J205 9686- A12 MoBo, Power Supply ??

Greetings All,
I need to know if someone has a definite answer as to the system board maker and a model number of the above referenced system. Also the PSU specs. I've noticed different wattages on other sites describing the power supply . I plan on purchasing this for my son and I see upgrade potential, i.e. CPU (X2) and a discreet video card if the PSU can be changed out. Any assistance greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance,
Donald
ThinkPads:
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T43p 2668 2.26PentM, 2GB, 15in 1600x1200, 128MB ATI FireGL
V3200, XP SP3 T61p 6458 Core2 Duo 2.4GHz, 15.4 nVidia Quadro 570M, Win7 Ultimate SP1

You could have ran that card on the stock PSU and it would have ran just fine provided you havent maxed out your PCI Card slots and only have one optical and 1 hard drive installed.
Have you tried updating your game with patches? Changed vistas power scheme from balanced to high performance?
Proud supporter of the Toronto Maple Leafs Hockey Club

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MSI KT6 Delta MOBO - recommended power supply

My power supply exploded , I think, and I cannot power up the system. Hopefully this has not affected the rest of the system: chip, graphcard etc.
What voltage power supply should I have for this particular motherboard?
cheers

I'm sorry some of you are having problems with cheap power supplies. That is beside the point, however. I can only state what I know from experience, as I have never taken any classes in switching supply design. I have absolutely zero (0) problems with cheap supplies. And any motherboard that is so power hungry that it can itself overdraw a power supply is very poor design. As I said, I ran my HP Pavilion xt983 with a 200-watt cheap-o PSU with all that stuff in my previous post for over 4 years with no problems (and the PSU still works even after the mobo died from bad capacitors). I am using it to rebuild the exact same (minus HP mobo) system when the replacement mobo (crappy Chaintech) comes back this week from being repaired under warranty.
I never said wattage was the only metric - it's just a guide, as no manufacturer I know of specifies exactly how much and what type of current anything they build uses in the computer world (nor would I trust the spec if they did) - it changes under load. Most people use max figures to decide how much current they need. I just don't want people thinking they need an expensive PSU to run their good to mediocre PC. I don't use junk and my PCs last for years on end (actually never had one I built die for any reason, knock on wood). You do not need a high-wattage or even big namebrand PSU at all, unless you are building a very high-end PC (with light cathodes, water cooling, light kits, multiple every kind of drives, etc. - meaning you plan to abuse the system). The run-of-the-mill PC needs no more than a cheap (non-junky) PSU that can provide at least 17 amps on the 12V rail. That's what I use and that's what I recommend. Wattage should be at 300+ watts to "allow for expansion". Use the calculator. See what all you have to add to get up anywhere near 430 Watts. It can be done, but I would never tax a system that way. The bottom line is watts are only a limiting factor, not a design factor. If you add up all the rails on a typical 430-Watt PSU, it is way over 430 watts. However, if you use all the 12V amps it can turn out and still stay near 12 volts, most of the 5V amps, and most of the 3.3V amps by overloading the system with doodads and whatnots, the 430W limit will matter. As long as you build what I consider a normal system, you'll never use 430 Watts. All decent PSUs can supply enough 3.3V and 5V current (should be around 30-40+ amps each), but many of them are deficient on the 12V rail. Looking for a PSU that can churn out 17+ amps on the 12V rail usually means it can handle about any normal load (meaning single processor, mobo, a HDD or two, a FDD, a few sticks of RAM, and DR/DVD burner or two, and a few expansion cards with no strange mods like lights and 100 fans, water cooling, etc.) on all rails.
So, to recap: For everyday computing, watts are only a limiting factor, so don't get less than 300 in case you really want that power hungry device of the future or want to build a top-end system now. Current is critical, so don't get anything that's puny on any rail (3.3+5V = ~30-40+ amps each and 12V = 17+ amps). Ignore all the "this power supply rocks" junk you'll see in bulletin boards and on Newegg (and other retailers) and look at the specs yourself. Namebrand means as much as you think it does - some have a good rep, some have a bad rep, some have no rep.

Power supply spark...fried mobo?

Hey my frieed with a K8N Neo is having a problem..everything was working fine in his pc for 11 months...one day his powersupply sparked and the computer would not boot. No lights, no fans, nothing.
So he set in a replacement for a power supply and recived a new one. After plugging in everything the computer would still do nothing, no lights fans etc. Do you think the motherboard is fried? I've checked all the jumpers and they are fine.
His specs are:
Athlon 64 3200
MSI K8N Platinum
X-Infinity case
512 Geil Ram
Thermaltake 420W purepower (W0009R)
120 GB Hard drive
Thanks

Gildan,
You asked the following:
btw, how do u do (4)? (which was how to read voltages on motherboard with voltage multimeter (VMM).
Fiirst thing to do is to read and understand following thoroughly:
VMM USAGE INFORMATION
Many troubleshooting procedures require that you measure voltage and resistance. You take these measurements by using a handheld Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). The meter can be an analog device (using an actual meter) or a digital-readout device. The DMM has a pair of wires called test leads or probes. The test leads make the connections so that you can take readings. Depending on the meter's setting, the probes measure electrical resistance, direct-current (DC) voltage, or alternating-current (AC) voltage.
Usually, each system-unit measurement setting has several ranges of operation. DC voltage, for example, usually can be read in several scales, to a maximum of 200 millivolts (mv), 2v, 20v, 200v, and 1,000v. Because computers use both +5 and +12v for various operations, you should use the 20v maximum scale for making your measurements. Making these measurements on the 200mv or 2v scale could "peg the meter" and possibly damage it because the voltage would be much higher than expected. Using the 200v or 1,000v scale works, but the readings at 5v and 12v are so small in proportion to the maximum that accuracy is low.
If you are taking a measurement and are unsure of the actual voltage, start at the highest scale and work your way down. Most of the better meters have autoranging capability: The meter automatically selects the best range for any measurement. This type of meter is much easier to operate. You just set the meter to the type of reading you want, such as DC volts, and attach the probes to the signal source. The meter selects the correct voltage range and displays the value. Because of their design, these types of meters always have a digital display rather than a meter needle.
CAUTION: Whenever using a multimeter to test any voltage that could potentially be 110v or above, always use one hand to do the testing, not two. Either clip one lead to one of the sources and probe with the other, or hold both leads in one hand.
If you are holding a lead in each hand and accidentally slip, you can very easily become a circuit, allowing power to conduct or flow through you. When the power is flowing from arm to arm, the path of the current is directly across the heart. Hearts have a tendency to quit working when subjected to high voltages. They're funny that way.
I prefer the small digital meters; you can buy them for only slightly more than the analog style, and they're extremely accurate, as well as much safer for digital circuits. Some of these meters are not much bigger than a cassette tape; they fit in a shirt pocket. Radio Shack sells a good unit (made for Radio Shack by Beckman) in the $25 price range; the meter is a half-inch thick, weighs 3 1/2 ounces, and is digital and autoranging as well. This type of meter works well for most, if not all, PC troubleshooting and test uses.
CAUTION: You should be aware that many analog meters can be dangerous to digital circuits. These meters use a 9v battery to power the meter for resistance measurements. If you use this type of meter to measure resistance on some digital circuits, you can damage the electronics, because you essentially are injecting 9v into the circuit. The digital meters universally run on 3 to 5v or less.
Now that you have a nice shiny DIGITAL VMM make sure that you read its manual to understand out it works. Practice taking reading on household batteires and the likes first. Once you are confident and have confirmed that you have the proper lead in the neg/pos connector of your multimeter you are now ready to take some reading from your motherboard. Remember to always ground yourself first to dissipate static electricity, Put the black lead sensor against the case and then use the red lead sensor to carefully probe various points on your motherboard. Be very careful to only touch one point (soldering point, chipset leg, or a motherboard trace) at a time. You want to absolutely avoid short circuiting two such points. As long as you only touch one single point at a time you will be safe and get good reading were voltage is present. I usually use a gator clip connector to affix the black lead to the case, leaving me one hand for flashlight or magnifying glass and other to handle red VMM lead.
Here is how to get a Vddr reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=583463
(Put red lead sensor on green dot)
Here is how to get a Vcore reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23902&stc=1
Your Board layout may be slightly different but just keep looking for something similar near your RAM and CPU. Remember to always use only the red lead sensor while being extremely careful to only touch only one spot at a time.
Have fun,

Help with using itunes with 4s library after i upgraded to iPhone 5 and computer power supply went

long story hopefully an easy fix....
on wensday my power supply went and had to ship computer across country to Puget Computer Systems as we weren't sure if it was power supply or mobo...luckily it was power supply.
i daily backed up iphone 4s with itunes (10.7) as i do all music manually, playlists, etc. have like 3,000 plus songs, videos, audiobooks, mail aaccts and about 48 apps.
so next day (sept 19th) apple comes out with iOS 6 which i update my 4s to with no problem. I wanted a day to play with it to learn my way around.
next day i wait in line for 8 hours overnite and was #2 in line at apple store for my ATT 32gb white iPhone 5. while at apple store I get my icloud backup which gets all paid music,apps, etc since itunes version 10.3 (i always did both backups so as not to lose my contacts more than anything.
I have other paid stuff that is in library on computer along with audiobooks and about 2700 more songs.
my icloud backup put the playlists on iPhone but not most of the music for them as lots were ripped from my cd's.as i double them up making a copy on iPhone and a copy on itunes.
So I have been using iPhone 5 with no problems just don't have all of itunes library on it. My computer is coming back this week how do I plug in iPhone 5 via USB (which will be seen as new phone even though it has same name) and use my existing iTunes 10.7 library which the backups in iTunes still has iOS 5.1.1 on it?
There must be an easy way of doing it as i don't want to wipe off iphone 5 again as i don't see any purpose my library is all organized perfectly. I know my way around windows 7 pro 64 bit pretty well just don't know what itunes is going to say once it sees "joe's iPhone" again and installs the usb drivers and icon for it. what will it ask in regards to library and how do i use it with previous iOS on it?
Thank you very much for the help as I am going to need it.
yes i broke the cardinal rule of cross posting and apoligize for it just amazed i couldn't find answer via google nor any apple store genius knew it either.

Hi All,
Any help?
No one has any answers here amoungst all this apple knowledge?
Thank you

Looking to upgrade the video card and power supply in the K330

Hello, I'm looking to upgrade the power supply and video card in the Lenovo IdeaCentre K330 but I need to know if these parts will be accepted by the mobo.
Here's the card name (no link, don't know if theres a restriction to off site links) ASUS 2GB GDDR5 DIGI+ VRM technology Graphics Cards HD7770-2GD5
The power supply name follows: Xion High Performance 1000 Watt ATX Power Supply XON-1000P14F
Thanks for reading, and extra thanks for a good reply

Thanks for replying, I have looked into other PSU's and came up with this: XFX PRO750W Core Edition 80+ Bronze ATX 750 Energy Star Certified Power Supply
Feedback? And main question is, will they both (video card and PSU) be compatible with the motherboard that come standard in the K330?
I don't really have a need for the front panel except the power, and backontrack buttons.
Also, the reason why I'm getting a high wattage PSU is because I might later decide to build my own PC with the upgraded parts, and put the old parts back into the K330

Adding third party video card to P700 - no power connectors? New Power Supply Question...

Hello,
I have a new P700 30A90012US with a 650W PSU and that didn't come with a video card. I am planning to use it as a DAW and for occasional gaming via a dual boot.
I wanted to put in a third party video card like a nVidea 970 but there aren't ANY connectors for video cards that I can find inside. The monitor I have is a 3440x1440 monitor. I have ordered a second 2609 Processor and RAM from Lenovo and have the following questions:
Once I install the second processor, how much wattage for a video card is available to me?
I understand that the 3rd party video card isn't supported but how do I attach power to it?
If it is required that I have to replace the 650 power supply with an 850, does it come with the required cable? I only see a 4 pin connector on the mobo that is unused (and I believe it is for additional hdd)
I tried searching but I am at a loss.
Thanks,

Your config isn't really power hungry (and the 85W CPUs help a lot). Though technically outside of the official spec, I think you could easily go to a 225W card for graphics if you had the connectors available to support it. I'll double check the current when I get a chance, but it's probably really low risk if you want to convert your single 6-pin connector to dual 6-pin or a single 8-pin (via a dongle) to get to 225W TDP if you wanted to.
The PSU design is very modular, but unfortunately it's the aux power cable drops that kept it from being an easy field upgradable part. I always recommend that people buy the larger PSU if they ever think they'll be doing any upgrades in the future just to make sure they are covered.
And like I said if you're comfortable working inside the system, it's not impossible to upgrade that cable drop on your own if you want to go up to the 850W. You'd have to get the cable and PSU, but after that it would require removing the motherboard and PSU, cutting some cable ties and routing the new cable, then getting everything routed correctly such that the motherboard reinstalls cleanly.

Is it the power supply... or the motherboard?

Lets start of with specs...
K7T266 Pro2 Mainboard
AMD Athlon XP 1700+
nVidia GeForce 3 Ti 500
Creative Labs Audigy MP3
Western Digital 80 GB Hard Drive (7200RPM)
IBM 40 GB Hard Drive (7200RPM)
Mmkay now... I just installed some nifty lights and a window on my case, I don't think that is the problem though. Whenever I go to putting in the 20 pin ATX power supply thingee, nothing happens to the mainboard, nothing lights up... sometimes when I put in the cable different ways, or with my hand further away from the connecter, the lights get a faint glow, the fans turn on, but the hard drives don't. This has happened 3 times to me, and I don't know what the problem is.... the first time it happened I thought my power supply was fried so I ran out and bought a PSU tester, all was fine so I knew it had to be the mainboard. It wasnt. Some of the little doodahs inside the connecter from the power supply werent pushed in (or is it out?) far enough, aka some wires were just slipping out from the connector. The second time, I went to take apart the computer to dust it and the same thing happened.
This time, is the first time I had the lights and the window on the case, so when I plug in the PSU tester to the power supply, everything lights up and turns on (except the mainboard which isnt plugged in). So then I plug it into the mainboard's connecter, it doesnt turn on. I have been fiddling with it for 20 hours and even used a dremel to shave off some of the plastic on the PSU's connecter, so the wires in the mainboard would hit the ones on the connecter. They didn't.
Now I am asking you, if you can understand what I just said ( :D ), what is wrong with my computer.
I'll take some pictures and show you what is happening...

I do not think it is the connector to the MB, the PSU or the Mobo. I think you somewhere have a short-circuit. It might be that it is in a place so that it only occurs when you have "fiddled" with the innards of your case.
Try and search for anything that might be causing a short circuit.
Remember that some lights (dont know correct english word for the type here) might in some situation be considered a short circuit (and might cause your PSU not to power up).

Can't fine internal power supply form new sound card

Just installed an asus xonar dx sound card in my slimline s5670t desktop. The problem I am having is that I cannot find the 4 pin power supply I need on the mobo. Can anyone help me out?
This question was solved.
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These are the motherboard specifications for your PC.
You probably need to look for a 4 pin molex or floppy connector coming off the power supply. If your don't see a spare connector then you will need an adapter to split off from a molex connector or even off a sata power connector. Look carefully at the power cable going to the hard drive. This is where you might try a Y splitter power cable. www.newegg.com probably has want you need.
Maybe this adapter would work. I can't say if the connector is right for tapping on the sata drive for power or if the cable lengths are long enough.
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

Which power supply do I need

I just got a dual 800 g4 quicksilver. The guy I got it from says that the mobo went bad but a tag on the inside says the power supply went bad. It no longer has the power supply in it so I am looking to see which one I would need to get for it and if any one has one that they can sell me cheap.

Here you go:
http://www.dvwarehouse.com/G4-Power-Supply-c-247_476.html
G4 AGP(450)Sawtooth Mac OS X (10.4.8) 2ghzPPC,1.62gbSDRAM, ATI9000, DVR-110D,(IntHD)120&160,LaCie160,23"Cinema Display

Iphone power supply 70 V on shield

Hi,
I was wondering why the metal frame on my iphone 3GS feels that strange stub
but only during charging with the original power supply.
So I measured the voltage from the metal frame against ground and found suprising 70 Volt.
It breaks down to 20 Volt as soon I touch it ..so it is only a small current of 0,02 mA.
But anyhow I wonder what crude circuit layout is behind that.
I repeated the measurement with an iphone 4 power supply and came to 80V.

While it is in general true, that more info is necessary, yet still I would inspect caps on the mainboard first. Are they bloated or leaking?
These old mobos have all bad caps... it is more like a pleague, just check the there pages there:
http://trodas.wz.cz/index.php?act=ST&f=16&t=432
So in short - check for possible hardware failure. I bet it is. What else could go wrong, when one day it is working and another day ít refuse to work? Try other PSU first, just to be sure. PSUs have bad caps too... in fact, they are build with almost exclusively bad caps.

Power supply unit for 1500+

hello,
i got another set is Athlon XP 1500+(palamino), the power supply is aopen brand, i think is 250 or 300 watt,
display card -winfast a170 (GF4 mx 420)
RAM -Kingmax 128MB PC2700(x2)
MOBO-KT3 Ultra2
HDD-40GB Maxtor DM+8(7200RPM)
CD-rom -56x Aopen CDrom
CD-RW-40/12/48 Aopen CDRW
1pcs internal modem
the power supply it is enough for use or no?????
thanks

because last time i used all the parts is same,except the the power supply,
the psu last i used is enlight 300watt (180watt combined),it spoil my hddusing some monthafter iuse gf4 mx420,so change to enlight 420watt,now this set i want give to my sister,so the aopen 25owatt psu, no sure can use for 1500+ or no???
if can't i want downgrade to 1000(100MHz)default setting,may be the power will be enough for use
thanks

Installed new fsp group power supply - nothing happens! Help!

First time poster so bear with me!
I have a K8N Neo, MS-7030 ver.1 motherboard. I had it installed last year but two days later the light in the front started flashing like crazy - it turned off and wouldn't start again. Someone told me to replace the power supply. I bought a FSP Group AX500-A - power supply and hooked everything back up but nothing happens. The blue light on the power supply comes on and the heat sink on the nforce3 gets hot but no sounds, no nothing. What's up? Any help appriciated.
D

Hey - The 4 pin detatched from the 24pin connector is to be left unused , and not to be put in cpu/4pins mobo connector.
Using this will not provide +12v for cpu , and system will not boot.
This extra 4pins contains , gnd,+3.3v,+5v,+12 and is only to be used at 24pin mobo connector , nowhere else.
The psu have it's own cpu/4pin/8pin cable containing gnd,gdn,+12v,+12=cpu power (can also be 8pin but seperates in two pieces just as the 24pin connector)
Only this cable from PSU shall be used at the mobos 4pin cpu/12v connector.

KT3 Ultra2 Power Supply Fan Question

What is the connector PSFAN1 used for? I thought the Power Supply Fan comes on when you turn on the computer. Seems strange that you would have to route the power through the motherboard....I am sorry for the newbie question. I do have a newer Enermax case that seems to have the correct connector coming from the wiring harness out of the power supply. Do I plug that wire onto the PSFAN1 connector?
Dan

Yeah, you will be fine if your plug it in. I have an enermax as well and it is plugged into my mobo and all is well. There is usually a fan in the bottom of the power supply (facing the cpu) and another on the back. The one in the bottom sucks air away from the cpu and the one in the back sucks the air out. You may want to look and see if there is a fan control on the back of the power supply as some let you control the speed of the out blowing fan. Oh, by the way, I just saw that they have three fan power supplies now!

Compaq Presario Cq1-2025. Do These Have A Power Supply?

Have one of these that just stopped powering on. I get a little green light in the back, but no sounds or beeps or images. On a regular desktop computer I'd just replace the power supply and I'd be good to go, but I don't think these have a separate PS, and are more like an overgrown laptop, with a chunk of the mobo dedicated to providing the power.
Is this a candidate for the local recycling bin?
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View Solution.

Hi,
It IS the power supply. As in my first reply, it uses a similar PSU with a laptop.
Regards.
BH
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Power supply fan

anyone know why power supply fan would keep running when system in standby. It goes into and comes out of standby just fine just that the fan keeps running when in standby
os-xp
mobo-k7n2g
power-300w

Just because the system is in standby mode doesn't mean the power is cutoff to the system entirely...if you go into hibernate mode then in most cases it will shut the system down until you click the mouse or press a key...I've not used either feature much myself so can't say for sure here but I doubt that unless you totally shutdown that the power to the system doesn't shut off...
Cheers!! 8)

J205 9686- A12 MoBo, Power Supply ??

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