K9N2 SLI Platinum + Bios v3.6 = sad sad sad turbomach5

Been awhile :D Anyho I have a MAJOR problem. Updated the bios from 3.5 to 3.6. Rebooted, cleared the BIOS settings, set things right. Started the computer and everything seemed fine until it just turned off. Now I thought it was because I just plugged my iPhone up. I started it up and checked the BIOS settings. I noticed (oh btw my processor is the Phenom II X4 940BE) the voltage wasn't set to auto anymore. Instead it was set....to....1.8v! I tried to change it but it kept shutting down the computer. Now everytime I turn it on, all 4 groups of the DLED are red. I tried resetting the CMOS and replace the CPU with my old Athlon 64 X2 4200+ but still does the same thing: Starts up but DLED is all red, saying the processor is damaged.
Could it actually be the motherboard? Right now I'm using my mother's computer (with a MSI motherboard :D).

Can you get into the bios before it shuts down?
I figured it out how to fix the problem.
1. go into the bios
2. load Fail-safe defaults asap
3. Save & Exit setup asap before the computer shuts down
4. go back into the bios < cell menu, and the cpu voltage should go back to auto.

Similar Messages

K9N2 SLI Platinum BIOS Flashing.

I have a new K9N2 SLI Platinum and as yet no processor. The best deals look like they are for the Phenom 8xxx series of triple core machines, but they are only supported by BIOS 3.2 (or later). My board is of course at 3.1. The question is whether the board will run enough to be able to flash the BIOS to the new version using an unsupported processor or do I need to have a supported one ? If it is the latter I think I will go for a fast X2 rather than a triple or quad core, I don't for the most part run more than 2 processes that consume a lot of resources.
Thanks
Jim

You'll need a 1.4Mb floppy drive to flash the BIOS.
Go ahead and get an AMD 9850 BE or 9950.
(Personally I'd get the AMD 9850 BE and OC it to 2.6 Mhz - cheaper than the 9950)
I built my rig with AMD 9850 BE - booted the first time it was fed power.
But, being the "good tech", I had downloaded the latest of everything from MSI support site,
and saved to Floppy and flash drive.
(The CD you get with the M/B does NOT have the latest BIOS/Drivers)
The very FIRST thing I did was update the BIOS to version: 3.2
After that, just load your OS and install the drivers.
Good Luck.
-Neut.

K9N2 SLI Platinum Bios 3.4 Same old bugs

after waiting ages for another "Offical" bios to be released MSI released bios version 3.4 which still defaults the Phenom 940BE vcore to 1.8volts, auto STILL defaults to 1.375 volts after asking many times for 1.350v option which is default for these chips. thanks MSI for completely ignoring us.

thats very interesting news cjc, im sure theres deffo something not right with these k9n2 sli when resetting bios some seem to have problems others dont.
on this board when i update bios i update bios, shut system down ,pull power lead from psu wait about 30 seconds then press the reset button.
ive also tried load of different ways , loading optimized defaults and resetting etc,etc.
maybe you have 1.3500v because yours is deluxe edition maybe, and mine is platinum edition, the 1.8v thing is deffo not what i am doing tho as there are loads of reports online about this issue even posts on this forum about it (until they are locked).
other than that the board is perfect very stable.

K9N2 SLI Platinum BIOS v3.4 - Not compatible with DDR2 1066??

So... I've been going through OCZ Tech Support for about a month now.
I have a set of DDR1066 PC2-8500 Dual Channel ram. When I first installed it, and set it to run at 1066, I had nothing but problems and went through OCZ's tech support, went through a bunch of trouble shooting, and got an RMA on the set.
I sent it back to OCZ and it has been replaced with a new set, and I am still having problems getting this new set, to run at 1066 without it crashing constantly.
OCZ is now telling me that, since this is now two different sets of the same RAM, that is not working and refusing to run at 1066; but runs fine at 800... OCZ is now telling me that there is likely a problem with the BIOS on my Mobo not properly supporting 1066 Ram?? I'm running the latest BIOS of v3.4.
Is this possible?
I think I've read that other people are using this Mobo, with the same BIOS, and are having no problems with their DDR2 1066, correct?
Problem I am having is when I set my BIOS to run my ram at 1:2.66 for 1066; then try to run things like Crysis, Far Cry, SPORE, Second Life, etc... then the system constantly crashes. Everything else seems to run fine, Windows runs fine, internet browser runs fine, can watch TV, watch Movies and all this and never have problems.
But when I try to run a game; it constantly crashes but ONLY when I have the ram set to run at 1066.

Hello Bas.
I've tried all slots.
I'll repeat here, what I last posted on OCZ Forums in my latest thread there...
Ok.
For starters; through all the testing, the following settings never changed.
DRAM Timing Mode set to BOTH
Bank Interleaving set to AUTO
tRTP, tWR, tRRD, tWTR all set to AUTO.
1T/2T Memory Timing is set to 2T
DCT Unganged Mode is Enabled.
SLI-Ready Memory is Disabled.
NOW. The changes that were Tested.
Both Sticks in Dimm slots 1 and 2.
I've changed DRAM Voltage to v2.10 as advised. Still crashing.
Tried changing it to v2.20 next. Still crashing.
Changed it back to v2.10; and then set CAS, tRCD, tRP,tRAS and tRC to 5-5-5-18-27. Still crashing.
Left timings as previously set, changed to v2.20; still crashing.
NEXT.
Moved both sticks into dimm slots 3 and 4.
Left timings as previously set, changed to v2.10. Still crashing.
Changed to v2.20. Still crashing.
Changed to v2.00. Still crashing.
NEXT.
Left Timings as previously set. Voltage set to v2.10.
Removed 1 Stick from Slot 4; left 1 stick in Slot 3. Still crashing.
Switched sticks in Slot 3; Still crashing.
Removed stick from slot 3, placed same stick into Slot 1. Still Crashing.
Lastly...
Reset all settings to Default/Auto, set RAM back to 800mhz.
No more crashing.
At this point I do not know what else to do, and OCZ is telling me it is a problem with the BIOS that I am using. This is the SECOND set, of this same ram.
OCZ2RPR10664GK - http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/memory/ocz_ddr2_pc2_8500_reaper_hpc_4gb_edition
Here's my latest thread on their Support Forums - http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54291

K9N2 Sli Platinum + SSD OCZ Vertex 3 = Slow Speed Problem [PARTIALLY SOLVED]

Hey folks,
I have a problem with my new SSD. I only get sequential reads of 140MB/s and writes of 114MB/s.
I think it is a driver related issue. I once got faster SATA2-like speeds but cannot reproduce the system settings again... Everything back to SATA1-like speeds after reboot.
First my pc specs:
MSI K9N2 Sli Platinum, BIOS v3.9
- 6 SATAII ports by nForce 750a SLI
- 2 ESATA (External-SATA) ports (back panel) by JMB363
- Supports storage and data transfers at up to 3 Gb/s
AMD Phenom II 965 Black
Patriot PV224G8500ELKB Viper II Series DDR2 4GB (2 x 2GB, CL5 PC-8500/1066MHz)
SSD SATAIII OCZ Vertex 3, 120GB, FW v2.11
LG Internal BlueRay BH10LS30
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
I only get very slow speeds with the SSD. I tried so many things that I am getting very frustrated now, I am even thinking about getting a new board and ram just to get the SSD up to speed...
1)
I installed Win7 first with all the default settings in Windows Setup from DVD. Default "IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers" driver was "Standard AHCI1.0 Serial ATA Controller".
SSD was connected to SATA1-port, On-Chip Sata Controller AHCI enabled in BIOS, Extra RAID/IDE Controller disabled.
All fine, but whichever benchmark I used (AS SSD, HD Tune Pro, Atto Disk Benchmark, CrystalDiskMark; other tools used: DriveControllerInfo, AIDA64/Everest, CrystalDiskInfo ) I got e.g. 140MB/s Read and 114MB/s Write sequentially (CrystalDiskmark, similar with random data AND only zeros ).
Trim working (it seems) with AHCI driver. I also changed to nvstor64 driver (nforce driver setup 15.56), with is marginally faster but not what you would expect from a SATAIII drive on SATAII controller.
2)
I installed Win7 using "diskpart" (Shift-F10) during disk setup, setting a cluster size of 64k instead of default. No real change.
3)
After reinstall of Win7 x64 (again...), I changed from SATA1 port to SATA6 port, also enabled Extra Raid/IDE controller set to AHCI as well.
Nothing changed. With all settings to default in Windows (ahci default driver), I then manually updated the ahci to nvstore64 driver in Device Management, rebooted.
Then a minute later after reboot I got the following Sequential speeds with CrystalDiskMark:
273MB/s read and 137MB/s write (random data) + 274MB/s read and 220MB/s write (with zeros) !!!
While I ran this benchmark Windows came up with a message: "You must restart your computer to apply these changes - Restart Now/Restart Later".
After the previos reboot, when I changed manually from AHCI to NVSTORE, I had changed nothing in the current session, apart from running CrystalDiskMark.
I did reboot and I was back to the slow SSD speeds again = 140/114 MB/s...
4)
I have tried every possible combination of mainboard SATA ports, drivers changing with nvidia setup/manually, deleting and disabling controllers (incl BSOD and startup repair :D ), chaning bios settings around, but I just cannot get back the faster speeds
There is never any change in speed, whether I use ahci or nvstore64, whichever benchmark I use, whether random or zeros...
5)
Could the SSD be broken, something internally preventing it from faster speeds (with this one random exception)?
Could it be that my K9N2 SataPorts only allows for / reduced to SATA1 speeds?
Am I missing something with the driver setup?
Do I need additional drivers for the extra JMicron Controller when using SataPorts 5/6 ?
I have no other mainboard to test this with...
Please guys, I am going to jump out of the window if I can't fix it... :(
Thanks, Mike

Hey guys - problem 'solved':
I tested the OCZ SSD Vertex 3 120GB with following sata3 controller card http://www.lycom.com.tw/PE-115H.htm.
The card itself works immediately (needs at least PCIe x4 slot, will work slower otherwise but still faster than the OCZ SSD @sata1 with nvidia chipset).
There is some raid setup, doesn't apply to me, the boot even with the card is really only a few seconds longer and not annoying at all. Windows (7 x64) needed a driver, supplied on CD (which is cheap and making noise like h**l). The card works w/o the driver but doesn't harm to install it...
Also, just to clarify, this sata controller card did not need any specific setup at all. Just put it in, plug in sata cable (I use akasa sata3-rated), maybe change boot device in BIOS (I didn't even have to), done - booting Windows as usual.
Benchmark CDM with sata controller card Lycom PE-115H:
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3845/cdmpe115hahci0x00.png
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/7549/cdmpe115hahcirand.png
Speed is much better than before with nvidia chipset 750a SLI controller: sata1 (sata2 whenever it randomly worked):
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/505/cdmahci0x0.png
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6258/cdmahci0x0sata6contnv64.png
Final thoughts:
Well, I am happy with the SSD speed now (PCIe limited to 5Gbps). However, I had to spent quite some time to get it working on my sata2-cabable mainboard. Finally, I had to buy a extra controller card to get it working reliably at speeds faster than sata1. There is hardly any useful information on why this problem occurs with (older) nvidia chipsets and OCZ (sata3) SSDs. I still think that OCZ must know about this problem, but regards this issue as low priority, while at the same time not planning on giving up on sales to people with nvidia chipsets. Maybe OCZ should just make a big sticker on the box the drives come in with something like "Does/Might not work with nvidia chipsets, please use third-party sata controller card or different SSD manufacturer". But then none of these potential customers would buy OCZ SSDs...
I will keep the sata3 controller, anyway handy to have, but return the OCZ Vertex 3 120GB and replace it with a SSD from a different manufacturer (Corsair Force GT, Patriot and OWC are not that great to get around here). The benchmarks for most people will not achieve the maximum advertised OCZ speeds anyway, so why not go with a brand that allows for some plug'n'play with some customer support.
Hope this post helps others like me with their nvidia chipset + sata1 speed problem
Cheers, Mike

K9N2 SLI Platinum raid setup after bios flash

Hi
I'm building a new system based on K9N2 SLI Platinum. Apart from a new 80 GB sys. HDD everything else is reuse from another MB (MSI K9N Platinum).
Here is what is puzling me: Before trying to install WinXP i flashed the bios to 3.2 because of the included updates to the raid bios. Flashing went well, however in my setup I want the 80 GB HDD to be non-raid and the two 320 GB HDD to be raid1. I've set this up in bios so that only channel 5 and 6 is enabled for raid and would expect that the 80 GB HDD (channel 1) would show up as a normal sata HDD when starting up. But it doesn't - it is listed as 0.0 xxxx after the "press F10 to enter raid setup" message?
This is strange because I had the same HDD setup on my old MSI K9N Platinum and there the 80 GB sata HDD was shown as a "normal" disk and not as a "appendix" to the raid list.
Because of this I have problems installing WinXP on the 80 GB HDD
Any suggestions?

Hi BOSSKILLER
Thanks for your quick response.
Quote from: BOSSKILLER on 12-August-08, 00:14:44
Well, leave the 80GB only and install XP over it.
Then connect other two HDD's and enable RAID for them.
Unfortunately this didn't help. As soon as I installed the Windows nVidia RAID SW it prompted med that it had registered the 80 GB disk as a new disk that wasn't a member of any RAID. This happened everytime Windows XP was started.
The trick was to add the 80 GB disk as a Spanned disk using the nVidia RAID BIOS setup utility. Install Windows XP (again) and the Windows nVidia RAID SW and setup RAID 1 on the other two sata disk.
I don't think this is a great setup but it works. I hope that MSI will fix this issue in a later BIOS upgrade. It would be nice if the enabled/disabled for sata RAID setting actually worked.

New K9N2 SLI Platinum isn't booting into BIOS

So i just built a new system with an MSI K9N2 SLI Platinum, and installation went by with a breeze. However, after supplying power, and turning the system on for the first time I'm met with absolutely nothing.
I'm not the most advanced in this category, and I've certainly never experienced the likes of this ever. I've gone through the hardware configuration a thousand times, and I'd know if it were that.
I was wondering if anybody knew a few tricks to get this new board to boot. I'm suspecting it's probably something small and obvious I wouldn't ever think of.
But yeah, any help would be much appreciated.
Current System:
Mobo: MSI K9N2 SLI Platinum
CPU: AMD Phenom X4 9850 (black edition)/stock cooler
RAM: Corsair Dominator 2x2048Mb 1066Mhz DDR2
GPU: PNY XLR8 GeForce 9800 GTX
HDD1: Western Digital VelociRaptor 300GB 10K RPM
HDD2: Seagate Barracude 1.5TB 7200RPM
No operating systems yet (which is kind of impossible since I can't even set the boot order without the BIOS loading.) But I plan to run XP Pro alongside Gentoo.

All fans are spinning fine, I'll get the PSU info later, I took it from an old system I built before my last deployment. It's an 850 watt (single 12 volt rail) system, not sure the exact specs on it anymore.
I do believe though, that I've managed to knock something loose as it keeps beeping repeatedly now when it boots. Before it was absolute silence on boot. (which is weird because i don't actually remember installing the speaker?)
Oh, the DVD drive is from another system too, and pretty old, but it opens, and functions.
I also swapped between onboard video, and the graphics card to see if it was maybe the graphics card and still nothing.
Though I have to use a DVI converter with the graphics card (which is pretty lame for a 200+ dollar graphics card to have two DVI ports and an SVID port, but no HDMI port.)
Anyway, I originally tried to boot with my 1080P television connected into the HDMI DVI* port for the mobo.
Keep good language in a forum!
Now if I can just figure out what was wrong in the first place eh?
It seems the reset button allowed it to boot into the BIOS, but a regular boot wont?
Edit: Still wont boot into BIOS or POST though, I'm met with a blinking line that's been there for over 10 minutes now.

K9N2 SLI Platinum / Phenom II 940BE overvolting and buzzing at load

I have seen many posts related to this issue, but have found no solution. The only thread which seemed to be going somewhere went off topic and was closed before anything could be resolved
My Phenom II 940BE, at load, is constantly being overvolted between 1.37-.38 and 1.40v. In the BIOS, after a fresh CMOS reset, I see the processor is set to 1.80v in the cell menu. This is a false reading, though, since the hardware monitor still has it between the aforementioned 1.37-.38 and 1.40v. Regardless, the lowest setting I have available with the CPU voltage setting in the Cell Menu is 1.375v then AUTO.
I have tried using many BIOS images with freshly cleared CMOS (remove battery, power cables from motherboard, wait a few minutes etc.): 3.4 3.5 and a MSI tech provided 3.6B1 BIOS all produce the same behavior.
When my CPU is at load, a light buzzing sound can be heard from the CPU area of the motherboard. This is especially noticeable when cool n quiet is enabled and the system decides to go from 800MHz to 3GHz, the buzzing is for the duration of the up-clocking until clocked back to 800MHz. I had the same issue on Vista x64 as well as Win 7. After some time at 3GHz the buzzing seems to go away, but may be drowned out by a fan or two.
Has anyone found some sort of resolve for this issue?
System Specs:
K9N2 SLI Platinum
Phenom II 940BE stock
Stock AMD cooler
8 gig of OCZ DDR-II 800 RAM (OCZ2N800SR2G) at stock
BFG GeForce 9800GT 1gig stock
Windows 7 X64 RTM
EDIMAX Wireless card 802.11n
Enermax Liberty Power Supply 500W (link)
2x Samsung Ecogreen 500gig in RAID0
Pioneer DVD-RW (SATA)
Onboard sound

Problem 1: solved. The metal curly thing by the RAM was buzzing. Unfortunately I do not have a hot glue gun and pressing on it with an eraser from a pencil did not alleviate buzzing, so removing 2 sticks of ram did it. I had 4x 2gb sticks. Taking out 2 stopped almost all of the buzzing sound, but sadly now I am running with only 4 gig of ram vs my mighty 8
Problem 2 still remains, the mystery of my CPU being at 1.38 - 1.40V instead of 1.350 when set to AUTO in the BIOS.

K9N2 SLI Platinum Blue Screen of Death when installing Windows XP

My hardware includes:
•   MSI K9N2 SLI Platinum Motherboard
•   Corsair XMS2 TWIN2X4096-6400C5
•   GeForce 9800 GT 512MB GDDR3
•   AMD Phenom X4 9850 Quad Core Processor, Black Edition 2.5GHz
4MB Cache 2000MHz [4000 MT/s] FSB
•   Thermaltake Ruby Orb Aluminum Core CPU Cooler
•   UltraX3 850 Watt ATX Modular Power Supply
•   [1] Western Digital 200MB7200 ATA133 [Not connected yet]
•   [1] Maxtor 80MB ATA133 Drive [Not connected yet]
•   [1] Western Digital 500GB 7200RPM 16MB SATA II HARD DRIVE
•   [2] Seagate 7200.11 ST3500320AS 500GB SATA Hard Drives With 32 MB Cache
[Not connected yet]
•   LG DVD-RW
•   Toshiba DVD-ROM [Not connected yet]
•   AMI Bios v02.61
•   Antec Full Tower case
After partitioning my drive with Fdisk I tried to install Win Xp. My plan was to format the drive with XP. XP starts up and runs through the initial system check then when it prepares to install I get the blue screen that says [my words] "Windows has shut down to prevent damage to your system. If drivers are mentioned try disabling them in the BIOS or get the latest bios update from the equipment manufacturer..." The error is:
Stop 0x0000007E on the next line
pci.sys - address f7480BFbase at f7487000 Datestamp 3b7d855c
Just never had these problems setting up a system and soon I will be able to say it took me 2 years to get this running. Hope someone can help. Thanks

Use XP Installation disk with SP2 or SP3 included to fix the BSOD.
Simple your XP installation disk is outdated and cause troubles with latest hardware.

K9N2 SLI Platinum video won't initialize with monitor connected

Hi,
I've gone through the RMA process with my vendor and I am on my third motherboard right now and I am still having an issue (so, basically, nightmare scenario here ). The first and second motherboard failures seemed slightly different but the failure seems to be the same for the second and third and it is making me think that another factor may be at play other than the motherboard. All of the failures have been with the integrated video (which is all I plan to use at the moment --I don't even own a PCI-E video card right now nor have any plans to get one in the near future).
In the first motherboard, everything seemed to work (as far as I could tell --4 green diagnostic LED's and all that) but no video signal was produced. Testing with an antediluvian Virge DX based PCI card (some of you kiddies may be too young to remember such things) did show normal booting with that video card (as far as I allowed it to go) and I suspect, from the pattern of hard drive activity, that with the integrated video the boot process was also normal (I just couldn't see it because of no video signal being produced). But that is past and has been RMA'd.
The replacement motherboard and the motherboard replacing the replacement motherboard, on the other hand, have seemed unable to initialize video whenever my monitor is connected but if the monitor is not connected, they work fine (but then video defaults to a 1028x768 mode and I cannot run my monitor at native resolution). Curiously enough, my second motherboard worked correctly twice before exhibiting the described behavior making me think, at the time, that I just got really unlucky and simply had had it fail shortly after testing it those two initial times.
Not being able to initialize video while the monitor is plugged in means that if I try to start it while the monitor is attached, the motherboard will not even POST and that the diagnostic LED's will be stuck at the video initialization stage (three reds, and one green at group 4).
Furthermore, if I start it with no monitor attached and plug the monitor in after I get 4 green LED's, it will start booting the OS (Windows XP) but the screen will go black when the Windows XP logo should be appearing. I can also leave it unplugged until it should be at the Windows XP logo stage (or plug it after the 4 green LED's and unplug it again before the video mode switch happens) and when I plug it back in I can see the Windows XP logo. However, as soon as it switches to the Windows XP desktop, I get a black screen.
And again, if I leave the monitor unplugged until the Desktop should be showing up and I plug it in at that point (or go through the process of plugging and unplugging the monitor while avoiding having video mode switches happen with the monitor plugged in) I do get a Windows desktop at the 1024x768 resolution. Once in the desktop, as far as I can tell, I can do anything there that I normally would be able to do (so I mostly have a working system, as far as I can tell). I have even installed drivers, verified that the sound works, etc.. I will still do a repair install at some point because I am not doing this the "right way" and I probably needed to do it anyway (though I think it's using the right kernel and everything --showing 3 CPU's, etc.) but I am not looking for answers with that as my issue shows up before the system even goes through POST. Again, note that I cannot even take advantage of my monitor's native resolution with the current kludge.
Curiously enough, if I try to switch to my native resolution of 1920x1200 it will do it but only by switching me to a virtual 1920x1200 desktop on a 1024x768 display (so there's no actual video mode switch involved and the desktop becomes bigger than what my monitor can show). It's as if part of the subsystem is reading the monitor and "knows" that it supports 1920x1200 but another part of the subsystem is just assuming some sort of 1024x768 default common lowest denominator for digital displays. I attribute this to the fact that video has been initialized with no monitor connected.
I originally had a 350W Enermax power supply (which worked as long as the monitor was not plugged in) supplying 32A on the +3.3V rail, 32A on the +5V rail and 26A on the +12V rail but I replaced it with the power supply shown on my profile (which was probably totally unnecessary as I'm only using the integrated video --but hey, I now have a blue light coming from my power supply so that makes it all worth it ). I suppose both power supplies could work badly with this motherboard model but it seems exceedingly unlikely that that would be the case (specially since everything works as long as there is no monitor plugged in during video mode switches).
I currently am running it, on cardboard, with a single stick of RAM (on the slot next to the CPU) and nothing else connected to it except the power supply (including JPW3 & JPW4), the CPU, a hard disk with a working Windows XP install, a mouse on the mouse port and a keyboard on the keyboard port (specification as on my profile minus one RAM module). I did play with RAM timings at the request of tech support but I can't imagine how it could be a RAM problem when everything works as long as a monitor isn't plugged in during video mode switches.
I did update the BIOS from 3.4 to 3.5. 3.5 did not seem to be available at the time of my previous motherboard and I knew it was a real long shot for this to be a BIOS issue that would be fixed with the 3.5 update (specially since the update mentions only CPU support stuff and nothing about video) but I am desperate. Yes, I have done the whole resetting the CMOS thing.
I am even considering the possibility that there may be some weird incompatibility between the video on this board and my monitor (under the assumption that, quoting Holmes, once you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth). I don't even know how that would work. Note that my monitor worked in my previous system with the digital input (my previous system is no longer available to me for testing --but I did get a chance to test it, after having problems with my first K9N2 SLI Platinum motherboard which I returned, and it worked). Note that my monitor works with the system in question (I simply cannot have it connected while there's a video mode switch under way). Note that the lack of a picture seems to be related to the motherboard as evidenced by it being stuck at the video initialization stage if I attempt to start it with the monitor connected.
Any wild ideas? I do not want to return this motherboard a third time and I specially do not want to return this motherboard a third time if it's something that can be easily fixed.

Quote from: Svet on 25-May-09, 02:21:06
Have you tried with just memory stick in 1st DIMM near to CPU socket and mainboard out of PC case?
Yes, I currently am running it, on cardboard outside the case, with a single DIMM (on the slot next to the CPU) and nothing else connected to it except for the power supply (including JPW3 & JPW4), the CPU, a hard disk with a working Windows XP install, a mouse on the mouse port and a keyboard on the keyboard port (specification as on my profile minus one RAM module). And it works,... as long as the monitor is not ever connected while video mode switches occur (including power on). And this is exactly how the previous motherboard which I returned also behaved.
Addendum: As an additional note, I have tried the other DIMM on the same socket by the CPU with the same results (everything works as long as there's no monitor connected during a video mode switch). I also managed to make a bootable Memtest86+ (is that what people use to test memory these days?) USB stick and I am running it right now. It has shown no errors right so far but it has only been running a few minutes. I do not really expect any memory errors to be at fault since they would have to be magical memory errors which only cause problems when there is a monitor connected while a video mode switch is happening but I'm desperate to try anything to find out what the issue is.

Need help with drive installation for K9N2 SLI Platinum

Hi
I am new to the forum and to MSI
This is my 6th computer build and first time using SATA and PCIe
My hardware includes:
•   MSI K9N2 SLI Platinum Motherboard
•   Corsair XMS2 TWIN2X4096-6400C5
•   GeForce 9800 GT 512MB GDDR3
•   AMD Phenom X4 9850 Quad Core Processor, Black Edition 2.5GHz
4MB Cache 2000MHz [4000 MT/s] FSB
•   Thermaltake Ruby Orb Aluminum Core CPU Cooler
•   UltraX3 850 Watt ATX Modular Power Supply
•   [1] Western Digital 200MB7200 ATA133
•   [1] Maxtor 80MB ATA133 Drive [Not connected yet]
•   [1] Western Digital 500GB 7200RPM 16MB SATA II HARD DRIVE
•   [2] Seagate 7200.11 ST3500320AS 500GB SATA Hard Drives With 32 MB Cache
[Not connected]
•   LG DVD-RW
•   Toshiba DVD-ROM
•   AMI Bios
•   Antec Full Tower case
The board set up fine, but I can’t figure out how to install my drives. The MSI directions are the worse I’ve ever seen, or should I say non-existent. They don’t even describe the bios entries… I am familiar with the bios, but don’t know all the settings for the board. I set the time and date and had to rearrange my drive placement on the board to have my 2 DVD drives show up on the secondary IDE Channel instead of the primary IDE. The Western Digital 200MB7200 ATA133 is on the primary master IDE. I’m old fashioned so I still use FDISK to erase the old OS and partition the drive… I couldn’t see my SATA drive in FDISK even though I could see it in the bios. Now I want my Western Digital 500GB 7200RPM 16MB SATA II HARD DRIVE to be the system drive and the Western Digital 200MB7200 ATA133 to be a slave drive. My previous boards had raid but I just used them as additional slave drives.
My goals: I want to have redundancy for my personal audio/video and my work. I will use the 2 Seagate 7200.11 ST3500320AS 500GB SATA drives for that.
I also want 2 additional drives not purchased yet for my other data storage needs and for games
My questions are:
Can I use the SATA drive as the system drive if a drive is connected to the primary IDE?
How do I set up Raid on this board? I actually want to use its capabilities this time.
Does this board present any special problems with dual booting XP sp2 and Vista 64bit.
If I put another set of Corsair XMS2 TWIN2X4096-6400C5 in anticipation of installing Vista 64bit will this cause a problem other than windows XP not seeing the additional memory.
Is there additional documentation for this board somewhere?
Please help…I have been working on this thing for 4 days straight. My last build took 2 hours not including software installation. Hope I stated everything you need to know. Thanks in advance

Hello!
Advice no. 1 will be not to have everything connected at once. Have the chosen SATA and one of the DVD:s connected and install Windows. (Windows can only boot from bootable devices. It "jumps" all un-bootable.) Once you have a successful boot and happy with it, remove other things from the boot-sequence.
Eh, some of your questions suggest you don't have the full manual, but a multi-lingual one. Check this out, bottom of the list:
http://global.msi.com.tw/index.php?func=downloadfile&dno=6745&type=manual

Need some advise - MSI K9N2 Sli Platinum

Hello. I have some strange behavior of the system since the last week. Processor´s fan speeds up and down. Usualy is 3400-3600rpm; now speeds up to 5400-5600rpm and stay accelerate for a good while. I thought it could be some dust; yesterday I made a general cleaning of the hardware and also replaced the Thermaltake fan with another one which I have for replacement. The heatsink is firm, deos not have movements. The thermal grase is OCZ Freeze etc, something good, seems to be hardened because heatsink stay firm. This was assembled some 16 month ago.
I started again the PC, slow down the processor´s speed from OC 3.2Ghz to the basic 2.8 Ghz and the problem still go on. I thought this could be come system drivers problem, some sensor related. Then, I download the sys driver 15.49_nforce_winvista_win7_64bit_intern ational_whql from nVidia site and install it. Nothing, the problem is the same.
also: http://i44.tinypic.com/120pix4.jpg
The readings of Temperatures the TMPIN0 and TMPIN1, north and south bridge are ok. The TMPIN2 127°C is a dead sensor, it allways was like that from the beginning. Don´t pay attention to it.
I´m really worried that thomething bad could happen and I have not a replacement for this mobo now.
Could be some bad or crazy sensor which send some erroneous signal and that´s could be the origin of this situation?
Does it exist the possibility the mobo get fried?
I hope you´ll have the best advise for me.
My best regards,
Florin
OS Windows 7 Ultimate x64
MSI K9N2 Sli Platinum
Phenom II x3 720 BE with Thermaltake Venus 12 cooler, 2.8Ghz
4Gb (2x2Gb) Patriot (PVS24G6400LLKN) Extreme Performance Viper Series PC2-6400 CL4 DDR2-800 Dual Channel
MSI nVidia GForce 9600GT / 512 Mb
x2 WDigital Caviar Black bulk / sata 300 / 32Mb cache / 750Gb each
DVD-RW Plextor px-810SA
PS Xion Power Real 2.2 / 600W
Aluminium case Viper XG with x3 120mm Ever Cool Spider fans (front, back, up)
1 monitor LG Fantasy 19" / 4:3
1 monitor Siragon 22" / 19:10
Logitech 2.1 sound system (subwoffer + x2 three way speakers)
Microsoft curve keyboard
Microsoft IE mouse
--I made you image clickable and
fixed your link. To see how, click the
quote button, or edit if it's within an hour
of your posting.
Mike

I'm confused. You say to ignore the 127° reading, but then state you are concerned and talk about a false reading. What reading and what exactly are you concerned with, the CPU temps? If your system were getting that hot(127°C), you'd shut down or blow something. I'm sure it's a false reading.
If you wish to remove the heatsink, get something like Artic Silver 5 so you have a different paste to use. Then, boot to the bios and leave it there for 15 minutes and shut down(you can simply hit the power off button this way). Immediately, after shutdown, removing the power cord and pushing the power on button several times to drain the capacitors, try and remove the Heatsink carefully with some slight wiggle back and forth motion. Hopefully, the heating of the TIM will make it pliable enough for easier removal. DO NOT USE FORCE.

K9n2 SLI Platinum DRAM timings will not stay

First off, I would like to say that I am posting this for my friend and that we both love MSI products. His setup is
K9n2 SLI Platinum,
Phenom 9950 140 watt black edition,
2 gigs OCz sli ready 8500 1066 1x2 kit,
BFG 8800 GTS G92 core 512mb graphics card,
and Corsair 650 watt PSU.
I don't at this time of writing have any screens, I can only explain whats going on. When he goes into BIOS and sets the Dram timings to 5.5.5.15 moves the voltage to 2.0, sets the Dram to run at 1066 which I think is 1.2.66, it reads at the top of the BIOS screen 1066. He then saves and exits reboots into windows runs CPU-z and it shows the timings have changed to 5.6.6.16, when he shuts down and goes back to BIOS it has changed there as well to the 5.6.6.16. The BIOS is the most current 3.2 also all the drivers and updates are the most recent for hardware and windows Vista home premium 32 bit. I Am trying to be as specific as possible to help you guys help us. The ram is in Dual channel Unganged. Please note it reads in CPU-z even with the 5.6.6.16 timings 1066 rather 533 DDR2 however the ram supports 5.5.5.15 in timings so I don't think that this could be good for it. We have done Memtest on the ram all test did fine we also used the windows version no errors on both test, We have not used Prime95 yet.
Any help would be great and much appreciated at this point. His computer has crashed twice, once was the Blue screen of death and the other was just a lockup. I also should mention CPU, mobo temps I think are well within specs CPU idle 37c load 45c graphics card at idle 40c load 46c. Thank you for reading Shucky.

You are most welcome! Ever so kind!
No performace lost, instead higher efficiency like you noticed.
Think of it like this:
A pipe with a big diameter can transport a lot of fluid.
A pipe with high pressure, where things have a high speed, can transport a lot of fluid.
A pipe where the diameter is not the same in both ends. Well, you can't say how much fluid will come out the other end, at least not without a lot of calculating and testing. (Like you also noticed. :D )
What is a pity is that program(mer)s have difficulties making use of all the cores. Phenom have four true cores. I think it will take about two years until all four can be put to full use, but if there ever is any real use in using all four cores is hard to say and a different question.
Sure AMD and Intel and Microsoft et al have found ways of distributing processor work, but they are far from optimized. And it isn't easy: Think of the project your work group got from your chief or teacher: How many should be involved? Or if you are 300 people in your dorm, or even just four of you in your family, should all help out with the washing up after supper?
No, is the best answer to that. So what has begun is developing processors, with a variety of cores. One may - as a silly example - make icons until or unless it can do better work somewhere else. - Not an easy thing making it do tasks like that, either! So that is why I did the washing up just now.

K9N2 SLI Platinum - JPW2 connection essential? Also, question about diagLEDs

I've been running a K9N2 SLI Platinum with a Phenom 9950BE and 2 Geforce 9800GT video cards for half a year now, running as stable as any computer could and I couldn't be happier. However, there's one thing that I've always had a question about - the molex connection on the board labeled JPW2. The manual says that JPW2 is "used to provide power to stable the operation of graphics card", but using the PCI-E connectors on the card appears to be adqeuate to running a stable system.
In regards to this though, am I running the risk of an underpowering my motherboard not having JPW2 plugged in? The 24-pin and 8-pin power connectors on the board are of course plugged in and my concern is merely (hopefully!) academic at this point, but I'm just curious if not having power running through JPW2 would cause any problems down the line. My components are power hogs and I believe my power supply is up to it, but I'd love it if someone wiser than I could indulge my curiousity.
Also, my diagnostic LEDS are reading something other than four green solid lights in normal operation (successful POST, Windows loaded and running). If you were to view the motherboard correctly mounted in the case, the order of the lights are: [G][R][R][G]. The manual refers to this as "BIOS Sign On - This will start showing information about logo, processor brand name, etc..." which is as incredibly unhelpful as it can be when it comes to this sort of thing. I state again that this doesn't effect normal operation - it's just another thing that I'm curious about.
Thank you for helping me put my mind to rest!
SPECS
K9N2 SLI Platinum
AMD Phenom 9950BE
8GB G.Skill 800MHz DDR2 RAM
2x Geforce 9800GT 1GB
Seagate Barracuda ST3320620AS 320GB HDD
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F1 HD103UJ 1TB HDD
LITE-ON DH-20A4P-04 20x DVD-DL Writer
Thermaltake W0116RU 750W ATX Power Supply
CM Storm Sniper ATX Case
Windows Vista Ultimate 64-bit

Quote
1. Will not plugging in JPW2 will adversely affect system performance stability.
No, but its recommended to be connected.
Quote
2. Diagnostic led is shoring GRRG during normal use. No apparent adverse effects. Manual quite unhelpful. Cause?
If the system works OK ignore it. Else ask here: http://ocss.msi.com/

K9N2 SLI Platinum Powers down.

Big Problem starting! I purchased the K9N2 SLI Platinum board a couple months ago. For the first month everything went well except that my games would freeze such as Everquest. Never made any sense could freeze with in 5 minutes or, could be fine for over 5 days. Either way it was annoying so going through some information online I loaded optimal defaults on the Mobo BIOS and stopped loading the NVidia control panel at start up and it was great for a couple weeks no freezing. Now lately the computer just turns off. Like if you just pulled the power plug out. BOOM and its off. Could last 5 minutes or 5 days again. Very random. Nothing is over heating. Board is cool and CPU never goes higher then 49C. Most of the time I can hit the power button and turn the PC right back on again and its fine. Could blow again in 5 minutes or 5 days whether the PC is idle or I am playing a game. Now sometimes when it powers off. I can't turn it back on for a while. Ussually when this happenes there are no LEDs on in the Mobo. If I pull the power plug, let it sit for a min then plug it back in, it so far has powered back up ok. Another wierd thing is when I access the BIOS on start up now it seems to be shutting off. I want to say Power Supply may be? Prolly would be the first to try but would it explain the freezing games also int he beggining? It's 650watt and I am ussing the 8 pin rail since I have a pwoerfull CPU. May be there is a better recommended one for this type of Mobo. I tried the research the best one. My video card and ram worked great in my last PC but I had gotten the XFX 750 board and it was just horrible so I got rid of it. Rather of stayed with MSI which has been running better except for these issues. Any help would be greatly appriciated!
**** UPDATES ARE IN MY REPLIES UNDER THIS. DIDN'T KNOW I COULD UPDATE IN THE SAME POST ****
MSI K9N2 SLI Platinum Socket AM2+ Motherboard with Nvidia 750a SLI Chipset, PCI Express 2.0
Logisys 650 Watt 24 Pin Green Gamer Power Supply w/ SATA and PCI-E
AMD Phenom X4 9850 Quad
OCZ Platinum XTC 4GB Dual Channel PC6400 Memory - DDR2-800MHz
XFX GeForce 9600 GSO Video Card - 768MB DDR2, PCI Express 2.0, Dual Link DVI, SLI Ready
Western Digital Caviar SE16 500GB Hard Drive - 7200, 16MB, SATA-300

Ok i want to buy with my same company I bought the PSU from so I bought Prudent Way True One 1000watt nVidia Certified Quad SLI PCI-E w/ Six +12V Rails and Lifetime Warranty. They dont have the Corsair. I figure this one is beefy and solid. If it does power down too we should be able to rule out the PSU hopefully. If you think it's a bad choice please just say so. Should I be using 2 4pin rails or just the 8pin rail??? The manuals say you need an 8pin rail for my processor. I've seen some issues with using two 4 pins together saying it messes with the voltage or something?? What is a better way 2 four pins or just one 8 pin?? I've have checked for loose or frayed wires. No loose metal or screws in the case. Remember also it didn't do this for one whole month. Just some freezing with my everquest game. The only thing I don't like is how my pci-e video card sits in the mobo with this case. Looks like it can't go down all the way but if that were the problem, i figure it wouldn't work at all. I will take a day and rebuild this again in the case just to be safe like you said. I did take my time with mounting holes. Was very careful with this board. The power connections to the mobo seem a little wiggly but it just may be me. They seem to be making good contact. And also it just powered down again as i was typing this. Had to retype it. No shaking or bumping of the case. Plain aggravating this is!
MSI K9N2 SLI Platinum Socket AM2+ Motherboard with Nvidia 750a SLI Chipset, PCI Express 2.0
Logisys 650 Watt 24 Pin Green Gamer Power Supply w/ SATA and PCI-E
AMD Phenom X4 9850 Quad
OCZ Platinum XTC 4GB Dual Channel PC6400 Memory - DDR2-800MHz
XFX GeForce 9600 GSO Video Card - 768MB DDR2, PCI Express 2.0, Dual Link DVI, SLI Ready
Western Digital Caviar SE16 500GB Hard Drive - 7200, 16MB, SATA-300

K9N2 SLI Platinum + Bios v3.6 = sad sad sad turbomach5

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