Jpeg 2000 - news and advice

I need to know if there  is a plug in for jpeg2 -- for ps-4, on Mac, and if any one has found this to be a good/better format for  small cameras?

There are plugins available on the web if you are interested.  But looking at info below you might want to consider that since it is not widely used you may have trouble sharing picutres with others in this format.
This from wikapedia
While there is a modest increase in compression performance of JPEG 2000 compared to JPEG, the main advantage offered by JPEG 2000 is the significant flexibility of the codestream. The codestream obtained after compression of an image with JPEG 2000 is scalable in nature, meaning that it can be decoded in a number of ways; for instance, by truncating the codestream at any point, one may obtain a representation of the image at a lower resolution, or signal-to-noise ratio – see scalable compression. By ordering the codestream in various ways, applications can achieve significant performance increases. However, as a consequence of this flexibility, JPEG 2000 requires encoders/decoders that are complex and computationally demanding. Another difference, in comparison with JPEG, is in terms of visual artifacts: JPEG 2000 produces ringing artifacts, manifested as blur and rings near edges in the image, while JPEG produces ringing artifacts and 'blocking' artifacts, due to its 8×8 blocks.
JPEG 2000 has been published as an ISO standard, ISO/IEC 15444. As of 2012[update], JPEG 2000 is not widely supported in web browsers, and hence is not generally used on the Internet.

Similar Messages

  • JPEG 2000  & Camera Raw?

    I converted a nef  and a regualr jpeg to a Jpeg 2000 picture and used the various save options as a test.  In all cases I can not open it in camera raw, that option is grayed out.  Is this by design?
    I notice in Bridge Camera Raw Preferences  there are only options for jpeg and tiff images to be opened in camera raw.  Is this an oversight?
    Also, using Bridge one can not add keywords as the message appears "xxxxx.jpf can not store XMP metadata".
    In Windows Explorer the add tags box does not appear as an option either, so it can't be blamed on Bridge.
    Has any one else experienced these problems with j2000 images?  Is jpeg 2000 ahead of the curve, or just a flash in the pan?

    I understand that a flattened image composite is stored when PSD compatibility is set, but I didn't know it was a JPEG (or that there's a JPEG preview in a PSD file at all, save for maybe a thumbnail).
    Can you clarify that?  Is this JPEG preview you speak of the flattened composite, or are we talking about yet a different preview?
    And do we lose more than just layers, but also color depth when we re-open a PSD through Camera Raw?
    -Noel

  • JPEG 2000 conversion

    A client just asked me to deliver a video in JPEG2000. I don't see it as a export option. I did however reset my sequence settings to JPEG2000 compression, but what do i do next.  I am so not familier with this format.
    Scott

    Sorry, I know nothing about JPEG 2000 except that it is used for both very low end delivery such as mobile phones and very high end work like digital cinema.
    For grins, I took a sequence I was working on, set the sequence settings from ProRes to JPEG 2000, rendered, and it would not play back at all on my 8-Core in FCP.
    Exported that rendered timeline to a QuickTime movie, and it will play in QuickTime 7 Player, but only at 15 - 20 fps.
    We'll have to wait until someone with more knowledge steps in.
    MtD

  • JPEG 2000 2.0 and PSE7

    In Photoshop Element7 i can open a file saved as JPF (JPEG 2000 2.0) but i can't duplicate, do layers or do color variation with the image with the english version. I had the French version of PSE7 with no problems at all saving in JPEG or doing layers. Now when i'm saving in JPEG 2000 there's a new popup window and this is one of the message that i get (select options to save in extended JPEG2000 format(JPF) including an option to ensure comptability with minimal JPEG 2000 format (JP2) Selecting JP2 forces additional color contraints. Roll over an option...)

    I assume your JPF file is in 16 bit mode. Elements is rather limited in
    handling such files. You need to convert to 8 bits: >Image >Mode >8 bit
    mode.
    Juergen

  • Red Digital Cinema and JPEG 2000?

    I wonder if Premiere Pro 4.0 will suport the Red Digital Cinema cameras and the new Grass Valley JPEG 2000 cameras. I imagine there will be something new for Premiere Pro at NAB this year.

    >What features can we expect to see?
    Read Jim's answer again
    If anyone here is also a Beta tester, they will have signed an agreement not to talk about the software
    Anyone else who says anything doesn't have the software and is therefore only speculating
    When Adobe issues a press release or shows the product at a computer show, we will all know
    Right now, we don't even know IF Adobe is working on a next version, or IF they are having the programmers continue to refine and fix bugs in the current version

  • Hi, I need help and advice. Basically me and my ex partner both had iphones and synced it with the same computer under the same ID. We split i have a new laptop and now it keeps asking for the old ID or it'll erase my apps bought on theold account.

    Hi, I need help and advice. Basically me and my ex partner both had iphones and synced it with the same computer under the same ID. We split up and now im trying to get all my apps and info onto my new laptop with a new account but it keeps asking me for the old apple ID which she is still using and she changed the password. i tried backing it up but still nohing. When i try to back up purchased items being apps etc its keeps asking for the old one. help

    See Recover your iTunes library from your iPod or iOS device. But you'll still need the password.
    Once you have the computer authorized to use the account she could change the password again to stop you buying apps on her card (assuming it's not on yours!). It would lock you out of upgrading them too but they should work unless she uses the deathorize all feature.
    It depends on how amicable the split is...
    tt2

  • Aperture 3: Deleting raw files and making the jpeg my new master-

    Aperture 3 has made some great strides in making the following possible ( I posted this originally in 2007):
    What I'd like to do is shoot everything in raw + jpg, and then keep the raw files only for the important shots.
    I really like having the option of raw processing, but the storage demands are very heavy. If I could just make a selection of photos in a roll, and have a command to delete any unneeded raw files from the selected photos, while keeping the original jpgs as master, that would be great.
    Also, it would be great to be able to manipulate a raw file, and then when I'm satisfied with the image, to render a high-quality jpg from that raw file & make the jpg the new master, and then delete the raw file to free up disk space.
    Basically, I want the raw file safety net for everyday images, without gobbling up gigabytes of disk space <<<<<
    With Aperture 3, I can finally change the master to the jpg file, which solves part of the problem. But I still want to be able to manipulate my raw file, and render a new high-quality jpg master.
    Why don't Aperture / Lightroom do this? To me at least, it seems an obvious feature.

    I had a chance to talk to product managers from both Apple & Adobe about this at PhotoPlus Expo in NYC a couple years back. Both seemed receptive, but here we are - years later - no progress.
    I think part of the problem is that there's a purist mentality about RAW files. One should always shoot them - and then keep them forever- after all- they're your negatives!
    But what about event photography? Or weddings, as you pointed out? It makes no sense to burden your workflow & backup system with 4GB of RAW files of people grinning into the camera. Once the adjustments have been made, the RAW files are just a ball & chain on your data management. And let's not forget, once you really know what you're doing, your jpegs should be good most of the time anyway.
    I want RAW files as a safety net for errors in exposure and white balance. Once I know I have good photos, I don't need the safety net anymore- at least not at the price of all that hard disk space and transfer time for online backup. Of course, for my fine art stuff and important documentary work, I'll always keep the RAWs permanently. But not for routine parties/events.
    You put your finger on the problem with re-importing jpegs as a solution. You lose your metadata- rankings/album memberships, etc. This is no solution!
    What I want is simple, and it would be immediately useful to countless photographers:
    1) Let me batch-delete RAW files when the jpegs are ok.
    2) Let me do adjustments on my RAW file, render out a high-quality jpeg, and make the jpeg my new master.
    Whoever does this first - Aperture or Lightroom - that's the product I'll use.

  • Photoshop CS4 and JPEG 2000

    Does anybody know how to download the JPEG 2000 plug-in for Adobe Photoshop CS4 Extended?  I just checked my install discs and the plug-in is not on there.  Please help!  Thank you!

    here it is: http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=4050

  • JPEG 2000 and Adobe Photoshop Elements 9

    I've recently switched from APE5 to APE9 and noticed that my .JP2 files wouldn't open in APE9. I also noticed that a JPEG 2000 file extension wasn't available as one of the File Type options that APE9 could open or save to. Am I missing something? Is there a trick to get APE9 to recognize JPEG 2000 file types? Is there a plug-in I need to download? If there isn't anyway to get APE9 to open JPEG 2000 files, any recommendations on software out to that can do this for me? Freeware preferred.
    Jay

    There is no plug-in. Adobe dropped support for jpeg 2000 in PSE 8. If you have a mac, you can use Preview to save in another format. For windows, try Imagemagick (www.imagemacick.org), which is free.

  • Problem with "Insufficient data for image" and embedded JPEG 2000 Images

    I frequently download pdf from the http://www.glorecords.blm.gov web site.  They are reporting a problem with Reader Reader 10.1.4 and the pdf files they have.
    "("Insufficient data for image" and embedded JPEG 2000 Images)"
    I am experiencing the same "Insufficient data for image" error when opening their downloaded pdf and viewing in ACROBAT X 10.1.4.
    Can someone address this please?
    Win 7 sp1

    Read this:
    http://blogs.adobe.com/dmcmahon/2012/08/21/acrobat-insufficient-data-for-an-image-error-af ter-updating-to-10-1-4-or-9-5-2/

  • A very new user needs some help and advice....

    Hi,
    I have just taken the bold leap into Indesign and this is the first day of my 30 day trial.
    I need help and advice from you good poeple...please.
    I have been successfully creating A5 booklets (folded A4) using MS Word and printing to a desktop printer. MS Word sorted out my page order for me at printing time so the correct pages were put together.
    I have been reading as much information as I could find but I am still unable to do the same in Indesign.
    I'm looking forward to using the advanced layout features and having control over what I do but, I need to work out this basic step before I go any further.
    I hope what I have explained makes sense.
    Regards
    John

    So presumably you create a new document, A5 portrait, facing pages. Make sure your ducument page count is a multiple of 4.
    Create, type, tweak, ponder, edit, smile, save.
    To create you booklet using InDesign, from the file menu select Print Booklet.
    You will probably need to jump back and forth from the Print Settings button adjusting Paper Size, Orientation, Color, and from the Print Booklet tab set for 2-up Saddle Stitch.
    Much has been posted on this topic, these are the basics, Print Booklet is not the best module Adobe ever wrote, IMO

  • FR: JPEG 2000 Preview Format

    I'd like to get PNG Image Sequence added as a preview option for all sequences.  There are several benefits to using PNG for this purpose.  They're lossless, so the previews can be used for export without any degradation.  They're significantly smaller than other lossless options like TIFF or DPX.  They can can contain alpha channel for transparencies.  They can be up to 16 bit depth.  And perhaps one of the largest benefits is that as an image sequence, preview rendering can be interrupted and resume where it left off.  This is not possible with normal video files.  If you stop a render, you have to start over.  Not so with an Image Sequence.
    Combine JPG2000 previews with the new Background Rendering feature suggested below, and I think PP becomes a much better NLE.
    http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1369235?tstart=0
    Opinions?
    [Thread title changed to reflect new request.]
    https://www.adobe.com/cfusion/mmform/index.cfm?name=wishform
    *******Enhancement / FMR*********
    JPEG 2000 Previews
    I would love to have the JPEG 2000 format available as an option for previews in all sequence presets.
    Why is this feature important to you?
    The ideal preview format should offer:
    1. No resolution or frame rate limitations.
    2. Sufficient quality to be used for export.
    3. Can compete with UT or DNxHD for speed.
    4. Doesn't take inordinate room on the hard drive.
    5. Can be resumed if render is interrupted/Only changed frames need rerendering.
    JPEG 2000 is probably the ONLY option that offers all these features.

    Boy, you ain't kidding.
    My one minute test created UT, DNxHD and AVC-I files in less than a minute.  The MPEG I-Frame took less than 30 seconds.  The PNG files took over 14 minutes!  This format is not nearly as practical as I imagined it would be.
    Further, the PNG files actually took up more room than the UT, DNxHD and AVC-I files, though far less than TIFF and DPX, which are wholly too large to be practical.
    That still leaves us with something of an issue to be resolved, though.
    What preview format can offer these features (with this order of priority).
    1. No resolution or frame rate limitations
    2. Sufficient quality to be used for export
    3. Can compete with UT or DNxHD for speed?
    4. Doesn't take inordinate room on the hard drive
    5. Can be resumed if render is interrupted/Only changed frames need rerendering
    PNG fails big time at 3.
    DPX and TIFF fail at 3 and 4.
    UT fails at 5 and sometimes 2 (being 8 bit).
    Uncompressed fails at 4, 5 and sometimes 2 (being 8 bit).
    MPEG fails at 1, 2 and 5.
    DNxHD and AVC-I fail at 1 and 5.
    V-210 fails at 5.
    What's left?

  • How can I use JPEG-2000 images with my old Elements 2.0?

    Is there a plug-in or other step that will allow me to work with JPEG-2000 images using my Elements 2.0 software?

    I do apologize, as i should have asked what operating system you were using.
    Anyway, It looks like that plugin is to new for pse 2 on the mac side.
    I believe it only works in pse 6 and newer, though they used to have older versions, there doesn't seem to be any links to them.
    You should remove that plugin and for future reference, plugins/filters should go in the Plug-Ins folder, not in the photoshop elements 2.0 application package.
    Are you able to open the jpeg 2000 files in the Preview application?

  • How to create a lossy JPEG 2000 picture?

    Hi there.
    Now I am working on an app. to compare the quality between a traditional JPEG and the new JPEG2000 format.
    Although I did not find the ways to encord JPEG2000 format in basic JAI, another API jai_imageio-1_0_01 does provide the way to do it.
    The default parameter in the J2KImageWriteParam is for a lossless encord, the result is perfect, of course. But more importantly, I want to try the lossy ones so that I can reduce the outstream size.
    The problem is here, when I just change the encoderate throught the setEncordingRate method, the result is terrible, which I am sure is a failure. I do not know why. There are many parameters I can set, does it mean I should change several at the same time, not just the encodingrate? And if I change the writeparam should I change the readparam too to decord?
    My sample code is following, in it, I cpatured the screen as the source and write it into .jp2, then read it out to show.
    Please help me, thanks a lot.
    import java.awt.*;
    import java.awt.image.*;
    import java.awt.event.*;
    import java.io.*;
    import javax.media.jai.JAI;
    import com.sun.media.imageio.plugins.jpeg2000.*;
    import javax.imageio.stream.*;
    import javax.imageio.ImageIO;
    import com.sun.media.imageio.plugins.jpeg2000.J2KImageWriteParam;
    import javax.imageio.*;
    import javax.media.jai.operator.AWTImageDescriptor;
    import javax.media.jai.RenderedOp;
    class screen18 extends Frame{
         BufferedImage sh=null;//for Captured screen
         Rectangle screenSize;
         BufferedImage bi= new BufferedImage(1024, 768, BufferedImage.TYPE_INT_ARGB);           
         public screen18()
              addWindowListener(new WindowAdapter(){
              public void windowClosing(WindowEvent e){
              System.exit(0);
              screenSize = new Rectangle(Toolkit.getDefaultToolkit().getScreenSize());
              sh= new BufferedImage(1024, 768, BufferedImage.TYPE_INT_ARGB);      
              //Capture the screen
              try{
                   sh = (new Robot()).createScreenCapture(screenSize);
              }catch(Exception ex) {System.out.println(ex);}
         ImageWriter writer = (ImageWriter)ImageIO.getImageWritersByFormatName("jpeg 2000").next();
         ImageOutputStream ios = null;
         try {
              OutputStream os1 = new FileOutputStream("j2000.jp2");
              ios = ImageIO.createImageOutputStream(os1);
              writer.setOutput(ios);
              J2KImageWriteParam paramJ2K = new J2KImageWriteParam();
              //You can set whether it is lossy here
              //paramJ2K.setLossless(false);
              //paramJ2K.setFilter("w9x7");
              //paramJ2K.setEncodingRate(Double.MAX_VALUE*0.9);//key point
              System.out.println("JPEG2000 Parameter: ");
              System.out.println("getCodeBlockSize: "+paramJ2K.getCodeBlockSize());
              System.out.println("getComponentTransformation: "+paramJ2K.getComponentTransformation());
              System.out.println("getEPH: "+paramJ2K.getEPH());                               
              System.out.println("getLossless: "+paramJ2K.getLossless());
              System.out.println("getEncodingRate: "+paramJ2K.getEncodingRate());
              System.out.println("getFilter: "+paramJ2K.getFilter());           
              System.out.println("getProgressionType: "+paramJ2K.getProgressionType());           
              System.out.println("getSOP: "+paramJ2K.getSOP());
              System.out.println("getWriteCodeStreamOnly: "+paramJ2K.getWriteCodeStreamOnly());                     
              RenderedOp renImage7=AWTImageDescriptor.create(sh,null);
              IIOImage ioimage = new IIOImage(renImage7, null, null);
              writer.write(null, ioimage, paramJ2K);
              ios.flush();
              writer.dispose();     
         }catch (IOException ex) {System.out.println("Mistake is here when produce a J2K");}
              ImageReader reader1 = (ImageReader)ImageIO.getImageReadersByFormatName("jpeg 2000").next();
         try {                                              
              ImageInputStream iis = ImageIO.createImageInputStream(new File("j2000.jp2"));
              reader1.setInput(iis,false,true);
              J2KImageReadParam paramJ2K1 = new J2KImageReadParam();
              System.out.println(paramJ2K1.getDecodingRate());
              paramJ2K1.setDecodingRate(Double.MAX_VALUE*0.9);
                   bi = reader1.read(0, paramJ2K1);
              reader1.dispose();
         }catch (Exception ex) {System.out.println("Mistake is here when extract a J2K");}     
         public void paint(Graphics g)
              g.drawImage(bi,0,0,this);
         public static void main(String args[])
              screen18 s = new screen18();
              s.setSize(1024,768);
              s.show();
    }

    Hi Wayne,
    if you take a JPEG image from your file system as a source instead of the Robot, the lossy encoding works:
    sh = ImageIO.read((new File("C:\\Images\\Bild0.jpg")));instead of
    sh = (new Robot()).createScreenCapture(screenSize);and later...
    paramJ2K.setLossless(false);
    paramJ2K.setFilter("w9x7");
    paramJ2K.setEncodingRate(Double.MAX_VALUE * 0.5);//key pointBest regards
    Dominic

  • I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

    THE SHORTER STORY
    My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
    I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
    In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
    What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
    Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
    THE FULL STORY
    I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
    (1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
    (2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
    (3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
    (4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
    (5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
    (6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
    I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
    The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
    I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
    I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
    My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
    However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
    Modem
    Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
    Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
    Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
    Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
    ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
    Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
    Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
    Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
    WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
    Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
    MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
    MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
    Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
    iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
    iPad (1st generation)
    Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

    Thanks Bob Timmons.
    In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
    I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
    Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
    Create a wireless network
    Extend a wireless network
    Off
    Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
    Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
    DHCP and Nat
    DHCP Only
    Off (Bridge Mode)
    Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
    How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
    Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
    Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
    I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
    Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
    I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
    Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
    Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
    So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

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