Kaputt battery charge meter, and no sound

Hi folks, I have a Macbook Pro with 10.5 on it.
Okay, so a few moments ago, I was sitting on the couch running off of my battery, and I get the usual low battery warning, at 10%, so I wait a few minutes, and at about 8% I plugged in the charger. I was listening to headphones previously, and after I had unplugged them, I noticed that there is no more sound coming from the speakers. I can't even adjust the sound. So I unplugged the battery charger and the computer went into sleep mode as if the battery was completely dead. I plugged it back in, logged on and the battery meter read 19% and then bounced to 3%. Now it's at 23%, and I am not sure what to think.
What's wrong with my laptop?

First thing to try is to reset your device. Press and hold the Home and Sleep buttons simultaneously ignoring the red slider should one appear until the Apple logo appears. Let go of the buttons and let the device restart. See if that fixes your problem.
If that didn't help Make an appointment at an Apple Store to have your device examined by a technician. Or contact Apple Support.

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i seen a iphone 4s at the telstra shop with a pink battery charge screen and i would like to have it on my iphone 4 which is optus and i DONT want to jb it ok thanks

It sounds as if AT&T has already told you they can't do what you want. It doensn't sould like anything that's fixable on your end.

Just bought new battery charged it and the mac finds it but can't start it without charger and when i remove charger in os it dies right away what to do???

Just bought New battery charged it and the mac finds it but can't start it without charger and when i remove charger in os it dies right away what to do???
Here´s some info:
Macbook Pro 2008 (Early)
Lion
Some INFO from power in about mac
It´s Danish hope you can understand the info
Batterioplysninger:
Modeloplysninger:
Serienummer:
Producent:          SMP
Enhedsnavn:          ASMB012
Pack Lot Code:          a0b0
PCB Lot Code:          c0f1
Firmware-version:          8800
Hardwarerevision:          0
Cellerevision:          0
Oplysninger om batterispænding:
Resterende kapacitet (mAh):          5200
Fuldt opladt:          Ja
Oplader:          Nej
Fuld ladekapacitet (mAh):          5200
Oplysninger om batteritilstand:
Antal cykler:          1
Betingelse:          Normal
Batteri installeret:          Ja
Strømstyrke (mA):          0
Spænding (mV):          11796
Energiindstillinger til system:
AC-strømforsyning:
Interval for vågeblus for system (minutter):          30
Interval for vågeblus for disk (minutter):          10
Interval for vågeblus for skærm (minutter):          10
Genstart automatisk efter strømafbrydelse:          Nej
Afbryd vågeblus ved ændret spændingskilde:          Nej
Afbryd vågeblus, når skærmen slås op:          Ja
Afbryd vågeblus via LAN:          Ja
Aktuel strømkilde:          Ja
Vågeblus dæmper lysstyrken:          Ja
PrioritizeNetworkReachabilityOverSleep:          0
RestartAfterKernelPanic:          157680000
Batteri:
Interval for vågeblus for system (minutter):          10
Interval for vågeblus for disk (minutter):          10
Interval for vågeblus for skærm (minutter):          2
Afbryd vågeblus ved ændret spændingskilde:          Nej
Afbryd vågeblus, når skærmen slås op:          Ja
Vågeblus dæmper lysstyrken:          Ja
Formindsk lysstyrke:          Ja
RestartAfterKernelPanic:          157680000
Hardwarekonfiguration:
UPS installeret:          Nej
Oplysninger om oplader:
Tilsluttet:          Ja
Id:          0x0100
Watt (W):          85
Revision:          0x0000
Familie:          0x00ba
Serienummer:          0x004fe0c9
Oplader:          Nej

Take it to an Apple Genius Bar to be checked out. It will either be the battery or the Logic board (not sure the charging circuit is a separate part. If it is then it mya be just that part).
If logic board just use it plugged in as for the cost of changing out the logic board you can buy a new system.

My iPod displays black & white battery charge icon and sad iPod face. help!

I plugged my iPod into an older iMac; it froze and had to be restarted.
I restarted it and started listening on shuffle.
It would skip through all of my songs without me pressing any buttons.
I restarted again and it worked fine.
I came home and plugged it into my 10.3.9 iMac and the tracks started skiping and barely playing on iTunes.
I tried to eject it, but it wouldn't...so I unplugged it.
I then restarted it, but after the silver-on-black iMac icon came up, the sad iPod face showed.
So I pluged it back into the computer. It spontaniously restarted when I tried all of the steps of restarting and reinstalling.
Then it just displays a black& white old battery charge icon with a thunder bolt that flickers on the screen now and then.
And continues to restart itself with first the apple icon turning into the sad ipod face and then into the battery charge icon.
I really do not want to restore my iPod. I am hoping to keep my files but at this point, my future is bleak.
This happened last night. They said it might just be my battery so I kept it plugged in for about 10 hours. Nothing.
What can I do?
Please, please help.

Hello,
If a sad iPod icon or an exclamation point and folder icon appears on your iPod’s screen, or with sounds of clicking or HD whirring, it is usually the sign of a hard drive problem and you have the power to do something about it now. Your silver bullet of resolving your iPod issue – is to restore your iPod to factory settings.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=60983
If you're having trouble, try these steps at different levels one at a time until the issue is resolved. These steps will often whip your iPod back into shape.
Make sure you do all the following “TRYs”
A. Try to wait 30 minutes while iPod is charging.
B. Try another FireWire or USB through Dock Connector cable.
C. Try another FireWire or USB port on your computer .
D. Try to disconnect all devices from your computer's FireWire and USB ports.
E. Try to download and install the latest version of iPod software and iTunes
http://www.apple.com/ipod/download/
http://www.apple.com/itunes/download/
F. Try these five steps (known as the five Rs) and it would conquer most iPod issues.
http://www.apple.com/support/ipod/five_rs/
G. Try to put the iPod into Disk Mode if it fails to appear on the desktop
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93651
If none of these steps address the issue, you may need to go to Intermediate level listed below in logical order. Check from the top of the lists to see if that is what keeping iPod from appearing on your computer in order for doing the Restore.
Intermediate Level
A. Try to connect your iPod with another computer with the iPod updater pre-installed.
B. Still can’t see your iPod, put it in Disk Mode and connect with a computer, instead of doing a Restore on iPod Updater. Go and format the iPod instead.
For Mac computer
1. Open the disk utility, hope your iPod appears there (left hand side), highlight it
2. Go to Tab “Partition”, click either “Delete” or “Partition”, if fails, skip this step and go to 3
3. Go to Tab “Erase” , choose Volume Format as “MAC OS Extended (Journaled), and click Erase, again if fails, skip it and go to 4
4. Same as step 3, but open the “Security Options....” and choose “Zero Out Data” before click Erase. It will take 1 to 2 hours to complete.
5. Eject your iPod and do a Reset
6. Open the iPod Updater and click “Restore”
For Window computer
Go to folder “My Computer”
Hope you can see your iPod there and right click on the iPod
Choose “Format”. Ensure the settings are at “Default” and that “Quick Format” is not checked
Now select “Format”
Eject your iPod and do a Reset
Open the iPod Updater and click “Restore”
In case you do not manage to do a “Format” on a window computer, try to use some 3rd party disk utility software, e.g.“HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool”.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=501330&tstart=0
C. Windows users having trouble with their iPods should locate a Mac user. In many cases when an iPod won't show up on a PC that it will show up on the Mac. Then it can be restored. When the PC user returns to his computer the iPod will be recognized by the PC, reformatted for the PC, and usable again. By the way, it works in reverse too. A Mac user often can get his iPod back by connecting it to a PC and restoring it.
Tips
a. It does not matter whether the format is completed or not, the key is to erase (or partly) the corrupted firmware files on the Hard Drive of the iPod. After that, when the iPod re-connected with a computer, it will be recognized as an fresh external hard drive, it will show up on the iPod updater.
b. It is not a difficult issue for a Mac user to find a window base computer, for a PC user, if they can’t find any Mac user, they can go to a nearest Apple Shop for a favor.
c. You may need to switch around the PC and Mac, try to do several attempts between “Format” and “Restore”
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2364921&#2364921
Advance Level
A. Diagnostic mode solution
If you have tried trouble shooting your iPod to no avail after all the steps above, chances are your iPod has a hardware problem. The iPod's built-in Diagnostic Mode is a quick and easy way to determine if you have a "bad" iPod.
You need to restart your iPod before putting it into Diagnostic Mode. Check that your hold switch is off by sliding the switch away from the headphone jack. Toggle it on and off to be safe.
Press and hold the following combination of buttons simultaneously for approximately 10 seconds to reset the iPod.
iPod 1G to 3G: "Menu" and "Play/Pause"
iPod 4G+ (includes Photo, Nano, Video, and Mini): "Menu" and "Select"
The Apple logo will appear and you should feel the hard drive spinning up. Press and hold the following sequence of buttons:
iPod 1G to 3G: "REW", "FFW" and "Select"
iPod 4G+ (includes Photo, Nano, Video, and Mini): "Back" and "Select"
You will hear an audible chirp sound (3G models and higher) and the Apple logo should appear backwards. You are now in Diagnostic Mode. Navigate the list of tests using "REW" and "FFW". The scroll wheel will not function while in diagnostic mode. For further details on Diagnostic mode can be found at http://www.methodshop.com/mp3/ipodsupport/diagnosticmode/
Try to do the 5in1, HDD R/W and HDD scan tests. Some successful cases have been reported after the running the few tests under the Diagnostic mode. In case it does not work in your case, and the scan tests reports show some errors then it proves your iPod has a hardware problem and it needs a repairing service.
B. Format your iPod with a start disk
I have not tried this solution myself, I heard that there were few successful cases that the users managed to get their iPod (you must put your iPod in disk mode before connecting with a computer) mounted by the computer, which was booted by a system startup disk. For Mac, you can use the Disk Utility (on the Tiger OS system disk), for PC user, you can use the window OS system disk. Try to find a way to reformat your iPod, again it does not matter which format (FAT32, NTFS or HFS+) you choose, the key is to erase the corrupted system files on the iPod. Then eject your iPod and do a Reset to switch out from Disk Mode. Reboot your computer at the normal way, connect your iPod back with it, open the iPod updater, and hopefully your iPod will appear there for the Restore.
If none of these steps address the issue, your iPod may need to be repaired.
Consider setting up a mail-in repair for your iPod http://depot.info.apple.com/ipod/
Or visit your local Apple Retail Store http://www.apple.com/retail/
In case your iPod is no longer covered by the warranty and you want to find a second repairing company, you can try iPodResQ at your own risk
http://www.ipodresq.com/index.php
Just in case that you are at the following situation
Your iPod warranty is expired
You don’t want to pay any service charges
You are prepared to buy a new one
You can’t accept the re-sell value of your broken iPod
Rather than leave your iPod as paper-weight or throw it away.
You can try the following, but again, only do it as your last resort and at your own risk.
Warning !!!! – It may or may not manage to solve your problem, and with a risk that you may further damage your iPod, which end up as an expensive paper weight or you need to pay more higher repairing cost. Therefore, please re-consider again whether you want to try the next level
Last Resort Level
1. . Disconnecting the Hard Drive and battery inside the iPod – Warning !! Your iPod warranty will be waived once you open the iPod.
In Hong Kong there are some electronic shops offering an iPod service for Sad iPod, the first thing they do is to open up the iPod’s case and disconnecting the battery and the Hard Drive from the main board of the iPod. Wait for 5-10 minutes and reconnecting them back. The reason behind which I can think of is to do a fully reset of a processor of the iPod. In case you want do it itself and you believe that you are good on fixing the electronics devices and have experience to deal with small bits of electronic parts, then you can read the following of how to open the iPod case for battery and HDD replacement (with Quicktimes)
http://eshop.macsales.com/tech_center/index.cfm?page=Video/directory.html
2.Press the reset button on the Hard Drive inside the iPod – Suggestion from Kill8joy
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2438774#2438774
Have I tried these myself? No, I am afraid to do it myself as I am squeamish about tinkering inside electronic devices, I have few experiences that either I broke the parts (which are normally tiny or fragile) or failed to put the parts back to the main case. Therefore, I agree with suggestion to have it fixed by a Pro.
2. Do a search on Google and some topics on this discussion forum about “Sad iPod”
What should I do with my iPod? Send it or keep it?
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=469080&tstart=0
Strange error on iPod (probably death)
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=435160&start=0&tstart=0
Sad Face on iPod for no apparent reason
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=336342&start=0&tstart=0
Meeting the Sad iPod icon
http://askpang.typepad.com/relevanthistory/2004/11/meeting_thesad.html#comment-10519524
Sad faced iPod, but my computer won’t recognize it?
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2236095#2236095
iPod Photo: unhappy icon + warranty question
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2233746#2233746
4th Gen iPod Users - are we all having the same problem?
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=2235623#2235623
Low Battery, and clicking sounds
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2237714#2237714
Sad faced iPod, but my computer won’t recognize it
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2242018#2242018
Sad iPod solution
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=412033&tstart=0
Re: try to restore ipod and it says "can't mount ipod"
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=443659&tstart=30
iPod making clicking noise and is frozen
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2420150#2420150
I am not suggesting that you should follow as well, but just read them as your reference. You are the person to make the call.

HT201412 my ipod 4gen wont turn on, wont charge non responsive, when i connect it to my pc it is not recognized, i tried press and holding the home and lock button but wont solve the issue, it will only display the battery charging(frozen) and that's it

My ipod touch 4th gen wont charge , turn on, wont reset, when connect it to the pc it wont be recognized, when you press a button the battery charging image will appear for a bit then gone again, black

Try:
- iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
- Also try DFU mode after try recovery mode
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
- If not successful and you can't fully turn the iOS device fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
- If still not successful that indicates a hardware problem and an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store is in order.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar

How come my mac's battery charges fast and drains fast as well?, How come my mac's battery charges fast and drains fast as well?

I would like to know why my Macbook Air 13 IN. (The one before the newest one that just came out) loses battery so fast and also charges so fast? Literally, it takes about 2 hours for my mac to charge, which I love, but then when it is not plugged into the charger, it's battery life runs out in about 2 hours as well. The only changes I have made to my copmuter in the last month (when this problem began) was upgrading to Mavericks and playing games. First, I updated to OSX Mavericks (huge mistake on my part for various reasons). Secondarily, I began to play graphic intensive games on my mac; games like Team Fortress 2 on Steam. I began playing them very often. Now, I know, you all probably think that this is obviouslty the reason the battery drains so fast, and I get that, but how come it charges really fast too? It hasn't always done this, however. It used to take hours to charge and it would therefore last MUCH longer. So I basically have two questions; How come my mac's battery drains AND CHARGES so fast, and what can I do to restore its charging abilities back to their original state?

Yes, even playing the graphics intense STEAM games would have no accounting for ultra-fast charge times.
Since your Mac is short-charging your Air and there is wrong information being fed that a full charge has occurred when it in fact hasnt (as per your indications) then:
perform a SMC reset, and if same, you'll need to make an appt. with your Apple store for full diagnostics of possible IO board or battery circuitry issue.
SMC reset
Shut down the computer.
Plug in the MagSafe power adapter to a power source, connecting it to the Mac if its not already connected.
On the built-in keyboard, press the (left side) Shift-Control-Option keys and the power button at the same time.
Release all the keys and the power button at the same time.
Press the power button to turn on the computer.
Note: The LED on the MagSafe power adapter may change states or temporarily turn off when you reset the SMC.

Battery charging mini and 4th gen

I Have a new 4th generation IPad and a mini I pad for my wife arrived today. The charging adapters are different. The mini one is smaller. Will it be O.K to charge the mini with the larger adapter? We are going away and one cable & charger will be good.

The mini and 4th gen both use the lightning adapter it is quite small. Either you didn't buy a 4th gen or you were ripped off.

I updated my ipad 2 with software update and it wont open...it shows the battery charger logo and itunes logo

ipad 2 is locked up

Your iPad is in recovery mode and needs to be restored with iTunes now. That's the only way to fix it.
If you can't update or restore your iOS device - Support - Apple

Computer won't charge fully and sound is off

My air won't charge completely and the sound stopped working

Try troubleshooting the adapter > Apple Portables: Troubleshooting MagSafe adapters
Open System Preferences > Sound. Make sure Mute is not checked and the correct output device is selected.

New x140e battery charge error

Hello everyone,
Bought a Thinkpad x140e a few days ago, new and sealed. Just powered it on today, and Windows is reporting a battery charge error and should be replaced. It's stuck at 7% since I plugged it in.
What shall I do?
I updated the Lenovo power manager and tried to run the battery meter calibrate thing, but no change!
Booted into Linux just to check battery status, and it's the same problem.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hello,
It sounds like you may have obtained a unit either with a defective battery, or defective charging circuitry.
Given that you just received the system, I would suggest calling Lenovo support directly and opening a ticket with them to investigate the issue. If it turns out to be the hardware, you can get it repaired, or perhaps return the unit for exchange to whatever store you purchased it from as DOA.
Regards,
Aryeh Goretsky
I am a volunteer and neither a Lenovo nor a Microsoft employee. • Dexter is a good dog • Dexter je dobrý pes
S230u (3347-4HU) • X220 (4286-CTO) • W510 (4318-CTO) • W530 (2441-4R3) • X100e (3508-CTO) • X120e (0596-CTO) • T61p (6459-CTO) • T43p (2678-H7U) • T42 (2378-R4U) • T23 (2648-LU7)
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Ipod 3rd Gen battery charge issue

I have various 3rd gen ipod's and logic boards. parts n pieces etc. here is my issue.... i recently purchased a new battery for 1 of these 3rd gen ipods to repair. when i first plugged everything in and connected usb cable ipod fired up no problems but the battery was not showing any charge. i even tested battery as it was charging with a multi meter. the voltage was slowly discharging. Now... i disconnected the battery and plugged it into a 2nd gen ipod mini and did the same thing. The battery showed a slow charge as tested with the meter. once the battery charged to full 3.7v i then put it back into the 3rd gen and powered it on only to the same effect with no battery charge indication and also a slow drain with the meter test. i've tried this on 3 or 4 different 3rd gen logic boards that i have and with the same results. I'm confused *** is goin on here. any replies please. thanks.

Just how its logic board is programmed I guess.
They make splitter cables which is a firewire and usb cable in 1, so if you have a wall charger you can charge and sync via USB at the same time.

Battery Charge on 2013 MBPr 15

Regarding to some posts;
a. To maintain a healthy battery on my newly purchased MBPr 15 inch, I am to drain the battery to around 20% before charing it again. Since this will minimize the no. of charge cycles the batter will have to undergo. It is very bad to leave the charger on after your mac's battery hits 100% since it will do something like a trickle charge. (continuously charging your battery once it drains 1% 99<->100)
b. The new MPBr chargers are using new technology which does not trickle charge the Mac. Therefore, even if i leave the charger on after fully charging my battery, it would not damage the battery. (With that being said, it is still healthy for the battery if i unplug it and do a complete drain down to like 5%)
Just wanted to clarify which is the best way to protect my battery. Which one is more accurate?
Aside from school, this macbook pro will be used somewhere close to outlets most of the time. Please let me know what's the best way to maintain the health of my battery.

Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace
some usefull, partially "ok, interesting" information on same
Gaming: In cases of heavy and frequent use in gaming it is recommended, if possible, to keep your Mac plugged in since these frequent fast and deep discharges of the battery are not ideal for battery longevity.
If you were to always keep your macbook battery floating between 20% and 80% charge roughly, then you’d have no other considerations to make about your battery and its care,… except for long-term storage.
Natural changes of capacity in lithium batteries happens when they undergo cathode degradation at roughly 20% per year where Ion exchange becomes less efficient. Mostly low draining (deep DOD) and to a much lesser degree high standing charge rates accelerate this process. Unnatural capacity for lithium battery charges changes, and chemistry changes in a lithium battery when often pushed or pulled to extremes
In a lithium battery, deep discharges alter the chemistry of the anode to take up lithium ions and slowly damages the batteries capacity for the cathode to transport lithium ions to the anode when charging, thereby reducing max charge levels in mAh. In short, radical swings of power to lithium cells disrupts the chemical ecosystem of the battery to hold charges correctly which likewise impedes the perfect transfer of lithium ions both in charging and discharging. In charging your lithium battery, lithium ions are “pushed uphill” (hard) to the anode, and discharged “downhill” (easy) to the cathode when on battery power. Deep discharges, damages this “upward” electrolyte chemistry for the battery to maintain a healthy charge and discharge balance relative to its age and cycles.
Optimally, in terms of a healthy lithium battery and its condition, it is most happy at 50% between extremes, which is why low-power-drain processors such as the Haswell are ideal on lithium battery health since a partially charged battery with a low-drain processor has, in general, much more usage in hours
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.
From BASF: How Lithium Batteries work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjyJhe7Q1g
How its made, Lithium batteries
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJrNCjVS0gk
Bad discharging or battery use conditions:
Heat (due to environmental conditions or due to rapid discharges from heavy use = gaming / video editing)
Rapid discharging of the battery frequently causes chemical changes over time in the battery leading to decreased capacity and resistance of current flow.
The very worst use of your battery is often draining the battery very low, and worse still letting it remain in such a state.
*Most long-term rapid damage to the battery occurs from discharging it with high loading (gaming) conditions but paramount is avoiding deep and frequent low DOD (depths of discharge) in use.
Undesirable charging or charged conditions:
High perpetual SOC (state of charge), where the battery is always or very often connected to charge
Parasitic loading where the battery is both usually on and charging or worse both always charging and in sleep mode, since this induces mini-cycling of the battery.
Bad general handling conditions:
Temperature use conditions when either too hot (95F and above) or too cold (50F and below)
Storing your battery away with a low charge (40% and less) long-term.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little to no importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.

My mac book pro is on, but the power light indicator is not on, the battery charging light is not on, and the computer is making a whirring sound, what is wrong

My mac book pro is working, but my power light is off, the battery power light is not on and my battery power symbol is a black x. My computer is making a whirring sound sort of like it does when loading a CD. I had a hard time getting the computer to turn on, used the command, option, P and R buttons to turn in on. I have tried restart, but I still get the whirring sound. What is wrong and what do I do?

Didn't do an SMC reset. But in attempting to find out about what that was I found some things to try first. Also, when I went to system preferences - hardware, I couldn't find anything regarding power and battery info. Finally, I unplugged the computer for several seconds, then shut it down, removed the battery, put the battery back in. Then I turned on the computer, plugged in the power cord. Problem solved- no whirring sound, battery charging light is on.
Thanks for getting me in the right direction.

I have mainstage 3 installed and works 1oo% when connected to the battery, but when connecting to the mains for charging the program crashes. sounds do not obey. is one, even very bad horrible latency. and I need to work on music not only in time but the

i have mainstage 3 installed and works 1oo% when connected to the battery, but when connecting to the mains for charging the program crashes. sounds do not obey. is one, even very bad horrible latency.
and I need to work on music not only in time but the battery after that.
I ask for help please

Thanks for the swift reply, I have been looking online and a loose plug seems to be somewhat of an issue with many, I hope mine is actually a problem and not what others are experiencing. It's taken me this long to even reach out for the simple fact I HATE being a complainer but this is just horrible.
Do you have an iPad 3 as well? And is yours not experiencing any issues close to mine?
Thanks again!

MacBook 13" will only charge battery when on and open. why?

Hello,
My white 13" Macbook, model number A1181, will only charge the battery when the computer is on and open. If i close the screen down, the light on the AC adapter will go off about 2 seconds later, and will stop charging the battery or giving any power to the computer. When i try to start up the computer without the battery in, it will not start up.
When I attach the AC adapter to the computer and it is not open, or not on, there is just a faint green light on the AC adapters LED light. About 1/4 the normal brightness.
Also, a few days ago, the computer would randomly shut down when it was plugged into the AC adapter to charge my battery. I was surfing the web and it shut down three separate times. All while the AC adapter was in. After i took the AC adapter out, it stopped randomly shutting down.
I went to a friends house who has the same mac laptop, and have swapped out his battery and his AC adapter with mine in every combination and everything operates in the same way: not able to turn my computer on with his adapter plugged in and the battery out and a 1/4 as bright green light when the AC adapter is plugged in and the computer is off or the screen is shut. My AC adapter functions perfectly with his computer, as does my battery, perfectly normal.
I thought it might have been the DC in board, so i replaced that myself with a part i ordered online, and it was not the DC-in board, same problems persist.
It seems it must be something on the logic board that has shorted out or broken that routes the power when the computer is without battery, shut, or shut down. and there must be a separate line going to the battery charger, which is why that aspect of the computer is still able to function. this means however that my only option to keep using the computer is to keep the battery relatively full and NEVER let it drain anywhere near low, as i would not be able to boot it back up again if it fully drained.
Is this problem indicative that the whole system is on the way out? or might i get a few more months out of this thing by just charging the battery while it is open, and while im working? Any idea what this problem might be? It is past even the 3 year extended apple care plan we had, so that is not an option.
Saw someone post something similar to this in another thread where the power information was requested. Here is mine:
thanks for any help
Battery Information:
Model Information:
Serial Number: DP-ASMB016-371d-4927
Manufacturer: DP
Device name: ASMB016
Pack Lot Code: 0002
PCB Lot Code: 0000
Firmware Version: 102a
Hardware Revision: 0500
Cell Revision: 0102
Charge Information:
Charge remaining (mAh): 4468
Fully charged: No
Charging: Yes
Full charge capacity (mAh): 4771
Health Information:
Cycle count: 307
Condition: Good
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): -737
Voltage (mV): 12333
System Power Settings:
AC Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 0
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 0
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 25
Automatic Restart On Power Loss: No
Wake On AC Change: No
Wake On Clamshell Open: Yes
Wake On LAN: Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes
Battery Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 0
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 0
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 15
Wake On AC Change: No
Wake On Clamshell Open: Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes
Reduce Brightness: Yes
Hardware Configuration:
UPS Installed: No
AC Charger Information:
Connected: Yes
Charging: Yes
--------------------------------------

You seem to have narrowed it down to a logic board issue. You can try resetting the SMC:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964?viewlocale=en_US
And the PRAM:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1379
But it sounds like either an expensive repair or a new Mac is in your future. Make sure you're keeping regular backups.

Kaputt battery charge meter, and no sound

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