:( just bad luck

This is my second ipod mini now and its worst than the first, it keeps on skipping songs untill it finds one that plays and then it keeps on happining. Then whenever i turn it on it takes 10 seconds because the apple sign keeps coming on.
somebody please helpp me i'm going MADDDDDDDD!!!!

So what have you tried? These?
The Five Rs.

Similar Messages

MSI NX6800GT: Crap overclockability, or just bad luck?

Okay, I finally got my MSI GF 6800GT in today, and I must say that I'm rather disappointed. First off, it's reference design, and not the copper thingy I expected. Second, the card won't overclock good at all. When I get close to 390 core, 3dmark 03 starts to take pauses at about 3-5 secs all the time, then it carries on. What is this? Some kinda auto-limiting overclock barrier? There are NO artifacts or any other visual corrption on the screen when this happens. I've been overclocking video cards for many many years, and I'm used to artifacts as the natural sign of a max clock, not weird pauses like this. Is this usual on the new series from Nvidia? I've had ATi for over a year now, so all this stuff is new to me.
So anyway, any suggestions?

Quote
Originally posted by cgrossi
floppymaster, when u get o the max to the core clock, hangs might occur. that is the sympton for u to stop because u achieved it limits. the glitchs on screens only occur when u overclocked too much the memory clock.
No, the core artifacts, but in another way. Usally, memory artifacts looks like black squares popping up around the screen, while core artifacts are more like white dots or squares. When I got rid of the pausing, and pushed it further, the white artifacting from the core appeared - so it's all well!

I have had bad luck lately I lost my computer to water cant be fixed and now my IPOD has been stolen when I get a new one how can I get my I tunes,games on the new one without my computer or old I pod

I have had bad luck with electronics lately my computer got lost to water and cant be fixed now my Ipod has been stolen I reported it to Apple but now I need to know when I get a new one how can I get back my music and games etc. if I can get it just with my account

What kind of iPod are you getting to replace it? If it is an iPod Touch, and you are in the US, after you set up the Touch you can use the iCloud beta and download your previous music, books and app purchases directly to your Touch.

Killed two 890fxa-gd70s, my fault or bad luck?

Not sure where to start but I had an MSI 890fxa-gd70 (amd) board for 6 months in which it was overclocked since nearly day one, all good till recently. This past friday the board failed. Durring prime the system shut down, fans and all, and a burning smell came from the northbridge area. Once out of the case it seemed like the choke below the 8pin power connector, or at least VERY close to that area was the source of the smell, NO visual signs at all on either side of the board of anything at all. The top of the choke had maybe 2-3 dots from heat im guessing. Overclock wasnt even "extreme". Just a new setting I wanted to try.
Well I got my rma number monday and picked up the replacement board tuesday and it failed durring prime the SAME way as the last one. This time absolutly no signs, the chokes had no dots. Originally started the computer, basic function tested, rebooted and applied mild OC settings and prime tested, died in less than an hour of total use and I was only maybe 10mins into prime. Im not sure the replacement was even remanufactured but maybe a "couldnt duplicate issue" and thrown into a white box to be given out. There was a capacitor right above the 1st pcie16 slot than was scratched with a slight dent and a scatch near the bottom of the north bridge heat since from someone removing their video card i guess.
So what the heck, is this bad luck or am I causing the issue? I am suspicious that I have too many fans on the mobo. My fan arrangement changed recently about the same time all this started. I have 4 120mm fans for radiators(2 kuhler 120 and 2 corsair 120), kuhler 920 pump, and the corsair mem twin fans driven off the mobo. Previously when I was overclocking I only had 2 120mm fans, pump, and mem fans on for a while but recently off, and back on when I added the other 2 fans for the radiator. Could this be partly to blame? Regardless Im planning on removing all fans from the board next time except the 2 kuhler ones being controlled by the pump.
I know overclocking is running outside rated settings but no one buys a board like this to run at stock settings, thats why they advertise all the OC features and even have a clear cmos button on the i/o pannel.
Keep in mind i have done gaming at 4255mhz cpu and 2900ish nb, but wasnt prime stable very long, while the board failed settings where as followed:
overclock that both failed on was 4140mhz (230x18)
nb was aprox 2900mhz 1st failure and 2760mhz (aprox) 2nd time
1.40v cpu vdd
1.25v cpu-nb on 1st failure and 1.21ish on 2nd failure
1st failure had a few other voltage settings up a bit, 2nd failure all others where auto except memory at 1.655v memory spec
power supply is a corsair gs800 watt:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...orsair%20gs800
mother board:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130274
setup:
rosewill blackhawk case
Msi 890fxa-gd70 mobo
amd 1100t x6
antec kuhler 920 modded for 2 120mm radiators and resivout
corsair 8GB dominator gt memory 1866mhz 4dimms
msi gtx560ti twin frozr ii
1 corsair f120ssd and 1 7200rpm seagate 1TB drive
corsair GS800 psu
8 120mm fans and twin corsair memory fan that comes with dominator gt memory
So am I causing the issue or a case of bad luck and not to worry? Im really wondering if its the fans, thus why the asus crossfire has so many extra power connections on the board. I just figured the board had all those fan connections it must have been able to handle it, all but one was being used, maybe they didnt plan on 120mm fans being used in most of them.
I do wanna say Im glad msi has been friendly and am so glad they allow me to drop off and pick up since I live/work nearby. Today I dropped off the bad rma unit and they said they would give me a "new" one, probably a new refurb, but they told me to pick it up tomorrow because they are gonna burn test it overnight so I dont have any issues with the next one. Them stress testing it was nice. I would discuss my setup with them so we could both learn from it but the people I dealt with didnt seem to care how it went out.
Thanks for input guys, dont wanna waste my time or theirs smoking another board. Hope the next one does well or may need to look into a crossfire v. I have always liked MSI and also use their gtx560 ti.

manual settings. I wish I wrote my settings down other than just a saved profile, guess I should have also had my bios backed up too
I have played with a bunch of different settings but 4025mhz (230x17.5) was prime stable for one hour so i used that as my stable oc with only 1.40v on cpu vdd, think it even did an hour on 1.38v too if I remember but left it at 1.40 for good measure. Which if not mistaken is the max normal range the cpu is rated for and used durring normal operation when it ramps to 3.7ghz on stock settings.
I have done gaming (crysis2 w/dx11 patch and cod blackops) on 4255mhz with 1.43v. Would easily play till I got tired after an hour of gaming, but would fail prime within 7-8mins...Would shut down and have fans all running and needed to cycle psu. I have always wondered if that was a psu issue since both games use all 6 cores but same time prime IS A KILLER so figured was just the cpu
When the board failed settings where as followed:
overclock that both failed on was 4140mhz (230x18)
nb was aprox 2900mhz 1st failure and 2760mhz (aprox) 2nd time
1.40v cpu vdd on both times
1.25v cpu-nb on 1st failure and 1.21ish on 2nd failure
memory run in the 1840mhz range on 4 dimms
1st failure had a few other voltage settings up a bit (some where most 2 ticks above auto but sb 1.22v)
2nd failure all others where auto except memory at 1.655v memory spec and like mentioned cpuvdd 1.40, even nb was auto

Bad luck...solution or not?

Hi,
well not my day today.
Wanted to go back to iphoto 8 so decided to to use TM to do so.
Supposed to be easy.
Well not luck or very bad luck you decide!
My HD crashed!!! heard strange clicks then nothing.
No more mounting, disk warriors cannot access it ( not existing) disk repair no accessing it at all.Try to mount it on another computer...no response.
It looks like it is dead. Cant believe it.
did a back up on another external drive I hade just in case.
Now what ? I have my iphoto library but is has been updated for iphoto 2011 and no more of my 2008 one.
Is there a way to go back to iphoto 2008 anyway?
help would be nice.

To re-install iPhoto
1. Put the iPhoto.app in the trash (Drag it from your Applications Folder to the trash)
2. In the Finder using the Go menu and selecting Go To Folder
In the resulting window type
/var/db/receipts/
A Finder window will open at that Location. Find and remove any pkg file there with iPhoto in the name.
3. Re-install 08
Regards
TD

String of bad luck, caps lock is flashing once every few seconds

So lets start off with the beginning of the bad luck, first i was watching a youtube video and deicided to go make a snack b/c i was hungry, when i came back my compuuter had shut itself off, overheating wasnt uncommon so i checked the how hot the computer was over the processor and it was coo and not hot at all, so i turned it back on, and i didnt get a thermal shutdown message, so i was a little confused and started checking for the error, the first thing was the power, in which it said "9% availiable(plugged in, not charging)" so i first made sure it was plugged in and everything a bit confused, still did it, and then i googled it, and apparently i had to uninstall the apci from device manager, so i did the ~11 step solution that had helpe so many people, and then it still was like that, so then i used the HP assistant to check my battery, and i needed to replace it, but on the way i noticed i had "system updates" and such i was bummed i had to get a new battery(To put it simply, im poor) and decided to update my system at the very least, maybe the HP assistant was wrong and after the update the battery would register as good again, with little hopes on that(i knew that the chance was near 0%) i updated, and one of the updates were BIOS updates, so half way through downloading my sister decided to power-cycle our router, as our router is a pretty bad router and every now and then our internet would slow to the point of pretty much being non-existant, so then my computer resets i get a black screen and capslock starts blinking twice, i use my issters computer to google it, my BIOS is corrupt, so i use windows + b + the power button, to try and restore my BIOS, during it flushing my computer overheats, and now when i turn it on its a black screen with the capslock blinking once every few seconds, i havnt been able to find a fix, can anyone help me? also i should mention the tag on my HP is worn out pretty bad i can barely salvage any info off it which is pretty bad, all i know is that its an hp pavilion G4 with AMD radeon GPHX, and 8mb of memory

Hi ,
Welcome to the HP Forums! To help you get the most out of the HP Forums I would like to direct your attention to the HP Forums Guide First Time Here? Learn How to Post and More. Thank you for posting. I have read your post, and I understand that you had experienced a series of issues, and now your laptop cannot start. Below is a link could help you to diagnose the problem of your laptopHP Notebook PCs - Computer Does not Start (Windows 7, Vista, XP) If the laptop could back to start, you could use this link to reload the BIOS. If you find out it is a hardware issue, please use the following link http://www.hp.com/contacthp to create a case for your issue, and contact HP. If you live outside the US/Canada, please click the link below to get the contact information for your region.http://www8.hp.com/us/en/contact-hp/ww-phone-assist.html Let me know if you need any other assistance. Good luck,

HT1206 i have had bad luck with computers laitly and have 5 pc allready authorised now i have a new one i cant authorise it so i can not access my itunes account can u deauthroise my pc from my accont so i can access it again

i have had bad luck with computers laitly and have 5 pc allready authorised now i have a new one i cant authorise it so i can not access my itunes account can u deauthroise my pc from my accont so i can access it again
<Email Edited by Host>

http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1420

No freeze, crash or issue - just dumb luck!

Obviously there are major issues and I'll tell you of mine since I've yet to read of this one. I went through the downloading and installing the required iTunes version 7.0 or something and that went just fine - although I hesitated at first because that update screwed up my PC a few months back. Then it asked if I wanted to install the new version 2.0 of the iPhone software - when I said OK it said I had the most recent version 1.4.4 (or whatever) and it would check for updates on July 18. After looking for an answer on this board and the overwhelming number of problems we are having, I guess I'm lucky I can still receive and make calls and that all my stuff is still there. I don't think anything's been changed and I think I'll wait on the upgrade - I'm a Vista person too (that went well also!). Good luck everyone.

The thing to remember as well, is the number of problems seen here are only a small fraction of the total number of iPhone owners. Now I feel really bad for those who've attempted a download/install of 2.0 and are having issues. But this is also a prime example of why it's good to wait to install an update. I'd say waiting a couple of days is a good idea. Let the new phone be out, and just give it a few days to let people activate. Then by like Monday, or Tuesday of next week go for the download. Also by then hopefully there will be a slowdown in people calling AppleCare, so if you should have a problem getting help should be easier.
I really do understand the frustration, I have had issues with my phone getting updates. But getting angry about it isn't going to change the problem. Nor is yelling at the customer care, it's not there fault the problem came up, nor is it there fault that it affected you.

Gone through three 3G S'...bad luck or what?

My first 3G S, I was so excited and when I got it home, I realized the difference between the screens was a little too yellow. Compared to my 3G, my black dog looked brown in the pictures and the screen actually hurt my eyes some to look at. After going through 4 different people at the store, I got it exchanged and received a new one with a better screen but some bright red stuck pixels. Embarrassed to go back into the store, I called Apple Care who was happy to send me a replacement. This phone has the icons at the bottom of the phone menu on top of each other. So the "recents clock" is inside the "favorites star" and the "voicemail icon" is inside of the "keypad" icon. I am going back into the store after being advised for quicker service from Apple Care on the phone to get a new phone after a restore the phone did the same thing. What is up with this?! Why am I having such luck? Has anyone else had so many issues? I pray the next one I get will be fine! I just feel like you pay so much for something brand new, you'd expect it to be right!

I've never had a problem with an iphone - original or the the new 3Gs, nor has anyone I know personally.
Sorry you are having terrible luck. I hope the next one will be right.

I'm having bad luck with motherboards from Newegg.

Hi all,
I have successfully built several systems from the ground up with motherboards from Microcenter. However, I'm having no luck with the 2 motherboards i got from Newegg.
The first one, ASUS P6T, would not reboot unless the reset button was pressed a few times. Then i ordered the GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD5 X58. I had high hopes but it too came out of the box with a problem. It start/stops/starts/stops.... I discovered that if i remove the 8pin power connecter, the mb starts but still will not post. I removed and replaced all components including the PSU and still no joy.

The original PSU i got two weeks ago for the new system is a PC Power & Cooling (PP&C )910 watt unit. I think thats plenty of power. The PSU tester diaplays the following:
+5V = 5.3
-12V = 12.2
+12V1 = 12.3
+12V2 = 12.3
+3.3V = 3.4
5VSB = 5.3
P.G. = 300ms
I plugged the PP&C 910w PSU as well as a completely different 400w PSU into the GA-EX58-UD5 with the following components removed - no drives, cards or case fans and all drive/audio/usb connectors disconnected - just the i7 920 CPU and ram - the mb acted in the same manner. Actually, its the PSU that's reacting to the motherboard i think. I can hear both PSU's "click" like its tripping a breaker then resetting - hence the mb starting and stopping.
Anyway, after i removed some and then all of the ram, the system started without stopping but still no post. I have also been getting a debug error code of 62. From what i understand, the error code indicates that the motherboard is not recognizing the ram.
It would appear that your both wrong in this case.
I searched the internet and found some posts where either the bios has to updated to accept ram i have or the ram has to be replaced with something the GA-EX58-UD5 likes. In one post, the current ram, Crucial DDR3 1066 (thats what i got), was replaced with Corsair XMS3 1333 ram and the system booted up.
I'll keep you updated.

Having bad luck with new PSUs again

Hi,
I just recently bought an Antec 430w truepower PSU to replace my old Qtec "550W" psu since the Antec 430 w has greater max currents as I am going to upgrade my video card and add an extra HDD.
When I try to run CPU-intensive programs, my system eventually halts with the Antec power supply installed, with the Qtec, everything ran fine. This is running a program I made that utilises the video card (open GL application) whilst running winamp.
My system is:
MSI K7N2 Motherboard
Ahtlon AMD 2600+ 333 FSB
512 MB DDR 3200 (400 Mhz)
1 HDD
2 CD/CDRW drives
also:
Geforce 3 ti 200
Soundblaster Live soundcard
onboard network
floppy
Antec truepower 430W or Qtec "550W" dual fan gold.
I took results using MSI PC Alert before hand from the Qtec power supply and when I got the Antec I took similar results. The results are for the CPU vCore, 3.3v, +5v & +12v rails.
===============================
Qtec:
Code: [Select]
QTEC 550 vcore 3.3 +5 +12
idle 1.63+/-0.02 3.37+/-0.04 5.12+/-0.01 12.03 +/- 0.03
active 1.62 to 1.65 3.33 5.13 12.00
Qtec proved stronger than Antec...
===============================
ANTEC 430 TruePower (case open)
Code: [Select]
ANTEC 430 TP vcore 3.3 +5 +12
idle 1.67+/-0.03 3.29+/-0.03 4.97+/-0.01 11.94 +/- 0.0
active ----------------- SYSTEM HALT -----------------------
===============================
MAX AMPS
Code: [Select]
Q-Tec 550W Antec 430W TP
3.3 20 28
+5 35 36
+12 14 20
This can prove that either my Antec powersupply I received is not doing the business (430 W) and is not as good as Qtec "550 W", Why? I don't know if I should take it back and get a replacement since it boots up my machine fine, just the rails are very weak for the Antec which is supposed to prove stronger than the QTec.
What should I do if I want to add new peripherals to the system? Going back to the old Qtec 550 will work for me :P

alright 12v pin in, didnt do any good, probably made it worse.. my screen jittered upon startup which was the sign of the power going bad (which was happening before the system halt before). Replaced it back with my beloved old Qtec everything working fine and back to normal.
I may note that while taking both results the 12v pin was not used.
The antec would not give enough power somewhere resulting in a halt, probably to the video card or something. I'll stick with my Q-tec for now and install this video card and see what happens, I've removed one CD drive (which wasnt working anyway) lets hope that can compensate for the extra current needed?
The new video card is the MSI 59000xt Vtd-128 Btw

Bad luck or something else???

Recently I returned my first Intel iMac after 7 days due to the not waking from sleep issue that many others seem to be experiencing. The problem actually worsened with the first system to the point where sometimes the system would not even boot from a completely shut down state. Needless to say I exchanged the system for a new one. I have only had the new system for a few days and at first everything seemed fine. Unfortunately it would now appear as if a new issue is developing. It seems as though 50% of the time when the system wakes from sleep the fan or fans inside the computer run up to high speed and stay there. Furthermore today while using the system (literally while working on a word document) it spontaneously shut itself off. When I pushed the power button to turn it back on the fans again ran to high and stayed there.
I don't want to turn this thread into a PC vs MAC thread however I have to be honest. This is my first forray into the Mac world and so far the experience has not been pleasant. Although PCs have their fair share of problems I never had these kind of things occuring. The only thing that is installed on this machine is Office 2004 and iWork. The keyboard and mouse are the stock apple versions that were included. The system passes all hardware tests. Apple support suggests reinstalling the OS and failing that taking it in for repair but with all the problems that I have already had, coupled with what I have read from other users on this forum, will anything actually come of it? What is the point of reinstalling the OS when this install is virtually fresh? The shame of it is, if it were not for these issues, I would absolutely love the system. The experience of using the Mac is so much better than the PCs I have used for years.
Any suggestions?

According to your profile you are running system version 10.4.4. Many of the issues that occurred with 10.4.4 were corrected with 10.4.5 which came out a few days ago.
The first thing to do is to update your system to 10.4.5 to make sure you have the latest fixes and patches in place. You also installed Office 2004 but since it was released there have been at least three updates to it. Did you download and install those updates? Office 2004 does not run native, but runs using rosetta. It is possible that the non updated version of Office will not run under rosetta or run as well as the updated version.
Also, when you set your Mac to sleep try unchecking the "put the hard disk to sleep if possible" option. The sleep issue could have something to do with the sleep management system of the OS and the drive itself. While you would expect that kind of issue to be solved before the product was released, maybe for some reason it wasn't and there is some sort of incompatibility there. Frankly, I never use sleep, just a screen saver on my Macs and all five of them run 24/7.
Maybe on of these suggestions will help.
Good Luck!!
By the way, your experience is not usual. If you judge Macs from reading out h ere on these forums then you are getting a skewed view as people don't post out here that everything is fine, they just post their problems and questions. It's kind of like going to the hospital and asking why everyone is sick!!

Charging display error - just bad looks or chargin...

1. During charging my N85 (wall or USB), after an hour or so, the animation bar gets stuck at 2 bars. If I disconnect and connect again, it charges for maybe 5-10 minutes and then says it is full.
Is this just a "2-bar" showing instead of a "full bar", or something wrong with charging?
2. When I disconnect my wall charger, the animation still runs on the phone as if it is charging.
Is this just some mistake or does it mean that the phone actually has no idea how/when it should get charged
I would be most grateful with some thoughts on this. The battery does not last very long (and the phone is 2 weeks old), but that is probably due to heavy usage....
Cheers,
K

do you have the latests firmware for your phone?
plug in *#0000# from your home screen the current version is v30..... i suggest you update your phone if you do not have this version as most likely it is due to the firmware. you can also use FOTA on your phone and see if there is an update you are looking in settings -phone- device updates section i am not exactly sure but you are looking for that section in your phones menu system. (FOTA - firmware over the air)
http://europe.nokia.com/get-support-and-software/download-software/device-software-update
You know what I love about you the most, the fact that you are not me ! In love with technology and all that it can offer. Join me in discovery....

MOVED: Killed two 890fxa-gd70s, my fault or bad luck?

This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Undervolting & Modding Corner.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=151849.0

manual settings. I wish I wrote my settings down other than just a saved profile, guess I should have also had my bios backed up too
I have played with a bunch of different settings but 4025mhz (230x17.5) was prime stable for one hour so i used that as my stable oc with only 1.40v on cpu vdd, think it even did an hour on 1.38v too if I remember but left it at 1.40 for good measure. Which if not mistaken is the max normal range the cpu is rated for and used durring normal operation when it ramps to 3.7ghz on stock settings.
I have done gaming (crysis2 w/dx11 patch and cod blackops) on 4255mhz with 1.43v. Would easily play till I got tired after an hour of gaming, but would fail prime within 7-8mins...Would shut down and have fans all running and needed to cycle psu. I have always wondered if that was a psu issue since both games use all 6 cores but same time prime IS A KILLER so figured was just the cpu
When the board failed settings where as followed:
overclock that both failed on was 4140mhz (230x18)
nb was aprox 2900mhz 1st failure and 2760mhz (aprox) 2nd time
1.40v cpu vdd on both times
1.25v cpu-nb on 1st failure and 1.21ish on 2nd failure
memory run in the 1840mhz range on 4 dimms
1st failure had a few other voltage settings up a bit (some where most 2 ticks above auto but sb 1.22v)
2nd failure all others where auto except memory at 1.655v memory spec and like mentioned cpuvdd 1.40, even nb was auto

Having bad luck with external drives

I installed Sonnett drives about 4 months ago ( 4TB ) Two drives have already gone bad. Sonnett has been good and shipped new ones but I wonder if I can keep things simple and go back to internal ATA
drives. I can install 3 1TB drives in my mac pro and that will give me enough space. ( and I won't miss the fan noise in my very small suite ) My question. I shoot in XDCAM HD, capture in ProRes. Will these internal drives be fast enough? Any thoughts? Thanks for any and all input.
Best,
Tom

GO HERE and download the AJA Data Rate Calculator Application Version 6.0.1.
It's a tiny little app that helps you benchmark drive throughput.
With an eight drive system (in RAID 0) I'd hope you'd be generating over 400 MB/s
A single internal isn't going to get that. If you were to connect the three as a RAID 0, you should get north of 200MB/s.
Whether this will work for you or not all depends on how many streams you need to pull through the system. The number of streams includes renders, effects, and so on.
x

:( just bad luck

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