Just purchased MBP (frm Apple) TrackPad much too sensitive! Any way to adjust?
Any way to adjust track pad sensitivity?
By too sensitive I mean:
Trackpad seems to take on a life of it's own particularly when deleting:
just hovering the cursor over the delete icon results in activating delete.
That's just one example - but the most dramatic and easiest to explain.
More if you need 'em.
Regards,
Bob
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I just purchased MBP and it is my first Apple computer. How concerned should I be about virus software and what do you recommend for security software?
1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Gatekeeper has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
4. Beyond XProtect and Gatekeeper, there’s no benefit, in most cases, from any other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. All known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
5. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was never a good idea, and Java's developers have had a lot of trouble implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style "virus" affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful. Fortunately, Java on the Web is mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers. In Safari, this is done by unchecking the box marked Enable Java in the Security tab of the preferences dialog.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a specific task, enable Java only when needed for the task and disable it immediately when done. Close all other browser windows and tabs, and don't visit any other sites while Java is active. Never enable Java on a public web page that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, password-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be practically as safe from malware as you can be.
6. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
7. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
8. The greatest harm done by anti-virus software, in my opinion, is in its effect on human behavior. It does little or nothing to protect people from emerging threats, but they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default. -
I have just purchased a new apple cordless keyboard. The numeric line of keys along the top are not functioning as they should. For example I am unable to get a question mark or a forward slash. I have tried holding down both shift and alt keys.
Thanks for prompt response - I tried what you suggested but I'm afraid it has not helped. It seems as though the line of number keys along the top aren't actually doing what is printed on them. Some are OK, but the further towards the right hand side of the keyboard you go, the less predicatable it becomes. So whilst the second key from the left gives me 1 and ! when holding the shift key, by the time I get to the 6 when I press and hold shift I get ^ rather than & symbol which is what is actually printed on the key. The & symbol is actually on the next key along - and when I hit the key with 8 I get * rather than the ( which is printed on they key but actually located on the next key along. Things get even more muddled by the time I am over on the right hand side as rather than a question mark (I have had to type the word as I cannot find the symbol anywhere!) I get this _ and the other symbol marked on the key is a comma, but I get - instead. It is going to drive me mad if every time I want to type something it is a guessing game....! What do you suggest - question mark
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HT201471 Why did I get a 2011 model ipad when I just purchased it from apple?
Why did I get a 2011 model ipad when I just purchased it from apple?
If you ordered an "iPad 2" (as shown in your profile), that model was created in 2011. The current model is called "iPad with Retina Display" (or "iPad 4" colloquially).
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Mac OS X
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I have just purchased an ipad2 do I need to download any antivirus or spyware.
I have just purchased an ipad2 do I need to download any antivirus and spyware.
No. I'll second the Jolly Giant.
Allan -
I have an ipod 5 and im changing my apple id. Is there any way to save all of my music and contacts?
i have an ipod 5 and im changing my apple id. Is there any way to save all of my music and contacts?
Why are you changing your ID?
iTunes/app purchases are locked to the account that purchased them. For some actions like updating apps you have to sign into the account that purchased them. Just changing the ID does not not delete any media from the iPod.
When you delete the iCloud account for the iPod should should be offered the option to leave contacts on the iPod. See:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3418775?start=15&tstart=0 -
My family shares one apple id. Is there any way to make an apple id for each member of my family and have it all connected to the same credit card and have the same previous downloads open to download by signing in to each members personal apple id?
Hi cindy,
If you all have individual Apple IDs, then you would be able to dowload music from a shared iTunes library on a computer, but you would not be able to sign on each individual ID on an iOS device in order to download music purchased under the original Apple ID without a 90-day waiting period between sign-ons.
Here's what I mean:
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However, if all of the music purchased by that origjnal Apple ID is in an iTunes library on a shared computer, then you can hook up the device and selectively sync any music in that library to the device. You can also sign on any of the Apple IDs to that shared iTunes library and purchase music to be added to the library.
You would need to authorize the computer for each of the new Apple IDs.
Each of the Apple IDs would also be able to download that music purchased either by syncing to the iTunes library on the computer or by downloading it OTA on the device.
So, each Apple ID can download music, movies, etc. purchased with that Apple ID OTA to the device. Also each Apple ID can sync any music, movies, etc. that are in the iTunes library on the computer regardless of who purchased them.
The only other thing you would need to remember is that if an App needed to be updated, then the original Apple ID that was used to purchase that App would come up, and the password that goes with that Apple ID would be required to do the update.
Hope that helps,
GB -
<blockquote>Locking duplicate thread.<br>
Please continue here: [[/questions/856718]]</blockquote>
I had 41 tabs open in about six groups over the last year and a half and I just close them and exited Firefox. Is there any way to get them back?
Also, is there any way to save a group or an open session and then restore it later?History menu, if it was destroyed in the last session
then use "Restore Previous session:" and then restore all windows also from the history menu.
If done in this session try the restore all windows under the history menu. -
Hey guys, i need HELP !!!My iphone 6 just gave stolen .... But i hope that can take all the photo back... Total is almost 3000 pc ... But my icloud storage just 5gb only ... If there have any ways to let me get back those photo ? Those photo really mean a lot to me .... Have alot of memory with family ... It's very meaningful !!! Please kindly help me !!! Thanks
Please please help me, if you know how.
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Our macs were set up with an incorrect Apple ID. Is there any way to change the Apple ID associated with these macs? This causes increased frustration during the updating process. After maverick we cannot edit the id being used anymore.
If you can prove ownership to the Macs, call Apple Care and request the Account Security Team.
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I have just purchased a MacBook Pro. My wife's MacBook Pro is less than a year old. When I start up my new computer, it thinks I am my wife and gives me the option of logging on as my wife or as a guest user. How do I correct this misidentification? Thanks. [email protected]
This sounds like you may have migrated in Setup Assistant from her MBP?
EDIT: (Or whatever you migrated from the PC had her account data)
I also think you mean your login ID, not the Superuser, unless you've enabled root. In that case it would say "root"
Let's try it easy first. Create a new account and make it an Admin. Name it your name or whatever. This will be your account. Next login as your wife and move ehatever Documents you want from that account into /Users/Shared.
Now log back into your own account and drag the items from the Shared folder into your Documents folder.
If this works and you no longer need your wife's account on the Mac you can delete it in System Preferences > Users&Groups. -
I have an iPad 4 generation 4G and just purchased my first iPhone an Apple 5s. I need help synching the two. I have never needed to use the 4G Verizon option so Versizon tech said they can't do it and Apple needs to. But I no longer have Applecare and it doesn't yet recogniz my Applecare with my new phone (new yesterday). Anyone know the steps so I can sync the two and sync the Clouds then? Thanks
You cannot sync the two devices together. You can keep the two devices in sync by using iCloud and some of the available settings on both devices. Go to Settings>iCloud and you can turn on Reminders , Calendars, Notes, Safari Bookmarks, Contacts, Photo Stream, Mail, Keychain, etc.
You can go to Settings>iTunes and App Store>Automatic Downloads and turn on apps, songs, books and updates to keep all of those items in sync as well.
But why don't you explain exactly what you mean by syncing the two devices? What do you hope to accomplish? -
Photoshop saves JPEG images much too dark--any ideas?
Hi there, I'm having an issue with my Photoshop applications and I was hoping someone could give me a little insight/help in fixing the problem.
When working with a file in Photoshop (I am an artist, so I usually create my files from scratch rather than loading them from a camera), I can get the colors to appear as they should in the workspace. When I finish artwork, I make sure the colors are exactly as I want them, then save it as a JPEG file. However, if I open this JPEG file in any application--browsers, photo viewing programs--it is extremely dark and saturated. If I open the JPEG in Photoshop, though, it looks fine. This issue seems to have occurred spontaneously 3-4 months ago. I don't recall changing or deleting any of my monitor or video card preferences, or my color profiles. I was working with Photoshop Elements 4.0 at the time, and it suddenly started happening.
Now, I have found a sort of work-around for it. If I screencap my workspace with the artwork open in it, then I can open up that screencap in Photoshop. The colors are much TOO bright and washed out when I do this, but if I crop the image so it's just the artwork and save it, then it displays in browsers and viewing programs more or less as it should, i.e. how I see it in Photoshop. However, if I open that JPEG in Photoshop, it will display much brighter than the original artwork.
It's not a desperate issue since I have this weird work-around, but I'm currently trying to save images for printing--which means they need to be very large, and I'm not keen on zooming to 100% and screen-capping the art piece by piece, then stitching it all together before saving it. I'd really like to get this issue resolved. I thought it might have to do with the fact that I was using outdated software (PSE 4.0), but I've just recently upgraded to CS5 Extended and the same issue prevails.
If it's any help, I'm working on an HP EliteBook 8740w, with Windows 7 and an NVIDIA Quadro video card.
Here are the things I've tried, which haven't worked:
Deleting Photoshop preferences/settings (in both PSE 4.0 and CS5)
Uninstalling and re-installing both programs
Re-calibrating my monitor
Changing color settings in Photoshop (files still end up dark regardless)
Disabling OpenGL Drawing
Switching between file types when saving
I am at my wit's end! I am mostly concerned that my clients and professors aren't going to see my work as it is intended to look, when they view it online. The erratic behavior of too-dark or too-light, and my pictures seemingly never displaying correctly on any browser or in any program, has me a little paranoid about my online portfolio, haha. I'm applying for an art scholarship in a month, and if none of my work will save correctly (much less print correctly!) then it will be a sad day indeed!
As I said before, this problem seems to have popped up out of nowhere. My artwork from before the whole saving-too-dark issue began still displays perfectly in most programs, but the rest is totally hit-and-miss. If any of you have fixes or suggestions (even suggestions on adjusting Photoshop so that my images display more consistently in browsers and other programs) I would be extremely grateful.
Thanks so much for your time,
-JennaThough you have solved your problem, be aware, that different applications have different ways to interpret color profiles that can be set in different ways.
Example:
In Firefox, you can either set a color profile or not -- AFAIK, it only works with v2 ICC profiles (vs. v4, v3 seems to have not been released).
From that point, you can set perceptual, absolute, colormetric, or one other...(forget)... but usually you just set that to perceptual for monitor work as I understand it. Then a 3rd FF setting (all in its registry, of course, though occasionally there are extensions that let you manage the three settings. They correspond to values (accessible through 'about:config' in FF's address window), all under the prefix:
"gfx.color_management."
"display_profile" - text string of file containing a v2 ICC profile, usually in "C:\Windows\System32\Spool\drivers\color\" (at least on Win7) -- extention ".icm"
"mode" -- when to turn it on (2=for pics that have profiles set, another is for always (1?)), maybe 0=off?
"rendering_intent" - this corresponds to perceptual, abs, colormetric, types, I think 0=perceptual (default)
for FF, if you google one of those values, you'll find more info on some mozillian-type site... "prefix<keyname>" (e.g. - gfx.color_management.display_profile ).
Other progs may have their own or if we are lucky would use the system profile & color management system (assuming it is any good).
Getting an accurate monitor profile and keeping it updated as your monitor 'decays' (i.e. color is usually best when new, then they decay, w/useful life at max gamut ~ 18 months (in my experience), after that, you can still retune to the same white point, but with a loss of gamut due to the phosphors decaying at different rates).
It's best to use some sort of external calibration HW... -- as an external device looking at your monitor through it's various colors is the only way to get a 'digitally objective' measurement. That said, I always have concerns about the stability of the measuring device over time. Does it have components that that could cause non-linear measurement? Am guessing not as likely, as it isn't emitting anything so less wear & tear, but I wouldn't assume it's 100% accurate over time either (but certainly is better than one's own eye which can gradually adjust to just about anything). I had a viewsonic when I first got my current color device (a Spyder3), and it had gone from an original white point of 6500K down to 5700K -- and I had not noticed the difference (over 18-20 months)...
I could bring it back in range, but had lost gamut, and was a bit below the sRGB (consumer grade) standard (which is some fractional
value of the Adobe Photoshop or NTSC standards, which are similar in the size of their ranges, but slightly offset from each other).
The result of all this -- I never really know how my images will look on other monitors, but I try to tag them w/my current monitor profile, hoping that if they care about color, they'll have some SW on their end that can make sense of it...but given my own experience in how SW on the same system handles color differently, I wouldn't say they were 'high hopes'... ;-) -
My power just went out for a few seconds- is there any way to restore the document I was working on?
My power just went out for a few seconds. Is there any way to restore my document? I had already had 2 hrs worth of work for an interview tomorrow and do not have time to start from scratch?
UPS
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Compatible-1500VA-Tower/dp/B00429N 19W/
Mac OS X Forum
https://discussions.apple.com/community/mac_os?view=discussions
Recovery Mode
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4718
TimeMachine 101
https://support.apple.com/kb/HT1427
http://www.apple.com/support/timemachine
General purpose Mac troubleshooting guide:
Mac OS X: Starting up in Safe Mode - http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107393
What is Safe Boot, Safe Mode? (Mac OS X) - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1564
Isolating issues in Mac OS X
Creating a temporary user to isolate user-specific problems:
Isolating an issue by using another user account
Identifying resource hogs and other tips:
Using Activity Monitor to read System Memory and determine how much RAM is being used
Starting the computer in "safe mode":
Mac OS X: What is Safe Boot, Safe Mode?
To identify potential hardware problems:
Apple Hardware Test
General Mac maintenance:
Tips to keep your Mac in top form
You should have TimeMachine saving your work, YOU need to be doing Save As somewhere else as you work, you don't say what application and whether you have Lion 10.7 or later (10.8.4)
Can't say enough for the importance of using a UPS. Get one and plug your modem, router, computer into one and don't worry about data loss and lost modem or corruption or the effects to electronic devices.
This forum deals with a desktop/tower 65lb Mac Pro
http://www.apple.com/support/macpro
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