K7N2 Delta Temp Readings Different...

Hey guys.
When in BIOS, and I use PC HEALTH, it shows my CPU Temp in the low 40's c. When I use PC Alert 4 and point to the icon in my system tray, it shows CPU Temp at low 30's c.
Which is right? Why is there a difference?

Ok, it's downloaded and installed.
Tell me, what's too hot for the CPU? I'm just using the stock AMD supplied HSF, but don't overclock anything.
The CPU Temp readings are now at 50c.

Similar Messages

  • Where are the K7N2 Delta temps sensors located?

    Where are the K7N2 Delta temps sensors located?
    Okay I know one reads from the diode... altough the reading still seems to be low compared to other diode readers (like the 8K3A+ which gives you readins in the 50's).
    Where is the other one located?

    MSI Tech... how about it?

  • K7N2 Delta temp, MSI is driving me mad...

    I'd like to know what are they doing, temps readings are crazy...
    with BIOS v5.0 --> CPU temp: 55º C
    with BIOS v5.2 --> CPU temp: 35º C
    with BIOS v5.4 --> CPU temp: 55º C

    Quote
    Originally posted by andovers1
    No,PCAlert does not work properly with the new bios and is supposed to be corrected in the next bios. Try using speedfan it runs the same as your bios. Yes my temps are up 10c with the new bios so my CPU is running 38c idle instead of 28c.
    ENOUGH! X(
    The fact that PCalert does not work with BIOS 5.3/5.4 is totally unsubstantiated. As I said, it's the only prog whose reading did NOT change with the new BIOS, suggesting it somehow bypasses BIOS readings. Speedfan, on the other hand, gives EXACTLY the same readings as BIOS - in other words, this piece of rubbish simply reads the BIOS values, simple as that.
    U state that a future BIOS release will have modified temp readings. If that's true, then for how many BIOS generations will we have to wait till these @$£%#¤! finally get their firmware to work properly?
    Ever since I switched to v5.4, BIOS, Speedfan and MBM5 have shown me an idle temp of OVER 53°C !!!    X(
    I find this hardly plausible, considering that my case & mboard are fitted with:
    - Aero 7+ (copper HSF + radial fan) on FULL power, and yes, I've checked the thermal grease over & over again, it's properly applied. I've done this countless times before.
    - 2 80mm case fans both running at full speed, and in extraction mode, thus drawing hot air out of case. U might tell me that only one fan has to pull air out, whilst the other has to draw air in, but I've tried that: CPU temp then increases by around 3°C! I dunno about U, but I'd rather settle with 53°C which is already way too hot for an idle temp.
    - All internal cables (IDE, power, etc...) in my case are "out of the way" so as to avoid hindering proper airflow and causing hot air build-up.
    Besides, as I said B4, how do U explain that PCalert readings haven't changed despite BIOS update???
    So don't tell me that the new BIOS shows the correct temps - not only does it not make sense, but it would also imply that my CPU temp is over 11°C above the previous value! It was bad enough at its former 42°C (and rocketing beyond 55°C when running UT2003) - especially given YOUR own value (U're at 38°C idle with the NEW BIOS ??!).
    So I dare not imagine that the real CPU temp could actually be above 50°C. Simply irrationnal - considering what I've previously said - and this would drive me MAD. MAD!  
    [ALIGN=center][/ALIGN]
    OK perhaps I'm somewhat overreacting... this temp issue has me baffled...overwrought...exhausted. Need a good rest..  :(

  • Mixing Ram with different CAS latencies in K7n2 Delta-L?

    I have been using 512mb Kingston Value Ram in my computer, pc3200, with CAS latency of 3.0.   I just purchased some Corsair value select 512mb ram pc3200 with CAS latency of 2.5.   I know you are not supposed to mix ram with different speeds (like 400 vs. 333) but does it matter if the CAS latencies are different?  
    I'm running an AMD XP 1800+, K7n2 delta-L, nforce2 motherboard from MSI.  Someone at a computer shop told me they tried mixing Kingston 3.0 CAS with Corsair 2.5 CAS, and said his computer wouldn't even post.  So I'm wondering if this is an isolated problem, or you will always run into this problem if you mix ram with different CAS latencies.
        If anyone has experience with this issue, please share with the board.  Thanks!
    Chris

    The age old question, will the components I bought be compatible ? There are those that have bought identical matching memory that didn't work. In my case, I had an ECS K7S5A that used PC2100 Crucial memory, the sticks neither matched (at one time they did, but one stick died and they sent me the closest thing they had.). Neither of these Crucial sticks was identified by a configurator as being compatible with the K7N2 Delta L that I decided to buy. In the end, not only did both sticks work, but I put them in as single channel mode (ram slots 1 & 2), but later changed the configuration to dual channel mode (ram slots 1 & 3, even 2 & 3). It worked flawlessly in all three configurations. Sorry for the long answer, but in essence, there are no guarantees and your worries will drive you crazy. When memory is mixed, you reduce the likelihood of compatibility, even when you go beyond the recommended products that were specifically identified.
    That guy at the computer shop, did he ever indicate or isolate the true reason why the memory wouldn't work ? Maybe, maybe not. I would think with a disparity in memory, the bios is the key to setting the settings for the worst stick of the bunch. Then again, the products you get might overclock to what the better sticks run at. My assumption is that mixed sticks, the bios retards settings to this in "auto" mode. When you force it manually, it may work or it may fail. One thing you oughta know, each and every stick has the manufacturers id encoded onto them at the very least, just like the firmware on other items indicates a manufacturer code and other data that allows these things to be compatible. So know you face that battle going in with any of them. If the bios programming doesn't allow it to work, from that perspective, there'll be problems.

  • How to reduce from 5º to 8ºC CPU Temp on your MSI K7N2 Delta!

    I've installed this tweak last week and it is working very stable since then. It decreased my Idle CPU Temp from 42º to 36º and Overload from 54º to 48º:
    Just go: http://forums.pcper.com/showindex.php?t=280137
    AMD ATHLON XP 2600+ 12.5x333mhz 1.65V ~OC 11.5x400mhz 1.55V
    Thermaltake Volcano 9
    MSI K7N2 Delta L
    MSI GF4 4200-8X graphics Card
    160GB Maxtor HDD 7200rpm
    768MB Samsung DDR3200
    LG 48x24x48x/16x CDROM/DVD Reader
    Dual Fan 450W Troni Power Suppy

    It seems that the link to the tweak is broken, I've found another one:
    http://ftp://ftp.vector.co.jp/pack/win95/hardware/other/wpcre14.exe
    This is what the article say:
    Just tried it for the first time..It works GREAT
    My idle temps are now 26c, down from 34c. That's 8C. I can have Winamp, IE and messenger running and CPU temps don't get by 29c.  Once i fire up, SETI though...I get back my regular Load temps at 39c.
    Some of you probably know about it, already....here's for thousand others that don't.
    This tweak can drop your idle CPU temps down as much as 8c, maybe more...depending on your system.
    First thing you need to do is download WPCRSET & WPCREDIT.
    They're both in this zip.
    - Extract to a directory.
    - Run "INSTDD.EXE". Click Install. When done, you will be prompted for restart. Hit Yes! -
    - Then go back to the folder with extracted files, and open "WPCREDIT.EXE"
    - A ms-dos like window will pop-up. Move the blinking block (with arrow keys or your mouse pointer) until it says Offset 6F at the buttom. Now, click on the two digit number where it says "HEX", and change it to 1F (The Hex for Offset 6F would have previously been 9F, 8F or something else). Hit Set.
    Your idle temps should now start falling.
    You would have to do this hack/tweak everytime you rebooted your computer if it wasn't for WPCRSET.
    - Go to directory and run "WPCRSET.EXE"
    - Look at the top of the window: Enable select "Start" and make sure Device is on "enable"
    - Then click Add. Enter 6F for the register, and 1F for the data
    - Click Ok and you'll be prompted to restart.
    Once, you rebooted, open WCREDIT again and see if the 6F register is still on 1F. If it is, then that's it..You're all done.
    Here's a Screenie of how it should be:
    This only brings your idle temps down, and not your full load temps
    It should work for all nforce2s, and use at your own risk
    Check your nf7-s for CPU Disconnect. Most other nforce2 motherboards do not have this feature in the bios...so this tweak might prove useful.
    READ THE WHOLE THREAD BEFORE TRYING THIS!
    If you run a Distributed Computing project...then obviously this would be of no use to you
    Quote:
    Originally posted by Abducted on 12-16-2003 at 03:43 PM
    It activates the C1 (and maybe the C2) function Athlon XP CPU's support. Most mainboard brands have this feature as an option in the bios you can enable and disable. I just found out that EPoX doesn't have that feature. So what you're doing is just using a direct reg tweak to activate it. It's not like you're forcing anything, the Athlon XP chips are made to support this feature so it shouldn't do any damage.
    When the CPU is idle the mainboard will send a command to the CPU that will cause a part of the CPU to be deactivated (and therefore not produce any heat). That's why this tweak only works on the idle temp and doesn't change anything on the load temp. Ofcourse as soon as the CPU power is needed the deactivated part will become active again, so it should have any influence on the performance of the CPU.  
    Strangely, my full load temp has decreased 6º C degrees too.

  • Help! amd xp3000+ barton temp's.... k7n2 delta ilsr

    Hi all, (sorry for the lengthy post)
    Ive recently built a new system based on the K7N2 DELTA ILSR, great mobo, however my cpu temps are extremely high! on idle 48C and on load nearly 60C. the mobo temp hits approx 40c on load and 34 on idle.
    I had an issue with cooling as the cpu heat diode would freeze my pc as it was hitting temps of 58c on idle. i was using the coolermaster aero 7+.... no good at all!!!!! even when on full rpm. Now im using a vantec 80mm fan on a Thermalright SLK-800A. much improved, however still extremely hot.
    after reading this review (section headed: Heat Dissipation: Thermal Conditions and S2K Bus Disconnect) :
    http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/athlonxp-3000.html
    ......on "S2k bus disconnect" created by AMD for the barton range.
    As the article states, it reduces Cpu temps ALOT!! but im not too sure ion how to activate it or even if my MSI motherboard supports it....
    Can anyone shed some light???
    system:
    Radeon 9800
    1GB 3200 Ram
    xp 3000+ Barton
    Sound Audigy 2
    Thanks, Sav

    Sorry about the long reply!!! the first thing i would like to say is why does this happen at 58C even with the bios temp settings diabled??? pehapes MSI could Answer this?
    I have spent countless hours trying to fix this problem and a lot of £££. A bit of background to me I am a design engineer and i like my PC to work well. I have the following main components
    xp3200+ based system (Max die 85C)
    with dual 512ddr sticks running at 400mhz
    Matrox Parphilia
    10K SATA hard disk
    7,200 133ATA hard drive
    Plus motherboard Nvidia chipset
    these all kick out a lot of heat the (CPU contributing 76.8w).
    first i started out with a very cheap case and standard amd heatsink. I found after about 5 minutes my pc kept crashing i automatically thought that it was probably the case temperature so monitored this found every time cpu reached 58C it crashed on the dot. The only conclusion i can draw from this that this MB has some thermal protection that can not be switched off but i am guessing perhapes MSI would like to answer this.
    I quickly decided as an engineer that the best thing would be to go and buy a aluminuim case with lots of case fans (Basically a big heatsink itself). After a lot of searching i settled for a Coolermaster ATC110. It has four case fans all run at full speed all the time. Now this stoped the crashing problem it only now crashes if i put it under continous loading. Then i went out and bought a new cpu heatsink to replace the amd standard one. This had a minor effect on cpu temp but again under high loads the system crashed at 58C. Obvoiusly as an engineer i satred to think that the amount of noise the system with all its fans going at max is like being put in a wind tunnel.
    I then turned to looking at the thermal diserpation requiremnts of all the bits in my system. I worked out that i need to disserpate 281Wmax of heat with my current setup. The kind of heat a small electric fire produces!!!. I begun to wounder if i could shift enough air through the two exhaust fans at the rooms ambient temp to do this. After some calculations I found that my case exhaust case fans are only just surfficent to disspate this amount. Which could explain this the crashing. because the higher the case temp the lower the capability of the heatsinks to conduct heat away from the item.
    In the end i gave up with active cooling methods (heatsinks and fans) and realised my only option was to go for external cooling. I now have the system setup with a koolance exos cooling both hardisks graphics card cpu and MBchipset. I know this is very extreme but the case fan noise got to me now i have disconected all case fans except for the ones in my thermaltake power supply which are virtually silent. After about 12 evenings of testing and installation I now have a system which is not only stable but the CPU temp is only 32C.
    Obvoiusly getting the heat out of the case is a good idea. The Exos is only running at it's lowest setting which means the  fans arnt making any noticable noise.
    MOST IMPORTANTLY IT DOES NOT CRASH ANY MORE. AND THERE IS THE PSSIBILTY OF OVERCLOCKING.
    The question still remains though why 58C?

  • K7N2 Delta-L temp reading and Vcore

    Ok so i took the plunge and bought a K7N2 Delta-L. I using PC alert 4 to read the temp and the vcore setting. Now my question is is the temp off to some degree? I read 127F under full load and my case is HELLLLLA cooled.
    Another thing is in my bios i have my Vcore set to to HW. Now if im not mistaken doesnt a 2000Xp run at 1.75V? In PC Alert and in Sandra my Vcore is showing 1.81 max.
    Im new to the board, so any help will be great.
    I have the lastest Bios and nForce drivers. Updated with Live Update.

    I started using Speedfan and my temp dropped to about 98F in idle and about 110 with CPU full load.
    Im using 4 case fans with a Zalman 3000Plus. I was worried thinking my puter was overheated, but was little thrown by the nice cool air coming from the back and top exhaust.
    I wasnt however able to get the Vcore to change. I tried the trick with Cmos and tried the power off PS switch off trick but still shows the same volt in Speedfan. BTW Speedfan was exact on temp reading, was exact same reading from PC health in Bios.
    As for cpu, I cant remeber which mine was, its a Green wafer with the code stamped on the chip, not off to the side. ARIOA i belive was the code on the chip.

  • Please, Help!... K7n2 Delta L And Temp...

    well, i´ve a K7N2 DELTA L and noticed that the processor temp., since it began to work, two days ago, is around 47 ~ 51°C in idle mode.... and when i play any game, just like Call of Duty, or RTCW Enemy Territory, it stays around 56 ~ 62°C... is it okay or too hot... I see it in PC ALERT 4....
    Please, help!

    I get the exact same temperatures, 60'C max load though. I don't see it as a problem since I live in Greece and right now the temperature outside is a good 40'C ! During the winter the temps (cpu, case and outside ) drop a lot (don't know how much since I only built my system about a month ago).
    For me, under these circumstances, the best cooling option if I want to further drop my temps, is turn on the airconditioner in my room !
    Jorge

  • MSI K7N2 Delta Platinum

    I want to update my mother board, I am thinking of getting a K7N2 Delta Platinum has anyone got anything good or bad to say about this board?

    Hi Ballie,
    I've recently got one of these.
    Had a lot of fun installing the operating system etc direct from a K7N2G-ILSR board. Most of them revolved around the fact that the RAID controllers are different so I had no choice but to wipe the discs and do a clean install. BACK EVERYTHING UP BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING (yes I'm shouting, so you can hear me....)
    I've still not got a proper answer to the problem in this thread yet http:// [url=https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=71500]RAID not fault tolerant on K7N2 Delta 2 Platinum? [/url]
    , but the board works fine. The overclocking capabilities of the CoreCell technology are very good. I got it up to somewhere in the 2500's before it crashed and then it restarted beautifully at a setting just below the one it went out on, all on it's own.
    I'm not running it overclocked presently.
    I think my personal preference would be for a board with the Promise RAID controller as it is configurable, whereas nVidia's Raidman is purely a look and see program. If they sorted that out to the same standard as Promise then I would be happy. Obviously, if you don't plan to use RAID that isn't going to be an issue.
    Plenty of USB ports, etc. and nice easy colour coded plugs, etc. to make sure you shove them connectors in all the right holes. Has 9 holes for attaching the board to the case, so plugging things like memory chips into it doesn't cause it to bend as much as the less well supported boards. I'd still plug things in on a flat surface before mounting the board though.
    The CPU temperature sensor is one of those bendy wire things, so make sure you peel the paper off the underside of the chip and carefully curve the temp wire over into a U shape so that it springs up and presses flat against the underside of the centre part of the chip for best accuracy.
    One odd thing - the temperature readings that are active in my CoreCell are CPU and System. The Northbridge temp isn't showing, dunno why... anyone got any suggestions??  
    A lot of the connectors are concentrated on the right side of the board and this can give rise to a few cable conflicts with things like HDD's getting in the way, but if you have a case with a choice of HDD mounting slots you can easily overcome these minor niggles.
    On the whole I like this board. If it does as well as the last board I think I'll be well happy. Hope this has helped you. If you have any further questions don't hesitate to ask.

  • MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR Dead? Help!

    Hey all,
    Well, the other day I was on my computer playing a game when my mobo fan started making an odd noise (as if switching rpm), so I took off the side of my case and took a look inside. Everything seemed to be functioning properly, then I switched my cpu fan speed via the pci slot speed control. As I switched from High-Medium-Low, I noticed that the fan actually slowed to the point where I could see the blades spinning, at least for a second or so. I found that rather odd, seeing as how I've never seen a fan (especially a cpu fan) slow to the point that I could see the blades spin. Anyway, a couple of hours later, I shut down and went to sleep.
    The next day I had my comp on for about maybe 30mins to an hour or so when suddenly I heard an alarm from the computer speaker, so I was like, ":censored:?" since I had never heard it before. It was evidently the temperature warning, which I had set to 70C. So I shut down within 15 seconds and opened up the side of my case.
    I noticed that the cpu fan wasn't moving at all (usually I'd open the case in time to see the spin-down). So I turned the computer back on and the fan didn't budge, so I immediately powered down, assuming that the CPU Fan had died. Later on, I hooked the fan itself up to a free power cord in my sister's computer and booted up, along with the speed controller, flipping from medium to high to low without any problems.
    I then did screwed the fan back to the heatsink in my comp and booted up. I went into the bios an noticed that the rpm was 8k, which is way too high for my fan (normally 5k). So i began switching from high, medium, to low once again, then I saw that the rpm reader in the bios went to 0. So I looked back in the side of my case and saw that the cpu fan was once again dead. At this point I concluded that it was the fan and was about to order the Volcano 12.
    A day later I placed the fan inside my sister's computer on a free cord, yet again, and yet again, it worked fine.
    I once again put it in my computer to test and this time it worked fine, even while switching between speeds. Unfortunately, I then noticed that the mobo fan was not moving, then began to move.
    Well, I'm guessing now that it's simply the motherboard that has a short, since both the motherboard fan as well as the cpu fan have randomly been dying the past few days. The motherboard fan; however, has switched rpm many times in the past from 5k to 3k.
    It could also be a PSU problem, but I have Antec 400watt psu and it's been working fine for the past 2 years, so I doubt it. I've had the motherboard for a little over a year. I upgraded my cpu from 2200+ to 3000+ in July. That's also when I bought the cpu fan. The motherboard fan began fluctuating in rpm noticeably back in April or May of this year.
    Yesterday, I used the computer again and had it on for about 2 hours or so and I had speedfan monitoring the temps and the rpm. The temps stayed relatively stable: 48 cpu, 44 mobo.
    But alas, the RPMs were totally [blame me for the swear filter] up. At one point, both the mobo and cpu fan speeds were reading 0, even though both continued to spin within the case and the temps remained the same. Then after 30mins or so, they cpu fan began reading again at 40,000-42,000rpm, which is obviously incorrect, seeing as the fan is rated for around 5k. I got/get the same readings in the bios, both fans reading at 0rpm as they continue to physically spin.
    Also, during a number of times that I've started up the comp within the past few days, the motherboard northbridge fan wasn't spinning at all and didn't begin to until a few minutes into my windows session.
    Also, I took out the NB fan and noticed a slight crack in the back of it.
    I was considering simply just buying the Volcano 12 and the MSI K7N2 Delta2 Platinum rather than RMAing the mobo. Then perhaps an Antec 550W psu, if necessary.
    Any ideas what I should replace and in which order? And has anybody else encountered any similar problems with this mobo (at least with the mobo rpm, which has been a prob for about 6months on and off)?
    I bought the mobo along with a 2200+ in July of 2003. I upgraded the ram from 256 to 512 in April 2004 (which is around the time I started hearing rpm probs with the mobo fan) and I upgraded the cpu in July of 2004
    Many Thanks!  
    My Specs are as follows:
    Windows XP Professional SP1
    Antec SX1040B2 File Server Case
    400watt Antec PSU
    MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR
    AMD Athlon XP 3000+ (2.17GHz)
    Thermaltake TR2 M2 HSF
    Kingston 256MB of PC2700 DDR-333MHz RAM
    Generic 256MB of PC2700 DDR-333MHz RAM
    ATI All-In-Wonder 9800 Pro
    Sound Blaster Audigy 2ZS Platinum
    Pioneer 10x DVD Drive
    Sony 8x Double Layer DVD-+RW
    Western Digital 120.0GB 7200RPM HD ATA/100
    Western Digital 120.0GB 7200RPM HD ATA/100
    nForce Ethernet Adapter w/Cable line
    Logitech MX500 Optical Mouse
    Logitech Elite Keyboard
    19" Envision Monitor EN985e
    Logitech Z-680 5.1 Speakers

    Could be a fluctuating PSU that's breaking down power to the MB. You have a whole lot of components dragging that PSU down. With what you have in your rig I would run either an Antec or Enermax 550W. Best way to be sure is to borrow a PSU or buy one from a store with a good return policy so that you can return it if indeed it turns out to be the MB. If I don't have your board here on my bench to test the only thing I can suggest to you is to swap out components unfortunately.

  • MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR (MS-6570) BSOD problems grrr

    I recently purchased this board and although it is an awesome product, I'm having a problem with BSOD's when I play a game for a certain period of time
    Specs:
    MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR  (7.6 BIOS)
    AMD Athlon XP 2800+ Barton
    512MB (2x256MB) Samsung PC-2700 DDR memory (2.5-3-3-6 1T)
    MSI 128MB GeForce4 Ti 4200 (4X AGP)
    NVIDIA nForce on-board sound
    Western Digital 80GB drive w/ 8MB cache
    MSI X48 CD/CD-RW/DVD combo drive
    Windows XP Professional SP1
    PSU:
    Turbolink 420watt (came with case)
    +3.3V is 28A
    +5V is 40A
    +12V is 18A
    So what happens is I get a STOP error during the game that shows the kmixer.sys driver as the culprit. Sometimes it's accompanied by PAGE_FAULT_IN_NON_PAGED_AREA too. I read somewhere that kmixer.sys has to do with windows audio and that it's a 3rd party driver issue or a memory issue. I'm using the latest NVIDIA 3.13 nForce platform drivers. I ran Memtest lastnight for 12 hours straight and 0 errors. I'm thinking the memory may not be compatible with the board nor dual channel, is this possible? I have also tried several different drivers for both video and chipset including MSI's own and I still get the kmixer.sys BSOD when playing games. My previous motherboard was an MSI KT3 Ultra2-R (MS-6380E) which I had no issues with. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
    --Update--
    I just tried to play a game with audio disabled and it crashed this time with DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL with nv4_mini.sys as the problem. My IRQ table shows some sharing, but device manager shows no conflicts.

    Ok I tried running the DTM-CB3 module which is nForce2 approved at 3-4-4-11 2T timings and experienced the same result even at 2.6 and 2.7v. I tried both in dual-channel and same thing happened. However, I downloaded a program called Prime95 and ran the CPU torture test and the system returned a fatal error within the first few minutes. CPU Temp was at 57 C and the warning beep (set to 60C though) sounded intermittentley which is strange. I let it cool down then ran the torture test again and about 5min. later the system either seized completely or the program crashed. IE has also crashed randomly on me. I did this several times, before trying a different FSB/DRAM ratio. So I left the system at 200 FSB and used a 6:5 ratio so my memory was running at DDR333 and processor was a 3200+. I ran Prime95 again and the system locked up just as it did the other times.  So after I did this a few times with consistent results. I went back and set the FSB to 166 and tried a 5:6 ratio so the memory was DDR400 and processor was the normal 2800+. I ran it again and to my suprise it passed all the tests and after an hour of this, I tried a game and that was perfectly fine as well. I checked the temps and CPU was only 45 C this time. So I'm thinking the processor can't handle anything above 50C or it's just plain overheating. I ordered a Thermaltake Silent Boost HSF today which is tested up to 3400+ so this should fix my problem. If not, then I'm going to replace the memory with a 512MB Geil PC3200 golden dragon dual-channel kit.

  • K7N2 Delta No Raid or Sata - Refuses to install OS

    Hi
    From what I gather, I think I have bought a bit of a tricky board and hopefully some fine people in here may help me resolve my dilemma.
    The Mainboard:
    MSI K7N2 Delta without RAID or SATA.
    The Components to be installed:
    Athlon MP 1800+ completely bog standard
    S3 S8 Nitro 256 8x AGP
    2x256 paired PC2700 Micron DDR DIMM's
    Benq 16x DVD Writer Secondary Master
    Maxtor 40Gb IDE Diamond Max HDD Primary Master
    IDE Cables are extremely high quality ATA133 jobs.
    Power Supply:
    Brand New Delux 450 Watt with home built power conditioning throughput - Extremely little fluctuation even under massive load!
    This little lot above is sitting in my Asus A7V333 mobo, it is a brilliant little setup but I intend to open the 1800 up or crank up a Duron Applebred which a friend had performing like a dream when he unlocked it...
    The Issue:
    I have been building and playing with PC's since I built my first Sinclair ZX80 way back in the 70's, so I know what's what in a box.
    I put the mobo in the case, connected it all up, connected it up and hey presto, a POST screen and I managed to get into BIOS.
    Then it died...
    Waited the requisite ten to fifteen seconds after turning the PSU off, again, shut down.
    I checked the J10 and J11 jumpers, set J10 to safe (100Mhz) leaving J11 closed, we have a stable BIOS but a CPU that is running at 1150Mhz and no manner of messing with the frequency settings will move that Mhz up.
    So I decided to persevere, put XP in, started to load, go to the message "Setup is starting Windows" and again it shut off.
    Odd!
    Took out one of the mem DIMMS, reset J10 to 133/166, shut off, reset, moved the DIMM to another slot, and again, off it went and so forth.
    Changed the memory to a Kingston 128Mb, again powered off.
    Put an ATi Radeon 9250 in it... same old same old...
    A Nvidia GeForce 2 MX replaced the ATi, beginnning to look at smashing the thing to pieces in frustration, dies at either startup or "Setup is starting Windows"
    Pulled the DVD drive, still the same, did all this with the FSB set to 100Mhz, got as far as Setup is starting Windows and died.
    Found a stock XP 1800+, stuck that in, followed the above and stil it would either go past BIOS screen in 133/166 or would crash at "Setup is starting Windows"
    Now, why have I not sent this board back...?
    I took it round a friends, who stuck a 2400+ in, some crappy old Samsung memory, his case has "El Cheapo" stamped on the PSU and the bloody thing powered up right as rain...
    So we reflashed the BIOS, used the manual again to set it up for the 1800+ and I brought it back, no go...
    Ye Gods, This is a sore trial indeed and I am beginning to regret being coaxed into taking this board on, playing Need For Speed Most Wanted on my Asus looks superb (the S8 Nitro is a really underrated card).
    Any ideas before its "Hammer Time"..?
    Ancient One

    Hi
    I only have PC2700 unfortunately being somewhat misled by Crucial that my FSB would run at 333 if I put it into the Asus.
    I have rejected the GeForce because it really looks 'orrible running under the board, it may be failing in any case but the artefact seems to be there only when installed to the MSI, on the Asus, it runs perfectly and gets a reasonable score on 3dMark 2001 for what it is.   Being an MX means that even though its bigger spec than some GF3s , the memory is a lot lot older claiming to be DDR when in fact it is early SD.   The Abit Radeon 9250 is my trusty reference card as it can stoop to 2x if need be but will run in all sockets but doesn't perform as well in any way with the S8 Nitro which apperently has futureproof tech in anticipation of DX10.
    The board I have, has 5 pastel green jumpers, CMOS clear at 1-2, J10 & 11 plus two down the bottom left that I can't find reference to in my manual, I suspect these are to do with the sound and USB capabilities so thought to check what these were.
    The BIOS flash didn't change anything and in the BIOS I noticed that I was getting thermal readings from the temp sensor so thats out of the window as well.
    FSB settings I have tried are 9 x 166, 11.5 x 133 and variations in between trying to make up 1534 or thereabouts.
    I am wondering of a pinout mod to the XP socket might do the trick if I can out the FSB locks, I noticed that I cannot change the voltage Vcore to 1.75+ which is the juice that the Palomino needs, it is stuck on 1.60+ thus undervolting it somewhat, on the Asus there is a jumper for freeing the volting up, I wonder if there is anything the same on the MSI...?   I tmight be detecting the MP as a mobile and then finding it locked thus not able to process the chip as it should be eg less volts and variable rates of frequency... Hmmm
    There is more though...  I found an old Duron 950, ran the system up on 100FSB and the second jumper open and vóila, went past the point of "Setup is starting Windows" and began to install on the HDD.
      So it is looking increasingly like a conflict with the Athlon's of the 1800 variety...
    On an aside about temps, I found that an hour on Prime95 can "cook" the artic silver and gain anything up to a 4 degree average cooler temp, I also use S2K bus disconnect software as well as them Palomino cores don't like switching themselves off into the halt states do they?
    BTW Delux state that the PSU should exceed the given expectations but I wonder about this as I had to condition the output because it was quite wide in its fluctuations on the scope, I found a thing on the net on how to condition the output, so that it never drops under the expected voltage but can freely be drawn on as demand requires.   The advantage of the Peliter kit was I could run other fans directly off it leaving the 12V rails with less demand but pulse emulators are never as good as a 2700rpm rotor in keeping the board assured that a fan is spinning.   The MSI board isn't exactly abound with fan plugs...
    Thanks all again
    Ancient One

  • Two dead K7N2 Delta-ilsr's..

    Greetings...
    I seem to have the same probles with this board a LOT of others do...
    EXCEPT for the fact eventually the board dies(?)
    Just winks out...power goes off...restart evokes a one second blink of power,
    then the power switch does nothing...unplug...plug in, hit the power, BLINK, dead...repeat...same results...
    reset cmos...remove cmos battery...restart?
    BLINK...nothing.
    strip board of everything one piece at a time down to mobo vid card cpu memory heatsink/fan...reassemble one piece at a time...
    same result.
    help.
    (Tried other vid cards...checked all pins and connections everywhere...everything works fine in other machines)
    Ski
    antec true 500 (ok other machine voltages good)
    3200xp (ok other machine)
    k7n2delta-ilsr (second one, lasted a couplea days longer than the first)
    thermalright slk-900/92m vantec tornado (temps good)
    2x512 kingmax pc3500 sveral different timings and voltages (single channel, tests OK in other machine)

    Tried it outa the case...its outa the case right now.
    first board died after a day, second died after 4 days.
    ALMOST had everything loaded on the second,
    ran 3dmark2001se several times to check temps and performance
    and was satisfied...checking my e-mail, BLINK...like the power went out, just like the first one...arrgh. Best 3dmark score was 15,241, BTW...
    NO apparent physical damage...if I pull the power cord and stick it back in, I can get it to BLINK once, fans and drives power up for a second.
    pulled the vid card and stuck it in this lil KM2M combo,
    gonna put the gig of DDR in here too while I'm waiting for a new board...
    RMA tomorrow, only I DON'T want to waste any more time
    on what amounts to only the SECOND problem of a couplea dozen or so boards I've installed in the last 7 years...last bad board was a shuttle socket 7, BTW...
    2 in a row, me and the K7N2 Delta are finished.
    Still like to know if anybody else can come up with possible answers,
    might help somebody else...LOL!

  • Win ME vs. K7N2 Delta raid drivers

    I am seriously wondering if there is such a thing called "no conflict PC".
    After an enormous headache concerning s-ata hdd and smart/temp readings....which I gave up, a new problem arises today, well, it must have been there from the day 1.
    Running Win ME (dual boot, don’t ask why) I tried copying a few big files on s-ata drive (K7N2 Delta ILSR mobo) connected via raid. And everything stops??!?! Mouse pointer freezes, winamp stops, everything is dead for a few seconds than it reverts back to normal, copy s a few second, and freezes everything again. 
    So I look in system properties, s-ata drive is using ms-dos compatibility mode, ? I tried adding a P-ata drive on raid controller and removing a s-ata drive, same thing. Great, drivers are at "IT" again. And normally, raid controller is disabled saying "windows stopped responding while attempting to start this device, and will never try to start them again". So I tried to reinstall drivers, and after rebooting I got a "windows protection error, system halted" BSOD. Rebooted again, windows up and running, but the RAID is disabled again, ms-dos compatibility mode welcome back.
    Interesting thing is, while watching movies, playing games...and stuff form s-ata drive I have no problems and no freezes, copying a DVD on a same drive makes no problems, but as soon as I try to copy a file from a hdd, freezing is back. Go figure.
    Any ideas?

    Quote
    ms-dos compatibility mode
    If I remember correctly, that is, or was a BIOS option on the K7N pre Delta and Delta boards, and should not be enabled, might wanna look into that. I inquired about that to MSI engineers back when the Delta was released, and was told not to enable it.
    Oh,.. and WinME will lose every time  Win ME vs. K7N2 Delta raid drivers

  • K7N2 Delta won't shut down...

    Ok, I installed a new K7N2 Delta-L and run windows XP. Everything works great. Kudo's to MSI for their excellent instruction manual.
    Windows shuts down, but then the thing reboots. I have a 350 watt Codegen psu. I've checked to make sure I don't have the reset or power sw switched around, and I don't. I switched and even reversed them just to make sure.
    Is there something in bios to stop this?
    Also, in case a moderator reads this post...I used Live Update to make sure I have the latest BIOS, and now do. I'm getting a difference in cpu temp readings...PC Health in the bios reads usually 10c higher than what PC ALert through windows does.
    Which is correct? PC ALert 4 usually says cpu is in the low 30's, PC Health reads in the low to mid 40's...

    hi
    there is an issue about the system and cpu temp readings.
    some bios shows to high some to low.
    low to mid 40 is nothing to worry about.
    pc alert does show wrong quite often.
    get speedfan instead.
    bye

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