JUST ONE MORE RAM QUESTION

can someone do a quick test for me...
1. can someone open up safari and iMovie together and see how much RAM the 2 use together
2. then, see how much they take up separately
3 also, for another RAM test, can someone open up both the apps. in iWork (not the microsoft package) and see how much RAM the two take up together, and then separately
4. then the same thing with Front Row
thanks, i'm just really trying to decide whether to get the Core Solo with 1 GB of RAM or the Duo with 512 mb of RAM, and those are the main apps. i will use
also, if you have front row running, can you do other things at the same time?

Get the solo with 1GB, then upgrade the chip later, costs will be down quickly with the next 64 bit core comin out, and have an even faster duo Yonah down the line as well. Your apps will run fine with 1GB of RAM, I recommend at least 1GB for either the DUO or the Solo. Even the in store mini demos are runnning 1GB I hear, Duo or Solo. With memory creeps, doesn't matter if you have 1 or 2 CPUs, you're still bound to RAM limits.
My personal experience with the solo at 512 was it was unbearable just doing nominal tasks, went to 2GB and she smokes on anything, I imagine 1GB will be good as well.
Can't wait to toss my new Seagate Momentus in there, then a Merom chip down the road. Which by then, a 2.0 Duo Yonah will be 250.

Similar Messages

One more ram question

I'm going to get a 2 gig ram memory for my new iMac (2.4 ghz, 320 hard drive, 20" screen with new thin keyboard, isight camera, etc.) and can I just add the 2 gig to the one extra slot and leave my other 1 gig in there making it 3 gigs of ram? I have read in some places it's best to have even memory in each slot but in other areas I have read it's ok to have them uneven.
I'd sure like some feedback before I purchase the 2 gigs of ram.
Thank you!
Martha

YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!

Just one more liccle question.....

Im seriously considering reinstalling OSX to reclaim some space. But how would i go about this and keep all my apps? How can i back them up? Just drap them to an external HD? Is that it? I dont want to be stuck with a useless laptop with none of my Apps!
Jimbob

Hi Jimbo456
In addition to Mr. Kracinski post, there is application that perform as uninstaller: app delete
http://reggie.ashworth.googlepages.com/
http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/systemdiskutilities/appdelete.html
If you really want to experience reinstalling OS X, fell free to do so, opt out the language, printer driver, ms office demo and iwork trial, and all application you don't want to use.
And your apps are third party apps, if it is a simple apps (freeware), just download new one and you might get latest versioon too. And for license apps, make sure you take out the license from your macbook first before you format your macbook and you might have to re-install it.
Remember to deauthorize your songs from iTunes if you have any, and back it up as well as your other data.
Good Luck.

Just One More Thing (or maybe two) ;-)

OK, so iTunes 10.
I've restored the colour:
http://obamapacman.com/2010/09/how-to-add-color-icons-apple-itunes-10-gray-sideb ar-mod/
I've removed the Ping dropdown:
http://www.cultofmac.com/how-to-get-rid-of-the-ping-drop-down-menu-in-itunes/606 02
I've removed Ping from the sidebar:
http://gigaom.com/apple/apple-releases-itunes-10-1/
I've re-horizontalized the traffic lights:
http://www.cultofmac.com/fixing-itunes-10-minimize-maximize-close-buttons-how-to
It's almost ok.
But.... there's just one more thing.
Is there a fix for resizing album art?
Currently there are three options: Small, Medium, Large. That's it. The drag-to-resize-to-whatever-size-you-want option has gone.
Oh! Actually, there is another thing.
Album name and artist is now listed to the right of the album art, not underneath it. This takes up a lot of horizontal space. It would be far better to return the album name and artist listing to below the album art picture, in my humble opinion. Anyone know of a fix for this?
Thanks in advance,
Martin

Turn on iCloud and make sure you have an account.
Then got to Settings > iCloud > turn on Calendar and turn off the other options.
Same for MacBook.
I prefer OSX Mountain Lion (OSX 10.8.2) on the MacBook Pro for using iCloud. It includes more of the iCloud features that were missing in previous OSX versions.

Connecting to the internet + one more Macbook question

I've just noticed that I haven't updated my profile, but I am no longer using an eMac. That machine just died on me, so I've purchased my first Macbook. I've also moved into a new apartment, and cannot get connecting using the apartment's existing ethernet connection.
My girlfriend has a cable modem and uses an ethernet cable to connect her PC. Our compters are on the same table, so we share the ethernet cable. But when I plug it ino my Macbook, no dice. Can't reach the internet. Any clues? I don't know a lot about internet connections, but I have my network settings set for a DHCP connection, and I'm told that it's all set correctly and should work. Maybe my girlfriend's connection only allows for one computer in the apartment?
One more question: I don't like the color scheme on this new Macbook as much as I did my old eMac. On this one, the whites (for instance, the background of this page) seem "too white." So much so that it hurts my eyes. When I turn the brightness down, it makes the blues and grays look dull. But when I turn the brightness back up, the whites are blinding. Has anyone else noticed this?
eMac 40GB 1.25 GHz G4 Mac OS X (10.3.9)

If your Sky router is anything like my Netgear, the problem is the way you have to enter the WEP password on a Mac. IIRC, there are a couple of options for the password format, and you need to choose the right one. I think they were Hex and ASCII. My password has to be entered as 26 characters of Hex - that's how the passkey is displayed in the router when you enter the password there for the first time.
On a Windows machine, I just key that password in full. On my Macs, I have to tell it that I'm using Hex, not ASCII - there's a drop down box with all the various options somewhere that allows you to select the encryption type and the key format.
For some reason, OS X isn't clever enough to work out whether you are entering Hex or ASCII.
If you get really stuck, you can always disable WEP on the router - log in using a wired connection (usually you type 192.168.0.1 into Safari) and set wireless security to none. Check that your macbook can now connect wirelessly, then re-enable security, making a note of the new passkey.
Might be worth doing this anyway, and choosing a more secure setting.

Sorry. One More OnyX Question!

Sorry. I just realized I had one more question pertaining to OnyX. When I'm on the Optimization page, it says to either "update" or "complete optimization" options for optimization. What do either of those options mean? I'm just a little scared to try any of those things if I don't know what they do.
Thanks,
Rodriguez_Prime
iBook G4 14'' 30GB HD 1.2 GHz PowerPC 256MB Mac OS X (10.4.9) (RED) 2nd Gen 4GB iPod Nano•••Black 1st Gen 2GB iPod Nano

Rodriguez,
If you value your data, you will sit down and understand what it means to backup your data. Lack of patience is no excuse. You'd have even more lack of patience with your machine when you lose it all. Keep at least two copies of everything at all times. Don't reformat your hard drive without making sure there are two external copies of your data. Methods of backing up vary by individual. If you are the kind who lacks patience, run a clone every night the weather is known to be good with Superduper. It has the least complicated interface. Use a couple external Firewire hard drives at least the size of the internal hard drive to make the clone. An iPod is not a backup, since software copying music from the iPod to the computer is unreliable.
Upgrade only when you need to, and are aware that everything you have works with the update before you do upgrade. And repair permissions before and after with Applications -> Utilities -> Disk Utility.
Upgrade and backup only when you have no peripherals attached other than Apple's own (i.e. keyboard, mouse). A display is not affected by updates or backups, as long as there is no USB or Firewire plugged into the display.

Hehe one more speedfan question

Ok i realise that ive asked this before, but im sure that p2 diode is giving me bogus readings.
My p4 has the stock hs, with the shitty normal heat pad thingy and right this moment my cpu is at 30-31c (alledgedly) and my mboard at 30c (which i can believe).
Sorry to sound like a nagging old woman or something but i just cant believe my cpu is at 30c with stock hs.
Alternative settings give me 45c for cpu which seems right to me.
One more last thing what is the p2 diode?
Am i right in thinking p2 diode is built into the cpu and thermistor is part of the mboard?????????????

I was in the exact same boat as you when I originally fired up my comp...I wasn't too worried about the temp cause 45C with stock cooling sounded right...however, when I changed my hsf to the thermalright SP-94 with a vantec tornado 80mm, installed with artic silver 5, I was still getting 45C. So I re-installed the hsf to ensure I didn't do something totally crazy, fired up once more, and guess what temp I got with thermistor diode? that's right...45C. I then switched to PII diode and started getting MUCH more realistic temperatures. So believe what you like, but I'd stick with the PII diode readings if I were you...at least until a response from MSI is given.

[solved] One more conky question (convert cpu temp from C to F)

Okay, one more and then conky is finished I want to convert my cpu temp from C to F because it's just easier to understand for me, I am an american ... I've tried various ways I've found on these forums, but none of them seem to work, here's my cpu temp conky script:
${execi 1200 echo $(($(cat /sys/bus/pci/drivers/k10temp/0000:00:18.3/temp1_input) / 1000)) C}
Last edited by Mr_ED-horsey (2011-07-21 01:26:16)

What's the output of
cat /sys/bus/pci/drivers/k10temp/0000:00:18.3/temp1_input
? It should read about 55 C.
I have no idea how the sensors work, I've never used them, but you can doublecheck the conversion using just about anything, even google: http://www.google.pl/search?q=55+c+in+f … =firefox-a

One more vPC Question

The scenario is two Nexus 5K vPC domains connected to each other in a bow tie.
If you went into switch 1 and did a "sh etherchannel" or "sh port-channel" or whatever the devil the command is, would it show the uplinks in the peer switch (2) as being part of the channel or just its own local uplinks?

Essentially you are correct in that switch1 will only use it own ports to send traffic to the upper pair of Nexus switches.
But it is misleading to say it is not the same port channel because it is even from a data plane perspective because all ports are forwarding ie. STP has not blocked any member ports. I do understand your point that with a stacked pair of switches, for example, any of the available links could be used and this is not the case here or maybe a better way of putting it is it is not the case from switch1's perspective.
If, as Glen suggested, you look at it from the perspective of a device connected to switch1 and switch2 with an active/active configuration there are four links available, all forwarding traffic.
I actually think the first diagram you posted explains how a double sided vPC works far more clearly than the second ie. from a logical perspective it is just one high bandwidth path.
Jon

One more ultrabeat question....

hello folks...
i have an idea which i want to try but have no clue how to get it done in ultrabeat...
so i load three samples in ultrabeat (with drag & drop) say 1.snare 2.hi-hat and 3.one more hi-hat
now is it possible to have one hi-hat in 1/8 resolution playing in the pattern and other in 1/16 resolution (at the same time) and is copied to logic when i drag the pattern of it. hope i am clear here with the question....
i am not able to do this because when i change the RESOLUTION in the lower options it changes resolution of every sample loaded (1-25)
waiting for an answer....

In short... No!
The resolution parameter affects the 'size' of each step for all sequences in a pattern.
Maybe you could program one of the parts in a second pattern set to the correct resolution, import that MIDI region, the merge the two regions.
Or maybe run 2 instances of Ultrabeat??
HTH
CCT

One more memory question

Hi again everybody,
I just realized I forgot to ask one more thing about memory. Does anyone know, using System.setProperty, what the command is to set the JVM to a specific size inside the program? I don't mean setting the memory size permanently, I mean setting it just for the run of the program. I'm trying to get my application not to depend on the command line so I can take it out of my IDE.
Thanks,
Jezzica85
Edited by: jezzica85 on Apr 10, 2008 8:31 PM

Yeah Kajbj I agree with you only from external side we can set the heap memory size.
As you told already it is impossible to set the heap memory size dynamically with in the program.
Suppose Task A has B,C,D tasks and we want to set different set different size of heap memory to these tasks
in this case lets have B,C and D as separate processes and invoke them from A with the heap memory sizes we wanted.
Its just an idea feel free it criticize it.
*If our tasks are as simple as the ones i have told this will be good otherwise it becomes complete mess.
Thanks
D. L. Kumar

One more generics question

One more dumbshit generics question...
Is there a way to do this without the warnings or the @SuppressWarnings({"unchecked"})
   * Returns the index of the last occurrence of the specified element in this
   * list, or -1 if this list does not contain the element.
//@SuppressWarnings({"unchecked"})
public int lastIndexOf(Object object) {
    int i = 0;
    int last = -1;
    for(Node<E> node=this.head.next; node!=null; node=node.next) {
      if (node.item.equals((E) object)) {
        last = i;
      i++;
    return(last);
produces the warning
C:\Java\home\src\linkedlist\LinkedList.java:313: warning: [unchecked] unchecked cast
found   : java.lang.Object
required: E
      if (node.item.equals((E) object)) {
                               ^... remembering that List specifies +public int lastIndexOf(Object object);+ as taking a raw Object, not E element, as I would have expected.
Thanx all. Keith.
PS: Crossposted from the tail of http://forum.java.sun.com/thread.jspa?messageID=10225418&#10225418
which nobody has answered, I presume because the thread is marked as "answered".

I'm not sure you understood or if I made myself clear. Or perhaps I'm missing a vital detail in your implementation.
I'm talking about the cast to E in this line:if (node.item.equals((E) object)) {Object.equals() takes a parameter of type Object. So the cast to E is superfluous. That cast is what's causing the warning. You remove the cast => no more warning => you can remove the SuppressWarnings annotation.
Unless your E's have an overloaded equals() that takes an argument of type E. In that case you'll have to live with it.

I'm gonna try this just ONE MORE TIME then.... I'm done with trying to figure it out.....

Listen staff, anyone, Moses, Jesus, Muhammad, Buddha, Zeus, Batman etc. I'm posting about this once again in hopes that someone ELSE will come along with some sort of help.
There's got to be some sort of explanation for this text shifting thing..... it's actually STOPPING me dead in my tracks trying to get ANY work done. So here I am groveling at the feet of the masters....
So.... as simple as I can show it (again).... screen one JUST a rectangle and some simple text lined up on the bottom of it... And screen two... the resulting text shift in 'Preview' mode.
And.... for the life of me I don't know why, but here's the Muse file... WAIT! where and how do I 'attach file' ? I see no access to that... oh well, how would that simple Muse file help anyway?
Thanks for any bread crumbs you can throw my way....
Cliff
oh yeah....... yes I have the latest update... as of today.

Gentlemen! You made my evening.....
As to the font question. Yes, I can find fonts that it will work as expected—and this is the only work around. But of course not being able to use a desired font and then hunting for, and having to use an alternative is not a way I, nor you, would want to go...correct?
But..... I'm now in hopes that this will be addressed and corrected sometime in the near future..... why?
BECAUSE I FREAKIN' LOVE THIS PROGRAM.... and really wish to use it exclusively for website design.
Thanks again for the replies.....
Goodnight
Cliff

One more fb question......

If I deleted my messages from my blackberry with someone on facebook does it delete the message from their
messages as well? I know this sounds like a stupid question but I just don't know the answer and need to....

I'm not sure you understood or if I made myself clear. Or perhaps I'm missing a vital detail in your implementation.
I'm talking about the cast to E in this line:if (node.item.equals((E) object)) {Object.equals() takes a parameter of type Object. So the cast to E is superfluous. That cast is what's causing the warning. You remove the cast => no more warning => you can remove the SuppressWarnings annotation.
Unless your E's have an overloaded equals() that takes an argument of type E. In that case you'll have to live with it.

I just had more ram installed in my 2009 mac mini and now there is no audio at all.

Hi all,
I have a late 2009 Mac Mini which I update to mavericks. This was not a great idea. The performance has been aweful since upgrading. I finally looked into adding RAM. I was told by the Genius at my local store to buy RAM on line and bring it back to the store for install. I had the Ram installed today and I am satisfied that things function much faster now.
The problem now is that the computer does not make any noise. I have speakers plugged into the headphone jack but no noise comes out. When the system boots up, there are no beeps or tones audible. The speakers were all working earlier today when I unplugged everything to take the mini to the store. I also plugged the speakers jack into my phone and they work. I was able to connect a bluetooth speaker and play music through it.
I have tried to reset the PRAM but I"m not sure if I was successful. The instructions I have read for PRAM reset say hold keys until second chime is heard. I heard no chimes at all.
I am a novice when it comes to computers but I am good at following detailed instructions.
Any help would be graetly appreciated!

Yes, this was an Apple retail location.
I made an appiontment thinking that they would sell and install the RAM. When I got there, the genius looked up the specs for my mini and said they did not sell what I needed. He explained that the mini was older and out-dated. He looked up the specs on what RAM i needed and suggested that I purchase it elsewhere and bring it back for them to install. He suggested that I purchase a new computer but I couldn't justify spending $600 or more. I am a very light user and would only be wasting money on a newer set up.
It was when I returned that I was informed (by a different tech) that Apple would not be responsible for any damage that might occur during the replacement.
I decided to proceed anyway thinking that an apple tech was less likely to do damage than I was.
After taking it in the back and swapping the chips, he brought it out, plugged it in and proceeded to open a bunch of Ram hogging apps, graphing software, and internet sites. I was happy to see that the performance was greatly improved and the spinning ball was not dominating the system.
After I hooked it back up at home and tried to play some music, I realized that there was no sound.

JUST ONE MORE RAM QUESTION

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