K7N2 boards and higher FSB

Im wanting to know with any K7N2 board what is the highest FSB people can reach?
Im wanting to test my 2100+ but im looking for a bit of info first. This is the best CPU i have ever used and dont really want to fry this one. I know 133 (266) to 200 (400) is a big increase already but i feel it can do more :D

Well I Tested my little ole 2100+ a bit ago 205 FSB (410) is as far as i could get without it messing up other things. When i set it to 210 FSB it booted and worked just fine but only showed like 1050MHz it was going back to a 5 multi even when it is unlocked and set to 11 or 10.5 and the Vcore went back to stock voltage.
I guess thats not bad for a 133FSB CPU an increase of 72FSB (144MHz) But i guess ill just leave it be at 200 UNLESS somehow i run into a KT6 Delta board :D
P.S.
Dont ask me how it happened but when i was testing, turning computer on and off by sure protector i threw the breaker to my room and i was in pitch dark, I got Skeered 8o

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[nForce] K7N2 board and Soundblaster PCI 128 soundcard

I am running w2k with all uptodate service packs. I have an MSI K7N2 motherboard with uptodate drivers (downloaded today!) and having problems with a Creative PCI 128 soundcard. The gameport controller will not work as in Device Manager it says it can't find enough resources. I have swapped PCI slots, removed all other PCI devices and tried to change the resource configuration in Device Manger but was unsuccessful. I can't see any other devices conflicting with the soundcard and nothing shows in System Information as using the same resource as the soundcard. Anyone any ideas?
Thanks
Tony

Sorry for not giving good news, but your'e wellcome !

K7n2 delta2 platinum - changed FSB and can't boot or clear CMOS

Hi all,
specs first:
KnN2 Delta2 Platinum board
Athalon Barton 2800 XP
2 sticks of 256 pc 3200 ram and one stick of 512 pc3200
Last night I went into the bios of my new board, and unthinkingly set to CELL settings to manual and jacked up the FSB way up. Shouldn't have been working on my computer after a 12 hour shift. :( Anyway, it didn't boot when I reset. I tried clearing my CMOS and have unplugged the power, taken out the battery and the whole shabang in the CMOS clearing faq, but its still not giving me any beep codes or anything at all. I suspect my CMOS isin't clearing, however I'm wondering if its possible I've fried my new barton 2800 XP, my board, my ram, or all of the above. :( :(. I've read a ton of other delta boards having a safe mode jumper, j10, which will reset the fsb setting to 100 mhz, but can't find it anywhere for the delta2 platinum.
It was booting and getting into my OS before this, can anyone help?
Thanks in advance.

Quote
Originally posted by axeluktoo
Hi,
Muncher23: Hmm, I've seen this before only recently - no solution - as yet, that I know of. You could try putting a lower FSB CPU in the mobo and then clear the CMOS - it might default to the CPU's lower FSB setting. Might work, then again may not.
Yes, this worked, however it was an acident. To test my chip I threw in my 1800 xp chip, cleared the CMOS again (which apparently was working fine) and suddenly it started posting beep codes. I assumed that meant I had burned my 2800 and returned it to the place of purchase. They threw it on a board and said it was posting fine, but I got my money back anyway. Going to go pick up another 2800 this weekend probably.
Anyway, I havn't actually tried the insert method. Oh, and yea, I jacked the FSB up to 300 or so... I think I'm somewhat confused, as I've got a 333 chip in a 2800 so I think I've mistaken something fundamental here.
Quote
I suspect my CMOS isin't clearing
Actually, it probably is clearing. On earlier K7N2, when the CMOS is cleared everything is set to default EXCEPT the FSB setting, that's why it's usually necessary when the FSB has been pushed too high by the user, to use the FSB Jumper (SAFE/USER) to reset the FSB to default.
I fail to see the wisdom of removing this jumper from later boards!
You should also try substituting your CPU with another - just to make sure it isn't the CPU that's at fault.
Sorry I wasn't of more help.
Axel [/quote]

Help! data manipulation for high speed streaming to disk from multiple boards and multiple channels

I am using Labview 7.1 and have been trying to capture data from 12 channels simutaneously sampled at 2MS/s each and streaming to disk for up to a minute or more. The hardware I am using is 2 x PXI 6133 S series boards with a MXI4 link to a Pentium D 2.8 Ghz machine with 2Gb ram. I have 2 sata drives set up in a raid 0 configuration which should give me hard disk write speed faster or equal to the MXI-4 transfer speed.
I have first started off by using the example code "multi device sync - analog input- cont acquisition" which has enabled me to sync the two boards and sample at the required speed.
To stream the data to disk, I have first merged the data from each board together to save it to one file. I have tried using the storage vi's but I end up with a Daqmx read error (trying to read data that is no longer available). I have played around with the read data size to the point that I either get a insufficient memory error, or I get the "trying to read data that is no longer available" error. I have also tried using the file IO blocks with some success and have found that I have been able to stream to disk only if I configure the daqmx read block to output the data in "raw 1D I16" format and plugging it into the file-write block. In doing this, I have noticed that using multiple channels on one daqmx read task, I will get all the channels in one 1D array rather than a 2D array organized by channels. This makes it messy to read at the end of this, and I also don't want to write another vi to separate the channels, due to the high chance of getting the data mixed or messed up if I happen to change the number of channels on a board
Is there a cleaner way of streaming this data to disk and keeping the channel data separated from each other?, and/or is there a better way to capture and handle the data I need?
I have attached the vi which I have got to consistantly work streaming to disk using the raw 1D I16 format.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
Attachments:
multidevicesync_analoginput_streamtodisk.vi ‏197 KB

Hi,
i can suggest following
Refer to an example VI called as "High speed data logger.VI" in conjunction with "High Speed data logger reader.vi" in Labview examples. Alhrough the logger might be in Tradiditional Daq format, it can be quite easily converted to Daq Mx format to store data in Binary (I32 format) . I have used this for many of my applications and i have found that the data retrieved does not have any "messups".
Why not keep a seperate file for each card? This way, you do not have to load your application with extra process. You only have to acquire and save. After saving in Binbary format, you can retrive it offline, convert it to ascii format and merge the data files of various cards to get one consolidated ascii data file.
hope this helps
Regards
Dev

I have a SC-2042-RTD Board and the temperature reading I get are approxiximately 7 degrees high. Every thing is connected as specified in the manual. We are using a 3 wire RTD configuratuion.

I have a SC-2042-RTD Board and the temperature readings I get are approxiximately 7 degrees high. Every thing is connected as specified in the manual. We are using a 3 wire RTD configuratuion. The current excitation is set at 1mA but is actually 1.0035 mA from the board. The Daq card I am using is a DaqCard-A
I16XE-50.

Two quick things to check are: make sure the sensor does not exceed a max resistance of 8.5k ohms and do not leave any current excitation sources unloaded.
Also, check out chapter five of the SC-2042 user manaul (attached) about how to calibrate the device. This may help get rid of the bad readings.
Brian
Attachments:
SC-2042.pdf ‏166 KB

K7N2 Delta - cant get FSB over 200 ???

..Hi all...
I've bought this motherboard..and with AMD Mobile 2500+ and many different types of 400 DDR memory i cant get FSB over 200 ...
it forks fine on 200 ...but when i go up 202 and higher motherboard reports error that CPU is damaged or not installed properly.
Can this motherborad work over 200 (since this is good OC motherboard) ..or should i forget this.....
Im very sorry that i bought this MB...since for that money i could get much better one...

Quote
OK..first i needed to know that this motherboard is capable of forkin FSB over 200
Yes it is, most seem to top out around 218 to 225FSB
Quote
AMD MOBILE 2500+ (2500MHz= FSB200 X12.5 )
You need to drop the multiplier a little if you ever want to see anything over 200FSB
Quote
Apacer DDR RAM 256 MB PC 3200, CL3 MOS
Transcedent 256 MB 3200 CL 2.5
Board is very picky on ram, your lucky that it works without problems to start with with mixed ram.
On Nforce 2 boards you gain a lot more performance running ram and FSB at 1:1 ratio. And with your ram i would keep it at 200FSB and not higher. If you really want to go over 200FSB and still run 1:1 then you will need new ram.
My overall suggestion is leave the 200X12.5 and run your ram 1:1

K7n2-v and Fx5200 ultra

Here's my system spec's.
The pc with the problems: Mobo msi k7n2-v, 1 gig kingston pc2100 ram, asylum fx 5200 ultra, xp 2600+, Antec 300 watt power supply windows xp.
Now, i had a ati rage fury pro in my working pc. Which i upgraded to the Fx5200 everything worked fine. When i moved the Fx5200 to the new pc, i had display problems. Dots on the screen at boot and at post bars going from the top to the bottom of the screen when windows started i had bars across the screen, the whole system was unstable. When i took the Fx5200 out and put the rage fury in everything was fine.
I have the latest bios, the board is jumpered correctly. And i know the cards are ok because i swaped the cards between systems.
At first i thought i had a problem with the card and the FSB. But now i'm thinking its a power supply problem.
Both systems are alike other then the cards and the cpu, that the xp2600+ takes far more power then my athlon and the fx5200 doesnt have enough power to work correctly.
I guess what i'm wordering is, am i right? Because i cann't think what else it could be.
Working pc: Mobo abit kt7a, 512 megs pc133 ram, athlon 1 gig, Antec 300 watt power supply, windows 98.

I found the irq it's not sharing..
But i didnt want to hear that about the ram, LOL.
Whats the worst that can happen at running it like that?
You see what i did was i bought a MSI KM2M-L combo board, then i found out the board didnt support the cpu i ordered. So i did some looking around and seen the K7n2 did and the part numbers for the ram was the same so i was hoping i could use it as i couldn't send the chip or ram back.
Oh lord, how much cash am i going to have to throw at this thing.

Poor battery life and high temperatures on MacBook Pro Retina 15"

I'm having never-ending problems with poor battery life and high temperatures on a MacBook Pro Retina 15"
I took it in for service and they told me it needed a new logic board and replaced it. When I asked why they were vague about the reasons, they said "it just needed one, it failed some test". I now have the computer back and it runs the same way it always did. I bought this laptop because it was supposedly capable of high end video editing in 1080P (or so Apple's website claims) and also photo editing.
"The processor, graphics, all-flash architecture, memory, and display in the 15-inch MacBook Pro give you unprecedented mobile video editing capabilities. Super-responsive flash storage delivers up to nine streams of 1080p ProRes (HQ) content for multicam editing in Final Cut Pro X,3 while the latest quad-core processors on the 15-inch MacBook Pro decode multiple streams of video, and a powerful GPU renders millions of pixels onto the screen. With flash storage that offers up to four times the performance of a traditional hard drive,1 you can even edit four streams of uncompressed 8-bit 1080p HD video, right from the internal storage on your 15-inch MacBook Pro with Retina display.4"
However, when I'm just browsing the web and emailing it runs quite warm and battery life is quite poor. Sometimes doing those same activities I would say it gets so warm it's almost uncomfortable to have on your lap and the fans are running fast enough to become noticably noisy. I'm also driving only one screen at and a time and I heard that the MacBook Pro can supposedly do three screens.
If actually try to do something like video editing with final cut pro the laptop gets really hot, the fans are on full blast and battery life drops to only an hour or two. I think when I rendered just a 3 or 4 minute clip once I got less than hour of battery life. I will have to time again.
Anyway most people (including the sales guys) are telling me no way this is not normal. When I play with demos in the store browsing the web they are not getting warm or hot to the touch. My friend's 2013 MacBook Air is also NOT getting warm to the touch doing the same activities.
I installed iStat Pro so I could check the temperature and fan speeds. I'm seeing temperatures of 70+ on the GPU, 85+ on the GPU diode and 65+ on the CPU heatsink along with elvated fan speeds above 5K which becomes noticeably noisy. I understand that might be normal for the most processor intensive tasks but it really doesn't seem right for just light web browsing and e-mailing. (I also may have viber and skype open but that shouldn't matter). CPU usage is usually running between 2-10% as this is all happening to.
Furthermore, straight from the specs:
Intel HD Graphics 4000
NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M with 1GB of GDDR5 memory and automatic graphics switching
I am assume "GPU" and "GPU diode" are temp measurements on the discrenete NVIDIA video card, especially since MacBook Airs from the same and newer generatio do not have this reading. Since Apple Claims the graphics "automatically switches" it seems all the harder to believe the GPU is reaching 85+ when in theory it shouldn't even be activated. I mean, shouldn't the INtel HD Graphics 4000 be capable of simple web browsing and e-mailing? Especially with only one screen activated (be it it the internal or an external)?
What should I do here? When I asked the repair guys "OK well what is the normal operating temp range for the various sensors" they said "Sorry Apple doesn't provide that info".

Yes I have.
Just web browsing and basically doing nothing I'm hear a lot of aduible fans, I'm getting 85C+ on GPU diode, 65+ on cpu heatsink. I since installed anohter program that shows me not just the CPU heatsink but the cores and the cores are at 90C+.
Seems like a lot of heat for doing nothing. Not only that but I have these problems with no external monitor while on battery power too.
I don't know what to do. They already replaced the logic board. Others seem to get advertised battery life out of Apple products and not have products that get **** near hot enough to burn you while just web browsing or watching a movie let alone advertised tasks like Photoshop and Final Cut Pro.

Macbook Pro and high-pitch sound, please help!

Hello,
     I have a Macbook Pro 13 inch that is almost brand new. I just got it 3 months ago for my birthday. About a month or two with my new computer I started hearing a high-pitch sound comming from the computer. The sound only lasts about 3-6 seconds and it goes of at random times. It might make the noise 5 times in one day but then it might go away for 3 days, totally random. The sound comes if the computer is sitting there or is being used. After about 3 months of this going off I deceided to bring it to the Apple store in New Haven, CT. Does anyone have the same problem?
     After bringing my computer in and telling them the problem, they tested in for about 30 minutes. Everything was fine. No fan problem or hardrive problem. I brought the computer back home and within 3 days the sound is back. I drove to the Apple store again told them my problem,again, and they did they same test with no results. Brought it back home, noise is still there. This time im starting to get angry, they arent offering any solution. I bring it back and they take it for about 48 hours and do a extensive check. Nothing was found. I bring it home again and the noise is still there. My father and I went to Apple pretty angry and told them that we appreciate the time they take but something really needs to be done. They have sent it out for 3-5 days and we are awating a phone call to see whats wrong.
     I am hoping that they find something or if they dont can they can replace my computer? I am not spending hours of my own time and gas money going back and forth to Apple for no reason..the Genius bar guys have been no help telling us basically that we are lying and that there is nothing wrong when clearly there is. What can I do? Has anyone had this same noise come from their computer? I really appreciat everyone that decideds to throw some input in. Thank you so much.
Notes:
I have the latest software
Macbook Pro 13'
No physical damage done
Alex Cartier

Make a recording of the sound so the next time you take it in you can let them hear it. It might be best to do a video of the unit so the sound is combined with pictures/video of the computer so they know the sound is coming from it.
IMHO the guys at the B-bars are just about useless for this type of thing. If it isn't a bad drive, HDD or DVD, and the system seems to run OK (actually even if it doesn't run OK but runs at all) they will say "Everything looks OK". Or if the thing is dead they can help. That help will be "You need a new HDD" "You need a new DVD drive" "You need a new Logic board" and that's about it.

Having logic board and inverter replaced - will post results.

My MBP is afflicted with the CPU whine and the LCD whine, not to mention the "Moo". I solved the Airport not connecting automatically issue on my own.
Talked to Apple about the whines, they wanted me to take it to the local guys, which I was happy to do. I dropped it off this morning, going to pick it up after work.
They are ordering me a replacement logic board, and the inverter (at my request). I will keep my MBP until they come in and then they will swap the new parts in.
I'm guessing it won't be a short wait for the parts, but I will follow up in this thread detailing further results and noise levels.
Personally, I am very impressed with the local service response. They agreed to get the inverter at my request even after opening it up and finding the noise to all eb coming from the logic board.
I know it ***** to wait... but there is more to come. Any questions about my specific machine, etc; post and I will answer.

BrenM - Good luck with your MBP! I hope the replacement logic board and inverter resolve the issues.
As for me, my MBP has been at an Apple Authorized Service Provider in Oakville, Ontario for about a week and a half. They first ordered a replacement logic board, which came from California ... took 2 or 3 days. Unfortunately the replacement logic board did not resolve the high-pitched "whine" issue. The tech told me it is quieter, but not gone .... So on Monday he advised me that they are replacing the inverter, which is on order. They expect to receive it on Wednesday. To be honest, I don't think the inverter will address the high-pitched "whine", as I've been following this issue on here very closely. But it probably will resolve the buzz from the screen when adjusting the brightness, so that's good.
The ASP that I took my MBP to in Oakville has been great. They're really on the ball with it and I know they are doing the best they can. But what it really comes down to is ... if Apple doesn't have an issue to this high-pitched "whine", there's not much the ASP can do. I appreciate them replacing the logic board and inverter, but it's really Apple that needs to get their act in gear and resolve this once and for all. The MBP's have been out for what ... 5-6 weeks now? This has been a hot topic ever since people starting receiving their MBP's, and Apple needs to face the fact that people are not going to let this go until a solution is provided.
The ASP told me that if after replacing the inverter it is still not resolved, I'll need to put up with it until Apple resolves the issue, as there's nothing else they can do. I asked him - what if it takes Apple 2-3 months to resolve the issue? He said I can bring it right back in to have it fixed. So that's good.
The other thing I was considering is when I get my MBP back, to contact Customer Relations and put up a fuss to receive a replacement. But ... then the replacement will probably have the high-pitched "whine". I don't know what to do at this point. It sort of bothers me that my $3000 MBP is no longer pristine, as it has been serviced and received replacement parts ... what do you guys think? Should i be firm with customer relations and (politely) demand a repacement?

Compatibility between MSI i7 boards and Corsair DDR3 RAM kits?

Similar issues from other posters: Thread 1, Thread 2
Are there any known compatibility issues between MSI's Intel i7 boards and Corsair's 1600 DDR3 triple-channel kits?
My brother's machine (which has been discussed here before last time I tried to fix it) is still having trouble, and also uses the same type of RAM as the two threads above. The symptoms are:
1) Occasional lockups, followed by a reboot
2) Inability to POST: the machine will try numerous times, rebooting each time (as in threads 1 and 2), followed (eventually) by the POST saying "the previous overclocking has failed and the BIOS is reset to default settings" - as in thread 1. The machine will then (normally) boot. Reducing the RAM speed increases the chance of a successful boot, but the settings don't stick (presumably they are wiped when the BIOS is reset to the default settings). Cold boots (after the machine has been switched off overnight) tend to be the most likely to fail.
Any ideas what could be causing this, if not an incompatibility with the RAM (in 3-channel mode)? Dropping down to one stick stabilises the system, but at the expense of dropping to a mere 2GB of RAM.

Quote from: HU16E on 06-September-09, 15:10:01
Out of seven MSI X58 boards, none had a problem with Corsair sticks. With the 1600's running at 1066, they should only require default (1.50v) auto voltage. They should also work using settings of 1N 9 9 9 24 without issue. As the CPU IMC only natively supports 800/1066, your particular CPU may have a limitation of working any higher. But, something is not right within the system if it will not run the RAM at 1066. To rule out a bad stick, test with just one in the black A0 slot, & swap it out & test the other two individually. As far as DRAM voltage, if all the sticks check out ok, try raising it to 1.55V. Keep the forum updated on your progress.
Added: Make sure 'Spread Spectrum' is disabled in bios Cell Menu, as well as 'Extreme Memory Profile' if your bios has it listed.
Are they 2GB sticks? (All the threads in question use the 2GB sticks - one 3×, and one 6×)
Back around the time I tried the BIOS flash as the solution, I Memtest86'd each of the sticks individually in the MSI-recommended slot for a single-stick configuration, and each tested perfectly. Part of the advice given at the time was to disable XMP and Spread Spectrum; they already were.
Whilst I can't be certain that the RAM is the problem, at least three threads on this board now are using 2GB Corsair 1600 sticks and having strikingly similar symptoms...
I'll try investigating the voltages later today. Thanks!

2x iMac G5: Both Logic Board and Display Problems, Warrenty?

Hello,
Thank you for looking at this topic.
I am Jeroen from The Netherlands and proud owner of several Mac Mini's, iMac's and Macbook's. I have 2times the iMac G5, a beautiful machine, but both not working since 2 months.
I have two times the iMac G5 with iSight, both have logic board and display problems.
The first iMac doenst start at all, black screen, i hear the chime, but nothing happening. After a minute i see one horizantal white stripe but nothing happens.
The second iMac has weird horizantal stripes also, but the computer starts. It gives a finder and questionmark icon. After a while the fans go crazy.
Both these symptons are widely known on the internet. I would like to get this fixed, but prices are crazy. And because this is a common issue I would expect to get this fixed for no costs. I have contacted several Apple resellers but they shown me high prices and bad services. On these forums I've saw people in the USA who get this fixed free of charge.
Does anyone has any advice for me? I'll call apple USA this morning.
Thankyou for ur time.

Welcome to Apple Discussions.
I know of no repair extension authorization which provides for the repair of either computer you describe beyond its original 12 month period of coverage. If either machine is covered by a warranty extension program provided by AppleCare, then the parts, labor or both required to replace the defective components may be offered at no charge to you. Final determination of eligibility is made at the part level by authorized Apple service providers or dealers and by the specific serial number of the machine submitted for service.
Absent a warranty extension, however, it is quite likely that you will have to pay for the repairs is you elect to have them performed.

What is better high fsb or tight memory timmings?

for all the overclock masters out there what do you think is better high fsb or tight memory timmings?

You should really read the sticky posts as they hold the answers.
This one in particular as it relates very closely to youyr setup.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=74799.0
FSB is way more important to OC'ing any modern Athlon. In fact as the memory controller resides within the CPU now unlike in past rigs too tight of timings will certainly have a negative impact on how far you can OC. The reason is that as you increase the FSB your also increasing the RAM clocks. RAM will usually fail an OC before a CPU will. So you really should read that topic and learn more about how these rigs OC now days and what you will need to know to be successful at this.

[AMD] whats better higher htt or higher fsb

Hello to all, I've been playing around with this set up and rather than do all the expermenting myself I thought I'd thow this out there,, What gives you more of a profamance gain.. htt at "2000" with mem. 1/1 or less than 2000htt and mem w/ divider w/ higher fsb. ex: fsb@250 1/1 multi @11 htt @4 = mem ddr500,cpu 2750, htt 2000 or say ex: fsb 275 w/166div, multi @11 htt @3, =mem ddr498, cpu 3025, htt 1650, seems my mem clocks out to about at ddr520, I've had to 258fsb 1/1 and sometimes it will hang in post, to much htt or what. Any ideas Thanks for the time, Henry

Quote from: syar2003 on 14-January-06, 04:54:09
Highest CPU frequency is what matter most .
Yep... that's the cool thing about OC'ing a 64. Ya gotta love on-die memory controllers
For some reason I always get better results @ 1:1 & loose timings on my Neo2 Plat. I never have been able to get dividers to work/OC any better.
Weird.

KT5 6590 board and new Barton 200fsb amd

Does anyone know if MSI will be updating the BIOS on the Kt4 6590 chipset to take the new AMD Barton 0.13 XP3000/XP3200 200FSB Processors.
I have checked the CPU support for my board and at present it says no, but When i look in my Bios I can make the FSB go upto 200 as at present its running at 166.
I am using Ver 1.4 at the mo
Thanks in advance
Daz
?( ?(

The KT400 was not made for 200fsb, it was made for DDR400. So to answer your question, I would have to say no to official supprt. As of this date, the only official support for the 200fsb CPU's would be from the nForce2. No real word yet on the KT400A yet.

K7N2 boards and higher FSB

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