Keeping Macbook Pro Awake While Display Closed?

Is there any way for me to stay connected to the internet while closing the display all the way in order to prevent any damage to the screen? Everytime that I close the display, the computer kicks me off the internet. Is it unhealthy to stay connected?
Macbook Pro 15" Mac OS X (10.4.6)
Macbook Pro 15" Mac OS X (10.4.6)

check this out !
SleepLess....
http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/10564
short Info
This application is used to prevent the computer from going to sleep without changing system settings.
ATTENTION! Using your Mac with closed lid can lead to serious system heat problems!
Requirements
Mac OS X 10.3 and later (PPC processor)
Mac OS X 10.4 and later (Intel processor)
can disable sleep with lid closed
one click activation / deactivation
menu icon with commands menu
no processor time waste
MBP 2.0 15" Mac OS X (10.4.6)

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Keeping Macbook Pro awake for backup

Hi... I am backing up to my cloud drive online and it said it might take a long time so I'm going to keep my macbook pro awake overnight. I set the toggle to "never sleep" for computer but does it matter what the display is on? Meaning if the display is off will it still back up? Thanks!

Are you sure? When I go to my macbook pro with the display off and wake it up the device says it's "not connected" until it connects to the wifi... it's taking a long time to load to the drive. :/ Not sure if it's worth keeping the cloud drive...I know Time Machine didn't even take this long for me and it was backing up ALL of my computer. I'm only backing up sections of my computer and it's taking a long time...I know it's using online connection but my online connection isn't even that slow, lol.

Keep Macbook Pro w/Retina Display?

So I recently went out and purchased (not even a week ago) a Mid Tier, Mid 2014
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check out since it had display issues, and they ran their test said it was fixable,
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Nice Small App To Keep MacBook Pro Running With Lid Closed

Found a nice little app, NoSleep that keeps the MacBook Pro running even when the lid is shut, so I use it alone with Caffeine and MacLock. I had found that my system was crashing on a continuing basis and with No Sleep it hasn't.

Take a look at this link, http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1776

My MacBook Pro with retina display got extremely hot while closed an in a carrying case

I have a new Macbook Pro with Retina display. I left my house at approxomately 6 p.m and I took my macbook pro with me. I put it in a protective Incase sleeve which I put in my messenger bag. When I got to my final destination about 1 hour and 40 mintutes later when I went to retrieve my macbok the entire messenger bag was hot. When I went to get the macbook out of the sleeve the actual computer was so hot I could barely touch it. I could even smell the computer (you know that new comptuter smell) standing a few feet away from it in a cafe that his good ventilation. When I left my house the battery was at 100% charge. When I discovered the computer in this state I had to hold down the power button to get it to start. When i logged in the battery was at 47%. I discovered that I left iphoto, chrome and microsoft word open. Should I be concerned? The machine was so hot that I can not imagine that if this turns into a reoccuring issue that it won't damage the computer. I wonder what would of happened had I not discovered it.

When it gets to a certain temperatue it would have gone into thermal shutdown, from your scenario it looks like your machine failed to enter sleep mode or power nap due to some applications that was holding it up.
as this machine was inside a sleeve and still running the machine couldn't dissipate the heat and ramped up the fans to attempt to cool itself hence the battery drain.

I have only loaded phone contacts in my new iPhone 5 and my email contacts only on my Macbook Pro with retina display contacts how can I keep them from changing my iPhone to email contacts only when I connect to iTunes please

Since purchasing a new iPhone 5 and macbook pro with retina display I have decided to keep the iPhone 5 for phone contacts only, and the macbook for email contacts only .. Is there a way for me to keep these as they are recorded on each apple product when I sync with iTunes as it has changed my iPhone and put in email contacts and thus deleted iPhone phone contacts once when I syncd thanks appreciate any help

To prevent your iPhone from automatically syncing when you plug it in, click on iTunes in the menu bar, then preferences, then "devices", then tick "prevent iPhones, iPad's and iPod's from syncing automatically".
Plug it in, then on the iPhone sync summary screen, click "info" along the top.
Make sure the "sync contacts" option is not ticked. as long as it's not ticked, then it won't sync with your mac's contacts but will still include them in backups.
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On my MacBook Pro with Retina Display, Why does the "USB Devices Disabled Unplug the device using too much power to re-enable USB devices" keep coming up after I unplugged the usb device?

On my MacBook Pro with Retina Display 15", that I purchased a few weeks ago, started coming up with the following message on my desktop:
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I unplugged the device and the message still keeps coming up.
This is what I have done so far to troubleshoot:
I shut down the laptop. When booting up I pressed the command+option+p+r at the same time. It comes up with a menu to reinstall OSX, Get help online, Run Disk Utility, etc. I choose the disk utility and repair the disk and then restarted.
The message keeps popping up and I can't seem to get rid of it. Why does the message keep popping up even though I don't have any devices hooked up to the laptop at all? Any help to reenable my usb ports and get rid of the messaage would be helpful.

I talked to Apple Support and we at least stopped the bleeding, a little bit. These are the troubleshooting steps I did before I contacted Apple Support:
1. Reinstalled OSX
2. Restore the last known good Time Machine Backup.
This did not fix my issue, so I called Apple Support and they told me this:
1. Turn Power off.
2. Wait 15 seconds.
3. Plug in Magsafe adapter.
4. Wait 15 seconds.
5. Hold down the Shift+Option+Power Button for 20-30 seconds.
6. Turn Power back on.
Ok, this stopped the bleeding a little, but as soon as I plugged in a Apple USB Superdrive
and a Apple Mini Displayport to VGA Adapter. This "USB Devices Disabled" pop-up pops up like every 30 minutes now. At least, it is not constantly popping up after I close it, so I guess it will do for the temporary. Going to contact Apple support, later, though to see what else can be done.

Restarting MacBook pro with cinema display and lid closed?

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Thanks

Thanks, I just realized that I phrased my question rather badly.
My real problem is how to start my computer without opening up the lid. I have a stand on my desk that the display is on and the macbook slides under when it's closed. Having to unplug it and pull it out every time it is shut down and needs to be started is rather a pain. The button on the side of the display seems to work for sleep/restart/shut down, but it doesn't seem to be able to start the computer once it is shut down; so my question is, is this possible?... am I dreaming?
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how to completely remove mac os and install windows 7 on macbook pro with retina display 15 inch

There's not much sense in purchasing a Mac to run only Windows on it. Keep in mind that drivers for Windows are a secondary concern for Apple. While Windows will typicall run fine, things like power managment are not optimized under Windows (you'll get less time on battery while running Windows). You will also not be able to install firmware updates. Firmware updates might be necessary whether you run Windows or OS X as they are updates to the code in your hardware and are not OS-specific. You must be running OS X in order to install a firmware update. You can do this even if you boot off of an external drive with OS X installed on it. At the very least, you should keep just a small partition for OS X on your internal drive.

Installing Windows XP on a new MacBook Pro with Retina Display.

I just purchased a new MacBook Pro with Retina display and need to install Windows XP on it so that I may run 3 Windows programs. I have watched a few videos on the internet on how to do this through Boot Camp Assistant, and it says at one point to use the driver CD from Mac to install the drivers. I did not get any CD's with my new MacBook Pro. I also saw on some of these boards that said Boot Camp does not support Windows XP. The people at the Apple store said it can run Windows XP, so I have ordered an original version.
Question 1. Does my MacBook Pro with Retina Display running OS X version 10.8.3 able to run Windows XP?
Question 2. How do I install the drivers?

Would this work? And also, what is the VM I need? Where do I get it?
Microsoft Windows XP Pro - The Professional Choice
Although replaced by Microsoft Windows Vista, Microsoft Windows XP Pro remains the most popular and widely used operating system in the world for business computer applications. While Microsoft Windows Vista does offer some cosmetic improvements and a few new features, nothing can beat Microsoft Windows XP when is comes to performance, stability and, in the case of older computers, speed.
Windows XP Professional delivers a reliable foundation you can count on to keep your computer up and running when you need it most. Not only the operating system is more reliable, it also offers features that make it much faster and easier to recover from system problems. Windows XP Professional, the new standard in reliability and performance, is designed for businesses of all sizes, and for individuals who demand the most from their computing experience. With the ultimate communication and collaboration tools, advanced laptop support, remote access capabilities, and more, Windows XP Professional helps you be more productive. Prepare yourself for the most reliable, secure, and responsive Windows yet. Windows XP Professional gives you the freedom to focus on your business and your customers.
Package Includes:
Coa Sticker Activation Key
DVD Disk
This software is 100% genuine and will validate with Microsoft. The software is new sealed OEM.
System Requirements:
AMD Athlon 64, AMD Opteron, Intel Xeon with Intel EM64T support, Intel Pentium 4 with Intel EM64T support CPUs, Core2Duo, Core2Quad, Intel I7
256 MB of RAM
1.5 GB of available hard disk space
Super VGA (800 x 600) or higher-resolution video adapter and monitor
CD-ROM or DVD drive
Keyboard and Microsoft Mouse or compatible pointing device
64-bit Device Drivers
Package Includes: A genuine COA, genuine software cd with Dell brand logo and Product Key for activation. Although this product has the Dell brand on the CD, the software installs as a full version on any system and will activate with Microsoft. This is a Full OEM Version for a clean installation. This is the full product and will load on computers that do not currently have Windows. Or, if the computer already has Windows, this version will install over your previous version and delete all files to become a brand new clean version. This product includes the Microsoft CD and Activation Product Key with COA. Boxes and manuals are not included. The manual is on the genuine disk.
Model: ZAT-00124
Manufactured by: Microsoft

MacBook Pro with Retina display in game graphics and SMC

I recently bought a MacBook Pro with retina display and started playing STC2 on it. I experienced great gameplay with maxed out graphics and 30fps, however recently the fps was down and as part of my trobleshooting I reset the SMC and that seemed to correct the issue. However the computer heats up much faster now and the fans seem to labor to keep it cool. When the fps was lower before i reset the SMC the computer did not get nearly as hot. My question is; is this the OS trying to protect the hardware from overheating or just a glitch?

Well unless you want to go through the hassle of waiting for a replacement unit you can try a few things on your own.
Make sure it is plugged in and charging (Orange LED light will indicate it is charging Green means it is fully charged)
Once it is plugged in make sure everything else is unplugged
The only thing plugged in should be the power adapter
On the left hand side of your keyboard press down and hold the Control Shift and Option Keys
While you are holding down those three keys hold down the power button as well
Hold down all 4 of these for 10 seconds
After 10 seconds let go
Try turning your mac on
If this works problem fixed!
If this does not work try calling 1-800-MYAPPLE (You get 90 days of free complimentary phone support on your product)
If you purchased AppleCare you have 3 years of it and you should have this number on hand it can really help you out
I always advise friends and family to purchase applecare if they plan on having their product longer than a year
You will get 3 years of phone support as well as hardware support
That means if you have any questions or anything goes wrong just call Apple
It also means if your computer breaks it is covered! Meaning no out of pocket expenses unless it is water or accidental damage
You may really want to look into purchasing applecare

Which MacBook Pro with retina display ( 13 inch or 15 inch ? )

I can't decide which MacBook with retina display to buy. I'm switching to a Mac from a PC, but I am used to the Mac platform. So far I'm am thinking that, I will choose the 15 inch model, if apple would lower the price a lot at the upcoming event WWDC 2013. But I would consider buy the 13 inch if apple rises the processor speed, offer more ram, and ssd, while keeping the same price.
The 15 inch MacBook offers:
An extra 2 inches of screen space
Much faster ( quad core vs dual core )
The 13 inch MacBook provides
A compact design
Dual core
13 inches
$1000 less
For full comparison visit: http://www.apple.com/macbook-pro/specs-retina/
I will be useing this Mac for
Ios application developing ( Xcode, ios simulator ),
Home use
Web searching
Sometimes at school
Utilities
And other usual stuff.
So overall,
I won't be carrying this around much,
I will do lots of web searching and app developing,
And utilities and other usual stuff
And a need for extra screen space for more room when I'm web searching and app developing.
What do think? Also, would you reccomended any extra features ( extra ram, ssd, or a higher processor) for my needs. This will be a great help, thank you. Ps. I have my fingers crossed for a new MacBook Pro lineup and WWDC 2013. I hope to see upgrades for the MacBook Pro with retina display, apple.

Hi,
I am a researcher so I store a lot of papers, data, and use numerical software. I have had a 17inch high spec macbook pro for over a year now. I find that apart from the large screen, it was unnecessary to get the high specs. This is why. Firstly, the hard drive is easy to replace and upgrade, apple charge a lot for their own ones. Secondly, the ram in my one was upgradable (which i didnt know when i bought it) and i since upgraded to 16gigs from 8 and its amazing. Thirdly, the newer macbook pros run hotter than the previous ones.
The retina is overrated and the programs for retina need more memory and processing power, so what you find is that your hard drive will get taken over sooner, your mac will run hotter, and battery life lower.
I would say to you, dont worry about the processor speed, the normal speed offered is perfect, more than that is not necessary unless you are running highly demanding apps, the mac will run hotter too. Dont bother getting a large hard drive in the macbook. Get a flash SSD drive, and buy a good portable 2tb HD, like a WD one, and use that to store as much of your work as possible. I believe apple started soldering their ram cards to the motherboard or something so that people cant upgrade. Check in advance and see if the macbook you want can be ram upgradable, then get a lower ram model and buy good 8gb ram cards to make 16gig. Very very easy to install them, took me about two minutes to do mine, it will be much cheaper.
If I think of anything else i will post back. Dont forget to install GFX card status too and use integrated only when on battery, i get up to ten hours of battery life without wifi, around 8 with wifi.
edit. I forgot to mention that if you buy your mac and try to open it you will void the warranty.

HT4110 What is the best battery setting for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display?

I want to know the best setting for the battery for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display.

To add just a little
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
And best "tip" is if its near a socket,...plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)", however again, not plugged in all or most of the time.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace

HT3382 Connect from a MacBook Pro's mini display port to a Display Port monitor?

Hello everyone,
Is it possible to connect from a MacBook Pro's mini display port to a Display Port monitor with resolutions higher than 1920 x 1200? It seems Apple does not supply a mini-DP to DP adapter.
However, just as they do not make a mini-DP to HDMI adapter, but they do recommend a Belkin product for this purpose.
Is there any reason that a mini-DP to DP adapter or cable wouldn't work and support high resolutions?
Thanks for your feedback!

danz0r wrote:
Hey tjk,
Thanks for the response.
Do you have any recommendations for a potential set up? The audio output and Apple DVI are on different sides of my MBP, which is alright, I guess I can get two long cables to handle each. I was hoping to just have my MBP closer to where I use it, with a cord nearby plugged in on one side to the HDTV and resting near where I keep my MBP for when I want to use the HDTV as an external monitor.
With a converter like this, you can run video out of the MBP's DVI port, and miniToslink (optical) audio out of the 3.5mm stereo mini jack to the converter, then it will combine the two and output audio and video through HDMI to the monitor.
http://www.supermediastore.com/product/u/apogee-dvi-to-hdmi-converter-spdif-opti cal-toslink-coaxial-input-output?utm_source=cj&utm_medium=aff&utm_content=HDMI+A ccessories
Otherwise, depending on the TV's inputs, for video you could run DVI to DVI on the TV, or DVI to HDMI to the TV. For audio you could run 3.5mm stereo mini plug from the MBP to RCA adapter on the TV. Toslink/optical is also an option.

Is a MacBook Pro w/ Retina display worth the price?

Apple community-
    Looking at purchasing portability for school- going to work on an MFA in graphics/web/new media, and need some assistance. I've an iMac from 2007, seems to run flawlessly, but looking at options for taking school with me while at work- I'm currently travelling five different states in my current position. The new MacBook Pro with Retina display looks stunning, albeit expensive, but has many features that worry me.
    For instance, everything is completely bolted/soldered/non-upgradeable, so any desire of modification needs to be purchased pre-production, right? Also, the big issue with their PCIe "Flash based" storage... exactly what is this, and why is it so freaking expensive? I've read different reports on Apple using various manufacturers, so not every MacBook as the same storage model, no third party attempts at upgrades, etc.. If I'd like to install numerous, monstrous programs, such as the entire Adobe Creative Suites, 3D Max, Maya, Final Cut, and so forth, I'll need a high capacity memory drive, as I assume most, if not all of these, need a root drive to install, and not simply an external hard drive. I still make CDs/DVDs, so a SuperDrive is another $80.
    Chatting with an Apple representative, she stated that there is "only one model that will run my software at peak performance," which was the 15-inch model, starting at $2k; also, my software needed a "dedicated graphics card," I'm not too certain that it needs all that, and a high-end PC laptop could certainly run all of my demands- but let's face it, this is an Apple discussions community, and I'm plain simply accustomed to working on an Apple computer. Plus, I don't really care for Windows 8.
    Should I possibly aim to purchase an older model used, something without Retina, but with more storage? Is Retina that big of a deal for a laptop? I also considered the possibility of just toting a Mac Mini with a 13-inch Cintiq tablet; though it does need a constant power supply, it's still quite portable.
    Thoughts? Am I just overthinking this? I've been expecting a MacBook to be expensive, but this could be pushing it a bit.
Cheers!

guiparent,
whether it’s worth the price or not is an entirely subjective opinion. My own choice was to buy a used non-Retina 13-inch Mid 2010 MacBook Pro, and replace its hard drive with a SSD; but since I don’t use graphic-intensive apps such as the Adobe Creative Suite, my own choice would most likely not be best for you. Given your graphic design background, if you find the non-Retina displays sufficient for your needs, I’d recommend that you consider a used 15-inch Mid 2012 MacBook Pro. That model has memory sockets, so you can replace/upgrade the RAM if needed; its internal disk can be replaced by/upgraded with any 2.5-inch 9.5-mm-high SATA hard disk or SSD; and it has a built-in SuperDrive.

Keeping Macbook Pro Awake While Display Closed?

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