K8T Neo Series - no power

PLEASE HELP if anyone has had a problem like this.
My computer is fitted with the above mainboard and has been working fine for 15 months.  Yesterday it had been on for about 2 hours and was in screensaver mode with no programs running.  I moved the mouse and saw the desktop for a few seconds and the screen went black with no power from the PC.
I tried to restart but the system was completely dead.  Do these symptons suggest a mainboard problem?  Can anybody in the forum advise on how I can diagnose the problem and pinpoint the defective hardware?
Any advice or tips greatly appreciated.
TerryC

Yes, like TS said...try a working power supply and see if you system starts. Or you can bring your pwr supply to a place that fixes computers, they usually will test it for you for nothing. Or you can buy a tester.  Definitly don't test the power supply by putting it into another machine, cuz if it is bad it could mess up the other machine. If the machine doesnt work with a new power supply, mostly likely the mainboard could have been fried due to the blown pwr supply. Dont buy a cheap power supply next time; brands to go with are Sparkle, Antec, enermax, Fortron, zalman...

Similar Messages

  • K8T Neo Series JUSB connecting

    Hello,
    While cleaning op my case, and hiding all cabled to optimize my airflow I accidentally ripped out the connectors of the 2nd JUSB connector on my MSI K8T Neo series Motherboard. I first thougt It was made out of 1 connector, but unfortunatly they were about 10 tiny connectors.
    that JUSB connector is for my front-side USB 2.0 connectors.
    I know how to reconnect them, but I don't know in which order.
    They are all different colors and are labled:
    2x 'GND' each in an other color, 2x 'Power' each in an other color, ....
    I checked my motherboard's  "quick user's guide", about those JUSB connectors, where they gice the correct oreder. My Problem is that the lables in the Manual aren't the same as the labels on the tiny connectors.
    Does anyone has the correct order, maybe in color, so that I can reconnect them in a proper way?
    Thank you very much,
    Hans.

    ...look here...scroll down one post...

  • Big pb with k8T neo that cant' power up

    Hello, my new K8T neo won't power up, fans turn for a seconde then everything stops ....
    the green led flash every 2 sec
    It start without the proc... (but the proc is good)
    Here my config :
    K8T neo
    Athlon 64 3200 +
    1Go ram samsung
    Geforce 4 Ti 4200
    I see on another forum that it could be an incompatibility with the graphic card !
    If anyone could help me. thanks a lot
    PS: sorry for my poor english

    Quote
    Originally posted by $post[username]
    $post[Hello, my new K8T neo won't power up, fans turn for a seconde then everything stops ....
    the green led flash every 2 sec
    It start without the proc... (but the proc is good)
    Here my config :]
    Hi
    welcome
    The power led flashing is the power protection system, to reset take power cable out for 5 secs, then replace and re start. If it continues to do this, there is someting shorting, or not connected. The 4 pin square CPU power supply is connected to mobo.?  Are all the stand off posts on the mobo lined up with the shielded holes in mobo - no extra ones fitted.
    Other things it could be are PSU, the board needs over 18amps on the +12v line to boot, what are the amps on the 3.3v, the +5v, and the +12v lines, get them from label on side of PSU.
    Could be several other things, like Heatsink not sitting on CPU properly, or a bent pin, loose wire or screw on mobo, etc.
    cheers
    jocko

  • Does K8T Neo Series SATA ll?

    I have problems with my new Samsung SP 200 4c which my mobo does not find.
    I belive I have to invest in a new mobo which supports Sata - generation 2 (300 instead ogf 150 transfer rate)
    Which mobo to buy? (Socket 754)

    Thank you, blazing storm. After a week of searching for solutions I found
    it on Samsungs HDD support site, where the solution was to use a jumper
    to reset the speed from 3,0 Gb/s to 1,5 Gb/s.  Because my chipset VT 8237
    did'nt support the new HDD's software to run at 1,5 if my mobo did'nt support
    3,0 Gb/s. (MSI K8T Neo serie Socket 754)
    See also: http://www.samsung.com/Products/HardDiskDrive/support/faqs/faqs_20050727_0000180403.htm

  • Msi K8t Neo Series+hard Disk ??

    i have a big problem
    this is my config
    msi k8t neo series
    athlon 64 3000+
    512 DDR
    ide 1 master hardisk 40 Go
    ide 1 slave nothing
    ide 2 master dvdrw recorder
    ide 2 slave hard disk 20 Go
    so i want to connect a 3rd hard disk to ide 1 slave but then i connect the disk (Maxtor diamondmax plus 80 Gb ATA 133 normaly working on another PC) no hard disk are detected,  all others drive install in ide 2 are also not detected i have this
    ide 1 master hardisk 40 Go
    ide 1 nothing
    ide 2 nothing
    ide 2 nothing
    if i connect only this 80 gb hard disk i have nothing detected
    ide 1 nothing
    ide 1 nothing
    ide 2 nothing
    ide 2 nothing
    so what happen????
    please help me, i have even update bios...
    (exccus eme for my littlt english, ia m french, and i need help

    check the jumper on the c drive
    my bet its a wd in stand alone not master
     Moan Guide
    list full hardware and psu max amps as well

  • K8T Neo: Problem at power-on...

    Hello!
    Somehow I experience a strange startup-problem ... and I could really need some advice to resolve this issue as I'm out of ideas.
    Last weekend I completely disassembled my rig for the annual "spring-time maintenance". I cleaned out dust, I cleaned the inside and outside of the case and I replaced my DVD-ROM and CD-RW drive with a LG DVD+/-R(W)/RAM drive. After everything was put together again I powered up my system - and it started to act strange.
    Symptom: At power-on the system hangs at "Early Chipset Init" (D-Bracket 1-4: GRRR) and keeps on self-resetting. Several seconds (10-30) later the system starts to POST as expected and runs smoothly until ... power down.
    During the night the system is completely disconnected from the power as it drains a lot of juice in stand-by (~12W for the rig + ~18W for several other external components like scanner, audio, ...).
    What I've done so far to track down the error:
    - Reseated power connectors. Nope - problem persists.
    - Pulled all unnecessary components (just MoBo, CPU, RAM, GFX-card, Keyb). Nope - same prob.
    - Pulled all memory sticks, left only one in the slot (and tried every other one). Nope - same prob.
    - Cleared CMOS - Nope - same prob.
    - Ran memtest86+. Showed no errors after 10+ passes.
    Now I'm out of ideas ... except for the power-on problem the system runs just fine as before. No crashes, no malfunctions, no nothing.
    Technical Data:
    MSI K8T Neo FSR (BIOS 2.0)
    AMD Athlon 64 3000+ (Clawhammer Core)
    Zalman CNPS7000B CPU-Cooler
    3x 512MB Kingston CL2.5 PC400 DDR-RAM (@DDR333 - 3 sticks = DDR333 only!)
    NVIDIA GeForce 6600GT AGP (Power Connector is plugged in)
    Highpoint HPT370A IDE Controller (PCI 3)
    Hauppauge WinTV PCI FM (PCI 5)
    Seagate 80GB SATA - Operating system
    Hitachi 160GB - OnBoard Pri IDE, Master
    LG 4167B - OnBoard Pri IDE, Slave
    Maxtor 200GB - HPT370A Pri IDE, Master
    Seagate 400GB - HPT370A Pri IDE, Slave
    Maxtor 80GB - HPT370A, Sec IDE, Master
    Tagan TG480-U01 480W PSU (3.3V@28A, 5V@48A, 12V@28A)
    As I have a Wattmeter at my avail: After power-on and boot-up the system "sucks" ~315W (rig + monitor). If I put load on the system (CPU at full clock, GeForce displaying 3D) it drains ~390W.
    As mentioned above I never had any issues with the system.
    Does anyone have a suggestion how to resolve the rather annoying power-on problem ?!?
    Thanks,
    Jochen

    Quote from: Tiresmoke on 06-April-06, 20:09:53
    Did you checl and replace the CMos Battery? You may need to do a complete Bios Clear and start fresh there as well.
    Also as the Optical drives changed did you try removing them one at a time and see if the system acts noirmally then?
    Hello, Tiresmoke!
    . I unplugged the PSU from the wall socket and removed the battery while clearing the CMOS. The CMOS Battery is OK - ~3.34V (reading from a Voltmeter - matches with the display at PC Health Status).
    . I already took out the LG DVD-RAM drive and put the old optical drives back in. Even in its old "original" configuration the aforementioned problem persists.
    . I already reseated the CPU and renewed the thermal compound.
    However, I even get the "Early chipset" startup when the system is bareboned ... CPU + 1 memstick (doesn't matter which one out of the three I plug in) + Keyb + GFX. D-Bracket shows "Early Chipset Init", the boards goes through several reset-loops and fires up fine.
    BTW: Maybe this will give some clue ...
    . When I do a warm reset (reboot triggered by OS) the board restarts fine - Reset, POST, Boot.
    . When I shutdown and disconnect power from the PSU, lets say for about 5 minutes, then reconnect it and power-on the "Early chipset init" shows up.
    Are there any chances that the PSU is actually causing the problem although this particular problem never showed up before the "spring-cleaning"?
    Thanks,
    Jochen

  • K8T Neo FSR Unusual Power Supply Problem

    Hi folks! I've been using my Neo mobo for a couple years now. Recently I noticed the 3.3V line was dropping. It steadily over a week's time went from 3.3 to 2.6. At 2.6 I was getting constant artifacts and instability. Thinking of course that it was the power supply's fault, I replaced it. This one lasted two months, but just like the other, started off fine, then 3.3 slowly dropped to 2.6.
    Is there anyway this can be something other than the power supply? I'm utterly confused; two power supplys shouldn't die slowy on the exact same line.
    Thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
    Thx!
    Edit:
    Realized y'all need more info :P
    athlon 64 3000+
    radeon 9800pro
    two harddrives
    one optical
    sound blaster audigy
    K8T Neo FSR mobo
    1st PSU: Aspire 550W, 34A on 12v and 28A on 3.3v
    2nd PSU: Generic 500W, 28A on 12v and 26A on 3.3v
    Edit 2: Just a note, ALL other voltages were stable. It was ONLY the 3.3v line that droped.

    Quote from: Bas on 30-January-06, 05:16:17
    The onlything that could cause that is bad-connection between the connectors....ergo like not pushed in far enough....
    (could be because of fluids too, but I find that rather unlikely)
    Both those cases seem unlikely...I know for a fact there were no fluids, and I'm 99.9% sure the cable was inserted properly. Doesn't it mean something that it was ONLY the 3.3v cables that were burned?
    BTW, what makes you think it's the video card? Since it's getting power from a molex that only has 5v and 12v lines, why would it need 3.3?

  • IDE3 on a K8t Neo series board

    ok, My board has an IDE3 connector ont eh MB.  Does this mean I can hook up another 2 drives (primary and secondary on it).  I have all the latest drivers for this board, but for some reason can't get a 120gig WD driver to work and a Seagate 80 gig to work (no matter if they are master, slave, or standalone).  I'm 99.9% suret hey are ata133 capable.  How do I get the computer to see these two drives on the IDE3 controller.  OH, and IDE1 and IDE2 are fill.  IDE1 has two hard drives and IDE2 has 2 dvd burners.  My specs for my computer should show in my sig.  Thanks.

    Hey guys, thanks a lot.  I realized that I had a bad drive in the primary IDE3 connector.  This was bringing up a blue screen error when xp started up.  I also think I had bad and/or incorrect drivers.  But I now have 2 120gigs on the IDE3, non-raid, and it seems to work out really well.  I've never gotten into raiding drives.  I think I will use these 2 as practice. Anyways thanks for the info.
    Oh, and outta curiousity... I have a spare amd 3000+ 754 chipset processor.  I also have a PCI-e 6600gt....  Is the k8n neo3-F board worth getting if I don't want to buy another processor?  Or should I just save the cash and go with a 939 chipset?

  • K8T Neo Series

    je ne parle pas anglais, j'ai un probleme avec ma carte mere, impossible d'installer windows sur un disque dur s ata avec disquette driver en fonction F6 lors de l'installation ou le driver fonctionne mais impossible de copier les fichiers neccessaires pour finir l'installation.
    Tets avec windows pro et windows x 64 avec les drivers les plus recent trouvé.
    si quelqu un peut me repondre merci beaucoup .

    assurez-vous que vous avoir le sata permis dans le bios êtes vous employant les conducteurs qui sont venus avec la commande dure ?

  • K8T Neo and Kingmax Problems!!!!

    Hi
    Ok so basically ive got a K8T Neo Series K8T800 with a 64bit 3200+.
    When I bought it came with 2x 256 Mb Sticks of PC2700 I think DDR-333.
    Recently I bought 2x 512 sticks of Kingston Kingmax DDR-400 (MPXC22D-38KT3R)
    It wont boot at all with them in it, the monitor doesn’t even get a signal.
    Ive read the manual countless times and can’t find anything saying its incompatible.
    I Have Tried using both sticks by them selves with no difference.
    The ram is in slot 1 (I have tried all three just in case I was doing something wrong
    I Have tried the Ram in another Computer and it worked great.
    The Ram IS on the tested memory list Under Test Reports
    If you could help me it would be greatly appreciated.
    Cheers,
    Zysen,

    You may have Bios Timing issues. Timing in Bios for that RAM is 2.5,4,4,8 or you can set to auto. VDIMM should be auto and you may have to try using sockets 1 and 3 as mine gave issues in sockets 1 and 2.
    You may also have to do a Bios reset.

  • K8T Neo-F (ver. 2.0) Unknown CPU Problem!

    Hi all,
    I've a really big problem with two mainboard K8T NEO-F (MS-6702 VER 2.0). I'm trying to build two pcs with these boards and two AMD Sempron64 2800+ Sock754.
    The problem is that when I turn the system on, immediately after all post messages like SATA controller diagnose, Realtek network boot, checking NVRAM, I get this message:
    "Warning unknow CPU type"
    "System halted"
    Then I can't even reboot pressing CTRL+ALT+DEL or getting into bios setup pressing DEL. The system is frozen and I can't reboot.
    I've tried to flash the bios using the recovery feature (CTRL+HOME and floppy disk with bios inserted), it starts flashing and than when I get those four beeps, I rebooted and I get the "system halted" message again.
    I saw that the latest bios for K8T NEO Series is NOT for version 2.0 like these two ones that I've got.
    What can I do? Please someone help me...
    Regards,
    Paolo

    Thanks to everyone who replied...
    The mainboard is not K8T Neo-V it's K8T Neo-F v2.0 infact on the PCB it's exactly signed MS-6702 VER 2.0.
    I really can't update the bios since I can't even boot up my system. The only way to flash the bios seems to be trying to find the correct bios for this mainboard and flash it through the bios recovery procedure (pressing CTRL+HOME during boot).
    Otherwise I've to find some other old CPU that is being supported by this mainboard, but this seems quite incredible to me! In also from my local distributors, new sock754 CPU are just Sempron64 ...
    Someone could help me finding a bios update for Sempron64 support for this mainboard?
    Regards,
    Paolo

  • MSI K8t NEO + Audigy Boot Problem only when power is unplugged on the PSU

    I ran into a really weird problem today.
    I switched the ps off by reaching back and pressing the button. I repress the button to power on the ps, then I click on the button in the fron of the case to power up the machine. System keeps rebooting itself every 1 sec. Bracket shows 4 red lights. In the manual, it says it means bad cpu. I remove the audigy and it boots fine. I install the audigy, 4 red lights.
    So, This time instead of turning the puter off by using the button on ps. I used the button on the case by holding it down for 5 seconds. I reboot and puter boots normally.
    So the problem is, if i turn the puter off by using the button on the PS and with audigy in the syste. Nothing on screen, and puter keeps rebooting itself every one second. Solution is to turn the puter off by using the button on the case.
    Has anyone ran into this problem? I have never had this kind of problem. It is really weird. Any feedback is apreciated.
    Oh and it is only with audigy. I tested this with original live, and also other PCI cards like nic, and another cheap sound card. Non of these cards showed this problem.

    Cavemankr!
    I never knew you could shut down the computer by holding down the start button for 5 seconds.... well I've never really had the need to...until I got this K8T Neo job. I wondered why it wouldn't turn off when I just pushed it. I've been using the PSU switch with these problems.
    Yep! She booted right up. Audigy back in action. I also realized I had my PC hooked straight in the wall (while checking to see if my surge protector was working this weekend), so turning off the surge protector wasn't cutting power to the cheapo PSU.
    So put me in your camp!
    I'll just plug the PC straight into the UPS and keep power fed to the Enermax. I hope that was the cause of my keyboard/mouse cold boot problem also.
    I'll assume the cheapo PSU will behave similarly. I don't really want to go through the swap again.  
    I wonder why that happens!
    Buddy
    Vor uns liegt ein weites tal
    Die sonne scheint mit glitzerstrahl

  • MSI K8T Neo-FIS2R won't power-up

    My MSI K8T Neo-FIS2R won't power up when I switch it on. All that happens is the fans "jolt" a few millimeters and that's it  
    Using an X-Pro 460w which does work as I have tested it on this PC  
    Any help would be greatly appreciated  

    I think I have found out the problem  
    Using my old Enermax (350) I was able to boot up the AMD 64 2800 every time but the PSU made this weird electrical sound - I think because it was being overloaded (I think as it doesn't make this sound when used with my XP 1800). I then reverted back to my new X-Pro (460w) and after a few attempts I managed to get the ram module and CPU powered... slowly adding more fans it became harder to boot and eventually the GPU fan wouldn't run once I plugged another fan in... I'm guessing this is because my PSU is too weak to power the juice guzzling AMD  
    I'll need to break the bank once again I suppose  

  • My Unofficial K8t Neo Guide

    Disclaimer: You try any and all troubleshooting at YOUR OWN RISK!!
    Here is my unofficial guide to the K8t Neo fisr2 If you Like It give it a thumbs up so it will stick out. I will warn you it is long and I will edit off and on.
    to add as needed.
    first I'll start off with components,
    CASE..you will need an atx case with good cooling a few extra fans like a blowhole at the top can help cooling, also bundle cables and power leads
    so that they don't interfere with airflow.
    MOTHERBOARD,...This is based on the K8TNEO series, when you attach it to your case make sure that is is mounted to risers to keep it from contacting case, they are usually small brass pins, also make sure that all the mounting screw are secure and in place, this will prevent the PCB from flexing and cracking as you install components, there should be around 9 or so screws, that usually go into the riser pins or raised case mounting points,don't forget to use those fiber or plastic insulated washers. These should be the only case contact point to the mobo other then the back plate with all the usb, net jacks etc..
    Also use all of the mount points you can..if not you can crack mobo putting in cards etc...
    CPU...Athlon64 processor2800+, 3000+, 3200+, or a 3400+, all 754 pin chips...k8neo CAN NOT USE FX chips or Opterons. 3200,&3000 are basically the same chip, same clockspeed of 2.0 ghz but the l2 cache is different 3200 1mb...3000 512k, you may not notice the difference in many applications but will see 2~10% diff in benchmark testing, the 3000 is usually about $75 cheaper
    the 2800 is a newer model an a good way to get into 64bit without high cost.
    PSU.... one of the most overlooked and most important component,
    that old 300 watter you have from your old duron 800 don't even try.PSU's have caused a lot of trouble with a64 systems, they use a lot of power Get a good name brand psu if you can, and make sure it is at least 400 watts and has at the minimum of 20a on 12v, also look at combined total wattage
    the psu must have a 20 pin connector and a 4  Pin( Square) Connector, and there is Only 1, Called the+12V 4 Pin Processor Connector.
    some of the recommended brands are enermax,and antec.
    Here is the reason most problems are the psu
    amd64 uses 12v power, Intel chips used a lot of 5v power.
    so until now most big psu's pushed 5 v not 12v
    almost everything in your computer uses 12v except ram (3.3V)
    AMD 64 and motherboard =12a @12V
    so your already at 12A with no fan,s no hd, no CD,no DVD ,no mobo chip-set , no mem, no sound..etc  
    so what happens is your mem gets starved for power and then gives out errors,in your data, which = corrupt sata,or it fails to post. .
    MEMMORY...Another big trouble spot,not just with the MSI board but with Via chip-set, and or the A64 memory controller.
    DDR non ecc- single channel 400 is baseline although slower chips also work, The CPU's memory unit only supports 4 banks total so in order to use three sockets at least two of the memory sticks have to be 1 bank,.one bank or two bank chips look similar so check specs, dual bank chips usually have chips on the back as well. mem should match type and speed. if you run into problems try going into bios and limiting ram to 333.mem should match type and speed.
    (edited out till i find more info [STRIKEOUT] if using two mem sticks it is best to use slots 1 and 3,[/STRIKEOUT])
    edit :ok tiresmoke just replied so have a look. "One thing that often does not get addressed. I had a couple Blue Screens early on. Here is how I fixed it. I run my RAM in sockets 1 and 3. 1 and 2 gave a little instability.Yes I decided to keep mine in slot 1/3 but I did test in 1/2 since I changed Bios. Typically slot 1/3 can slow you down but it did not with mine so best to say that difference RAM will give different symptoms. Try combinations to find what works best for you."
    LOL Keep in mind that Jocko uses 3 sticks of dual bank RAM and according to AMD they only support 4 banks total. Jocko has 6 so you do the math.
    you can check msi's website for compatible ram, but be careful it can be confusing,
    they list by part numbers,
    but some known configurations that work are:
    I would stay away from corsair xms mem right now many people have problems.
    corsair and kingston owners may want to look here
    AMD 3000+ systems...
    BIOS 1.2
    2 x 512 - Corsair CMX DDR400 @2-3-2-5
    2 x 512 - Corsair Twin Pro DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
    2 x 512 - Corsair Value Select DDR400 @ defaults
    1 x 512 - Geil Golden Dragon DDR400 @ 2-3-3-6 (2.7V)
    2 x 512 - Hynix DDR400 @ 2-3-3-6
    2 x 512 - Kingmax DDR433 @ 2.5-3-3-6
    2 x 512 - Kingston DDR400 @ 3-3-3-8
    1 x 512 - Kingston HyperX DDR400 @ (defaults?)
    1 x 512 - Kingston ValueRam (KVR400X64C3A) DDR400? @ (Defaults?)
    2 x 512 - Muskin Level 1 DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
    2 x 512 - Muskin Level 2 DDR433 @ (defaults?)
    2 x 256 + 1 x 512 - Muskin Basic DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-8
    1 x 1024 - OCZ EL DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
    BIOS 1.3b2
    2 x 512 OCZ EL DDR433 @ 2-3-3-7
    AMD 3200+ systems...
    BIOS 1.1
    2 x 512 - Mushkin Level 1 Black DDR433 @ 2.5-3-3-6
    BIOS 1.2
    2 x 512 - Apacer DDR400 @ 3-4-4-8 (2.5v)
    2 x 512 - Corsair Twin X DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
    1 x 1024 - Corsair TwinX DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
    2 x 512 - Crucial DDR400 @ defaults
    2 x 512 - Elixer OEM DDR400 @ defaults
    1 x 1024 - GeIL GoldenDragon DDR400? @ defaults
    2 x 512 - Geil Value Series 512MB DDR 2.5-3-3-6
    2 x 512 - Hynix DDR400 @ 2-3-3-6
    2 x 512 - Kingston HyperX KX DDR433 @ 2-3-3-8
    2 x 512 - Kingston HyperX DDR400 @ (defaults?)
    2 x 512 - Kingston HyperX DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-8
    2 x 512 - Mushkin Level 2 DDR400 @ 2-2-2-5 (2.75V)
    2 x 256 - Mushkin Level 2 DDR400 @ 2-2-2-5
    2 x 256 + 1 x 512 - Muskin Basic DDR400 @ (defaults?)
    2 x 512 - Twinx CLPRO DDR400 @ (defaults?)
    2x512- Pny Verto DDR433 @defualts
    AMD 3400+ systems...
    BIOS 1.2
    2 x 512 - Kingmax (MPXC22D-38KT3R) DDR400 @ defaults
    2 x 512 - Mushkin Level 2 Black DDR433 @ 2-3-2-5
    you may have to email you mem manufacturer and manually set timings and voltages to get your memory working.
    HARD DRIVES......Here you have alot of choices, basically two categories, SATA and PATA(IDE). There are many brands and speeds, IDE drives come in different speeds, such as ata33, ata66, ata 100, ata 133 for hard drives, the 33,100,133, being theoretical maximum transfer rating MB/sec.
    newer ata(IDE)hard drives are ata100 which is ultra 5, and ata133 ,ultra6 is ,
    PIO mode is the standard data transfer mode without the ultra enhancements, the fastest being 16.66 mb/sec. ultra 2 is 33 mb/sec . So when i say my CD,DVD, and DVD are ultra 2 it means they transfer at a maximum of 33 mb/sec, and my Maxtor hardrives are ultra 6 and have a maximum transfer of133 mb/sec. my old zip100 transfers at a max of 16 mb/sec since its in pio mode. Note these are maximum speeds, my hardrive transfers more like 65 mb/sec sustained according to SIS Sandra.
    That is why SATA 150 is such a big deal, vs say a Western digital ata100
    SATA is a different interface all together and can transfers closer to its maximum
    theoretical speed. BUT the pci bus itself is limited to 133 mb/sec so an add-on card
    should never be able to reach over 133, regardless, of SCSI,IDE, or SATA
    so on the k8t neo you have some choices. With the IDE you can use, IDE1,2, or 3
    IDE1&2 are ata100. ) to attach use a 80pin round or flat cable, the first slot goes into the mobo, the middle connector is for a slave or should be left empty, use the end for master, or single drive. you must also setup jumpers for hd or cds.
    The master is primary unit and the slave is secondary unit, for each channel.
    Or use the Cable Select jumper and USUALLY the BIOS will select the drive for you.
    IDE1 & 2 is ata100, or 133 depending on board if using for only 2 drives put them on different channels
    ...ie master on IDE 1, and master on IDE 2 . that way they will have maximum bandwidth. especially for disk to disk copies or burning
    IDE3 RAID is ata133, or can be raid 0 or 1 by the promise chip. 0 being striped for performance,1 being mirrored for safety, mirror only protects hd from failure,not viruses,or corruption for that you need a backup or as i prefer a drive image program such as accronis trueimage..linux compatible.and Norton ghost.you will first have to enable the promise chip in the bios, then you have to load drivers by hitting F6 during windows installation, and insert floppy drive, yes you will need a floppy, at least for initial setup. If you want to set up raid you will have to do that first before loading windows,by hitting ctrl+F  (read quick user's guide Serial ata raid, serial ata) only hd's can use ide3.If you don't have enough IDE slots you can add on pci card with one or two more headers for up to 4 more drives, I added a Maxtor ultra ata133, since i have 5 idehd's and 3 DVD/cds.
    SATA, here you have two choices, use the Promise chip set or the Via. Either one or both can be set to raid0 or 1, see users guide to setup, You will also have to enable them first in bios, and F6 and load floppy drivers to use in windows install, or load drivers in windows if using an existing install. either chip-set can be set for raid, in the manual, opinions are that the Via is faster, but you wont have a HD LED activity indicator light, The promise will have a HD light, but is slightly slower.
    Also note that SATAs don't OC as well as IDE hard drives, they can even crash and loose data.
    always make a backup of your computer, and remember raid 1 does nothing for virus, or contaminated installs.
    SOUND....Here you have a few choices, On board or Card, unfortunately not both, yet.(UPDATE Bios Version 1.5 and above will fix this)... If using a card there have been some issues with Audigy 1 cards, but there may be a cure in this threadhttps://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=46849&sid=( Moved to stickies) audigy2 and 2zs cards work fine as do turtle beach.
    on-board sound is not as high definition and uses some CPU cycles, so a card might be advantageous to gamers.
    REALTEK GIGABIT...Is the on-board Ethernet, you will need to load drivers once in windows, it has caused some problems booting, as it can be set to a boot device as well. you will get a message "failed to boot press any key."..then "ntdlr error"...to fix this you may need to hit the key combination during boot to set it up, it will bring you to a menu, you need to set boot order, i recommend setting it to bios, and you can adjust or disable message and time length it is displayed.
    VIDEO CARDS-  You should install an agp 8x directx9 video card for best performance. Ati has better directx support so is better for gaming, but Nvida has better OpenGL so if you want to do 3d in Linux, you have better luck with Nvida.
    When you set up windows, install via 4-1 drivers first, then the video drivers, check video manufacturer's website for updated drivers. make sure any extra power leads are plugged in. In bios Agp should be  fast write enabled, and
    if you are using 1024 of ram aperture size to 256, but check 3dmark to see which setting is faster.
    BIOS- NO BIOS INSTALLED This is a message that you see during boot up from the promise on-board raid saying that it found no drives attached to its SATA or IDE channels so it's not installed the BIOS.This IS NOT a problem or anything to worry about!
    jumping Bios reset jumper, be careful, make sure power is off.  jump it and return it to the original position. If you power on with jumper in reset position you can erase your bios...requiring a Return to Manufacturer Authorization(RMA)
    I have had no problems using windows updating to the latest bios ,It cured some issues, such as firewire ports, sound blaster audigy1 troubles,tweaked temps displayed,and so on. but be sure to have a backup of original bios disk. I have heard new 1.8 beta bios cures Newcastle temp problems.
    some good settings are.. SMART enabled this will warn you of hard disk failure,System bios cacheble and shadow ram are more for older computers and should be set to disable.boot to os2- disable...memory setting vary by card and some even need to be set manually so check with manufacturer or get familiar with cmos reset jumper.(just be sure to have power off)...plug and play os to disable(more of a win 98 thing) disable serials and parallel ports if you don't need them, as with on-board sound firewire etc. this is just a few pointers the rest is a more personal thing, but i have heard turbo setting causes problems and is best left to fast, and dynamic oc'ing is similar use at your own risk
    USB keyboard don't forget to enable USB in the BIOS. This caused some problems when installing XP. Without USB enabled in BIOS when you come to the "Hit any key to proceed" the install will fail with the ntldr error
    POWER SAVINGS...Having trouble getting fans or case lights to shut off on standby set to S3, then disable apm, and be sure to set a wakeup event..such as wake from usb, or keyboard command. I have agp boot disable, but depends on card.
    Want to know more about bios, and what those settings are? click this link
    http://www.rojakpot.com/(eb1mg5zatgcf5r55lv5no155)/default.aspx?location=9
    CORE CENTER....Another personal choice, I like it and use it a lot, to increase and decrease fsb without going through bios. the NB fan sensor should read 0 unless you plug a fan onto it, personally i have an 80mm antec and it doesn't read it, but i tried a old CPU fan and it worked fine.
    COOL AND QUIET Another personal choice, I don't use it because some people have had there CPUs power down in the middle of games, and such
    (it goes down to 800 MHz) others had small bugs in there system that went away when they disabled it. But some like it and use it a lot. Good for energy savings.
    want to get your boot time down
    start by selecting  OS drive as first in boot sequence, you can always change bios when you want to boot from floppy or CD(which isn't often).disable floppy drive seek
    then clean out your startup folder under rt click explore start button.
    try and get services set to auto down to about 25. defrag your hdrive routinely,
    . ditch wall paper, and get rid of windows startup screen.(msconfig,boot.ini.and check noguiboot). keep your drivers updated
    if you can find it you can use then try bootvis, but microsoft doesn't support it anymore.Programs ..some useful free utilities are listed below, check goggle, until i make links for them.
    SiS Sandrahttp://www.sisoftware.net/, a good all around benchmark,burn in and, info display
    3DMARK.http://www.futuremark.com/download/.Mostly a Video tester, good for checking OC though.
    Microsoft Memory testerms memtester
    +86memtest.http://www.memtest86.com/..and Prime95http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft.htmvery good mem testers, and tests for stability
    spybot search and destroy, http://www.safer-networking.org/index.php?page=homeand
    Lavasoft's ad-aware http://www.lavasoftusa.comgot to have for house cleaning.
    atitool, http://atitool.ocfaq.com/oc ap for ati cards,click find max core let it go for 15min or so,then set back to default, and click find max mem...for 15min or so, and now you have the max you can set your video card too.(but set safety limits before manually setting)
    [STRIKEOUT]mbm5 mbm5 link good alternative temp readings to corecenter.[/STRIKEOUT]
    good program but discontinued.
    OTHER USEFUL PROGRAMS
    Norton utilities, good all around disk and OS utility
    Norton Internet secuirity, or similar firewall and virus protector
    Norton ghost, or other drive image software fantastic for backups
    BF1942...lol just fun
    HOME NETWORKING I will add this part because of additional posing of errors
    dealing with USB Broadband routers...try using on board realtek or other Ethernet connection it will save your sanity.
    well i have a real poor mans router setup for you
    2 Ethernet slots, one for for broadband router and one to share.
    if you only want one other computer, use a crossover cable, otherwise, use a hub or switch(better) and let Internet connection wizard and home networking on your machines work their magic,want a firewall download some software there are even, fairly decent free ones.the speed of the card isn't important because broadband still isn't over 10mb/sec yet, so blow the dust off that card in the closet and put it to work.or if your really brave or really cheap you can try to use the usb input from broadband, and on board ether, or firewire port, to link computers
    Trouble shooting
    for total no boot/post failure
    I know you may know how to build a  computer, and i know this is basic, so bear with me here, but at this point you have to do a methodical by the book check list.
    revision
    A: when you first install your motherboard make sure it does not contact case,
    use all nine mounting points, make sure that your case either has built in risers, or use the small brass standoffs, and don't forget the fiber washers.
    when you installed your CPU you:
    1 ___you properly handle equipment so no static damage can occur, (properly grounded)
    2____.you fully lift the CPU ziff socket arm up, orient the gold triangle marking arrow,pins and it easily dropped into socket, with no bent pins ,
    3 ___ backer plate mounted carefully no missing pieces of the board flying off, ( i have seen people launch capacitors, and the like )
    4 ____obviously you removed the plastic thermal pad cover, and heatsink was evenly locked down, and fully seated, and correctly plugged into mobo cpufan1.
    and you fully removed old thermal pad/grease and applied new artic silver, or new heatsink with plastic on pad,you didn't reuse old paste or pad.
    memory
    5 _____memory stick(not sticks, at this point you just want to get it working, not full blast with a gig of ram etc)is fully seated and properly oriented in slot, and is 184 pin ddr non-registered , non ecc ram , and you have tried different non corsair, non twinmoss, brands that have been known to work. and/ or
    tried to set manually mem speed/voltage for some models of corsair, twinmoss, and kingston)
    6.____ plug in only power switch pins 6,8and power led to jfp1, pins 2,4 and they are turned correctly,
    7. ____your new psu has the 20 pin and square 4 pin power connector plugged in to jpw1 turned right and fully seated. and has  a bare min of 18a on 12v+ rail.
    8 ____your video card is fully seated an locked down,also securely screwed in.
    9 ____your floppy drive cable iss facing right way (pin1 is matched with red stripe)
    10. ____you have ata cables for hd and CD set to master/slave or cs. with hard drive set as master, end of cable.
    11 _____the power plugs are all fully seated, including psu rear plug,floppy ,hd, and CD.
    12. _____keyboard(ps2) and mouse plugged in, monitor plugged into video card,
    13 ______every thing is fully secured in case, side cover is off.
    14 ______CMOS jumper is set 1,2 keep data, all usb stuff is unplugged, except for dbracket.
    power it up, one beep, fans spin, in psu and CPU, and video card,
    you get no bios found error,(promise adapter not finding satas..no worries)
    or hit Del to go into bios, set boot order, and .......
    .........your now at the end of the road, and it should by all means work,
    now what i am after,
    there are no bent pins, on CPU, you reapplied artic silver paste.
    no loose wires,
    properly applied heat sink with fan cooling,
    you have tried different brands of known ,to work in an MSI k8tneo
    ddr ram 1 stick at a tme.
    you have tried different video cards, and in case of higher end card, the external molex power supply as plugged in,
    you have tried different ata hard drives
    you then have tried have set up your SATA drive correctly .
    everything is securely plugged in ..fully seated and oriented the right way?
    what are d-bracket error light, and any beep codes?
    you have tried a different wall outlet, you have changed surge protectors,
    you never hot plugged video cards, hd cables or power etc.
    i know this redundant , and basic , it is not meant to be insulting , it is meant to be a checklist and rule out all basic errors and potential problems
    if your mem bandwidth is slower then 3000..like 2400 this may help
    Received from a user - Slow memory 1T Command fix
    OK, here's what to do. Download the following ftp://ftp.vector.co.jp/pack/win95/hardware/other/wpcrs120.exe extract it, and run InstDD.exe. It'll ask to reboot, you don't need to do it right away, at least I didn't have to. Fire up WPCRSET.exe and do the following. Under startup, click on start, and under device, click enable. Now click add. The bus device and function will be 0,24, and 2. The register and data values will be the 93,08. There we have it! Enjoy everyone. I know I'm much happier now.  
    Here's a graphic to make it easier:
    I will add more by edit, or post as needed but i should post now so it can be put to use.
    I would like to Thank BAS,wonkaboy, Jocko, ethereal, Tiresmoke, Reilly, and the many others whose valued input helps solve problems.

    Quote
    amd 64=12a @12V
    ati 9800=7.5~10.5a @12V (assuming 90~125 watts) a max load,
    a 9600 ir nvida 5200 used far less power
    so your already at 18a with no fan,s no hd, no cd,no dvd ,no mobo chipset , no mem, no sound..etc
    If you exclude the motherboard, memory, etc like you did there, the amd 64 draws 7.2A @ 12V.
    90~125W for an ATI 9800?! [irony]Are you working for a PSU manufacturer or what?[/irony] That's just absurd.  
    Go read this post to get a feel for the actual power consumption: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?postid=297061&sid=#post297061

  • MSI K8T NEO FSR with AMD 64 3200 - Can´t install WIN XP

    Hi.
    I´m writing you because i have a problem with an MSI K8t-Neo FSR.
    The description of my PC:
    MSI K8t-Neo FSR
    AMD 64bits 3200 (640 cache)
    HD 160 SATA Seagate Barracuda
    1gb DDR 400mhz
    Floppy 3 1/2
    CDRW 52x32x52 LG
    Video ATI RADEON 9600 XT
    The problem is the following:
    When I try to install Windows XP, when I press F8 to accept the Terms, it shows me an error message (IO 104 i think) and it hangs up or reboot.
    I tried with another two Proccessors and motherboards (same model obviously) but it didn´t work.
    Could it be a defectuous production serie of that model????
    Or what do you think the problem is????
    Thank you very much for your help.
    I´ll be waiting for your answer!
    Lucas Revale
    PF: I´ve already tried updating the BIOS.

    Thank you all for trying to help me!!!
    I've already tried using only te necesary drivers.
    I´ve also tried another VGA, another HD, another CDRW, another power supply, and an AMD 64 2800+.
    It seems to be that the three motherboards i tried were defectous.
    Does anyone has any other idea?!?!?
    I´d really aprecciate your help!

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