at the row level?

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