K8T Neo 2 - digital out (SPDIF) for audio possible?

Hello,
I just upgraded from a K8T Neo, which sported an coaxial digital output, to the K8T Neo2. Unfortunately, I didn't look at the specifications before and assumed that "5.1 digital sound" also implied an digital connector.
This isn't so. (BTW: I wonder how this 5.1 is meant?!?!?? There are only the three standard jacks for analog stereo i/o present....)
Is there any possibility to add an coaxial digital output to this board? I don't need any audio fancy, and no analog output, just the digital connection to listen to my music and to pass-through DVD sound.
Thanx in advance.

OK here is a cheap option to get digital surround.
Here is what I have, it works great:
http://us.creative.com/products/product.asp?category=1&subcategory=205&product=14257
I actually picked it up at walmart
It may seem odd because it's a regular headphone jack to plug your digital receiver into, but all you need is this cord: http://us.creative.com/products/product.asp?category=1&subcategory=16&product=253 in which you plug the mini-jack into your Audigy SE and the other end (white mono) into your digital receiver or speakers.
Or you can spend a couple more bucks to buy this accessory which will let you connect either an optical or digital coax cord: http://us.creative.com/products/product.asp?category=1&subcategory=16&product=1780
This is all assuming you have digital compatible speakers, of course

Similar Messages

K8T NEO - MSI/Via Raid Tool useless

I am one of those unfortunate people who bought a K8T Neo FSR Motherboard (Mine has been replaced 3 times after failing totally but whose counting?). I am now having serious problems with my fourth version of this motherboard or at least I think I am. I am not sure!
Let me explain:
My SATA HDD Disk drives keep failing - or more correctly - I am getting messages from Windows Error Reporting that tells me there are disk problems. The exact error messages are reproduced below:
Event Type:   Error
Event Source:   viamraid
Event Category:   None
Event ID:     9
Date:      31/08/2006
Time:      8:32:41 PM
User:      N/A
Computer:   MASTER
Description: The device, \Device\Scsi\viamraid1, did not respond within the timeout period.
For more information, see Help and Support Center at http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/events.asp.
Data:
0000: 0f 00 10 00 01 00 6a 00 ......j.
0008: 00 00 00 00 09 00 04 c0 .......À
0010: 00 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
0018: 5b 09 00 00 00 00 00 00 [.......
0020: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
0028: 00 00 00 00 02 00 00 00 ........
0030: 00 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 ........
This is immediately followed by the following message:
Event Type:   Warning
Event Source:   Disk
Event Category:   None
Event ID:     51
Date:      31/08/2006
Time:      8:32:41 PM
User:      N/A
Computer:   MASTER
Description: An error was detected on device \Device\Harddisk2\D during a paging operation.
For more information, see Help and Support Center at http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/events.asp.
Data:
0000: 04 00 68 00 01 00 b6 00 ..h...¶.
0008: 00 00 00 00 33 00 04 80 ....3..
0010: 2d 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 -.......
0018: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
0020: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
0028: 57 87 00 00 00 00 00 00 W......
0030: ff ff ff ff 03 00 00 00 ÿÿÿÿ....
0038: 40 00 00 44 00 00 02 00 @..D....
0040: ff 20 0a 12 88 02 20 40 ÿ ... @
0048: 00 00 01 00 0a 00 00 00 ........
0050: 00 00 00 00 00 06 6c 84 ......l
0058: 00 00 00 00 60 36 62 86 ....`6b
0060: 00 00 00 00 f7 04 81 05 ....÷..
0068: 2a 00 05 81 04 f7 00 00 *...÷..
0070: 80 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 .......
0078: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
0080: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
0088: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
I started getting these messages from a brand new SATA HDD which I immediately replaced. All went well for a week or so and then I started getting the exact same error messages all over again!
Were both HDD's really defective? I am beginning to wonder!
The practical implication of the above errors is that my computer freezes totally - I can't do anything at all - no mouse - no keyboard - no saving work - nothing! When I reboot and run Scandisk /F /R I sometimes get some disk surface errors but mostly I don't.
To my way of thinking there are two possibilities:
(1) Both these disk drives have genuine technical problems (ie such as surface errors)
(2) The MSI/Via SATA disk controllers on the motherboard are faulty and this is causing disk errors or possibly even disk crashes (is this even possible? I don't know!)
After the bad run that I have already had with K8T NEO motherboards please forgive me for being suspicious that my HDD problems really could result from a faulty SATA/HDD/Controller rather than genuine disk errors.
To help resolve the issue I downloaded and installed MSI's latest SATA HDD disk drivers which includes the VIA RAID TOOL. The raid tool includes an option to "check the status of controllers and disk drives" and a system "log" which is supposed to record all error conditions/events that occur on devices it controls.
The main problem here is that *IT DOESN'T WORK* !!!
Just a short wile ago my system started acting strangely and then it froze again (third time this hour). I opened the MSI/VIA Raid Tool from the System Tray and checked the logs - There was nothing in them at all - and yet in Windows Error Reporting there were 5 distinct error conditions reported. Obviously the MSI/VIA Raid Tool doesn't work too well.
I am at a loss as to what to do next. Has anybody out there had similar problems?
What steps should I take to resolve these issues?
Any comments/suggestions?

Not sure how a scope can let you know if you are supplying enough amps. Ripple and noise are basically non issues as the voltages are further regulated on the MB before they get to the componant level.
Almost everything is now regulated from the 12v supply unlike past systems were. As Watts do not tell how much 12v is being supplied by the PSU it is a non starter when you desribe your PSU. You can have a PSU that is 500w and only provides 8a on the 12v rail. That will not even allow an A64 system to startup. As is said over and over again in the forum don't assume that a 500w PSU will ruin your Rig. 24 or more amps on the 12v rail is recommended for a small to mid size build now days. More may be needed as you add parts to your system.
As this is not a common problem on that board, and I should know as I built a fairly large rig from one... We need to have complete specs. Did you know that a high end ATi Vid Card can use more juice than many CPU's you can use on that board? See why this is a concern that we get all the specs?
Like Hans said though I won't bother asking again either. Without some idea what we are looking at all we are doing is looking into a crystal ball. We would like to see if we can help but working with a crystal ball isn't in the tech manual.

No Option for Digital Out

After a week of trying to get the Digital Audio Out to work on the X-Fi Audio Extreme card I purchased I'm giving up on Creative! I've always used SoundBlaster Li've & Audigy cards on every computer I've built in the past. I'm building an HTPC & I want to be able to run Digital Audio signals thru my A/V receiver. I have a couple of other units that work just fine this way. One using the original Audigy card & another with the built in C-Media sound. I did a lot of searching & see a lot of other people with the same problem. From what I've determined is that "digital port" is a combination I/O port. In both the Creative console & the Audio console there is no option to enable the Digital Out and no soundcard option to enable "spdif bypass". How can it be with all the posts on the forum here and elsewhere that someone from Creative hasn't realized that there is no option in the software to do this?I bought a Gigabyte motherboard for this HTPC that has built in sound with SPDIF out. After a lot of screwing around trying to get SPDIF to work I found in small print in the manual that to enable the spdif out you need to order a special cable/bracket to enable the SPDIF out from the motherboard. Nowhere on any web site was this mentioned. Turns out the ONLY place in the US to get one of these is from Gigabyte directly!?Very frustrated with these computer hardware outfits that don't supply the proper info for their products. Anyone else feel the same way??

I'm pretty sure I installed all the programs that came on the cd. Did all the upgrades also. I've always liked the sound quality of the SBlaster line of cards. I was searching last nite on the Compusa site & saw a couple of Diamond Multimedia cards and they had separate SPDIF in & out ports on the back of the card. Certainly seems they would be a lot simpler to get working properly than having one port for both in & out functions. Now a moot point for me as I sent away for the SPDIF cable & bracket from Gigabyte to use the onboard sound. Returned the X-Fi card last nite to CC.

What is the SPDIF Optical Out meant for?

I have connected the optical s/pdif out from my Neo2 Platinum to my Panasonic 5.1 Receiver, but I can´t hear anything. The "red light" reaches the receiver, but it can´t decode the signal somehow. I had this with my Audigy 2 card: When I enabled "96khz" my receiver couldn´t read the signal, but when I changed this option to "48khz" it works perfectly. Unfortunately I can´t see this option within the AC97 drivers. So what can I do?
Yesterday I had PowerDVD and Winamp running side by side. I could actually hear the PowerDVD movie, but not the MP3 from Winamp. So it has something to do with the signal from the mainboard. How can I change this?

Quote from: bassmadrigal on 14-July-05, 15:42:01
The spdif out is only capable of relaying dolby encoded sound to the receiver. It is unable to transfer 2 channel..
Um. No.
Per the original question - the optical connector carries the exact same signal as the coaxial digital.
The funny truth is that SPDIF wasn't intended for listening. It was intended for karaoke. They thought they'd make CDs with the lyrics encoded in the less significant bits of the audio stream, and have the karaoke machine strip them out of the bitstream.
But audiophiles started using the SPDIF digital out on their CD players to connect them to audiophile-grade DACs.
Since it wasn't really designed for audio, there's some occasional (mostly insignificant) bit distortion, and the distortion can be made worse by a ground loop introduced by the shield on the coaxial connection.
The optical connection overcomes those issues pretty well. There's no electrical connection and thus no possibility of multiple paths to ground, and the data latches built into the optical transmitter and receiver guarantee that bits are better defined.
Don't pay a lot for optical spdif ("toslink") cables. The only feature worth anything is strain relief on the connector, to keep you from accidentally yanking the fiber out of the connector. The common plastic fiber works just as well as glass on hookups less than about 150 feet in length.
The relivant specifications are IEC60958 and IEC61937. Google for 'em, it's interesting reading.
ANYWAY, as per the specific question.
Pursuant to IEC60958 and AC97 specifications, and restricted by the choice of the ALC850 codec chip, the digital audio connectors on the Neo2 are capable of 48khz 16 bit transmissions.
This includes 48khz 16 bit PCM stereo audio and Dolby Digital compressed audio up to and including 48khz DTS.
Whether or not the windows drivers are capable of the dolby passthrough, i dunno, I've never booted windows on mine. Linux (with ALSA drivers) surely can.
Some audio codec chips are capable of more rates. IEC60958 and it's extensions allow for 32khz, 44.1khz and 96khz in addition to the AC97-mandated 48khz. 18 and 24 bit resolutions are also allowed.
If you intend to build a system for use as a home-theater PC, i highly recommend finding a motherboard with a codec that will at least do 44.1khz. Resampling the audio to 48khz can do horrible things to it. 32khz is only needed for some videos you might download from the internet, some VCDs, etc. You'd already know if you needed 96khz.
Your games are 5.1 but they are not encoding Dolby surround on the fly, so the digital connector is only going to get you 2 channels unless you are watching a DVD or something.
The exception is nForce2 SoundStorm boards, which have an on-the-fly dolby digital encoder.
Dolby is starting to license out their real-time encoder, so it may be possible in the future to buy a piece of software that will push your 6 channel game audio through your digital output.
This is why most surround receivers have a multi-channel input. You're just going to have to get a bunch of cables and run analog.
I also highly recommend that you invest in ground loop isolators.
Since your computer has a three-pronged power plug, it has it's own route to earth ground. Most stereo equipment does not.
When you plug the analog audio output from your computer into your home stereo receiver, in most cases you will hear a 60hz hum on the speakers. This is a harmless (but annoying) tone generated by the multiple paths to ground in your electrical connections.
I've had good experiences with RCA type ground loop isolators intended for car audio use. This has RCA connectors just like your stereo. You'll plug the isolator into the stereo and the computer into the isolator using normal audio cables.
I've had good experiences with Scosche ESO34 ground loop isolators. I've paid about $10/ea for them on ebay. You may pay as much as $15 or $20 for them at car audio specialty stores. Sometimes you can get them cheaper, especially if you're buying more than one of them.
Other RCA type ground isolators probably work just as well. I actually have a box of half a dozen of some other brand that i haven't tried yet, that i paid about $2/ea for.
Some come with brown wires dangling out of them, for earth ground. Personally i wouldn't connect them to anything.
Some of the nicer sound cards - most of the Audigy line for example - has on-card ground isolation, and won't need an outboard isolator. Motherboard audio almost certainly does not have ground isolation.

K8T Neo-FSR Audio Port Question

I recently purchased and installed a K8T Neo-FSR. So far, I've been very happy with the board, but I do have a question about it's audio capabilities that I thought you folks might be able to assist with. I currently have only three ports to my onboard audio: Line-In, Line-Out, and Microphone. I would like to utilize more than two speakers, but don't know how to go about doing this. I was looking at the S-Bracket (K31-3012001-A11) accessory, but I'm not even sure if it's compatible with my board, (the connector in the PC Club picture doesn't look like it would go into anything I can see on the board). Is there something I can get to add these ports if the S-Bracket PC Club offers is not the solution? I've searched this board and a few others and haven't been able to find anything on this subject. Thanks, in advance, for any help/reccomendations you folks can offer.

...you'll have to refer to the manual for jumper settings to change those three connections to "surround" sound...
...what do you mean by more than two speakers?..my powered speakers (nothing special) have Left, Right and Subwoofer...you can also get a mini-plug to RCA cord and plug into your home stereo (using the green connection on the computer, no jumper modification > line in or auxilliary on the stereo)...

Audio output changed to 'Digital Out' and speakers don't work! Please help!

I'm not exactly sure what's happened, but after starting up my macbook pro, my speakers/audio haven't worked.
The volume control in the menu bar is inactive (looks light grey) and in the Sound menu, I have no option for output devices except for 'Digital Out' - there is no other option for 'external speakers' (as per usual) or anything!
I can plug earphones in, and sound comes out fine... I don't know what may have happened, but I'm really worried - I use my MBP for home & work; I need my speakers to work!!
If anyone can offer any advice, I'd be really grateful. Thank you in advance.

Talked to Tech Support about this when my machine locked up in this same fashion. There's a little "door" inside the headphone jack that can get stuck in the open position and keep the audio from switching back to the internal speakers / stuck in the digital (optical) output position...
The solution: the iPick... It's a toothpick, but if you use it to poke around inside the headphone jack until the little door gets unstuck, it becomes an iPick, and a box of them are very expensive, but they come in lovely colors and are very intuitive to use...
I'm not kidding... Stick a toothpick (or other non-conductive small stick) in the headphone jack and joog it around until it releases the little door...

2009 Mac Pro no audio out from Line Out and/or Digital Out.

Hey guys, I recently bought a new tv which has an optical input and thought I'd buy an optical cable to connect it to my Mac Pro's (4.1 model 2009 I believe) digital out port which I have never used before .
The issue I'm facing since is that I can't get out from my mac pro to my tv. I also bought a cable to direct sound from my mac pro's line out, to my tv's red/white stero audio ports.That didn't work either.
When I select Digital out as the default audio output in Sound preferences the OS says that there are not default audio controls for that device and the sound icon in the menu bar is greyed out while when I switch to line out output I can control volume but no audio is coming from my TV.
I've been searching on forums and didn't find any relevant answer so if someone knows what may cause this that'd be really helpful.
*ALSO: I've got windows 8 instaleld on my mac pro as well. The digital out doesn't work there as well although the line out does send sound to the TV.
** I also have soundflower installed and perian although I don't think any of them would mess things up like that.
Do you think this is a problem with my Mac or is this a common Mavericks issue (sorry forgot to mention I'm on 10.9.2)
Many Thanks,
Thanos.

When I select Digital out as the default audio output in Sound preferences the OS says that there are not default audio controls for that device and the sound icon in the menu bar is greyed out
That's normal. Is the correct audio input selected on the TV?

PSU for K8T Neo-FIS2R

What model of PSU has its cooling fans which can be controlled from PWFAN1 and PWFAN2 on the K8T Neo-FIS2R motherboard?
Kaz

Sorry but there is no real specific one out there that I have ever seen. Most of the Bios options you see have been available since forever with Via Chipsetted boards. However DOT is specific to MSI which is Dynamic Overclocking technolodies. DOT can automatically overclock your voard depending one what your doing. I recommend staying away from it as it can cause as many issues as anything in your rig. And then there is Cool and Quiet which is an AMD 64 Bit CPU specific option to downclock the multipliers for the CPU during Idle Times to save energy and keep the CPU cool. Again it is not really needed.
The rest of the stuff you can use google to find individually or by searching for Award Bios's or Via Chipset Bios settings.
These are way to much for any one person to post a complete guide to here as all the info is readily available elsewhere.

M-Audio Studiophile AV 40 monitors with imac optical digital out

I'm looking to purchase these monitors for my imac or ones very similar to them and was wondering how I go about hooking them up to the imac. I've read that I would have to use a mini-TOSLink cable to use the optical digital out, but how do I go from that to the RCA on the back of the monitors? Do they make a mini-TOSLink cable to RCA cable? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

aberrant_soul wrote:
I've read that I would have to use a mini-TOSLink cable to use the optical digital out,
but how do I go from that to the RCA on the back of the monitors?
No, the AV 40 inputs are line-level analog RCA; they 'don't understand' digital audio,
and the conversion requires more than a cable -- you'd need an D-to-A converter.
You could run an analog signal to the monitors with just a cheap miniplug-to-RCA
(analog) adaptor from Radio Shack; but if you want to use the iMac's digital output,
you'll need some sort of external digital-to-analog conversion hardware.
I don't know of any inexpensive stand-alone TOSLINK-to-analog converters, but
there are many USB-to-audio products that would allow you to feed digital audio
from the iMac to the AV 40's -- but through a USB port, rather than TOSLINK.
Search for "USB audio" on amazon.com and/or newegg.com.
Looby

Only audio output is Digital Out

My MBP has been connected to an external monitor and speakers for about a week (not unusual) and I just disconnected it and am using once again as a laptop. I noticed however, I can't adjust the volume, nothing comes out of the speakers and the only audio output device is Digital Out, no speakers.
How can I fix this?

David Allen4 wrote:
Have you checked out?
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=10792408&#10792408
Thanks for this. I had this issue with my MBP for the first time today and that forum thread helped out.
Jordan

Ram choice for K8T Neo FISR2 Motherboard

Can anyone tell me if this particular model of ram is compatible with the k8t neo fisr2 motherboard?
http://www.crucial.com/store/MPartspecs.Asp?mtbpoid=AC1B73A7A5CA7304&WSMD=MS%2D6702+%28K8T+Neo%2DFIS2R%29&WSPN=CT6464Z40B
according to crucial it is compatible with the mobo, but i don't see it on the msi vendor approved list for the mobo. I did purchase it, however for the new computer that i am building, comp powers up fine, but no signal is getting to my monitor. Do you think if the ram is not compatible and is not working, then the new machine won't boot properly, hence no signal to monitor?
i'm trying to rule out/in the memory ram as the culprit for my new comp's problems

Well first you have not posted your specs so it's a bit hard to determine if the problem could be somewhere else. Please add yoiur specs to your signature.
Second I am assuming that you don't have any other RAM you can try so here are a couple things to check;
Put in a single stick of RAM and see if it comes up, if not then try another stick.
Check and see what is happening on the D-Bracket LED's.
Double check to see that both the 4 and 20 pin power connections are plugged into the Motherboard and see if your video card requires power through a molex connector. If so make sure it has a power Supply line plugged in.
Reset the Bios with the onboard jumper. Caution, make sure you remove power before you do that step. You may also have to remove the RAM when you reset.

My MacBook Pro has no audio. Sounds preferences showing output is Optical digital-out port. How do I change this to built-in speakers?

My MacBook Pro has no audio. Sounds preferences showing output is Optical digital-out port. How do I change this to built-in speakers?

I experienced this same problem yesterday on my MacBook Pro, still searching for a solution, several other posts here indicate people have been experiencing this since at lease 2007. I have yet to find a clear solution.
It appears that occasionally inserting headphone causes this, it turns on the Optical digital-out port feature (red light glows inside the headphone port) and takes away the internal speakers option. Restarting did not restore it, but for some reason after sitting asleep overnight the sound started working again and the internal speaker option return in the Sound - Output Window, and the Optical Digital-out option went away.
Here is another post with some ideas on this
https://discussions.apple.com/message/4160477#4160477

Digital video capture and the K8T Neo

I was wondering if anyone has had any luck capturing digital video with a machine based on this motherboard. I've tried using various programs, including Adobe Premiere Pro, Scenalyzer, DVIO, and Movie Maker. Regardless of what I use, I end up with enough dropped frames to make the video very choppy in places, especially if I try to capture type-2 (video for Windows) DV, as Premiere Pro requires for editing.
Here's my setup:
MSI K8T Neo
AMD Athlon-64 3400+
2 X 512 MB KingMax PC-3200 RAM
Hercules RADEON 9800 Pro graphics
1 X Maxtor 60 GB Ultra ATA hard drive (model 5T060H6)
2 X Maxtor 250 GB SATA hard drives (model 7Y250M0)
Plextor 708-A DVD+/-RW
I've tried the following configurations of hard drives with no success:
500 GB RAID0 array on Via controller, 60 GB drive on tertiary IDE, running from one drive and capturing to the other
250 GB drive on Via controller, 250 GB drive on Promise controller, 60 GB drive on secondary IDE, tried capturing to each
I've run some tests of disk write speeds, and they seem more than adequate for video capture (approximately 50 MB/s write for the SATA drives, 25 MB/s for the Ultra ATA drive).
I've read that there were issues with PCI bus throughput with slightly older Via chipsets, and that there have generally been issues with Via ATA controllers.
So, has anyone successfully used this motherboard to capture digital video? What did you have to do to prevent frame drop?
Thanks in advance for any advice...

I was wondering if anyone has had any luck capturing digital video with a machine based on this motherboard. I've tried using various programs, including Adobe Premiere Pro, Scenalyzer, DVIO, and Movie Maker. Regardless of what I use, I end up with enough dropped frames to make the video very choppy in places, especially if I try to capture type-2 (video for Windows) DV, as Premiere Pro requires for editing.
Here's my setup:
MSI K8T Neo
AMD Athlon-64 3400+
2 X 512 MB KingMax PC-3200 RAM
Hercules RADEON 9800 Pro graphics
1 X Maxtor 60 GB Ultra ATA hard drive (model 5T060H6)
2 X Maxtor 250 GB SATA hard drives (model 7Y250M0)
Plextor 708-A DVD+/-RW
I've tried the following configurations of hard drives with no success:
500 GB RAID0 array on Via controller, 60 GB drive on tertiary IDE, running from one drive and capturing to the other
250 GB drive on Via controller, 250 GB drive on Promise controller, 60 GB drive on secondary IDE, tried capturing to each
I've run some tests of disk write speeds, and they seem more than adequate for video capture (approximately 50 MB/s write for the SATA drives, 25 MB/s for the Ultra ATA drive).
I've read that there were issues with PCI bus throughput with slightly older Via chipsets, and that there have generally been issues with Via ATA controllers.
So, has anyone successfully used this motherboard to capture digital video? What did you have to do to prevent frame drop?
Thanks in advance for any advice...

TOSLINK/SPDIF optical digital out problem

Dunno what the problem is here. I've used a mini-Toslink adapter and cable to successfully send a digital signal to my amplifier with my Macbook Pro and a previous iMac G5 iSight, but recently failed to do the same with my new 24" iMac. The red light and the Sound preferences suggest that the digital output is working, but no sound comes out. The same setup works fine with my MBP's digital output, so I can't explain the problem on the iMac.
Does anyone know of any other ways to test or verify that the digital output is working? Perhaps there is another way to turn the digital output on/off? I'm hoping this is a software issue ...
Thanks.

I'm having a similar problem / issue with the digital outs...
I'm sending a digital signal via a mini-TOSlink adaptor to my MOTU 828mkII ADAT IN... first problem is that unless I set the MOTU's clock to ADAT IN... (and not use it's only internal clock) then I get digital noise when I playback anything on my iMac... since there is no way to set the iMac clock in Audio Midi Setup to External... it's greyed out.
The larger issue is that playback works fine as long as the Audio driver is being used... i.e. iTunes playiing something back. When I stop any audio playback... about 30 seconds later, the MOTU sync light starts flashing as it's NOT receiving a sync signal from the iMac anylonger. Then if I start playback again it takes about 2-3 seconds for the playback to sound. Totally unacceptable...
I noticed a few things... first off... I also send a signal from my MOTU BACK to my iMac through the iMac's digital IN. With the Digital Output on the iMac, plugging in the TOSLINK cable will automatically change the OUTPUT in Audio Midi Setup to Digital Out... when plugging in the 2nd cable to Digital In, Audio Midi Setup DOES NOT change to Digital In unless you start audio playback, and that's where the 2-3 seconds lag comes in. When you actually hear the playback, if Audio Midi Setup is open... you can see the INPUT switch from Line In to Digital In... and if you stop playback, you can see the Digital In go BACK to Line In about 30 secs later... which should NOT be happening... although technically the Digital in should have NO effect on the Digital Out here anyway... and in truth it doesn't... taking the Digital In out of the equation totally - I still see the same issues... just find it interesting that this is happening.
Anyhow, I have no advice to help you out rwcoch... I wish I did... this is ridiculous! I'm going to search a bit more and see if anyone else has anything remotely similar...
Can anyone else try to replicate my issue? Try sending a digital signal to another sound card... ?
Thanks

Analog audio unavailable - only digital out

Hello, I'm having a problem where my audio isn't functioning. Only digital out. I didn't even know my macbook had digital out. When I look in the headphone jack there is a red lazer beam shooting out. I don't want lazers. I want an analogue signal. Thanks.

Hopefully one of these steps should solve the problem.
1. System Preference > Sound > Output > Internal Speakers
    Highlight Internal Speakers / Headphones
    Make sure Mute is not enabled.
2. Reset PRAM. http://support.apple.com/kb/PH4405
3. Reset SMC.     http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
    Choose the method for:
    "Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".
4. Applications > Utilities > Audio MIDI Setup
    Audio Devices window
    Side Bar
    Click the Built-in Output.
    Under Mute any of the boxes checked? If so uncheck it.
5. Option click the speaker icon in the Finder menu bar, select Internal Speakers.
Best.

K8T Neo 2 - digital out (SPDIF) for audio possible?

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