JPEG and TIFF Photos Appear Blurry in Photoshop

Hello,
After placing my TIFF and JPEG files into photoshop they suddenly get very blurry and out of focus. When I open the original photos in finder they are clear. I am wondering what the problem is here.
I use Photoshop CS5.1.
Help appreciated.
Thank you!

I have a retina display computer. I think that may be the problem. It is frusterating though becasue now my photos all look really blurry and when I view them on another screen they are clear.
This is a screen shot of my image width etc etc.

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Why do my photos appear blurry unless i'm online?

SO all of my photos appear blurry or low quality and they all have a small circle in the right hand corner as if it has to download them from somewhere. the only way they show the proper resolution is when i'm connected to the internet after a few seconds of loading. This is bothersome as i already have them all backed up using dropbox (not icloud i don't use icloud so i don't even know where it could possibly be downloading from) and i would like to be able to view my actual photos in their entirety. Any help is welcome. Thank you!

This went wrong here:
I went back and found the photos in the back up machine (25000) and dumped them on the iPhoto icon.
Never import one Library to another. Every version and thumbnail is imported like a distinct photo, you lose all your Albums, Keywords etc., the link between Original and Previews is destroyed, the non-destructive editing feature is ruined and so on. In summary: it's mess.
The ! turns up when iPhoto loses the link to the original photo.
I would suggest that you restore that library from Time Machine again, and then try repair it.
Download iPhoto Library Manager and use its rebuild function. (In early versions of Library Manager it's the File -> Rebuild command. In later versions it's under the Library menu.)
This will create an entirely new library. It will then copy (or try to) your photos and all the associated metadata and versions to this new Library, and arrange it as close as it can to what you had in the damaged Library. It does this based on information it finds in the iPhoto sharing mechanism - but that means that things not shared won't be there, so no slideshows, books or calendars, for instance - but it should get all your events, albums and keywords, faces and places back.
Because this process creates an entirely new library and leaves your old one untouched, it is non-destructive, and if you're not happy with the results you can simply return to your old one.

Importing JPEG and TIFF

I have some jpeg and tiff images on a disc. I saved the images to my desktop and then imported them into FCP. The problem is that some of the files seem to be bad. Some have a red horizontal line through them and some have blue lines through them. I checked it on another computer and they read fine. I tried saving the images to the desktop a second time but now different images are bad. FCP will not read the bad files.
Any thoughts?

I have some jpeg and tiff images on a disc. I
saved
the images to my desktop and then imported them
into
FCP. The problem is that some of the files seem to
be
bad. Some have a red horizontal line through them
and
some have blue lines through them. I checked it on
another computer and they read fine. I tried
saving
the images to the desktop a second time but now
different images are bad. FCP will not read the
bad
files.
Any thoughts?
Bad quality when looking at the pictures via the
canevas on the computer or via an external screen ?
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Hi cathy69:
Thank you for your inquiry. I am pleased to assist you!
I hope you had a great weekend!
I see you are looking to change the boot order on your computer. Here is a link to 'Configuring the Boot Order in the System Bios" click here. Please let me know if you require further assistance.
Sparkles1
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the bottom right to say “Thanks” for helping!

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I recently upgraded to a new PC, on Windows 7. I've finally finished reinstalling everything and getting things back to "working order". But I'm noticing something very troubling. When I open previously edited photos in Photoshop, photos that I considered "final" (meaning they were print-ready), suddenly appear blurry. The same photos viewed on my website are crisp and look as I remember them looking...so it's not the monitor. Which leads me to believe that Photoshop is doing something odd to these pix.
Anybody have any ideas as to why the photos would appear blurry, but only in Photoshop?

OpenGL operation uses a smoother resampling, but if you're seeing it as "blurry" it could be that there are features configured on the GPU that suit gaming or something that are causing excessive blurring. Normally the differences between OpenGL-based display operations and non-OpenGL are almost unnoticeable.
Any way you could capture your screen with/without OpenGL and show what you're seeing here?
Here's the same image screen grabbed at 71% magnification showing the OpenGL / non-OpenGL difference in display on a properly working system.
If you're seeing more blurry images than the one on the left, then you have a specific problem you should work to get to the bottom of.
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Other than screen shots, for printing purposes, I want text and photo on jpeg or .tiff formats? The printer only accepts jpeg and tiff and can't use screenshots.

Other than screen shots, for printing purposes, I want text and photo jpeg or tiff formats

Open the screenshot in preview and export it as a JPG

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I'm using iPhoto 7.1 to manage my photos. My Digital SLR, the Canon 20D, can be set to save photos as both RAW (CR2 files) and Jpeg (JPG files). Both of these files can be imported into iPhoto with no problem.
The problem that I have is that these photos that should be identical, have two major discrepancies.
1. Their resolution are NOT the same. (3504x2332 for CR2, 3504x2336 for JPG)
2. The colors appear different (CR2 appears reddish, JPG appears normal)
Interesting to note: if I export the same CR2 file out of the iPhoto library (export it as Kind='original'), and open it with IrfanView running on Windows 2000, the photo is viewed with the expected resolution of 3504x2336 and the color appears normal (i.e. not reddish).
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OK, next RAW files again.
These hold the data the sensor 'saw' when you took the shot together with 'metadata' such as aperture, shutter speed, white balance settings, ISO setting etc - lots of data in fact.
Most programs do not alter RAW files at all - they are the digital negative and should not be altered.
The latest iPhoto treats all newly imported photos in this manner - RAW/JPG or other format. It keeps a copy of the original in a folder called originals, and any edits/crops you make are applied and saved either as a modified JPG or TIFF. This non-destructive editing is a great feature that many RAW editors allow so you can go back to the original image if you mess things up. Applying the principle to JPGs etc is equally as important.
Canon's Digital Photo Professional is a free RAW processor program you can download from their site - certainly worth a look, but you may well find iPhoto simpler if not as flexible. On Windows, not sure about Mac OS, DPP does actually alter (or add) some metadata to RAW files - it doesn't alter the 'sensor data' but somehow embeds edited values to the RAW file so they display as edited next time - you can go back to original but I doubt other software will understand these tweaks.
Digital cameras are getting better and better at getting white balance etc correct, however RAW files are great mainly for two things.
Firstly - in camera white balance settings are simply those applied to JPGs the camera produces. Set it to fluorescent and take a shot of a cloudy scene and the JPG may look awful. With the RAW you can change the white balance after the event and is a real image saver. I particularly like software that lets you use a 'dropper' to choose a neutral grey shade on the image to set the white balance.
Secondly - over/under exposure. As RAW files hold more light intensity detail you can often bring out shadow detail from underexposed images or recover blown highlights from images that are unusable as JPGs. There are limits to this latitude of course.
In camera JPGs are often all you need - the RAWs just give added flexibility.
Next thing I'd say is not to get too hung up about profiles at this stage.
Yes, you can pay for generic profiles or even expensive personalised profiles for the 20D - there are some gains in compatible software (sometimes the profiles are designed to work with particular software!). Not necesarily huge gains though, so I'd say keep it simple to start with.
If there's one thing it's worth profiling, then it's your monitor.
I often use the analogy of a TV with a video still image from DVD or VCR.
Say you adjust the brightness/contrast/colour/sharpness of the TV then the image can be made to look wildly different on different settings.
However the actual image being displayed is not itself altered at all by the DVD player or VCR on pause. Turn the TV off it goes black, but the DVD/VCR still outputs that same image. It's just displayed differently or not at all!
Translate this to editing photos.
The RAW or JPG will be processed by iPhoto according to a particular colour space, say sRGB or AdobeRGB - now how on earth do you know that the monitor's brightness/contrast/saturation are at the correct level to display the image correctly? Is it brightnes 50%/75%/20%?
The answer is the monitor profile which tweaks the output of the monitor towards a preset calibration - this is for a given brightness/contrast/colour setting (not all monitors have exhaustive adjustments but some do). Generic profiles which come with Macs are better than nothing, and indeed often quite close to an individually calibrated monitor profile.
You can however calibrate your monitor either by eye or using a hardware accessory.
Open your System Preferences folder and choose Displays.
Click the colour tab and remember the profile name highlighted!
Click on any others to see how different profiles affect the display - the other profiles will invariably be wrong for the monitor but they show the effect.
These other profiles DO NOT make you system display an image say as sRGB or AdobeRGB - what they imply is that the monitor can display the range of sRGB or AdobeRGB - it can't! It can display what IT is capable of displaying.
It is the image profile that makes software display it in the sRGB or AdobeRGB or other colour space. The monitor profile allows the image to be displayed more accurately by mapping available colours it can display or close fits to the one's the image contains.
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You can also buy hardware accessories to accurately calibrate your monitor (I use an EyeOne Display by Gretag Macbeth - older version - there are far more expensive and also reasonable cheaper options out there). The hardware devices basically cycle through a display of 'known colours'. The device's software knows what colour it's trying to display, the device usually hangs over the display and measures what's actually displayed, then reprograms the way the graphic card displays colours and also creates a custom monitor profile - this process of calibration optimises your monitor's display.
You can also calibrate or get custom printer profiles made to optimise printer output, but you won't be doing that. Some online photo sites do however supply profiles which match their photo printers so you can tweak your images to match output on their hardware.
Most photo sites that the public use however will assume that the images are sRGB. If you send an AdobeRGB image for printing it may be treated as sRGB and printed incorrectly if that photo printer's software doesn't take account of embedded profiles.
I said it was complex and confusing!
Continued again!
AC

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You are the man X!
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JPEG and TIFF Photos Appear Blurry in Photoshop

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