Is Vimeo The Best Website For HD Movie Posting?

I wanna post my movie in the best way possible and Vimeo now supports films hd in 1280x720 format and that is alot better than youtube of course and while I do want the film on my own website I'm told that I would have to pay alot if I get lots of hits while if I put it on this site I dont have to worry about it. Thanks for the tips.

once it's fully loaded into QT I can do a Save As
Then it's not a streaming video. Apple Keynotes for example, are streamed.
Think of it in the same way as traditional television -the signal is sent to your set but not actually stored anywhere. I know you have a VCR, pretend for a moment that you don't.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2438?viewlocale=en_US
Message was edited by: Nick Holmes -found a better link

Similar Messages

What is the best setting for export movie in widescreen format?

Please tell me what is the best setting for exporting movie in Widescreen format?

Like in After effect we use "NTSC D1 Widescreen Square Pixel".,
Carefully examine the codec and pixel dimensions of that output file. That's certainly easy for an experienced VFX person like yourself.
Then carefully look over the presets in FCP to find the same attibutes. You can also use the online help system for FCP and search for "D1"
However, your question remains unanswerable because we don't know how you're getting to the monitor. What are you playing back you AE sequences on that displays them on your LCD? You're assuming we know what you're doing and, I assure you, we do not.
bogiesan

Where is the best websites for NGAGE N95 GAMES?

Where is the best websites for NGAGE N95 GAMES?
any links would be cool, I dont mind paying for a game if its highly rated and I can test it out. I like a high quality driving games, shootem ups, 3D doom wad type stuff..
and how about a MAME ROM ARCADE CLASSICS for N95!!
Defender on your N95 using wide screen virtualy impossible to play but would look nice. obviously the simpler games should work fine.
N95-1 (8GB-MicroSD),LCG-Audio,Fring,Nimbuzz,Skype,Youtube,iPlayer,Garmin4-GPS.Googlemaps,SkyFire,ZoneTag,Gravity, Sennheiser CX-400-IIs,500-IIs,TR-120 Wireless,HD215'S.AudioTechnica ATX-M50's.BT B-Tube BT Speaker.

05-Jun-2008 02:07 PM
ka05com wrote:
Where is the best websites for NGAGE N95 GAMES?
Is this a trick question? N-Gage games are only available from www.n-gage.com
Are you talking about other non n-gage games such as java based games? if so try www.gameloft.com or google.
If you are looking to play retro games then this article will be of interest to you.

What's the best workflow for Home Movie Importing and Enjoying?

I'm new to iMovie (and the mac) and have started importing all my home movies from my camcorder into iMovie. I quickly realized that movies take a huge amount of disk space and it may or may not be reasonable to import all my movies and keep them on the hard disk in .dv format. At 12GB/Hour I would need 1.2 Terabytes of storage (plus backup). If that is the best workflow, i'm happy to invest in a few terabytes of storage and back up. But before I do that, I want to check to see if there is a different workflow I should follow given my use case.
Here is my use case:
I have 100 hours of 8mm and miniDV tapes already and plan to continue creating more.
I want to import them all into the iMac for ease of organization, searching for the clips of interest, and watch them either on my iMAC and also on my TV (via TIVO).
I may do some editing, but this is not a big priority for me at this time. I may do more editing in the distant future when I have more time. My editing for now will be limited to rejecting portions of clips I don't want.
I plan to watch the movies from my iMac on my TV via my TIVO (i've already ordered the Roxio Toast software that I understand I need, per the Tivo web site).
The final piece of my use case is back-up. I'd prefer to back up my movies on disk this way I maintain any editing i've done in case of a disk failure. Depending on what video format is recommended, this may bump me into a RAID multi-terabyte system as both working and automatic backup?
Here are my questions:
Should I maintain my event library in .dv format? (and bite the bullet on the storage)
Or is the .dv format intended only for temporary editing and users are expected to compress into another format after editing? if so, what format and which tool is recommended? (keeping in mind that I want to view the clips via Tivo and Roxio/Toast).
If I need to byte the bullet and invest in storage, my quick math suggests I'll need about 2 terabytes for the library and 2 more for back up for a total of 4 terabytes!?. Is a RAID system recommended for this? (I was surprised that the Apple store did not carry such a system, so perhaps that is not the best option). What would you recommend?
Anyone out there with a similar use case? I know I've asked a lot of questions here. I'd appreciate any recommendations you may have, even if you cant answer all of them.
Thank you.

I am in a similar mode, though about half as much existing DV footage.
+Should I maintain my event library in .dv format? (and bite the bullet on the storage)+
Short answer, yes; long answer:
I did "bite the bullet" since 1T drives are at or just over $100. I'm using a MacBook Pro so I bought an 2 port eSATA card for my cardbus slot ($34), and a 1T eSATA/Firewire/USB drive ($119). I don't plan to "back up" as I am not going to get rid of my Mini DV tapes/vhs/analog tapes, etc. Those will be in an off-site dark cool closet elsewhere. I don't want to do RAID or such as it still puts everything in the same drive unit, in the same location. Basically I'm splitting my video import to two different physical drives. So if lightning, thieves, personal incompetence or whatever strikes, there's more chance it'll only affect one of the drives. I've thought about a Drobo, which you might consider. It is unique device that offers a spin on RAID that offers some advantages.
Everything I read here on these boards suggests that it is best to grab the source video in the original format whenever possible. Since storage is cheap, makes sense to me.
It is likely you wouldn't compress your video unless you were going to edit it. For example if you wanted to make a video of the kids growing up to give the relatives you'd likely end up compressing to burn them a dvd. You would compress if you were going to use MobileMe, YouTube, etc. to post some footage. Whether you watch the video from home, or output to DVD for others, or post online, at least you'll have the source video in it's best possible original format to work with.
This is an aside, but might be useful, I imported one tape at a time, let iM09 create a new event and split per each day. THen I renamed every event based on what the content was before doing the next tape. This really helps later on once yo realize you have a hard drive with 50 hours + of everything in your life on it. I included the year in the name in some way, for example, John's wedding 1994, Hawaii 2000, Hawaii 2004. Then I ended up drag/dropping Hawaii to one event.

What is the best software for home movie editing

Have some old home movies that were digitalized from 8mm film to VOB format. Want to edit and clean them up and reformat into modern mp4/H.264 format. What is the best software/app to use on iMAC running 10.9.2? Thank you for any suggestion.

I would expect that iMovie would be quite adequate for this. If you find it lacking, or if you're just curious, take a look at Final Cut Pro X. There is a thirty day, fully functional trial download so you can find out first and whether it's worth $300 for your purposes.
Russ

What is the best easy setup for d600 nikon. and what is the best export for hd movie, 11 min ?

i'm exporting my movie in mpeg4, 1960X1080, for streaming.
all the movie is going well, but there is some cubes in the sky, and also, some frames jumpes.
I treid few times, but its always the same.
Thank you,Lena

You should transcode the Nikon clips to Pro Res 422 before you import them to your project. That can be done in Compressor or MPEG Streamclip. Let FCP automatically determine the best sequence settings, based on your first clip. Export your project as Quick Time Movie, current settings. If you need an MP4 with h.264, MPEG Streamclip can make it for you.
Russ

What's the best format for a movie to be in a site and be viewed by a PC?

I created a temporary web site using GoLive. I imported a short movie in 2 different versions (1 medium for DSL/Cable and 1 small for Dial-up). When I tested the site either in Explorer or Safari on different Mac computers at home, they both loaded and played OK. However, none of the videos show the bottom bar where the start/stop/volume control appears. Also noticed in a PC that the video had a broken link.
I created a link for QT for Windows so that any PC would be able to download for Free (I don't know if that's the answer).
Is there a universal format that could be saved or exported in QT for PC viewers?
And, why my movies don't show the control bar at the bottom?
The movies were exported as a QT ".mov" Streaming Medium and Low. You can visit: http://www.warreninstitute.com to check them out.
I'd really appreciate if anybody would suggets a better way of handling these short movies.
Thank you!
-sal
G3, G4, G5, iMac G4 Mac OS X (10.4.4)

Avoid H.264 video codec (default in many presets) so older versions of QuickTime can view your files. Use MPEG-4 or H.263 or Sorenson 3 instead.
The reason your controller isn't showing is because you've (probably) didn't allow for it in the movie dimensions. A 320X240 .mov file would become 320X256 (16 pixels for the controller).
Make sure you're using the proper "tags" (object and embed) in your page code.
More info here:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=61011
No need for "streaming" (hint tracks) in your movies. They are only used by special software if your files are served from streaming servers. Your files download and the hint tracks only add to the file size and are not needed.

What are the best settings for Quicktime movies on the web?

I've created a movie and exported it from IMovie. One version is 7.3 megs, and loads fairly quickly when I have it on a web page. I used broadband medium settings from IMovie to create it. I also created a file that is 19.3 megs using broadband high settings from IMovie. That file is way too big to load in a reasonable amount of time. Thing is, I can't stretch the 7.3 meg version (or don't know how) to make it any bigger. Is there a way I can make it bigger in the web page? Maybe that's a Dreamweaver question. Thanks.

You would need to add a few lines of code to your Web page and that depends on which html "style" you've used.
For the "object/embed" style code you would change your dimensions from those found in the source file to those you want to use in your page. Then add scale="tofit" in the embed tag code and param name="scale" value="tofit" in the object tag.
Don't forget to add 16 pixels to the height to show the movie controller (if used).

What's the best point for inserting a "post rendering" FX?

Hi, I extended a Canvas3D and then I override the method "postSwap()", but my odd-even line effect is flickering a lot, what could be another good point for inserting this process?
public void postSwap() {
    Graphics2D g2 = (Graphics2D)this.getGraphics();
    Map map = new HashMap();
    map.put(RenderingHints.KEY_ANTIALIASING, RenderingHints.VALUE_ANTIALIAS_OFF);
    g2.addRenderingHints(map);
    g2.setColor(WipideaApplet.BCK2);
    int h = this.getHeight(), w = this.getWidth();
    for (int i=0;i<h;i++) {
        if (i%2==0)
            g2.drawLine(0, i, w, i);
}

postRendering()?
works for me and does not flick... i draw an image on it, so i guess it should work for you

What are the BEST Books and Best websites for java biginners?

Dear All,
What are the BEST Books and Best websites for java biginners-Especially for fast learning.
Thnaks
KMK

This is my standard reply:
[Sun's basic Java tutorial|http://java.sun.com/docs/books/tutorial/]
[Sun's New To Java Center|http://java.sun.com/learning/new2java/index.html]
Includes an overview of what Java is, instructions for setting up Java, an intro to programming (that includes links to the above tutorial or to parts of it), quizzes, a list of resources, and info on certification and courses.
jGuru
A general Java resource site. Includes FAQs, forums, courses, more.
JavaRanch
To quote the tagline on their homepage: "a friendly place for Java greenhorns." FAQs, forums (moderated, I believe), sample code, all kinds of goodies for newbies. From what I've heard, they live up to the "friendly" claim.
[Yawmarks List|http://forums.devshed.com/java-help-9/resources-for-learning-java-249225.html]
[The Java Developers Almanac|http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0201752808?v=glance]
[http://javaalmanac.com|http://javaalmanac.com]
Bruce Eckel's [Thinking in Java(Available online.)|http://mindview.net/Books/DownloadSites]
Joshua Bloch's [Effective Java|http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/Author=Bloch,%20Josh]
Bert Bates and Kathy Sierra's [Head First Java|http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0596004656?v=glance ]
James Gosling's [The Java Programming Language|http://www.bookpool.com/sm/0321349806]
Gosling is the creator of Java. It doesn't get much more authoritative than this.
Joshua Bloch and Neal Gafter [Java Puzzlers.|http://www.javapuzzlers.com/]

I filmed several takes of the same scene for a movie. I trimmed the best clips from each take and put them into the project screen. However, I can't figure out how to make it flow seamlessly as one scene. Can someone please help me??

I filmed several takes of the same scene for a movie. I trimmed the best clips from each take and put them into the project screen. However, I can't figure out how to make it flow seamlessly as one scene. Can someone please help me??

1-800-676-2775 apple support tech support 1 800 275 2273
If your computer is on one minute before it freezes, than you have one minute to secure your serial number.
click the apple----->click about this Mac ------> click on version----> until you see the serial number. You may have to do this a couple of times if it freezes before you have all the numbers. A camera might help.
Good Luck

What is the best encoder for a quicktime movie into iDVD...?

i seem to be having some issues with picture quality once the DVD is actually made... i do have my preferences set at professional quality, but i think my problem may be with the original source file... what's the best format for that...? H264...? mpeg4...? pro res...?
thanks

Since you are just researching, I am going to make this as short and sweet as possible.
The 27 inch screen IMac is your only option. You need to have one with the fastest i7 CPU, fastest Graphics processor. Order one with the base 8 GBs of RAM and add additonal RAM through cheaper third party Mac RAM suppliers.
My preference is for the standard ATA 7200 rpm drives as the Fusion-type drives are not proven technology, yet.
If you want a really fast iMac and can afford it, consider an internal or external solid state drive (SSD) as these drives ard very,very fast.
For external drives fast drives are ones that use USB 3, Thunderbolt and/or FireWire 800 connections.
Stay away from external USB 2.0 external hard drives. They aren't fast enough.
You need an adapter adapter for your mini DV camera.
You are going to need some make of separate high speed audio interface box for instruments and vocals.
Look at interface boxes from M-Audio.
And you'll need to budget for a third party, good quality, high speed external FireWire 400/800 CD/DVD optical drive.
Plus, very seriously consider the purchase of extended 3-year AppleCare Warranty plan.
Something will go wrong with an iMac between 1-5 years.
Three years of warranty protection offers free repairs and replacement of you have hardware failures.
Good Hunting!

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

Where to find the best application for cleaning out my MacBook Air with OS X 10.7.5? I've been using MacKeeper but believe it's slowing down my laptop considerable.

where to find the best application for cleaning out my MacBook Air with OS X 10.7.5? I've been using MacKeeper but believe it's slowing down my laptop considerable. Thank you.

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; make them independent of each other. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the Software Update preference pane, you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis. This is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, this stuff is useless, or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
The more actively promoted the product, the more likely it is to be garbage. The most extreme example is the “MacKeeper” scam.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for — such as creating, communicating, and playing — and does not modify the way other software works. Use your computer; don't fuss with it.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve.
4. Beware of trojans. A trojan is malicious software (“malware”) that the user is duped into installing voluntarily. Such attacks were rare on the Mac platform until sometime in 2011, but are now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be acquired directly from the developer. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from a web page without your having requested it should go straight into the Trash. A website that claims you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, is rogue.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
5. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem. While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage consumption and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as the free application OmniDiskSweeper to explore your volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move rarely-used large files to secondary storage.
6. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

What is the best replacement for iWeb?

I have been using iWeb for a very long time. I need to move on to something that is being updated. What is the best replacement for iWeb? I see Wordpress needs special software to work on a Mac.
Thanks!
Pat

I have used HostExcellence in the past and they support all the CMS's including WordPress, so you should have no problems there.
The top CMS's that most have heard about and use are Drupal, Joomla and WordPress.
There is probably no best one, but you need to look at them all and use the one that best fits your needs.
I have used all of them in the past, but most recently Joomla and Drupal. Drupal has a reputation for being quite hard and Drupal 6 was, but with the advent of Drupal 7, things got a lot easier. There are a lot more themes that you can use and if you want increased functionality in Drupal, then you can download Modules and install them. You can have a membership site if you want it and this is easy to do - people can sign up for an account and you can restrict their access to certain parts of the site and then limit what they can do. You can allow people to complete forms on the site itself and the results to be sent to you. There is a Blog module that you can enable and that comes in Drupal Core with no need to download an extra module.
Joomla is good also and you can have a Blog with it too and there are lots of themes to choose from, but sometimes you have to pay for extras with Joomla - you can download Extensions and Plugins, but they may not always be free.
WordPress was always just thought of as a blogging platform, but it has evolved in to much more than that and you can now create stunning looking websites with blogs - there are a good range of free templates to choose from and if you want your blog on the front page of your site you can have this, or you can change it to another part of your site if you want a static front page. To extend functionality you can download plugins from inside WordPress itself, most of which are free. This might be the easiest one for you to use if you just want a website with a built in blog that is relatively easy.
Check out the others though at Drupal.org, Joomla.org and then WordPress.org.

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