Is this healthy?

PC Allert 4 reports the following:
Vcore: 1.73
3.3V: 3.22V
+5V: 4.78V
+12V: 11.64V
It all seems a bit low.
It's also reporting the following temps:
CPU: 59C
System: 37C
Which seems a bit high.
I'm using an nforce1 with onboard graphics/sound +512 (2*256) PC2100 Crucial mem + 350W AOpen PSU + Akasa Silver Mountain (standard paste) + two case fans in a standard configuration. Using the latest drives available through live update (2.29).
I only reason I ask is that I have started playing GP4 and I'm getting reboots after a few minutes of racing. I've played the game three times and I've had two reboots. I don't get a black screen like some people have mentioned in this forum or a BSOD but a complete reboot. I haven't played any games on my PC for a while but I used to play RTCW with no problems.
So guys/gals do I need a new PSU, some arctic silver or is it something else? Any help/advice is appreciated. By the way GP4 is a bit of a disappointment I think I will be sticking to GT3.

Hi r2d2d3d4d5 -
Your voltages are reasonable. Anything within 10% of spec should be adequate.
Your CPU temperature is a little high - but well within the safety zone for AMD CPU's. Artic silver and/or a better quality HSF will probably shave off a few degrees.
You may want to go to http://www.nvidia.com and download the version 2.0 reference drivers -- these are much more stable and have corrected problems of Black Screen of Death and rebooting during games for many users. The 2.0 reference drivers are substantially newer than the 2.29 version on MSI's website.
As for your power supply, post the make and model and the voltages off the label on it -- surely someone will be along to give you advice as to whether or not it's adequate for your system.
Jef

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Imac intel 2 core duo running at 117 Fº. Is this healthy?

my imac intel 2 core duo running at 117 Fº. Is this healthy? The fan speeds are ODD: 998 CPU: 1198 HDD: 1199.

What you need to understand is that your processor has two different temperatures. The temperature that escapes when it leaves the processor dye is called the t case. The temperature for each core is called the tcore. If your processor temp were to be a problem one or two things can happen. The system will shut down immediately to protect itself. For quad core temperatures for example, it will shut itself down at some point at 75-80 degrees Celcius. Operating temperature of about 40-60 C when the system is fully stressed is a target temperature.

I already have 590 battery cycles.80 % capacity. the MBP is only 1 year old. is this healthy? any tips?

i already have 590 battery cycles. the MBP is only 1 year old. is this healthy? any tips? Im already at 80% capacity.

battery cycles dont mean anything except in the old age of the battery
short term abuse kills a battery, NOT battery cycles.
General consideration of your MacBook battery
Contrary to popular myths about notebook batteries, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot ‘overcharge’ your notebook when plugged in and already fully charged.
However if you do not plan on using your notebook for several hours, turn it off (plugged in or otherwise), since you do not want your Macbook ‘both always plugged in and in sleep mode’.
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium-Ion cells the "80% Rule", meaning use 80% of the full charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life. The main quantified damage done in the use of Lithium Ion batteries are instances where the internal notebook battery is “often drained very low”, this is bad general use of your notebook battery.
A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 40% remaining of a 100% charge has a better battery condition state than, say, another person who has 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 10-15% remaining on a 100% charge. DoD (depth of discharge) is much more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook’s battery than the count of charge cycles. There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in specific. Frequent high depth of discharge rates (draining the battery very low) on a Lithium battery will hasten the lowering of maximum battery capacity.
All batteries in any device are a consumable meant to be replaced eventually after much time, even under perfect use conditions.
If the massive amount of data that exists on lithium batteries were to be condensed into a simplex, helpful, and memorable bit of information it would be:
1. While realistically a bit impractical during normal everyday use, a lithium battery's longevity and its chemistry's health is most happy swinging back and forth between 20% and 85% charge roughly.
2. Do not purposefully drain your battery very low (10% and less), and do not keep them charged often or always high (100%).
3. Lithium batteries do not like the following:
A: Deep discharges, as meaning roughly 10% or less on a frequent basis.
B: Rapid discharges as referring to energy intensive gaming on battery on a frequent basis (in which case while gaming, if possible, do same on power rather than battery). This is a minor consideration.
C: Constant inflation, as meaning always or most often on charge, and certainly not both in sleep mode and on charge always or often.
From Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."

Spinning up and down lots, is this healthy?

Hi there,
I've had a TC Dual Band (500GB) for a few months now. I'm really pleased with it (except for the slight niggle I could have 1TB for the same money, lol)...
My only worry is that the hard drive spins up and down a lot. It does one machine's backup, then after about 5 minutes it spins down. Then another machine needs a backup, and it's spinning up again within a couple of minutes (it's sat on top of a side unit and makes the whole unit hum so I can hear it quite clearly!)
I always thought that it wasn't good for hard discs to spin up and down a lot because they wear out more quickly... Is it something I should be concerned about, am I going to have to replace the hard drive sooner than I'd expect?
Thanks!
:-Joe

...and you don't have your old gpu?
You do realize that not all PC cards play well, and that you read up and researched before setting on this one? even different versions and makes of the same "model" or card series differ.
AMD cards may have two BIOS, legacy and UEFI.
Thought about sending it to MacVidCards or checking?
AHT does not test GPU.
There have been issues with heatsink and paste or with upgrades - very popular to flash firmware and throw in new cpu(s)
Mac Pro 2009 upgrade running hot - MacRumors Forums
2009 Mac Pro 12-Core CPU Upgrade (Dual 3GHz Xeon X5675)
2009 8-Core Upgrade... The De-Lidded Route - MacRumors Forums
Nehalm processors with their HT can jump 20*C just launching an app or files
To see what the processor temps are, and there are many sensors and ways to monitor, you would need something more like Hardware Monitor
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/16609/hardware-monitor

What to know before rebuilding your credit with secured credit cards

The higher your original CL, the higher they can be raised to new higher CLs. I remember using Open Sky secured card and the $200 CL never went up in a 6 months. I got a CreditOne card with a $300 CL and was increased to $500 within 3 months. Not surprisingly, when I applied for Capital One nonsecured cards, I started at $500 (the highest CL of my two secured cards). Your available credit is a factor in your score so the more money you can put into these cards, the better - bc your score will be higher and will give you a better foundation of starting CL in the future.
Keep in mind, there are of many fees associated with SCCs and make sure to take that into account from the get go. This can range to annual fees to monthly charges to even transactiom costs when you swipe. Read the fine print and find a reasonable card without outrageous fees. I beleive I used CreditOne bc they didn't cost as much as others.
When starting out, an upfront fee may kill your utilization the first month. For instance, if you have a $49 CL and upfront annual fee is $27, you're already at 54% utilization. And if you pay that immediately, it won't matter bc your remaining available credit will still be $22 and your first month reported to the bureaus will show high utilization (or in any lenders eye's - high risk). So find out what upfront fees will hit the first month and depsit enough money to stay under 30% UTIL. Build a healthy habit of not crossing 30% utilization and pay your cards off 10 days before they're due the first time around bc some companies take up to a week post your payment and you never want to be late. This way you know how to time your payments.
The amount of credit accounts also is a factor in your score so if you can afford to, get two or more. The best way to do this is apply for one, make your first payment that will typically include your upfront annual fee. Wait for that payment to clear, then apply for another card. Lenders see payments will often grant you cards with signs you pay your balances. This healthy process of applying for CCs can be used with the regular CCs you will be eligible for, usually in 6 months time.
Keep in mind that your reporting date is usually 3 days after your statement date and timing is key. Let's say you have a $300 card. You've used $75 to stay under 30% and you know your due date is the 20th of the month. You make a payment on the 16th for $75 and it posts on the 19th returning your balance to $0. The next day, your due date, the day closes in good standing. Within a 3-10 days the balance will reflect your credit report. Try to use 1-9% (or 29% max) of your CL in this window bc having 1-9% UTIL reporting is better $0 reporting and you don't have to carry a balance and pay interest. These rebuilder cards prey on those who cannot manage their cards. But that's not you bc you know the game and are here to beat the system.
You want move to $0 annual fee CCs asap so feel free to apply for unsecured CCs within 6 months. Capital One is known grant cards and forgive for past mistakes so apply there after 6 months if you're not aware of bettet options.
It also ould be a good idea to take $500 and deposit as a CD with your bank and use that as collateral for a secured credit card. Its the same concept as a secured card but you get interest back with your original deposit.
Hope this helps someone.
Much love,.
Romulus

Personally, I would keep your utilization down to 10% or less for a few months and lie low, just showing responsible card usage. Keep checking the Capital One prequalification page after that, and once you become prequalified for the unsecured Platinum, take the chance, as the prequals are usually pretty solid.
When you get your unsecured Platinum, use it a whole lot and either pay in full every month, or, like with your secured, keep it at 10%-below. Meanwhile, definitely pay your secured in full every month. At about 5 months, if you displayed heavy (but responsible) usage, they should give you a pretty good CLI--I often see people go from $300 to $1500.
By then you should probably have your charge-off paid for, so, while it won't remove it off of your report, it will help. You'll also have a decent unsecured card, and by then I would feel comfortable applying for another card and maybe closing your secured card after that, since it unfortunately won't graduate.
BoA has a secured card that will graduate, but their prequalification page is utter garbage, so you'll be taking a huge chance by applying, and there will be a chance at denial even with recon. However, if you do get it, it will be great to have an evolving credit card in your hand, as you won't have to close the line (as I'm sure you'll eventually need to do with the Capital One).
I dunno, I'm a pretty conservative person when it comes to this credit game, so my offered plan might be a bit lukewarm, but I think it might be pretty solid for you. Good luck, you can do this!

Mac Pro operating temps

hello,
i just got home form college for break. i store my mac pro in the basement at home. its very very cold down there. im afraid to run the machine form cold. i realize that apple says operation temp is 50 degrees min. at the moment its 61 here. is it ok to run my machine w/o putting too much stress? bc i realize as soon as i turn on the tem goes to 80+ and 99~ inside. is this healthy? please let me know.
God Bless
merry christmas

Basically you need to have the COMPUTER at 50 or above. It's mainly to keep the condensation from forming and shorting something out or the hardware inside from expanding too fast and breaking/cracking from heating up too quick.
It's the worst case scenario but why take the chance. It mainly depends on the humidity. If your in a dry State then not too big an issue but if your in the NW or SE then could be a problem.
Next time when you first get home just bring the computer upstairs and by the time you get things situated it should have warmed up enough.
Enjoy your stay....

CMYK "Rich Black" information and Tips

Hello folks,
I have been trying to create a "Rich Black" swatch to use with my Adobe Illustrator creations, but after a lot of online research, I find that there are many diffrent opinions out there. I figure I start this discussion, so that all of the information that we all share, can be available for a lot of Adobe users on this forum.
1. What is your favorite CMYK "Rich Black" pertentage formula?
2. When shoud be use "Rich Black" and when should we avoid it?
3. Would you use "Rich Black" for digital prints?
4. What else can you tell us about your experiences with Adobe Illustrator artwork and using or not using "Rich Black"?
I am hoping that this healthy discussion will be able to help many people for years to come.
Cheers,
Bill

As far as I know the Pantone inks can be used only on offset printing technology but most of the jobs for offset printing is from CMYK separations. It will be forbiddingly expensive to print images like photos containing a full gamut of colors with hundreds of Pantone inks while they can be printed with only four CMYK inks. And for a lot of images it will be simply impossible to print only with Pantone inks because although the Pantone colors have wider gamut (much more saturated) colors than process colors, Pantone doesn’t have that much colors to cover all colors available in the CMYK color space.
Prints with Pantone inks will be less expensive if printing with less than four colors, which is suitable for only a small fraction of all images being printed. But if printed with one color and it is black, in my experience the K ink from the four CMYK inks is less expensive than the Pantone black which of course will be rich - they put in the ink a lot of colors and they charge more for that but it is worth it. However, one Pantone color black or not will be less expensive than two runs from the CMYK colors.
Digital presses do not use Pantone inks, but with the ever improving technology some have very wide gamut producing much more saturated colors than the CMYK offset press and thus they can simulate more closely and often exactly a lot of Pantone colors using inks produced for the digital printer.

Sir, We have around 500 items as Insurance Spares in the stores. These spares are checked once in 6 months for their healthiness, storage, etc with a special checklist. We want this checklist an schedule in SAP ( MM). How to do it? Please help.

Sir, We have around 500 items as Insurance Spares in the stores. These spares are checked once in 6 months for their healthiness, storage, etc with a special checklist. We want this checklist an schedule in SAP ( MM). How to do it? Please help.We are presently doing it as similar to PM schedule ( PM module) but want it in MM module.

Hi Prerna
Please refer the this doc ...it might help you
http://www.erptips.com/Samples/ERPtips-SAP-Training-Manual-SAMPLE-CHAPTER-from-Basic-Quality-Management.pdf
and kindly update the status if it works or not
Regards
Partha

Is this a healthy Geekbench score?

What say you?
Benchmark Summary Single-core   Multi-core
Integer Score              3037 38110
Floating Point Score       2939 39373
Memory Score               1973   4071
Geekbench Score            2785 31807
System Information
Operating System      Mac OS X 10.9.5 (Build 13F34)
Model                 MacPro5,1
Model ID              MacPro5,1
Motherboard           Apple Inc. Mac-F221BEC8
Processor             Intel Xeon X5690 @ 3.46 GHz
                        2 Processors, 12 Cores, 24 Threads
Processor ID          GenuineIntel Family 6 Model 44 Stepping 2
L1 Instruction Cache 32.0 KB x 6
L1 Data Cache         32.0 KB x 6
L2 Cache              256 KB x 6
L3 Cache              12.0 MB
Memory                64.0 GB 1333 MHz DDR3
BIOS                  Apple Inc.     MP51.88Z.007F.B03.1010071432
Compiler              Clang 5.0 (clang-500.2.76)
Thanks for looking,
f

See:
http://browser.primatelabs.com/mac-benchmarks

Is this considered a healthy battery? i only just got this MacBook Pro about 5 Months ago

Battery Information:
Model Information:
Serial Number:          9G24603NKD3MB
Manufacturer:          DP
Device Name:          bq20z451
Pack Lot Code:          0
PCB Lot Code:          0
Firmware Version:          201
Hardware Revision:          2
Cell Revision:          158
Charge Information:
Charge Remaining (mAh):          3691
Fully Charged:          No
Charging:          No
Full Charge Capacity (mAh):          5546
Health Information:
Cycle Count:          163
Condition:          Normal
Battery Installed:          Yes
Amperage (mA):          -1075
Voltage (mV):          11581

This depends on what you are doing with the system. Try dimming the display half-way, and quitting all applications. Then wait a few minutes and see how much battery time is remaining. If it is still low, then try disabling Bluetooth and WiFi (turn the services off completely) to see if that changes the calculated battery life at all.

I have an HP Pavilion 500-267c, can I install a second hard drive in this PC ?

My XP tower is no longer working but there is some information on the hard drive that I would like to retrieve, my present
PC uses Windows 7 operating system. Can my old hard drive be installed into the new HP without ruining the new
computer or the old hard drive ?
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Yes, this assumes that the old XP hard drives is healthy.
You may use a USB external hard rive caddy for the old drive or you can directly connect it through the SATA port on you MoBo on you new computer. 99% of the time there will be extra power connections from the power supply on your new machine to power the old drive.
All this assumes that the old drive is SATA interface _ it may be IDE, in which case you would need an adapter to hook it directly to the new computers MoBo.
I don't believe there are any IDE USB external hard drive caddies, although you may want to check to be sure.
The one on top is SATA and the bottom is IDE.

Hi, I'm having a problem with my first gen. iPad switching back to the apps page by itself. This started after upgrading to ios5. It will do this from safari or kindle. I have turned it off manually as suggested by a tech rep. without any improvement.

Hi,
My 1stgen iPad keeps. Switching back to the apps. Pages by itself after installing ios5. I have shut it down manually as suggestedby a tech rep but the problem still exists.
Thanks, Jim

1) This is because of software version 1.1. See this
thread for some options as to how to go back to 1.0,
which will correct the problem...
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=3754
59&tstart=0
2) This tends to happen after videos. Give the iPod a
minute or two to readjust. It should now be more
accurate.
3) This?
iPod shows a folder icon with exclamation
point
4) Restore the iPod
5) Try these...
iPod Only Shows An Apple Logo and Will Not Start
Up
iPod Only Shows An Apple Logo
I think 3,4, and 5 are related. Try the options I
posted for each one.
btabz
I just noticed that one of the restore methods you posted was to put it into Disk Mode First rather than just use the resstore straight off, I Have tried that and seems to have solved the problem, If it has thank you. previously I have only tried just restoring it skipping this extra step. Hope my iPod stays healthy, if it doesnt its a warrenty job me thinks any way thanks again

My Macbook won't start, and I must reinstall the disk. I haven't used time machine to back up, and I want to use an external drive to back up now. How can i do this from the utilities page?

I am currently in Zambia on missions work and my computer is constantly exposed to heat. I have just been trying to avoid using it during the hottest part of the day. Today though, I started it up and it was stuck on the grey page with the rotating circle for over an hour, then once the circle left, it remained frozen on the gray page. I used command + r at startup to go to the utilities page to analyze the disk. It found that there were problems with the disk, but then it could not fix those problems and told me to backup as much information as I could and reinstall or redo it all. I haven't ever used time machine to back up any of my information, but i have an external drive that I can use right now to backup my files. I can't get into my computer though to backup the files. How can I use this external drive to backup my files while the computer is currently messed up? Please help.

Emergency Backups (Data Recovery)
A)          Format an external disk:
          (This will erase all data on the external disk.)
          Boot in recovery mode (power then Command-R).
                    Alternative: Network recovery boot (power then Command-Option-R keys)
          To format (and erase) the destination recovery disk:
          Plug in the drive you are about to erase.
          Select the volume that is NOT your system disk.
          Click on Partition.
          Pull down under Partition Layout to 1 Partition.
          Click on Options…
          Select GUID Partition Table.
          Name: Emergency Backup (or whatever you prefer)
          Format: Select Mac OS Extended (journaled)
          Click Apply.
          Click Partition.
B)          Try to boot in Safe Mode (power then Shift key).
          (This will be a slow boot. Be patient.)
          If it won’t boot in Safe Mode, jump to C.
          If it boots in Safe Mode, try to boot in normal mode.
                    If that fixed your problem then start a Time Machine backup.
                    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1427
                    https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4055
          If not, boot in Safe Mode again.
          Go > Computer.
          Double click on the system disk.
          Drag the Users folder to the recovery disk.
C)          To clone the disk:
          Boot in recovery mode.
          Select Disk Utility.
          Try to repair the system disk twice.
          Whether or not the repair succeeds:
          Drag and drop the system disk to Source:
          Drag an drop Emergency Backup to Destination:
          (Take care not to reverse this order.)
          Click Restore (the lower Restore button).
Once your system is healthy, maintain two reasonably current backups. (Time machine restores can fail.)
Create either two Time Machine backups (good) or one or more Time Machine backup(s) and one or more bootable-clone backup(s) (better).
          Use Carbon Copy Cloner or SuperDuper! to create bootable-clone recovery disks.
          See https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3045
          and https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-6031

I'm having problems (1)selecting onscreen text, (2) having problems resizing menu boxes and selecting menues with the cursor. I'm not able to select menus and move them. I'm not sure how to correct this.

I'm having problems (1) selecting onscreen text, (2) resizing menu boxes and selecting menues with the cursor. I'm not able to select menus and move them. I'm not sure how to correct this.

1) This is because of software version 1.1. See this
thread for some options as to how to go back to 1.0,
which will correct the problem...
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=3754
59&tstart=0
2) This tends to happen after videos. Give the iPod a
minute or two to readjust. It should now be more
accurate.
3) This?
iPod shows a folder icon with exclamation
point
4) Restore the iPod
5) Try these...
iPod Only Shows An Apple Logo and Will Not Start
Up
iPod Only Shows An Apple Logo
I think 3,4, and 5 are related. Try the options I
posted for each one.
btabz
I just noticed that one of the restore methods you posted was to put it into Disk Mode First rather than just use the resstore straight off, I Have tried that and seems to have solved the problem, If it has thank you. previously I have only tried just restoring it skipping this extra step. Hope my iPod stays healthy, if it doesnt its a warrenty job me thinks any way thanks again

Accidently disconnected ipod without ejecting, now it only shows recent purchases. I can see 40 gig of original library but its listed as other not audio. Is this retrievable audio data or is it lost. I have no backup what can I do to restore my ipod?

I accidently disconected my ipod from my pc. When I plugged it back up I only had limited access to my library. I had over 40gb of audio data that now when I go to the summary page of my pod it shows up as other, only the audio that I have recently purchased from itunes is accessible. Is the 40gb retrievable and can some one please tell me step by step what I need to do. My collection took over a year to put together and there is no backup file.

"Other" is the measure of used space on the iPod not taken up by Audio, Video & Photos. This includes the iPod's library and artwork plus any files you may have copied to your iPod in disk mode. The overhead for the library & artwork data is typically 1-2% of the size of the media, e.g. for 1Gb of Audio & Video expect to have around 15mb of "Other". This information is needed for the iPod's operation and cannot be removed.
If you have significantly larger amounts of "Other", not related to files you've intentionally placed on the iPod, then these are probably disconnected copies of your media files or iPod libraries left over from failed sync operations. The only way to recover the space is to do a full restore.
If you have copies of all your media in your iTunes library this isn't a problem, but if you've been manually managing the content then you might need to try to recover the files from it first. See this post by forum regular Zevoneer on transferring files from the iPod to your computer. Some of the tools rely on the iPod having a healthy library however the manual method mentioned towards the end of the post should work regardless.
tt2

Is this healthy?

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