Keep need to reset audio drivers

After about 5 seconds of playing I loose my M Audio Keystation 49e...(garage band stops recognizing my keyboard) I go to preference and hit reset midi drivers,,It then says if the prob continues check connections cables.I did all that and got new cables but the prob continues. Sometimes I would hit one note and the garage band pad would sustain the note even if I'm not playing. Once I hit another track the pad quits but i loose my midi keyboard and I have to reset it all over again....
Im using Garage 10.0.2 this prob did not occur with the earlier version.

Similar Messages

Why do I need to keep resetting MIDI drivers in Logic 9.1.1?

I went from Logic 9.1 to Logic 9.1.1 last week and since doing that I keep on losing my MIDI connection. This never happened to me in Logic 9.1. But now in Logic 9.1.1, in the middle of working or any time I come back to the computer after a while I will need to reset the MIDI Drivers in order to get any MIDI back for my master controller. I get no error messages. The MIDI just doesn't show up until I reset the driver. I am using the Unitor interface for MIDI and have the recent Unitor update. Any thoughts on this matter are appreciated.

It's not a Logic problem. I don't think it's a driver problem either, I think it's an OS X problem. This happens to me with other DAWs (different MIDI interface, though). Open up the "Audio MIDI Setup.app" and see if your interface is dimmed when this happens. Clicking "rescan" should enable it again.
I have heard of several people with this problem (not all using Logic), from RME to E-Mu to Presonus, and others. The only thing they all had in common was that they were all USB interfaces.

No audio, after factory reset,flash install,SoundMax & HDA audio drivers won't install

My problems are:
No sound with Youtube or the laptop itself
SoundMax won't install either though I downloaded HDA audio drivers it requested.
Flash download stuffed up my SoundMax after factory reset.
I decided to do a factory reset after Youtube starting slowing down. After reset it (Youtube) kind of worked better
then the audio disappeared from the laptop. The drivers, SoundMax Audio was gone (greyed out).
I downloaded the Audio driver from Lenovo website for my X31 but SoundMax install wouldn't install because it kept saying HDA Audio drivers weren't installed.
I downloaded it from here:
http://support.lenovo.com/en_AU/research/hints-or-tips/detail.page?&DocID=HT072373
So I went to HP site to download HDA audio drivers, then the SoundMax Audio reappeared and I had sound on my computer.
HDA Audio drivers link at HP website (since Lenovo doesn't have it):
http://h20565.www2.hp.com/portal/site/hpsc/template.PAGE/public/psi/swdDetails/?cc=US&lang=en&swItem...
When I downloaded latest Adobe Flash, the SoundMax Audio disappeared again. So at the moment I have Youtube video without sound (and Firefox keeps telling me to download Flash?)
No sound on IE as well.
Would appreciate your help. Thank you very much.
I'm using:
ThinkPad X31 (2673-QU6)
Based on 2673-N7G
Win XP Pro Service 3 with recent updates
Firefox (latest) with add-ons
Solved!
Go to Solution.

You need to install the modem driver too.
http://support.lenovo.com/en_AU/research/hints-or-tips/detail.page?&DocID=HT072373
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

Ethernet adapter keeps needing to be reset in Windows 8.1

I am running Windows 8.1 on a Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 15" which has Mavericks installed. I am using the Broadcom NetExtreme Gigabit Ethernet driver (15.6.1.3) provided through Bootcamp 5.1. Eventually, during use, Ethernet connectivity will be lost, and I will need to reset the adapter. I have done this using the troubleshooting section of the Network And Sharing Center Control Panel, manually in the command prompt (ipconfig / release followed by ipconfig /renew), or by disabling and enabling the driver in Device Manager. All three methods get ethernet back but it will eventually drop out again. Usually, but not always, when this happens the indicator lights on the gigabit switch that my cable is connected to will blink rapidly even though there is no traffic. It happens much more frequently if I am streaming audio/video or copying a large file from other computers on my network. One time it kept happening over and over and I had to restart Windows to stop it. I have never had any issues like this booted as a Mac, and my network is fine. Other devices can copy files and use the internet, so I don't think it is an issue with my switch, modem, or router. Are there any changes to settings for the driver in Device Manager that would cure this? Or is there another solution? Thanks!

If I understand you I believe I have lost connectivity to both layers. I have lost connectivity while downloading (especially while streaming) from the internet, and also while transferring data between this computer and another one on the network. My network is a simple home network with everyone on the same node (WORKGROUP). All of my other computers are Macs just running some flavor of OSX. Unfortunately I don't have another Windows PC to test with.
I did not think to test for network connectivity after losing internet connectivity. Unfortunately, although the symptom eventually will occur, I don't know when. I can't do X and always get Y. I've streamed for 10 minutes or an hour before it happens, which make diagnosis tricky.
The only commonality seems to be data load, i.e. if I am streaming or copying large data files. If it was OSX I would look at clearing caches or running Onyx, but my Windows chops are not as deep.
Could dealing with packet sizes be an issue? Thanks for responding and have a Happy Thanksgiving.

WRT610N keeps needing to be reset

Hi,
My WRT610N wireless router keeps needing to be reset to be able to connect to the internet. I updated the firmware about two weeks ago and things were going great again until a day or so ago, then it started cutting out multiple times a day. I checked and there doesnt seem to be any new firmware, so now I'm at a loss as to what I need to do to fix this.
I have 3-4 computers connecting to it at a time (1 xp pc, 1 vista pc, 1-2 laptops with vista i think). Even when its just the two pcs using it, it stll disconnects.
One thing to note that has happened multiple times: the two pc's both have everquest 2 running on them, and it seems when one is logged into the game, and the other starts to log in to them (it will almost be logged in, on a loading game resources screen) the wireless router will need to be reset. This has happened enough times to make me think theres something to it.
Also, there have been a couple times when after resetting and getting it working, there will be a message that pops up about having conflicting ips, then that message goes away.

I think it a problem with firmware of your Router, you need to upgrade the firmware of your Router..
Go to website linksysbycisco.com/downloads.........insert model no of your router in search tab......select proper version of your router........download the firmware file......save that file on desktop
Firmware Upgrade/Reflash
Follow these steps to upgrade the firmware on the device : -
Open an Internet Explorer browser page on a computer hard wired to the router...
In the address bar type - 192.168.1.1...Leave the Username blank & in Password use admin in lower case...
Click on the 'Administration' tab- Then click on the 'Firmware Upgrade' sub tab- Here click on 'Browse' and browse the .bin firmware file and click on "Upgrade"...
Wait for few seconds until it shows that "Upgrade is successful" After the firmware upgrade, click on "Reboot" and you will be returned back to the same page OR it will say "Page cannot be displayed".
Now reset your router :
Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds...Release the reset button...Unplug the power cable from your router, wait for 30 seconds and re-connect the power cable...Now re-configure your router...

Garage band wont work, need to install midi or audio drivers?

tried backing up my comp to install OSX leopard but failed. now garage band wont work! I keep getting this message...also want to know if its possible to upgrade to osx leopard with a 4th gen macbook that runs osx 10.4.11
*garageband has detected a possible conflict between one or more third party midi or audio drivers.*
Be sure to install the latest drivers for all audio and MIDI equipment connected to your computer. For instructions on removing older drivers, consult the manufacturers' documentation.

Im having the same problem, I upgraded my IMAC and was using tiger and I upgraded it to MAC 10.5.7, now GarageBand wont work saying my midi and audio drivers arent correct. My Reason 4.0 wont start either saying the same thing failed to open the midi library. My Protools works fine but I dont know how to update the audio and midi drivers that it matches the software I uploaded. I also went to the audio midi set up and it read, Audio MIDI Setup was unable to launch the MIDI Server. This means that you will be unable to view or edit your MIDI configurations.
Improperly written MIDI drivers can prevent the MIDI Server from launching successfully. If you have recently installed a new MIDI driver, try uninstalling it and then relaunching Audio MIDI Setup. If Audio MIDI Setup works correctly after that, then please contact the driver's manufacturer for further support.

Need audio drivers for hp media center pc m7780n that works on windows 7 ultimate 64 bit

need drivers that works on windows 7 ultimate 64 bit.

Hi:
You can download the latest audio drivers from the Realtek site below. Accept the agreement. Download and install the first one on the list.
http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/downloadsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownT...
Paul

HT4623 My iphone 3gs has downloaded to the ios6 and it keep shutting down i need to reset it back to its former 3gs setting how do i do this

My iphone 3gs has downloaded to the ios6 and it keep shutting down i need to reset it back to its former 3gs setting how do i do this

USB connection to iTunes. Back up your 3GS with your last 3GS back up. DON'T use an iPhone 4 back up or higher. It will cause exactly this.

Need Win7 64Bit Beats Audio Drivers for Envy Touchsmart after Win8 Downgrade

Hi All,
I must have read 100 threads and downloaded about that many IDT Audio Drivers in an attempt to install the beats control panel for Win7.
My Serial # is[Personal Information Removed]. Product # is E6G27PA#ABG
I've managed to get all the Win7 drivers for all other products, and whilst the sound is working its usuing the defauly Audio driver and thus not making use of the subwoofer or other fancy beats devices.
Can anybody recommended the correct driver for this model under Win7? Everyone I've tried has just led me either back to the default windows one or won't install properly.
Cheers,
AB

Hi:
I believe this one will work...
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareDownloadIndex?softwareitem=ob-107964-1&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en...

My iTunes keeps saying i need to reset and update my iPod touch 4th gen, and ive done it atleast 10 times, and everytime when its done resetting itself, it says it again... help!

i dont know why but everytime i plug in my ipod touch it needs to reset, i cant even use it now. any suggestions?

Error 13 and 14: These errors are typically resolved by performing one or more of the steps listed below:
Perform USB isolation troubleshooting, including trying a different USB port directly on the computer. See the advanced steps below for USB troubleshooting.
Put a USB 2.0 hub between the device and the computer.
Try a different USB 30-pin dock-connector cable.
Eliminate third-party security software conflicts.
There may be third-party software installed that modifies your default packet size in Windows by inserting one or more TcpWindowSize entries into your registry. Your default packet size being set incorrectly can cause this error. Contact the manufacturer of the software that installed the packet-size modification for assistance. Or, follow this article by Microsoft: How to reset Internet Protocol (TCP/IP) to reset the packet size back to the default for Windows.
Connect your computer directly to your Internet source, bypassing any routers, hubs, or switches. You may need to restart your computer and modem to get online.
Try to restore from another known-good computer and network.
Above is from the same article I provided above.

A quick primer on audio drivers, devices, and latency

This information has come from Durin, Adobe staffer:
Hi everyone,
A common question that comes up in these forums over and over has to do with recording latency, audio drivers, and device formats. I'm going to provide a brief overview of the different types of devices, how they interface with the computer and Audition, and steps to maximize performance and minimize the latency inherent in computer audio.
First, a few definitions:
Monitoring: listening to existing audio while simultaneously recording new audio.
Sample: The value of each individual bit of audio digitized by the audio device. Typically, the audio device measures the incoming signal 44,100 or 48,000 times every second.
Buffer Size: The "bucket" where samples are placed before being passed to the destination. An audio application will collect a buffers-worth of samples before feeding it to the audio device for playback. An audio device will collect a buffers-worth of samples before feeding it to the audio device when recording. Buffers are typically measured in Samples (command values being 64, 128, 512, 1024, 2048...) or milliseconds which is simply a calculation based on the device sample rate and buffer size.
Latency: The time span that occurs between providing an input signal into an audio device (through a microphone, keyboard, guitar input, etc) and when each buffers-worth of that signal is provided to the audio application. It also refers to the other direction, where the output audio signal is sent from the audio application to the audio device for playback. When recording while monitoring, the overall perceived latency can often be double the device buffer size.
ASIO, MME, CoreAudio: These are audio driver models, which simply specify the manner in which an audio application and audio device communicate. Apple Mac systems use CoreAudio almost exclusively which provides for low buffer sizes and the ability to mix and match different devices (called an Aggregate Device.) MME and ASIO are mostly Windows-exclusive driver models, and provide different methods of communicating between application and device. MME drivers allow the operating system itself to act as a go-between and are generally slower as they rely upon higher buffer sizes and have to pass through multiple processes on the computer before being sent to the audio device. ASIO drivers provide an audio application direct communication with the hardware, bypassing the operating system. This allows for much lower latency while being limited in an applications ability to access multiple devices simultaneously, or share a device channel with another application.
Dropouts: Missing audio data as a result of being unable to process an audio stream fast enough to keep up with the buffer size. Generally, dropouts occur when an audio application cannot process effects and mix tracks together quickly enough to fill the device buffer, or when the audio device is trying to send audio data to the application more quickly than it can handle it. (Remember when Lucy and Ethel were working at the chocolate factory and the machine sped up to the point where they were dropping chocolates all over the place? Pretend the chocolates were samples, Lucy and Ethel were the audio application, and the chocolate machine is the audio device/driver, and you'll have a pretty good visualization of how this works.)
Typically, latency is not a problem if you're simply playing back existing audio (you might experience a very slight delay between pressing PLAY and when audio is heard through your speakers) or recording to disk without monitoring existing audio tracks since precise timing is not crucial in these conditions. However, when trying to play along with a drum track, or sing a harmony to an existing track, or overdub narration to a video, latency becomes a factor since our ears are far more sensitive to timing issues than our other senses.   If a bass guitar track is not precisely aligned with the drums, it quickly sounds sloppy. Therefore, we need to attempt to reduce latency as much as possible for these situations. If we simply set our Buffer Size parameter as low as it will go, we're likely to experience dropouts - especially if we have some tracks configured with audio effects which require additional processing and contribute their own latency to the chain. Dropouts are annoying but not destructive during playback, but if dropouts occur on the recording stream, it means you're losing data and your recording will never sound right - the data is simply lost.   Obviously, this is not good.
Latency under 40ms is generally considered within the range of reasonable for recording. Some folks can hear even this and it affects their ability to play, but most people find this unnoticeable or tolerable. We can calculate our approximate desired buffer size with this formula:
(Sample per second / 1000) * Desired Latency
So, if we are recording at 44,100 Hz and we are aiming for 20ms latency:   44100 / 1000 * 20 = 882 samples. Most audio devices do not allow arbitrary buffer sizes but offer an array of choices, so we would select the closest option. The device I'm using right now offers 512 and 1024 samples as the closest available buffer sizes, so I would select 512 first and see how this performs. If my session has a lot of tracks and/or several effects, I might need to bump this up to 1024 if I experience dropouts.
Now that we hopefully have a pretty firm understanding of what constitutes latency and under what circumstances it is undesirable, let's take a look at how we can reduce it for our needs. You may find that you continue to experience dropouts at a buffer size of 1024 but that raising it to larger options introduces too much latency for your needs. So we need to determine what we can do to reduce our overhead in order to have quality playback and recording at this buffer size.
Effects: A common cause of playback latency is the use of effects. As your audio stream passes through an effect, it takes time for the computer to perform the calculations to modify that signal. Each effect in a chain introduces its own amount of latency before the chunk of audio even reaches the point where the audio application passes it to the audio device and starts to fill up the buffer. Audition and other DAWs attempt to address this through "latency compensation" routines which introduce a bit more latency when you first press play as they process several seconds of audio ahead of time before beginning to stream those chunks to the audio driver. In some cases, however, the effects may be so intensive that the CPU simply isn't processing the math fast enough.   With Audition, you can "freeze" or pre-render these tracks by clicking the small lightning bolt button visible in the Effects Rack with that track selected. This performs a background render of that track, which automatically updates if you make any changes to the track or effect parameters, so that instead of calculating all those changes on-the-fly, it simply needs to stream back a plain old audio file which requires much fewer system resources. You may also choose to disable certain effects, or temporarily replace them with alternatives which may not sound exactly like what you want for your final mix, but which adequately simulate the desired effect for the purpose of recording.   (You might replace the CPU-intensive Full Reverb effect with the lightweight Studio Reverb effect, for example. Full Reverb effect is mathematically far more accurate and realistic, but Studio Reverb can provide that quick "body" you might want when monitoring vocals, for example.) You can also just disable the effects for a track or clip while recording, and turn them on later.
Device and Driver Options: Different devices may have wildly different performance at the same buffer size and with the same session. Audio devices designed primarily for gaming are less likely to perform well at low buffer sizes as those designed for music production, for example. Even if the hardware performs the same, the driver mode may be a source of latency. ASIO is almost always faster than MME, though many device manufacturers do not supply an ASIO driver. The use of third-party, device-agnostic drivers, such as ASIO4ALL (www.asio4all.com) allow you to wrap an MME-only device inside a faux-ASIO shell. The audio application believes it's speaking to an ASIO driver, and ASIO4ALL has been streamlined to work more quickly with the MME device, or even to allow you to use different inputs and outputs on separate devices which ASIO would otherwise prevent.
We also now see more USB microphone devices which are input-only audio devices that generally use a generic Windows driver and, with a few exceptions, rarely offer native ASIO support. USB microphones generally require a higher buffer size as they are primarily designed for recording in cases where monitoring is unimportant. When attempting to record via a USB microphone and monitor via a separate audio device, you're more likely to run into issues where the two devices are not synchronized or drift apart after some time. (The ugly secret of many device manufacturers is that they rarely operate at EXACTLY the sample rate specified. The difference between 44,100 and 44,118 Hz is negligible when listening to audio, but when trying to precisely synchronize to a track recorded AT 44,100, the difference adds up over time and what sounded in sync for the first minute will be wildly off-beat several minutes later.) You are almost always going to have better sync and performance with a standard microphone connected to the same device you're using for playback, and for serious recording, this is the best practice. If USB microphones are your only option, then I would recommend making certain you purchase a high-quality one and have an equally high-quality playback device. Attempt to match the buffer sizes and sample rates as closely as possible, and consider using a higher buffer size and correcting the latency post-recording. (One method of doing this is to have a click or clap at the beginning of your session and make sure this is recorded by your USB microphone. After you finish your recording, you can visually line up the click in the recorded track with the click in the original track by moving your clip backwards in the timeline. This is not the most efficient method, but this alignment is the reason you see the clapboards in behind-the-scenes filmmaking footage.)
Other Hardware: Other hardware in your computer plays a role in the ability to feed or store audio data quickly. CPUs are so fast, and with multiple cores, capable of spreading the load so often the bottleneck for good performance - especially at high sample rates - tends to be your hard drive or storage media. It is highly recommended that you configure your temporary files location, and session/recording location, to a physical drive that is NOT the same as you have your operating system installed. Audition and other DAWs have absolutely no control over what Windows or OS X may decide to do at any given time and if your antivirus software or system file indexer decides it's time to start churning away at your hard drive at the same time that you're recording your magnum opus, you raise the likelihood of losing some of that performance. (In fact, it's a good idea to disable all non-essential applications and internet connections while recording to reduce the likelihood of external interference.) If you're going to be recording multiple tracks at once, it's a good idea to purchase the fastest hard drive your budget allows. Most cheap drives spin around 5400 rpm, which is fine for general use cases but does not allow for the fast read, write, and seek operations the drive needs to do when recording and playing back from multiple files simultaneously. 7200 RPM drives perform much better, and even faster options are available. While fragmentation is less of a problem on OS X systems, you'll want to frequently defragment your drive on Windows frequently - this process realigns all the blocks of your files so they're grouped together. As you write and delete files, pieces of each tend to get placed in the first location that has room. This ends up creating lots of gaps or splitting files up all over the disk. The act of reading or writing to these spread out areas cause the operation to take significantly longer than it needs to and can contribute to glitches in playback or loss of data when recording.

There is one point in the above that needed a little clarification, relating to USB mics:
_durin_ wrote:
If USB microphones are your only option, then I would recommend making certain you purchase a high-quality one and have an equally high-quality playback device.
If you are going to spend that much, then you'd be better off putting a little more money into an external device with a proper mic pre, and a little less money by not bothering with a USB mic at all, and just getting a 'normal' condensor mic. It's true to say that over the years, the USB mic class of recording device has caused more trouble than any other, regardless.
You should also be aware that if you find a USB mic offering ASIO support, then unless it's got a headphone socket on it as well then you aren't going to be able to monitor what you record if you use it in its native ASIO mode. This is because your computer can only cope with one ASIO device in the system - that's all the spec allows. What you can do with most ASIO hardware though is share multiple streams (if the device has multiple inputs and outputs) between different software.
Seriously, USB mics are more trouble than they're worth.

New Nforce audio drivers?

I noticed that nvidia have done a special release of just their audio drivers, has anyone tried these on the neo2, does it solve problems as they say it does?
http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_audio_4.57_win2kxp
there are no READMEs or instructions telling you how to install it.
very strange.. probably a reaction to pressure from the half life 2 people..
you can tell it has been done in a hurry because the "installation hints" tell you to uninstall your DISPLAY driver first hehe.
I guess it will give a similar benefits to that Bas described earlier when he did the same thing manually.

Quote
Originally posted by Rafterman
I do not use the onboard sound but AFAIK imapi is a part of the Windows O/S, and has got to do with image mastering that applies to CD recording. If you are using a burner then you probably do need it.
No, this is a new service. The service that you are referring too is called "IMAPI CD-Burning Com Service". That service is required (though it can stay in manual) and is part of XP and came from Microsoft.
However, after installing the new Nvidia audio driver, a new service was added, called "Imapi Helper". This service is not part of XP, and did not exist on my system prior to installing this nvidia audio driver (I keep very close tabs on services and the like that run on my system, and this one was not there yesterday).
Furthermore, if you go into MSconfig Services tab, and choose to hide all microsoft services, this service does not get hidden. It's not a Microsoft service, it was added by the Nvidia driver.

Solution to Sound flowers corruption of MAC Audio drivers

Solution to Sound Flower corruption of Mac Audio drivers
I recently upgraded/ repaired my 2011 Mac Book Pro. I went from 4GB to 16 GB of ram. I also removed the Super Drive and 750 GB dual partition hard drive. I replace them with a 2tb single partition drive for the MAC OS system, and a 480 dual partition SSD drive. I allocated 450 for the Boot camp PC drive and remainder for an SSD Mac OS drive. During this process, I also repaired my corrupted Mac Audio drivers. Here is how I repaired them.
#1………..You will need a bootable external hard drive which contains a current copy of your Applications, Data, and Network settings. You should already have this drive or drives with partitions containing boot PC boot camp and Mac OS. If you do not, you need to make one now.
I used Carbon Copy V5 to make a bootable copy of Mac OS and WinClone 4 to make a bootable copy of PC partition.
It does not matter that the Mac Drivers are currently corrupted if you are making a bootable copy of your internal drive. Just created the external bootable drive. For me, a nearly full 750GB drive took me over 4 hours to create.
#2……….Once the external bootable drive is created, you will need to restart your computer while holding down the option key. When it asks which drive to boot from, choose the External Mac recovery drive. Make sure this new drive is working properly and all your information is there.
#3……….Now that you are operating from external drive, use disk utility to select the internal mac OS drive and erase it. I have a separate drive for My PC boot camp, so I will keep this as a single partition drive for Mac OS.
#4………Download a new copy of the MAC OS system onto internal drive. During this process DO NOT sign in into you Apple Id account. At this point you do not want Applications or data moving over onto your new Mac OS. Once installation is done, restart computer.
#5…….The computer will now boot from the internal drive. You should see basic Applications in Launch Pad. Go ahead and play something from the internet ….you will notice your Mac audio drivers have been restored.
#6 …….Now it is time to add your Applications you have purchase over the years. Without bringing over Sound Flower App or its Folder. You do this by opening up an Apps windows for the internal Mac drive and another one for the external Mac drive. At this point you will manually drag all Apps from external drive to internal drive. However take your time and DO NOT dray over the sound flower app or its folder. If there are other Apps you to leave behind, do not drag them onto the new internal drive. Once you have verified you dragged over the Apps, restart your computer
#7 ………At this juncture, you can now use the migration assistant to move over your data and network settings. Just be sure to uncheck the migrate Applications box. If you forget, you are screwed and must start all over. I know from experience. Note the migration of data and network settings took me about three hours.
Final step …….Now that your Audio drivers, Applications, Data, and network settings are restored, you need to schedule time to update your external bootable Mac OS drive, so it no longer contains corrupt Audio drivers. Now enjoy your computer and pass solution on.
Xie xie
Dmatcyt

Ahh... Sorry for that. That's true. I took it for granted before checking Apple Specs.
So, What's about audio in specs of 15-inch MacBook Pro (MD103LL/A)?

I need to reset my time capsule/airport every day - time capsule has green light but I don't see any wifi signal on my mac and other computers.

as many of you do, I use time capsule as airport, too...
It worked fine for 6 months or so after I bought the new time capsule. (I bought it in September 2012.)
Since the beginning of this year, I had to reset, and power off and plug it in almost every week, then now I need to reset and power off and back on again every day...
When I first set up the time capsule, I followed the instruction with the manual.
But, now I am so lost and don't want to reset every day for wifi connection.
Anyone has problem like me or knows how to solve this issue?
Please help..
I have MacBook Pro OS X 10.8.4 & my roommates have PCs. (just in case if it helps...)

For PC it is important the wireless has names that are compatible.. short.. like 10 characters.. but 2-20 is fine. no spaces.. and pure alphanumeric.
Use WPA2 personal only.. with pure alphanumeric password .. again 10-20 characters should be fine.
The latest firmware is a dud. Go back to 7.6.1
Open the airport utility.. click on the TC and holding the option key click the actual version number..
Go back to 7.6.1 is simple.. just select it and away it will go.. ignore future requests for upgrade.. you can also tell the utility not to check weekly for updates. You will need 5.6 utility for this I think..
So do the firmware downgrade.
Then do a factory reset and follow the name information above.. for TC name as well btw.. wireless name/s and disk share name.. which by default is data and that is fine.
So some instructions in...
The Factory Reset.
Power down the TC.
Hold in reset. and keep holding it in. Be Gentle! It is a tiny surface mount switch with a plastic lever.. Attempting to push it out the other side of the TC will not make the switch turn on better.
(I fix TC and have several reset levers bent over and jammed or broken off).
Power on the TC.. remember with the reset held in.. this needs three arms.. a friend or power switch you can get to with your feet..
Keep holding in reset for about 10sec until the front LED flashes rapidly.
Release reset and wait .. the boot will be slow as it deletes previous setting.. only from router side and pulls out the factory defaults. No files are deleted on the hard disk.. but the name of the TC may change.
How to load 5.6 into ML.
1. Download 5.6 for Lion.
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1482
Click to open the dmg but do not attempt to install the pkg.. it won't work anyway.
Leave the package open on the desktop so you can see the file. AirportUtility56.pkg
2. Download and install unpkg.
http://www.timdoug.com/unpkg/
Run unpkg on the desktop.. If your Mac refuses to run the software, because it wasn’t downloaded from the Apple store, go to security in preferences and allow other software to work.. this is limitation of trade methinks. You can set back later if you like.
Now drag the AirPortUtility56.pkg file over to unpkg.. and it will create a new directory of the same name on the desktop.. in finder, open the new directory, drill down.. applications, utilities .. there lo and behold is Airport utility 5.6 .. drag it to your main utilities directory or just run it from current location.
You cannot uninstall version 6 (now 6.3 if you updated) so don't try.. and you cannot or should not run them both at the same time.. although I have had no problems when doing so.
You can also load airport utility into a pc and get access to all the settings. Untick the box for firmware updates.. it will still bug you occasionally.. regardless of the setting.. just ignore it..
You might still need to do the occasional reboot of the TC as well.

I need to download dell drivers to a jumpdrive connected to my iMac. Will this cause problems with my Mac?

I need to download dell drivers to a jumpdrive connected to my iMac. Will this cause problems with my Mac?

Thanks. These drivers are for the audio, etc. for a dell laptop I purchased used. ( Needed something cheap for a training video that would only run on Windows. Tried Emedia player but picture was too fuzzy.) Dell support said I should contact Apple support for instructions on how to get the drivers onto the jumpdrive. Any tips on doing that?

Keep need to reset audio drivers

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