K8TM-ILSR RAM speed problem

I'm using 2x512 Kingmax PC3200 memory in my MSI K8TM-ILSR mobo.  The ram works fine & stable (and is even the EXACT same model listed on the official supported DDR400 list), but I can't get it to run any faster than DDR333/PC2700.  I've tried changing the BIOS "DDR Speed" setting from "AUTO"  to "Limit: 400MHz."  I can get the timings down to 2-3-2-5 stable, but I've also tried many other timing combinations (for example, the slowest).  I've also tried tinkering with the voltage.  Oh, and I have the latest firmware update.
And ideas?  Do you think it's the RAM or the motherboard that is to blame?  From my experience, the mobo is extremely picky about the ram - I had 2x512 Kingmax PC3700 ram that wouldn't even allow my PC to POST, even though they worked beautifully on my friend's ASUS mobo.
So, is there any hope for me running my RAM at DDR400 speeds?

Honestly, I have the 6741 K8TM-ILSR running AMD 64 3200 with fsb set to 215.  In this box I have two 1 GB sticks in that board of:
Corsair XMS Extreme Memory Speed Series, Low Latency 184 Pin 1GB DDR PC-3200 PRO - Retail
I also run the 6701 K8T Neo-FIS2R.  This is essentially the same chipset just a few more options than the other board.  I have two 512 MB sticks in that board of:
OCZ Enhanced Latency Series Platinum Edition 184 Pin 1GB(512MBx2) DDR PC-3200 - Retail
The ILSR is on the 1.4 bios and is as solid as a rock even with the fsb set to 215.  You say to yourself so what.  Well.. The memory of course shows its running at 333 as do various utilities.  However, I am running 2 GB's there and any little things going on between those two chips might slow it slightly for safety.  I had to push them to about 2.75 volts to get the stability, but it is solid.  And, I must say that it runs faster and more reliably than the more expensive "Cadillac" of boards.
The Neo-FIS2R I have spent my life rebooting and changing bios rev, currently at 1.6.  I had changed it to 1.8 and determined I could keep that and have a boat anchor or try plan "B".  Plan "B" just happend to "B" bios rev 1.92B.  As I swore repeadtly at every bios version I spent my time mostly rebooting and trying to find a HAL that would work properly.  I happened to read an article where the tested this board and to get compatibility with the widest variety of memory they used bios rev 1.6.  I pondered this and flashed back to 1.6.  She has been stable, but far from fast.  Yes, it has every thing nice including (for the moderator) a 550 W power supply delivering juice (per spec is another story).
What's my point?  The bigger faster board shows 400 speed and all kinds of other things that says it should be the fastest.  It has never run a cycle over stock speed, quite simply because it crashes every time.  It does run, and I suspect a bios rev might make it right someday, but there you go.  The board showing 333 is actually one of the best I have ever had, little micro-atx woogums that it is.  Oh, I had to juice the ocz ram up to about 2.80 volts to get any stability.
Peace

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    Hey guys - problem 'solved':  
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    Benchmark CDM with sata controller card Lycom PE-115H:
    http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3845/cdmpe115hahci0x00.png
    http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/7549/cdmpe115hahcirand.png
    Speed is much better than before with nvidia chipset 750a SLI controller: sata1 (sata2 whenever it randomly worked):
    http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/505/cdmahci0x0.png
    http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6258/cdmahci0x0sata6contnv64.png
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    A word of caution to anyone who's going to attempt it, though. There are TWO heat sink interfaces between the bottom section (where the motherboard is mounted) and the top dome. Those heat sink surfaces are coated with thermal paste at the factory, but the compound dries out over time, becoming a rubbery membrane between the heat sink surfaces. Once you separate the top and bottom sections, the membrane rips apart, and the firm connection between the heat sink surfaces is permanently gone. It's a bad idea to simply put them back together after you change the RAM module; you won't get a good thermal connection.
    The solution is to scrape all of the old rubbery compound off all four surfaces (two on the bottom and two on the top section). I did it with a piece of PVC, but you can use anything with a sharp edge that won't scratch the metal surface—even your fingernails will work, unless the old compound has dried out to the point where it's hard. After you scrape the old gunk off, apply new thermal paste to all four surfaces.
    The other maintenance item you can perform while you're in there is cleaning out all the dust, which accumulates in vast quantities and interferes with cooling. I vacuumed it out with a plastic crevice tool, being careful NOT to touch any of the components with the tool. Vacuuming can build up a static charge on the tool, especially in dry environments, and high static voltages aren't friendly to microprocessors. I used a securely grounded anti-static wrist strap throughout the entire operation, and even wrapped it around the vacuum tool.
    Good luck!

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    Sorry, just realised I have posted in the wrong forum.
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