Is what I look at on imac remembered?

If I view files in iphoto, or watch movies in quicktime that are on a memory stick, are they somehow kept/recorded on my hard drive?

No, they are not.

Similar Messages

Buying Used iMac - What to look for?

Hello,
I'm a devoted mac user. I currently own a late 2008 unibody Macbook, and have been looking for an upgrade. I came across a used iMac posting on a craigslist-like website. The configuration is a low-end mid-2011 21" iMac (quad core i5, 4gb, 500gb).
I asked the seller for the serial number and checked it out the support site. The warranty is due to run out on Thursday, just enough time for me to buy extended AppleCare. The price seems reasonable (approx $730 whereas a new iMac is $1200), and I've asked to see the iMac in person tomorrow. I wanted to know what to look for when making the final decision.
Also do you think I should hold out for an Ivy Bridge iMac (rumoured to be coming soon??) or will it not make a difference for normal coding/browsing (no photo/video editing/gaming)? One factor discouraging me is that Apple has hitched up the prices for the newly released Macbooks here in India (the base 13" pro used to be $1250, now $1530!!!).
Thanks a lot!
Meghana

RRFS wrote:
Then you have to make sure the original owner releases their account at Apple or purchases and upgrades will be impossible.
Oh! Had no idea about this... how does one release the account? I mean, is there a way i can check it on the machine itself? The applecare site doesn't show any registration info.
Thanks!!

Whats the difference between the iMac 2010 and 2011?

I'm currently looking for an iMac as I am a beginner professional photographer and I am confused as to which year model is right for me.
The price difference is about $200 and as a student, thats quite a lot of money. I understand that for professional reasons I should get the latest model but I just need to know if its worth paying that extra.
If someone could do a Pros and Cons list of both, that would be an amazing help!

Impossible question to answer, it all depends on your needs. Based on your question it's clear you are looking at used machines. I would urge you to save more money and instead of buying used because you never really know what you're getting and what may seem like a savings turns out to be a money pit. I'd recommend looking at Apple's refurbished machines where you can save hundreds of dollars, get a like-new machine with the same warranty as a new one. Because you did not tell us where you are located it's difficult to tell you which on-line store to look at but the one in the USA is located at:
http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/specialdeals

What is the best value iMac config for hd video editing. I was going to go for i5 3.1 ghz with 4mb ram, but should I go further? Thanks!

What is the best value iMac config for hd video editing.? I was going to go for i5 3.1 ghz with 4mb ram, but should I go further? Thanks!

You have it currently installed? Can you go to the System Profiler and click on Applications (will take a while to populate) - take a look at your FCP and check what it says on the right - Universal, Intel, or PPC? It'll look like this:
If it's Universal or Intel, it'll run in Lion. However, the installer may or may not be PPC - that you may not know until you try to install. If you have it currently installed, then you could do what I did - move over all the files manually. I have a list of files for FCE and would assume they'd be the same with FCP: copy them from the old Mac and insert them in the very same spots on the new one.
Here is the list for FCE:
http://support.apple.com/kb/TA38198?viewlocale=en_US
(It was published for an uninstall, but worked like a charm).

What do ido if My iMac (intel) starts but the screen remains dark.

What do ido if My iMac (intel) starts but the screen remains dark.

Reset the SMC > Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
Shut down the computer.
Unplug the computer's power cord.
Wait fifteen seconds.
Attach the computer's power cord.
Wait five seconds, then press the power button to turn on the computer.
Reset the PRAM > Resetting your Mac's PRAM and NVRAM
Shut down the computer.
Locate the following keys on the keyboard: Command, Option, P, and R. You will need to hold these keys down simultaneously in step 4.
Turn on the computer.
Press and hold the Command-Option-P-R keys. You must press this key combination before the gray screen appears.
Hold the keys down until the computer restarts and you hear the startup sound for the second time.
Release the keys.
Try booting into Safe Mode > Mac OS X: Starting up in Safe Mode
Be sure your Mac is shut down.
Press the power button.
Immediately after you hear the startup tone, hold the Shift key. The Shift key should be held as soon as possible after the startup tone, but not before the tone.
Release the Shift key when you see the gray Apple icon and the progress indicator (looks like a spinning gear).
Or if you have installed new RAM, try reinstalling it or the iMac's original RAM making sure that the modules are fully seated in the slots.
Then if it won't light, seek sercice from your Local Apple Authorized Service Provider or Apple Store. > Apple - Support - iMac - Service FAQ

What to look for in free fonts?

I want to download some free fonts (I am a student) to use for some 300ppi print pieces and am wondering what to look for in a free font to determine whether it will print nicely at a high quality. What makes a good quality font? I know there is lots of garbage out there though there are also many good quality free fonts.
Thanks.

This is not remotely a Photoshop question.
Try the Adobe Typography forum:
http://forums.adobe.com/community/design_development/typography

What´s happening with my iMac?

After all, sorry for my english.
From a couple of months ago, when I turn on my iMac I can see stranger lines and colours on the screen. Once OSX is ready, lines disappear. Yesterday I take a photo with my celular phone: http://personales.ya.com/atleticomania/macu/Imac.jpg
I´m very afraid, ´couse this is the second time I have to repair my Mac.
Any ideas of what´s happening?
Thanks
iMac Intel Core Duo Mac OS X (10.4.6) 17", 1024 Mb Ram, 160Gb HD

I also would take it in to be checked as mp24 suggest!
Or send it in if there is not a service center near you, here's the link for service request.
http://depot.info.apple.com/imac/
Dennis
17" iMac Intel Core Duo 1.5GB Ram Mac OS X (10.4.8) Maxtor 300GB FireWire 2G Nano

What's wrong with my iMac G3?

What's wrong with my iMac G3?
Ok. I'm going to attempt to be as thorough as possible on this one. When I first got my iMac G3, it was stated to be non working. I got it from freecycle. The lady who provided my with the machine said that "one day it just wouldn't turn on". So, I still took it home. After I set it up, it turned on and booted into Mac OS 8.6 no problem. After about two days of using it, I turned it on again and it said something about "finder could not be started because draglib-setdragimage (or something like that) could not be found." It gave me a restart button, which I clicked. After about a day of messing around with it, I found that holding the shift key to disable extensions would allow it to boot properly. I decided to re-install 8.6. However, the cd was not recognized (perhaps because it was an ISO, not DMG). So, I proceeded to install panther. The first time it booted with the panther cd (and ever since), there has been no startup chime. It also will only get to the apple logo, without the spinning thing, where it freezes. Only the button on the keyboard works to start it up. And, occasionally it will boot into open firmware. I don't know what to do from here. I can still boot into os 8.6 with extensions off.
Help?
Thanks so much in advance,
-Don

And, occasionally it will boot into open firmware.
Seems odd to me. All by itself? Did you press any keys?
I don't know what to do from here. I can still boot into os 8.6 with extensions off.
Most likely, you have a bad extension. They are in a folder called extensions What you need to do is create a new folder and move extensions to this folder. Move extensions to the folder in groups. try 1/2 first. Move back & forth between folders. See which extension is causing the problem. command + n to create a new folder
verify that you have the correct firmware.
Figuring out what level of firmware you have?
1) Mac OS 9.x or 8.x, you need to use the Apple System Profiler.
Apple -> Apple System Profiler
2) Mac OS X, use the System Profiler.
Apple -> About This Mac
click on the More Info... tab
click on Hardware
read the Boot ROM Version
3) Open Firmware, boot into Open Firmware.
Power on your iMac while holding down commandoption+of
The first output line contains the firmware level. Mine reads:
Apple PowerMac4,1 4.1.9f1 BootRom built on 09/14/01 at 13.18.04
Copyright 1994-2001 Apple Computer Inc.
The 4.1.9f1 will be different on a 333 machine.
What firmware do you need?
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86117

Pointer on what to look for (NullPointerException in FontManager.getFont2D)

I have a screen that we are trying to display remotely (via an RMI bridge). On the local application it displays properly everytime, but when displayed remotely It displays properly once. From then on it comes up blank with a null pointer exception (Posted below). Right now I'm thinking there is something in the set-up for the local applicateion that is not happening on the remote one. But I didn't write either and my brute force investigation hasn't trned up anything.
Since I only have to disconnect and close the remote application and restart to get it to display again this could also be a problem cleaning up resources on a window close. I'm hoping that someonw might have an idea of what causes this Exception. Moste references I've found to it appear to be listed as fixed (And aren't the same thing since they happen all the time) or are in threads that just stopped with no resolution. I'm hoping that if I find out what it means I might have a better idea what to look for.
java.lang.NullPointerException
     at sun.font.FontManager.getFont2D(Native Method)
     at sun.font.FontDesignMetrics.initMatrixAndMetrics(FontDesignMetrics.java:343)
     at sun.font.FontDesignMetrics.<init>(FontDesignMetrics.java:336)
     at sun.font.FontDesignMetrics.getMetrics(FontDesignMetrics.java:284)
     at sun.swing.SwingUtilities2.getFontMetrics(SwingUtilities2.java:943)
     at javax.swing.JComponent.getFontMetrics(JComponent.java:1599)
     at javax.swing.plaf.basic.BasicTabbedPaneUI.getFontMetrics(BasicTabbedPaneUI.java:1801)
     at javax.swing.plaf.basic.BasicTabbedPaneUI.calculateMaxTabWidth(BasicTabbedPaneUI.java:1754)
     at javax.swing.plaf.basic.BasicTabbedPaneUI$TabbedPaneLayout.calculateSize(BasicTabbedPaneUI.java:2314)
     at javax.swing.plaf.basic.BasicTabbedPaneUI$TabbedPaneLayout.preferredLayoutSize(BasicTabbedPaneUI.java:2261)
     at java.awt.Container.preferredSize(Container.java:1599)
     at java.awt.Container.getPreferredSize(Container.java:1584)
     at javax.swing.JComponent.getPreferredSize(JComponent.java:1636)
     at psip.gui.util.UIDelegate.defineComponentSizes(UIDelegate.java:927)
     at psip.gui.util.UIDelegate.applyAllResources(UIDelegate.java:865)
     at psip.gui.jfc.panel.AbstractContainer.applyAllResources(AbstractContainer.java:254)
     at psip.gui.jfc.panel.AGDTabbedPane.applyAllResources(AGDTabbedPane.java:471)
     at psip.gui.jfc.panel.AGDTabbedPane.<init>(AGDTabbedPane.java:101)
     at psip.gui.jfc.panel.ControlPanelFactory.getUIDelegate(ControlPanelFactory.java:167)
     at psip.gui.uiDelegate.UIDelegateDirector.getUIDelegate(UIDelegateDirector.java:124)
     at psip.gui.viewMap.GUIComponentFactory.createUIDelegate(GUIComponentFactory.java:593)

Anna:
Yes, rule no. 1, Firewire or FW/USB
2. Largest HDD you can afford (having more space than you need it not a problem; needing more space than you have, is.)
3. 7200 rpms. (Most of them are, but not all)
Here is a list of some of the best buys already sorted for 200-300 GB.
Different folks like different manufacturers. I have had my LaCie for 2 years. No problems. I like it for it's compact size and elegance.
Here are some good hints from Dr. Smoke on Backup and Recovery. Instead of Retropect, which I could never quite figure out, I use Carbon Copy Cloner or SuperDuper.
Post back with further questions or comments.
Good luck.
cornelius
Message was edited by: cornelius

Studio Monitors - what to look for...

I'm going to say this right now - I'm NOT asking "hey, whats the best studio monitors I can get for x dollars." That's not what I'm interested in.
What I AM interested in is what TO look for, and what NOT to look for in buying a new set of stereo monitors.
I've decided I'd like to upgrade my studio monitors. I'm mixing on a pair of Event TR8 XL monitors - they're great, but i know there's better out there. I spent about $600 on the pair.
At this point, my limited knowledge of monitors only allow me to assume that more expensive means better, but I don't understand WHY, or what to look for. So, my question is this. What is more money buying me? Are there brands that are more or less reputable than others?
I'm really looking for general, or specific, advice on shopping for new monitors. Help me make an educated decision, there are too **** many monitors out there to choose from.
For what it's worth, I'd like to keep it under 1k. I'm interested in active near-fields, good for mixing, with decent clarity and few gimiks. Granted, nothing beats getting into a GC and listening to a few (which I intend to do in the next day or two), but I need a little more to go on when I take a look at these in person and listen to some of my mixes on them.
Thanks!
Chris

To add to the previous poster, I have a pair of old NS10's and I use them because I'm used to how they sound and how their sound translates to several other of my references, i.e. my SET/Bottlehead listening system, my car CD player, my table radio. One reason a studio owner would buy say Genelecs or Mackie HR 824's is because they have become somewhat of a standard and like the NS10's of 15 years ago, people know what they're getting once you're used the way mixes translate from them to other systems. That being said, get the Mackies, or Dynaudio BM5A's. Both those seem to be widely accepted and studio proven. That's a good place to start.

Raid Card, what to look for in a card?

Hi guys,
Im looking for help on what to look for in a Raid card. Im new to Raid, but i have read the tweakers pages and it seems like the way forward.
Im a full time editor working with AVC-Intra footage doing fast cuts. Im about to ditch my 2008 mac pro and build a up to date PC around the i7 4930k. Im planning on running 8x3-4tb drives for footage; raid 5, 3x3tb raid 3 for exports, maybe 2x256 ssd raid 0 for boot, 2x3tb drive for page file and media cache, and maybe 3x3tb for stock footage raid 0.
Im totally lost in what to look for in a Raid card?
Cheers Ryan

For 13 drives is there a cheaper option?
Yes, Areca 1882ix-16, 1264IL-16, Intel RS2WG160, LSI 9260-16i - or for that matter, any RAID controller with 13+ internal connections. There are much cheaper controllers from Highpoint and others, as well.
If your next question is, is it worth it going cheaper? ...Usually not for me personally - at least certainly not with Highpoint or other entry level controllers with subpar support and all kinds of performance and reliability problems. Even Tier 1 controllers aren't exempt from them.
That said, I am curious about Intel and LSI controllers I listed above. The LSI one especially so given the availability of SSD caching and other neat features.
Hope this helps.

What to look for when purchasing external display

Hey everyone,
First and foremost I want to say I am a web developer and graphic designer so what I am looking for is a display (not too big) 20" - 23" TV OR Monitor. This way when I am developing I am not making things HUGE so i can see them while other viewers can't. I have seen the display on a 30" screen and no that isn't going ot work.
I am now searching for an external display for my newly built office but I don't know what to look for besides DVI support. What resolution do I need to make sure it goes to? There is just so many options when looking at TVs or Monitors..
any input?

DVI support is a must and most LCDs in the size that you are looking for are going to have it.
Your MB can drive a display with a resolution of up to 1920 x 1200 which just happens to be the resolution of the 23" Apple Cinema HD Display. I didn't want to pay Apple prices for a display, so I went looking at Dell. I picked up a 20" 2007WFP display from them for about $360 shipped and it works like a charm with the Apple Mini-DVI to DVI adapter.
I prefer displays that use a S-IPS panel over the more common and cheaper TN panels. S-IPS is much better for color reproduction and that is why Apple uses them in their Cinema Displays. Dell uses the same panel is some of their 20" models - I got one - but some buyers are very upset that they got a TN panel instead of the S-IPS panel. I was lucky I guess.

Any suggestions for what to look for in a good production monitor?

I'm in the market for a production monitor and I'm looking at B&H's online catalogue now. Any tips on what to look for and if anyone has any recommendations or favorites? Thanks.

it would help if you could determine a budget and then shop for models within or slightly above that budget.
basically, some necessary items are switchable aspect ratio, underscan/overscan and then some sort of blue check for proper chroma and phase calibration. some monitors have a gray scale blue check which i think completely blows. it's better to have a monitor with viewable red, blue and green guns as the blue gun is more accurate for calibration than a grayscale blue check feature. also, there are other diagnostic functions that are viewable by using the red or green guns to view color bars.
some other nice features to have are horizontal/vertical delay, sdi inputs, hd-sdi inputs.
it's been mentioned in the last larry jordan newsletter than the crt monitor is going the way of the dinosaur and now sony and panasonic are marketing lcd products only. i think this is a very sad trend. as a freelance video operator/camera shader, i am of the opinion that lcd monitors are horrible; they hurt my eyes and the color rendition isn't as accurate as a crt. leitch is now manufacturing an lcd scope which is just terrible to behold. the black area of the vectorscope is a huge, amorphous blob of white light that shows no signal detail whatsoever.
i don't know what to make of larry's statement as a quick check of the sony business website reveals only bvm crt's in their product lineup, no more pvm series. i haven't looked at the panasonic product catalog yet.
although the sony pvm L5 that shane mentioned is a quality product, to my eyes, i would get an ikegami monitor but you'll find that the superior imaging of the ikegami also has a superior price point.
one last point, don't buy an used monitor from ebay, you don't know where it's been or how it's been treated. give jvc monitors a fair shake as well, not a bad product for the price, no matter what their reputation is.
good luck.

Getting the photos I print to match what they look like on my screen.

I'm having a hard time getting the photos I print to match what they look like on my screen. I even bought a monitor calibrator and tried changing my color settings in Photoshop and it hasn't seemed to help. The pictures even look different when I pull them up in The ROES program I use to order prints from. The pictures come out really dull compared to what they look like in Photoshop. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can do to fix this?

There are a couple of things to note here right away.
To get a good screen to print match the first consideration is the monitor brightness and white point temperature. The goal is a visual match to paper white.
The calibrator will help you set this up. Spend some time to find the right settings, because it will depend on the ambient light and your whole working environment. That includes the Photoshop UI - if you use the now default dark UI, images will appear brighter than in the old light UI.
The second thing to note is that you don't change any Photoshop color settings. The calibration and profiling is all handled automatically, once you found the right settings for white point. Just let the calibration software run through and do its thing, done. The display profile is set up as system default and Photoshop finds it there.
Once you have a correct display of the file, you then need a correctly color managed print pipeline. If both are accurate, they will match.

What is up with my iMac?

So here is what is happening to my iMac, (by the way its a power g5 non iSight leopard OS)It began to freeze and slow down , got the grey screen and would not boot up again. Tried all of the combination of command + keys available, nothing. Tried target mode, etc, pretty much tried it all, moved to beleiving that my hard drive had fried, I replaced it.
Placed the original dvd and booted into it, after a very long time, and I do mean long time, I was able to get into disk utilities, also the old hard drive, the one I thought was dead, I put into a slay and pluged it into the mac.
Disk utilities saw my newly installed drive, and saw my old drive, I proceeded to do a scan and fix on the old drive and thought it would all be okay. Went back installed my old drive and removed my new drive, since I thought that the problem had been solved, but nope. I was unable to boot into the mac again, so I went into it again and replaced the hard drive again, with the new one, and booted with the original dvd.
Once inside the installation I did the disk utilities, and tried to format the drive, erase the drive , but nothing it gave me an error and was unable to install the os.
Does anyone one have any idea what is going on? I am pretty certain that the hard drive is not the cause, but what can it be?
Anyhelp appreciated!!

You can't format it before putting it in the Mac, I just wondered if you had bought one which came already Windows formatted, many drives do. Did Disk Utilities from the install disk come up with any errors? Do you have DiskWarrior or TechToolPro?
It could be that your logic board had failed, but give resetting both your PRAM and SMU a go.

Is what I look at on imac remembered?

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